Enjoyed Guests Saturday Evening With Foods and Some Exquisite Wines – Napa Valley, Livermore Valley, New Zealand, Sonoma and Germany
Photo ©Michael Kelly
With temperatures hitting 113 degrees in the afternoon, three refreshing white wines were opened and one Rosé to match some of the first rounds of foods. The three white wines chosen were a 2023 Oyster Bay (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc, 2024 Dr. Heideidmanns-Bergweiler Riesling (Germany) and a surprisingly solid Kirkland Sonoma County Chardonnay.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
The Rosé was a 2023 Wood Family Vineyards “The Pearl” Rosé. These were the best wine pairing with the first round of foods being marina and puffy bread cheese with Marinara sauce, pot stickers with Gyoza sauce, garlic toast, corn chips with a mango, jalapeño sauce, deviled eggs and a few other delights.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Those wines once exhausted the gathering wanted to go with red wines. Managed to find a few nice red wines such as the 2010 Husic Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa, the 2011 Dunn Vineyards from Howell Mountain in Napa Valley and the paramount wine being the 2006 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.
Those wines went especially well with Castelvetrano olives, a charcuterie plater of cheeses and salami, a jalapeño dip, and a few other dishes. The dessert was a prepared small bowl of freshly cut peaches, Burrata cheese, fresh basil, prosciutto and drizzled with Balsamic glaze. Picture below was from a previous dish I had prepared as I forgot to take a picture of it last evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Those wines only lasted just so long and back to the cellar to pick up a few more including a 2023 Cuda Ridge Wines Carmenere from Livermore Valley. As the evening slowed down the group went with one more white wine: 2024 Wood Family Vineyards Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). More nibbles came out of crackers and assorted treats but again no pictures.
It was great to see friends we hadn’t seen for over a year. Lots of laughs and comradery between all of us. Towards the end of the evening, our eldest daughter/son-in-law stopped by and we continued the conversations around a myriad of subjects. When they left and we cleaned up, we hopped into bed just after midnight. Not bad for the gathering that started at 4 pm!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwines.com
https://woodfamilyvineyards.com
https://www.cudaridgewines.com
https://www.husicvineyards.com/
https://robertmondaviwinery.com
https://www.oysterbaywines.com/us
Mea culpa Germany – Or as they say in German “meine Schuld”
Photo from Prüm winery
This week attended a most informative, provocative and engaging presentation on German Riesling. While I enjoy a nice dry Riesling especially with specific dishes, I have shied away from German wines since 1976. Yes, that is a long time but had an experience with a German wine salesman who came to our house loaded with beyond sweet wines that they offered for their wine club. We tasted some 6-8 wines and couldn’t stomach any of them. Since then, found a few American produced dry Riesling including Smith-Madrone Vineyards which I consider the best in California.
When this seminar and tasting arose from Vinum55, thought it was time to better understand German Riesling. While I have wines in the cellar from Chile, Argentina, Canada, Portugal, France, Spain, Italy, Croatia, and many states around the US, not a single German wine has appeared in the cellar. This is where my mind was reset this week.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The presentation was done by Ian Ribowsky GM of SA Prüm, who not only has a vast knowledge of wine, but a mesmerizing speaker, provided a tutorial on the history of German wine business and tasting. It is difficult to sum up the scope of this one-and-a-half-hour interaction with him. He first went through the history of the Prüm family name and their 800-year history. The winery and winemaking today are under Saskia Prüm who is an enology graduate of Geisenheim and the first woman in their 800-year history to lead the winery.
Photo from Prüm winery
Before getting into the wine, Ian delineated the geography of the Mosel River where their vineyards in various villages are located. First the area is at the 51st latitude extremely northern compared to USA vineyards, on extremely steep hillsides, some being 80% slope. The soils from the area have been tested and date back some 390 million years ago on Devonian slate. This soil provides continuing heat even through the evening. The vines are resistant to frost and mildew and the minerals in the soil provide heavenly aromatics and complexity.
Next Ian discussed the history of The VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingϋter) an association of Germany’s top wine producers with promote standards of quality and ecological management. This includes rigorous adherence to the protocols establishing low yields, strict rules on weights on harvest practices, selective hand harvesting, etc. All to secure the future of Germany’s historical wine presence in the global market. Of the 16,000 wineries only 202 are members. You must be invited to be a member of this exclusive quality assurance group of wineries.
The last background information discussed was the qualification and naming of wines from dry Riesling to a sweet to Riesling to “stickies” (very sweet). Also mentioned the age ability of Riesling wines from Germany, which was a revelation with some going up to 50 years!
All of this before the first sip commenced! Truly a fascinating and eye-opening educational experience.
We then began the wine tasting tour, which I’ve included and a couple of my notes on each:
2023 Raimund Prüm Solitar Dry Riesling – 11.5% alcohol, 6.9 g/l RS, flavors of orange/tangerine, great acidity – $25/bottle. (sorry no picture)
2022 Prüm Blue Trocken Dry Riesling VDP – Green apple -$30/bottle
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2020 SA Prüm Wehlen Sonnenuhr GG Dry Riesling – 5.4 g/l RS, will last up to 50 years, no toast on the German barrels, fermented 3-5 months, 1 year in oak, a faint light aroma -$95/bottle.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2015 SA Prüm Wehlen Sonnenuhr GG Dry Riesling – 9 g/l RS, 8.8/l acidity, to be paired with a big meat with no sauce, this specifically was age worthy for 50 years. – $95/bottle.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2025 Raimund Prüm Essence Riesling – 22g/l RS, Acid at 7.7, considered their everyday or pleasurable wine, pineapple, peach, apricot, medium dry, will age 10 years, great with fish, salads, chicken and spicy dishes – $25/bottle
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2020 SA Prüm Wehlen Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett – 42.8 g/l, alcohol 8.2%, lemon and lime flavors, fruity but not too sweet – $42/bottle
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2019 SA Prüm Wehlen Sonneunuhr Riesling Spätlese – a minimum of 60 g/l, ability to age 60 years, 8.5% alcohol, very sweet, a dessert wine – $55/bottle.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Significant discounts were offered on purchasing three packs for each of the wines. PH levels for all these wines ran in the 2.7 to 3.1 range. On the dry Riesling, they were fragile, exquisite and aromatics were astonishing. One of the last slides shown was a food pairing with each type of wine showing the diversity of foods that are optimal with different Riesling profiles.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This is a brief summary of the evening. Should you get an opportunity to listen to Ian or travel to Germany, make SA Prüm a must visit. All their wines are rated in 90+ range and some are going as high as 98 points. Your mindset on Germany Riesling will be blown away (like me) and you will endeavor to search out German Riesling’s going forward.
Sláinte or more appropriately ‘CHirz,
Michael Kelly
HARAS DE PIRQUE – CHILEAN WINE TOUR
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Another fun tasting this week, this one held in Chandler. It was called the Chilean Wine Tour put on my Vinum55. Lauren Reed from Signature Wines provided a wide range of wines showcasing Chilean diversity beyond Carménère. Wines were:
2024 Haras Pirque “Albaciara” Sauvignon Blanc – she stated many Gen Z’s were dropping a slice of jalapeño in their glass of the wine?? Tasted more like a New Zealand than Old World.$20
2024 Haras Pirque Chardonnay. This Vintner has 240 acres under vine in the Maipo Valley. Chile has 300,000 acres planted in vines with 800 active wineries and is the 6th largest producer in the world. This wine was aged in both stainless steel & concrete. $20
2024 1865 Tayu Pinot Noir – great color, semi-transparent. $32
2022 Dakel Pinot Noir- only 400 cases produced with coastal influence by Jackson Family. $72
2022 Haras Pirque “Galantus” Grand Reserve Cabernet Franc – 82% Cabernet Franc & 18% Carménère, 14 months in oak. For my tastes the best wine of the evening. $40 (I did purchase a 3 pack)
2020 Araucano Gran Araucano Cabernet Sauvignon- extremely smooth tannins. $55
2020 Sena – a Bordeaux style wines with high accolades. 53% Cab Sau ugnon, 25% Malbec, 15% Carménère and 7% Petite Verdot. $150
A great evening showing the diversity of Chilean wines but had hope to taste at least one high end Carménère.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
(Not all wines shown)
Cuda Ridge Wines Acquired by Lemmon Family / Concannon – What does it mean?
Photo from Concannon Vineyards
Larry, Margie and daughter Megan with the purple Barracuda in front of the California Historical Landmark No.641 founded by James Concannon in 1883 on the Concannon Vineyard.
Cuda Ridge Wines was founded in 2007 by Larry and Margie Dino. They announced the move of Cuda Ridge Wines from Arroyo Road in Livermore moving August 1st to Concannon Vineyards and Winery at 4590 Tesla Road in Livermore and a few questions have been asked?
When entering Concannon Winery’s courtyard off to the right is Cuda Ridge Wines indoor tasting room. Photo from Larry Dino
First what will happen to Cuda Ridge Wines label. In a nutshell, nothing bad and only good will prevail. Cuda Ridge Wines will continue with their label and have a separate tasting room at Concannon. They also will have a designated area in the lawn pavilion, one side for Concannon wines and one for Cuda Ridge Wines.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Margie Dino has completed transforming a beautiful space at Concannon Winery to make a cozy, warm and friendly indoor tasting bar and room. Kevin Baskin, VP at Concannon, I know worked quickly and long hours in getting the room ready by August 1st.
Photo from Larry Dino
With Larry’s Cuda Ridge Wines being acquired by Lemmon Family/Concannon will he still be doing Bordeaux style wines? The simple answer is yes and even more wines are planned. Larry will continue to be the consulting winemaker for all his product portfolio as well as consult, if necessary, with Concannon’s winemaker Brett Fiske.
The benefits of being co-located with Concannon are immense:
- Concannon’s wine club members will now be able to taste Cuda Ridge Wines at the same location and vice-a-versa.
- Cuda Ridge Wines will be able to use Concannon’s state-of-the-art laboratory on site without sending it off to a lab.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
- Cuda Ridge Wines can leverage mobile bottling line production now and fully automated system down the road, increase barrel storage area, etc.
- Cuda Ridge Wines will also have access to many new winery machines such as a newly installed press that can handle up to 17 tons and cold storage of the juice automatically! This new press is not a typical bladder press but a wire mesh with the juice being captured and refrigerated immediately.
Photo from Larry Dino
- Cuda Ridge Wines will continue to be a small boutique and artisan winery producing wines of distinction and award-winning quality.
Photo from Larry Dino
- Cuda Ridge Wines will be able to leverage Concannon’s resources for marketing (Harrison Miller) and production personnel.
- Without going into a lot of detail in this story, but in a subsequent story, Concannon has a vision for what Concannon Winery will become and Cuda Ridge Wines will hop on the train with events, wedding venue, special events, etc.
- Concannon and Cuda Ridge Wines, as production grows, are in active discussion with distribution partners to increase their market presence.
If there was a picture of everything coming up roses, it would be a picture of Cuda Ridge Wines finding its new, creative and innovative home at Concannon Vineyards.
More on Concannon Vineyards vision and plans in an upcoming story.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
Cellar13 Winery – An Exciting New Beginning
It is not often one gets to see a small company at its inception to grow and become a substantial part of a community. That is the case with Cellar13 Winery, with Darin Winton and Gail Henderson.
Photo from Cellar13 website
Firstly, their beginnings gained momentum with winning local wine competitions and then received national press at the SF Chronicle Wine Competition. Starting in 2017 after retiring, Darin took up winemaking, starting with enology classes and volunteering for various harvests. He became the Assistant Winemaker at local winery where he started honing his craft. Gail Henderson’s background is Human Resources for ten years and then the last twenty years she has been working as a licensed real estate broker. Gail is responsible for running Cellar13 behind the scenes with marketing, social media, wine club, holding tastings, winemaker’s dinners and so much more.
Darin is a quarter Cherokee Indian heritage and proudly uses that language for some of his wines. The artwork on the bottles is also done by a Cherokee Indian John Balloue, Darin’s uncle.
In a very short time Darin has received numerous awards for each of his wines. The list is too extensive to enumerate here but would direct you to their website to see the complete list. A few examples:
*2023 Chardonnay – Gold Medal Winner, 2026 SF Chronicle Wine Competition
*2025 Chardonnay – Gold Medal Winner, 2026 SF Chronicle Wine Competition
*2025 Albariño -98 Points, Best of Class, Double Gold Medal Winner, 2026 Orange County Fair Commercial Wine Competition
*2023 Sauvignon Blanc – Double Gold Medal Winner, 2025 SF Chronicle Wine Competition
*2025 Sidanelv – Best of Show (White Wine Blend), Best of Class, Double Gold Medal Winner, 2026 Alameda County Signature Wine Competition
*2019 Cabernet Sauvignon – Double Gold Medal Winner 97 points, 2023 Sunset International Wine Competition. Double Gold Medal Winner, 2024 Orange County Fair Wine Competition, top 1% of awards. Gold Medal Winner, 2023 SF Chronicle Wine Competition.
*2021 Cabernet Franc – 92 points, Gold Medal Winner, 2024 East Meets West Wine Competition. Gold Medal Winner-2024 Alameda County Fair. Gold Medal Winner – SF Chronicle Wine Competition.
And so many more………..
That is brief outline of their hard work and effort on chapter one from start to phenomenal growth.
Now on to chapter two. They have been pouring at Swirl in downtown Livermore and various popup locations for years. Now the exciting news: they just signed a lease agreement to take over the previous Cuda Ridge Wines location (with Cuda moving to the Concannon site). Cellar13’s new location, hopefully by the end of September, will be 2400 Arroyo Road in Livermore. They are over the moon to finally have a “home base” in which to host both their loyal club members and have the public experience their wines. Darin will also have a “home” to produce his wines.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
On a recent visit to Livermore Valley, I stopped by Swirl where they were pouring on Sunday afternoon. Greeted by the hard-working Gail pouring wine with her effervescent smile. We started off with one of my standard wines in the cellar, their award-winning Albariño.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up on the tasting and then joined by one my favorite judges/SOMM’s Fran Cunniffe, to taste the 2025 Sidanelv wine, a refreshing and crisp white blend of 25% Albariño and 75% Sauvignon Blanc.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We moved on with Darin providing “color commentary” on each exquisite and tasteful wines we sipped. The one in the picture was their Pinot Noir.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We continued through with their Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc selections. A great afternoon!
In the interim if you can’t wait until the end of September to taste their wines at their new home, they will be pouring at Swirl in downtown Livermore before moving to their permanent winery/tasting room on Arroyo Road.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2023 Gérard Bertrand Heritage An 825 Crémant de Limoux Brut with Dinner
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Recently picked up a couple of these bottles at a local event after tasting the wine. At the tasting, while going through six or seven different wines, this stood out as being the best I tasted that evening.
The wine is made up of four varieties of grapes: Chardonnay (58%), Chenin blanc (28%) and Pinot Noir (14%). Gérard Bertrand Heritage An 825 Crémant de Limoux Brut is a traditional-method French sparkling wine from Languedoc. The wine can be found for around $21 and comes in at 12% alcohol.
A quick refresher that Crémant is a French sparkling wine made outside the Champagne region using the traditional bottle-fermentation method. Key features include regional variety, lower cost, and a creamy texture. They use the méthode traditionnelle, meaning the second fermentation happens inside the bottle. Named for crème (cream) because of its soft and fine bubbles.
First on the eyes a light golden color with aromatics of honey, green apple and brioche. On the palate definite structure and elegance giving way to sips of enjoyment. The small bubbles only added a finesse and light quality to the wine. The winery states “the Chenin adds vivacity and enhances longevity.”
Light, refreshing and uplifting would best describe this wine.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The meal this evening was called Chicken and Spinach Skillet Pasta with Lemon & Parmesan cheese. Ingredients include penne pasta, EVOO, skinless chicken breast cut into bite-size pieces, kosher salt, ground pepper, minced garlic, dry white wine, lemon zest, lemon juice, unsalted butter, grated Parmesan cheese and fresh spinach. Accompanied by a fresh garden salad.
Enjoyed the meal and especially the pairing with the chicken bites and fresh Parmesan cheese. A very good food and wine pairing despite the spinach that normally calls for high acidity to balance the earthy and slightly bitterness of the spinach.
The Winery
Gérard Bertrand reveals the history of the great terroirs of the South of France. The first written trace of the Abbey of Saint Hilaire date back to 825. The Abbey is located near Limoux and is famous for having housed the monks who discovered the secret of effervescent wines.
Gérard Bertrand produces an estimated total volume of 12 to 15 million bottles of wine annually across its entire portfolio. Roughly half make it to the USA. The vineyards cover approximately 6,000 acres in southern France in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. They generate around $180 million annually. Fully one third of their production is their Rosé (led by their popular label Cote des Roses). The balance are wine varieties such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Pino Noir and Syrah.
Currently they have seven major brands which are Cote des Roses, Gris Blanc, Heritage, French Cancan, Hampton Water, Legend Vintage and Rouge Clair.
Gérard Bertrand has been committed since 2002 to the path of biodynamic viticulture.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
A Gourmet Meal at Cured Fish Bar in Livermore, California
On my recent visit to California met a good friend, Harrison Wood, for dinner at Cured Fish Bar which he has raved about for months. After many courses of delicacies, I concur one hundred percent with him!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We started off with a bottle a bottle called Poema Metodo Tracdicional Brut Cava sparkling from Spain. Wanted something not too intrusive to the fresh and sublime dishes we were about to experience.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Started out the meal sharing 6 pcs of lil Skookum oysters from Washington with an accruement of sauces and toppings. Those included grated horseradish, red + green house hot sauce and cocktail sauce.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up was the Tuna Tartare of two pieces of Wingen crostini, yuzu Kosho butter, house soy and scallion.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Other dishes included Albacore Cheesy Toast with wine braised leeks, butter, chopped smoked albacore, toasty Gouda cheese and chives.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Several other dishes kept arriving as Harrison knows the chef/owner very well. Here are just a couple pictures of the exquisitely prepared and plated foods. They all tasted better than they looked, which is hard to imagine.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Should you find yourself in Livermore, this is a must visit small boutique restaurant that prepares artisan foods. You will be astonished and outright delighted you stopped!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2020 Lavender Ridge Roussanne – One of the Best Tasted!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Lavender Ridge Vineyard tasting room is in the town of Murphys in the lower Sierra Nevada foothills. Lavender Ridge specializes in Rhone varietal wines. They include Cotes du Calaveras Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, Rolle, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Rose, Grenache, Cotes du Calaveras, Mourvedre, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, Vin Doux and Anniversaire Blanc. They also feature an artisan cheese selection that is unique and has something for just about everyone.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Roussanne on the eyes is a light radiant and clear golden straw color with medium heavy viscosity. On the nose floral aromatics, hints of pear and apricots waft into the senses. On the palate, you are treated to a silky-smooth mouthful texture. The finish provides a soft nutty almond, compounded with a hint of honey and distinct minerality. This Roussanne is powerful with floral aromatics, with hints of peaches, pears and provided a rich and silky-smooth mouthful texture. The fullness of body, almost a creamy sense, is the key contributor making this a unique wine! Roussanne brings more rounded acidity, elegance and aromatic complexities to the wine. Lavender Ridge Roussanne has consistently won awards at various wine competitions. Rich Gilpin, owner & winemaker, produces Roussanne as a standard varietal and a nice change up from Chardonnay! Today’s vintage is 2025 and it goes for $30/bottle. This wine has made my Annual Best Wines Tasted list for 7 years in a row. It will also make the list for 2026 for wines $50 and less!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired with sauteed scallops and a creative Mango Salsa this evening. The Mango Salsa included chopped mangoes, seeded and chopped bell pepper, jalapeno seeded and chopped, red onion chopped, fresh cilantro chopped, lime juice, kosher salt and chili powder. Accompanied by long and short grain brown rice and steamed broccoli. The wine provided both refreshment and a tremendous mouth feel to counterbalance any spiciness from salsa.
While several other varieties may have also worked, the mouth-filling and flavorful Roussanne was an exquisite treat this evening.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
Arizona Chef’s Week 2026 – What a Great Event at Board & Batten
This is only the second year the greater Phoenix area has held this event. It is for locally owned independent restaurants to highlight the culinary talent of their chef’s. Each of the seventy participating restaurants created a three-course menu for this week only loaded as stated “with fresh ideas and bold new flavors.” It started July 31st and ends August 9th.
We had heard from various people and read strong recommendations for Board & Batten in the north Mesa area at 4012 E Palm St, Mesa and they were all correct!
Photo from Board & Batten
In addition to the fixed menu, one could also order off the regular menu. Each of the dishes was offered a recommended wine pairing in either three ounce or six-ounce pour options.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We arrived a bit early to make sure we could get indoor seating as the weather was brutally hot. Upon entering the beautiful grounds and impeccable modern decorated restaurant, we chose to sit at the bar. Looking over an excellent and broad European wine list with a few selections of USA wines, chose an unusual Italian Inama Azienda Agricola Carménère Piu offering. Carménère today typically comes from Chile, so it piqued my interest. Had a quick taste and ordered the bottle that was a smoother Carménère than Chilian Carménère, with an Italian twist of oak and Old-World production techniques – a particularly good wine. Aromas of black plum, tobacco and dark berries. On the palate blackberries with herbs and spices. At the conclusion smooth and velvety tannins made for an enjoyable finish.
Once seated we were already delighted with the friendliness of the staff from the hostess and bar host then the wait staff and wine manager continued this exchange. All top notch and professional without any pretense.
My wife ordered Pomodoro pasta with rigatoni noodles, sweet peas, melted Burrata and basil.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I went with the AZ Chef’s Week special. For each course you had a choice of two options. For the first course went with Shaved Vera Earl Ranch Beef Tenderloin Carpaccio. Beef tallow scented peaches, Georgia’s Pesto, Olive oil, toast and fresh slices of Parmesan cheese. This was remarkable and equal to the best presentation of my favorite boutique restaurant in Paris.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The second course with Red Wine Braised Short Rib. This was prepared with creamed corn, beef belly candied, charred scallion Chimichurri. Tender beef with delicious and savory tastes. While enjoying corn, cream corn is not necessarily my favorite, but not a kernel remained in the bowl!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dessert was Dark Chocolate Date Tore of date swirl mascarpone ice cream and raspberries.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This was given to my wife, and I elected to go with a selection of the standard menu for an unusual dessert, the Crudo di Branzino with chickpea, chili crisp, watermelon, colatura and EVOO. Unfortunately, they did not get their Branzino shipment in and substitute Ahi Tuna. Good but was desiring the Branzino as I have always liked it cooked and was looking forward to it as a Crudo presentation.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Overall, an exceptional experience and excellent food. I would highly recommend the restaurant to anyone who wants a relaxing atmosphere, friendly and knowledgeable staff, and food with extraordinary culinary treats. We spent a fair amount of time talking about the wine list with Veronica, the wine buyer who was truly knowledgeable and provided keen insight as to the reasons behind her recommendations.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2023 Starfield Vineyards Aglianico – A Scarce but Growing Varietal
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background on the Aglianico
Aglianico wine grapes origin continues to be debated but thought initially is that the grape varietal was transported by Greek settlers to Southern Italy around 800 BC. However, DNA studies show no direct link to modern Greek varieties, leading many to believe it is native to southern Italy. The first written record of Aglianico was in 1520. This grape, like many others, was nearly wiped out by the late 19th century phylloxera invasion.
Aglianico is a full-bodied red wine with high acidity and tannins. Typically, with dark fruit like black cherry and plum, minerality and earthy elements are key characteristics. If you enjoy Nebbiolo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and/or Nero d’ Avola, while all are different and unique, each share some key characteristics, full body, tannins, acidity and fruit with Aglianico.
In the final 2025 Grape Crush Report for California by the USDA, Aglianico in California harvested 190 tons as compared to 161 tons in 2024. While California showed a decrease in the harvest from 2024 to 2025 of 7% for red wine grapes, Aglianico showed an increase of 11% from 161 tons to 190 tons.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
While having enjoyed many Aglianico wines over the years, I have never had one from El Dorado AVA. My expectations were pleasantly exceeded with this dark and brooding wine offering both earthy notes and fruits. First on the eyes, a dark wonderment in the glass with medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose, dark cherries, violets and plum rose up to the olfactory senses begging for that first sip. On the palate a yin-yang of old world minerality and earthiness counterbalanced with delicious aromatic fruits provided an intense flavor and yet balanced to perfection. The finish was medium length and refreshing.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine is made with 95% Aglianico, 3% Mourvedre and 2% Roussanne. It comes in at 15% alcohol and only 177 cases were produced. The wine was aged for 18 months in 27% new oak barrels and the balance being neutral. The wine underwent partial malolactic fermentation to keep the acidity lively yet softening the tannin structure. A creative process to achieve a remarkable wine.
Personally, to go with this meal, I would have liked a bit more tannins and boldness in the wine. That said, it was an extremely approachable and smooth Aglianico.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this wine from the cellar to pair with a new recipe called stuffed pepper casserole. Ingredients included olive oil, chopped yellow onion, cut bell pepper, ground beef, tomato paste, kosher salt, ground cumin, paprika, black pepper, minced garlic cloves, fresh tomatoes, cut up zucchini, chicken broth, long-grain rice, fresh parsley, Worcestershire sauce and sharp cheddar cheese. Accompanied by a fresh garden salad with Blue cheese crumbles, green onions and baby tomatoes.
The food and wine pairing was very good with the combination of fruit and spiciness of the dinner.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The winery was founded in 2012 by Tom and Rob Sinton with plantings of 31 acres on the hillsides east of Placerville, California in El Dorado County. They are located at 2759 Jacquier Road.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The naming of the wines, especially their new labels starting with the 2023 vintages, highlight the history of the region from the Gold Rush with wine names as Miner’s Inch and Rising Hope. These two are for a nearby mine.
The winery produces 17 varieties of wines comprising of mostly Rhone varieties (66%) and Italian (30%) and a few Spanish varieties. The vineyards have been farmed using sustainable and fish-friendly farming since their inception.
The wineries name Starfield refers to “Star Fields”, sites where in their words “fruit develops the optimal balance of aroma, flavor and texture”. They also consider what they refer to as Sierra Spice, the aroma and taste characteristics that come from the western facing forests surrounding the vineyards. The local trees are Ponderosa Pines, Cedars and Douglas Firs and their oils provide earthy and woodsy forest aromatics from their oils.
Sláinte,
Michael