wine-tasting
2022 Ehret Family Winery Zinfandel
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Admittedly not being a big fan of Zinfandel, I was turned around after enjoying this delicious wine when I first tasted it in 2023. My earlier experiences of Zinfandel were of the “fruit-bomb” characteristics and since then have shied away when given a chance to taste Zinfandels.
First on the eyes, a dark and enticing purple coloring greeted you in the glass. On the nose, blueberries and freshly picked raspberries exuded from the wine glass to the olfactory senses. At this point my a priori knowledge of Zinfandel was shattered, and I was about to experience something wonderful. On the palate, blackberry preserves and blueberries were dominant. Secondary soft tones of licorice and Christmas spices were present (nutmeg, cinnamon). On the finish one of the gentler landings in the mouth with a meaty fruit but non-sweet and light oak taste providing a fine waltz begging for another sip.
The 2022 vintage only a limited number of cases were produced, and it comes in at 16% alcohol. The wine was aged 18 months in 40% new French oak barrels. It received an awarded of 93 points and a Gold Medal at the American Fine Wine Competition. The current release vintage is 2023 and is listed at $60/bottle and worth every penny!
I just can’t imagine a better Zinfandel for my taste buds.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
With a break in the weather, we wanted to start up the BBQ. Marinated a tri tip steak in Chaka sauce for 12 hours. Seared it on the outside at 1500 degrees and then slowly BBQ’ed it. Over cooked it just a bit. Accompanied with sauteed snap peas, long and short brown rice and a Cesar salad. The Zinfandel wine with its dark fruits encapsulated the BBQ meat beautifully.
This is both an excellent wine for food pairings as well as drinking without food. Unfortunately, it was my last bottle of 2022 Ehret Family Winery Zinfandel.
This wine will make my annual report for Best Wines tasted in 2025 that comes out in December. I am now a converted Zinfandel fan especially for Ehret’s Zinfandel!
The Winery
Photo from Ehret Family website
The Ehret Family Winery owners are Pierre and Susan Ehret with their three children Alex, Christian and Isabella. They established the vineyard and started producing grapes in 1996 at the Bavarian Lion Vineyards. It is one of the largest estates in Knights Valley consisting of 1800 acres of both hillside and valley floor terrain. Currently 500 acres are planted in vineyards allowing the balance to provide an ecosystem for plants and birdlife to dwell. From 1996 they sold their fruit to some of the more well-known wineries throughout Napa and Sonoma counties. In 2005, they selected the highest quality grapes and started their family brand, Ehret Family Winery. Today they produce various Cabernet Sauvignon’s, Red Blends, Zinfandel, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc wines. Their tasting room is in Healdsburg at 422 Healdsburg Ave and appointments are required.
Map courtesy from Vintroux https://vineyardandwinerysales.com/
Knights Valley is in Northern Sonoma County between Alexander Valley and over the Napa Valley border next to Calistoga.
The winemaker is Erin Green who has been there since 2015. Previously Erin had experience at Sonoma-Cutrer, Vinewood Cellars and Napa Wine Company. She has also blended wines for various premium projects such as Bryant Family, Colgin Cellars, Martinelli Winery and Pahlmeyer. From 2000-2012 Erin was the winemaker and Director of Winegrowing at Pahlmeyer.
Sláinte,
Michael
2015 Crocker & Starr Casali 8 – A Marriage of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
A question was poised on a wine chat room, if you could only drink one wine the rest of your life, what would you choose? While not answering the question, as I believe variety is the spice of life, last evening drinking this 2015, it was extremely close to being the answer. I met Pam almost twenty years ago and liked every one of her wines. I have also seen the winery grow exponentially in size, without wavering from their exquisite quality and warm hospitality. Not an easy feat in today’s environment!
The Winery
Photo from 2 years ago ©Michael Kelly
Pam Starr is simply a Rock Star. I believe she is one of the elite top 10 winemakers in Napa, but she is also much more than this. Knowing Pam Starr and following her exquisite wines for years, just about all would agree! Her technical pedigree comes from UC Davis in Fermentation Science. She started as an intern at Sonoma Cutrer, Edna Valley Vineyard, then six years at Carmenet Winery and then winemaker for Spottswoode Vineyard. In 1997 she and Charlie Crocker established Crocker & Starr.
Photo from Crocker & Starr website
Charlie Crocker comes from one of California’s oldest families, with his grandfather who was involved in the Central Pacific railroad in the mid 1800’s. His family heritage was a force in California’s development. Charlie also was involved in high tech and ran several companies very successfully. He has always had a keen interest in wine. Charlie in 1971 purchased the Dowdell property in St Helena. Today 85 of the 100 acres are planted in the classical Bordeaux grapes. On their website a detailed chronology is provided and makes a very good read.
The blending of these two personalities as a partnership is as smooth as their wine — seamless and magnificent.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
What I enjoy most in getting to know Pam, is her genuineness and friendliness. You can stop by and see her in the vineyards, driving a forklift, punching down tubs of grapes, just about anything and everything. She is immersed in the business of “perfection”. Yet she has time, to sit down and talk, provide a bowl of water for your dogs, and even converse about mundane “non-wine issues”. She is above all else, extremely real and kind. Why wouldn’t you like her wine?
Her enthusiasm spills over into her craft of winemaking skills. I am speaking as a customer and wine club member from this perspective. Since meeting Pam, some twenty years ago, her wines started out at a 10 (scale of 1-10) and have remained at this quality the entire time! No easy feat with droughts, fire and wild temperature swings.
Let’s talk about the wines she produces. First, and why I sought Crocker & Starr initially years ago, was her Cabernet Franc. Each year they produce one of the most consistently solid and best Cabernet Franc’s in the Valley. The wine always shows a deep purple, with concentrates of black raspberries and tobacco. As some Cab Francs can be “strong”, Crocker & Starr‘s are strong in texture, but surprisingly soft and velvety to drink. They have enough balance of structure, tannin and acid to last 10-15 years without fail.
Today they produce a few Cabernet Sauvignon (RLC, Stone Place, One Post), Cabernet Franc and Casali (blend of Cabernet Franc & Malbec). Also, their white Sauvignon Blanc is superb. One newer addition is Brut Rose. All her red wines and white wines have consistently made my annual list of “Best Wines Tasted” during the year for the last 15 years! See the links to these reviews:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2019/12/28/2011-crocker-starr-stone-place-cabernet-sauvignon/
One of their taglines is “Touch the Vines, Taste the Wines”. When visiting the winery, immersion into the vineyard is a prerequisite. In 2021 Cyrus Hazzard joined the Crocker & Starr team as a Partner & President to continue their esteemed tradition.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Casali designated wine is a mix of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon with the percentages changing year by year. 2015 Casali 8 is 55% Malbec and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is Pam’s ode to a Bordeaux blend and comes in at 14.4% alcohol.
First on the eyes a dark inky coloring with a magenta and purple rim. When popping the cork, the fragrances of black plum waft into the senses beckoning one to take a sip. Once on the palate, black cherries and blueberries swirl about in merriment. Secondary flavors of sweet pipe tobacco along with blackberries complete the tasting. The finish, dark chocolate counterbalanced by vanilla and surrounded by silky and embracing tannins leaves one almost speechless. Like a piece of art, you are mesmerized and totally elated with the momentary and existential experience.
Their current release is 2022 will be available to Casali members for $110/bottle (Casali 15) in spring of 2025. The 2015 will definitely make my “Best Wines Tasted This Year” again (comes out each December) in 2025!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dinner with this wine was a special Carne Asada. The flank steak was put through a tenderizing machine at the meat market. It was marinated 24 hours with the following ingredients: olive oil, soy sauce, fresh squeezed orange and lime juice, fresh chopped cilantro leaves, pickled Jalapeño peppers, minced garlic cloves, ground cumin, Kosher salt, ground black pepper. The steak was seared on the BBQ with an infrared ceramic burner at 1500 degrees for about 3-4 minutes a side and then BBQ’ed. Served with minced cilantro, fresh extra marinade sauce and a modicum of fresh squeezed lime juice. Accompanying the meal were roasted quartered Mexican potatoes consisting of baby yellow halved potatoes, olive oil, salt, smoked paprika, cumin, chili powder, black pepper, granulated garlic, onion powder, oregano and fresh finely grated Parmesan Reggiano. A fresh Southwest Garden salad comprised of iceberg and green leaf lettuce, chili lime seasoned white chicken meat, tortilla strips, four cheese blend, roasted yellow corn and salsa ranch dressing. The Carne Asada was flavorful and spicy. This is now one of our “go to” BBQ food pairings!
This Malbec blend with its fruit surrounded the spicy meat and cooled it off to be absolutely a wonderful pairing with the Cabernet Sauvignon component matched beautifully with the meat protein.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2021 Donati Family Vineyard Petit Verdot
Photo from Donati Family Vineyards webpage
Background
This story unfolded from Donati’s participation in the 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition on March 5th. They won Best of Category in the $56-$70 California Category and Double Gold Medals from the Professional Judges. They also received a Silver Medal from the People’s Choice Judges. This price category included wines from Lodi, Santa Maria, Paso Robles, Alexander Valley, Napa Valley and Temecula and perhaps one of the toughest categories in the California portion of the competition. This was their second year participating.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
While attending the #CabFrancMasters in Paso I contacted Donati Wines to arrange a visit as I did not know the winery. We agreed to meet on Monday after the event and what a fun, delightful and engaging visit pursued with winemaker Briana Heywood. Her background prior to joining the Donati Family was at J. Lohr Vineyards & Winery for almost 10 years as an enologist and previous experience with a variety of wineries.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
During the visit with Brianna we sampled various wines from their award winning lineup. We left with two of their wines, one being Petit Verdot. Petit Verdot is best know as a blending wine for Bordeaux style wines. It was used consistently in Bordeaux as it was a late ripening grape varietal. It struggled to reach full maturity and when used in moderation (1-2%) for blending produced generally produced wines that were overly tannic and caused the vineyards to decline. More recently however Petit Verdot has had a resurgence due to plantings in warmer climates like California, Australia and Spain. The warmer climates allowing the fruit to fully ripen and provide a distinct character for the varietal. Providing a very drinkable wine full of body, tannins and structure.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Donati Family Vineyard Petit Verdot displays all the key components of this beautiful and often misunderstood varietal. First on the eyes, this wine is a lavish and royal purple in coloring contrasting from other varieties. In the glass, it has a medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose, aromas of violets and lavender along with plum and blackberry rise up to beckon your first sip. Once on the palate the essence of dark fruits, strong tannins and firm acidity greet the imbiber. Blueberry notes soften the impact of the tannins with a silky smoothness and flavor. On the finish, black pepper and spices and dried herbal notes and rustic smoky tastes linger. After the finish, you are struck with its full body, structural characteristics and tannins. Aging in oak barrels tends to soften the wine with a slight vanilla taste. Only 68 cases were produced and the wine lists for $56/bottle. The wine is 13.9% alcohol.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was chosen this evening to be paired with slow cooked beef short ribs. Many wines could be selected, especially for how the ribs are prepared and cooked be it braised or BBQ for example. Petit Verdot with its acidity and tannins complement the richness of beef. While the beef was cooked in red wine, the strong Petit Verdot continued to break down the proteins in the meat to enhance a more tender texture.
The recipe called for seasoned short ribs braised first and then transferred to the slow cooker. A sauce was prepared with onions, mushrooms, garlic, beef broth, oregano, thyme, rosemary and marjoram. Then in the slow cooker, red wine and the sauce were added with the meat along with bay leaves. It was cooked for 9 hours. When the meat was served it was so tender it fell apart with a fork. Accompanied by twice baked Russet potato. The food and wine pairing hit the target with the tannins from the wine standing up to the meat and the flavorful meat enjoying the dark fruit from the wine. Extremely simpatico!
The Winery
Photo of a small portion of the winery ©Michael Kelly
The winery produces both a larger scale commercial wine offering and very small artisan & boutique wines for direct to customer purchase and their wine club. They are located at 2720 Oak View Road in Templeton, California. Their tasting room is quaint and inviting and more like a family room atmosphere.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Here is the lineup of some of their commercial and mass-produced wines. They are moderately priced for the consumer and Donati Family produces approximately 11,000 cases of these brands.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
They also have a fair number of varieties of wines for their club members and are sold only in the tasting room. These small artisan and boutique wines comprise a limited production totally roughly 700 cases. The tasting room is quaint and inviting to enjoy sipping some or perhaps all of their wines!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A great visit meeting Brianna with her enthusiastic energy, bright smile and her knowledge of both the vines and making wine. While not one of the “major names” in Paso Robles AVA, they are getting noticed by wine aficionados and discerning wine drinkers. I will look forward to a return visit on the next trip to Paso Robles AVA. In the interim I have both a Petite Sirah and Cabernet Franc to be tasted and enjoyed in the coming weeks.
Sláinte,
Michael
2022 Austin Hope “Cellar Select” Cabernet Franc – A Special Treat!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
This year’s #CabFrancMasters in Paso Robles at a dinner gathering I was seated next to Stasi Seay, Director of Vineyards at Hope Family Wines. While having had some exposure to Hope Family Wines, when the Austin Hope Cellar Select Cabernet Franc was served, I was startled by it opulence and richness. Having just completed the 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition with one hundred Cabernet Franc wines participating and Austin Hope’s Quest wine being entered in the less than $40 category for California Cab Franc wines. It received Silver Medal’s from both the Professional and People’s Choice Judges. Hosting the event I never had an opportunity to taste it. Stasi mentioned that Austin Hope, owner and winemaker, had been working on this additional label (Quest) for five years before releasing it. That alone was a startling statement. I had previously tried many of their Cabernet Sauvignon wines but had very little knowledge of the scope and breath of their operation. When the Austin Hope Cellar Select Cabernet Franc was served with a chocolate molten cake with beet and vanilla anglaise then I understood that this wine was on a different level than most Cabernet Franc wines. As I previously wrote it was one of the richest and “almost chewable” wines of the evening which paired so well with the food. It was between Austin Hope and one other Cabernet Franc wine for the best of the evening, which is saying a lot as all were outstanding. Mentioning we were having a dinner party and would like to buy a bottle to share with our guests the following Friday, she was kind enough to secure a bottle and ship it to us.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled it out of the cellar three hours in advance of dinner to allow it to breathe and “warm up” for the dinner. When popping the cork, a floral boutique of aromas rushed into the olfactory senses. Later in the glass this dark and enticing color with a heavy viscosity had a brooding and mysterious allure. Upon the first sip, it was as I remembered from the #CabFrancMasters dinner, a deep and sensuous flavor of dark fruits of plum and blackberry swirled about in the mouth. This was no ordinary Cabernet Franc. Secondary flavors of dark chocolate counter balanced by a dry earthiness provided an all-encompassing experience. On the finish, layers of enjoyment and strong tannins both with some angularity and yet velvety, along with dark cherry completed the experience.
As I researched this magnificent bold and dry wine, I found out it was rated the #2 California Cabernet Franc wine today by Vivino. It sells for approximately $90/bottle, and it is an ageable wine that will only improve further! It will make my annual list of Best Wines tasted during the calendar year for 2025.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Prepared one of our favorite dishes last evening, Mediterranean beef kebabs. The recipe calls for sirloin beef but substituted filet mignon. Cut the filet mignon meat into 1 ½ inch squares and were marinated for almost two hours in the refrigerator. The ingredients for the marinade include fresh lemon juice, marjoram, oregano, parsley, paprika, black pepper, Himalayan Sea salt, olive oil and fresh minced garlic.
Pieces of the filet mignon and vegetables were cut up to fit in the kabab grilling baskets preferred for grilling to capture all the ingredients rather than skewers. Besides the beef, two different colored bell peppers slices (yellow and orange), and purple onion slices were loaded into the baskets. Plus, fresh Rosemary. Placed on the BBQ between medium to medium-high for about 10-12 minutes rotating the baskets 90 degrees every 3 minutes. Emptied from the basket and served.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The meal was accompanied by Greek roasted potatoes in chicken broth, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic powder and fresh oregano
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Additionally, a fresh garden salad with onion, tomato and Kalamata olives. Served with a Greek dressing.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Also sautéed asparagus with minced garlic, shallots, topped with roasted peppers and feta cheese.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dessert for those who could possibly eat anything more were both fresh blackberries and raspberries and Milano Double Dark chocolate cookie wafers.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This meal was extremely tasty, spicy and provided a real Mediterranean experience. It was like Spain, France, Italy and Greece combined to throw a party! Combined with the exquisite wine, one of the better food and wine pairings enjoyed last evening.
The Winery
Photo Hope Family Wines website
I have yet to visit the winery but have had the opportunity to speak with many of the folks from the winery such as Austin Hope Owner/winemaker, Stasi Seay Director of Vineyards, CJ Gormley Tasting Room and many others during this years and previous #CabFrancMasters in Paso Robles. What I did not know or understand was the enormity of the breath of wine offered by the Hope Family Wines! Austin Hope who I had a conversation with at last year at #CabFrancMasters has a quote that took on new meaning after tasting this wine stating, “the goal is simple: to make wines that express everything Paso Robles has to offer, with its pastoral beauty, perfect soils, maritime climate and limitless possibility.”
Photo Hope Family Wines website
Trying to sum up the Hope Family Wine offering is like taking a tour of a large luxury cruise ship. Behind each doorway and deck is waiting a new experience. So, this description is only the beginning of several on the winery. First off, the Hope Family Wines has six labels which are Austin Hope, Treana, Quest, Liberty School, Troublemaker and Austin. The wine offering is mind boggling with Graciano, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Chenin Blanc, a dry Rosé, Syrah, GSM, Grenache, Verdelho, Pinot Noir, Mourvèdre, various Rhône blends, etc. Way too many wines to mention and an astonishing assortment of wines to be explored. They source from over 50 growers from Monterey to Santa Barbara. All 42 acres of their estate are SIP Certified for Sustainable practices. It is estimated that Hope Family Wines produces around 400,000 cases of wine per year.
I am already contemplating my next visit to Paso Robles and will most likely need 2 or 3 days alone to comprehend the expanse of Hope Family Wines. Truly an amazing line up of wine!
Special thanks to Stasi Seay for providing the background and scope of Hope Family Wines over dinner.
Sláinte,
Michael
2018 VJB Cellars Montepulciano and Tuscan Beef Pairing
Photo from VJB Cellars website
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Montepulciano typically is known for its deep color, powerful and sharp tannins with high acidity. Key traits of Montepulciano are oregano, pepper, tobacco, black fruits, plums and sour cherries. On the finish a smoky tobacco is common as well as a rustic countryside quality. Montepulciano’s taste is like Aglianico, Sangiovese and Primitivo. Only 164.9 acres of Montepulciano grapes were harvested per the 2024 USDA National Agricultural Statistics for California representing only .00018% of all red wine grapes harvested in California.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2018 VJB Cellars Montepulciano also has many of these characteristics and traits. It is bright in color and on the nose and palate, red berries, blackberries and dark stone fruit. It is bold and robust and best to be enjoyed with food. The finish provided firm tannins and is long yet with a modicum of vanilla and cocoa was very enjoyable. The finish was a tad “heavy and meatier”, but it fit my wine profile perfectly. The wine pairs with many foods especially with meats and cheeses found in Italy. This wine is 100% Montepulciano grapes from Sonoma Valley.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this bottle out last evening to pair with a Tuscan slow cooked braised beef in wine recipe. The recipe called for three pounds of Chuck Roast cut into small cubes, all-purpose flour, salt, black pepper, olive oil, chopped yellow onion, chopped celery stalk, minced garlic, chopped parsley, red wine, dried whole bay leaves, bone broth, tomato sauce and whole wheat noodles. After browning all the meat on the stove and preparing the sauce, then placed in the slow cooker for eight hours. When the meat was served it was so tender it fell apart with just a fork. Served over the whole wheat pasta and drizzled with fresh parsley. Accompanied by steamed broccoli. The food and wine pairing hit the target with the tannins from the wine standing up to the meat and the flavorful meat enjoying the dark fruit from the wine.
The Winery
Have visited them once for a private tasting and enjoyed all their wines. Today they make an assortment of primarily Italian style wines. They include Prosecco, Tocai Friulano, Aleatico Rose, Barbera, Primitivo, Dante, Sagrantino, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Nero d’ Avola, Negro Amaro, Aglianico, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, a Barbera Port, a Chardonnay Port and various blends.
Besides so many delicious wines to choose from, they offer a food store called La Cucina. They offer all kinds of imported cheeses and meats and provide spectacular food choices. Also their Red Rooster Pizza makes some of the best pizza in all of Sonoma County. Even if you can’t make a wine tasting, these two features are a major bonus!
Slainte,
Michael Kelly
Cabernet Franc Masters 2025: Wine Tasting Seminar on the World of Franc!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I attended one of my favorite events of the year called Cabernet Franc Masters in Paso Robles (#CabFrancMasters) on March 16th. This is the third year that Kunal & Neeta Mittal have spearheaded this outstanding conference. It was held at the Cass Event Center starting at 10 am starting off with a Wine Tasting Seminar: World of Cabernet Franc led by Wes Hagen.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This focused on global expressions of Cabernet Franc wines from around the world both seminar and tasting.
The overview of the session started out with Wes tracing the origins & history of Cabernet Franc, viticulture, geography where Cab Franc is produced, the wine profile characteristics and concluding with tasting Cabernet Franc wines from around the world.
A lot of details and ad hoc comments by the “professor Wes Hagen” on so many subjects regarding this exquisite grape varietal. I believe three are relatively important in comprehending this grape varietal by Wes.
The first is how Cabernet Franc genealogy can be traced via DNA studies. Below this chart shows just how prolific this grape is and its “off springs”.
Slide ©Wes Hagen
The second important factor is the versality and resilience of Cabernet Franc to adapt to various climates around the world. Very few grapes can withstand these temperature, wind and humidity variables.
Slide ©Wes Hagen
The third is a comparison between Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in their key characteristics and differences.
Slide ©Wes Hagen
Once the above factors and others were discussed it was time to make the session empirical with wine tasting. Five wines were featured running the gauntlet of pricing from $25 to $90. The wines in order were the following:
Photo ©Michael Kelly
#1 – 2022 Domaine Brunet Cabernet Franc from Chinon, Loire Valley, France
#2 – 2021 Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore Cabernet Franc from Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
#3 – 2022 Lieu Dit Cabernet Franc from Santa Ynez Valley, California
#4 – 2019 Chateau Haut Ferrand Cabernet Franc from Pomerol, Bordeaux, France
#5 – 2019 Zaha Cabernet Franc from Paraje Altamira, Mendoza, Argentina
Each wine was dissected in understanding its “terroir”, age-worthy status, key characteristics, it’s place in the market and based on location the ability to adapt to climate change. A lot of key and important facts on each wine were discussed. At the conclusion of the tasting a show of hands as to the preferred style by the attendees. While all the wines received votes the out right winner was the 2022 Lieu Dit Cabernet Franc from Santa Ynez Valley, California which goes for around $40 to $45.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The concluding comments about Cabernet Franc were enlightening and timely. They were summed up in this slide:
Slide ©Wes Hagen
This was the third time I have had the privilege of listening to Wes and he covers this broad subject in detail, with humor and amazing side stories from his experience. He truly is a “professor” and provides a quick pace opportunity to learn about this varietal.
Slainte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
#CabFrancMasters
CabFranc Masters Media Dinner at JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery
At the conclusion of the CabFranc Masters Day in Paso Robles last weekend, the media and special guests were invited to JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery for a memorable dinner. It has the distinction of being a one-star Michelin restaurant. However, this evening it could have easily received three! The estate has its own herb garden overlooking the vineyards.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery has also earned a Green Star that recognizes restaurants that hold themselves to the highest ethical and environmental standards. JUSTIN is the only winery in the United States to earn both honors.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The restaurant has also been awarded a Five-Star rating by Forbes Travel Guide as well as Five Diamonds by AAA. It is truly a dining experience to be enjoyed and appreciated.
Picture from https://www.worldsofflavor.com/
The Executive Chef, Rachel Haggstrom, prepared an exotic assortment of foods to be enjoyed. Five wineries provided wines which were exquisitely paired with each dish.
We, Susan Kelly and I, began the evening being seated at a table with Stasi Seay Director of Vineyards at Hope Family Wines, Susan Durbrow National Sales Manager Wineries for Riedel and Amanda Gorter winemaker for Robert Hall. Having just five people at the table allowed lively and fun conversations all evening. During the evening, lots of stimulating and informative dialogue ensued about each winery Riedel glassware and the Paso Robles experience.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The first dish of the evening was called Santa Barbara Uni with cilantro and blood orange paired with a 2023 Blanc de Franc by LXV Wines. The 100% Cabernet Franc wine was aromatic with fresh fruit and traces of violets. On the palate cherries and peach notes. Contrasting with the blood orange and cilantro awoke the senses to the dishes that were to come.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up was Creekstone Farms Prime Beef Carpaccio with pecorio, arugula, cured egg and potato paired with Robert Hall Winery 2022 Cavern Select Cabernet Franc. The wine presented lush aromas of red plum and dried herbs with flavors of blackberry and velvety tannins on the finish. The food and wine pairing were spot on!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Freshly baked bread and hand churned herb butter were also served.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The next dish provided was California Lamb Culurgione consisting of dandelion pesto, pickled mustard seed and lamb braising jus served with a 2022 Mid-Point Irreverence Cabernet Franc. The wine paying homage to Loire Valley tradition 100% Cabernet Franc. Key notes of floral and vegetal defined this wine.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This was definitely one of the table’s favorite food dish of the evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Rounding out the main dishes for the evening was called Braised Creekstone Farms Beef Cheek with mushroom, turnip and braising jus. Paired with a 2017 JUSTIN Justification wine. This wine in the glass was almost black with deep depths of purple juice. Aromas of black and red cherries along with cedar and chocolate sprang into the senses. On the palate the fruits with smoky tannins danced merrily in the mouth. The balance of the two varietals was smooth and enjoyable. This presentation caught our entire table’s interest and was delicious.
Finishing the evening was spectacular, as if it wasn’t already, with a Chocolate Molten Cake with beet and Vanilla Anglaise. This dish was so rich and decadent, it truly was a guilty pleasure!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This was paired with a 2022 Austin Hope Cellar Select Cabernet Franc. Again, a deep dark Cabernet Franc with layers upon layers of flavors and structure. Truly one of the richest and “almost chewable” wines of the evening which enticing flavors paired so well with the dessert.
All the food and wines were simply heavenly, exotic and wonderful but even those words don’t describe the totality of the evening. The service and wait staff were diligent and attentive all evening. On a personal note, my two favorite wines and pairings were the 2017 JUSTIN Justification, and the 2022 Austin Hope Cellar Select.
A very special thanks to Neeta & Kunal Mittal of LXV Wines, Maeve Pesquera Executive VP of Luxury, Chef Rachel Haggstrom, Sommelier Jason Santos, each of the wineries that provided their splendid wines and our table companions for an evening that will forever be etched in our memories.
Slainte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
#cabfrancmasters
2025 CabFranc Masters – Cabernet Franc Food & Wine Pairing Seminar
While attending the various events last weekend, one of the outstanding sessions was called the Versatile Franc Food & Wine Pairing Seminar put on by Sommelier Jason Santos and Chef Charlie Paladin Wayne of Cass Event Center.
When doing my food and wine pairing for my website, I always quote Andre Simon that “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners”. Every wine brings out the best in food and food brings out the best in wine! While some wines can be fully enjoyed by themselves, more often food heightens the experience. There are two distinct methodologies that I and chef, Susan my wife, have used for years. Jason highlighted and emphasized both during the presentation. They are Congruent meaning that the two are in balance and sympatico with each other. This is more akin to a peaceful accord between the food and wine sharing similar flavors or compounds. The other method is Contrasting. This is where a counterbalance effect takes place, more of a Yin-Yang effect, which showcases the opulence in the wine or the exotic flavors in the food.
The key in any food and wine pairing is to taste the food and take a sip of the wine. Repeat and repeat for three times to get the full effect to determine the symbiotic relationship between the two or does one intensify the experience of the other? A great food and wine pairing will result in being the two together are greater than the sum of the parts.
Jason broke down both the wine and food portions into the following categories:
Wine Food
Acidity Sweet
Tannins Sour
Alcohol Salty
Residual Sugar Bitter
“Dominate Flavors” Unami, Spicy
From there were treated to five wines and five foods. The idea was to pair the wines and food to find both a congruent and contrasting pairing. The wines were blindly tasted not knowing who the vintner was, but a full description of the food was given. All were Cabernet Franc or a Cabernet Franc blend. Then, if possible, use the flavor map to highlight the results.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First up was a crostini with Taleggio cheese and roasted grapes. The toasted bread adds a touch of bitterness, balancing the richness of the cheese and sweet-sour nature of the of the roasted grapes. The sweetness in the dish can accentuate the acidity of the wine.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The next pairing was a roasted chicken with Portobello mushroom & farro. The description of loads of brown rice and the mushrooms provided earthy flavors for this dish, making it rich. The earthiness of the dish drives the wine choice – be it to compliment or to contrast it.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The third pairing was personally my favorite a Bee Bim Bop – Kimchi pork roll. While generally consisting of rice, carrots, spinach, soybean sprouts, mushrooms, Korean radish and Gochujang. The details were not fully given but I am working on them and will update this article when I receive them. The outside was coated with an incredible flavor. Some recipes can have up to 30 ingredients.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up was a seared lamb with dark cherries and Dijon. The description was that lamb’s gamey-fatty nature coupled beautifully with the cherries and mustard that counterbalanced the protein. The cherries serve to enhance the dish complimenting the gaminess of the lamb and the mission was to look for a wine that provided a similar experience. After all the tastings were completed, this was the crowd favorite by a show of hands!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The final food pairing was a chocolate and salted caramel truffle. Bitter dark chocolate notes were quickly mellowed by the sweetness of the caramel, then the lightly salted offering perked up the taste buds. Desserts with “dry wines” are generally more difficult but following the bitterness of the chocolate one can generally find a complimentary wine. This was so rich and decadent!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The five wines used were revealed at the conclusion as:
Photo ©Michael Kelly
#1 – 2021 Adeleida Cabernet Franc, Signature “Viking Estate” – 100% Cab Franc
#2 – 2022 Brecon Estate Cabernet Franc, 82% Cab Franc, 9% Cab Sauvignon and small percentages of Petit Verdot, Tannat, Syrah and Malbec.
#3 – 2022 J. Lohr Vineyards and Wines, Cuvee St E, 69% Cabernet Franc, 26% Cab Sauvignon and 5% Malbec
#4 – 2017 Justin Vineyards & Wines Justification, 65% Cabernet Franc and 35% Merlot
#5 – 2022 LXV Wines Reserve Cabernet Franc being 100% Cabernet Franc
Trying different wines with the five foods presented provided a great opportunity to find one or two which either complimented or contrasted beautifully with the foods.
My personal rule of thumb when trying different wines is to rely on my memory of what the wine tasted like from a prior experience and select one that should work. But as with all good plans sometimes it doesn’t necessarily work out that way. This is where one of my favorite anonymous quotes comes into play that I fully endorse “Adventure may hurt you, but monotony will kill you”. Experiment and don’t always go with the conventional thinking on wine and food pairings. And worse case, you can open another bottle wine!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
#CabFrancMasters
2021 Wood Family Vineyards Grenache – With Cornish Game Hens
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First on the eyes, a mesmerizing radiant purple hue that was semi-translucent. On the nose, aromas of bright Bing cherries and exotic tropical spicy notes wafted into the senses. On the palate, is where this “lightly colored” wine packs a world-class punch. Besides the cherries, strawberries coated in powdered sugar, wake up the mouth. Secondary flavors of cinnamon and vanilla rounded out the tasting experience. On the finish, a surprisingly welcomed number of tannins resided on the back of the throat with a hint of herbal sage. A complete and fulfilling Grenache was presented sip after sip. 167 cases were produced. It was aged 18 months in neutral French barrels.
Today’s vintage is 2023 and is even a bit spicier and the current price is $37.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Having roasted Cornish game hens for dinner at a friend’s house for dinner. Not a typical wine pairing, at least for me. Options included Pinot Noir, Rhone varieties, Chardonnay and even Rosé wines. Went with the Grenache based on memory. The Cornish hens were roasted and delicious. Accompanied by roasted potatoes, roasted Brussel sprouts with caramelized onions and a fresh garden salad. The Cornish game hens were moist and tender with the Grenache providing definition but without overpowering the meat. A wonderful food and wine pairing.
The Winery and Background
Wood Family Vineyards, located in eastern Livermore Valley, with Rhonda Wood owner & winemaker, has been producing award winning wines for over two decades. You can read more on her background from airline pilot to award winning winemaker at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2016/02/10/wood-family-vineyards-2/
and
Her awards are extensive and too numerous to list here in this article.
We also enjoyed a few other wines with dinner that were all solid.
Photo by Peter Singh
Sláinte,
Michael
2023 Wood Family Vineyards Chardonnay & Mexican Street Corn Chicken Chili
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
First on the eyes a bright and deep golden color. Swirling the wine in the glass, you immediately see the thick and rich texture of this wine. On the nose when cold, a slight lime note wafted in the senses, but as it warmed up, green apple and a tinge of green tea was present. On the palate most notable was the weightiness of the wine in the mouth. Honeydew melon was the dominant flavor with both a buttery brioche dough and soft lemon zest and almond coming to the party. Also, on the finish a fresh star fruit quality was present. This year the wine encapsulated the mouth with a spring freshness.
The 2023 comes from two vineyards with 70% being Wisner and 30% being from Kalthoff Common area. These are on opposite sides of Livermore. Barrel treatment was 100% French oak with 32.5% being new, 30% being once used, and the balance being neutral. The wine was aged 9 months, and 900 cases were produced. The lees were stirred once every two weeks for five months. It was released in August 2024 at $36/bottle and comes in at 14.6% alcohol.
The 2022 Wood Family Vineyards Chardonnay won Double Gold at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition and fully expect the 2023 to do the same!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a new recipe for Mexican street corn chicken chili. It sounded like a great recipe with rain forecasted for this evening. As you can see from the picture in the nook, it turned out to be a clear and mild day. That did not dampen the taste of the food.
The recipe called for boneless chicken breasts, yellow onion, diced jalapeno, chicken bone broth, sour cream, shredded Monterey jack cheese, minced garlic, dried Oregano, chili powder, sweet yellow corn, chopped cilantro, fresh squeezed lime juice, cornstarch, cotija cheese, bacon crumbles, avocado, diced pancetta, olive oil and tortilla strips.
There were a few options on a wine selection but with the cheese and chicken ingredients selected the 2023 Wood Family Vineyards Chardonnay. It turned out to be perfectly matched food and wine pairing with the Chardonnay, bringing a refreshing and calming effect on the meal. Interestingly, the Chardonnay contrast accentuated some of the spiciness in the dish.
Sláinte,
Michael