Month: February 2023
2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru, Les Perrieres
Background on the area
You may or may not be aware of this wine or region. It is pronounced “mon-rashay” and is considered to produce some of the most exquisite Chardonnay’s in the world. The community of Puligny-Montrachet is in the eastern Burgundy region. Prior to the addition of Montrachet in 1879, the village was known as Puligny. The Mont-Rachet slope is above the community. Mont means “hill” and rache translates to “scab or rash” built near a quarry. In the western portion of the vineyard is the Les Perrieres Vineyard with “pierre” meaning “stone”. It is entirely planted in Chardonnay grapes, with just 11 acres with limestone/clay mix soils, allowing the wines to provide both a freshness and minerality. Other grapes from the region include red wines from Pinot Noir.
In France, specifically in Burgundy, a wine term called Premier cru or abbreviated “1er cru”, is the second highest classification level. Grand Cru is the demarcation of wines better than Premier cru or 1er cru. Wines from Montrachet are dry and are noted for the richness and structure. Good bottles can range from $100 to almost $3,000, with some being even higher. They possess a varying depth of flavors and are exceedingly rich in texture and aromas.
The Wine, 2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru, Les Perrieres
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Picked this wine from the cellar this evening to be enjoyed with our Friday Night Wine & Dine Group. One special being offered on the menu begged for this wine (more below). First on the eyes a glistening golden color with medium viscosity. On the nose, an elegance of pear, apple and lemon fragrance. On the palate, the dry wine incorporated honey and peach that circled the mouth. On the finish, honeysuckle, honey and gripping flint minerality counterbalanced the fruit for a long lasting triumphant finish. A spectacular Chardonnay wine to be enjoyed by itself or with a meal.
The Food and Wine Pairing
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
I pulled this wine to go with a special seared Chilean Seabass offered this evening at Verona18 Restaurant. The fish was served with a pineapple-jalapeno chutney, jasmine rice and fresh seasonal sautéed vegetables. The mouth filling and creamy texture welcomed the Chilean Seabass to make a wonderful food pairing.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.coppervalleygolf.com/homepage/current-operations
2018 Hill Family Estate Reserve Chardonnay
The Winery and Background
In 1981, Doug and Darci Hill found their home on an acre of land at the northern edge of Yountville. They raised vegetables and fruits used in local restaurants. In 2001, Hill Family Estate produced their first wine a Merlot. Today they have at their disposal 12 different vineyards from which to choose and select the best quality fruit for their wines. Today the Hill Family owns 120 acres of vineyards focusing primarily on Atlas Peak, Carneros and Oak Knoll sub-AVAs.
Their production, depending on the year, ranges from 9,000 to 12,000 cases a year. Their white wines include Albariño, Sauvignon Blanc’s (different regions), Chardonnay and a late harvest white wine. The red wines include an array of wines of Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Merlot, Syrah, Blends, and Cabernet Sauvignon’s from various areas in Napa Valley. They also have several Rosés, sparkling and a Pet Nat. Alison Doran joined the Family Estate team on their inaugural launch in 2001 and continues to be their winemaker.
I first met Ryan Hill, their son, and his wife at a Castlewood CC winemaker’s dinner and enjoyed their wines 15 years ago. Subsequently, Hill Family Estate was featured last year, with Ryan again at a winemaker’s dinner at The Golf Club of Copper Valley (Verona18 Restaurant) and the wines, are still excellent.
The Wine – 2018 Hill Family Estate Chardonnay Reserve
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
A creamy rich 2018 Reserve Chardonnay with a shimmering golden color and heavy viscosity on the eyes. On the nose, a vanilla and light oak were present. On the palate, toasted hazelnut and brioche were noted along with caramel. The most notable flavor was the fresh golden apples. The finish was especially long for a Chardonnay with such bold fruit notes. The Chardonnay comes from the American Canyon region with the cooling winds effects of San Francisco Bay.
The wine was barrel fermented staying in French oak barrels for eight months. 90% of the wine went through malolactic fermentation and they continuously stirred the lees every two weeks to increase the wines depth and texture to produce a mouth filling experience. Their current release is the 2019 and is listed on their website for $65/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
For dinner this wine was served to go with a chicken Mexican salad this evening. The chicken was baked with various spices including mesquite seasoning and Applewood smoked salt and then sliced. Served on a bed of iceberg lettuce, then the slices of chicken, covered with shredded Jalapeño Jack cheese, chopped purple onions, quartered cherry tomatoes and a smoky chipotle salsa. Garnished with corn tortilla chips and black beans. The spiciness of the salad welcomed the fruity Chardonnay with open arms and provided a wonderful food pairing.
Sláinte,
Michael
2016 Allégorie Tempranillo
The Winery
Allégorie Wine is located at 432 Main Street in downtown Murphys. The tasting room is in a 160 year old apothecary building. They have reconstructed the tasting room and the outside patio seating area. The winery is now under new ownership with Loren Bishop who took over two years ago. He is also the new winemaker. I have not visited them nor tasted their new lineup but spent an hour with Loren yesterday on the phone and he has some very unique business plans, including no charge for tasting! When greeting customers, he asks if he can tell the 11 second Tempranillo story. So I said yes, and it truly was 11 seconds and encompasses how he ended up as the owner & winemaker! If you visit, truly a good story.
The Wine – 2016 Tempranillo
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine was a royal purple on the eyes and with a medium heavy viscosity. On the nose beautiful cherry and plum waft into the senses. On the palate, the luscious red and purple fruits break loose in the mouth followed by soft leather, pipe tobacco and clove. A full on mouth filling wine. On the finish, a light oak taste with defined by not sharp tannins. A beautiful representation of Sierra Foothills Tempranillo. The current release is the 2017 and it sells for $38/bottle but with limited supply.
The Food & Wine Pairing
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this bottle of wine to go with our dinner two nights ago. The wine was chosen this evening in order to cut through the beef used in the “taco meat” for the Taco Salad. The ingredients for the Taco Salad including a bed of iceberg lettuce, the cooked and seasoned ground beef, shredded Cheddar cheese and topped off with sliced purple onions, quarter cherry tomatoes and drizzled smoky salsa. The slight sweetness of the wine caressed the spiciness of the meal perfectly.
I can’t wait to go visit Loren and do a complete tasting of his older and new releases that include their 2020 S Chardonnay, 2020 Pinot Gris, 2020 B Chardonnay, 2020 Petite Rose, 2018 Artiste, 2017 Rendez Vous, 2016 Zinfandel, 2017 Bene Gusto, 2018 Barbera and many others.
Sláinte,
Michael
2021 Barra of Mendocino Reserve Chardonnay
Photo from BARRA
BARRA of Mendocino has a new label for their line of Reserve wines which are all CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers). It is in honor of a historic oak tree found on its home ranch on the Redwood Valley Vineyards. It is both a foiled oak and grape leaves, embossed on a black background. On the back of the bottle it states it is symbolic of their 70 year history making wine as in “Like an old oak tree, our roots run deep”. Martha Barra, winery owner and co-founder stated “A powerful icon in our vineyards, the oak tree represents wisdom and knowledge, strength and endurance, stability and honesty”.
About CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers)
In order to understand the winery, it is essential to understand what organic farming and certification is all about. A very brief explanation, when Charlie Barra started the winery almost 40 years ago, he undertook a Herculean task of making it organic on his terms. In his words “Yes it’s more work (annual audits/certifications, paperwork, labor requirements), more risk (crop devastation from pests) and not necessarily a bigger payout, buts essential to the well-being of this planet”. His vision was remarkable.
BARRA of Mendocino has been CCOF for over 20 years and took 3 years of inspections prior to becoming complete. Charlie’s favorite saying is that he had been farming organically for over 55 years! Organic certification requires the vineyards are maintained without conventional pesticides or herbicides, synthetic fertilizers, sewage sludge, bioengineering or ionizing radiation. Crop covers, of bell beans, red clover and peas are planted between the rows of vines and when flowering are then turned back into the soil for nutrients for the vineyards/grapes. The micro-organisms in the soil allow the vines to utilize the nutrients efficiently.
The Winery
Charlie followed his father and maternal grandfather who migrated to Mendocino County from Piedmont, Italy in 1906. Charlie began farming grapes in the mid 1940’s and in 1954 purchased Redwood Valley Vineyards. He worked vigorously with Karl Wente, Robert Mondavi and others to be one of the first growers of many varietals planted on the North Coast. Today the ranch grows organically Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Muscat Canelli. Besides the BARRA of Mendocino label, they have two other labels, Girasole Vineyards and CORO Mendocino. Charlie passed in 2019 and his wife Martha who worked with him for almost 40 years, is heading the family winery which now stands at 350 acres and a 2.8 million gallon custom crush facility. They launched the BARRA of Mendocino Brand in 1997 and the Girasole Brand in 2003. Their son and daughter also have major responsibilities to keep the “family farm” running.
The Wine – 2021 Barra of Mendocino Reserve Chardonnay
Photo ©Michael Kelly
With the new label an even more delightful Chardonnay. On the eyes a soft golden coloring with medium viscosity. On the nose pear leaps into the senses along with caramel. On the palate, a definite acidity, but more bright and opulent than sharp appears. A smooth Oak was noticeable. Secondary flavors of peach come to mind. A mouth filling and rich Chardonnay for sure! The finish was a bit abrupt stating that as good as the wine was, I personally would have enjoyed a longer finish. This wine comes from their Redwood Valley Vineyards which is located at 837 feet elevation. It is a Wente clone Chardonnay and barrel fermented in 30% new French oak with the balance being neutral. The stirring of the lees was done twice a week for 30 days to provide an exquisite texture.
It received 91+ points as Editor’s Choice, from Wine Enthusiast Magazine. The price point is considerably attractive at $24/bottle for such a rich wine.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired with a fresh Dungeness crab cake with a remoulade sauce as an appetizer. The main entrée was a blackened Swordfish. Both were purchased from Ohana Seafood in Modesto. Accompanying the meal was a fresh garden salad with Japanese Miso dressing. With the beautiful Dungeness crab cake and meaty Swordfish, the wine was a good compliment with the oaked Chardonnay. The spiciness of the blackened Swordfish was counter balanced with the Chardonnay. A truly good food and wine pairing.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
2013 Meyer Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
The Winery & Background
I had been purchasing both Hestan Vineyards and Stephanie labels for some time and one day, the tasting room manager suggested I try Meyer Vineyards. All of these are owned by Stanley and Helen Cheng who purchased the property in 1996 as a former cattle ranch. Fast forward after planting the vines, in 2009 well known winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown joined their team as winemaker. I purchased several bottles of the 2014 and two weeks later, it was voted #8 of Wine Spectators Top 100 (2017). I called to see if any more were available and they sold out in a matter of hours after the news release! Here is the story on the 2014:
The Wine – 2013 Meyer Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Opened this wine last night while watching a wonderful movie “P.S. I Love You”. Enjoyed this wine after dinner without food. This was one year younger than the award winning 2014 but you would not have thought it when tasting it. This wine on the eyes has a deep red color almost black with a medium heavy viscosity. On the nose aromas of black fruits including black cherry and spices of clove and a tinge of nutmeg. On the palate, it burst forth with the fruits along with vanilla, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco. On the finish the velvety tannins and structure confirmed one was experiencing something special.
Hard to find the 2013 today, but if you do it goes from between $70 to $85/bottle.
The movie and wine were a great pairing!
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Ledson Winery “Russian River Valley, Dutton Ranch” Chardonnay
The Winery
(Picture from Ledson Winery)
The story begins in England in 1896 and is detailed out on the website https://ledson.com/discover-ledson/history/ . It is a tale of hard work, family ties and a desire to do more for the community. Steve Ledson’s history is both unique and common—unique with background and successful venture and common with family ties. His demeanor and casual manner bespeaks volumes.
The Castle is the official tasting room of Ledson Winery and the architecture and construction alone are worth the visit! Ledson Winery offers the largest premium wine portfolio of any family owned winery in the United States. Today their offering numbers more than 70 wines annually! More information on Ledson Winery can be found at:
The Wine
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Firstly, the Gnomes did not consume any of the wine, although with St Patrick’s Day coming up, I think they were hoping to! Picked up this wine back in November with a great visit to Ledson Winery with friends and hosted by the knowledgeable and energetic Jerry Padilla. First on the eyes, a bright light straw coloring and medium viscosity. On the nose the wine came alive with aromas of honeysuckle and poached pear. On the palate, honeydew melon, almond and apple swirled about and delivered a spectacularly refreshing and full filling Chardonnay. On the finish, a light buttery flavor and minerality lingered with the rich creaminess of the wine.
Only 365 cases were produced of this Chardonnay and was kept in both stainless steel drums and 75% French neutral oak and 25% new French oak for 10 months. The price is $58/bottle. This wine was rated 94 points and received a Platinum Medal at the 2021 Winemaker Challenge in San Diego. This also just made my Best Wines Tasted in 2023 and will be noted in the Annual Report that comes out each December.
The Food and Wine Pairing
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Pulled this wine out of the cellar specifically for our meal this evening of baked Cheesy Hasselback Chicken (Tasty recipe, modified). The ingredients included: mushrooms, sea salt, black pepper, fresh thyme leaf, mushrooms, baby spinach, paprika and shredded cedar cheese. With vertical cuts in the chicken breasts and spinach along with mushrooms were inserted into each cut, the flavors of the chicken were wonderful with each bite. Accompanied by whole wheat spaghetti noodles tossed with additional sautéed mushrooms and spinach. Also a fresh garden salad with halved tomatoes, cut green onions, iceberg lettuce and Pepita seeds with a Champagne dressing. The creaminess of the wine and the cheddar cheese topping provided a velvety and delicious pairing.
As we sipped the wine, we both commented that some real crumbled bacon in the chicken would catapult this meal to even a higher enjoyment. My wife noted that on the recipe for next time!!
Sláinte,
Michael
Suburban Fracas 2020 Tannat – A Story Greater Than The Wine
Background
I usually write about wines that are very good wines, easy to call them an A or B+ grades. This article is about a wine which caught my attention as “sugar free” and sold by WineShop at Home. A friend of mine, Karen, sent me the release information on their wines and it got me thinking about how much sugar is in the wines I drink. Trying to minimize my sugar intake, curiosity got the best of me, and decided to purchase three bottles of the wine. Last evening opened the 2020 Suburban Fracas Tannat.
Tannat Grape Background
Tannat is a thick-skinned grape (blue to black in color) which produces deep, colored big, bold and tannic wines. Interestingly, Tannat has some of the highest levels of polyphenols (antioxidants) of all red wines save for Sagrantino. This is a little known fact for wine drinkers. It is now known as the national grape in Uruguay. Only 2% of the world production is in the United States. Tannat’s natural home is found near the Pyrenees in southwest France in the Basque region. The Lodi and Sierra Foothill regions are producing some of the best Tannat wines due to similar weather and soil conditions. The state of Virginia is also a key area for Tannat. In the past, Tannat needed years of bottle time to “soften up” but with the advances in viticulture and techniques in winemaking, Tannat is easier to consume earlier. Key flavors of classical Tannat are dark red and black fruits, chocolate, coffee and smoke along with acidity and strong tannins. The key trait of Tannat is it’s very high tannin levels. Thus historically, it has long been known as a blending wine. Tannat has 4,000 mg of polyphenols more than twice the amount of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Only the Sagrantino wine has more. The point is that these grape polyphenols contain antioxidants.
The Bigger Issue – Food Nutritional Labels on Wine
Wine and other alcoholic beverages have not been required to have nutritional labels on their products, like grocery items. There is a movement underfoot to have the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), who has the authority over these matters, consider making it mandatory. This would be helpful for the consumer who may have dietary restrictions say for example sugar intake. Today it is optional and 99% of the wineries do not put this information on the bottle. While the consumers may benefit, the wineries are hesitate to “tell all” about what goes into the wine in detail such as sulfur dioxide, grape concentrate, Omega Purple, etc.
However being transparent may actually increase sales for some wineries. Consumers think wine has a lot of sugar. Wines in reality don’t have a lot of sugar as the sugar from the grapes, the juice ferments into alcohol leaving very little sugar in the wine! For example one of my favorite Chardonnay’s has only .1% sugar in the bottle. Now how many grams that translate to is unknown to me. So if wineries had this label detail, they may find another market segment? The E.U. at the end of 2023 will require this labeling information on their wines with QR codes that link to nutrition and ingredient lists for wines being imported to the USA.
As a consumer this cannot happen fast enough.
Suburban Fracas 2020 Tannat
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Opened this bottle last evening with mixed expectations. How would a “sugar free” wine taste? Like watered down wine? How does one get aromas on the nose of berries without sugar/sweetness? To say I was surprised is an understatement. First on the eyes, this Tannat had a radiant dark encompassing purple color with medium viscosity. On the nose, some undistinguished aromas wafted upward, but difficult to define. However once in the palate, it was a true Tannat, with plum, blueberry and cherry. Secondary flavors of oak were also present. In the mouth this was a full body, strong and bold Tannat wine, similar to many others. On the finish, the gripping tannins coated the teeth and mouth like a Sumo wrestler. Make no mistake, this was a Tannat varietal. The wine has received the following awards:
95 Points, Platinum – 2021 Las Vegas Global Wine Awards
Silver – 2021 Lone Star International Wine Competition
Silver – 2022 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
It sells for $24/bottle and all things considered, I gave this wine a rating between a B and B- from a flavor profile and an “A” for lack of sugar and high in antioxidants.
The Food and Wine Pairing
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Paired last evening with a flank steak marinated in Chaka and seared on a cast iron skillet. Accompanied with sautéed mushrooms and broccoli, brown rice and a fresh garden salad. The garden salad had iceberg lettuce, Pepita seeds, green onions and tomatoes with a Japanese Miso dressing from Red Shell. The food and wine pairing was very good and enjoyable.
Sláinte,
Michael
BARRA of Mendocino – A New Label and an Astonishing 2020 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
This is a longer story, but covers the new logo, about CCOF, the winery, the wine and the food & wine pairing.
The New Logo
(Photo from BARRA)
BARRA of Mendocino has a new label for their line of Reserve wines which are all CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers). It is in honor of a historic oak tree found on its home ranch on the Redwood Valley Vineyards. It is both a foiled oak and grape leaves, embossed on a black background. On the back of the bottle it states it is symbolic of their 70 year history making wine as in “Like an old oak tree, our roots run deep”. Martha Barra, winery owner and co-founder stated “A powerful icon in our vineyards, the oak tree represents wisdom and knowledge, strength and endurance, stability and honesty”.
About CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers)
In order to understand the winery, it is essential to understand what organic farming and certification is all about. A very brief explanation, when Charlie Barra started the winery almost 40 years ago, he undertook a Herculean task of making it organic on his terms. In his words “Yes it’s more work (annual audits/certifications, paperwork, labor requirements), more risk (crop devastation from pests) and not necessarily a bigger payout, buts essential to the well-being of this planet”. His vision was remarkable.
BARRA of Mendocino has been CCOF for over 20 years and took 3 years of inspections prior to becoming complete. Charlie’s favorite saying is that he had been farming organically for over 55 years! Organic certification requires the vineyards are maintained without conventional pesticides or herbicides, synthetic fertilizers, sewage sludge, bioengineering or ionizing radiation. Crop covers, of bell beans, red clover and peas are planted between the rows of vines and when flowering are then turned back into the soil for nutrients for the vineyards/grapes. The micro-organisms in the soil allow the vines to utilize the nutrients efficiently.
The Winery
Charlie followed his father and maternal grandfather who migrated to Mendocino County from Piedmont, Italy in 1906. Charlie began farming grapes in the mid 1940’s and in 1954 purchased Redwood Valley Vineyards. He worked vigorously with Karl Wente, Robert Mondavi and others to be one of the first growers of many varietals planted on the North Coast. Today the ranch grows organically Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Muscat Canelli. Besides the BARRA of Mendocino label, they have two other labels, Girasole Vineyards and CORO Mendocino. Charlie passed in 2019 and his wife Martha who worked with him for almost 40 years, is heading the family winery which now stands at 350 acres and a 2.8 million gallon custom crush facility. They launched the BARRA of Mendocino Brand in 1997 and the Girasole Brand in 2003. Their son and daughter also have major responsibilities to keep the “family farm” running.
The Wine – 2021 Barra of Mendocino Cabernet Sauvignon
(Photo ©Michael Kelly
The first thing that needs to be mentioned is be prepared to have your mind blown as to what kind of Cabernet Sauvignon can come out of Mendocino!! This was simply a wonderful surprise opening this bottle. The wine comes from their 50 acre vineyard site located at 764 feet in elevation and has been designated certified organic since 2007. The wine rested 18 months in 30% new French oak barrels and the balance being neutral.
First on the eyes a deep royal purple with glistening hues around the rim. Medium to medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose this was no ordinary “milk toast or weak cousin” Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendocino, but immediately intense aromas of cherries and blackberry wafted into the senses. On the palate cocoa and vanilla coffee along with blackberry swirled lively in the mouth. On the finish, a slight “sweetness” was present but most notably was the smooth and silky, yet notable tannins providing a Cabernet Sauvignon that was “Napa worthy”. It is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon with 5% Petite Sirah. Only 427 cases were produced and is listed on their website for $28. Without a doubt one of the best Cabernet Sauvignon’s and at $28 if a flat out bargain! This just made my annual Best Wines Tasted in the year, not just for a remarkable taste but such a bargain price. That list comes out in December each year.
The Food and Wine Pairing
(Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this wine out of the cellar last evening to pair with our winter comfort food of a roast beef. Cooked perfectly medium rare and accompanied by a medley of sautéed fresh vegetable (broccoli, asparagus and string beans. Note I only ate the string beans!), brown rice and a fresh garden salad. My wife literally thought we were drinking a $50-60 bottle from Napa Valley. It made a wonderful food and wine pairing.
Truly a remarkable wine and if you like Cabernet Sauvignon, this is it!!
Sláinte,
Michael
2018 Tobin James “Rock-n-Roll” Syrah and Quick Dinner Adjustment
The Winery – A Brief Background
(photo from Tobin James Winery)
Tobin James (Toby) got his start with someone giving him six tons of Zinfandel grapes. At the time he was an assistant winemaker and he took this opportunity to make his own wine. Eighteen months later he produced his 1985 Blue Moon Zinfandel which won double Gold Medals and was listed on The Wine Spectator’s “Top 100 Wines of the Year”!! That was the unprecedented start of Tobin James Cellars. Then in 1993, Toby built Tobin James Cellars. Lance and Claire Silver joined as partners in 1996.
The winery is located eight miles east of Paso Robles on Highway 46. The property encompasses 71 acres of vineyards. Having had the old “10 mile Stagecoach Stop” on site, they went with the old-fashion western style tasting room showcasing the rugged history of Paso Robles. Today Tobin James Cellars has a tremendous following which accounts for them having the largest wine club in California of over 30,000.
The Wine – 2018 “Rock-N- Roll” Syrah
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Pulled this recently purchased wine from the cellar last evening as I had tasted it only twice before. I again was amazed by the wine. The wine on the eyes was deep crimson, almost black in color with medium heavy viscosity. On the nose some amazing aromas of pepper and jammy fruit. On the palate it is robust where the dark fruits of blackberry and plum light up the mouth. Some Christmas spices of cinnamon, clove and nutmeg are secondary flavors that appear on the finish. Also on the finish a smokiness of a campfire barbeque come across. This is a big wine coming in at 15.2% alcohol. Tobin James suggests it is an age worthy Syrah, and it appears even at four – five years of age, to be still in its youth. The wine sells for $22/bottle and provides a lot of punch for the money. They also suggest their Syrah called “Blue Moon Reserve” and “James Gang” might also be of interest.
The Food & Wine Pairing
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Last night, having for the first time a teriyaki marinated flank steak picked up at meat market nearby, it called for either a Syrah, Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Went with the Tobin James “Rock-n-Roll” Syrah as I remembered it had a sukoshi of sweetness on the finish. When tasting the beef, which was excellent but, the teriyaki sauce was a bit bland. Then added some Bachan’s Japanese Hot & Spicy Barbecue sauce and it came alive with flavors (not shown). The sauce contains red Jalapeno puree of Jalapeno peppers, salt and vinegar, along with ginger, green onion, sea salt and toasted sesame oil. The heat and spiciness of the meat now was surrounded by the embracing Syrah for a beautiful pairing. Accompanying the meal was fresh asparagus and a fresh garden salad. Decided to use a Japanese dressing from Red Shell called Japanese Miso Dressing to complete the Japanese themed dinner that happened on the fly (not shown).
I look forward to trying Tobin James “Blue Moon Reserve” and “James Gang” Syrah sometime soon.
Sláinte,
Michael
2022 L’Autre Côte Cabernet Franc Blanc – Unique and Definitely Delicious
Background
A new mini-trend is emerging in the world of Cabernet Franc. It has been developing over the last twenty years with Leah Jorgensen Cellars in Oregon being one of the first to do a white Cabernet Franc wine. But others have joined the ranks of the daring entrepreneurs, East Coast wineries Bedell Cellars and Corey Creek Tap Room. Even Michigan has supplied a Cabernet Franc from 2 Lads Winery in the Upper Peninsula. Not to be left out, Washington with Jaine Wines Blanc de Cabernet Franc has entered into the fray. Even the conservative Napa Valley features Mira Winery with their Estate Franc Blanc.
Two weeks ago I met with Steven Mirassou to taste and discuss his new venture with Cabernet Franc Blanc. Then again this week, enjoyed the wine with some unique appetizers of nuts, cheeses and foods preparing for a dinner featuring this wine.
So what is Cabernet Franc Blanc? It uses the known Cabernet Franc grape, but is gently pressed with or without whole cluster grapes, to keep most of the typical varietal character of Cabernet Franc with savvy herbal notes with a smidge of earthiness. It is different than its cousin red Cabernet Franc with less red fruit characteristics and typically exudes white peach, soft grapefruit, non-sweet apricot, nectarine and a host of herbal notes. The herbal notes include pepper, white tea leaf, chamomile tea and tarragon are often noted. It typically brings bright acidity with freshness and a crisp clean mouth fill. Other Secondary flavors may be found ranging of notes of pyrazines, asparagus, green pea, mint, cantaloupe and crush rocks. The finish is long lasting with cedar, salinity and Sauvignon Blanc “citrus notes” concluding the experience.
The Winery – L’Autre Côte
Steven Kent Mirassou providing his traditional award winning style and experience from his Cabernet Sauvignon and red Cabernet Franc’s has embarked on this new journey with this release coming out in March, 2023. Here is a past link to his red Cabernet Franc winning Best of Class:
Venturing into this new “blanc” wine is something he has been contemplating for some time and in 2022 set out to provide his take with a white Cabernet Franc. The goal to get the fruit to the winery immediately and to get it pressed. Fast, gentle whole cluster press and no soaking. Put into the fermenter at 49 degrees it took almost a month to bring the wine to a completely dry quality.
The Wine – 2022 L’Autre Côte Cabernet Franc Blanc
First, if you are a red Cabernet Franc lover, you will find tasting this wine a mind-challenging experience. For me it certainly was! First on the eyes, it is difficult to visualize and comprehend a Cabernet Franc Blanc! Secondly when smelling it very little of the typical red fruit qualities waft into the senses. Then the first sip, you are startled that this is a Cabernet Franc with little red fruit tastes. Now after closing one’s eyes and sipping many times, once you can calm your uncomfortableness, an entirely new world opens up.
The wine on the eyes is a clear elixir with almost “no coloring”. On the nose fresh floral fragrances and a almond are noted. Once on the palate the magic appears with honeydew melon, white peach, mellow apricot and a sweet grapefruit. The finish provides a definite crispness of citrus notes, but still subdued. A very complex finish with a Yin-Yang struggle and contentment of a red Cabernet Franc verses a white Cabernet Franc. In this wine they gracefully co-exist and accentuate the unique flavors of the juice.
Steven’s goal for this wine was straightforward “…..I wanted Cab Franc Blanc to be a white, crisp and pure with a flavor profile that makes for a delicious and fascinating wine. And I think that is exactly what we got”.
Perhaps we are on the eve of the new white Summer wine, challenging Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc for our consideration, admiration and patio sipping enjoyment. I know at least several folks who were at the tasting, will be adding this to their cellars!
Sláinte,
Michael
California Wines & Wineries 