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2020 Ehret Merlot – This wine Would Have Turned Miles Upside Down in Sideways!!
Background
Miles the character played by Paul Giamatti caused extraordinary damages to the Merlot wine market in the 2004 movie Sideways with his irrational distain of Merlot. While not the theme of the movie, Miles outright hatred of Merlot was a sub-theme while he and his friend were struggling to cope with their addictions, middle age and breaking out of their ordinary lives. The impact of the movie resulted in Merlot which had been 20% of California production dropping to 13%. By 2017, Pinot Noir production surpassed Merlot for the first time and hasn’t fallen behind since. More economic impact on the wine industry and details can be found in an article by Steven S. Cuellar, PhD from Sonoma State University’s Economic Dept.: https://winebusinessanalytics.com/sections/printout_article.cfm?content=61265&article=feature
The Winery
The Ehret Family Winery owners are Pierre and Susan Ehret with their three children Alex, Christian and Isabella. They established the vineyard and started producing grapes in 1996 at the Bavarian Lion Vineyards. It is one of the largest estates in Knights Valley consisting of 1800 acres of both hillside and valley floor terrain. Currently 500 acres are planted in vineyards allowing the balance to provide an ecosystem for plants and birdlife to dwell. From 1996 they sold their fruit to some of the more well-known wineries throughout Napa and Sonoma counties. In 2005, they selected the highest quality grapes and started their family brand, Ehret Family Winery. Today they produce various Cabernet Sauvignon’s, Red Blends, Zinfandel, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc wines. Their tasting room is located in Healdsburg at 422 Healdsburg Ave and appointments are required.
Map courtesy from Vintroux https://vineyardandwinerysales.com/
Knights Valley is located in Northern Sonoma County between Alexander Valley and over the Napa Valley border next to Calistoga.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
One of the key lines in the movie Sideways was from Miles stating “No, if anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any #*&%-ing Merlot!” If Miles had tasted this wine, he would be a changed man! This wine on the eyes was dark and enticing, not a “plain Jane” Merlot coloring. Lush purple and lively on the eyes with medium to medium heavy viscosity. On the nose ripe plums and red cherries wafted into the olfactory senses. Once on the palate, a combination of the juicy plum but not sweet enliven the mouth. Also a beeswax coating surround the palate. On the finish gives a hint of vanilla and concludes with noticeable tannins in the back of the mouth and a chewiness note often found with Merlot. This is one strong Merlot to be reckoned with and with layers of enjoyment. This is one of four Merlot’s that I consider noteworthy to be in the cellar and aged.
No price is shown for the 2020 Ehret Merlot but the 2019 was listed at $65/bottle. The wine is 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was chosen to go with tonight’s dinner of a lightly browned on a skillet and then baked salsa chicken. Spices added before baking were garlic salt, cumin, chili powder and smoked paprika. Accompanied by yellow corn and fresh garden salad with bacon and Champagne dressing. The wine, having not tasted it before and thinking it might be a mellow Merlot (which it wasn’t) would go well rounding out the spices used on the chicken. Actually this Merlot would have been better suited for a ribeye steak or carne asada, as it possessed such a dynamic range and intensity of flavors.
This will make my list of Best Wines tasted in the year. As such, I will be stocking it in the cellar!
Sláinte,
Michael
2023 Wood Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc – A New Offering!
Wood Family Vineyards will be introducing their new Sauvignon Blanc on April 28th. What makes this different than their current Sauvignon Blanc which is produced in stainless steel tanks, they made a barrel fermented Sauvignon Blanc. This entailed making 4 barrels in neutral oak barrels and 1 in an Acacia barrel. After 3 months, they transferred the wine from the Acacia barrel to another neutral barrel. They continued aging the wine in oak for an additional 5 months before bottling.
The great fact of the matter, Sauvignon Blanc wine lovers now will have a choice in two distinct profiles going forward. Best to describe their stainless steel Sauvignon Blanc first and then below under “The Wine” describe this new offering.
Picture on Stainless Steel Produced Sauvignon Blanc photo ©Michael Kelly
A recap from my story written in January on the stainless steel Sauvignon Blanc stated the following:
The stainless steel fermented version is very close to a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with grapefruit, lemon grass, etc. However this is just a bit “tamer’ with pineapple, yet zesty and lively. On the eyes a tantalizing light golden coloring and medium viscosity. On the nose aromas of lemon grass and tropical floral rise up to meet the imbiber. On the palate, the strong flavors of grapefruit and lemon grass swirl about like a party in the mouth. Mostly tart with a faint hint of pineapple and passion fruit. On the finish, a puckering and enjoyable finish of lemon zest. A complete and hearty Sauvignon Blanc from Livermore!! Only 415 cases produced and the wine was released in early March and priced at $34/bottle.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo of new barrel aged Sauvignon Blanc ©Michael Kelly
The first thing you notice is a different bottle. The stainless steel Sauvignon Blanc bottle is clear with a screw cap. The barrel treated version has the colored glass bottle and a cork top.
Generally speaking the specific Acacia wood barrel and stirring of the lees makes the wine feel creamier and much broader on the palate. This is exactly the taste and texture Wood Family Vineyards targeted for this wine. Still the same basic flavors of the stainless steel but some slight nuances. The 2023 Barrel Aged Sauvignon Blanc picked up besides texture qualities, it also mellowed out or tempered the stronger notes of the grapefruit and citrus. The aging also provided a secondary aroma and herbaceous flavors not found in the stainless steel. Also present was more lemon grass and a tinge of vanilla on the finish which was so refreshing and contrasting to the citrus qualities. The wine ends up being refreshing, high in acidity, complex and creamy. This is precisely the qualitative difference Rhonda Wood was striving to make showcasing the barrel aging offering. The release price is set at $40/bottle and is 13.6% alcohol with only 135 cases being produced.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a lemon garlic shrimp pasta. The ingredients included whole wheat thin spaghetti, unsalted butter, olive oil, minced garlic, crushed red pepper flakes, large shrimp, oregano, baby spinach, parmesan cheese, chopped parsley and lemon juice. Accompanied by a warm wilted spinach salad with bits of thick cut peppered bacon, red onion slices, sautéed mushrooms, red wine vinegar, Dijon mustard and a scosche of bacon grease. Also prepared was an artichoke. The meal was divine with some of my favorite foods. Add the barrel aged Sauvignon Blanc with its citrus qualities and thick viscosity, it was a heavenly meal and one of the better food and wine pairings.
On a personal note, I previously stated her Sauvignon Blanc made my Best Wines of year tasted, I may have to decide which of the two are preferred. In reality they are both delicious and pending on the food pairing, will choose one or the other to have with the meal.
Sláinte,
Michael
2021 Wood Family Vineyards “Especial” Cabernet Sauvignon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
Photo from Wood Family Vineyards Website
I have written many stories on Wood Family Vineyards and will direct you to click on the links to find out more about this prominent winemaker. Located in eastern Livermore Valley, Rhonda Wood owner & winemaker, has been producing award winning wines for over two decades at Wood Family Vineyards. You can read more on her background from airline pilot to award winning winemaker at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2016/02/10/wood-family-vineyards-2
and
Here is just a “partial listing” of her current winning wines:
- 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon “Clone 30” – Double Gold – San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
- 2021 Cabernet Franc – Double Gold – San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition; Double Gold 5th International Cabernet Franc Competition 2024
- 2021 Malbec – Double Gold – San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
- 2021 “El Loco Rojo” Bordeaux Red Blend – Double Gold – San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
- 2022 “Para Mas Amigas” Chardonnay – Gold – San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
- 2021 “The Captain” Bordeaux Red Blend – Double Gold – San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
- 2023 “Pink Pearl” Rosé – Double Gold – San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
- 2022 “Pink Pearl” Rose – Best of Class – SF Chronicle Wine Competition
- 2021 Albariño – Best of Class – SF Chronicle Wine Competition
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First on the eyes a lush purple with the edges leaning toward maroon. A bit “bashful” when first opening the bottle on the nose, but after a bit, violets and cherry burst forth as dominant aromas. Showing medium to full body swirling in the glass. On the palate ripe sweet cherries swelled up in the mouth like a tsunami, coating all the taste buds. Secondary flavors of black pepper and cherry compote rounded out the experience. On the finish refined and soft tannins completed the tasting. More below but this wine is suitable for both a standalone drinking and food pairing.
Using only 100% Cabernet Sauvignon one gets to appreciate the grape in its “nakedness”. Many of Wood Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon and “Bordeaux style blends” augment the flavor profile with small percentages of other varietals to bring forth aspects of Cabernet Sauvignon. Here Rhonda uses 80% of Cabernet Sauvignon from Thompson Ranch (clone 337) and 20% from One Oak Vineyard (clone 80), both from Livermore, California.
This wine is 13.7% alcohol and only 140 cases were produced. Aged for 30 months in oak barrels. When released (April 28th, 2024) it will sell for $60/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a seared and BBQ’ed filet mignon at 1450 degrees. Charred on the outside and served medium rare with two dollops of Roquefort/chive/butter. Accompanied by a twice baked Russet potato with cheese and topped off with chives. Also some fresh steamed broccoli completed the meal. The “Especial” while soft tannins, provided enough boldness to engulf the steak. What was especially great with this pairing was that the strong cherry flavor enveloped the seared and charred outside of the steak providing a delightful tasting.
Sláinte,
Michael
2021 LXV Wines “The Tempo”, Reflecting the Bordeaux Right Bank
The Winery
Photo from LXV Wines Website
A unique experience from a unique culture to the wine industry. Neeta Mittal is the owner of LXV Wines. It started in India in a village south of Mumbai, where her mother lives and frequently visits the spice market to find fragment herbs for Tandoori Masala. The goal of Neeta is unconventional in that her goal is to open up as she states “the restrained jargon of pH and acidity” to flavors and senses. The LXV Wine experience at the tasting room in Paso Robles was named to the Top 10 by USA Today. The end goal is to create at their tasting room “a movement that inspires and heightens moments, and that transcends the personal, business and community”. Lofty goals for sure and she is obtaining them often. I was privileged to enjoy a home cooked meal a few times with their various Cabernet Franc wines, and the creativity and uniqueness was far beyond any typical food and wine pairing.
Just as unique was how they found Paso Robles! Her husband Kunal and she on a flight wanted to land at Oceano’s county airport, but being fogged in, they detoured and landed at Paso Robles. They immediately made the most of this unexpected arrival and connected with the people of Paso Robles. The land also reminded them of India.
They hired consulting winemaker Jeff Strekas with his background from Napa and Bordeaux style of wine making that was a match for Neeta and Kunal. Jeff’s creativity and willingness to experiment in new varietals that Neeta enjoys has proven excellent. Additionally Jeff has adapted to Kunal in his love for Cabernet Franc. The vineyards are situated mostly around Paso Robles on some of the most pristinely manicured and hand selected vineyards.
The tasting room just off the main square in downtown Paso Robles has three separate areas to taste their exquisite wines- the main tasting lounge, the Cellar room and the outdoor patio. At each location, besides the wine, flavor samples are available with simply exotic spices and aromas. For example Irish Monk – dulse flakes, miso, pink peppers, amchur, cardamom and black vanilla. Another is Chai Garm Chai – black tea, tulsi, green & black caardamon, star anise, cloves, fennel, rose petals. Currently seven other tastings are available with various wines.
Today they offer besides a variety of “Bordeaux influenced wines” and others like Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Syrah and many more!
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine right from the beginning made my Best Wines tasted in the year (list out every December). It is comprised of 59% Cabernet Franc and 41% Merlot. The Cabernet Franc is a combination of 50% Plummer Vineyard (Paso Robles AVA) and 9% Portico Hills Vineyard (Los Alamos/Santa Barbera AVA). The 41% Merlot comes from Santa Ynez from the Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara AVA. “The Tempo” is the inspiration of Kunal and his love for the right Bank of Bordeaux. The balance of weight and expression are paramount in the composition of the wine.
First on the eyes, the wine with its radiant red hue shows the concentration and power. On the nose a complete assemblage of black and red cherries, cedar along with floral notes proclaim something special is about to begin. Once on the palate, the juices of blackberries and cherries swell up to present a wonderment of flavors. The finish is as smooth and calm as a still mountain lake.
Only 300 cases were produced and on the website it shows a price of $78/bottle. It received a Gold Medal at the 5th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition in the Blend Division.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
With some recent cooler weather, nothing better than comfort food. This evening called for a jalapeño meatloaf. Ingredients included ground beef, panko breadcrumbs, egg, minced jalapeño peppers, minced garlic, shredded sharp cheddar cheese and tomato sauce. The topping was a combination of tomato sauce, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, honey and chill powder. Accompanied by a half of a Russet baked potato and artichoke, this hit the spot! Served with minced jalapeño on top of the slice of meatloaf. The LXV “The Tempo” with its fruit surrounded this spicy meatloaf to perfection. An excellent food and wine pairing.
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Walter Hansel Family Pinot Noir, Cahill Lane Vineyard
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
Pinot Noir is an elusive grape and difficult to make into a wonderful wine. A good friend of mine always stated “Pinot Noir is either wonderfully delicious or absolutely skunky bad”. I thought he might be overstating his affection or hatred of the wine, but I have grown to appreciate his position. After trying so many Pinot Noir wines, there are very few in the cellar, even though I vehemently seek to find a solid one! While I have found a few in the “stratosphere pricing range”, it is difficult to find one in the more every day category.
I recall a similar conversation with another friend from Scotland, who helped me find a solid whisky. He mentioned that a typical Scotch drinker finds just one or two that “hit the mark” and stay with it. Many years ago after a golf match, we tried sips of 12-14 Scottish whiskies. Finally found just one and I have not wavered since discovering my seldom enjoyed new drink from Scotland, but when we do meet up, we are very good friends!
Walter Hansel planted the estate’s original 250 vines in 1978. Today, Walter’s son, Stephen has taken over pursuing and producing Burgundian styled Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines from the Russian River Valley. I have never visited them but when I do, I will provide more details on the winery.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2019 Walter Hansel Pinot Noir, Cahill Lane Vineyard hit a bullseye with my palate profile for Pinot Noir. Not an earth shaker in the $100 and up range, but a solid aromatic and tasteful Pinot Noir in the mid $40’s. A big shout out and thanks to my friend Jim Denham of The Wine Steward in Pleasanton for this recommendation. I have had a few of Walter Hansel Chardonnay’s in the past and was never disappointed and now enjoying their Pinot Noir.
The 2019 Walter Hansel Pinot Noir, Cahill Lane Vineyard is a very solid wine. I have often compared the contrast between Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. Cabernet Sauvignon being the 300+ pound defensive lineman in football (bold, heavy and strong) versus a Pinot Noir with the grace and finesse of a world class ballerina (light, airy and graceful). When I poured the wine into the glass, I was wondering which direction this would take. First on the eyes, a lovely purplish color, semi-translucent in depth of color (picture does not show this). On the nose aromas of blooming roses and strawberries. On the palate, fresh firm strawberries and red cherries surround the mouth as the primary flavors. Secondary and slightly hidden scents of vanilla and clove are present. The finish is a mild and comfortable acidity as it danced down the throat with a brightness. The current vintage is 2021 and is listed at $46/bottle on their website.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine was specifically selected for tonight’s BBQ’d dinner to go with a dry rubbed baked pork tenderloin. This was a slightly different recipe that is mellower than a previous one. The dry rub included chili powder, brown sugar, dried oregano, paprika, onion powder, garlic powder, Italian seasoning, fine sea salt, pepper and a little extra virgin olive oil. The slices of pork tenderloin each provided ample flavors to assimilate this refreshing and exquisite wine without overpowering it. The meal was accompanied by a baked Yukon Gold potato and fresh garden salad (not shown). The slices of pork tenderloin were served with Stewart and Jasper Cherry Pepper sauce. A very good food and wine pairing.
Sláinte,
Michael
The 5th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition and Celebration concluded with a Gourmet Dinner, featuring select Cabernet Franc Wines
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The third and final event for the 5th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition and Celebration was a gourmet dinner featuring Cabernet Franc wines from around California. It was held at The Golf Club at Copper Valley clubhouse on Saturday April 13th, 2024. Featured Cabernet Franc wines were paired with specifically chosen foods to complement and enhance the experience. Each wine was entirely different, unique and represented the terroir from their respective regions. The wines will be described in more detail with each dish further below.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The dinner started off with a brief overview of Cabernet Franc role in the wine market, a profile be it a warm or cool climate, pricing trends per ton for Cabernet Franc, what regions/geography Cabernet Franc is grown, food pairings, the emergence as Cabernet Franc as a stone alone variety, etc.
Photo Courtesy of Susan Sherrill
Guests were treated to a “teaser” of Shrimp Pattie with Aioli. This was an outstanding way to begin the evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The first plate was a Strawberry Arugula Salad with feta cheese and balsamic vinaigrette. This was paired with a Cabernet Franc from Paso Robles, California the J. Lohr Cuvée St. E. It is inspired by the Grand Cru wines of St. Émilion from the Right Bank of Bordeaux. These memorable wines are composed primarily from Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with accenting touches of the other Bordeaux red varietals. At J. Lohr they are given the freedom to emulate these great wines without the restrictions of varietal percentages, instead keenly focusing on the texture and complexity of the blend that nature delivers with each vintage. Winemakers’ commented that J. Lohr Cuvée St. E captures the savory side of the Bordeaux varieties. Sophisticated blueberry and raspberry compote aromas mingle with wild sage, cacao nib, and espresso. On the palate, fresh plum and black cherry flavors wrap around a dusty tannin core leaving a long, pleasing finish. Their Cuvée St. E in the 4th Annual Competition won Double Gold and Best of Show! In 2024, this wine won Gold Medals from both the Professional & People’s Choice Judges.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
Next up was the Wild Mushroom Raviolo with truffle butter and toasted hazelnuts, paired with a 2021 Selin Cellars Cabernet Franc from Windsor, California. Winemaker Peter Selin simply describes it as “luscious and intense, yet fruit forward”. Adding to it I would note on the eyes the immense depth and dark coloring is awesome. On the nose, a soft violet fragrance and dark fruit waft upward into the olfactory senses. On the palate a delightful and surprisingly far reaching range of bold blackberry, almost jammy but not sweet, coupled with new soft leather and mild pipe tobacco greeted and coated the mouth. Absent was the strong pyrazine characteristic often found in Cabernet Franc wines. Another surprise then hit you and it was the tannins and acidity coating the mouth from tooth to tooth to the roof of the mouth. Not typical of a Cabernet Franc to have such griping tannins, but not offensive as they were kept in check with the beautiful caressing fruit. The finish was extremely long lasting with a minerality/earthiness beckoning yet another sip. The wine is aged 18 months in a combination of 100% new French and Hungarian barrels. This wine won Best of Class in the 4th Cabernet Franc Wine Competition from both the Professional & People’s Choice Judges. Additionally in the 5th Annual Cabernet Franc Competition it won Double Gold from the Professional Judges. They also won Best of Class and Double Gold from the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
An Intermezzo of lemon Sorbetto was served to cleanse the palate that was light and refreshing.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The third plate presented was the Wagyu Filet au Poivre prepared with butter, cognac, veal stock and grilled asparagus. This was paired with the 2018 Shale Canyon Cabernet Franc from vineyards in Arroyo Seco, located in Monterey County. Keith Prader is the winemaker and mentioned it is always a fan favorite in the tasting room. Their 2017 vintage at the 2023 4th Annual Cabernet Franc Competition won Best of Class & Show from the Professional Judges. At the 5th Annual Competition their 2018 vintage won a Gold Medal from the People’s Choice Judges. Keith describes his wine as having aromas of dark fruit, slight oak and a touch of floral notes. A complex wine with flavors of dark cherry, dark berry and cassis. A finish of vanilla with a hint of leather and medium firm tannins. I would add that on the finish both soft and mild pipe tobacco and velvety tannins are present. A limited number of cases were produced (less than 200).
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The fourth and final dish was the dessert. It was a Chocolate Truffle Mousse consisting of chocolate sponge base topped with rich chocolate mousse and dusted with cocoa powder. This was paired with Cuda Ridge Wines 2019 Mélange d’ Amis Reserve from Livermore California. Larry Dino, both winemaker and owner, crafted this Saint-Emilion style blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot to have soft fruit of strawberry and raspberry with hints of chocolate, cinnamon, red fruits and a delightful balance. It is aged in French oak for 17 months. This vintage in the 4th Cabernet Franc Competition won a Gold Medal from the Professional Judges and Double Gold from the People’s Choice Judges as well as Best of Class! Then at the 2021 San Francisco Wine Competition it was awarded a Gold Medal. This provided a great concluding pairing to the evening meal.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Executive Chef Jaime Alderete showcased his culinary skills to perfection. The attendees enjoyed the food and wine pairing immensely as exhibited on the smiling faces!
Photos ©Michael Kelly
Food and Beverage Manager Edwarda Alderete worked with her staff to set up the room and provided an elegant touch to each table setting. The wonderful wait staff was prompt and attentive to a very loud room all night long.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.coppervalleygolf.com/homepage/current-operations
https://www.coppervalleygolf.com
2019 Ehret Family Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Reserve – Quality Wine with a Quality Meal
The Winery
Picture from Ehret Family Winery Website
The Ehret Family Winery owners are Pierre and Susan Ehret with their three children Alex, Christian and Isabella. They established the vineyard and started producing grapes in 1996 at the Bavarian Lion Vineyards. It is one of the largest estates in Knights Valley consisting of 1800 acres of both hillside and valley floor terrain. Currently 500 acres are planted in vineyards allowing the balance to provide an ecosystem for plants and birdlife to dwell. From 1996 they sold their fruit to some of the more well-known wineries throughout Napa and Sonoma counties. In 2005, they selected the highest quality grapes and started their family brand, Ehret Family Winery. Today they produce various Cabernet Sauvignon’s, Red Blends, Zinfandel, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc wines. Their tasting room is located in Healdsburg at 422 Healdsburg Ave and appointments are required.
Map courtesy from Vintroux https://vineyardandwinerysales.com/
Knights Valley is located in Northern Sonoma County between Alexander Valley and over the Napa Valley border next to Calistoga.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine from their Hillside site comes from the highest elevation blocks on their estate.
First on the eyes, this dark red, almost black wine startled me on the pour! It was followed by a heavy weight viscosity oozing with aromas. On the nose, black and red fruits of blackberry and raspberry swirled about to provide an enticing aroma. On the palate, the fruits raised like a standing ovation of applause with its flavors. Full body with the intensity of fruit counterbalanced with sweet vanilla pipe tobacco and toasted oak. The finish was unique because on the sip the tannins were smooth and velvety, but on the finish they raised up like a wild stallion, beautifully strong and bold. One of the best wines tasted this year!
I don’t read the winemaker’s notes ahead of time wanting to draw my own conclusions. What I did not know when reading the notes on their 2019, was the pedigree of this opulent wine.
Their 2019 received 98 points & Best of Class at the American Fine Wine Competition and 96 points & Double Gold at the Sunset Magazine International Wine Competition and at the San Francisco Chronicle it was awarded Double Gold. The wine is 15.5% alcohol and the website for their 2019 showed it at $125/bottle. This wine reminded me of many of the better mountain Cabernet Sauvignon’s in Napa like Outpost, O’Shaughnessy, Barnett, Arkenstone, Robert Craig, Viader, etc.
The wine consists of 79.99% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.32% Merlot, 6.47% Cabernet Franc, 4.62% Petit Verdot and .6% of Malbec. It is aged for 18 months in 86% new French oak barrels and only 87 cases were produced. It is listed at $125/bottle and is 15.5% alcohol.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Brought this wine to a dinner hosted by our friends Steve and Darlene Besst. The food pairing this evening was lasagna with homemade Bolognese sauce. The sauce was absolutely to die for! It consisted of olive oil, diced bacon, chopped onion, chopped celery, chopped carrot, minced garlic cloves, fresh thyme, ground veal, ground pork, red wine, bay leaves and tomato puree. Served with roasted halved Brussel sprouts with bacon and balsamic glaze, Cesar salad with homemade dressing with freshly grated Parmesan cheese and toasted garlic sourdough bread. An excellent and gourmet meal with a fantastic wine worthy of Andre Simon’s quote above.
Before, during and after the meal some other exquisite wines were enjoyed.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A wonderful meal and wine pairing that will be remember indefinitely.
Sláinte,
Michael
Results of the World’s Largest, 5th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition dedicated exclusively to Cabernet Franc Wine
Not all the bottles of competition shown (Photo ©Michael Kelly)
The 5th Annual Cabernet Franc Wine Competition was held yesterday on April 3rd, 2024 at the Copper Valley Golf Club Clubhouse. The format for the blind competition utilizes the Danish system, where the wines are “bagged and tagged with coded numbers”. There were four tables of wine judges (2 tables of Professional Judges and 2 tables People’s Choice Judges) voting on medal designation, Best of Category, Best of Show and Grand Sweepstakes. If not all agree on the medal, which seldom happens, then a lively discussion going over the key characteristics of the specific wine is debated to reach a consensus award by each group of judges.
In total there were 8 classifications by region or Cabernet Franc wine designation. The Regional awards were broken down by: Eastern, Central, Northwest, Southwest, California and International. For California there were five price point categories. There were also two additional categories for Specialty Cabernet Franc Blanc, sparkling, Rose, etc. and Blends having a minimum of 50% Cabernet Franc grapes. In total 91 wines entered the competition. The event started at 9:15 am and went non-stop, concluding at 2:30 pm with a luncheon for the judges and volunteers.
Two of the four tables of judges (Photos courtesy of Susan Sherrill)
The Grand Sweepstakes winner from the Professional Judges was LXV Wines located in Paso Robles and grapes from the Santa Barbera AVA. Made in the “Chinon style” with low oak treatment.
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
The Grand Sweepstakes winner from the People’s Choice Judges was Brick Barn Wine Estate from Buellton, California. 100% Cabernet Franc and unique with only four barrels being produced with aging in Russian oak barrels.
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Detail stories on the Grand Sweepstakes winners and Best of Class winner will be forthcoming in the coming weeks. Below are the listing for Best of Class and Medal Awards (just showing Gold & Silver) for the Cabernet Franc, Specialty and Blend.
PROFESSIONAL JUDGES RESULTS:
Eastern USA Division:
Best of Class: Fjord Vineyard from Marlboro, NY. The grapes come from sustainably farmed vineyard in the Hudson Valley AVA, bottled unfined and unfiltered, spontaneous fermented. This was their first time entering the competition and they also received an award of Double Gold.
Medal Awards:
Pearmund Cellars – Gold (2020)
Pearmund Cellars – Silver (2021)
Veritas Vineyard – Silver (2014)
Central USA Division:
Best of Show: 2020 Vermilion Valley Vineyards located in Wakeman, Ohio from the Lake Erie AVA. The grapes coming from their estate . This was their first time entering the competition.
Northwest USA Division:
Best of Show: Camaraderie Cellars located in Port Angeles, Washington with grapes from the Yakima Valley AVA. They also won Gold Medal.
Medal Awards:
Quady North Winery – Silver (Mae’s Vineyard)
Quady North Winery – Silver (Applegate Vineyard)
Spangler Vineyards & Winery – Silver (2019)
Southwest USA Division:
Best of Show: Vivac Winery located in Dixon, New Mexico from the New Mexico AVA with their 2021 vintage. This Cabernet Franc wine consisted of 10% Syrah & Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Sangiovese.
California USA Division:
Best of California Division overall: LXV Best of Class
Best of Category 1 ($30 and below):
Best of Category: Ironstone Vineyards – Gold (2021 from Murphys, using Lodi grapes with 12% Merlot & 3% Syrah)
Medal Awards:
Madrone Vineyards – Silver (2019 from Camino, using 3.5% Malbec, 7.3% Merlot, 3.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot)
Best of Category 2 ($31 to $50):
Best of Category: Cuda Ridge Wines Double Gold (2021 from Livermore, using Livermore Valley grapes with 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot & 2% Petit Verdot)
Medal Awards:
McKenzie-Mueller – Double Gold
Lava Cap – Double Gold
Scenic Valley Ranch – Double Gold
Dracaena Wines – Double Gold
L’Autre Cote – Double Gold
L & M Vineyard – Gold (2021)
Absolution Cellars – Silver
Crystal Basin Cellars – Silver
Kautz & Kramer Wines – Silver
Shale Canyon Wines – Silver
Darcie Kent Estate Winery – Silver
Autry Cellars – Silver
3 Steves Winery – Silver
Rosa Fierro Cellars – Silver
Garre Vineyards & Winery – Silver
Kenefick Ranch Vineyards & Winery – Silver
J. Lohr Vineyards & Winery – Silver
Bumgarner Winery & Vineyards – Silver
Ancient Peaks Winery – Silver
Villa Vallecito Vineyards – Silver
Mineral Wines – Silver
Val du Vino Winery – Silver
Best of Category 3 ($51 to $75):
Best of Category: L’Autre Cote – Double Gold, 2021 100% Cabernet Franc 2021 from Ghielmetti Vineyard.
Medal Awards:
Selin Cellars – Double Gold (2021)
Dunning Vineyards – Double Gold
J. Lohr Vineyards & Winery – Gold
Titus Vineyards – Gold
Selin Cellars – Silver (2022)
Cellar 13 Winery – Silver (2019)
Cellar 13 Winery – Silver (2021)
Donati Family Vineyard – Silver
Le Vigne Winery – Silver
AvinoDos Wines – Silver
Rodrigue Molyneaux Winery – Silver
Best of Category 4 ($76 to $100):
Best of Category: LXV Wine located in Paso Robles and grapes from the Santa Barbera AVA. Made in the “Chinon style” with low oak treatment.
Medal Awards:
PureCru – Gold
Vinoce – Silver
Best of Category 5 ($100 & up):
Best of Category: Brick Barn Wine Estate from Buellton, California. 100% Cabernet Franc and unique with only four barrels being produced with aging in Russian oak barrels. They also received an award of Double Gold.
Medal Awards:
Palazzo Wine – Double Gold
Middle Oak Wines – Silver
Mountain Terraces Winery & Vineyard – Silver
L’Autre Cote – Silver
Specialty Category:
Best of Show: Quady North Winery from Jacksonville, Oregon using grapes from Applegate AVA in southern Oregon. Extended Tirage and using Method Rose. This was the first year they entered the competition.
Cabernet Franc Blends (being a minimum of 50% Cabernet Franc grapes)
Best of Show: Justin Vineyards for their 2021 blend of 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Merlot using grapes from Paso Robles AVA. They also won Double Gold award for this wine.
Medal Awards:
LXV Wine– Gold
Cuda Ridge– Silver
Absolution Cellars – Silver (O’Dina blend)
PureCru – Silver
International Division:
Best of Show: Whalehaven Winery located in the city of Somerset West in South Africa won the International Division.
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PEOPLE’S CHOICE JUDGES RESULTS:
Eastern USA Division:
Best of Class: Benmarl Winery for their 2022 vintage from Marlboro, New York and using grapes from the Hudson Valley AVA. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. They also won an award of Double Gold
Medal Awards:
Veritas Vineyard – Gold (2017)
Pearmund Cellars – Silver (2020)
Veritas – Silver (2014)
Veritas Vineyard – Silver (Reserve)
Fjord Vineyard – Silver
Covert – Silver (2021)
Benmarl Winery – Silver (New York AVA)
Covert – Silver (2020)
Central USA Division:
Best of Show: Silver Crest Cellars located in Madison, Ohio for their 2018 Cabernet Franc. The grapes come from the Grand River Valley AVA.
Northwest USA Division:
Best of Show: Spangler Vineyards and Winery located in Roseburg, Oregon for their 2019 vintage. The grapes come from the Southern Oregon AVA and they also won an award of Double Gold.
Medal Awards:
Quady North Winery – Double Gold (Mae’s Vineyard)
Quady North Winery – Gold (Applegate Vineyard)
Wautoma Springs – Silver
Terra Vina Wines – Silver
Southwest USA Division:
Best of Show: Callaghan Vineyards located in Elgin, Arizona and using grapes from the Sonoita AVA with their 2019 vintage.
Medal Awards:
Bodega Pierce – Silver
Vivac Winery – Silver
California USA Division:
Best of California Division overall: Brick Barn Wine Estate from Buellton, California. 100% Cabernet Franc and unique with only four barrels being produced with aging in Russian oak barrels. They also received an award of Double Gold.
Best of Category 1 ($30 and below):
Best of Category: Boeger Winery with their 2020 vintage winning an award of Double Gold.
Medal Awards:
Madrone Vineyards – Silver
Rucksack Cellars – Silver
Ironstone Vineyards – Silver
Best of Category 2 ($31 to $50):
Best of Category: L & M Vineyard from Gilroy with their 2020 Reserve Cabernet Franc. Using grapes from San Ysidro district. They received an award of Double Gold and this was their first time entering the competition.
Medal Awards:
Wood Family Vineyards – Double Gold
Darcie Kent – Double Gold
Absolution Cellars – Gold
Shale Canyon Wines – Gold
3 Steves Winery – Gold
Rosa Fierro Cellars – Gold
J. Lohr Vineyards & Winery – Gold
Bumgarner Winery & Vineyards – Gold
Crystal Basin Cellars – Silver
Cuda Ridge Wines – Silver
Kautz & Kramer Wines – Silver
Dracaena Wines – Silver
L & M Vineyard – Silver (2020, regular)
L’Autre Cote – Silver (commercial)
McKenzie-Mueller – Silver
Garre Vineyards & Winery – Silver
Kenefick Ranch Vineyards & Winery – Silver
Ancient Peaks Winery – Silver
Lava Cap – Silver
Scenic Valley Ranch – Silver
Villa Vallecito Vineyards – Silver
Mineral Wines – Silver
Best of Category 3 ($51 to $75):
Best of Category: Dancing Fox Winery located in Lodi with their 2020 vintage from the Clements Hills sub-Appellation. They also won an award of Double Gold and was their first time entering the competition.
Medal Awards:
Donati Family – Double Gold
Selin Cellars – Gold (2021)
J. Lohr Vineyards & Winery – Gold
L’Autre Cote – Gold
Cellar 13 – Silver (2019)
Cellar 13 – Silver (2021)
Le Vigne – Silver
Selin Cellars – Silver (2022)
AvinoDos Winery – Silver
Titus Vineyards – Silver
Best of Category 4 ($76 to $100):
Best of Category: pureCru Winery located in Napa for their 2019 Reserve Cabernet Franc vintage. They also won an award of Double Gold.
Medal Awards:
LXV Wines– Double Gold
Vinoce – Silver
Best of Category 5 ($100 & up):
Best of Category: Brick Barn Wine Estate from Buellton, California. 100% Cabernet Franc and unique with only four barrels being produced with aging in Russian oak barrels. They also received an award of Double Gold.
Medal Awards:
Mountain Terraces Winery & Vineyard – Gold
Palazzo Wine – Silver
Middle Oak Wines – Silver
L’Autre Cote – Silver
Specialty Category:
Best of Show: Quady North Winery from Jacksonville, Oregon using grapes from Applegate AVA in southern Oregon. Extended Tirage and using Method Rose. This was the first year they entered the competition.
Cabernet Franc Blends (being a minimum of 50% Cabernet Franc grapes)
Best of Show: pureCru for their 2021 blend of 50% Cabernet Franc and 50% Merlot .
Medal Awards:
LXV Wine– Gold
Cuda Ridge– Silver
Absolution Cellars – Silver (O’Dina blend)
Justin Vineyards – Silver
International Division:
Best of Show: Whalehaven Winery located in the city of Somerset West in South Africa won the International Division.
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A very special thank you to both sets of judges and volunteers without which this event could not have happened!
(Professional Judges, left to right: Tom Bender, Tana Cole, Debi Miller, Fran Cunniffe and Mike Dunne)
(People’s Choice Judges, left to right: Robert Kent, Holger Hornisch, Candy Strubbe, Peter Singh, Gary Miller and Donna laquinto)
No pictures of the volunteers who literally were on their feet all day running wine! A big hearty thank you!
Susan Kelly
Celia Miller
Ansuiya Singh
Mary Heaton
Susan Sherril
and to Jeff Heaton who helped with the 6:30 am set up!
Note: Two other events will be held shortly, the first being the Cabernet Franc Wine Stroll It will be held on April 13th, at The Golf Club of Copper Valley featuring the previous year’s winners pouring their Cabernet Franc and many others wines. Call 209-783-9518 for reservations. The second event is a Gourmet Dinner prepared by Verona18 show casing award winning Cabernet Franc wines from Cienega Valley, Paso Robles, Livermore Valley and Sonoma Valley (SOLD OUT).
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Iron Hub Winery “Clockspring” Zinfandel – A Wonderful Surprise Hidden Inside!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
Pictures from Iron Hub Wines Website
The winery was founded by Tom Jones from Lava Cap Winery fame in the Apple Hill area near Placerville. Tom completed his masters degree in Viticulture & Enology from UC Davis, and for almost 30 years developed award-winning wines. Tom and his wife Beth’s new endeavor began in 2014 with the purchase of the 33 acre property that had been known as Amador Foothill Winery. Having control of the grapes from vineyard to bottle was key in his quest for quality control with 17 acres planted in vines.
The name of the winery came about from Tom’s mountain sojourns in the area. On an adventure he discovered an antique, hand-forged wagon wheel hub in a remote area. Thus this small winery on Steiner Road drew a parallel with his goal of making small lot artisan wines similar to the craftsmanship of the “iron hub” he found on a walk. The beautiful new tasting room was opened in December 2017.
Pictures from Iron Hub Wines Website
Spencer, their son, following in his father’s footsteps by also graduating from UC Davis with a masters degree from the Department of Viticulture and Enology, is the winery’s Assistant winemaker. Today, they form a dynamic father-son winemaking team. Tom and Spencer enjoy and demand a hands-on approach to every aspect of the winemaking process, from tending the grapes in the estate vineyards to carefully crafting both red and white wines. They recently added 10 acres managing the Spanish Creek site they are leasing. Having now 27 acres of “estate property” to manage is keeping them very busy. Tom has stated that “Our estate affords me creative control from the vine to the bottle”
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
While the title may state a “wonderful surprise” it really was not. On my last visit to Iron Hub Winery, I was taken back at that time with the Iron Hub “Clockspring” Zinfandel. I wrote I would be doing a follow up story on it after purchasing a few bottles.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
While in the picture below it looks dark and foreboding, it was more of a refreshing, light, airy and graceful Zinfandel.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The picture below shows the real color of a light purple / red brick. On the eyes semi-translucent and not like a homemade Italian Zinfandel. Yet even with being “light” in color this Zinfandel showed enough fruit to show its true heritage.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
On the nose dominant aroma of blackberry and secondary hints of light oak and vanilla. On the palate, beautifully intense flavors of blackberry preserves and an arsenal of what I refer to as Christmas spices of nutmeg, cinnamon and clove and completed with pepper. This light color wine was a Trojan horse unleashing its army of flavors on the finish with jagged tannins providing a long and beckoning one more sip.
Tom Jones handpicked the grapes from the Clockspring vineyard and then cold soaked for several hours to add in-depth aroma to the wine. Blended into this Zinfandel was 8% Sangiovese and 2% Mourvèdre. Aged for 15 months in 30% new French oak barrels and the balance being neutral. The wine is listed for $36/bottle with only 280 cases produced. The grapes are from the organic Clockspring vineyard and comes in at 14.4% alcohol.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The sun was shining after days of inclement weather, so pulled this wine to have with a BBQ’d sausage. It was a pork sausage with sun dried tomatoes, basil and mozzarella cheese. Served with a spicy potato salad for a simple but filling meal. The Clockspring Zinfandel with its own “cooling spices” and fruit was perfectly made for the meal.
This wine will make my annual Best Wines tasting for 2024! We are heading back in a couple weeks to pick up some additional bottles!
Sláinte,
Michael
2020 Vermilion Valley Vineyards Cabernet Franc, With An Unusually Food Pairing
The Winery
Picture from Vermilion Valley Vineyards
Had an exchange with Joe Juniper about entering the 5th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition. His concern was that the Ohio region/his winery, made wine more in the Chinon style and would not be fairly evaluated against California wines. I explained that each region is evaluated on their own terroir and not against other regions. He not only entered the competition but sent me a bottle of his 2020 Cabernet Franc to try. He was spot on with his lighter/Chinon style Cabernet Franc (see below under The Wine section).
Recently did several stories on Vermilion Valley Vineyards and The Winerie at Sandusky (both labels are the same ownership and winemaker). The Vermilion Valley story was on how delicious their Pinot Noir and who knew the quality of Pinot Noir could be grown in Ohio.
The second story was on a wine seldom seen in California and many have never tasted, Lemberger wine.
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2024/03/10/the-winerie-at-sandusky-2021-lemberger-wine
Vermilion Valley Vineyards has 100 planted acres in four different locations. With micro climates, this allows all his wines to be 100% estate grown. What is interesting about Ohio is that some 370 wineries exist but only 900 acres of grapes are planted! Doing some simple math, removing the five largest vineyards in the state, you are left with each winery having a one acre parcel! Thus many wineries in Ohio rely on importing juice from various areas like the Central Valley of California and Washington. That is one of many unique characteristics of Vermilion Valley Vineyards and their estate wines.
Currently they produce the following red wines: Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Dorsa, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lemberger, Chambourcin, Dornfelder, Nebbiolo, Malbec, Pinotage and Merlot. Ditto for their white wines producing: Muscat Ottonel, Riesling. Gruner Veltliner, Müller-Thurgau, Traminette, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Valvin Muscat, Ribola Gialla, Petit Manseng, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Albariño, Pinot Blanc and Arneis. That is a wide variety of wines and all estate grown!
You can read their webpage about their high level of sustainability incorporating land use and their buildings. Link at the bottom of the page
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
While this picture is nice, it doesn’t show the “lighter character of the wine” compared to California. The Chinon style of Cabernet Franc typically is one of dry, strong notes of roses, fruity, possesses structured tannins and can provide hints of pencil shavings and black berries.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Taking a picture from above the glass shows the semi-transparent quality of the wine, yet still with panache and liveliness. On the eyes, the wine’s color is violet and crisp. On the nose the wine provides strong floral notes and has medium viscosity. On the palate refreshing blueberry with a tinge of blackberry. Eloquent and refined are the two best words to describe this wine. On the finish, a complex and well-structured tannins reminds one of its pedigree. Soft vegetable notes and pyrazine flavors were note, but not prominent. The 2020 Vermilion Valley Vineyards goes for $28 and is far less expensive than a trip to the Chinon region in France!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Typical pairing with Cabernet Franc are more likely to be beef, pork, pasta and cured meats, this evening it was paired with a baked salsa chicken dish. Not a normal pairing but experimenting is the spice of life! Once of my favorite quotes is that “Adventure may hurt you, but monotony will kill you” (Anonymous). This Cabernet Franc with mild tannins engulfed the acidity in the tomatoes and its herbal qualities blended in with the vegetable spices. Butterflied two chicken breasts, added Cayenne pepper, garlic and baked with fresh Pico d Gallo, yellow corn and minced green chilies on top of them. This meal provided a beautiful flavored chicken and the wine surprisingly provided the refreshment and flavors in its lighter style to complement the meal. Served with corn surrounding the chicken. A very good food and wine pairing.
While hosting the blind Cabernet Franc Wine Competition, I am not a judge but hoping Vermilion Valley Vineyards does well.
Sláinte,
Michael
California Wines & Wineries 