Aridus Wine Company – Finally Visiting and Tasting their Wines in Person
Background
As a wine writer and a recent transplant to Arizona, I knew there were roughly 150 plus wineries in Arizona, with approximately 80% of all the wines produced using Willcox grapes. Decided I needed to understand the area and ventured off to meet a few of the wineries/winemakers and of course taste the wines. Surprisingly I have not been able to find many of the Arizonan wines in local bottle shops or retail stores.
Willcox AVA Background
The Willcox AVA is the largest in Arizona and encompasses 833 square miles in southern Arizona.
Map from University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
The length ranges from 40 to 45 miles, running north and south and the width averaging between 15 to 25 miles wide east to west. It is a large flat valley (or playa/bench) with an average elevation of most vineyards being 4,200 to almost 5,000 feet elevations. The Willcox Playa is sitting between the Dragoon Mountains to the west reaching 7,500 feet and the Chiricahua with the highest point 8,000 feet and Dos Cabezas Mountains 7,500 feet to the east. The highest mountain peak is in the northeast at 8,100 feet. With the high mountains surrounding the high valley floor, the diurnal temperature swings (daytime to nighttime) can average between 30-40 degrees Fahrenheit. This cooling down feature from the mountain air sinking to the basin, is a hallmark in preserving acidity in the grapes.
The land is a combination of sandy-gravelly, alluvial and volcanic loam soils which are ideal for vineyard sustainability. The Willcox AVA was designated in September 2016. Many indigenous people occupied the land like the Chiricahua Apache’s including the well-known leaders Cochise and Geronimo.
The Winery
As the title alludes to “visiting in person” is that I had previously tasted their wines both in California and in Arizona but had not met with them. This was one of the key appointments on my itinerary for this trip. Previous stories have been on their Syrah and Graciano with the Graciano making my annual list of Best Wines tasted in 2024.
Photo from Aridus Wine Company
Met with Jef Steben, their winemaker for the last two and a half years with Scott Dahmer, the winery owner. We met at their standalone tasting room at 145 N Railroad Ave in Willcox, AZ. They also have another beautiful tasting room in Scottsdale, AZ at 7173 E Main St.
Photo from Aridus Wine Company
The conversation started out similar to a few previous ones with other wineries discussing the AMA (Active Management Area) that was designated by the Arizona Department of Water Resources to preserve groundwater supplies, address severed land subsidence and stop earth fissures caused by over-extraction. The issue for Willcox AVA, that being registering for well water rights as to obtain water, everyone must drill wells in to a depth of 420 feet. There is conflict with the valley ranchers who reportedly have an estimated one million to one million and a half head of cattle consuming an extraordinary amount of water. The cattle ranches are “gobbling” up land to increase their ranches and herds. Grape growers in the AVA use a fraction of the water but are strictly regulated. For more information you can read: https://www.azwater.gov/ama/willcox-ama . The irrigation freeze (with some wineries grandfathered) prohibits entirely new acreage being planted. Landowners can only irrigate acres there were legally watered between 2019 and 2024. The crux of the issue is that lactating cow’s consume 25-35 gallons of water per day, beef cows 6-15 gallons per day and bulls require 10-15 gallons per day year-round. Vineyards in the heat of the summer require 5-8 gallons and with a drip system can get by with only 2 gallons a day, being watered 2-3 times a week. With vineyards being dormant in the winter there is a large disparity in consumption with the wineries being shortchanged in this archaic mandated ruling by the government. More later on this topic.
Back to wine! The discussion then centered on Jef’s enology degree from UC Davis in Fermentation Science and subsequent work experience at various wineries. Jef is an extremely experienced winemaker and knowledgeable in his craft. Scott mentioned that the vineyard was planted in 2015 in white wines and in 2018 they introduce their red vines. Today on the 40-acre land, they have 33 acres planted in vineyards in mostly volcanic composition soil. The vineyard is approximately 5,200 feet elevation and is one of the highest if not the highest in Willcox AVA. Being at this altitude provides a cooler climate than the bench (valley) of between 10-15 degrees.
We went through a “limited tasting” by my desire, due to timing and wanting to narrow the scope of wines to be tasted. Currently in their lineup they have the following white wines: Malvasia Bianco, Oasis (blend), Sauvignon Blanc, Scott’s Chardonnay and Viognier. The red wine line up is more extensive with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Tempranillo, Graciano Port and BBB Word Unsaid.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We settled on a limited number of wines to be tasted and evaluated each wine, which we promptly rated each as delicious. The first two being current offerings of white wine selections. The first wine was called OASIS a special blend that Jef proudly pours of Malvasia and Muscat and one other “secret varietal”. This is your patio pounder first possessing a bright and clean look, with a bouquet of floral aromas. To be served cool and can be paired with just about anything!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Up next was the 2024 Sauvignon Blanc with its true varietal characteristics of grapefruit, lime and passion fruit. A truly delightful wine and one to be paired with seafood and other selected dishes.
The third white wine will be available in October 2026, that being the Viognier (no picture). This was aged in a stone vat providing texture and nuances not necessarily found in Viognier yet still capturing key aromatics of the varietal. Those include the dominant soft apricot and honeysuckle. Once on the palate, stone fruit and melon gently coated the palate and yet the acidity and uplifting qualities were still present.
Next up was the 2024 Merlot (no picture). An extremely smooth, dark and lovely Merlot for sipping while sitting next to a fire. At this point in the tasting/discussions, what hit me was that while using the dump bucket, as I had two more meetings and some significant driving still to do, I felt extremely guilty as each wine simply got better and better!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This fourth wine, 2024 Malbec tied for the best scores of the tasting hitting all the key characteristics of the varietal. This again will be released in October 2026. Dark and juicy with an undeniable purple hue in the glass and crossed between a fine waltz and bar room brawl on the palate. Delicious and full of energy and one to get right away!
While the last, after much discussion about the 8th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition coming up in March in 2027, Scott insisted I try their 2024 Cabernet Franc. While I created the event and am the host, I don’t judge in the competition. Just on the aroma alone, I would declare this wine a real contender for an excellent award (the actual competition being a blind event, so I am not influencing anyone!). This had a similar pedigree like the Malbec being rough and tumble and yet elegant and graceful. I have a friend coming the following week from Texas and bought a bottle to share with him when here. We, or more specifically I was so taken back by the quality of the wine, I didn’t capture a picture. Suffice it to say this would be another one to get upon release.
In conclusion and rushing out of the meeting as it extended the allotted time by over an hour, I was off to another winery. Upon my next visit to Aridus Wine Company, I will allow a lot more time to savor and enjoy their exquisite wines.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
L’Ecole No.41 Presentation and Wine Tasting at Vinum55 Chandler
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Two weeks ago, attended the L’Ecole No.41 presentation and wine tasting given by Annie Wallace. Upon entering each attendee was given a tasting of 2024 L’Ecole No.41 Chenin Blanc. This was extremely refreshing, a perfect opening on a warm and humid day with a beautiful bouquet with a slight sweet finish and complexity derived from ancient vines that were grafted.
Picture from L’Ecole website
Annie went into the history of L’Ecole No.41 being the oldest winery in Walla Walla in Washington. The word L’Ecole in French means schoolhouse and the No. 41 was the designation of the school district from 1915. The original owners were enthralled with the French countryside and so named the winery. When the schoolhouse was moved to the winery, they added a second story which today is one of their two tasting facilities. Annie went into a detailed geological background showing the ancient activities that produced a unique soil, wind and weather condition for the estate. Wine Enthusiast has named L’Ecole in the top 100 wineries in the USA a total of eighteen times.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The second wine was a 2024 L’Ecole Frenchtown Sauvignon Blanc. This was wonderfully quaffable with soft citrus on the nose. This was only their second vintage and was aged in both stainless steel and neutral French barrel, then combined for bottling. The taste was almost “too soft” to be a Sauvignon Blanc, but very easy to enjoy solo without food.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Up next was the highlight of the evening for me being their 2022 L’Ecole Columbia Valley Merlot. It was 85% Merlot with 15% Cabernet Franc for good measure. It was described as having oak tannins with new world fruit. First was the dark and mysterious coloring, followed by fruit forward flavors including plum and dark cherries counterbalanced by a skosh of pepper. The deep coloring was explained by the wide temperature providing a thicker skin than normal which also boosted the tannins providing a tad cranberry quality on the finish. This was not a Merlot talked about in “Sideways”, but rather a “kick ass” Merlot. If you are Merlot fan, this is one worthy of trying.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next was the 2022 L’Ecole Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. This used 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes giving it’s a truly remarkable coloring in the glass. It was a balanced wine with softness and tannins kept in check. Wish it had a more noticeable aroma to make it an exquisite wine. That stated it was still a very solid and enjoyable Cabernet Sauvignon.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We then moved on to the last two wines which were blends. The first being the 2022 L’Ecole Apogee. This is a Bordeaux style wine made with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec. The vineyard used was from ancient lava flows, bedrock basalt and alluvial soil. This single vineyard designated wine provided structure, a “chewy quality” and noticeable tannins which were all very appreciated.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Another blend followed being the 2022 L’Ecole Ferguson with a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. This vineyard has volcanic soil producing concentrated berries giving the imbiber a sharp taste with a tad sharper finish. This wine was given the Decanter Award as the Best Bordeaux in the World with a 98-point score.
All the wines this evening were especially enjoyable with 4 out of 6 making my quality level to be included in the cellar. These were remarkable in providing more depth and elegance than many I personally had previously tasted from Washington.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
8th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition registration will open for Early Bird signups beginning October 1st, 2026.
How will the competition be judged? The event will be a blind tasting using the “Danish System”, sometimes called the group method. Unique to this event, two separate judging stations will be set up. The first will comprise of Professional Judges and the second being the People’s Choice Judges (serious consumers). Each set of Judges will award medals and award Best of Show based on geographic regions and categories. Additionally, each set of judges will select a Grand Sweepstakes winner from a taste off all the Division & Category winners.
Who are the judges? We have invited Tom Bender once again to head up the Professional Judging Panel(s). Tom has headed the California Sierra Foothill Competition for over 35 years, served on California State Fair Judges, is a well-known writer for various wine magazines and teaches at a local college. Other judges slated include Mike Dunne retired food editor, wine columnist for the Sacramento Bee, distinguished judge emeritus at San Francisco Chronicle and other events, Fran Cunniffe a DipWSET and certified Sommelier, Tana Cole winemaker from Sonoma Valley, Napa, Lodi and Calaveras AVA’s and other judges with WSET I, II and III qualifications. People’s Choice Judges are astute individuals with years of experience. All judges are prepared with extensive documentation and profiles on Cabernet Franc’s characteristics from various geographic areas in advance. Each wine is judged on its own terroir characteristics within their respective geographic category/area and not against other regions.
Meet three of our six esteemed Professional Judges, Mike Dunne, Shelly Fitzgerald and Tom Bender.
Mike Dunne has been writing wine stories for 50 years, mostly on California wines but also of wines from his distant travels. For 30 years he was a staff writer and editor for The Sacramento Bee in Northern California. When he retired he was the newspaper’s food editor, wine columnist and restaurant critic. In retirement, he continues to write for various publications and platforms. On the wine-competition circuit he has judged up to 23 competitions in a single year. While locked down during the Covid-19 pandemic, he wrote and published a book about the evolution of the wine trade in the greater Sacramento area: “The Signature Wines of Superior California: 50 Wines that Define the Sierra Foothills, the Delta, Yolo and Lodi.” A native San Franciscan who grew up in the foothill hamlet of Sonora, he resides in Sacramento with his wife Martha, also a wine judge.
Shelly Fitzgerald is the Wine Director at Vinum 55 in Arizona, with more than two decades of experience spanning restaurants, retail, wine education, writing, consulting, and judging. She holds the WSET Diploma (DipWSET), Certified Sommelier (CS), Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), American Wine Expert (AWE), and Italian Wine Scholar (IWS) credentials, and is an Advanced Cava Educator. A longtime WSET educator, Shelly has taught Levels 1 through 3 and currently oversees wine education and programming at Vinum 55. Her experience as a wine judge and writer, combined with extensive travel through wine regions in the United States and internationally, has shaped both her palate and her approachable style of wine education.
Tom Bender is a Sierra foothill resident; and an instructor in the Columbia College Culinary Arts program where he has taught wine and restaurant management related classes for over 45 years. In addition to teaching, he currently is the Sierra Foothill salesperson for Astoria Wine Group, representing over 25 premium wineries. From 2006 to 2024 he managed O’Brien’s Market extensive wine department and popular wine bar in Modesto, CA. Prior to that he managed Columbia’s City Hotel for over 25 years, where he created its award-winning wine list and cellar.
Over the years he has been fortunate to visit most of the world’s most important wine regions including lesser traveled ones such as China, Turkey, and Croatia. Since 1981 he has coordinated the Calaveras County Fair “Sierra Foothill Wine Competition”. He is also a judge at a number of competitions including the CA State Fair, Amador County Fair, the International Cabernet Franc Judging, and Folsom’s Sierra Foothill Judging. Tom has also been a successful home winemaker for over forty years, having won gold medals for wines made by his college class and the “Lost Boys”, a fun group of local Sonora home winemakers.
Registration information will be announced on Thursday, Oct 1st, 2026.
Cheers,
Michael Kelly, Founder of International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition
This year’s co-sponsors are:
Gold – Commemorative Air Museum, Mesa, AZ. https://www.azcaf.org
Gold – John Lilly, Premier Real Estate Advisor, http://www.JohnLillyProperties.com
Silver – D’Vine Bistro & Wine Bar -Mesa, https://www.dvinebistromesa101.com
Silver – VINUM55, Scottsdale https://www.vinum55.com
S-K-Y-H-A-V-E-N Vineyards & Wines Visit, Willcox AVA, Arizona
Background
As a wine writer and a recent transplant to Arizona, I knew there were roughly 150 plus wineries in Arizona, with approximately 80% of all the wines produced using Willcox grapes. Decided I needed to understand the area and ventured off to meet a few of the wineries/winemakers and of course taste the wines. Surprisingly I have not been able to find many of the Arizonan wines in local bottle shops or retail stores.
Willcox AVA Background
The Willcox AVA is the largest in Arizona and encompasses 833 square miles in southern Arizona.
Map from University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
The length ranges from 40 to 45 miles, running north and south and the width averaging between 15 to 25 miles wide east to west. It is a large flat valley (or playa/bench) with an average elevation of most vineyards being 4,200 to almost 5,000 feet elevations. The Willcox Playa is sitting between the Dragoon Mountains to the west reaching 7,500 feet and the Chiricahua with the highest point 8,000 feet and Dos Cabezas Mountains 7,500 feet to the east. The highest mountain peak is in the northeast at 8,100 feet. With the high mountains surrounding the high valley floor, the diurnal temperature swings (daytime to nighttime) can average between 30-40 degrees Fahrenheit. This cooling down feature from the mountain air sinking to the basin, is a hallmark in preserving acidity in the grapes.
The land is a combination of sandy-gravelly, alluvial and volcanic loam soils which are ideal for vineyard sustainability. The Willcox AVA was designated in September 2016. Many indigenous people occupied the land like the Chiricahua Apache’s including the well-known leaders Cochise and Geronimo.
The Winery
Picture by SKYHAVEN Vineyards and Wines
SKYHAVEN Wines was recommended by another winery and very much appreciated. Spoke to Bridget on the phone, setting up the time and date for the visit. Upon driving down several “dirt & gravel” roads, I had no idea what to expect. Drove in cold and I was instantly warmed up by their radiant personalities, open hospitality and sincere desire to produce outstanding wines.
Met with Chris Brinkmeyer, who is trained and earned his viticulture and enology degree from Yavapai College. He spent time working at Pillsbury Wine Company honing his craft. You know he has a twist on producing wines as rather than calling himself the winemaker, he goes by The Wine Shepherd. Once into our conversation, it made perfect sense as his belief is that “great wine isn’t manufactured, its guided. Coaxed. Listened to”.
His life partner is Bridget Hildebrand who also has a unique title as CPKO (Chief Pants Kicking Officer)! While a bit lighthearted, Bridget spent 25 plus years in building brands in the tech industry and traveling about the world tasting wines indigenous to various areas. Bridget handles the marketing, manages the tasting rooms and is the glue holding these various pieces together.
Just by the self-anointed job titles, this is no ordinary winery! While appearing lighthearted, their work ethic and determination is at a higher level. While only being in their second year, they have won awards at both the prestigious 2026 San Francisco Chronicle and Arizona Governor’s Cup wine competition. For a newbie wine company, this shows the dedication to their craft. Well done Chris and Bridget, the future is extremely bright for you.
Their property is ten acres with seven and half planted in vines. Each of the previous wines are all small lot with limited and controlled batches.
The name Skyhaven is a bit long, suffice it say it is easy to understand with the sky pictures taken this afternoon. The balance of story Chris or Bridget will be happy to tell.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The winery’s focus is on French, Spanish, and Italian varietals grown on the high-desert Willcox Bench. Their current line up includes 2023 Syrah, 2023 Pandemonium blend (43% Grenache, 43% Mourvèdre, 14% Syrah), 2025 Viognier and 2025 Spectre Rosé. While all these wines are solid wines, their award-winning wines include:
2023 Cabernet Franc – 2026 San Francisco Gold Medal Winner
2023 Mourvèdre – 2026 San Francisco Silver Medal Winner
2023 Artificer Petit Verdot – 2026 San Francisco Silver Medal Winner
They have also received awards from the Arizona Governor’s Wine Competition.
We sat and discussed many topics beyond their delicious wines for some time. When tasting through about five wines, all being solid elixirs, three stood out as excellent and exquisite. The first was their Syrah. This is 98% Syrah and 2% Picpoul Blanc making this a solid representation of Rhone French wine. Dark and luscious on the eyes, with fruit forward aromas and taste, coupled with a modicum of tannins and finishing smooth and silky. The wine was aged 18 months in neutral oak barrels and goes for $34/bottle. This wine won a Gold Medal at the SF Chronicle wine competition and at the 2036 Governor’s Cup a Silver Medal.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up tasting was the 2023 Cabernet Franc, a Gold Medal winner at SF Chronicle wine competition. Only a few wineries from my limited research in Willcox AVA produce a Cabernet Franc. This wine on the eyes again provided a cavernous darkness in color and held all the varietal characteristics of both old world and new world combined. Pyrazines were minimal with only the exquisite taste of the fruit being presented. Aged 18 months in neutral oak. This wine also won a Gold Medal at the 2026 Arizona Governor’s Cup and “Judge’s Choice” award. An excellent representation of Cabernet Franc. I purchased a bottle on my way out!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The third being their Viognier. We got caught up discussing a specific Double Gold and Best of Class Viognier wines which I had judged at a recent competition in California and the similarities with their bottle. We discussed getting together in Mesa to try a side by side tasting soon. All three of us were so engaged in the conversation, no picture was taken!
Don’t despair, as they have two tasting facilities; one at the winery and just opening October 1st -3rd in Bisbee at 14 Main Street. If you can’t attend either of those locations, they are scheduled to be at the SanTan Art and Wine Festival October 31 to November 1st, 2026 at 2218 E Williams Field Road, Suite 235, Gilbert, AZ in the Phoenix area.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
Visit to Birds and Barrels Vineyards in Willcox AVA, Arizona
Background
As a wine writer and a recent transplant to Arizona, I knew there were roughly 150 plus wineries in Arizona, with approximately 80% of all the wines produced using Willcox grapes. Decided I needed to understand the area and ventured off to meet a few of the wineries/winemakers and of course taste the wines. Surprisingly I have not been able to find many of the Arizonan wines in local bottle shops or retail stores.
Willcox AVA Background
The Willcox AVA is the largest in Arizona and encompasses 833 square miles in southern Arizona.
Map from University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
The length ranges from 40 to 45 miles, running north and south and the width averaging between 15 to 25 miles wide east to west. It is a large flat valley (or playa/bench) with an average elevation of most vineyards being 4,200 to almost 5,000 feet elevations. The Willcox Playa is sitting between the Dragoon Mountains to the west reaching 7,500 feet and the Chiricahua with the highest point 9,759 feet and Dos Cabezas Mountains 7,500 feet to the east. With the high mountains surrounding the high valley floor, the diurnal temperature swings (daytime to nighttime) can average between 30-40 degrees Fahrenheit. This cooling down feature from the mountain air sinking to the basin, is a hallmark in preserving acidity in the grapes.
photo by Karen Fasimpaur from Portal
The land is a combination of sandy-gravelly, alluvial and volcanic loam soils which are ideal for vineyard sustainability. The Willcox AVA was designated in September 2016. Many indigenous people occupied the land like the Chiricahua Apache’s including the well-known leaders Cochise and Geronimo.
The Winery – Birds and Barrels Vineyards
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery was founded by Chad and Monica Preston in 2015. Previously they were in real estate in the Phoenix area and had a goal to produce artisan wines. They harvest their grapes by hand, and carefully handle all the pressing and winemaking functions. They believe this is critical in maintaining high-quality wines which they take great pride in producing.
The vineyard is comprised of 15 acres planted in a variety of grapes with Birds and Barrels consuming all their grapes with no selling off of their grapes to other wineries. The mix of grapes are roughly 40% white and 60% red grape varieties. Their current wine releases include a wide assortment: Dolcissimo (Symphony), Malbec, Petit Verdot, Rosé (Syrah), Vino Bianco (Riesling & Chardonnay), Riesling, Chardonnay, SBR (Tannat, Petit Verdot, Malbec), Syrah Batch (Sirah/Shiraz), Grenache, Petit Manseng, Tempranillo, Over and Under Blend (Malbec & Syrah) and a few other blends.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We met at their vineyard location which is a large room that can be utilized for a variety of events with one side being glass with a beautiful view of vineyards, the playa and mountains in the distance. The Vineyard being located at 5000 E Arzberger Road and their in-town tasting is located at 100 N Railroad Ave in downtown Willcox.
Far too many wines to taste at one sitting but we were able to taste and discuss six wines with each of them approachable and easy drinking. Two wines of those tasted stood out as being exceptionally delicious. There were the Over and Under (Malbec & Syrah) and SBR blend.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2021 Over and Under Blend hit all the key points of my evaluation on the eyes, the nose/aromas, taste and finish. Easy sipping, with rounded and caressing tannins, blueberry and mocha notes with a lovely soft finish having just a modicum of sweetness with a 50/50 blend of Malbec and Syrah.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This non-vintage SBR red wine of 60% Tannat, 20% Petit Verdot, and 20% Malbec. As it turns out this is Monica’s favorite in their line up (if you can have a “favorite child”). They describe it as a “Super Bold Red”. Once again, it hit all my evaluation marks for on the eyes showing a clean and radiant coloring, on the nose with aromas of beautiful dark fruits with corresponding tastes and with the finish being a soft landing with tannins that were silky smooth.
Once tasting their wines, it is very understandable to comprehend their slogan “refinement in a bottle”.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
Smith-Madrone Vineyards A Beautifully Dry Riesling
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The winery was founded in 1971 by Stuart Smith. Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet.
Left to Right: Charles, Stuart and François Photo ©Michael Kelly
The founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker, and the associate winemaker is François Bugué All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They produce Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc).
Very few wineries of the 1,000+ I have visited have exemplary wines across their offering; Smith-Madrone Vineyards is an exception with tremendous quality of each varietal. For reference click:
Cabernet Franc Story
Cabernet Sauvignon Story
Chardonnay Story
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A quick background on Riesling. It is the 20th most grown variety and in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the top three white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted worldwide” per Wikipedia. Riesling is adaptable to growing in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of citrus and peach notes for warm, apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.
In the California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush Final Report white wine harvest in 2025 was 1,324,464 tons. Riesling was only 27,857 tons, essentially down a small amount from 2024 of 29,348 tons. In 2025 the only two significant white wine increases were Albariño and Sauvignon Blanc.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2019 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apples on the nose. A deeper golden yellow color than previous vintage with medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lemon zest, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the lime citrus. A modicum of beeswax makes it extremely mouth filling. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity is jovial and enticing with a semi-sweet crescendo. Very low residual sugar (.7%) and coming in at 13.3% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,087 cases. The current release is their 2021 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Duck, Pork, Bacon, Chicken, Shrimp, and Crab are suggested foods for Riesling. Chose this wine to pair with one of my favorite dishes, Chicken Pad Thai. The Smith-Madrone 2019 Estate Riesling was pulled from cellar for last night’s meal due to spiciness of the dish Chicken Pad Thai or at least the way we prepare it! Last evening went with a much more flavorful and spicier recipe. The ingredients were fresh whole wheat noodles, virgin olive oil, minced garlic, cooked chicken, eggs, bean sprouts, sliced red bell pepper, green onions, peanuts and lime juice. The Pad Thai sauce included fish sauce, soy sauce, brown sugar, rice vinegar, Siracha and creamy peanut butter! The Riesling’s being dry with a tinge of semi-sweet finish was spot on for this meal.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Limes were plated to squeeze the juice over the top of the dish as well as ground peanuts and green onion slices. The meal was packed with a punch of flavor and warmth! The 2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling was a godsend. The wine was refreshing and quenched the palate.
The 2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling has made the Best Wines tasted in 2023, 2024 and 2025 and 2019 will also make my Best Wines tasted in 2026! We stock the Smith-Madrone Riesling specifically for this food pairing, plus a few others.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
A Wonderful Tasting at Vinum55 with Caiarossa and Château Giscours
Last evening a rare and appreciated treat at Vinum55 in Scottsdale with two wineries, one in Italy and one in France, owned by the same family being presented and tasted. While only five exquisite wines were served due to the rarity and price points, each were remarkable. Pricing for the wines ranged from $85 to $140/bottle. It was the only session I attended where all the wines were given my higher scores across the board.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
After a brief introduction by Shelly Fitzgerald of Vinum55 (on the right) , she turned the presentation and tasting over to Pauline Wlodarzyck from the winery.
Caiarossa was founded in 1998, and AJ Family Domaines acquired the estate in 2004. The land is biodynamic farmed with similar winemaking practices in place. The property is in Tuscany between Volterra and Ceche just outside Riparbella. The estate receives cool breezes off the sea, and the vineyards are located up on the hillsides. The land is worked by hand due to the steep sloped vineyards.
Now with the background information in hand, we commenced the tasting!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We started out the evening with 2022 Caiarossa, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese and Grenache. Both this one and next were smooth, lively and provided an airy freshness. In the glass, both wines were radiant and bright.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The second wine was a 2017 Caiarossa that was a warm/hot year in Italy producing ripe fruits tasted of Plum and red fruits. A similar blend to the first with percentages varying and this substituting Alicante Bouschet instead of Grenache. This provided on the palate a more earthy with slightly more tannins and acidity than the 2022. A soft note of sweetness was noted on the finish.
Picture from http://www.TripAdvisor.comTripadvisor
We then moved on to three of Château Giscours with its tasting room and guest rooms building dating back to the 1790’s. This is located on the left bank of Bordeaux in the town of Labarde, in the Margaux appellation of the Médoc, Bordeaux, France. The refurbished winery was built using gravity fed principles for winemaking and even included feng shui concepts into the architecture. Their 2025 was named Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator. The estate is 400 acres with no irrigation.
Started off with the 2022 Château Giscours with lively fruit being noted in the glass. On the eyes this received a noted “Excellence” with the bright coloring.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The next wine was the 2020 Château Giscours that on the eyes was crisp, semi-transparent made with 56% Cabernet Sauvignon and 44% Merlot fermented in both stainless steel and concrete tanks. The wine was aged in 50% French Oak barrels for 12-15 months. This produced an elegant and voluptuous wine with energetic berries abounding on the palate. This wine received scores all in the mid 90’s by a host of critics. This received my highest rating during the tasting.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A very special treat of the 2008 Château Giscours was offered. This wine on the nose had both an earthy and barnyard character, with tastes of tobacco and layers of enjoyment. The finish provided smooth and silky tannins. I noticed just a hint of copper on the edges but beyond enjoyable to the last sip!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A great tasting by any standard and very much appreciated by those attending. A big hearty thanks to Pauline and Vinum55 for holding this event.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
2016 Vatan Tinta de Toro – Christopher Columbus Ship Named La Pinta Brought Tinta de Toro to the New World in 1492!
Brief History of Tempranillo
photo credit of almost black Tempranillo grapes on the vine in Toro, Spain by Fabio Ingrosso
The name Tempranillo comes from the Spanish word temprano (meaning early), a reference to the fact that it ripens several weeks earlier than most other Spanish red grapes. That said most Tempranillo’s exhibit a big blackberry, leathery and a slight smoky aroma – an earthiness character.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Wines from Toro, located in Northwest Spain and their noted Tempranillo wines, are especially known for coloration and boldness. The literal translation is “dark bull” – meaning this Tempranillo is not for the faint of heart! Tinta de Toro translates as “ink of Toro” or “bull’s ink” referring to its dark and brooding color. Toro is also an ancient wine-making town and region in Zamora, Spain.
Reproducción de la Carabela “La Pinta” en el Muelle de las Carabelas del Paraje de La Rábida, en Palos de la Frontera.
The Tinta de Toro Spanish grape dates to the 2nd century B.C. It was the drink chosen for Christopher Columbus’ trip to India when he discovered America. A fun fact is that so much wine was stored for the voyage in 1492, one of the ships was name “La Pinta” (pint) because the cellars of ship were full of this dark beautiful wine.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
For the 2016 Vatan Tinta de Toro, a large portion of the grapes come from a vineyard planted in 1943 with some coming from their renown 1910 vineyard. After fermentation the wine is aged in new French oak barrels for 22 months. What comes out on the other side is a mouthful of wonderment! The 2016 vintage also came out at 15.5% alcohol adding to the robustness of this vintage. The 2016 vintage is hard to find and if found goes for around $50/bottle. The current vintage is 2023 and has scored 95 points.
Antonio Galloni stated it best in his review stating it is a “Dark purple. Fresh black and blue fruits, pipe tobacco and candied violet on the highly perfumed, smoke-accented nose. Fleshy, seamless and broad in the mouth, offering intense blueberry and cherry-vanilla flavors and an exotic touch of Indian spices. The spicy quality carries strongly through the finish, which clings with excellent tenacity and smooth, building tannins.”
Most California and other Tempranillo wines do not come close to this intensity. If you are looking for a “different big red wine” without the stark tannins, pick up a bottle of Tinta de Toro for a big, bold, exotic yet integrated wine.
Vatan Tinta de Toro has been a fixture for years in the cellar and has made my annual Best Wines Tasted list for many years. This 2016 will be on the 2026 list coming out in December.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Picked this wine tonight to enjoy with a creative Stuffed Pepper Casserole my wife created. The casserole ingredients included EVOO, chopped white onion, chopped jalapeño pepper, chopped garlic cloves, ground sausage and beef, black beans, roasted tomatoes, corn kernels, chili powder, dried oregano, ground cumin, brown rice and different colored bell peppers. All this was combined with the meat and rice. She first browned the meat and then added the ingredients with a layer of meat/rice then shredded Cheddar cheese, then another layer of meat/rice and topped with cheddar cheese in a casserole dish to be baked.
The wine was chosen with its balanced structure and moderate tannins that harmonized with the savory meat and rice.
An excellent food and wine pairing!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
2022 Iron Hub Winery Chardonnay – One of the Best Chardonnay Wines Under $50
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Chardonnay typically does not do well in the warmer climate of Amador County and when first offered it I was taken back. It was explained that the vineyard for this wine is in Amador County but located at a much higher elevation called Spanish Creek vineyard in the Sierras at an elevation of 2700 feet. The cooler climate is ideal for producing exquisite Chardonnay grapes.
The small lot 2022 Chardonnay on the eyes is a glistening golden color with medium viscosity. The first aromas on the nose were like a shot heard around the world. Fruits of green and Golden Delicious apple and pear shouted out their presence in the glass. Secondary flavors of dry apricots were also present. From the first sip a creamy textural wine with previously mentioned fruits came together like a well-orchestrated symphony. Added to the mix was vanilla which was just slightly present on nose and became infused in the glass with gentle oak overtones. The finish was long, poised and glamorous like a family portrait with a hint of brioche. At $34 per bottle, this wine offers exceptional quality at a reasonable price, in my opinion. It comes in at 14.7% alcohol.
Aged in 34% new French oak barrels and the remainder being neutral French oak. Held in the barrels for 11 months and went through 100% malolactic fermentation.
Iron Hub Chardonnay has made my annual Best Wines Tasted each year for the last five years. It will also be included in the 2026 listing.
The current vintage is 2023 and is still listed at $34/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a new recipe called Baked Pistachio Crusted Chicken. A chicken breast is coated with mixture of grounded pistachios, garlic powder, onion powder, a dash of Cayenne, black pepper, salt and Dijon mustard. The flavors and texture of this chicken were excellent. Accompanied by Mediterranean couscous with herbs and baby asparagus. A tasty meal with the Iron Hub Chardonnay providing both a mouthful of texture and creaminess. A very intriguing and solid food and wine pairing.
The Winery
Photo from Iron Hub website
The winery was founded by Tom Jones from Lava Cap Winery fame in the Apple Hill area near Placerville. Tom completed his master’s degree in Viticulture & Enology from UC Davis, and for almost 30 years developed award-winning wines. Tom and his wife Beth’s new endeavor began in 2014 with the purchase of the 33-acre property that had been known as Amador Foothill Winery. Having control of the grapes from vineyard to bottle was key in his quest for quality control with 17 acres planted in vines.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The name of the winery came from Tom’s mountain sojourns in the area. On an adventure he discovered an antique, hand-forged wagon wheel hub in a remote area. This small winery on Steiner Road drew a parallel with his goal of making small lot artisan wines like the craftsmanship of the “iron hub” he found on a walk. The beautiful new tasting room was opened in December 2017.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Spencer, their son, following in his father’s footsteps by also graduating from UC Davis with a master’s degree from the Department of Viticulture and Enology, is the winery’s winemaker. Today, they established a dynamic father-son winemaking team. Spencer enjoys the demand of a hands-on approach to every aspect of the winemaking process, from tending the grapes in the estate vineyards to carefully crafting both red and white wines. They recently added 10 acres managing the Spanish Creek site they are leasing. Having now 27 acres of “estate property” to manage is keeping them very busy.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2016 Cuda Ridge Wines Reserve Malbec – An Abundant Wine By Any Standard
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Malbec has always been one of my favorite varietals. While having had Cuda Ridge Wines regular Malbec which is excellent, more recently tasted a Cuda Ridge Wines Reserve Malbec. Purchased a few bottles of 2016 and my reaction was one of portentous joy how solid this exalted quality of this wine tasted!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine, when poured into the glass, possessed a dark royal purple coloring that was radiant. With a medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose, aromas of black fruits and earthiness wafted into the senses begging to be tasted. Once on the palate, this sublime wine bursts forth with blackberries, plum as the main fruits. Followed with exotic spices of anise, cloves and a touch of cinnamon. Finally, the finish provided with black pepper, hints of dark roasted coffee, smokiness and dry earthiness provide a long-lasting and enjoyable conclusion. A flashback to being smokey and rugged, yet this wine vacillating with a pedigree of silkiness and cragginess with its lovely tannins. A full and well-developed wine.
This is 100% Malbec coming from the White Cat Vineyard in Livermore. The wine is aged in Pennsylvanian American oak, with 50% being new and 50% neutral. The wine comes in at 14.7% alcohol and was sold at $60/bottle. It was aged in barrel for 30 months.
The current release is 2022 and sells for $60/bottle.
This wine most definitely will make my annual list of Best Wines tasted in 2026.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dinner with this wine was a 24-hour marinated flank steak. The flank steak was tenderized and marinated 24 hours with the following only: Chaka sauce and Flatiron Barbeque Rub. It then was placed on the infrared ceramic burner at 1500 degrees for about 3 minutes a side. The steak was so tender, turning it over on the searing element, it started to fall apart! Accompanying the meal was a exquisite fresh salad with crumbled Blue cheese, bacon, green onions, halved cherry tomatoes and topped with Blue cheese dressing.
The Malbec with its fruit surrounded each bite of meat. A delicious and matched food /wine pairing.
The Winery
Photo from Cuda Ridge
In July, Cuda Ridge Wines was acquired by the Lemmon Family Vineyard and since August 1st, 2026 now resides with their own tasting room at Concannon Vineyard and Winery location in Livermore at 4590 Tesla Road. Larry Dino continues to make the wine at Concannon. For a complete story on the acquisition and their new beginnings see a previously published story with details at:
This will only bring new opportunities and creativity to the Cuda Ridge Wines portfolio with the vision that Tom Lemmons has for the vineyard and winery. More information is available here:
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.CudaRidgeWines.com