Month: December 2023
Ancient Peaks Winery Visit – A True Surprise and Delight
Background
Recently a friend provided me a bottle of Ancient Peaks Cabernet Franc and mentioned he thought it was delicious. Had heard of them, but never tasted their wine. While in Paso Robles for Cabernet Franc Paso Robles in early December, I met with Mike Sinor, winemaker. I had no idea what to expect or taste and the following story unfolded.
The Winery
We had a very nice meal at their quaint restaurant at 22720 El Camino Real, Santa Margarita. Just as we were finishing lunch Mike Sinor came in and introduced himself as the Founding winemaker at their winery. We spent some time discussing the winery and hopped into a SUV to tour the vineyards/ranch. Much to my surprise, Ancient Peaks Winery is LARGE, consisting of 14,000 acres with 1,000 acres under vine. Here the video from the Oyster Ridge event center you get a 360 degree view of the property.
As it turns out Santa Margarita is the only vineyard in the Santa Margarita Ranch AVA in the most southern portion of the AVA. Some of the more interesting factoids of the vineyard were:
- Five separate soils are intermixed and found on the property, shown on one of their labels.
- The vineyard is only 14 miles from the Pacific Ocean and draws the fog onto the property
- It is the coolest sub-AVA in Paso Robles AVA.
- Being the coolest region, they are often the latest in full maturing of the vineyards. This helps in providing a slowing ripening process (often with challenges) but the reward is flavor, structure and with the varying soil types provides unique character to the grapes.
- They average 29 inches of rain with the surrounding Santa Lucia mountain range.
- Their sustainability practices have earned them SIP Certification (Sustainability in Practice).
- The owners of the winery are Karl Wittstrom, Rob Rossi and Doug Filipponi all local wine growing and ranching families in Santa Margarita.
- Santa Margarita was originally settled by the Franciscan missionaries around 1770. In 1889 the area was part of the Mexican Alta California land grant.
- It is named for Santa Margarita de Cortona Assitencia, an Italian saint.
- A rich and detailed history can be found on Santa Margarita and is fascinating reading. https://santamargaritahistoricalsociety.org/
Today they have the Oyster Ridge event building/site which is an ideal spot for weddings, corporate retreats and private events over-looking the vineyards and ranch. Additionally they provide a host of activities in the agritourism business on the 14,000 acres including vineyard zip lining, wild life tours and horseback trail wines.
The label called Oyster Ridge comes from so many oyster bed fossils found about the property. Here Mike Sinor is holding one fossilized oyster.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wines by Ancient Peaks – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Their wines have three distinct labels/branding going to market which are: Ancient Peaks, Oyster Ridge and Pearl. Many of the varieties are offered with all three labels/branding. Their white wines consist of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. The red wines offered are extensive with Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Zinfandel and of course the wine we sought out their Cabernet Franc. We were offered to taste “all the wines” but practically speaking it would be too much unless we camped overnight in the tasting room! We did taste the following wines and a couple of others. A second or third visit is definitely forthcoming to taste their Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir and Petit Verdot.
One of the many wines that grab our attention were the 2021 Ancient Peaks Cabernet Sauvignon not only for excellent winemaking with beautiful red fruit, vanilla, appropriate influence of oak and tannins with just the right about of edginess but also at a price point “unheard of” for this quality at $25/bottle.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The second one that stood out was the 2020 Pearl Collection of Cabernet Sauvignon. The aroma was alluring the flavors of blackberry and vanilla aligned with our palates. Again the quality for this wine was a bargain, yet being one of their highest priced wines at $72/bottle. Still for this depth of wine a bit unbelievable.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We purchased and walked out of tasting room with 3 bottles of the 2020 Pearl Merlot, 2 bottles of the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, 3 bottles of the 2020 Cabernet Franc and 2 bottles of the 2020 Pearl Cabernet Sauvignon. Can’t wait to do an in-depth wine review of each with an exquisite food pairing. As I normally state and quote, “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
I was extremely impressed with the quality of wines tasted, the history of the land/winery and the knowledge, warmth and hospitality of Mike Sinor. Wine Advocate summed up Ancient Peaks in a quote “keenly priced, high quality wines that deserve to be better known”.
At least two or three of their wines will make my annual Best Wines tasted for 2024.
I hope this article provides you an incentive to check out their gorgeous property and quality wines.
Sláinte,
Michael
2022 Jessie’s Grove Cinsault – Truly Elegant and Feminine
What is Cinsaut?
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Cinsault (sin-soh) also spelled “Cinsaut” is a red wine grape varietal that is found in the hot and sunny climate of Southern France and typically goes into red wine blends in Southern Rhone, Languedoc, Roussillon and Provence. In California, Cinsaut thrives in the Lodi region of San Joaquin Valley as well as along parts of the Central Coast where temperatures can be very warm. Cinsaut is used to generally produce red wines with aromatic and floral qualities and if well-made are typically smooth with subtle tannins. Jessie’s Grove Vineyards & Winery elected to add this 2022 great wine to their Provence line up.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Jessie’s Grove Winery and Vineyards is located at 1973 West Turner Road in Lodi, California. The unassuming single lane road leading to the vineyard and tasting room, indicates the demeanor of what you are about to experience—understated, homey and it brings one back to the “casual family element” of the winery. Jessie’s Grove is the site for the oldest producing Zinfandel vines in the Lodi Appellation. It is named for Jessie Spenker, daughter of Joseph and Anna Spenker, who founded the ranch and land in 1868. The property is 320 acres with 265 acres planted in vineyards. The Zinfandel vines were planted in 1888 and are still producing an incredible ancient Zinfandel wine. Here on the plot of land between highway 5 and highway 99 on West Turner Road is the home of a host of varietals- some unique, some traditional but all exceptional.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
I visited the winery in July 2023, and was hosted by owner Greg Burns and winemaker Tana Cole. The addition of a fully functioning outdoor bar to host customers wine tasting is a great addition especially during their concert series.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine on the eyes is translucent with light brick red with lavender hues and low viscosity. On the nose, fragrant and floral aromas waft into the olfactory senses with red fruits of strawberry, cherry and raspberry. On the palate, the fruits are perky and bright bursting with freshness. The finish is soft with almost absentee tannins and those that are present are soft and round. The grapes came from Bechthold Vineyards that were originally planted in 1886. Aged in neutral French oak barrels and only 165 cases were produced. Priced at $55/bottle and a very versatile wine.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was chosen this evening to go with a new dish (new to us) called Emily’s Chipotle Chili. With a spicy hot dish, wanted a soft & mellow and low tannin wine. The chipotle chili ingredients consisted of Italian sausage, ground beef, chili powder, ground cumin, ground coriander, minced garlic, diced white onion, diced tomatoes, tomato sauce, kidney & chili beans, chipotle peppers in adobo sauce and seasoned with salt & pepper. Topped with small pieces of cilantro. This dish was definitely on the “warmer and spicy” side of the equation. Served only with a fresh garden salad. The wine was a welcome accompaniment! While the food and wine pairing played well, I would like to try the wine with a calmer dish to appreciate the refined nuances of this wine.
Sláinte,
Michael
LXV Wines Presented Cab Franc Day, Paso Robles
On December 3rd 2023, at the Cass Event Center, all things Cabernet Franc were presented by various Cab Franc lovers! Participants could sign up for a symposium as well as tasting some of the 24 wineries pouring Cabernet Franc wines.
Cabernet Franc Wine Symposium
First on the slate was the Symposium, emceed by Linda Sanpei setting the agenda for a good size crowd attending this event the beginning of the day.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Linda introduced Neeta and Kunal of LXV Wines who one year ago held this inaugural event. Both are keenly interested in the development and explosion of Cabernet Franc in the USA as well as the balance of the world. However Neeta quickly pointed out this obsession is more driven by Kunal Mittal.
Photo by @thebrandfoto
Wes Hagen, an educator, wine afciando, winemaker, wine historian and many other credentials was the first up providing a PowerPoint presentation on Cardinal Richelieu who kept Cabernet Franc alive. December 4th is celebrated as worldwide Cabernet Franc Day. Paso Robles’ own Michael & Lori Budd of Dracaena Wines set the date on the international calendar on Cardinal Richelieu’s death. Wes took the audience on deep dive of the various Cabernet Franc regions and explained the “how, what and why” of the immense diversity of this one grape varietal. His enthusiasm and instructional rapport is amazing!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Wes had some interesting points and spoke about 160,000 acres planted worldwide of Cabernet Franc and the 1200 acres planted in Paso, 85% of all wine purchased is consumed within 48 hours of purchase, etc.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The six international wines tasted reflected a spectrum of this varietal’s diversity and adoption from various worldwide known regions. One of the many focused themes were the differences in “New World Style” verses “Old World Style”. New World Style Cabernet Franc are bold and fruit-forward. Warm climate areas more typically have clay based soils which result in the grapes having increased tannins present and higher intensity. Those areas include California, Chile, Argentina, Australia, Villany (Hungary), Tuscany and Virginia.
Photo by Neeta Mittal
The “Old World Style” are more lean herb-driven Cabernet Franc wines. These cooler climate wines produce a leaner and more savory wine. They typically provide good ageability because of their increased acidity. These are found in Loire Valley, St. Emilion, Friuli (Italy) and Finger Lakes, New York near Ontario.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wines tasted began with 2021 Ravines Estate in the Finger Lakes district in upper New York. The second was a 2020 Domaine Griparbella, Province of Pisa, Tuscany. Remaining in Europe was the fourth wine from 2018 Gere Villanyi, Ordogarok, Villany, Hungary. Then back across the Atlantic Ocean to the famed Uco Valley in Mendoza, Argentina to taste the 2020 El Enemigo. We finished up the tasting with a 2021 Forgotten Union from Oakville in Napa Valley.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
In the above picture it’s difficult to see, but each wine presented differences in color and viscosity. Obviously the aromas and finishes were each unique. Wes went into great detail on each wine region with its nuances and unique characteristics imparted into the Cabernet Franc. The audience at the Symposium asked questions and Wes solicited questions for a perfectly orchestrated interplay.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up was a panel of four emceed by Matt Kettmann with panelist Bill Gibbs, Austin Hope, Jeffrey Strekas and Christopher Taranto. Chris, Communications Director of Paso Robles Wine County Alliance, discussed the great diversity of each of the sub-AVA regions within Paso Robles. The information was extremely informative and helpful in understanding the breadth, range and diversity of vineyards in Paso Robles County.
Matt asked the four on the panel some direct questions ranging from viticulture, the wine industry, and their winery view of Cabernet Franc, etc., on Paso Robles suitability and planned growth for Cabernet Franc.
Cabernet Franc Wine Tasting
At the conclusion of the Symposium, those attending as well as others went out to the covered patio area where 24 Paso Robles wineries (listed at the bottom of this story) were pouring their best Cabernet Franc wines. Each winery was asked to provide an educational display to assist in showing the quality profile of Cabernet Franc.
Photo by @thebrandfoto
Additionally Chef Charlie of Cass Winery worked with Neeta Mittal to present beautifully constructed and delicious appetizers to go with the various Cabernet Franc wines being sampled.
Photos by @thebrandfoto
This was absolutely was one of the best “wine events” for education and participation. This does not happen by accident as many, many folks were involved. A partial listing include not just the folks mentioned in the article, but also Paso Robles Wine and Paso Robles CAB Collective. With a special note of appreciation to Kunal & Neeta Mittal, Linda Sanpei, Wes Hagen and the 24 wineries pouring their lovely Cabernet Franc wines.
Photo by @thebrandfoto
If you love Cabernet Franc wines, this is definitely one event you don’t want to miss next December for education, experiencing worldwide wines and camaraderie extraordinaire.
Photo by @thebrandfoto
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
Two other stories were written on the events of the weekend and can be viewed by clicking on the links:
Reels:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1K9SozyJly/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0XwBwMppe7/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
Participating Wineries:
Absolution Cellars https://www.absolutioncellars.com/
Adelaida https://www.adelaida.com/
Ancient Peaks https://ancientpeaks.com/
Austin Hope https://hopefamilywines.com/
Brecon Estate https://breconestate.com/
Calcareous https://www.calcareous.com/
Chateau Margene https://www.chateaumargene.com/
Continental Vineyards https://continentalwinecollection.com/
DAOU https://daouvineyards.com/
Dracaena Wines https://dracaenawines.com/
Field Recordings https://fieldrecordingswine.com/
Four Lanterns https://www.fourlanternswinery.com/
J. Lohr Vineyards https://www.jlohr.com/
Justin Winery https://www.justinwine.com/
Le Vigne https://www.levignewinery.com/
LXV Wine https://www.lxvwine.com/
Mid.Point https://www.midpoint.wine/
Paris Valley https://parisvalleyroad.com/
Tobin James https://www.tobinjames.com/
Union Sacre https://www.unionsacre.com/
Villa San-Juliette https://www.villasanjuliette.com/
2020 Hindsight Cabernet Sauvignon with Christmas Dinner
The Winery
Previously I have written about the Hindsight Winery in Calistoga and their excellent red wines, especially their Cabernet Sauvignon. About two years ago their long time winemaker, Jack Cole retired. Now some excellent news—they hired Michael Weis, who was the head winemaker at Groth. He is well known for making spectacular wines and I believe he received 100 points from Wine Spectator for one of his Sauvignon Blanc vintages. Additional reading about the winery and ownership can be found at:
Recently they have made arrangements for their wines to be tasted at 1124 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga at the Vault in Calistoga. Their phone number is 707-341-3321.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2020 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is made with 100% Napa Valley fruit. On the eyes it was dark and alluring one to sip. On the nose, black cherry and blackberries sprang forth with a rich boutique. On the palate the fruits “jumped with joy” in the mouth bringing back memories of excellent wines enjoyed from the region. On the finish layers of enjoyment, structure that was defined and velvety tannins provided a lingering savory finish. For $45/bottle this is truly a bargain offering such “wonderment” in a bottle. It will make my list for Best Wines tasted in the 2024 annual list (December 15th, 2023 to December 15th, 2024).
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired for our Christmas dinner of seasoned prime rib cooked to medium rare with uncut horseradish, roasted Brussel sprouts with a balsamic glaze, cheesy potatoes and garlic French bread. A delicious meal and the wine complemented the prime rib to perfection.
Sláinte,
Michael
2021 Terminim “Cépages d’ Or” – Grapes of Gold
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Terminim, a collaboration between Francois Villard and Donald Patz, produced this 2021 Cepages d’Or. Terminim is one of the wineries founded by Donald Patz in 2017. His other brands are 1) Secret Door making Cabernet Sauvignon from selected vineyards exclusively from the Napa Valley and 2) Maritana making Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines.
The man behind these three astonishing labels had this vision and energy combined with 40 years of making exquisite wines. Wine aficionados have already acknowledge his craftsmanship in bringing forth these wines and also many wine judges!
Click on links below to read more:
The Wine – 2021 Terminim Cépages d’ Or – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Cépages d’ Or means “grapes of gold”. The grapes come from Alder Springs Vineyard in Mendocino County, California. Here they combined four exquisite grapes to form a blend of golden wine (Cepages d’ Or). The four grapes were 50.4% Marsanne, 31.2% Roussanne, 9.5% Picpoul Blanc and 8.9% Viognier. This glistening golden blend provided one of the most robust and full bodied wines. The viscosity was heavy, one twirl and it stopped in its tracks! A crisp and lively wine. On the nose and mouth, a symphony of flavors burst forth every nanosecond to provide one of the most thrilling white wines in the market. Strong praise and definitely deserved.
What I enjoy about a Marsanne and Roussanne predominate mix is the interplay between these two grape varieties. The Marsanne defined by ripe pear with some lemon notes with toasted almonds. Roussanne, being complex with the distinct honey, floral and light apricot flavors. They have a characteristic oily texture and a full body that more resembles a red wine.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired with a spicy Chicken Pad Thai dish. The ingredients were ramen noodles, virgin olive oil, minced garlic, cooked chicken, eggs, bean sprouts, red bell pepper, green onions, crushed peanuts, chopped cilantro and lime juice. The Pad Thai sauce included fish sauce, soy sauce, brown sugar, rice vinegar, Sriracha (used a little extra this evening) and creamy peanut butter! Limes were plated to squeeze the juice over the top of the dish along with cilantro and extra crushed peanuts added on top.
One of the best food and wine pairings especially with this wine. In the past I have paired this dish with Chardonnay’s and dry Viognier’s and this wine provided the right amount of body and flavor to complement the Pad Thai. It will definitely make the Best Wines tasted for 2024! Timing for the Best Wines List 2024 runs from December 15th 2023 to December 15th 2024. The link to the best wines tasted in 2023 can be found at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2023/12/15/best-wines-tasted-in-2023/
Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and a Joyous New Year to all.
Sláinte,
Michael
2021 Wood Family Vineyards “Muy Bueno” Zinfandel
The Winery
Wood Family Vineyards, located in eastern Livermore Valley with Rhonda Wood owner & winemaker, has been producing award winning wines for over two decades. You can read more on her background from airline pilot to award winning winemaker at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2016/02/10/wood-family-vineyards-2/
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Being produced from one vineyard in Livermore provides a “terroir” of distinction. A dark wine in the glass with medium-heavy viscosity, yet translucent on the edges. Strong aromas of black fruits greet the imbiber followed by tastes of jammy, brightness of plums, red and black cherries and freshly picked berries providing an unparalleled juiciness of flavors. On the finish anise and black pepper notes linger along with the jammy fruit. The wine is wine 15.9% in alcohol. 560 cases were produced with the price being $40.
Rhonda adds what they call a late harvest Zinfandel into the blend to enhance the sweetness. With one lot of Zinfandel (a couple bins/barrels) they intentionally stop the fermentation (leaving it a bit sweet) and add it back into the lot at final blending (before bottling). When finalized the blend is around 2 % residual sugar which is considered off dry (intentionally a bit sweet).
Fun facts:
- Zinfandel was once known as the “Bordeaux of California” by the gold rush miners.
- The first Zinfandel grapes in California were first planted in the Oak Knoll area of Napa Valley
- Today it is still the fourth largest grape varietal planted in California.
- White Zinfandel accounts for six times the production of red Zinfandel.
- At the end of the 19th century, Zinfandel was the most planted grape in California.
- Food pairings run the gambit of BBQ ribs, grilled chicken, burgers, pizza, cheddar & smoked Gouda cheeses.
No wonder why this wine is called “Muy Bueno” or very good!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine was specifically selected for tonight’s dinner to go with a dry rubbed baked pork tenderloin. This recipe increased the spiciness than a previous one. The dry rub included chili powder, brown sugar, dried oregano, paprika, onion powder, garlic powder, Italian seasoning, fine sea salt, pepper and a little extra virgin olive oil. The slices of pork tenderloin were served with Stewart and Jasper Cherry sauce and topped with parsley. The slices of spicy pork tenderloin provided ample flavors to assimilate this off dry wine. The meal was accompanied by roasted a Yukon potato and a very large artichoke.
Sláinte,
Michael
Cabernet Franc Day, Paso Robles – Media Appreciation Dinner
Photo from LXV Wines
The night before the 2nd Annual Cab Franc Day, Paso Robles, the six sponsoring wineries provided a spectacular dinner event at Daou Vineyards. Those wineries were: LXV Wines, Daou Vineyards, J. Lohr Vineyards, Brecon Estate, Hope Family Wines and Continental Vineyards. The event was also co-sponsored by several industry companies, The Somm Journal, The Tasting Panel Magazine, Parker Sanpei Marketing & Media and Riedel.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The event started with an assortment of gourmet hors d’oeuvres and wine in the reserved members lounge. Pictured below are only two of the many that were served by the wait staff at Daou Winery.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
The event emcee was Maeve Pesquera, Sr. VP of Strategy Business Development who spoke eloquently welcoming everyone to Daou Winery.
Photo courtesy of @thebrandfoto
After some time of socializing each of the seven wineries spoke on their Cabernet Franc. Picture below is VP of Winemaking at J. Lohr, Steve Peck presenting on their wine. Each winemaker or winery representative who spoke talked about Cabernet Franc being the ideal grape suited for the Paso Robles climate and soil. The other key theme was the friendships established in the Paso Robles community who have banded together to provide mutual support in assisting each winery to flourish.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Each of the seven wineries poured their wines ahead of the dishes served so that the guests could do a compare and contrast of the various Cabernet Franc wines. Each wine provided unique and quality characteristics that were enjoyed by all. I personally have five of the seven Cabernet Franc wines in my cellar and after this event will be securing the “missing two” as all represented the best qualities of Cabernet Franc.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The first course was a squash, walnut, persimmon and apple salad. It included baharat labneh, pomegranates, candied delicta, Windrose apples, walnut vinaigrette, candied walnuts, shaved fennel and celery. The creativity and immense flavors were so appreciated by everyone.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The second unique and tasty course was a gnocchi al fungi with lamb Bolognese. The ingredients included fromage blanc, rosemary breadcrumbs and black truffle. The flavors and textures presented in this dish were absolutely beautiful.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The main entrée was Iberico Pork Secreto. This included goat gouda polenta, cherry sauce pica, braised apples and mustard greens. The presentation was much closer to a piece of art, but one bite and you realized that this specially prepare dish was heaven sent.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The dessert was nothing short of decadent! It was a chocolate cremieux that looked heavy but was light and airy with layers of delight. Personally this paired so well with all the wines and was a great conclusion to the event.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Daou estate Chef Spencer Johnston created exquisitely wonderful dishes for all to be enjoyed. Also Neeta Metta and Linda Sanpei assisted with suggestions.
Photo courtesy of @thebrandfoto
What a marvelous kickoff Saturday evening for the Cab Franc Paso Robles Symposium and wine tasting the next day.
Sláinte,
Michael
2020 Optio Vineyards Grenache – Experience One of the Best
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Met with winery owners Troy and Michelle LaMar last weekend on their 14 acre vineyard. Nine acres are currently under vine. The vineyard is located at the tail end of the Templeton district within the Geneseo District appellation. Their production is around 500 cases a year with the balance of the fruit being sold off. Their goal is to increase the production steadily with club membership and getting the word out on their quality wines. They already have won many awards including for their 2022 Chardonnay, Las Vegas Global Platinum Medal with 96 points and their 2021 Estate Tempranillo, Las Vegas Global Platinum Medal also with 96 points! This is the little winery that not only could, but has!!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Troy is a general surgeon in Los Angeles and met his wife Michelle as she was a floor nurse at the same hospital. She is now in nurse education. Today with their son LT, they spend as much time as possible on the estate. Their winemaker is Aaron Jackson from Tin City with 23 years making gorgeous wines. Aaron’s background includes Four Vines, ONX and Saxum wineries. He earned his Wine & Viticulture degree from Cal Poly San Luis Obispo and spent a year in Australia where he earned a Master’s degree in Oenology.
The winery today produces Chardonnay, Inmesceo (meaning blend together of Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvedre, Syrah and Petite Sirah), Grenache, Tempranillo and Petite Sirah. Had the opportunity to taste each one (a few with different vintages) and uniquely different was that each one was a solid and exceptional wine. Not a so-so or average wine in their offering. Rare and very much appreciated and I am sure by their customers.
The name Optio comes from the Latin word meaning “choice” which has paid off for the LaMar family. Troy while in medical school his first day heard a professor quote William Jennings Bryan “Destiny is not a matter of chance; it is a matter of choice; it is not a thing to be waited for; it is a thing to be achieved.” Literally and physically, the little vineyard on top of the hill, has climbed up it to achieve many excellent wines.
More information on their wines and vineyards can be found in a previous story at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2023/12/07/optio-vineyards-the-little-winery-that-can/
The Wine 2020 Optio Vineyards Grenache – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This style of Grenache is old world with layers of rich flavors and juicy, rustic tannins. On the eyes, a very dark blood red coloring with medium-full viscosity. On the nose aromas of plum blueberries, new leather, and clove waft into the senses. On the palate you are awakened to a lively and enjoyable juicy cherry followed by a complex finish of fig, licorice, molasses, and black cherry with hints of spices and dried herbs. The finish shows the earthy minerality and earthiness of these grapes. They use 100% neutral oak barrels and aged 17 months. Only 75 cases were produced. This is one of the best Grenache wines I have experienced! The price is $58/bottle and worth every long lasting sip.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was selected this evening to help tame down the spiciness in this entrée. A baked Mexican chicken breast covered with medium hot salsa and plated with shredded jack cheese and slices of jalapeño peppers. Accompanied by corn, sautéed asparagus & mushrooms slices and brown rice. This refreshing and lively wine paired exquisitely with the meal. Enjoyed one glass with the meal and another after dinner. The spiciness of the wine came across even stronger with the food element.
The wine made my annual list of Best Wines Tasted during the year (published as https://californiawinesandwineriesdotcom.wordpress.com/2023/12/15/best-wines-tasted-in-2023/). I left the winery with four bottles and wished I had purchased a few more!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Sláinte,
Michael
2023 J.Lohr Vineyards and Wines – Massive and Quality All in One!
Background
Met the VP of Winemaking, Steve Peck over one year ago during a conversation of all things Saint Macaire wine. We continued our conversation off and on during the subsequent year. I admittedly cut my teeth almost 45 years ago on J. Lohr 375ml of Chenin Blanc. But after those years, never again had another J. Lohr wine. At our initial conversation a year ago, Steve informed me that J. Lohr had an offering of some very higher end and delicious wines and invited me next time in Paso Robles to visit him at the winery. I am writing this story based upon Steve Peck’s incredible education of a native wine aficionado and very much thank him for his tutelage. I hope others may gleam some insight also on J. Lohr wines.
History
Fifty years ago Jerry Lohr with little viticulture background ventured to California and found two areas that he thought could produce good wines: Monterey coast and Paso Robles. Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco had the cool windy climate and rocky soils necessary to produce excellent Chardonnay. Ten years later in the 1980’s, he also realized Paso Robles was well suited for producing Bordeaux varietals with rich soils and large diurnal temperature swings between the warm summer days and the cooling breezes from the nearby Pacific Ocean.
Fast forward, the growth of vineyards and planting was steadfastly adhered to with incremental acquisitions of property. Today over 1,400 acres are planted in Arroyo Seco and Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey County with a focus on Chardonnay, Riesling, Valdiguié, and Pinot Noir. Now add the 2,700 acres of vineyards in Paso Robles planted and producing Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux and Rhone varietals. J.Lohr winery also owns 30 acres in Napa Valley producing Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Jerry’s vision has become a reality, producing some solid and award winning wines with it now still being run as a family business.
One of many distinctions separating J.Lohr is their conscientious “farming for the future”. 2023 marks thirteen years since and continuously, J.Lohr became the first vineyard and winery in California to earn the Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing from California Sustainable winegrowing Alliance (CSWA). Detailed information can be found on their website.
Tasting Room
Photo ©Michael Kelly
When we arrived at the tasting room we were warmly greeted by Jasmine Jia who was expecting us. We then sat down with Steve at the tasting room located at 6169 Airport Road in Paso Robles. Having visited so many monumental tasting rooms in northern California, I was at first taken back by the “low key and homey” atmosphere of the tasting room. But that was all about to change!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
As we sat down to discuss J.Lohr Winery, Steve in a nonchalant but proud manner proceeded through a line-up of wines, discussing the properties and why each contributed unique characteristics by elevation, warmth and wind variables. I was mesmerized by his knowledge of viticulture, vineyard management, wine production, etc.
Photo courtesy of Jasmine Jia
We started off the appointment with two white wines, a 2022 J.Lohr F&B Pinot Blanc made in a 550 gallon concrete egg then aged in stainless steel as a prerequisite to our discussion. Next up was the 2022 J. Lohr Arroyo Vista Chardonnay. The discussion could not be framed without understanding the area from where each vineyard is located and its contribution to the flavors we were about to taste.
Photo from J.Lohr map ©Michael Kelly
Showing the vineyards on the Paso Robles AVA map gave a very detailed understanding on the vineyards ranging from the far northern portion like Snowden & Jones vineyards to the southern portion like Beck Vineyard. A deep dive into the elevation changes, 1200 feet elevation (Rain Catcher) to 1700 feet elevation Beck and subsequent soil types made a fascinating conversation. Added to this was the wind direction, low elevation gaps which allow the cooling winds with their effects was like listening to a PhD professor at college. Steve presented all of this without hesitation or a written note to be found, a truly remarkable display of his working knowledge.
While five reds were on the tasting menu, we only got to two as the conversation was so long lasting!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The first being the 2019 POM Cuvee which was a blend of 74% Merlot, 18% Malbec, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Cabernet Franc. The POM comes from the Grand Cru wines of Pomerol in Bordeaux on the Right Bank. Beautiful cherry and blueberry were dominated on the taste buds along with a soft finish.
The second wine in the lineup was the 2019 J.Lohr St.E which was absolutely delicious! 66% Cabernet Franc, 28% Cabernet Franc and 6% Merlot. The inspiration behind the St E label is for St. Emilion on the Right Bank. Black fruit with velvety tannins provided a long lasting finish and stated to age up to 13 years.
The third on the list was for 2020 J.Lohr PAU with inspiration from the Grand Cru wines of Pauillac district in Bordeaux. Mainly composed of of Cabernet Sauvignon with small portions of other Bordeaux varietal wines to provide structure and layering, resulting in texture and complexity.
The fourth being the 2021 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon that was rated 95 points and comes from their vineyard in Napa Valley. It spent 18 months in 54% new French oak barrels. It is listed to age for 12 years. A donation is made by J. Lohr Winery of $3 for every bottle sold to the National Breast Cancer Foundation program.
The fifth and final wine was their 2015 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon that was aged 20 months in 100% new French oak barrels. This is consider Jerry Lohr’s embodiment reflecting his decades providing his best wine to be enjoyed. It has received 98 points and is comprised of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Malbec.
The conversations during the tasting ranged from aging in puncheons with a larger wood to air ratio, picking Cabernet Franc at 27/28 brix’s to allow sugar development and releasing the color, their hotel/retail sales reaching 1.5M cases a year, another 300,000 cases of artisan wines produced for the wine club, their yearly barrel purchasing program averaging $8.5 million annually, and so many other fascinating factoids on J. Lohr Winery. The conversation was so intense, we actually only got to taste the first three red wines and forgot to taste the last two red premier wines! Also forgot to take a picture of Steve during the tasting but had taken one from two nights prior at dinner celebrating the Cab Franc Paso Robles while he was exhorting the value of J. Lohr Winery.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Facility/Production Area
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Steve had another commitment and arranged a tour of their facility/production by their head red winemaker, Brenden Wood. We started out the tour viewing one room housing some large tanks. In total they have 5 million gallons of tank capacity at the Paso Robles winery. This includes tanks in their Bottle Ready Tank Farm, the blending room and the Fermentation buildings which we later toured. The majority of the tanks, about 140 of them, are fermentation tanks. Our fermentation tanks range in size from 6 ton capacity to 44 ton capacity. The multitude of tanks gives us the ability to pick and ferment each vineyard block from their ranches separately. In turn, this allows them to fine-tune color, aroma, tannins and flavor extraction for each block separately before blending, which ultimately leads to a better wine in the bottle.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We then traveled to see one of the three barrel storage areas with this picture being just the right and side of one. On the premises in Paso Robles approximately 55,000 barrels of wine are quietly resting! They also have another 35,000 barrels in Monterey. They have roughly a $7.0M barrel budget annually which is about 12,000 new barrels.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
They have 8 x 145,000 gallons tanks in their Bottle Ready Tank Farm (BRTF). Each tank holds the equivalent of 60,000 cases. These tanks hold their 7 Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon after it has been aged in 100% American Oak barrels for a minimum of 1 year (18% new American oak). The 7 Oaks Cab is literally ready to bottle and has already been blended and fine-tuned with Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Malbec and the other Bordeaux varieties that they grow. On the far side of the tanks is a scale where “juice tankers” are pulled up to weight and waiting to take the juice to San Jose which is their bottle plant where they can bottle 6,500-8,000 cases a day.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
They are setting up their own bottling facility on the premises which should be up and running in 2024. Additionally almost all the power, approximately 75-85% is generated for this enormous operation comes from their 4 acres of solar panels beyond the large outdoor tanks.
Conclusion
Conclusion is most likely a misnomer as J.Lohr Winery is ever evolving. Perhaps better phrased as a snapshot of who J. Lohr Winery was the day of our visit as it is constantly changing. We spoke about their line of de-alcohol wines targeting what I refer to as the “Alphabet generations” (Gen X, Y, Z and Millennials) and many more subjects and projects coming down the road.
Most impressive was that Steve was able to “enlighten and educate” me on the vastness, depth and quality of J. Lohr Winery and its rich history in Paso Robles and Monterey. I walked away with a deep understanding and appreciation that J.Lohr is a serious wine producer beyond their retail line of wines, which by the way fulfill a large niche for the consumer.
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Maritana Vineyards “Le Russe” Pinot Noir – A Case of Mistaken Identity Pulled from the Cellar
I will explain the mistaken identity later in the story.
The Winery
(Donald Patz standing in Shop Block with Hansen Hill behind him)
Maritana Vineyards is one of the wineries founded by Donald Patz in 2017. The Maritana label is dedicated to making Russian River Valley Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. His other brands are 1) Secret Door making Cabernet Sauvignon from selected vineyards exclusively from the Napa Valley and 2) Terminim making Mendocino County Marsanne/Roussanne and Syrah wines.
The man behind these three astonishing labels has had this vision and energy combined with 40 years of making exquisite wines. Wine aficionados have already acknowledge his craftsmanship in bringing forth these wines and also many wine judges!
Click on links below to read more:
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I have consistently used the analogy of Pinot Noirs to a professional ballerina. This Pinot Noir is graceful, elegant, and powerful and possesses an appreciation of the strength/finesse of a ballerina. This wine has received 95 to points from Robert Parker, but with age will only improve. “Le Russe” means Russian as the wine comes from the Russian River Valley known for the exquisite Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This picture is from a previous story written on the 2018 “Le Russe” Pinot Noir. It captures the power and beauty of this wine and also reminds me of the wafting fragrance.
On the eyes, a crisp purple/red hues are striking with a slight translucence. On the nose, aromas of cherry and strawberries first awaken the senses. The enticement to sip compelling, beckoning one to seek that first sip. Upon the first taste, the palate is greeted with raspberry, strawberry, cinnamon and a hint of nutmeg. Soft and velvety tannins embrace the long lasting almost perpetual finish.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
If you have read this far, you now will understand why the title of this article. It was a case of mistaken identity as both Maritana Chardonnay & Pinot Noir share the same label design. I mistakenly did not look at the label as I had stored in the cellar listing it (again incorrectly) as a Chardonnay! I opened the wine and began pouring it and it was red to my surprise and not glistening gold!
The meal this evening was going to be a simple wintery “comfort food” of a new recipe found called Grilled Three Cheese Sandwiches with Mustard Aioli. Some effort was expended in finding the cheeses having to go to separate stores finding them! Served with a mustard aioli on the side. So this was a purposed wine and meal dinner to be enjoyed with a delicious Maritana Chardonnay. “Mea culpa” to my wife and Donald Patz!
The cheeses used were a Board’s Head Fontina, a Red Apple Smoked Gruyere (Wisconsin) and a Monterey Jack cheese. The sandwich was very good, a bit “plain tasting” but a Chardonnay would have gone excellent with this! The Pinot Noir was so delicious but a too sharp a contrast with the cheeses. One positive note from the evening’s food & wine pairing was next time, besides double checking and selecting the correct wine, was to substitute smoked Gouda and perhaps add a smidgen of minced jalapeño peppers or other spices into the cheeses to increase the flavor.
Sláinte,
Michael
California Wines & Wineries 