cabernet-sauvignon
2018 Roghani Vineyards – Stop the Presses!!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Roghani Vineyards entered the 7th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition this year for the first time. Roghani Vineyards is in Caldwell, Idaho. In speaking with Denise Kulm, she mentioned that they make an exquisite Cabernet Sauvignon, if I would be interested in reviewing it. Agreeing to do so, I was more acknowledging their participation in the Cabernet Franc Competition as I had only tasted one other Idaho wine which was good but not something to shout about from the mountain tops. That has now all changed!!
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
One of the first items in understanding why this wine is so unbelievably great is to comprehend the soil conditions of Snake River Valley, Idaho. The Snake River Plain was formed from lava flows of Basalt and silica rich Rhyolite twice during a 17-million-year span! The fertile soil of the valley contributes in unique ways to the vineyards’ production.
First on the eyes, this wine is full bodied with cavernous deep dark red coloring in the glass. Upon removing the cork, the aroma was nothing ordinary with richness and dark fruits wafting into the senses. Immediately, the wine received my attention with admiration. On the palate, blackberries, plum and black cherries frolicked happily in the mouth and only being checked by earthy mineral notes. A modicum of new leather and soft vanilla pipe tobacco was also noted. The tannins were notched, noticeable upon each sip, but shortly and quietly rested, being velvety and delicious. The finish was long and enjoyable, dry and with balanced acidity.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Personally, as a judge in a blind competition, this wine is the closest I have ever tasted that could pass as a premier Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon! That simply stated is how solid this wine is. The wine came in at 15.1% alcohol. The price for this wine at Roghani’s Restaurant (inside Chateau des Fleurs) is $64/bottle. It is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The restaurant is about two miles east of Homedale in Canyon County.
Koenig Winery makes their wines and for this vintage only 213 cases were produced. The wine was aged 30 months in 70% new French oak barrels. This wine won Double Gold Medal and Best Cabernet Sauvignon at the Idaho Wine Competition.
Not only will this make my list for Best Wines Tasted in 2026 (less than 3% of 1800 wines tasted), and it also received my highest rating score.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
With a quick break in the weather, the BBQ was heated on infra-red burners to 1500° to sear seasoned filet mignon steaks. A beautiful finish on the outside and medium-rare on the inside. Served with Blue cheese crumbles on top. Accompanied by fresh asparagus and sauteed gnocchi in butter and olive oil. A fresh garden salad was served with Blue cheese dressing and crumbles. A delicious meal to complement this outstanding wine. Truly a wonderful food and wine pairing with the flavor profile and tannins being great companions with the meal.
The Winery / Restaurant
Photo from Roghani’s website
One of the unique challenges of acquiring this wine is that it is only sold at Roghani’s Restaurant and at Chateau des Fleurs in Eagle, Idaho. The restaurant offers fine dining with a fusion of European cuisine (French, Italian, Greek) and Persian flavors. The restaurant is also known for their farm to table foods using their own gardens.
Graph from https://pubs.usgs.gov/
The vineyard was acquired in 2005 and produces besides the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Riesling, a late harvest Riesling, Shiraz/Syrah blend, Chardonnay, Merlot and a few others. The operation is tied to the Roghani family’s Camille Beckman company.
By the way, their Cabernet Franc won Gold Medals at the 7th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition from both the Professional Judges and the People’s Choice Judges.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
Christmas Cheer Dinner Party and a Few Selected Wines!
photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Held our annual Christmas party with neighborhood friends joining. We provided appetizers and main dish with each couple bringing a wide range and assortment of delicious foods. Each couple also brought a bottle of wine, and I had pulled a few in advance to enjoy.
Château de Bligny Grand Reserve Brut Champagne
photo ©Michael Kelly
Château de Bligny is a historic estate in the Aube region of Champagne, France, famous as the only grower-producer château in the Champagne appellation, producing its own unique Champagnes from its vineyards. Established in the 15th century with later additions, it boasts a rich winemaking heritage, including still wines and sparkling varieties (Blanc de Blancs, Rosé) from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, known for their freshness, fruitiness, and minerality. In a recent lecture on Champagne, the speaker mentioned it is much more difficult to produce a non-vintage Champagne as opposed to a vintage one. This Brut Grand Reserve has been our go to Champagne for years now! The price is very reasonably set at around $40-48/bottle. This wine routinely makes my annual list of Best Wines Tasted in the year for the under $50/bottle category. Here is a link to previous story on the wine: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2020/04/25/chateau-de-bligny-grand-reserve-brut-champagne/
2009 Viader (Proprietary Blend)
photo ©Michael Kelly
Made from 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Cabernet Franc (my idea of a solid blend), it makes the apex of a Napa Valley Bordeaux. Smooth, dry and complex in tannins, and as stated in their notes “balancing acidity and an incredible array of flavors, including blackberry, black currant, cherry, chocolate, dried herb, smoky oak and spice amounting to an important and hard to define quality of sophistication.
The current vintage is the 2021 with ratings ranging from 95 to 98 points. It is 71% Cabernet Sauvignon and 29% Cabernet Franc and goes for $195/bottle at the winery. Any year I open a bottle of this wine, it makes my list of Best Wines Tasted in the over $51/bottle. Here is link to a previous story written on Viader: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2018/09/24/viader-vineyards-winery-walk-in-my-steps-but-leave-your-own-footprint/
2008 O’Shaughnessy Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon
photo ©Michael Kelly
Having had a bottle of this wine in November of 2025, I decided to bring another bottle out this evening. First on the eyes striking combination of inky purple and dark crimson coloring. Viscosity was medium-heavy. Once the cork was popped it took a while for the flavors to “open up” and express their pedigree after so many years of hibernation. Once opened, fresh blackberries and smooth blueberries filled the olfactory senses. On the palate, the dark fruits combined to make a robust compote of pure fruit. Full bodied possessing strong enjoyable tannins without any pointiness. The finish concluded being opulent and richly rewarding.
Parker also mentioned it will age 25+ years! Rated 98 points by Robert Parker and has been aging in the cellar for 14 years! Searching on the internet average price today appears to be $149/bottle. Today’s current vintage at the winery is their 2021 and is allocated at $160/bottle. This wine will make my annual Best Wines Tasted Listing for 2025 (list comes out December for each year).
Here is link to the O’Shaughnessy story recently written: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2025/11/24/2008-oshaughnessy-estate-winery-mount-veeder-cabernet-sauvignon-a-special-wine/
Notice the corks on both the Viader and O’Shaughnessy wines! They are pristine and sealed snuggly and sealed for years, due to being stored correctly. BTW, those two wines were open seven hours before the meal, filtered twice and decanted twice before serving.
photo ©Michael Kelly
We enjoy many other wines this evening from locations beyond France and Napa Valley such as Livermore Valley, Lodi, Paso Robles and Calaveras County.
Sláinte and Merry Christmas,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://champagnechateaudebligny.com/en/homepage
https://oshaughnessywinery.com/
https://woodfamilyvineyards.com
https://www.younginglewood.com
2022 Selvagrossa “Poveriano” Cabernet Franc from Italy
Background
Met the owner and distributor for Vinity Wine Company in Emeryville, California at CabFranc-a-Palooza in June, 2025. They were pouring a couple of Cabernet Franc wines from Italy. I have been intrigued by Cabernet Franc wines from Italy for the last few years since Daryl Corti won the Best of Show for his wine from Italy from both the Professional & People’s Choice Judges in 2023 at the International Cabernet Franc Competition.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine comes from the Marche region in Central Italy (in red on the map below), located on the Adriatic coast. The vineyards are located 12 km east of the coast in the hills of Pesaro at an elevation of 325 feet. The wine spent 14 months in French barriques being 50% new and 50% neutral. Additionally the wine spent six months in bottle before being released. The alcohol level was 13.5%.
The wine on the eyes was cavernously deep red with medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose, lush red and black fruits rose to greet the imbiber. Present were a modicum of pyrazines (green bell pepper) and spices. On the palate, a rustic old world Cabernet Franc was immediately noticeable with dark cherry flavors, earthy minerality and complex structure. The finish was surprisingly smooth with silky soft tannins and very well balanced.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Went to the Wine Steward in Pleasanton, California and spoke with Jim Denham looking for a recommendation for dinner with either a Nero d’ Avola or Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo. He alternatively suggested this wine for a chicken cacciatore meal this evening at a good friend’s home in Livermore, California. Cacciatore is a rustic Italian dish that has braised chicken in a flavorful tomato sauce with vegetable and herbs. Accompanied by a fresh salad. This wine provided fruit flavors surrounding each morsel consumed this evening! Very nice food and wine pairing.
The dessert was a homemade crust and strawberry pie that was spectacular.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
And if this wasn’t decadent enough, freshly whipped cream crowned this delicious slice!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The only thing better than this gorgeous wine and delicious food was catching up with good friends with conversations both lighthearted and heart-felt. Thanks, Gomes, for a wonderful evening!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2015 Crocker & Starr Casali 8 – A Marriage of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
A question was poised on a wine chat room, if you could only drink one wine the rest of your life, what would you choose? While not answering the question, as I believe variety is the spice of life, last evening drinking this 2015, it was extremely close to being the answer. I met Pam almost twenty years ago and liked every one of her wines. I have also seen the winery grow exponentially in size, without wavering from their exquisite quality and warm hospitality. Not an easy feat in today’s environment!
The Winery
Photo from 2 years ago ©Michael Kelly
Pam Starr is simply a Rock Star. I believe she is one of the elite top 10 winemakers in Napa, but she is also much more than this. Knowing Pam Starr and following her exquisite wines for years, just about all would agree! Her technical pedigree comes from UC Davis in Fermentation Science. She started as an intern at Sonoma Cutrer, Edna Valley Vineyard, then six years at Carmenet Winery and then winemaker for Spottswoode Vineyard. In 1997 she and Charlie Crocker established Crocker & Starr.
Photo from Crocker & Starr website
Charlie Crocker comes from one of California’s oldest families, with his grandfather who was involved in the Central Pacific railroad in the mid 1800’s. His family heritage was a force in California’s development. Charlie also was involved in high tech and ran several companies very successfully. He has always had a keen interest in wine. Charlie in 1971 purchased the Dowdell property in St Helena. Today 85 of the 100 acres are planted in the classical Bordeaux grapes. On their website a detailed chronology is provided and makes a very good read.
The blending of these two personalities as a partnership is as smooth as their wine — seamless and magnificent.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
What I enjoy most in getting to know Pam, is her genuineness and friendliness. You can stop by and see her in the vineyards, driving a forklift, punching down tubs of grapes, just about anything and everything. She is immersed in the business of “perfection”. Yet she has time, to sit down and talk, provide a bowl of water for your dogs, and even converse about mundane “non-wine issues”. She is above all else, extremely real and kind. Why wouldn’t you like her wine?
Her enthusiasm spills over into her craft of winemaking skills. I am speaking as a customer and wine club member from this perspective. Since meeting Pam, some twenty years ago, her wines started out at a 10 (scale of 1-10) and have remained at this quality the entire time! No easy feat with droughts, fire and wild temperature swings.
Let’s talk about the wines she produces. First, and why I sought Crocker & Starr initially years ago, was her Cabernet Franc. Each year they produce one of the most consistently solid and best Cabernet Franc’s in the Valley. The wine always shows a deep purple, with concentrates of black raspberries and tobacco. As some Cab Francs can be “strong”, Crocker & Starr‘s are strong in texture, but surprisingly soft and velvety to drink. They have enough balance of structure, tannin and acid to last 10-15 years without fail.
Today they produce a few Cabernet Sauvignon (RLC, Stone Place, One Post), Cabernet Franc and Casali (blend of Cabernet Franc & Malbec). Also, their white Sauvignon Blanc is superb. One newer addition is Brut Rose. All her red wines and white wines have consistently made my annual list of “Best Wines Tasted” during the year for the last 15 years! See the links to these reviews:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2019/12/28/2011-crocker-starr-stone-place-cabernet-sauvignon/
One of their taglines is “Touch the Vines, Taste the Wines”. When visiting the winery, immersion into the vineyard is a prerequisite. In 2021 Cyrus Hazzard joined the Crocker & Starr team as a Partner & President to continue their esteemed tradition.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Casali designated wine is a mix of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon with the percentages changing year by year. 2015 Casali 8 is 55% Malbec and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is Pam’s ode to a Bordeaux blend and comes in at 14.4% alcohol.
First on the eyes a dark inky coloring with a magenta and purple rim. When popping the cork, the fragrances of black plum waft into the senses beckoning one to take a sip. Once on the palate, black cherries and blueberries swirl about in merriment. Secondary flavors of sweet pipe tobacco along with blackberries complete the tasting. The finish, dark chocolate counterbalanced by vanilla and surrounded by silky and embracing tannins leaves one almost speechless. Like a piece of art, you are mesmerized and totally elated with the momentary and existential experience.
Their current release is 2022 will be available to Casali members for $110/bottle (Casali 15) in spring of 2025. The 2015 will definitely make my “Best Wines Tasted This Year” again (comes out each December) in 2025!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dinner with this wine was a special Carne Asada. The flank steak was put through a tenderizing machine at the meat market. It was marinated 24 hours with the following ingredients: olive oil, soy sauce, fresh squeezed orange and lime juice, fresh chopped cilantro leaves, pickled Jalapeño peppers, minced garlic cloves, ground cumin, Kosher salt, ground black pepper. The steak was seared on the BBQ with an infrared ceramic burner at 1500 degrees for about 3-4 minutes a side and then BBQ’ed. Served with minced cilantro, fresh extra marinade sauce and a modicum of fresh squeezed lime juice. Accompanying the meal were roasted quartered Mexican potatoes consisting of baby yellow halved potatoes, olive oil, salt, smoked paprika, cumin, chili powder, black pepper, granulated garlic, onion powder, oregano and fresh finely grated Parmesan Reggiano. A fresh Southwest Garden salad comprised of iceberg and green leaf lettuce, chili lime seasoned white chicken meat, tortilla strips, four cheese blend, roasted yellow corn and salsa ranch dressing. The Carne Asada was flavorful and spicy. This is now one of our “go to” BBQ food pairings!
This Malbec blend with its fruit surrounded the spicy meat and cooled it off to be absolutely a wonderful pairing with the Cabernet Sauvignon component matched beautifully with the meat protein.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
Not All Meals Are Gourmet – But All Deserve A Good Wine!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I generally write about wines that can be purchased commercially, whether at a winery or wine shop. This wine we were given by a friend, Steve Alaimo in Paso Robles a week ago while staying at “The Guest House”. He is the proprietor of the Via Paloma “The Guest House” that we frequent when in Paso Robles. He provides a bottle of either his Zinfandel or Cabernet Sauvignon in the room when staying there. It is not a commercial wine, but one that is from his small vineyard on his property. He is an amateur winemaker and has been making wine since 1991 in the Los Angeles area as an enthusiastic hobby. When he moved to Paso Robles in 2009, he sought advice from various wine consultants on how to improve his winemaking skills. He subsequently joined a home winemaking group in Paso Robles called “Wines & Steins” a social and educational club.
The previous year he provided us with two different bottles of his 2018 with one being very good. Steve the winemaker, calls his wine Via Paloma, with Paloma translating to “dove”.
This year Steve provided us with a 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon and last evening the weather was nice before the next atmospheric river forecasted for the next nine days, so at the last minute decided to BBQ hamburgers. Grabbed the wine out of the cellar and it was significantly better and a step up from his previous vintages. When I called and asked what had changed besides the “terroir” his explanation was basically a new American oak barrel was used in fermentation. He normally makes one barrel of Zinfandel and one barrel of Cabernet Sauvignon. If I were rating this wine it would be 90 or 91 points.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine had a nice deep red coloring on the eyes and medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose a tad reserved but still dark fruit was evident. On the palate a mixture of blackberry and plum were the dominant flavors. Secondary flavors of vanilla pipe tobacco sprang forth. On the finish it was bold and structured with velvety tannins. Steve’s crafting of his Cabernet Sauvignon took a significant leap in quality from my perspective. Nice going Steve!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Had the wine with a BBQ’ed burger and steak fries. It was a wonderful match “on the fly” and very complimentary to each other. I don’t know what I enjoyed more, his wine or conversations with him when visiting or over the phone.
It is a great bonus staying at his guest house with his wine and would recommend “The Guest House” on a Paso Robles visit.
Slainte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
s_alaimo@yahoo.com “The Guest House”
2022 Austin Hope “Cellar Select” Cabernet Franc – A Special Treat!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
This year’s #CabFrancMasters in Paso Robles at a dinner gathering I was seated next to Stasi Seay, Director of Vineyards at Hope Family Wines. While having had some exposure to Hope Family Wines, when the Austin Hope Cellar Select Cabernet Franc was served, I was startled by it opulence and richness. Having just completed the 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition with one hundred Cabernet Franc wines participating and Austin Hope’s Quest wine being entered in the less than $40 category for California Cab Franc wines. It received Silver Medal’s from both the Professional and People’s Choice Judges. Hosting the event I never had an opportunity to taste it. Stasi mentioned that Austin Hope, owner and winemaker, had been working on this additional label (Quest) for five years before releasing it. That alone was a startling statement. I had previously tried many of their Cabernet Sauvignon wines but had very little knowledge of the scope and breath of their operation. When the Austin Hope Cellar Select Cabernet Franc was served with a chocolate molten cake with beet and vanilla anglaise then I understood that this wine was on a different level than most Cabernet Franc wines. As I previously wrote it was one of the richest and “almost chewable” wines of the evening which paired so well with the food. It was between Austin Hope and one other Cabernet Franc wine for the best of the evening, which is saying a lot as all were outstanding. Mentioning we were having a dinner party and would like to buy a bottle to share with our guests the following Friday, she was kind enough to secure a bottle and ship it to us.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled it out of the cellar three hours in advance of dinner to allow it to breathe and “warm up” for the dinner. When popping the cork, a floral boutique of aromas rushed into the olfactory senses. Later in the glass this dark and enticing color with a heavy viscosity had a brooding and mysterious allure. Upon the first sip, it was as I remembered from the #CabFrancMasters dinner, a deep and sensuous flavor of dark fruits of plum and blackberry swirled about in the mouth. This was no ordinary Cabernet Franc. Secondary flavors of dark chocolate counter balanced by a dry earthiness provided an all-encompassing experience. On the finish, layers of enjoyment and strong tannins both with some angularity and yet velvety, along with dark cherry completed the experience.
As I researched this magnificent bold and dry wine, I found out it was rated the #2 California Cabernet Franc wine today by Vivino. It sells for approximately $90/bottle, and it is an ageable wine that will only improve further! It will make my annual list of Best Wines tasted during the calendar year for 2025.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Prepared one of our favorite dishes last evening, Mediterranean beef kebabs. The recipe calls for sirloin beef but substituted filet mignon. Cut the filet mignon meat into 1 ½ inch squares and were marinated for almost two hours in the refrigerator. The ingredients for the marinade include fresh lemon juice, marjoram, oregano, parsley, paprika, black pepper, Himalayan Sea salt, olive oil and fresh minced garlic.
Pieces of the filet mignon and vegetables were cut up to fit in the kabab grilling baskets preferred for grilling to capture all the ingredients rather than skewers. Besides the beef, two different colored bell peppers slices (yellow and orange), and purple onion slices were loaded into the baskets. Plus, fresh Rosemary. Placed on the BBQ between medium to medium-high for about 10-12 minutes rotating the baskets 90 degrees every 3 minutes. Emptied from the basket and served.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The meal was accompanied by Greek roasted potatoes in chicken broth, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic powder and fresh oregano
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Additionally, a fresh garden salad with onion, tomato and Kalamata olives. Served with a Greek dressing.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Also sautéed asparagus with minced garlic, shallots, topped with roasted peppers and feta cheese.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dessert for those who could possibly eat anything more were both fresh blackberries and raspberries and Milano Double Dark chocolate cookie wafers.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This meal was extremely tasty, spicy and provided a real Mediterranean experience. It was like Spain, France, Italy and Greece combined to throw a party! Combined with the exquisite wine, one of the better food and wine pairings enjoyed last evening.
The Winery
Photo Hope Family Wines website
I have yet to visit the winery but have had the opportunity to speak with many of the folks from the winery such as Austin Hope Owner/winemaker, Stasi Seay Director of Vineyards, CJ Gormley Tasting Room and many others during this years and previous #CabFrancMasters in Paso Robles. What I did not know or understand was the enormity of the breath of wine offered by the Hope Family Wines! Austin Hope who I had a conversation with at last year at #CabFrancMasters has a quote that took on new meaning after tasting this wine stating, “the goal is simple: to make wines that express everything Paso Robles has to offer, with its pastoral beauty, perfect soils, maritime climate and limitless possibility.”
Photo Hope Family Wines website
Trying to sum up the Hope Family Wine offering is like taking a tour of a large luxury cruise ship. Behind each doorway and deck is waiting a new experience. So, this description is only the beginning of several on the winery. First off, the Hope Family Wines has six labels which are Austin Hope, Treana, Quest, Liberty School, Troublemaker and Austin. The wine offering is mind boggling with Graciano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Chenin Blanc, a dry Rosé, Syrah, GSM, Grenache, Verdelho, Pinot Noir, Mourvèdre, various Rhône blends, etc. Way too many wines to mention and an astonishing assortment of wines to be explored. They source from over 50 growers from Monterey to Santa Barbara. All 42 acres of their estate are SIP Certified for Sustainable practices. It is estimated that Hope Family Wines produces around 400,000 cases of wine per year.
I am already contemplating my next visit to Paso Robles and will most likely need 2 or 3 days alone to comprehend the expanse of Hope Family Wines. Truly an amazing line up of wine!
Special thanks to Stasi Seay for providing the background and scope of Hope Family Wines over dinner.
Sláinte,
Michael
Cabernet Franc Masters 2025: Wine Tasting Seminar on the World of Franc!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I attended one of my favorite events of the year called Cabernet Franc Masters in Paso Robles (#CabFrancMasters) on March 16th. This is the third year that Kunal & Neeta Mittal have spearheaded this outstanding conference. It was held at the Cass Event Center starting at 10 am starting off with a Wine Tasting Seminar: World of Cabernet Franc led by Wes Hagen.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This focused on global expressions of Cabernet Franc wines from around the world both seminar and tasting.
The overview of the session started out with Wes tracing the origins & history of Cabernet Franc, viticulture, geography where Cab Franc is produced, the wine profile characteristics and concluding with tasting Cabernet Franc wines from around the world.
A lot of details and ad hoc comments by the “professor Wes Hagen” on so many subjects regarding this exquisite grape varietal. I believe three are relatively important in comprehending this grape varietal by Wes.
The first is how Cabernet Franc genealogy can be traced via DNA studies. Below this chart shows just how prolific this grape is and its “off springs”.
Slide ©Wes Hagen
The second important factor is the versality and resilience of Cabernet Franc to adapt to various climates around the world. Very few grapes can withstand these temperature, wind and humidity variables.
Slide ©Wes Hagen
The third is a comparison between Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in their key characteristics and differences.
Slide ©Wes Hagen
Once the above factors and others were discussed it was time to make the session empirical with wine tasting. Five wines were featured running the gauntlet of pricing from $25 to $90. The wines in order were the following:
Photo ©Michael Kelly
#1 – 2022 Domaine Brunet Cabernet Franc from Chinon, Loire Valley, France
#2 – 2021 Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore Cabernet Franc from Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
#3 – 2022 Lieu Dit Cabernet Franc from Santa Ynez Valley, California
#4 – 2019 Chateau Haut Ferrand Cabernet Franc from Pomerol, Bordeaux, France
#5 – 2019 Zaha Cabernet Franc from Paraje Altamira, Mendoza, Argentina
Each wine was dissected in understanding its “terroir”, age-worthy status, key characteristics, it’s place in the market and based on location the ability to adapt to climate change. A lot of key and important facts on each wine were discussed. At the conclusion of the tasting a show of hands as to the preferred style by the attendees. While all the wines received votes the out right winner was the 2022 Lieu Dit Cabernet Franc from Santa Ynez Valley, California which goes for around $40 to $45.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The concluding comments about Cabernet Franc were enlightening and timely. They were summed up in this slide:
Slide ©Wes Hagen
This was the third time I have had the privilege of listening to Wes and he covers this broad subject in detail, with humor and amazing side stories from his experience. He truly is a “professor” and provides a quick pace opportunity to learn about this varietal.
Slainte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
#CabFrancMasters
2022 J. Lohr Vineyards and Wines Cabernet Franc – Don’t Judge a Book By It’s Cover!
Background
Never were truer words stated by George Eliot in the 1860 novel “The Mill on the Floss”. So it can be said of judging wines often seen in grocery stores by the company they keep! Admittedly I had relegated J. Lohr wines as “grocery store” wines. That was without a doubt a total misgiving and corrected by the knowledgeable VP of J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines Steve Peck a couple of years ago. I am forever grateful for “getting the straight story” about the winery.
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Here is an image of one of their “mass-produced” bottles that can be seen in grocery and liquor stores. Thinking that was the extent of the quality portfolio, I often walked by J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines offering in stores much to my embarrassment.
They do have eight 145,000-gallon tanks on their property called Bottle Ready Tank Farm (BRTF) which is the equivalent of 60,000 cases in each tank! While they produce roughly 1.5 million cases (number from over 1 year ago) they do produce an array of other smaller lots of wines.
Having picked up a bottle of the 2022 J. Lohr Vineyards and Wines Cabernet Franc drove home Steve Peck’s point that while J. Lohr has many good quality mass-produced wines, they also have many artisan and hand crafted wines. This is just one of many. Others include the 2019 POM Cuvee which was a blend of 74% Merlot, 18% Malbec, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Cabernet Franc. The POM comes from the Grand Cru wines of Pomerol in Bordeaux on the Right Bank. Beautiful cherry and blueberries were dominant on the taste buds along with a soft finish.
The second wine is the 2019 J.Lohr St.E! It is now one of my favorites consisting of 66% Cabernet Franc, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Merlot. The inspiration behind the St E label is for St. Emilion on the Right Bank. Black fruit with velvety tannins provided a long-lasting finish and stated to age up to 13 years.
Another was for 2020 J.Lohr PAU with inspiration from the Grand Cru wines of Pauillac district in Bordeaux. Mainly composed of Cabernet Sauvignon with small portions of other Bordeaux varietal wines to provide structure and layering, resulting in texture and complexity.
Two other noteworthy wines are the 2021 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon that was rated 95 points and comes from their vineyard in Napa Valley. It spent 18 months in 54% new French oak barrels. It is listed to age for 12 years. A donation is made by J. Lohr Winery of $3 for every bottle sold to the National Breast Cancer Foundation program.
The last wine I will mention to give a fuller understanding of their exquisite line up is really about is their 2015 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon that was aged 20 months in 100% new French oak barrels. This is considered Jerry Lohr’s embodiment reflecting his decades providing his best wine to be enjoyed. It has received 98 points and is comprised of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Malbec.
There are many more……
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Opened this up the evening on the eve of the 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition. It had been sitting in the cellar for over one year. I was pleased, startled and in awe of this wonderful wine. On the eyes, a dark and brooding brick and purple coloring. On the nose, fragrant aromas of dark berries and violets sprung forth like a young teenager heading to the Prom. On the palate layers upon layers of pure enjoyment and inspiration. Flavors of black cherries, blackberries, caressing oak, soft leather and smoky oak nuances. On the finish, strong and pronounced tannins, more reminiscent of Cabernet Sauvignon, but all so welcomed. Finishing with minerality, a touch of Pyrazines (bell pepper) and a long finish.
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
It is listed at $60/bottle and was aged 16 months in French oak barrels. It comes in at 15.2% alcohol with only 367 cases produced. This Home Ranch Cabernet Franc not only made my annual Best Wines Tasted for 2025, but also is now on my personal best Cabernet Franc wines ever tasted!
History
Fifty years ago Jerry Lohr with little viticulture background ventured to California and found two areas that he thought could produce good wines: Monterey coast and Paso Robles. Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco had the cool windy climate and rocky soils necessary to produce excellent Chardonnay. Ten years later in the 1980’s, he also realized Paso Robles was well suited for producing Bordeaux varietals with rich soils and large diurnal temperature swings between the warm summer days and the cooling breezes from the nearby Pacific Ocean.
Fast forward, the growth of vineyards and planting was steadfastly adhered to with incremental acquisitions of property. Today over 1,400 acres are planted in Arroyo Seco and Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey County with a focus on Chardonnay, Riesling, Valdiguié, and Pinot Noir. Now add the 2,700 acres of vineyards in Paso Robles planted and producing Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux and Rhone varietals. J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines winery also owns 30 acres in Napa Valley producing Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Jerry’s vision has become a reality, producing many solid and award-winning wines with it now still being run as a family business.
One of many distinctions separating J. Lohr winery is their conscientious “farming for the future”. 2023 marks thirteen years since and continuously, J. Lohr became the first vineyard and winery in California to earn the Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing from California Sustainable winegrowing Alliance (CSWA). Detailed information can be found on their website.
Sláinte,
Michael
2018 Palazzo Cabernet Franc – An Elegant Wine
Background
Scott Palazzo has entered the International Cabernet Franc Competition for several years. Over the years he has won consistently Gold and Double Gold for his Cabernet Franc. Enjoyed last evening his 2018 and it was a treat to taste this exquisite wine.
The Winery
Picture from Palazzo website
Scott Palazzo’s background is both unique and fascinating how he ended up being a winemaker. Scott grew up in an Italian family which influenced both his understanding of wine as an everyday event as well as with food and celebrations. At age 19, Scott set out with his guitar on his back and ended up in Europe. There he ended up in Saint Émilion (on the Right Bank of Bordeaux’s Gironde River). This became his wine paramount experience shaping his palate for years to come and the foundation for Palazzo Wine some 20+ years later. In 2003, after establishing a career as a television director/producer (nominated Grammy for Music Video & Television Director/Producer), he began searching for a similar terroir that he enjoyed while living in Saint Émilion.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Key to his success was his charismatic and energetic personality! Scott combined his experience with Old World wine in the cellar with New World fruit from lower Napa Valley rolling hills. Today his wines are featured by some of the world’s most famous wine restaurants. A small partial listing is French Laundry, Gary Danko, Michael Mina, Per, Daniel, Gramercy Tavern, Eleven Madison Park, Spago, Bouchon, Mastro’s Steakhouse, Emeril’s, Valintino’s, etc. The full list of restaurants can be found on his website, suffice to say, in any major city, find a prestigious restaurant and you will find Palazzo Wine!
Today Scott’s portfolio of wines includes his Master Blend Series (Left Bank Cuvee, Chardonnay, Rosé) and Reserve Wine Series (Cuvee Blanc, Right Bank Blend, Cabernet Franc).
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Scott started making his Cabernet Franc exclusively for The French Laundry in Yountville. This catapulted his wine instantly to “cult status”. This story is on his 2018 vintage of Cabernet Franc. On the eyes, this is a very deep crimson red color with medium-heavy viscosity. What wafts into the nose is a symphony of aromas from floral notes of crushed violets to red fruits like cherries and raspberries. Once entering the mouth all parts of the orchestrated flavors burst into a flavor profile like the 1812 Overture. Red and black cherries, subtle spices like pepper are counterbalanced with hints of dark chocolate. On the finish only a hint of pyrazines (herbal notes), this wine is vibrant, yet silky smooth beckoning one to take another sip. Structured and defined layers with silky smooth tannins and still some with defined edges are present. One of the smoothest finishes on a world class Cabernet Franc I have tasted. This wine is 14.1% alcohol and 2018 was rated 94 points by Jeb Dunnuck. The current release is 2019 and won Gold at Sommeliers Choice Awards. It is priced around $119 and rated 96 points by Wine Advocate.
Sláinte,
Michael
2013 Hoopes Cabernet Sauvignon – “lips drink water, hearts drink wine”- e.e. cummings
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Unwrapped the bottle as it was time to indulge in a treat. This is beyond your classic Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon! One of the best wines tasted in a while. First on the eyes, an inky purple and dark wine in the glass having a heavy viscosity that oozes richness. On the nose a bouquet of violets, cloves and blackberries greet the imbiber. On the palate the descriptors are numerous with espresso, plum, dark chocolate, soft leather, earthiness and raspberries. A wide-reaching broad flavor profile. Secondary flavors of black cherries and a hint of soft vanilla pipe tobacco enliven the sipping experience. On the finish finely sculptured tannins, velvety and yet present, along with dark chocolate complete the experience.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
While waiting some 12 years in the bottle, the reward was breathtaking and worth the wait. This wine made my annual Best Wines Tasted for 2025 with an exclamation! Note the excellent condition of the cork.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Prepared one of our favorite dishes last evening, Mediterranean beef kebabs. The recipe called for sirloin beef, but substituted filet mignon. Cut the filet mignon meat and were marinated for almost two hours in the refrigerator. The ingredients for the marinade include fresh lemon juice, marjoram, oregano, parsley, paprika, black pepper, Himalayan Sea salt, olive oil and fresh minced garlic.
Pieces of the filet mignon and vegetables were cut up to fit in the kabab grilling baskets preferred for grilling to capture all the ingredients rather than skewers. Besides the beef, two different colored bell peppers slices (yellow and orange ), and purple onion slices were loaded into the baskets. Placed on the BBQ between medium to medium-high for about 10-12 minutes rotating the baskets 90 degrees every 3 minutes. Emptied from the basket and served.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The meal was accompanied by roasted quarter potatoes in oil, garlic salt and pepper. Additionally, a fresh garden salad and old fashion Italian dressing was served made the salad delicious. The salad was comprised of Iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, green onions and along with sliced black olives and sliced candied almonds.
This meal was extremely tasty, spicy and provided a real Mediterranean experience. It was like Spain, France, Italy and Greece combined to throw a party! Combined with the exquisite wine, one of the best food and wine pairing enjoyed last evening.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Their statement from e.e. cummings is a classic for this winery. Their other tag line is “in dogged pursuit of perfect wines”. Lindsay Hoopes is the second-generation owner of the vineyard. Her father Spencer founded the vineyard and worked at the small twelve-acre parcel in Oakville producing award winning wines for many years. Lindsay returned in 2012 needing to help with an illness in the family. Taking full charge, she made some unique changes including hooking up with famed vintners Anne Vawter and Jennifer Rue to produce new and bold Cabernets. Lindsay took up the challenge to develop bio-diverse farming practice initiatives for sustainability certification. Lindsay undertook the adventure to find new and unique vineyards throughout Napa Valley to augment their estate offering. She also founded a rescue sanctuary for animals. The quote in the title is one of Lindsay’s favorites. This wine was produced by Anne Vawter who learned her craft under Heidi Peterson Barrett at Paradigm. In 2020 the noted and heralded winemaker Aaron Pott joined Hoopes as the winemaker with his impressive and extensive resume from Napa Valley and beyond.
One of the more enjoyable aspects of the winery was where I did my first tasting in 2019, which was their home. Sipping and discussing various wines at the dining room table while looking out into the vineyard adds a “real touch” of genuineness to the experience without pretense.
Today they produce Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc (Atlas Peak), Chardonnay (Carneros), Syrah (Oak Knoll), Merlot (Howell Mountain) and various levels of distinct Cabernet Sauvignon’s (from $125 to $225/bottle).
Sláinte,
Michael