Cabernet Franc
Bodega Pierce Visit at Willcox AVA
This was the last stop on my three-day visit to the Willcox AVA district. While the last stop, it was the first one recommended by friends in Mesa to visit but timing worked out to be the last stop. Met with Dan and Barbara Pierce who are a fountain of knowledge regarding the Willcox bench, water issues and the history of the area.
The vineyard and tasting room in Willcox is at 4511 E Robb Road. Here on their property of 80 acres with 27 acres under vines at 4,200 feet elevation they produce 18 varietals. They include Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Sangiovese, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Malvasia Bianca, Muscat of Alexandria, Zinfandel and Graciano. While knowing of their Cabernet Franc, which they have entered the annual International Cabernet Franc Competition, I was taken back by their offerings of varieties.
Photo from Bodega Pierce
They purchased the property in 2011 that was an existing winery with vineyards planted in 2005. They did an extensive rejuvenation and expansion of the vineyard and opened the tasting room in 2014. Currently they are producing approximately 2500 cases a year.
Their other tasting room and the production winery is in Clarkdale, Arizona at 1341 W State Route 89 A, about halfway between Sedona and Prescott Valley. Dan and Barbara’s son, Michael is their winemaker. Michael studied winemaking at UC Davis and Washington State University. Michael has a distinguished pedigree starting out head winemaker at Stronghold Vineyard (2010-2014), Director of Enology (2014-2018) & Director of Viticulture & Enology (2018-2025) at Yavapai College and now is at Yavapai College, University of Arizona adjunct faculty working on a variety of activities regarding commercial horticulture. His background is very extensive as well as being the head winemaker of Bodegas Pierce. His work was acknowledged by Wine Business Monthly in 2020 as Bodega Pierce being named Hot Brands of the year.
Barbara is currently the immediate past president of the Arizona Wine Growers Association and still active in political water right discussions. Dan also is extremely involved in the water rights for Willcox AVA and provided some keen insights into the water perspective.
Willcox AVA Background
The Willcox AVA is the largest in Arizona and encompasses 833 square miles in southern Arizona.
Map from University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
The AVA length ranges from 40 to 45 miles, running north and south and the width averaging between 15 to 25 miles wide east to west. It is a large flat valley (or playa/bench) with an average elevation of most vineyards being 4,200 to almost 5,000 feet elevations. The Willcox Playa is sitting between the Dragoon Mountains to the west reaching 7,500 feet and the Chiricahua with the highest point 8,000 feet and Dos Cabezas Mountains 7,500 feet to the east. The highest mountain peak is in the northeast at 8,100 feet. With the high mountains surrounding the high valley floor, the diurnal temperature swings (daytime to nighttime) can average between 30-40 degrees Fahrenheit. This cooling down feature from the mountain air sinking to the basin, is a hallmark in preserving acidity in the grapes.
The land is a combination of sandy-gravelly, alluvial and volcanic loam soils which are ideal for vineyard sustainability. The Willcox AVA was designated in September 2016. Many indigenous people occupied the land like the Chiricahua Apache’s including the well-known leaders Cochise and Geronimo.
The conversation started out like a few previous ones with other wineries discussing the AMA (Active Management Area) that was designated by the Arizona Department of Water Resources to preserve groundwater supplies, address land subsidence and stop earth fissures caused by over-extraction. The issue for Willcox AVA, that being registering for well water rights as to obtain water, everyone must drill wells to a depth of 420 feet. There is conflict with the valley ranchers who reportedly have an estimated one million to one million and a half head of cattle consuming an extraordinary amount of water. The cattle ranches are “gobbling” up land to increase their ranches and herds. Grape growers in the AVA use a fraction of the water but are strictly regulated. The irrigation freeze (with some wineries grandfathered) prohibits entirely new acreage being planted. Landowners can only irrigate acres there were legally watered between 2019 and 2024. The crux of the issue is that lactating cows consume 25-35 gallons of water per day, beef cows 6-15 gallons per day and bulls require 10-15 gallons per day year-round. Vineyards in the heat of the summer require 5-8 gallons and with a drip system can get by with only 2 gallons a day, being watered 2-3 times a week. With vineyards being dormant in the winter there is a large disparity in consumption with the wineries being shortchanged in this archaic and uneven handed mandated ruling by the government.
Bodega Pierce Wine Tasting
Being caught up in the rich and presently dynamic history of the AVA, we ran out of time to really do any extensive tasting of their wines. I asked Dan and Barbara to pick out three of their favorites as time was running short and only got one picture of three tasted.
The first wine tasted was the 2025 Chardonnay that was surprisingly intriguing and delicious. I had tried a few this visit, but this was distinct and of high quality. I asked Dan what clone they used and he later got back to me stating that their Chardonnay block had clones 04, 76 and 95 planted. I didn’t get the percentage of each clone, but the quality was similar to many Chardonnay’s in California. Clone 4, known as the Wente clone, represents about 80% of the Chardonnay vineyards in California. Upon tasting the wine, all the key characteristics were spot on for the visual, aroma, taste and finish. It received all high marks and rated highly.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dan was especially fond of this 2024 wine which is not a common varietal. The first thing noticed upon the pour was the extremely powerful aromatics from the glass of floral and tropical fruits. This was light to medium viscosity with clarity in the vessel. A great summertime wine with light fruit, salads and light seafood. This grape varietal also goes by the names of Muscat d’ Alexandrie or Gordo Blanco. Again this made all positive marks across the board and rated very high.
The 2023 vintage was selected for tasting. And once again made all high marks for key characteristics and rated very high on my scoring.
Because of the engaging and thoughtful conversation of the visit, wine tasting actually took a back seat. Tasting never should have been secondary but we were caught up in the discussion beyond just their winery including the entire AVA, the industry, the International Cab Franc Competition, judging and many other topics. A return trip is in order and most likely be at their Clarkdale facility.
I would highly recommend stopping at the Willcox AVA tasting room and meeting two knowledgeable wine folks with a passion for not only their wines, but Arizona wines in general. And please allow enough time to enjoy their wines!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
2023 Dracaena Cabernet Franc – The Golden Standard?
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
I have known the owners of Dracaena Wines, Michael & Lori Budd, for ten years and their wines were good at the beginning and simply have morphed over the years to being excellent. Last night pulled a 2023 Dracaena Cabernet Franc to go with our dinner. Could not have been more pleased.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Upon the first sip I knew I was in for a treat. First on the eyes, a beautifully colored ruby and crimson coloring with medium viscosity. On the nose just a faint hint of pyrazines (bell pepper) but mostly fresh raspberry and red cherries with violet and rose petals wafting into the senses. Once in the palate, this dark and inviting elixir provided a symphony of flavors. Dominant was blackberry flavors following closely by a soft and caressing blueberry for a soft and friendly sip. A minimal percentage of oak and tannins were noticeable while the wine playfully engulfed the mouth. Surprisingly the structure and body was at a premier level for a wine costing only $42/bottle. The finish was smooth and velvety, lingering for enjoyable moments begging for another savory sip.
The wine is about 97% Cabernet Franc from 3% co-fermented Tannat. The wine was 14.5% alcohol. This will make my annual list of Best Wines Tasted for 2026. Roughly only 2-4% of the 2,000 wines tasted during the year make this list. That list is published mid-December.
At the 7th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition, the 2023 Dracaena Cabernet Franc received a Gold Medal from the Professional Judges. Over the years they typically received Gold, Double Gold and/or Best of Category. Just like their Weimaraner dogs, this is a pure bred wine. Double Gold in SF Chronicle and 92 points from Decanter.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Being that it was raining and “cold” at 72 degrees (first time seeing a 70-degree reading since moving to Arizona!), a wintertime comfort food was in order this evening. Especially to watch Monday Night Football. My wife, Susan, baked up a recent favorite Poblano Pepper Casserole. Ingredients included poblano peppers, vegetable oil, chopped white onion, jalapeno pepper, minced garlic, ground beef, cut yellow & red bell peppers, black beans, fire roasted tomatoes, corn kernels, shredded cheddar cheese, red pepper flakes, chili powder, dried oregano, ground cumin, kosher salt, black pepper and white rice. The casserole is delicious and spicey but not hot.
Each bite of the casserole combined with fruit of the wine, made a delicious meal. A great winter dinner, be it cool or cold!
The Winery
Their tasting room at 1244 Pine Street, Suite 101B in Paso Robles, located just off the downtown square. Michael and Lori behind the bar serving guests on a typical weekend.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Michael and Lori started Dracaena wines 14 years ago and while searching for a “living memorial” for their first Weimaraner dog, they named their winery Dracaena. While researching for a name, they found the name Dracaena tree, more commonly referred to as a Draco tree. Draco was the name of their dog. Today they have another Weimaraner dog named Bowen happily greeting everyone that comes to the tasting room, which is dog friendly. One of the reasons they have and continue to make excellent wines is their combined backgrounds. Michael today is a food chemist and Lori was a microbiologist.
Over the years we have held many conversations. One of the more noteworthy was about two years ago when discussing some of the high dollars levels Cabernet Franc had ballooned to. Lori stated clearly, they wanted to make an exquisite Cabernet Franc at an affordable price level. They have accomplished both a quality wine and a price value driven wine.
Currently, while still a small boutique and artisan winery, they produce Cordyline Rosé, Chenin Blanc, Blanc de Blanc, Cinnabari (Bordeaux blend) and Phoenix (Mourvedre & Syrah blend). With their Cabernet Franc lineup of both the Classic Cabernet Franc and Metz Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Franc. I have purchased and tasted them all except their Blanc de Blanc and every one, once again, coming in at a high standard.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
8th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition Early Bird Registration is now open!
How will the competition be judged? The event will be a blind tasting using the “Danish System”, sometimes called the group method. Unique to this event, two separate judging stations will be set up. The first will comprise of Professional Judges and the second being the People’s Choice Judges (serious consumers). Each set of Judges will award medals and award Best of Show based on geographic regions and categories. Additionally, each set of judges will select a Grand Sweepstakes winner from a taste off all the Division & Category winners.
Who are the judges? We have invited Tom Bender once again to head up the Professional Judging Panel(s). Tom has headed the California Sierra Foothill Competition for over 35 years, served on California State Fair Judges, is a well-known writer for various wine magazines and teaches at a local college. Other judges slated include Mike Dunne retired food editor, wine columnist for the Sacramento Bee, distinguished judge emeritus at San Francisco Chronicle and other events, Shelly Fitzgerald Wine Director at Vinum55, holding the WSET Diploma (DipWSET), Certified Sommelier (CS), Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), American Wine Expert and many more certifications, a winemaker from Sonoma Valley, Napa, Lodi and Calaveras AVA’s and other judges with WSET I, II and III qualifications. People’s Choice Judges are astute individuals with years of experience. All judges are prepared with extensive documentation and profiles on Cabernet Franc’s characteristics from various geographic areas in advance. Each wine is judged on its own terroir characteristics within their respective geographic category/area and not against other regions.
Meet three of our six esteemed Professional Judges, Mike Dunne, Shelly Fitzgerald and Tom Bender.
Mike Dunne has been writing wine stories for 50 years, mostly on California wines but also of wines from his distant travels. For 30 years he was a staff writer and editor for The Sacramento Bee in Northern California. When he retired he was the newspaper’s food editor, wine columnist and restaurant critic. In retirement, he continues to write for various publications and platforms. On the wine-competition circuit he has judged up to 23 competitions in a single year. While locked down during the Covid-19 pandemic, he wrote and published a book about the evolution of the wine trade in the greater Sacramento area: the Signature Wines of Superior California: 50 Wines that Define the Sierra Foothills, the Delta, Yolo and Lodi”. A native San Franciscan who grew up in the foothill hamlet of Sonora, he resides in Sacramento with his wife Martha, also a wine judge.
Shelly Fitzgerald is the Wine Director of Vinum55 in Arizona, with more than two decades of experience spanning restaurants, retail, wine education, writing, consulting and judging. She hold the WSET Diploma (DipWSET), Certified Sommelier (CS), Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW), American Wien Expert (AWE, and Italian Wine Scholar (IWS) credentials, and is an Advanced Cava Educator. A longtime WSET educator, Shelly has taught Levels 1 through 3 an currently oversees wine education and programming at Vinum55. Her experience as a wine judge and writer, combined with extensive travel through wine regions in the United States and internationally, has shaped both her palate and her approachable style of wine education.
Tom Bender is a Sierra foothill resident; and an instructor in the Columbia College Culinary Arts program where he has taught wine and restaurant management related classes for over 45 years. In addition to teaching, he currently is the Sierra Foothill salesperson for Astoria Wine Group, representing over 25 premium wineries. From 2006 to 2024 he managed O’Brien’s Market extensive wine department and popular wine bar in Modesto, CA. Prior to that he managed Columbia’s City Hotel for over 25 years, where he created its award-winning wine list and cellar. Over the years he has been fortunate to visit most of the world’s most important wine regions including lesser traveled ones such as China, Turkey, and Croatia. Since 1981 he coordinated the Calaveras Country Fair “Sierra Foothill Wine Competition”. He is also a judge a number of competitions including the CA State Fair, Amador County Fair, The International Cabernet Franc Judging, and Folsom’s Sierra Foothill Judging. Tom has also been a successful home winemaker for over forty years, having won gold medals for wines by his college class and “Lost Boys”, a fun group of local Sonora home winemakers.
Why hold this Event? It is to show the uniqueness and versatility of Cabernet Franc and to celebrate the wine being so much more than a blending grape. Jancis Mary Robinson, the well known British wine critic, journalist and and wine writer has a quote on Cabernet Franc summing up her feelings “I’m not a hugh enthusiast of sexual stereotyping of wines but even I can see that Cabernet Franc might be described as the feminine side of Cabernet Sauvignon. It is subtly fragrant and gently flirtatious rather than massively muscular and tough in youth. Because Cabernet Sauvignon has so much more of everything – body, tannin, alcohol, color – it is often supposed to be necessarily superior, but I have a very soft spot indeed for its more charming and more aromatic relative, Cabernet Franc”. Cabernet Franc has adapted and transformed its personality from Chile, France, Canada, the east coast of the US, the Michigan peninsula, the midwest and the west coast of the US. This event will showcase each respective area and its nuances with Cabernet Franc.
Benefits for wineries participating? National exposure from California Wines and Wineries website which will run a full feature article on those receiving Grand Sweepstakes Awards. The story will also be sent to eighty blogs for reposting and all social media for a readership reach of over 600,000. Additionally, it will be submitted to two magazines with a reach of an additional readership of 1,000,000+ if reprinted. This year working with the local newspaper to also cover the event.
Where is the event being held? It will be in Mesa, Arizona at the Commemorative Air Force Museum, a military aviation museum on March 2nd, 2027.
Early Bird Registration information can be found at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2027…
Cheers,
Michael Kelly, Founder of International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition
This year’s co-sponsors are:
Gold Sponsor – Commemorative Air Museum, Mesa, AZ https://www.azcaf.org
Gold Sponsor – John Lilly, Premier Real Estate Advisor, www.JohnLillyProperties.com
Silver Sponsor – D’Vine Bistro & Wine Bar – Mesa, AZ https://www.dvinebistromesa101.com
Silver Sponsor – VINUM55, Scottsdale https://www.vinum55.com
Copyright (C) 2026 California Wines and Wineries All rights reserved.
Our contact information:
S-K-Y-H-A-V-E-N Vineyards & Wines Visit, Willcox AVA, Arizona
Background
As a wine writer and a recent transplant to Arizona, I knew there were roughly 150 plus wineries in Arizona, with approximately 80% of all the wines produced using Willcox grapes. Decided I needed to understand the area and ventured off to meet a few of the wineries/winemakers and of course taste the wines. Surprisingly I have not been able to find many of the Arizonan wines in local bottle shops or retail stores.
Willcox AVA Background
The Willcox AVA is the largest in Arizona and encompasses 833 square miles in southern Arizona.
Map from University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
The length ranges from 40 to 45 miles, running north and south and the width averaging between 15 to 25 miles wide east to west. It is a large flat valley (or playa/bench) with an average elevation of most vineyards being 4,200 to almost 5,000 feet elevations. The Willcox Playa is sitting between the Dragoon Mountains to the west reaching 7,500 feet and the Chiricahua with the highest point 8,000 feet and Dos Cabezas Mountains 7,500 feet to the east. The highest mountain peak is in the northeast at 8,100 feet. With the high mountains surrounding the high valley floor, the diurnal temperature swings (daytime to nighttime) can average between 30-40 degrees Fahrenheit. This cooling down feature from the mountain air sinking to the basin, is a hallmark in preserving acidity in the grapes.
The land is a combination of sandy-gravelly, alluvial and volcanic loam soils which are ideal for vineyard sustainability. The Willcox AVA was designated in September 2016. Many indigenous people occupied the land like the Chiricahua Apache’s including the well-known leaders Cochise and Geronimo.
The Winery
Picture by SKYHAVEN Vineyards and Wines
SKYHAVEN Wines was recommended by another winery and very much appreciated. Spoke to Bridget on the phone, setting up the time and date for the visit. Upon driving down several “dirt & gravel” roads, I had no idea what to expect. Drove in cold and I was instantly warmed up by their radiant personalities, open hospitality and sincere desire to produce outstanding wines.
Met with Chris Brinkmeyer, who is trained and earned his viticulture and enology degree from Yavapai College. He spent time working at Pillsbury Wine Company honing his craft. You know he has a twist on producing wines as rather than calling himself the winemaker, he goes by The Wine Shepherd. Once into our conversation, it made perfect sense as his belief is that “great wine isn’t manufactured, its guided. Coaxed. Listened to”.
His life partner is Bridget Hildebrand who also has a unique title as CPKO (Chief Pants Kicking Officer)! While a bit lighthearted, Bridget spent 25 plus years in building brands in the tech industry and traveling about the world tasting wines indigenous to various areas. Bridget handles the marketing, manages the tasting rooms and is the glue holding these various pieces together.
Just by the self-anointed job titles, this is no ordinary winery! While appearing lighthearted, their work ethic and determination is at a higher level. While only being in their second year, they have won awards at both the prestigious 2026 San Francisco Chronicle and Arizona Governor’s Cup wine competition. For a newbie wine company, this shows the dedication to their craft. Well done Chris and Bridget, the future is extremely bright for you.
Their property is ten acres with seven and half planted in vines. Each of the previous wines are all small lot with limited and controlled batches.
The name Skyhaven is a bit long, suffice it say it is easy to understand with the sky pictures taken this afternoon. The balance of story Chris or Bridget will be happy to tell.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The winery’s focus is on French, Spanish, and Italian varietals grown on the high-desert Willcox Bench. Their current line up includes 2023 Syrah, 2023 Pandemonium blend (43% Grenache, 43% Mourvèdre, 14% Syrah), 2025 Viognier and 2025 Spectre Rosé. While all these wines are solid wines, their award-winning wines include:
2023 Cabernet Franc – 2026 San Francisco Gold Medal Winner
2023 Mourvèdre – 2026 San Francisco Silver Medal Winner
2023 Artificer Petit Verdot – 2026 San Francisco Silver Medal Winner
They have also received awards from the Arizona Governor’s Wine Competition.
We sat and discussed many topics beyond their delicious wines for some time. When tasting through about five wines, all being solid elixirs, three stood out as excellent and exquisite. The first was their Syrah. This is 98% Syrah and 2% Picpoul Blanc making this a solid representation of Rhone French wine. Dark and luscious on the eyes, with fruit forward aromas and taste, coupled with a modicum of tannins and finishing smooth and silky. The wine was aged 18 months in neutral oak barrels and goes for $34/bottle. This wine won a Gold Medal at the SF Chronicle wine competition and at the 2036 Governor’s Cup a Silver Medal.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up tasting was the 2023 Cabernet Franc, a Gold Medal winner at SF Chronicle wine competition. Only a few wineries from my limited research in Willcox AVA produce a Cabernet Franc. This wine on the eyes again provided a cavernous darkness in color and held all the varietal characteristics of both old world and new world combined. Pyrazines were minimal with only the exquisite taste of the fruit being presented. Aged 18 months in neutral oak. This wine also won a Gold Medal at the 2026 Arizona Governor’s Cup and “Judge’s Choice” award. An excellent representation of Cabernet Franc. I purchased a bottle on my way out!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The third being their Viognier. We got caught up discussing a specific Double Gold and Best of Class Viognier wines which I had judged at a recent competition in California and the similarities with their bottle. We discussed getting together in Mesa to try a side by side tasting soon. All three of us were so engaged in the conversation, no picture was taken!
Don’t despair, as they have two tasting facilities; one at the winery and just opening October 1st -3rd in Bisbee at 14 Main Street. If you can’t attend either of those locations, they are scheduled to be at the SanTan Art and Wine Festival October 31 to November 1st, 2026 at 2218 E Williams Field Road, Suite 235, Gilbert, AZ in the Phoenix area.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
Vinum55 Hosted an Informative Cabernet Franc Presentation & Tasting This Week
Chris Jeffers from a local wine distributor, The Natural Wine Company, gave both a presentation and brought some tasty wines to augment the session. Chris was very well versed in his French Cabernet Franc’s wine starting with the lighter and airy versions coming from Chinon and progressing to USA with Pride Mountain Cabernet Franc. The presentation focused more on “ripeness” and “pyrazines’ especially with the French wines from a cooler climate. Below is an ancestral lineage of the Loire Valley.
Up next was a discussion on the Chinon & Bourgueil terroir and how the wines from these regions key taste characteristics.
The first two slides focused on “cool climate Cabernet Franc’s” and then he explained “warm climate expressions” especially with oak aging.
The last slide was a quick summary of global style comparisons of France, Italy and USA. Here he went into a brief chemistry lesson and discerning acidity, tannins and alcohol levels. This is a great guide for the novice/intermediate wine aficionado wanting to understand the key differences and tastes with this universally planted grape varietal.
The first wine up for the evening was the 2022 Manoir de la Tete Rouge, Sammur “Bagatelle” (redhead) being the least ripe grape. First the color in the glass was radiant and semi-transparent with noticeable pyrazines.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Following was the 2024 Bernard Baudry, “Les Granges” Chinon aged in concrete on the valley floor.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up was perhaps the “most attractive wine at the dance”, in my opinion, the 2021 Ampeleia IGT from the western side of Tuscany with some seaside influence. On this both neutral oak and concrete are used. The fruit picked was ripe from this warmer climate and possesses a bit more tannins. This wine hit on all four of my ratings on the eyes, the aroma, the taste and finish. It received my highest ratings of the evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We moved to the 2023 Olga Raffault, Chinon Les Barnabes. Right away a shade darker coloring using neutral oak and concrete but with a light pepper taste.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We ended the tasting with 2023 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Franc. Those unfamiliar with the winery need to understand its geography uniqueness. Half the vineyard residents in Napa Valley and half in Sonoma County perched on top of Spring Mountain. This came in at 14.6% alcohol, the highest of the tastings. Using oak barrels produced a “savoriness” with a nice balance of tannins. This received my second highest score of the evening. Notice the color is much deeper.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
That concluded an informative and engaging presentation within the allotted time frame for the evening. Thanks Chris Jeffers and Vinum55 for holding this tasting.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
McGrail Vineyards and Winery – Meeting with Mark Clarin, the Winemaker
Photo from McGrail Website
Met with Mark in mid-July when in California. He is the winemaker at McGrail Vineyards located at 5600 Greenville Road in Livermore, California. Heather McGrail was unfortunately tied up with family members but spending a few hours with Mark provided a lot of information and a few laughs! Had stopped by when they first opened in 2008 and they had one wine to pour, their Cabernet Sauvignon. As they say, time marches and on this day, I had to circle their large parking lot three times to find a parking space as they had so many guests!
We sat out on the patio while McGrail Vineyards was having their Bubbly & Beats event, but we were able to find a reasonably quiet table to converse. We started our discussion with a taste of their Sauvignon Blanc grown at a vineyard just down the street. This was an excellent wine crisp, light and airy grapefruit and on this warm day a perfect “patio pounder” at 13.2% alcohol. This received my highest rating along with the next wine.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
While we discussed various business topics like production volumes, number of varieties produced, Mark’s background, etc., he asked which wines I was interested in tasting. Their wine list is extensive and opted to focus on just a couple even though so many were desirable. First up was the 2022 “A JÓ ÉLET meaning “the good life”. Made with 100% Hungarian barrels and aged for 30 months. Mark mentioned the cost of these selected Hungarian barrels ran about $5,900 each! The wine was dark red in color and well balanced with lots of black fruits (cherries, blackberries), with baking species wafting into the senses. A great Cabernet Sauvignon and sells it for $59/bottle. This and one other wine rated my highest scores for the day!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The next wine we sipped on was 2022 Shamus Patrick Red Blend. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc in classic Bordeaux Blend style. On the eyes a royal purple in coloring, aromas of plum and “Christmas spices” abounded. On the palate, an ultra-smooth drinking wine, with the pedigree of each grape varietal leaving a pleasing impression. The finish provided caressing tannins and made for a soft conclusion on each sip.
For the record, any wine named Shamus, the name of one of our previous West Highland Terriers, automatically made it a shoe in for being an excellent wine!
Continuing the Irish wine tasting, tried the Slainte Red Blend. While not revealing all the mix, one thing Mark mentioned was that it contained 23% of Touriga National which is something that is unique in violet floral aroma and strong tart earthy notes and dark fruit. Touriga is a great wine and very much underappreciated in the United States.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The balance of the conversation center around Mark’s background. He started in 1979 at Wente and by 1989 was Cellar Master. He then traveled to Europe in 2002 and picked up more traits on winemaking. In 2006 he attended University of Davis which landed him a job at Bonnie Doon Winery in Santa Cruz. In 2009 he officially joined McGrail Vineyards and Winery. Today their current lineup includes six white and Rosé wines and ten red wines and red blends. They also have a sparkling wine. Mark’s background and use of vineyards and barrel treatments showed tremendous creativity for his art form of making many delicious wines.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
At this point we were running short on time but managed to sneak in their 2022 Cabernet Franc that was entered into the 7th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition in 2026 in the $61 to $70 Category. It received Double Gold Medal from the People’s Choice Judges and Best of Category! It also received a Silver Medal from the Professional Judges. A very smooth and silky Cabernet Franc and one that could easily be enjoyed by itself sitting next to an evening outdoor firepit or with selected foods.
The last topic, in which he referred me to Heather, was specifically how they were addressing and enticing the younger generations of wine drinkers. More to come on that topic later.
At the conclusion of the time, I was amazed by what was accomplished at McGrail Vineyards and Winery with Heather and Mark since my early and first visit. I was also happy to see the Irish Shamrock on each bottle!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
YoungInglewood Vineyards – Funambulist and Minimalist Are Key
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Jim, Jacky, Mary and Scott have been friends of mine since they officially opened. I was invited at the time by their new tasting room manager to come visit this exciting winery prior to their grand opening. Once I met them and understood their commitment to the land, their love of art and desire to produce winning wines, we became quick friends. Their commitment and stewardship are summed up by their working the vineyard organically and regeneratively by hand and with gentle equipment. Minimal irrigation is used to allow roots to grow deep into the alluvial soil on the property. They typically made small boutique production of various varieties.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This logo is still one of the best in industry showing the winemaker’s character to find the balance between sugar, acid and flavor both pre-harvest and while making the wine. Simple and meaningful symbol without wording.
While knowing and writing about their wines for years, I wanted to visit and find out what is new. First off was being greeted by their new tasting room manager Shannon Pestoni. She is well known in Napa Valley and a genuine and enthusiastic addition to the winery. Just one more reason to visit the winery.
When greeted by Shannon, Jim and Jacky, I was offered a glass of 2025 Vin Clair in the foyer, a delightful Rosé wine made from 52% Malbec and 48% Merlot.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We then moved to the tasting room where one of my favorite paintings was moved back to its prominent place over the tasting bar. This photo doesn’t reveal the depth and color of the painting in person.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We wholeheartedly tasted each of these wines and a few others. Three wines made my annual list of Best Wines Tasted for 2026. From the above list the 2022 Right Bank ($130) was produced to near perfection. Ditto for the 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon ($175). However, when I thought I had tasted some of their best wines, the 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon absolutely blew the doors off ($210). These are not simply good wines; they are exceptional wines produced to the highest level of quality.
A few others were tasted like the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon and obviously all were solid wines. Somehow during my travels, I misplaced my detailed notes on each wine but that should not prevent one from tasting and obtaining any one of them!
Additional varieties produced by YoungInglewood include 2021 Malbec, 2022 Petit Verdot, 2023 Cuvée Edit Pinot Noir and 2024 Aligoté.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2017 Vivác Winery Cabernet Franc – Concentrated Goodness at 5,600 ft Elevation!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Photo from Vivác Winery Facebook page
Vivác winery sits at roughly 6,000 feet elevation in a valley in New Mexico. Similar to high altitude Malbec wines from the upper Calchaquí Valley (up to 10,000 feet elevations), the intensity of the flavors were equally matched. In fact the winery name Vivác (pronounced vee-vok) is a mountaineering term meaning high altitude refuge, related to an ancient Spanish word bivouac.
High elevation vineyards tend to receive more direct and concentrated sunlight. For example, for every 1,000 feet gain in elevation, the level of UV rays increase by 10-12%. This forces the fruit to develop thicker skin, leading to greater color concentration and sharp and edgy tannins.
The Winery
Photo from Vivác Winery Facebook page
The Vivác Winery is truly a family affair. Today it consists of Chris Padberg (co-winemaker, Jesse Padberg (co-winemaker), Liliana Padberg (co-business management team) and Michele Padberg (co-business management team). The truly unique fact of this winery is not only they are co-owners, but each has their Sommelier certifications from various institutions. They know quality wine! The winery is 45 miles north of Santa Fe and roughly 25 miles south of Taos.
Just a few of their many awards are:
*2023 Los Angeles International Wine Competition for their Tempranillo
*2023 at the Texas International Wine Competition won Platinum for their Sangiovese
*2022 they won Gold at the Mondial des Vins Extremes for their Merlot and Syrah
*2021 they won Gold at Berliner Wein Trophy Competition for their Montepulciano
*And many more awards for Chardonnay and various Rosé wines from France, Germany and Italy.
Today they are producing various red wines including Sangiovese, Syrah, Barbera, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Refosco, Nebbiolo, Arandel and a red blend. For the whites, they produce Chardonnay, Gruner Veltliner, Riesling and a white blend. Additionally they also offer several blush wines and even a port.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
It was with great anticipation that I opened this Cabernet Franc from New Mexico and with altitude. The Abbott Vineyard is a short distance from the winery and sits at 5,800 feet elevation. The vineyard is approximately 40 years old. The collective terroir is experienced in each sip of this wine.
First on the eyes this wine is cavernously dark in color and medium heavy viscosity. Once poured into the glass, the aromas unmistakably showed it’s “cab franc-ness” pedigree, shouting out to the olfactory senses enticing one to savor its pedigree. On the nose sweet red raspberry was dominate with intense violets. On the palate, “high altitude” intensity was evident on the first sip with gravely rocks and earthy dustiness. After letting it open up for a good 30-40 minutes, brought forth fruit of raspberry and red cherry. Secondary flavors of clove, cinnamon, oak. At the finish a combination of both silky and edgy tannins coated the mouth. Soft and inviting oak also concluded the experience. Definitely a “food wine” unless you want a chewy Cabernet Franc!
The winery current vintage is 2023 and sells for $32/bottle and is comprised of 75% Abbott Cabernet Franc, 10% Syrah,, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Sangiovese. It is aged 14 months in French oak and 98 cases were produced.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2014 Detert Family Vineyards Cabernet Franc, Always a Brouhaha
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
Those familiar with Detert Family Vineyards know that Detert is an established winery. W.F. Detert came to the US in 1866. He operated a gold mine in Jackson, sold it and in 1912 he owned 22,000 acres in Guenoc Ranch in Lake County as well as other ranches/gold mines in Amador Placer and El Dorado Counties. W.F. died in 1929 and it was managed by his son Richard Detert who died in 1951. Tom Garrett, one of the current owners, great-grandmother, Hedwig Detert, sold the Guenoc Ranch and purchased 50 acres of the To Kalon Vineyard from Martin Stelling estate in Oakville in 1954. That is when the Detert Vineyard was named. Today it is known as one of the most prestigious vineyards in all of Napa Valley. In 1966 Detert Vineyards started selling their grapes to Robert Mondavi. For many years Robert used Detert Family Vineyards Cabernet Franc for blending. Today the owners of Detert are all great grandsons of Hedwig Detert: Tom Garrett, John Garrett and Bill Cover. Their first commercial wines were Cabernet Franc (2000) and Cabernet Sauvignon (2002).
The Winemaker
Tom Garrett is the winemaker for the Detert Family Vineyards. Tom started in 1999 at Turley Wine Cellars and then over the next 15 years worked at various wineries. The list shows some exceptional wineries such as Joseph Phelps, Robert Mondavi and Revana Family Vineyards. Tom focused his time with Detert and his other winery Dakota Shy. Tom is well known and perhaps one of the most congenial and pleasant people in Napa Valley. Over the fifteen years I have known Tom he is always flexible and available to assist, even dropping off wine at another winery for me on more than one occasion to pick up!
The Wine
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Enjoyed this wine from the cellar last week being their 2014 Cabernet Franc. The extremely dark and lush color and medium-heavy viscosity entice one to sip and taste. On the nose black cherries engulfed the olfactory senses. On the palate, soft vanilla pipe tobacco, black pepper contrast with chocolate flavors. The finish was long and extremely enjoyable. This is a quality Cabernet Franc and something special to participate in drinking. Even being 12 years old, (8 years in the cellar), it was bright with fruit, well-structured with tannins and layers of enjoyment. The current allocated release of their 300 cases is the 2023 Cabernet Franc which sells for $125.
The 2014 Cabernet Franc will make my “Best Wines of The Year List” being tasted for 2026. I know this trend will continue.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
Two Excellent Wines Enjoyed in June From Dracaena Wines and Absolution Cellars
Background
Having enjoyed various wines in June, I did not have enough time to fully present a story on many wines. However, these two wines stood out as worthy of attention. While not doing a lengthy review, I have previously noted the high quality of wines produced by Dracaena Wines in Paso Robles.
Dracaena Wines
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Each year this Bordeaux style blend changes with the mix percentages. For the 2021 Cinnabari, it is comprised of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot. All three combine dark and luscious fruit with a complex structure and finish. The tannins, which are present, are kept in check with the softening touch of Merlot. One of my favorite Bordeaux style wines. Their convenient and friendly tasting room is located at 1244 Pine Street in downtown Paso Robles. Their current vintage, 2023 goes for $48/bottle.
Absolution Cellars
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dirk Neumann, owner and winemaker, makes this wine and the 2021 provides the softer side of Cabernet Franc, with just a hint of pyrazines flavor. Dark cherry is abundant on the first sip and enjoyable with or without food. Absolution cellars prides itself on limited artisan wine with over 20 varieties in production. The tasting room is at the Waterside Tasting Lounge on the embarcadero in Morro Bay. The current vintage is 2023 and goes for $65/bottle.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly