Month: October 2023
5th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition – Early Bird Registration until Dec 15th
Who is this event for? For the 5th Annual Cabernet Franc Celebration, we have opened it up to both domestic and international producers of Cabernet Franc. Last year we had seven states and four countries participating in the event representing some 78 wines. Also it is for both those producing a Cabernet Franc varietal wine and for Cabernet Franc blends being 50% Cabernet Franc or higher.
Why hold this event? It is to show the uniqueness and versatility of Cabernet Franc and to celebrate the wine as so much more than a blending grape. As Steven Kent Mirassou stated “Cabernet Franc, in its purest form, is all about sex. From the silkiness of its texture, to the exoticism of its aromas; from the raciness of its acidity to its emotion-prodding “it-ness”, Cabernet Franc is terrifyingly and wonderfully naughty”. Cabernet Franc has adapted and transformed its personality from Chile, France, Canada, the east coast of the US, the Michigan peninsula, the Midwest and the west coast of the US.
How will the competition be judged? The event will be a blind tasting using the “Danish System”, sometimes called the group method. Unique to this event, two separate judging stations will be set up. The first will comprise of Professional Judges and the second being the People’s Choice Judges (serious consumers). Each set of Judges will award medals and award Best of Class and Best of Show based on geographic regions. Last year we had Divisions of Northwest (Oregon/Washington), Eastern United States (Virginia, NY, Michigan, etc.), International and California (by price categories).
Who are the judges? Tom Bender has agreed once again to head up the Professional Judging Panel(s). Tom has headed up the California Sierra Foothill Competition for over 35 years, served on California State Fair Judges, is a well-known writer for various wine magazines and teaches at a local college. Other judges include Mike Dunne retired food editor, wine columnist for the Sacramento Bee, distinguished judge at San Francisco Chronicle and other events, Fran Cunniffe a DipWSET and certified Sommelier, Tana Cole winemaker from Sonoma Valley, Napa & Lodi AVA’s, Dr. Elizabeth Smith award-winning wine writer, a judge at various judging events and Winelovers Wine Awards in Budapest and the 2023 Open Balkan Wine Trophy in Belgrade and and others with WSET I, II and III qualifications. People Choice’s Judges are astute individuals with years of experienc. All judges are prepared with extensive documentation and profiles on Cabernet Franc’s characteristics from various geographic areas in advance. Each wine is judged on its own terroir characteristics.
Benefits for wineries participating? National exposure from California Wines and Wineries website which will run a full feature article on those receiving Best of Class and Best of Show (domestic and international). The story will also be sent to eighty blogs for reposting and all social media for a readership reach of over 500,000. Additionally it will be submitted to two magazines with a reach of an additional 500,000 readership if reprinted. The Best of Show winners will also be featured on the Cabernet Franc Day site, a Facebook blog and a podcast featured by Exploring the Wine Glass. And California Wines and Wineries will do a feature article on each Grand Sweepstakes winners. Last year we had two newspapers (both hard copy and electronically) cover the event. Klearcut Media (Texas) has been invited to be on site to video graph the event for public relations for Copper Valley GC and the Town Center.
Where is the event being held? It is being held at the recently remodeled Copper Valley Clubhouse in Copperopolis, California (Sierra foothills) April 3rd, 2024 in the Grandview Room.
2024 registration can be found at: https://californiawinesandwineries.com at the top of the page by clicking on 2024 Cabernet Franc Celebration, Wine Competition Registration. Make sure you select Domestic. If you are an International winery, please contact me at mkellywine@gmail.com for a different Registration form to meet all the Federal requirements, COLA Waiver, customs, etc.
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Last Year’s Annual Cabernet Franc Winners of Best of Class and Best of Show include:
Eastern Division – Professional & People’s Choice – Granite Heights Winery, Virginia
Northwest Division –
Professional – Camaraderie Cellars, WA.
People’s Choice – Terra Vina Wines, OR.
Domestic Blend (Min 50% Cabernet Franc)
Professional – J. Lohr, Paso Robles
People’s Choice – Cuda Ridge Wines, Livermore Valley
California Division
<$30 Professional & People’s Choice Both – Ironstone, Sierra Foothills
$31-$50: Professional – Shale Canyon, Arroyo Seco
People’s Choice- Rivino Estate, Mendocino
$51- $75: Professional & People’s Choice – Selin Cellars, Fountain Grove
$76 – $100: Professional – LXV Wines, Paso Robles
People’s Choice – Ledson Cellars, Kenwood
$100 and up: Professional – Diamond Mountain, Diamond Mtn, Napa Valley
People’s Choice – Middle Oak Wines, Coombsville
International Division
Corti Brothers – Italy
We also have a Specialty Division for Cabernet Franc Blanc, Sparkling, Rose, etc.
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Two Additional Events will be open to the public after the competition:
The first event is scheduled for past Best of Class and Best of Show winners or runner ups (from 2023) to pour at a Cabernet Franc Wine Stroll on Saturday April 13th, 2024. This will include an exquisite 30 foot charcuterie board. There will be one session, noon to 3:30 pm. Details and ticket information will be available mid-February. The wineries will be pouring their Cabernet Franc wine and have the option to pour their many other wines also.
The second event is a gourmet dinner featuring 4 or 5 invited Cabernet Franc wine producers on Saturday April 13th, 2024 in the evening starting at 6 pm. This will be limited seating for first 120 people. A gourmet dinner will be provided by Executive Chef Jaime Alderete paired with the selected Cabernet Franc wines. Details and ticket information will be available mid-February.
2021 Barra Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – A Formidable Wine From Mendocino
BARRA of Mendocino has a new label for their line of Reserve wines which are all CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers). It is in honor of a historic oak tree found on its home ranch on the Redwood Valley Vineyards. It is both a foiled oak and grape leaves, embossed on a black background. On the back of the bottle it states it is symbolic of their 70 year history making wine as in “Like an old oak tree, our roots run deep”. Martha Barra, winery owner and co-founder stated “A powerful icon in our vineyards, the oak tree represents wisdom and knowledge, strength and endurance, stability and honesty”.
About CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers)
In order to understand the winery, it is essential to understand what organic farming and certification is all about. A very brief explanation, when Charlie Barra started the winery almost 40 years ago, he undertook a Herculean task of making it organic on his terms. In his words “Yes it’s more work (annual audits/certifications, paperwork, labor requirements), more risk (crop devastation from pests) and not necessarily a bigger payout, buts essential to the well-being of this planet”. His vision was remarkable.
BARRA of Mendocino has been CCOF for over 20 years and took 3 years of inspections prior to becoming complete. Charlie’s favorite saying is that he had been farming organically for over 55 years! Organic certification requires the vineyards are maintained without conventional pesticides or herbicides, synthetic fertilizers, sewage sludge, bioengineering or ionizing radiation. Crop covers of bell beans, red clover and peas are planted between the rows of vines and when flowering are then turned back into the soil for nutrients for the vineyards/grapes. The micro-organisms in the soil allow the vines to utilize the nutrients efficiently.
The Winery
Charlie followed his father and maternal grandfather who migrated to Mendocino County from Piedmont, Italy in 1906. Charlie began farming grapes in the mid 1940’s and in 1954 purchased Redwood Valley Vineyards. He worked vigorously with Karl Wente, Robert Mondavi and others to be one of the first growers of many varietals planted on the North Coast. Today the ranch grows organically Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Muscat Canelli. Besides the BARRA of Mendocino label, they have two other labels, Girasole Vineyards and CORO Mendocino. Charlie passed in 2019 and his wife Martha who worked with him for almost 40 years, is heading the family winery which now stands at 350 acres and a 2.8 million gallon custom crush facility. They launched the BARRA of Mendocino Brand in 1997 and the Girasole Brand in 2003. Their son and daughter also have major responsibilities to keep the “family farm” running.
The Wine – 2021 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The first thing that needs to be mentioned is be prepared to have your mind blown as to what kind of Cabernet Sauvignon can come out of Mendocino!! This was simply a wonderful surprise opening this bottle. The wine comes from their 50 acre vineyard site located at 764 feet in elevation and has been designated certified organic since 2007. The wine rested 18 months in 30% new French oak barrels and the balance being neutral.
Randy Meyer, the winemaker crafted an elegant wine! First on the eyes a deep royal purple with glistening hues around the rim. Medium to medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose this was no ordinary “milk toast or weak cousin” Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendocino, but immediately intense aromas of cherries and blackberry wafted into the senses. On the palate cocoa and vanilla coffee along with blackberry swirled lively in the mouth with a secondary offering of anise. On the finish, most notably it was smooth and silky, yet notable tannins providing a Cabernet Sauvignon that was “Napa worthy”. It is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon with 87% Estate and 13% Home Ranch – both being certified organic. 1455 cases were produced and is listed on their website for $28. Without a doubt a classy and true Cabernet Sauvignon and at $28 being flat out a bargain! It was aged 18 months in 30% new French barrels and the balance being neutral. The wine won a Gold Medal at the Mendocino County Wine Competition.
I don’t remember having tasted any Cabernet Sauvignon that compares to this bottle of immense flavor at this price point. One of my notes while tasting it was it hit my “Golden Triangle” of balance between fruit, oak and tannins. The end result being a wine with a smooth, silky and delicious finish.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired with beef, spinach and ricotta ravioli’s with a roasted tomato and garlic red sauce. Topped with fresh Parmesan cheese and accompanied by garlic bread. The pairing was excellent and frankly the meal could have been upgraded to be suited for this quality of wine.
This wine just made my annual Best Wines Tasted in the year in the up to $50/category. That list comes out mid-December each year.
Sláinte,
Michael
2014 Arkenstone NVD Cabernet Sauvignon – And Alice in Wonderland!
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
What you see is not what you get! Let me explain. When you first arrive at Arkenstone, you view a medium sized brown modern but “plain” metal building. The grounds are pastoral with vines in view. There is an inviting and casual patio and some crush equipment in an “open air” covered area. Looks like a quaint and small operation at a typical 1500 feet elevation Howell Mountain winery. Nothing could be further from the truth.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The entire operation is essentially “underground”. The impact on the environment is almost nil. The operation is set up on a gravity flow system from above, down to the caves forty five feet below the ground which are immense. Now back to the “underground world of Arkenstone”.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
As we descended the stairs off the patio, it had a feeling of going down the rabbit hole. The difference however is that Alice in Wonderland didn’t know where she was going – here, Susan, our host certainly did. What transpired was a viewing deck for this enormous cavern with all the production equipment, tanks and storage of barrels. The two pictures are 180 degrees in opposite directions.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The owners are Susan Krausz and Ron Kaplan. Susan was our host for the day on my initial visit 7 years ago. Originally from Minnesota, her charm and hospitality still warmly mid-western, provided a calm and relaxing tour, history and tasting experience. Arkenstone was founded in 1988 and planted in 1998 with their inaugural vintage in 2006. The majority of wines are with estate fruit and two small projects that are non-estate. Today, Sam Kaplan is the winemaker extraordinaire for 20 vintages and counting. When compared to the above ground portion of the winery, one is awestruck with the immensity of the cavern. Not seen in the pictures are the “side streets” of the caves. With this size Arkenstone’s production today is approximately 2,000 cases in total. Susan and Sam mentioned they do production for several other small wineries in the area. Besides the “grandeur” of the caves, what strikes you both above ground and in the caves is the pristine cleanliness and quality of construction.
As with Alice in Wonderland, I was wondering what the next surprise would be. It was shortly found out that the wines were even more intriguing.
From our tasting, you can truly understand why the name Obsidian was chosen for their flagship Cabernet – as one definition calls Obsidian “born out of quickly cooled volcanic lava, so it has the potent energy of the interaction of several and powerful elements—fire, earth and water”. So it is with Arkenstone- truly a powerful and integrated wine.
The Wine -2014 Arkenstone Vineyards NVD Cabernet Sauvignon – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Intense purple coloring entices one to sip, with a strong aroma of black cherry burst into the nose. Black cherry, chocolate, blueberries and red cherries on the palate. A very solid and enjoyable wine with a great mid long finish, structured and with beautiful tannins. An average of 92 points and today the bottle runs approximately $100- $110/bottle.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Having dinner this evening at Verona18 and needed a good Filet Mignon as I had been eating a lot fish this week. One of the couples I was having dinner does not like “oaky red wines”. So went through the “wine book” to find something smooth, good and minimal oak influence. Thought from memory this would work fine. Started the meal with a salad called the ‘Little Gem Wedge” which included blue cheese, croutons, bacon, hard-boiled egg, red onion, cherry tomatoes, radishes and lots of blue cheese dressing.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up was the Filet Mignon entrée cooked to a spot on medium rare and served with a lovely gorgonzola compound button on top. Fresh mashed potatoes and garden vegetables completed the meal. The wine was perfectly matched and our friend liked this wine without too much oak. Definitely one of the better wines enjoyed in 2023.
This wine will make my annual Best Wines Tasted for 2023. The list will be out mid-December.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.coppervalleygolf.com/homepage/current-operations
2017 Young’s Vineyard Barbera – Like No Other Barbera!
Background on Barbera
Barbera, the red-headed step child of Italian descent! Yes that is how many people view Barbera wine. Yet the pedigree goes back to the 7th century as compared to the relatively “new comer” Cabernet Sauvignon which dates only to the 17th century. The production of Barbera is primarily in Italy boasting about 83% of worldwide vines. The United States accounts for the second largest production of approximately 11% and is found primarily in the Sierra Foothills, Central Valley and Santa Barbara areas. The small balance can be found in Australia and Argentina. Barbera was at one time the third most planted grape in Italy behind Sangiovese and Montepulciano.
If the aristocratic Cabernet Sauvignon is the King of Varietals, then Barbera is “wine of the people”. In northern Italy, especially in Piedmont, it does not get the same respect as Nebbiolo with prime real estate. Barbera is grown in the low slopes and valleys. Often very good Barbera can be obtained for a fraction of the price of a vintage Nebbiolo. Thus the early years of Barbera was known as a “jug wine”. When immigrants coming to the United States desired an inexpensive wine, Barbera filled the demand. Barbera is meant to be enjoyed young with intense aromas of cherries and blackberries.
The Winery
Photo of garden setting at Young’s Vineyard (photo by Young’s)
Many years ago we were members, after to being introduced to Young’s Vineyard. All their wines were tasty and the yearly parties were epic by the standards then! Young’s is one of the first vineyards you come to after turning onto Shenandoah Road in Plymouth. Over the years they have established themselves as an essential stop for their Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Syrah, Sangiovese and Barbera wines.
The Young family purchased the property in 1992, there was an operating winery producing 1,000 cases of wine with seven acres of grapes. Today, production has increased to 3,000 cases and the grounds has expanded to 30 acres, including 10 acres of lawns, gardens and picnic grounds surrounding a tranquil pond. While tasting wine, it is like being in a private park or reserve. They are located at 10120 Shenandoah Road in Plymouth, California.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This Barbera did not possess a typical profile. The difference was the overwhelming spiciness like whole cluster soaked Grenache! This was especially noted when first opening. Later the spiciness mellowed out. Either way, cold from the cellar or cool, it was unique and delicious. On the eye the color is a deep crimson and medium heavy body. On the nose and palate, dark cherry, blackberries and a hint of strawberry wafts into the olfactory receptors and then the mouth discerns spices of vanilla and mild black licorice. What makes Barbera unique are the low tannins but high acidity.
Called the winery to find out the current status of the wine and vintage. Currently it is the 2020, but it is sold out! The new release (2022) is coming end of January and pricing is expected to be $36/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Purchased this wine a couple of years back and decided to have it with a pepperoni pizza this evening. While the pizza was delicious, I totally missed the mark as this wine outshined the pizza by a country mile. This wine was so good it should have had a meat or rich red sauce with pasta. While the pizza lost, I won by enjoying this wine!
Sláinte,
Michael
2020 Derthona Timorasso, Colli Tortonesi DOC – Revived From Near Extinction!
Background on Timorasso
I was introduced to this wine a few of months back by a friend and SOMM Fran Cunniffe at a small tasting at Prima Vini Wine Shop in Dublin, California. Thoroughly enjoyed the wine and picked up two bottles awaiting the right food & wine pairing opportunity.
This wine comes from Piedmont region of Italy from the city of Tortona. The village is half way between Milan and Genoa. While Piedmont is renowned for the gorgeous red wines (Barbera, Dolcetto, etc.) it is also the home of Timorasso. This grape has been around since the Middle Ages but with the advent of phylloxera and the Second World War it was quickly disappearing. Additionally, this grape varietal almost went extinct due the finicky nature of the vines: double/triple buds at break, low yields and more desirable wines from the area. Many farmer’s wanted to replant with more well-known grape vines. Its survivability is credited to one man, Walter Massa a local farmer from Monleale a village in Piedmont who believed in the grape. In 1980’s it was almost extinct. By the 1990’s Walter other local producers had continued to plant the grapevines. Today over 20 wineries are producing Timorasso. It is key to the Colli Toronesi DOC. To be produced as a varietal from Colli Tortonesi region, it must constitute at least 85% of the Timorasso grape and the balance can be Moscato Bianco and Favorita (Vermentino).
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine has a unique texture and layers upon layers of panache! On the eyes, a straw light colored golden hue. On the nose, both floral and fruity notes waft into the senses. Classical Timorasso may have notes of acacia, Hawthorne, peach, honey and tropical fruits. This one from the Oddero family, provided wide reaching floral scents coupled with minerality. On the palate yellow apple was dominate. The uniqueness of this grape is the mouth filling and heavy body white wine. Soft tropical fruit was secondary but present. A generous finish of refreshing delight with well-balanced acidity and texture. This wine scored 91 points and sells for about $36/bottle. When aged, it is sometimes referred to as a “white Barolo” or “white wine for red wine drinkers”.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
While being a “heavy-duty” white wine is still mild and meant to go with light and medium bodied fish. So last evening was the exact choice as Vernona18 had a special Petrale Sole Dore, with a light lemon sauce. The Petrale Sole was prepared perfectly! This Timorasso was a perfect match in complementing and not overwhelming the delicate fish. It was accompanied by rice pilaf and sautéed fresh vegetables.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Our “Friday Night Wine & Dine” group met on Wednesday as Verona18 provided live music by Greg Sutton to enjoy the evening dinner. We did manage to taste some other fine wines during the meal and performance and then capped off the evening with a port from Pasoport Wine Company.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.coppervalleygolf.com/homepage/current-operations
2021 Wood Family Vineyards Malbec – And a Couple of Paso Robles Wines!
The Winery
Photo from Wood Family Vineyards
Wood Family Vineyards, located in eastern Livermore Valley, with Rhonda Wood owner & winemaker, has been producing award winning wines for over two decades. You can read more on her background from airline pilot to award winning winemaker at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2016/02/10/wood-family-vineyards-2/
Her awards are extensive and too numerous to list here in this article. Check out their website at the bottom of this article.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine on the eyes is medium viscosity with a deep royal purple coloration, yet around the rim it is almost translucent. On the nose blackberries and dark red plums are the leaders rushing in to claim dominance in the olfactory senses. Also present were violets and roses. On the palate almost overpowering black and dark red fruits (blackberries and plums) come to the forefront with tobacco, French oak, chocolate, black licorice and fresh leather. The finish is velvety smooth with medium acidity and rounded embracing tannins with no sharpness. Also on the finish the presence of ground stone minerality provide a juicy and mouth filling finish. Alcohol was 14.2 % and listed at the winery at $36/bottle with only 93 cases produced from their estate vineyard. This Malbec has been on my list of Best Wines Tasted yearly for the last three years and continues to be in 2023. That list comes out mid-December annually.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
We started the evening off with fresh shrimp in tasty dipping red sauce that included cayenne pepper. Also served was a fresh bowl of Guacamole and chips! Those two alone could have been dinner.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This evening was a newer recipe called Jalapeño meatloaf.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Ingredients included ground beef, panko breadcrumbs, egg, minced jalapeño peppers, minced garlic and shredded sharp cheddar cheese. The topping was a combination of tomato sauce, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, honey and chill powder. Served with optional Raspberry Chipotle sauce from Stewart and Jasper.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Accompanied by twice baked Russet potatoes with cheese (because it is required by law to serve potatoes with meatloaf!),
Photo ©Michael Kelly
sautéed asparagus,
Photo ©Michael Kelly
and a fresh garden salad that including Kalamata olives, feta cheese, garbanzo beans, tomatoes and onions. The Wood Family Vineyards Malbec with its fruit surrounded this spicy but not hot meatloaf to perfection. An excellent food and wine pairing.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Our guest also brought wines that paired wonderfully with this tasty dish: 2021 Austin Hope Malbec, 2018 Justin Isosceles Reserve and I brought out a bottle of 2020 Wood Family “Viva” Cabernet Sauvignon. It was a Livermore Valley and Paso Robles wine evening with good food!
Sláinte,
Michael
2013 Keenan Spring Mountain Cabernet Franc – Dubbed as “”Freakishly Good”
I have been a fan of Keenan wines for over twenty years. Keenan winery is located on Spring Mountain which is one of the unique areas for Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot wine
One of the hallmarks of Keenan wines is his year to year consistency. This is due in part to the viticulture of the estate and the artistry of winemaker Nils Venge. I have enjoyed every wine he has made or acted as the consulting winemaker!
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Michael Keenan’s 2013 Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley is grown primarily from grapes on the Spring Mountain estate at 2000 feet elevation on the estate property. The fruit is hand-picked and fermented in stainless tanks. The wine is then aged in French and American oak barrels for twenty months. It is 100% Cabernet Franc.
On the eyes a deep, almost blackest coloring showing the pedigree of Spring Mountain Cabernet Franc. On the nose, blueberry and raspberry waft into the senses. On the palate a beautiful silky smooth drink with rounded tannins presenting an elegant finish begging to be sipped once again! Michael Keenan called it “freakishly good”, and I concur. Robert Parker gave it 94 points and today it goes for $105/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired last evening with a ribeye steak, seared at 1200-1400 degrees and served medium rare. The searing provided a nice char finish with a glistening red center sealing in the juices and flavors. Accompanied by roasted Yukon Gold potatoes and a fresh garden salad.
Truly an extraordinary food and wine pairing!
Sláinte,
Michael
Zuidema Wine Company, 2017 Grenache – A Class Above
The Background
Photo from Rudy Zuidema
Rudy has been making wine for almost 30 years an impressive resume making wine for Red Cap Vineyards, Shadybrook Estate, Rapp Ranch, Red Cap Vineyards, Porch Wines, Phamus Wines, Napa de Oro, Middle Oak Wines and many more. Rudy first put in the hard work at St. Clement Vineyards, working with local winemaker Dennis Johns. From there he climbed the industry ladder with positions in turn as assistant winemaker, head winemaker, vineyard manager and general manager at Cuvaison, Honig, Robert Craig, Ehlers Estate and White Cottage Ranch. He studied organic and biodynamic farming, receiving CCOF and Demeter certifications on several ranches. Rudy is well traveled in Napa Valley, utilizing his talents with many climates and varietals including AVAs of Howell Mountain, Coombsville, Rutherford, Mount George, Carneros, and St. Helena. If you never had any of his wines they are definitely “top shelf” wines!
He secured this plot of land, located in Rutherford, in 2011 and was able to start from scratch with plantings. He choose Clone 515 Grenache from the famed Chateauneuf du Pape heritage and married it to the noble St George rootstock. This allowed his Grenache to be dry farmed in an Old World manner. No trellis, no wires, simply head trained soaking in the richness of the Rutherford soil. The label on the bottle with the roots seeking minerals and nourishment, is more than an artist logo, it is his vineyard management style in full swing.
Rudy with his experience in the vineyard, winemaking and his choice of vines, seems to have merged some Old World techniques into producing excellent wine for Zuidema Wines.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
His 2017 Grenache from Rutherford, Napa Valley produced a very well balanced wine. Rudy Zuidema’s style of Grenache is old world with layers of rich flavors and juicy, rustic tannins. On the eyes, a light brick red coloring with almost a light brownish hue with medium viscosity. On the nose aromas of plum, new leather, and clove waft into the senses. On the palate you are awakened to a complex finish of fig, licorice, molasses, and black cherry with hints of spices and dried herbs. The finish shows the earthy minerality of these grapes. Rudy uses about 20% new American oak from Pennsylvania with the balance being 2-3 old neutral French oak barrels. Without a doubt one of the best Grenache wines tasted out of Napa Valley!! Vintages 2018 and 2019 are unfortunately sold out. However the 2020 will be available in early 2024 at the same $42/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled out of the cellar to be paired with tonight’s dinner. The main entrée was baked salsa chicken. The ingredients included olive oil, ground cumin, chili powder, paprika, garlic powder, salt & pepper, fresh chunky salsa, shredded cheddar cheese and boneless chicken breasts. Served with a light topping of salsa over the cheese. Accompanied by a warm Mexican corn salad that was flavorful and spicy. The ingredients included fresh corn off the cob, Greek yogurt, light mayonnaise, chili powder, fresh lime juice, minced cilantro, minced scallions and grated cotija cheese. Also a fresh garden salad was served.
Both the chicken and corn salad were excellent with the soothing Grenache wine! An excellent food and wine pairing. This wine will make the annual Best Wines Tasted during the year! That list comes out mid-December.
Sláinte,
Michael
A Tasty Portuguese Dinner and Lovely Portuguese Wines
Background
One of the neighbors in our informal “Friday Night Wine & Dine Group” invited us over to their home for traditional Portuguese dinner this Sunday evening. Each couple brought a side dish that may or may not be Portuguese and a wine. Many of the wines were Portuguese white wines from the Azores and a few reds from the United States.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We started off the evening on the patio with appetizers enjoying two traditional Portuguese cheeses. Dried figs, grapes and dried fava beans were also served with crackers & honey.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We moved inside to be served some exquisite foods. The host and hostess prepared a special treat of two Bacalhau dishes. One a traditional Portuguese dish with salted rock Cod fish, eggs, potatoes, caramelized onions, tomatoes and spices. The other was a variation Bacalhau com Natas (Cod with cream). Not shown was a pot roast and potatoes.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
Other dishes served were a red leaf lettuce salad with a crostini of Feta & Goat cheeses. Vinaigrette dressing was a reduction of red wine and balsamic vinegar with golden raisins simmered in the reduction. Crostini was toasted and topped with the cheese blend and sprinkled with the soaked raisins and drizzled with reserved red wine and Balsamic reduction.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
Other side dishes included roasted halved Brussel sprouts and drizzled with a Balsamic reduction.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
And for dessert lovely poached pears in a wine base with cinnamon sticks and cloves. The sauce included orange juice, honey and orange rind. Served chilled and a perfect finish! And of course chocolate candies were served.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Portuguese white wines tasted ranged from very good to great with Pico’s three main varieties either blended or standalone varietals being Terrantez, Verdelho and Arinto. A few USA red wines showed up to help balance the white wines from the Azores.
Terrantez do Pico – Terrantez
Vinha Centenaria – blend of Verdelho and Arinto
Atlantis Acores – Arinto
Lajido – blend of Verdelho, Terrantez and Arinto
Frei Gigante – blend of Arinto, Verdelho and Terrantez
Canada Dos Ladroes – Verdelho
Terrantez do Pico, Terroir Vulcanico – Terrantez
What a great evening of scrumptious foods and wines. A special thank you to the host/hostess who prepared the appetizers and main dishes. Thanks to the couples who brought delicious side dishes and a bottle of wine for this memorable meal.
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Gossamer Cellar Negroamaro – Uncommon and Delicious!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
Gossamer Cellars located in Murphys, California is one of the gems of the Sierra Foothills. Their tasting room is located at 419 Main Street. Gary and Sue Grant are the owners with Gary making the wine and Sue graciously hosting guests in their quaint tasting room.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The etymology of the word gossamer originated in Middle English as “goose summer” or “gos mer”, late summer warmth, when the geese where in prime condition to be eaten! Over time it has morphed into an adjective “gossamer” meaning “light, delicate or tenuous” like a butterfly wings. Thus on the bottle of Gossamer Cellars a delicate butterfly or fairy is depicted with butterfly wings. To this end, it is appropriately named as Gary Grant purposely “flitters from varietal to varietal” making unique, high quality and lesser known wines for those open to experience the vast world of wine!
Their “motto” written in chalk in their very tiny tasting room sums up their goal and lifestyle “Adventure may hurt you, but monotony will kill you” (Anonymous). See the complete story at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2019/01/18/gossamer-cellars-a-unique-find/ .
This is about one of their wines called Negroamaro that I pulled from the cellar for dinner. Grown in the Sierra Foothills, this grape is a dark-skinned and best known in the Puglia region in Southern Italy (the heel of the boot). The name Negroamaro translates “dark, bitter”. The typical characteristics are red cherry, forest fruits, licorice and tobacco. With aging (5-10 years) the wine can develop aromas of black pepper, prunes, earthy notes, blackberry and dried thyme.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine on the eyes was not as dark as some of the Italian Negroamaro wines but don’t let it fool you. It possessed a purple and crimson hue and was medium to medium heavy viscosity. Aromas of plum, dark cherry were prevalent. In the mouth, besides dark fruits, licorice and tobacco, a tinge of green pepper was present along with an almost bitter rhubarb or cranberry but with food, a latent slight sweetness of the plum & cherry came forward. The finish was dry with both medium to medium-heavy tannins and acid. Definitely an “old world” flavor is what you are left savoring. This is a hearty wine to be enjoyed with food as opposed to a sipping wine. Price is $28 and you can be transported back to Italy! Only 105 cases were produced. The wine was aged in four barrels, one new French oak and three neutral French oak. The grapes come from a vineyard near Placerville, California. Approximately only .001% of California grapes harvested are Negroamaro!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine was decanted for two hours before serving and really helped opening it up and flushed out some of the typical “bitterness” of this varietal. This wine at the 42nd Sierra Foothills Wine Competition won Double Gold!
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled from the cellar last night to have with dinner as the bold, acidic flavor of the wine allows it to cut through the fats, oils and richness of the Bolognese sauce. The sauce was started at 9 am and left simmering all day on the stove. Ingredients included lean hamburger, ground Italian pork, bacon, chopped celery, chopped carrot, minced garlic cloves, olive oil, chopped onions, chopped fresh thyme, red wine, bay leaves, beef broth and tomato puree. Served with whole wheat spaghetti pasta and topped with fresh Parmesan cheese and accompanied by garlic French bread. The good news, it was an exquisite, perhaps the best of the year, food and wine pairing bringing one back to Italy.
This wine definitely made my annual Best Wines Tasting during the year. The list is published mid-December yearly with categories under $50 and above $51/per bottle.
Sláinte,
Michael
California Wines & Wineries 