Month: September 2023
2019 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay –Soft and Cuddly Chardonnay Lovers Need Not Read
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
(Photo by Matthew Dewey, Smith-Madrone Website)
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The Founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate grown and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Annual production is between 3,000 to 4,000 cases a year. Currently they are producing Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc). The Chardonnay grapes come from an elevation of 1,900 to 2,000 feet on a 30% slope!
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This is the second vintage of their Chardonnay I have had the opportunity to taste (previously a 2018). First, if you are a buttery Chardonnay wine lover stop reading as this is not your wine. If you are soft and cuddly Chardonnay drinker, again stop reading this story. This wine being dry farmed, has enough minerality to mirror spelunking in a cave. The wine tastes like no other Chardonnay in recent memory and I have enjoyed many Chardonnays.
On the eyes, while possessing your typical light straw or golden coloring and medium body viscosity, something is “different”. Next on the nose, lemon zest is the predominant aroma wafting into the senses. Almost a Sauvignon Blanc bold characteristic. No tamed or water downed Chardonnay with roundness and little flavor. On the palate, minerality and freshly rained on granite stones, come bursting to the forefront along with white stone fruits. The acidity is sharp, pointed and clearly targeted for specific food pairings. The finish is crisp, lively and an extremely dry and balanced Chardonnay. A Chardonnay packing a punch of a heavy weight boxer!
The wine is from Spring Mountain, barrel fermented for 9 months in 55% new French oak. Only 1,153 cases were produced and it goes for $45/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2019 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay was selected for this meal with its acidity and strong citrus flavors. The dinner was a light whole wheat spaghetti pasta with spinach and topped with fresh scallops. The scallops were sautéed in a minimal of butter and a touch of brown sugar and topped off with a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese. The citrus flavor of the wine was a perfect Yin/Yang (opposite but interconnected forces) to the soft sweetness of the scallops. Believe that this wine would be excellent with fresh oysters, seafood with a fresh fruit salsa or any fish cooked with lemon/lime juices.
Sláinte,
Michael
2020 Ancient Peaks Cabernet Franc – A Great Surprise!
The Background
As many readers know, I hold the Annual Cabernet Franc Wine Competition & Celebration. So while enjoying may Cabernet Franc wines from around the USA and many countries, I am always amazed when a “new to me” Cabernet Franc shows up. This was the case of Ancient Peaks Cabernet Franc being given to me from a good friend who was visiting the greater Paso Robles AVA recently. This was just opened the other night, thinking it would be “just another Cabernet Franc” from Paso, especially from Santa Margarita Ranch sub-AVA. Was I ever so surprised!
The Winery
Photo from Ancient Peaks Website
Have not tasted Ancient Peaks Cabernet Franc, nor really aware of their winery. The winery was founded by Karl Wittstrom, Rob Ross and Doub Flipponi. Mike Sinor has been the founding winemaker since the first vintage in 2006.
Map from Ancient Peaks Website
Once understanding that the property contains five unique soil types: rocky alluvium, ancient sea bed, granite rock, shale and volcanic you can now understand their “unique label” featuring the soil types. On the property they make white wines of Viognier, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Red wines produced include, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot, Malbec and red blends. They even produce a fermented mead, produced from honey bees. The estate is comprised of 14,000 acres and 900 acres are under vines.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2020 Ancient Peaks Cabernet Franc wine was dark and opulent on the eyes and with medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose, cherry and blackberry wafted into the senses beckoning and drawing one to partake in a sip. In the palate, the aforementioned fruits burst into a parade of flavor profiles, coupled with plum and secondary flavors of coffee and vanilla. The finish was expressive with grippy tannins and an intense structure, not typical of Cabernet Franc from the region. A real surprise and welcomed treat!
The wine consists of 92% Cabernet Franc and 8% Merlot. Their limited-edition offering was hand selected from their finest vineyard rows and aged for 23 months in 50% new French oak. The price is $50/bottle and belongs in their Pearl Collection. The wine comes in at 14.9% and extremely smooth.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
This section is where it is usually paired with a meal, but not knowing the wine, nothing was paired with it this evening. For sure the next bottle will be paired with one of our “prized dinner offerings”.
As I was writing this quick review, I made contact with the winery for a complete story and tasting of their wines in the coming months.
Sláinte,
Michael
2017 Hindsight Wines, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
Background
Wanted to try a wine that I had experienced before. Just tested negative from Covid and being a “difficult time” had to go on Paxlovid. All is good now, but between Covid affecting my taste buds and Paxlovid leaving a metallic taste in my mouth, I need to figure out how “wine & food” was going to taste again! So some 36 hours after testing negative and going off Paxlovid, wanted a true test. Selected a 2017 Hindsight Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon as my standard as their wines flavors and profiles are fixed in my mind as well as a known food dish.
The Winery
Previously I have written about the Hindsight Winery in Calistoga and their excellent red wines, especially their Cabernet Sauvignon’s. About two years ago their long time winemaker, Jac Cole retired. Now some excellent news—they hired Michael Weis, who was the head winemaker at Groth. He is well known for making spectacular wines and I believe he received 100 points from Wine Spectator for one of his Sauvignon Blanc vintages. Additional reading about the winery and ownership can be found at:
Recently they have made arrangements for their wines to be tasted at 1124 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga at the Vault in Calistoga. Their phone number is 707-341-3321.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2017 Hindsight Wines, Estate 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. This is from their Calistoga vineyard location at the top of Napa Valley just northeast of the town of Calistoga. With a late season cold snap, this vineyard saw less than half of their normal yield. On the eyes, dark rich red coloring beckoning one to partake of this medium-heavy viscosity wine. On the nose black fruit aromas waft into the senses comprised of dark cherry, plum and blackberry. On the palate, these impressionable fruits swirl about to provide a delightful fruit forward and mouth filling wine. Secondary flavors of vanilla and mocha are present in the background. Deep structure, balanced and providing wonderment and delight in the same sip. The finish provided velvety tannins with a light grip, knowing tannins were present but so round and smooth. The wine was aged in 100% French oak barrels (50% new) for 20-24 months. The price is $79.99/bottle and a value for this quality of wine.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Wanting to showcase the wine with a food pairing, decided to sear and BBQ a marinated flank steak to make Carne Asada. Used our standard recipe with a couple of small changes: adding lemon juice, chopped chipotle peppers and smoked paprika. Cilantro and lime wedges accompanied the presentation. Served with BBQ’ed whole corn on the cob, then sliced off the cob with added butter, salt and pepper. The meal was as I remembered and while a good A-, our “normal recipe” is a solid “A” and we will go back to it for marinating and BBQ-ing. The taste with the wine was still excellent and a great way to come back to food and wine as I remember. Those 10 days seemed like much longer!
The 2017 Hindsight Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon will again make my Best Wines Tasted in the year (2023). That listing is based upon 1600 to 1800 wines tasted during the year, with less than 5% making the list. Two categories exist, the first being up to $50 and the other $51 and up. It comes out mid-December annually.
Sláinte,
Michael
Acquiesce Winery & Vineyard – 2021 Roussanne
The Winery
Photo by Her Life magazine from Acquiesce Facebook site
Acquiesce Winery continues to impress with their white wine portfolio on French varietals. There is so much to state about Susan Tipton, owner and winemaker of Acquiesce Winery. The key takeaway is that she established her winery in Acampo (just north of Lodi) with the expressed purpose of bringing French white wine varieties to market. Lodi had been primarily known for red wines, but she turned heads with some of her unique wines such as Picpoul, Clairette Blanche, Ingénue (blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc & Picpoul Blanc), Roussanne and more. Here are some reviews of her wines and her impact:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2020/09/20/2018-acquiesce-vineyards-picpoul-blanc/
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2020/08/30/2018-acquiesce-ingenue-french-and-more-french/
Her awards are too numerous to list!!
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Her 2020 Roussanne and earlier vintages have made my Best Wines of the Year list. The 2021 Roussanne on the eye is a light-medium golden straw color and medium viscosity. On the nose, it possessed an elegant finesse with floral aromatics, hints of pear, apricots and with a rich and silky smooth mouthful texture almost creamy. The finish had a soft nutty texture of almond and a hint of honey with a distinct minerality with a medium long finish. Roussanne brings more acidity, elegance and floral aromatic complexities to the wine which makes it perfect for chicken, turkey or fish. The current release is the 2021 and winery price is $34/bottle. This wine will make my Best Wines Tasted in 2023 (published in December 2023).
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening at Verona18 with their special, a grilled Mahi Mahi, topped with mango salsa. Accompanied by rice pilaf and sautéed seasonal vegetables. The fish was cooked to perfection, moist and flakey.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Had an appetizer called “Little Gem Wedge”, blue cheese, bacon, hard-boiled egg, red onion, cherry tomatoes, radishes and lots of blue cheese dressing!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
For the salad, had a glass of 2019 Acre Merlot which was spot on for the strong cheese. This is considered a Merlot for Cabernet Sauvignon lovers!
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.acquiescevineyards.com
https://www.coppervalleygolf.com/homepage/current-operations
Saint Macaire – An Old Bordeaux
Do you know the story on Saint Macaire? Why it disappeared and now has resurfaced? An article I did a few months back on Saint Macaire, the 7th lost Bordeaux varietal was just re-published by the American Wine Society Journal, their Fall Edition. You can read the information below:
Sláinte,
Michael
Iron Hub Wines – 2020 Small Lot Chardonnay (And a lot more!)
The Winery
Photo from Iron Hub Winery Site
The winery was founded by Tom Jones from Lava Cap Winery fame in the Apple Hill area near Placerville. Tom completed his master’s degree in Viticulture & Enology from UC Davis, and for almost 30 years developed award-winning wines. Tom and his wife Beth’s new endeavor began in 2014 with the purchase of the 33 acre property that had been known as Amador Foothill Winery. Having control of the grapes from vineyard to bottle was key in his quest for quality control with 17 acres planted in vines.
Photo from Facebook Blog
The name of the winery came about from Tom’s mountain sojourns in the area. On an adventure he discovered an antique, hand-forged wagon wheel hub in a remote area. Thus this small winery on Steiner Road drew a parallel with his goal of making small lot artisan wines similar to the craftsmanship of the “iron hub” he found on a walk. The beautiful new tasting room was opened in December 2017.
Photo from visit and discussion 9/2/2023 ©Michael Kelly
Spencer, their son, following in his father’s footsteps by also graduating from UC Davis with a master’s degree from the Department of Viticulture and Enology, is the winery’s Assistant winemaker. Today, they form a dynamic father-son winemaking team. Tom and Spencer enjoy and demand a hands-on approach to every aspect of the winemaking process, from tending the grapes in the estate vineyards to carefully crafting both red and white wines. They recently added 10 acres managing the Spanish Creek site they are leasing. Having now 27 acres of “estate property” to manage is keeping them very busy. Tom has stated that “Our estate affords me creative control from the vine to the bottle”.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
The winery offers a fairly broad spectrum of wines including Sémillon, Rosé based on Tempranillo, Chardonnay, Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache, Triad (GSM blend), Sangiovese, Barbera, Zinfandel (3 different Zin’s!), Resolute (a blend based on Aglianico) and a Petite Sirah.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
One another wine stood out which was their 2019 Zinfandel “Clockspring” with spiciness and other worldly peppery flavors. I purchased this wine and that story will be forthcoming.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I tasted this Chardonnay once at the winery a few years back and immediately felt it was one of the better produced Chardonnay’s. At that time I went back and picked up a case of it. Chardonnay typically does not do well in the warmer climate of Amador County and when first offered it I was taken back. It was explained that the vineyard for this wine is in Amador County but located at a much higher elevation called Spanish Creek vineyard in the Sierras at an elevation of 2700 feet. The cooler climate is ideal for producing exquisite Chardonnay grapes.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this wine to go with the dinner meal this evening. The small lot 2020 Chardonnay on the eyes was a golden straw color with medium viscosity. The first aromas on the nose, was like a lightning strike! Fruits of green apple and pear shouted out their presence in the glass. Secondary flavor of dry apricots were also present. From the first sip a creamy textural wine with previous mentioned fruits came together like a well-orchestrated symphony. Added to the mix was vanilla which was just slightly present on nose and became infused in the glass with gentle oak overtones. The finish was long, poised and glamorous like a family portrait with a hint of brioche. 300 cases were produced and spent 12 months in the barrel. It sells for $34 a bottle and for my money an excellent price. I felt it was so good, I came home with a case! Immediately, this wine made my list of Best Wines Tasted in 2021 with the 2018 vintage and again this will in 2023 with the 2020 vintage (list out mid-December).
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Chardonnay was paired with a lemon garlic shrimp pasta dish. It consisted of fettuccini pasta, shrimp, olive oil, unsalted butter, garlic cloves, dried oregano, spinach, crushed red pepper, parsley flakes and lemon juice. Topped off with fresh Parmesan shredded cheese. The “lightness” of the meal paired wonderfully with this exquisite lightly oaked Chardonnay. Having the Chardonnay at home with a meal reconfirmed my voting it in the past as the Best Wines Tasted!
Photos ©Michael Kelly
Now looking forward to tasting their beautiful grapes of Aglianico (shown above) and their gorgeous looking Barbera (below) as they were not available for tasting at the time of my visit.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Sláinte,
Michael
Cuda Ridge Wines Releasing Three New 2021 Carménère Wines
The Winery
There is a lot to be said about Cuda Ridge Wines in Livermore, California. A key point is that they produce Bordeaux style wines. The Cuda Ridge winery and Tasting Room is located at 2400 Arroyo Road in Livermore, California. Cuda Ridge Wines current production is approximately 2100 cases. The winery produces the following Bordeaux varietals: Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and most recently their addition of Carménère. Always experimenting, Larry Dino owner & winemaker will produce non-Bordeaux style wines which are designated under their Black label, these wines include Sangiovese, New-World style Cabernet Sauvignon and others. Each of the varietals produced are small lots ranging from 100 – 450 cases. Cuda Ridge does extensive blending of the varietals and strives for lower alcohol wines with intense complexity and character, traditional of the Bordeaux style wines.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
His 2019 Mélange d’ Amis blend which translates as “blended by friends” won Best of Show & Best of Class at the 4th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition. Larry set out to make a Saint-Émilion style blend with enjoyable drinking characteristics. He has also won numerous other awards, much too long to enumerate here.
The History of Carménère
The history of the Carménère varietal is as fascinating as it is happenstance! It was once one of the grapes in the Médoc region of Bordeaux. It served a similar purpose as Petit Verdot does today – producing a deep red ink on wines. It was one of the original six red grapes of Bordeaux. Carménère originates from the French word for crimson (carmin) which refers to the crimson color of the autumn foliage.
(Photo from Wikipedia of Carménère grapes)
When the Phylloxera plague hit in 1867 destroying most of the vineyards in Europe, many thought the Carménère grape was extinct. It wasn’t until 150 years later that it was discovered that Chile had preserved the Carménère grape thinking it was Merlot (from clippings planted from France). DNA confirmed that it was the missing 6th varietal of Bordeaux.
The Story Behind This Tasting
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Larry is about to release 3 new vintages of Carménère wines from 3 different vineyards. He asked if I could do a write up on these wines. An obvious easy task per se if one wine is from Napa, another from Central Coast and the third is from the Sierra Foothills. Each “terroir” would play significantly in the construction and flavor profile of each wine, making each unique. The difficulty in trying to dissect each was a bit enormous. By the way only 71 acres of Carménère are planted in California.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
So coming up with a way to compare and contrast each was the challenge. Larry’s Carménère, two are from Livermore and one from Pleasanton, the adjoining city. While differences in the vineyard management, soil, row orientation exist, it would most likely be “similar” in “terroir”. Adding to it was that Carménère being a strong varietal, really needs food to express its quintessential character.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The solution was to enlist the help of a few friends in the community. So six of us gathered Sunday evening to delve into the challenge. Fortunately, four of the invitees are not only good friends but wine judges and one is even a winemaker for a large winery with lots of experience. So part one was solved enlisting more “eyes and mouths”. The second issue was food with the wine.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
A detailed list was compiled on foods that would showcase the Carménère grape. It was sent to all and each couple (and us) were to bring one or two tapa plates to share with the group. The dishes included: marinated and seared Carne Asada on the BBQ served with lime and cilantro, BBQ’ed Portabella mushrooms with sauce, roasted garlic French bread, cucumber tomato onion and feta cheese salad with a light rosemary dressing, roasted red tomatoes, white beans and rosemary dish, and homemade white bean and kale soup topped with croutons, olive oil and fresh parmesan cheese.
One last issue was the glassware. To be as impartial as possible each couple brought six glasses of the same size and shape. So when each wine was poured the same aromas would waft into the senses being confined from the same wine glasses. The idea behind the small tapas was to taste each one with each wine to help formulate their conclusion. As a footnote, each bottle was brought out of the cellar (55 degrees) three hours before the event, decanted and poured back into the bottle and then sealed with a plug. Served at 65 degrees.
One last item still remained to make this as “objective” as possible. How to rate the tasting? This was not a blind tasting, but how much information was to be disseminated? So constructing a simple template focused on: visional, smell, taste and finish. Additionally any significant notes for each could be added. Barrel treatment was disclosed to provide context for wine tasting. Here is the wine barrel and alcohol levels for each being barrel aged for 18 months:
Casa de Vinas (Livermore)
33% new French oak
67% once used American oak
14% alcohol
Insel Family Vineyard (Pleasanton)
100% new French oak
13% alcohol
Little Dog Vineyard (Livermore)
50% new French oak
50% once used French oak
13.2% alcohol
Each person was allowed to taste individually or do a compare and contrast with the other two, it was up to each to decide their methodology. At the end of the session, we went around the table and shared our notes. So here is how each solidly produced wine did in this compare and contrast exercise.
First up was Casa de Vinas with unedited notes:
Eyes: the lightest of the three, with a little tone of brown, dark ruby coloring
Aromas: oak, earthy, cola, American oak, smoky
Taste: very dry, candied orange peel, balanced, flat, cranberry, strong acidity
Finish: slight sweetness, boring and too short, lackluster, needed food, food friendly
Other notes: Best with food to bring out the character, it became alive with food
Next up was Insel Family Vineyards with unedited notes:
Eyes: dark violet / ruby, medium, no ruby coloring, medium viscosity
Aromas: violets, floral, mint, black licorice, bell pepper, opens in the glass, caramel, vanilla, green pepper and spice.
Taste: minerality, oak, vanilla, not jammy, vanilla with a little acidity, spicy and fruit on secondary taste
Finish: flat, great w/mushrooms, tangy w/mushrooms, tasted higher in alcohol, good finish, long finish, well rounded
Other notes: well-rounded without food, could drink alone or with food
Last up was Little Dog Vineyard with unedited notes:
Eyes: darkest, inky, green/dingy, burgundy coloring deep red, dark ruby
Aromas: pepper, caramel, green beans, minty green, earthy, cola, green pepper with fruit
Taste: caramel, tannins, smoky, vanilla, caramel, pleasing good tannin balance, slight pepper
Finish: smooth, flat without food, best with beef appetizer, bitter on finish, smooth and lingering
Other notes: gripping tannins perfect with food
Definitely a lot to sort through, but it is like trying to choose your favorite child or best song ever heard, which cannot be done! All were essentially true to the varietal and no flaws exhibited. We did a vote at the end to see who would buy each one. The overall favorite was overwhelming Insel Family Vineyards, followed by Little Dog and then Casa de Vinas. You the reader can sort through the notes and depending on food or food choices, determine your favorite.
Never were the words truer from Andre Simon on this varietal that “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners”.
I want to thank Tana and Gregg Cole, Darlene and Steve Besst and Susan Kelly for their insights, food preparations and “hard work” for the evening. We did get to relax after the event with some other wines and Irish whiskeys for the grueling work!
Sláinte,
Michael
2021 Selin Cellars Alicante Bouchet, Puccioni Ranch from Dry Creek, Sonoma, California
The Background
What is Alicante Bouschet? First this grape has both a red skin and red flesh, known as teinturier. Henri Bouschet, a French botanist, created it when he crossed Grenache with Petit Bouschet in 1866. Alicante Bouschet was planted heavily during prohibition in California and exported to the east coast. The dark and intense skins made it resistant to rot while being transported.
The grape is the 12th most planted red grape in France and found mostly in Languedoc, Provence and Cognac regions. In California the grape was and still is popular among home winemakers and grown in Napa, Sonoma, Madera and Calaveras counties. Other areas growing this varietal are Algeria, Israel and central Italy. In Spain, Alicante Bouschet is called Garnacha Tintorera and is intensely black with one of the heaviest viscosity I have experienced. FYI- Alaya Tierra is one of my favorite producers in Spain of this wine.
The Winery
Pete Selin, owner and winemaker of Selin Cellars, had spent many years appreciating and tasting wines from various regions. After retiring from high tech in Silicon Valley he moved to Sonoma Valley. He felt right at home in Sonoma with the boutique, hands-on style of the wines. A solid friendship developed with Chris Taddei of Taddei Family Wines and today they consider themselves “brothers”. Chris and Pete work together in making wines for both wineries and share a tasting room at 7726 Bell Road in Windsor, California. It is here that Pete and Chris also produce their wines. Selin Cellars was established in 2019. Today Selin Cellars produces about 400 cases annually, Pete will cap out his production at no more than 1,000 cases in the future.
Pete sources his grapes from the following hand selected vineyards:
Cabernet Franc – Burnett Vineyards, Barrie Vineyard, Chalk Hill
Puccioni Ranch – Alicante Bouschet, Petite Syrah, Zinfandel
Jenks Vineyard – Chardonnay (along the Russian River)
Photo from Selin Cellars of Alicante Bouschet at Puccioni Ranch
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo from Selin Cellars
Alicante Bouschet normally comes in around 13-15.5% alcohol and this 2021 came in at 12.2% alcohol, so a touch on the lower side. Yet the intensity of the wine still came through. First on the eyes a deep purple/black color with heavy viscosity. On the nose black fruit aromas wafted into the senses. On the palate this dark elixir burst with jammy blackberry and blueberry. Secondary flavors of spicy pepper and dark chocolate swirl about. On the finish, rustic and earthy notes along with velvety tannins were present. This is not for novice wine drinkers as the structure and its natural heaviness are ever present.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Picked out especially for this dinner of prime New York BBQ’d steak served medium rare. Brought this to a friend’s house to pair with the steak. Accompanied by a delicious twice baked potato and sautéed vegetables of asparagus, mushrooms and string beans. The smoky BBQ steak and the heavier and intense Alicante Bouschet make a wonderful pairing.
Sláinte,
Michael
2017 Taddei Wines Indindoli Vineyard – Now Two Great Choices!
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Met again with Chris Taddei of Taddei Wines located at the southern portion of Windsor at 7730 Bell Road where he has his tasting room as well as crush pad and barrel storage. He also does custom crushing for many clients. While not having a lot of time, he once again provided some excellent information on Sonoma County winemaking and how the harvest is shaping up. We also had an opportunity to taste several of his mouth watering wines.
Background
After graduating from University of Hawaii in Economics and Political Science Chris moved to Seattle for a high tech company. He started making wines in his garage, and started making wines professionally in 2003. After he moved to Sonoma County, he was mentored by Carmine Indindoli and was passionate about understanding wine making especially wine chemistry. His love affair with wine started when he graduated from college and bought a bottle of La Tache at dinner. That wine was his ah-ha moment and as he stated “he had no idea a bottle of wine could be so profound”. When I asked him what attracted him to Pinot Noir he responded “Pinot is moody and seductive, it’s not like other varietals”. He finished off the conversation with a profound sentence stating “Wine is the greatest communication tool ever made. I feel lucky to be able to make something that can be shared in such a positive way”.
During my short visit I was once again impressed at the wide range of his production. Here is a listing of his current releases incorporating different vintages, vineyards, treatments (oaked or unoaked), etc.:
Zinfandel (2),Cabernet Sauvignon (13),Rose (2),Chardonnay (5),Merlot (1),Cabernet Franc (5), Blends (2 or more), Sauvignon Blanc (3), Pinot Noir (8), GSM (1), Barbera (1), Viognier (1).
For only making 1,000 cases a year, he has focused on small lots, many being only one or two barrels. He has been producing small and boutique lots of wines for over twenty years.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Tasting two of his Pinot Noir wines, the 2018 and 2017, left me with a difficult choice on which one to take home with me. I previously took home the 2018 and it made my Best Wines list tasting for 2023. On this visit, tasted the 2017 and was equally “blown away”.
Finding a good Pinot Noir can be an illusionary quest. Pinot Noir wine has a double axis: one for taste and one for price/quality ratio. As a friend of mine has stated for years, Pinot Noir is either very good or it can be skunky! I can provide some great direction on Pinot Noir wines near, at or above the $100/price level. The difficulty is finding one closer to an everyday or once a week price point (sub $50). This comes close at $65/bottle and wine club members get a 25% discount (case) or $48.75. Classic Pinot Noir grown in warmer weather tend to be riper and the acid softens a bit. Grown in Sonoma County you get a wonderful blend of heat and cooling fog providing the ideal climate for Pinot Noir.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Now about this magnificent wine. First on the eyes, a ruby and brick coloring with a semi-translucent clarity and light-medium viscosity. On the nose, rose petals and freshly picked strawberry aromas waft in the senses. On the palate surprising and welcomed “heavier than expected” and almost chewy tannins appear yet velvety. Spices of cinnamon and nutmeg, along with prominent strawberry flavors co-mingled with red cherries created a delightful and caressing explosion in the mouth. The tannins and high acidity were nearly perfectly balanced with the forward fruit to round out the experience. The finish provided some nuances of minerality, deeply intertwined structure and was long lasting. The wine provided just the right amount of fruit. Often I have spoken of Pinot Noir as being feminine like a ballet dancer as opposed to a hearty Cabernet Sauvignon being a heavy weight boxer. This wine similar to the 2018, provided a solid compromise between the two polar opposites, providing a soft presence yet a noticeable punch. This wine was in 100% new French oak barrels, one from Billion and one from Damy.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this wine to pair with a BBQ’d pork tenderloin. A homemade dry rub was prepared with chili powder, brown sugar, dried oregano, paprika, cinnamon, garlic powder, fine sea salt and a little extra virgin olive oil. The slices of pork tenderloin each provided ample flavors to assimilate the refreshing wine. The meal was accompanied by a sautéed medley of broccoli & mushrooms, Yukon Gold potato and a garden salad. The pork tenderloin was moist and juicy thanks to a tip from a friend! The wine calmed down the little spiciness and earthiness of the rub on the tenderloin and the wine fruit came across even brighter. Adding a dollop of Stewart & Jasper Orchards Cherry Pepper Sauce blended well with the pork. A very good food and wine pairing!
So both the 2017 and 2018 will make my Best Wines tasted in 2023! That list comes out annually about mid-December.
Sláinte,
Michael
California Wines & Wineries 