Month: May 2023
2011 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon
The Winery
This came up on the 2023 “To Drink List” over last weekend. While admittedly having more than “a few bottles” of Crocker & Starr in the cellar, I have been patiently waiting to open many of them. This was again such a wonderful tasting wine and confirmed why we were wine club members there for ten years!
I did a previous story on the excellent partnership and friendship between Pam Starr and Charlie Crocker many years ago for more details click:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2016/02/01/crocker-starr-2/
The Wine
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Pam Starr has always made some of the best Cabernet Franc’s and Cabernet Sauvignon’s in Napa Valley. Her 2011 Stone Place Cabernet Sauvignon is no exception! She added about 5% Petit Verdot which is easily seen in the wine glass with its bright ruby coloring. It has a medium to medium heavy viscosity as seen in a few swirls of the goblet. On the nose aromas rise up of floral notes of violet and espresso. On the palate the wine provides wide reaching tastes of dark chocolate, raspberries, spicy black pepper, plum, pipe tobacco and black licorice. The finish is where gentle oak and minerality come into play, with a faint hint of vanilla to entice one to take yet another sip of this intoxicating Cabernet Sauvignon. The tannins are present but not obtrusive and the structure shows layer upon layers of distinction.
The current release of this wine is the 2019 coming out in the Fall of 2023 and will sell for $195/bottle.
Sláinte,
Michael
2021 Wood Family Vineyards Cabernet Franc
The Wine
The Wood Family Vineyards Cabernet Franc on the eyes is a dark ruby red/purple and medium heavy viscosity. On the nose blackberry and cherry were dominant. On the palate, plum and caramel pipe tobacco engulfed the mouth with a hint of milk chocolate. The finish is medium with soft edges and extremely smooth with an earthiness, an absence of any strong pyrazines (bell pepper) made for a soft and smooth landing and lingering finish with a hint of vanilla. The tannins and acidity could not have been more balanced than a funambulist! A great food and wine pairing varietal with a broad range of foods and even nicknamed and referred to as “the utility player” of wine varietals by Michael Kelly. Ideal serving temperature is 67 to 70 degrees. Alcohol is 14.4 % and listed at the winery at $42/bottle. 571 cases were produced. Available in early July, 2023.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Paired with a BBQ’d boneless ribeye steak served medium rare, fresh potato salad and a chopped Italian salad. The wine had sufficient tannins and acidity to “cut the steak” beautifully. A match made in heaven! This wine will make my annual Best Wines Tasted for 2023.
Sláinte,
Michael
2021 Wood Family Vineyards Merlot – Which cheese, fruit or vegetable paired best?
Paul Giamatti, the character in the movie “Sideways” and his disdain of Merlot almost killed this wondrous grape varietal in California. Yet this 2021 Merlot is one fierce wine and not a weak or wimpy Merlot. The color in the glass is your first clue this is a different Merlot. The color is dark purple and intriguing with a medium heavy viscosity on the eyes. On the nose, chocolate covered berries, strawberries and vanilla waft into the senses. On the palate, it is a bit of a paradox as this is both your warm and cuddling drink that is relaxing and comforting to sip. Yet you are awakened with the first sip to an explosive mouthful of Bing cherries, plums, defined and silky tannins with subtle earthy tones of bramble and minerality. The finish has a textual feel and a complex layered structure continues to enhance the wine drinker. The words chewy and masculine almost come to mind in describing this beautiful wine. While having so many brawny characteristics, it still presents on the finish as elegant and charming. This is a Merlot to absolutely enjoy today with or without food. Alcohol is 13.7 % with only 241 cases produced. Price is $36/bottle and will be released July 9th, 2023.
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Aridus Tempranillo – A Quick Visit to Spain via Arizona!
The Winery
Recently I published two other stories on the Aridus Wine Company in Willcox, Arizona. Scott and Joan Dahmer founded the winery in 2012. Willcox is located about 85 miles east of Tucson and makes some remarkable estate wines! Click on the links for more details on the winery:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2023/05/24/2020-aridus-viognier-a-summertime-refreshing-wine/
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
One of my personal favorite wines is the Spanish varietal Tempranillo. The name comes from the Spanish word temprano, which means “early” as it ripens earlier than other grapes in Spain. If you have visited any town in Spain, Tempranillo is available as ubiquitously as Starbucks coffee shops here in the USA. Today, 80% of the world’s Tempranillo is grown in Spain, and is most common in the Rioja, Navarra, Douro, and Ribera del Duero regions.
This wine is a varietal blend with 86% Tempranillo and 14% Graciano. The wine is aged in a mix of neutral and second-fill American and French oak barrels for 28 months. On the eyes this wine is a brilliant purple and ruby color with medium to medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose, it starts out fresh, lively and with vibrant black/red berry fruits. On the palate, cherry, dried fig and vanilla pipe tobacco greet the mouth. The tannins are mildly strong and the acidity is medium which cuts through both red meats and red tomato sauces. The finish provides some earthiness (dust), aged leather, oak and tartness which counterbalances the fruit exquisitely. The alcohol level is 14.3% and 308 cases were produced. Their website shows it selling for $50/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Our Friday Night Wine & Dine group met at Verona18 to enjoy a meal together as many have been traveling or out of town. Pulled this wine out to have with the spaghetti Bolognese but two specials caught my attention.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The first being a featured appetizer of Mexican Style Ceviche with marinated Petrale sole, scallops, marinated shrimp, cucumber, tomato, lemon-lime juice, avocado and served with tortilla chips. While perhaps not the best coordination with the wine, the main dish was indeed a good fit.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
That was a pepperoni pizza cooked in their outdoor fire roasted pizza oven. The red sauce and pepperoni were a perfect match for the wine. Again Executive Chef Jaime Alderete has perfected the sauce for his oven roasted pizzas!
This now makes four varietals of Aridus Wine Company that I can wholeheartedly recommend: 2019 Tempranillo Limited Release, 2016 Cabernet Franc Barrel Select, 2020 Viognier and 2019 Syrah.
Sláinte,
Michael
2021 LVVC Wood Family Vineyards Blend – A Symphony in a Bottle!
The Winery and Background on LVVC
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The background on the Livermore Valley Vintner’s Collective (LVVC) started out with six small family run wineries with a purpose. Livermore Valley Vintners Collective is a group of highly motivated and creative winemakers residing in the Livermore Valley. Driven by collaboration and inspiration, the group decided to begin a winemaking project. At the core were a few central questions: What would happen if you give a group of winemakers a framework of varietals and ask them to make a wine. One that is totally unique, accessible and interesting. A representation of the specified grapes from the appellation, but with the fingerprints of each personality. Would you end up with similar wines? Would they be drastically different? Other rules apply like not have any more than 50% being new barrels, no one varietal can exceed 20%, etc. Check out the LVCC website at: https://www.lvvc.net/
This review is on the Wood Family Vineyards LVVC 2020 release.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This is a blend of five varietals each composing 20% of the total featuring: Grenache, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petite Sirah. This wine is a kindred spirit to a typical symphony with four movements. The first addressing the mind, the second targeting the heart, the third a wake call with up tempo music and the fourth/final movement a strong and powerful, stirring and cheerful rendition of the previous movements. So it is with Wood Family Vineyards LVCC Red Blend. It starts off focused on the intellect trying to dissect varying and contrasting flavors of Grenache (bright cherry, ripe fruit, licorice), Cabernet Franc (medium body, herbs, pepper, earthiness) and Cabernet Sauvignon (robust, chewy, leather). The second movement is the heart of the blend, flavors and aromas bursting with flavors of cocoa, and velvety tannins. The third movement is the wakeup call focused on easy to drink Cabernet Franc contrasting to the robust chewy tannins of Cabernet Sauvignon. The final crescendo pulling it all together, is the combination of red fruits, coffee, herbs, blackberry and layers upon layers of opulence and exuberance picking up all the nuances of the various components. Alcohol is 14.7 % and listed at the winery at $45/bottle. It will be released June 24th.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with an Italian sausage, garlic & herb sauce and whole wheat spaghetti noodles. The wine with its varying profiles of tannins and acidity managed the red sauce perfectly. A delightful food and wine pairing. This wine was extremely enjoyable with this dish. The wine will make my annual Best Wines Tasted in the year for 2023.
Sláinte,
Michael
2020 Aridus Viognier – A Summertime Refreshing Wine
The Winery
First thing right up front is most don’t think of Arizona as a “winery state”! Turns out Arizona has over 120 wineries scattered throughout the state. Aridus is located in southeastern Arizona in Willcox, about 85 miles east of Tucson in Cochise County. The town of Willcox has 14 different tasting rooms!
(Picture from City of Willcox)
Scott and Joan Dahmer founded Aridus Wine Company in 2012, just outside the city of Willcox. The name Aridus, comes from the Latin word meaning “dry or arid”, appropriate for most people’s idea of Arizona.
The winery/crush facility and tasting room are located in two different locations in Willcox. They also have another tasting room in Scottsdale on Main Street. Their yearly production is approximately 2,500 cases. They have an amazing lineup of different varietals available including: whites including Malvasia Bianca, Viognier, Chardonnay, Fume Blanc and Muscat. Reds include Merlot, Mourvèdre, Graciano, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Petite Verdot and Montepulciano, as well as several Rosés. The winemaker, Lisa Strid has produced wine for the last seven years at the winery. During this time, she has produced 183 wines from five different growing regions in Arizona, New Mexico and California. Since 2020, Aridus is now making wine exclusively from its estate vineyard
The Wine
An interesting wine in that it was made in sandstone jars, which provided a more defined and clearer expression of fruit. On the eyes, a light golden color and medium viscosity. On the nose, rich floral aromatics, along with peach and pear waft into the senses. On the palate, stone fruits of pear and apricot and a beautiful weightiness fills the mouth. The finish is lingering with orange blossom and honeysuckle. This is a premier summertime wine to be enjoyed with the upcoming warm weather. The price is $48/bottle and alcohol level is 14.6%.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Chosen to pair with a simple Caesar salad, with fresh Parmesan slices and pepper this evening as we just concluded an appetizers/wines event with nine separate items (see story at https://www.facebook.com/mkellywine?__cft__[0]=AZXewOq8t-YawsnyjYDXJ9mjdgrD41ytuQY_GK1-DnmIonS2ZqVGbf02phDIoWQD7sgI_ojt5irh84QlSRL8UuCnHjiKLmHPQfot2GAEiQZ66OKkPFwgEucCL2g-yPDXCvr60ObiiB5KwaoIBY4CCng8OeRyCuh3_7ndIi1k48j7Iw&__tn__=-UC%2CP-R). On this warm evening this was a perfectly enjoyable wine with a light salad. This now makes three Aridus wines that I can without hesitation recommend: 2016 Barrel Select Cabernet Franc, 2020 Graciano and the 2020 Viognier.
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Cuda Ridge Wines Mélange d’ Amis Reserve – A Truly Remarkable Blend
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
There is a lot to be said about Cuda Ridge Wines in Livermore, California with Larry Dino as the winemaker and his wife Margie as chief wine taster. They produce Bordeaux style wines. The Cuda Ridge Wines tasting room is located at 2400 Arroyo Road in Livermore, California. Cuda Ridge Wines current production is approximately 2100 cases. They produce the following Bordeaux varietals: Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and most recently their addition of Carménère. Always experimenting, Larry Dino also has produced non-Bordeaux style wines which are designated under their Black label, these wines include Sangiovese, New-World style Cabernet Sauvignon and others. Each varietal produced are small lots ranging from 100 – 450 cases. Cuda Ridge does extensive blending of the varietals and strives for lower alcohol wines with intense complexity and character, traditional of the Bordeaux style wines
The Wine 2019 Mélange d’ Amis
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The name translates as “blended by friends”. Larry set out to make a Saint-Émilion style blend with enjoyable drinking characteristics. Without a lot of background on Saint-Émilion it was the first vineyard to be named on the World Heritage List for having over two thousand years of vineyards and wine production. The “terroir” is vast with a complex geology (sands, clay, limestone…) and a microclimate that is perfectly suited for winemaking in the Bordeaux region. Larry has captured the essence of the area in this wine.
The blend consists of 64% White Cat Vineyard Cabernet Franc, 30% One Oak Vineyard Merlot and 6% Smith Ranch Petit Verdot. On the eyes a deep lush red and purple entices the eyes and medium viscosity. On the nose, bright and lively red and dark fruits waft into the senses. However on the palate, is where this wine shines and reflects its heritage from France. A bold and hearty wine, but smooth like a recently paved highway with defined velvety tannins. Blackberry and cherry flavors caress the mouth and delight in providing such a carefully crafted wine. The finish was medium long with freshness and providing a clean ending.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine has deservedly won the following awards:
*Gold Medal – 2022 SF Chronicle Wine Competition
*Gold Medal – 2021 Orange County Fair
*Best of Show & Double Gold Medal – 2023 International Cabernet Franc Competition
On the website, the wine is listed $61/bottle and is 13.9 % alcohol.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was paired with a seared BBQ’ed Filet Mignon steak at 1200 degrees and served medium rare. Accompanying the meal was a fresh garden salad, a large artichoke and cauliflower stir fry with various vegetables. The steak was topped off with a dollop of Bleu cheese and chive butter. Each bite of the steak and sip of the Mélange d’ Amis was a beautiful pairing.
Even Saint-Émilion, whom the town is named after, living the life of a religious hermit, accomplishing a few miracles in and around the area, would have considered this worthy of his praise in the tradition of his miracles! This wine will make my annual “Best Wines Tasted in the year” for this year (published in December).
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Shale Canyon ZSM – Yes ZSM!
The Winery
(View of vineyard from above Shale Canyon. Photo from Shale Canyon)
So who are the owners/winemakers of Shale Canyon Wines? They are a two man show with Keith Prader and his brother Tim. The responsibilities are for Keith to handle the winemaking, software, sales and marketing. Tim handles the vineyard management, facilities manager and tasting room manager. For the last two years, Keith has been the winemaker. While lines of responsibilities may be drawn, each can and do fill in any and all needs of running a small two man winery. While this area receives about 13 inches of rain per year, they have gone 100% solar power for their operation and today are one of two wineries working completely off the gird.
Formed Shale Canyon in 2007, their property is 375 acres with only 7 acres planted in vineyard. Their first production was 2008. On the estate property they have planted besides Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel. Keith mentioned to me that on the estate grapes, they drop a lot of fruit and target about 3 tons per acre. Flavor profile is key and dropping fruit allows more “flavor per grape” (FPG). They have sourced grapes for their Chardonnay, Malbec and Syrah. In 2018 they produced about 1,000 cases and today produce approximately 1500 cases. Looking out in time to 2025 they believe they will be between 2000 to 2500 cases maximum.
(Photo from Shale Canyon)
You can experience their wines at their tasting room in Carmel-by-the-Sea, Paseo San Carlos, west side of San Carlos between Ocean and Seventh. They are open daily from 12 to 6 pm. They offer some unique wines like a 100% Mourvèdre and Tempranillo, two varietals uncommon for Monterey County.
The Wine
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine was given to me by Keith Prader at the recent 4th International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition & Celebration at the Wine Stroll. Keith mentioned that he thought it was the best wine he has made! A strong statement as his Cabernet Franc racks up awards every year! While tasting it at the Wine Stroll, it deserved a more in-depth examination even by someone like me who is not overly fond of blends. This is a rather unique blend being 48% Estate Zinfandel, 32% Arroyo Seco Syrah and 20% Estate Mourvèdre.
On the eyes a lush dark coloring most likely from the Zinfandel and Syrah varietals. It had a medium to medium heavy viscosity. Here is where it got a bit tricky. I pulled the wine out of the cellar about 30 minutes before the meal. So at first on the nose, it possessed a strong aroma of blackberry and herbal notes. About one hour later, the aroma on the nose was softer and more sensual. On the palate, the flavor profile was a collection of the best of the three varietals: Zinfandel for espresso & vanilla, Syrah for pepper, blueberry and mocha flavors, and Mourvedre with plum and bramble earthy but soft notes. The finish initially had some strong and defined tannins, but again after an hour or two, it very much mellowed out. A long finish of smokiness and leather was very enjoyable. The secret I believe to fully enjoy and appreciate the wine, it to let this one breathe or decant before drinking. This is definitely no version of a mellower GSM, it truly was a hearty wine. The wine goes for $55/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Initially pulled this wine out thinking it was going to be more like a mellow GSM to go with a pork chop. The error was as explained above, right out of the cellar, this was a bold and strong bottle of wine (and very good for our personal profile), but it overwhelmed the pork chop. Operator error on my part! Accompanying the meal was a half potato, broccoli and fresh garden salad. While the food was delicious and the wine spot on with depth and character, self-confession, the pairing was not one of the finest.
This makes three wines from Shale Canyon that I would not hesitate to buy: Cabernet Franc, Consortium and ZSM.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.shalecanyonwines.com/
Ledson Winery – 2019 Cabernet Franc Grand Sweepstakes Winner, 4th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition
The Winery
Photo from Ledson Winery Website
The story begins in England in 1896 and is detailed on the website https://ledson.com/discover-ledson/history/ . It is a tale of hard work, family ties and a desire to do more for the community. Steve Ledson’s history is both unique and common—unique with background and successful venture and common with family ties. His demeanor and casual manner speaks volumes.
The Castle is the official tasting room of Ledson Winery and the architecture and construction alone are worth the visit! Ledson Winery offers the largest premium wine portfolio of any family owned winery in the United States. Today their offering numbers more than 70 wines annually! More information on Ledson Winery can be found at:
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo from Sonoma County Visit Widget LLC
The wine comes from one of the smaller AVA’s in Sonoma County, Moon Mountain. Here is a map showing the area which has elevations from 200 feet to 2200 feet. From this vineyard you can see San Francisco some 50 miles away!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine, the 2019 Ledson Cabernet Franc, Moon Mountain District, won the 2023 International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition Grand Sweepstakes by the People’s Choice Judges. This was their first time entering the event and did they do it in style. They also won Double Gold Medals and Best of Best of Show/Division and Best of Class/Division!!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine on eyes was a deep and royal purple with a bright red rim and medium heavy viscosity. The aromas were intensely vivid with strawberry and mocha. On the palate, this wine simply “broke out from the herd” with flavors so distinct and desirous of blackberry and raspberry. The wine was so well balanced with fresh dark fruits and counterbalanced with pyrazines (bell pepper) and vanilla. As a wine connoisseur of Cabernet Franc for over 40 years, this is the highest rated Cabernet Franc I have experienced! If you want to understand the enormity and essence of Cabernet Franc, this is one of the best!
It was aged 30 months in French oak barrels, with 35% being new. Only 206 cases were produced and it sells for $98/bottle. A truly special bottle of wine from Ledson Winery & Vineyards.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dinner with this wine was a special Carne Asada. The ingredients included, fresh chopped Serrano peppers (3 with seeds) rather than Jalapeño peppers , olive oil, soy sauce, fresh squeezed orange and lime juice, minced garlic cloves, ground cumin, Kosher salt, ground black pepper marinated for 24 hours with a flank steak. The steak was seared on the BBQ with an infrared ceramic burner at between 1200 to 1400 degrees for about 3-4 minutes a side along with Serranto peppers roasting on top of the steak. Topped off with fresh minced cilantro, fresh marinade sauce and a modicum of fresh squeezed lime juice. Accompanying the meal was a corn salad with fresh minced onions, quartered cherry tomatoes and feta cheese. The Carne Asada was flavorful and spicy with a little more punch than using Jalapeño peppers. This is now one of our go to summer food pairings! Obviously this just made my “Best Wines Tasted This Year” (comes out each December).
This Cabernet Franc with its fruit surrounded the spicy meat and cooled it off to be absolutely a wonderful pairing.
Sláinte,
Michael
2020 Bodega Colomé Estate Malbec – Argentina’s Oldest Continually Producing Winery
The Winery
Photo from Bodega Colomé
Bodega Colomé was founded in 1831. In 2001 it was acquired by Donald and Ursula Hess. He had explored the well-known Mendoza Valley, but when he visited the northern Argentinian province of Salta, the high Calchaquí Valleys. Donald was taken back with the brilliant sunlight and excellent terroir. The vision was to make the finest high altitude wines in the world. Coupled with sustainable practices in the vineyard, they have produced a “special wine”. Today it is run by the second generation, Larissa and Christoph Ehrbar.
Today they produce various red wines: Tannat, Bonnard, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and single designated Malbec wines. Additionally they also make a Malbec blend which this story is about. Only one white wine is produced, Torrontes.
Another unique characteristic of their vineyards is the elevation. High elevation vineyards tend to receive more direct and concentrate sunlight. For example for every 1,000 feet gain in elevation, the level of UV rays increase by 10-12%. This forces the fruit to develop thicker skin, leading to greater color concentration and tannins.
Today the CEO/General Manager is Matthieu Naef and the head winemaker is Thibaut Delmotte.
The Wine – 2020 Bodega Colomé Estate Malbec
Photo ©Michael Kelly
They created this wine from four unique terroirs of Colomé. Using vineyards of differing altitudes (1700, 2300, 2600 and 3111 meters), they were able to pull specific characteristics from each as explained in their words “La Brava vineyard (1700 meters) yields intense ripe fruit, Colomé vineyard (2300 meters) lends complexity and weight, El Arenal vineyard (2700 meters) gives elegance and freshness to the blend, and Altura Máxima (3100 meters) the highest vineyard in the world gives floral and mineral notes while adding fine grain tannins to this a truly remarkable assemblage.” This Malbec is uniquely different than most found in the Mendoza region, let alone blended from different high altitude vineyards.
On the eyes an almost black/purplish/deep red color and medium heavy viscosity. On the nose, aromas of blackberries, cherry and floral notes beckon your first sip. Once on the palate, red & black fruits with minerality, pepper and oak notes abound. On the finish, a combination of controlled tannins and acidity are present but not overwhelming. This leads to a well-structured, complex and fascinating drinking experience.
The wine is 100% Malbec. It was aged 15 months using French oak barrels and held 6 months in the bottle. It sells for between $20-22/bottle and is a bargain for such a delicious wine. This will make my Best Wines Tasted for 2023 in the International category, especially for being around $20.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired with a Filet Mignon cooked in a “Traeger like BBQ” using cherry wood pellets to a perfectly medium rare finish. Accompanied with rice and fresh Caesar salad.
Can’t wait to try their Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah high altitude wines!
Sláinte,
Michael
California Wines & Wineries 