Month: November 2023
2019 J-M-L Cabernet Sauvignon from Secret Door – Two Out of Two Christmas Gnomes Recommend It
The Winery
Secret Door is one of the wineries founded by Donald Patz in 2017. The Secret Door is dedicated to making Cabernet Sauvignon from selected vineyards exclusively from the Napa Valley. One of his trademarks is using only 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes with no other grapes blended into the mix. His other brands are 1) Maritana Vineyards making Russian River Valley Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines and 2) Terminim making Mendocino County Marsanne/Roussanne and Syrah wines.
The J-M-L label is dedicated to his partner Jung Min Lee whose caricature is sketched on the label.
The Wine- 2019 J-M-L Cabernet Sauvignon –“Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine shows more of the grace and elegance of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon wines as opposed to the “bold, oaky and with strong tannins”. On the eyes, a deep and dark inky coloration and heavy viscosity. On the nose, light aromas of black cherries and herbal qualities. On the palate, dry robust flavors await the taster. The black cherries are predominate with a tinge of soft “grandfather easy chair pipe tobacco” with moderate oak and black pepper. The finish had smooth tannins yet enough to provide a little pucker in the back of the mouth and counter balanced with a fresh vanilla flavor. It was an easy choice for the Christmas Gnomes to give this wine the nod of acceptance.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was chosen with this anonymous quote in mind, “Adventure may hurt you, but monotony will kill you”. As you will read below, Pinot Noir was the obvious choice for the meal, but wanted to experiment with a secondary recommendation of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
For tonight’s meal a BBQ’ed pork tenderloin with a homemade rub usually calls for a Pinot Noir. It is an obvious choice and one we normally subscribe to. However a dry Cabernet Sauvignon or a mellow Merlot is also considered a secondary choice. The rub consisted of brown sugar, smoked paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, chili powder, Italian seasoning, salt and pepper. Presented with drizzled cherry pepper sauce with was deliciously simpatico with the wine. Accompanied by a Russet potato and roasted halved Brussel sprouts with a glaze of balsamic vinegar reduction.
A very good food and wine pairing meal experiment. Reflectively, while the food and wine were both good, I would opt for the Pinot Noir as the wine of choice going forward with pork tenderloin.
Sláinte,
Michael
2009 Chêne Bleu Abélard – A Love Story from the Middle Ages Between Abélard and Héloïse
The Winery
Truly a remarkable wine on so many levels–from the land, the label, the history and the wine. Firstly, the area is in the Rhone Valley and sits on top of a hillside in Provence, near Gigondas. Here is a picture from their website.
Secondly, the label is as mysterious and elusive as the wine. The label shows their respect of the land and history. They show on the label dozens of references as to what makes their wine and project so unique. Embedded in the label are five “bunny rabbits”. It used to be find them and submit to “Where’s Fluffy?” for a prize from the winery. I think they may have stopped it as I submitted but no reply!
The striking bottle label for Chêne Bleu was designed by British artist Jane Randfield
Now add the name and its meaning for the third facet of this wine. Abélard is one of two of their leading wines, Héloïse the other. In the Middle Ages, Abélard was a theologian and philosopher who had an illicit romance with his disciple Héloïse. Unfortunately they were forced into separation but their love lasted decades of monastic seclusion and correspondence. Abélard, the Grenache blend, is strong, bold and structured. Whereas Héloïse, the Syrah blend, shows a more elegant and softer side with restraint. The winery made both of these wines to showcase their uncompromising commitment of their love, passion and thinking of their vineyard. For more information on this complicated love story click the link: https://www.thoughtco.com/abelard-and-heloise-735128
While all of this and I haven’t even begun talking the wine! If these auxiliary points were not enough to entice you to explore getting this wine, hopefully the description will. This is perhaps one of the largest and extremely robust French wines I have had the opportunity to drink. This is a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah that spent 18 months in French oak barrels.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this out of the cellar last evening to simply savor the wine. Once in the glass, you find the Grenache blend, being strong, bold and structured. Whereas Héloïse, the Syrah blend, shows a more elegant and softer side with restraint to form this remarkable wine. On the eyes, it is a deep ruby red and medium weight. On the nose, aromas of blueberries, licorice and black berries almost overwhelm the senses. The spices of various herbs (pepper & sage) linger in the background. On the palate, one is astonished with the liveliness of raspberries, cherry and mocha which make this wine plush and layered. The finish offers up supple tannins with just enough oak to provide “a passing hint of old world” winemaking. This is truly a rich and concentrated offering.
This is a must wine to be sought after for a memorable experience. While not inexpensive, it is a wine to enjoy immensely. Always one of my favorites and to be listed in my annual Best Wines Tasted this year!
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.chenebleu.com
2019 Maritana Chardonnay “La Rivière” – Uncommonly Delicious
The Winery
I interviewed Donald Patz in his living room back in 2018. He was just starting out his venture with Maritana Vineyards a project for developing and producing the highest quality of grapes for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Here Donald is implementing his strategy to develop a more balanced and “elegant and perfumed version to show through” with choices of grapes with selected aged barrels. On his Pinot Noir, he has secured three vineyards in the Russian River AVA. For this varietal he is using approximately 60% new oak barrels. The wines for Maritana Vineyards will be his Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2017, “Le Russe”; the Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2017 “La Rivière”; Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2017 “Dutton Ranch/Hansen Hill Vineyard” and his Russian River Chardonnay 2017 “Dutton Ranch/Shop Block 1967”. The last using vines planted in 1967 and using 50 year old vines in his Chardonnay production!
Fast forward some five years and today with four decades of experience and intricate knowledge of the vineyards, he has three specific labels. They are:
MARITANA VINEYARDS – Russian River Valley Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
SECRET DOOR WINERY – Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
TERMINIM – Mendocino County Marsanne/Roussanne and Syrah
Recently all his wines received scores in the 90’s (seven with 95 points), which shows his dedication to his craft.
The Wine 2019 Maritana Chardonnay “La Rivière” –“Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The specific goals for all his wines are to have beautiful floral aromas, stabilized and permanent bright coloring to the eye. Lofty and elegant goals to be sure but he is implementing creative and imaginative techniques to achieve his desired outcome. He definitely hit his mark with this Chardonnay. I knew from previous tastings this wine was going to be outstanding. “La Rivière” means “the River” referring to Russian River AVA where the vineyards are located.
First on the eyes, the clarity and brightness were ethereal straw, golden yellow and a heavy viscosity (not normally found in Chardonnay). On the nose, predominate aromas of almonds and pears. On the palate is where this wine is exceptional with its heavy and full mouth-filling essence with light lemon and fresh brioche. A slight sweet finish with flavors of caramel and counter balanced with a modicum of minerality. What the net effect provides is an elegant layered and creamy Chardonnay. This spectrum of quality is generally found in wines costing close to $100 and up. The current price is $55/bottle and it is a blend of three of his vineyards being: Shop Block 1967; Martinelli RR Vineyard and Ritchie Vineyard. The grapes are hand harvested and hand sorted using 95% used and 5% new barrels. It went through 100% secondary malolactic fermentation and is 14.07% alcohol level with 2300 cases being produced.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The dinner at Verona18 was one of their daily specials, grilled swordfish with a mango-pineapple salsa, rice pilaf and seasonal sautéed vegetables.
While knowing the daily specials decided to go with the 2019 Maritana Chardonnay “La Rivière”. While having some citrus in the salsa, the Chardonnay was a solid choice with its “heavy body and full mouth-filling”. A Sauvignon Blanc would have also worked well, but as I have stated many times, it is imperative to experiment with different food and wine pairings to refine one’s taste.
His previous vintages 2017 and 2018 have made my annual Best Wines Tasted. This will definitely be added to the list in 2023 in the $51 and up category.
Other wines enjoyed this evening were all reds with various dishes.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://donaldpatzwinegroup.com/
https://www.coppervalleygolf.com/homepage/current-operations
Unscientific Wine Experiment and Dinner Party
One of our good friends birthday was yesterday and held a fun dinner party to celebrate. We hosted and everyone brought a delicious dish or two! The other part of this evening was to stack up “four Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon” wines with one of them being a Mendocino Cabernet Sauvignon hidden in the blind “competition”. Various AVA’s and years thus the “unscientific” portion of the evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The evening started out with an enticing salmon, capers, cream cheese and purple onion slices with a few wine selections. It looked much better before it was savagely attacked.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Two main entrees were served for dinner, the first being braised and slow cooked beef ribs for 7 hours. The meat was extremely tender and provided the impetus for the Cabernet Sauvignon selections. Shown is only one platter of two of the beef.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The other main dishes was a mesquite baked chicken. Flavorful and extremely moist. Again just a portion of the chicken slices shown.
A beautifully constructed and presented fresh garden salad started off the evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Side dishes included of a mushroom risotto topped off with Parmesan cheese.
Photo ©Michael Kelly.
An artistic vegetable platter consisting of Brussel sprouts, sweet potatoes, carrots and honey baked squash.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
And for the concluding dessert was a sherry infused Bundt cake with vanilla ice cream and singing of Happy Birthday! (editor’s note: he is older than 1 year!!)
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Now the unscientific Cabernet Sauvignon experiment. Pulled three Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon wines from the cellar and they were: 2018 Laura Michael from Rutherford, 2012 Robert Craig from Howell Mountain, 2014 Antra from Spring Valley and the “sleeper” unbeknown to the guests a 2021 BARRA of Mendocino Reserve. From a previous tasting of the BARRA thought it was a very good wine and curious how it would “stand up” to various Napa Cabernet Sauvignon wines. The “unscientific” portion was the years, price points (some up to $118) and AVA’s were all so much different than the BARRA ($28).
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Everyone tasted and made notes and ranked each wine. The clear winner was the 2012 Robert Craig from Howell Mountain vineyard. (see previous posted story at: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2016/01/25/robert-craig-winery/ . The second place wine was the 2018 Laura Michael from Rutherford vineyard. (see previous posted story at: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2021/01/29/laura-michael-wines-and-2015-rutherford-cabernet-sauvignon/ . There was a tie for 3rd place with 2014 Antra from Spring Valley ($75). Antra was a second label of Sarocka Wines. (See a previous posted story at: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2023/07/05/2012-sarocka-spring-mountain-cabernet-sauvignon-ending-the-weekend/) and the 2021 BARRA of Mendocino ($28) (see previous posted story at: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2023/10/30/2021-barra-reserve-cabernet-sauvignon-a-formidable-wine-from-mendocino/)
So to be “more scientific” the next time I would do the following: 1) Go to a local wine store and pick up comparable Cabernet Sauvignon wines at the $28 price point from Napa Valley (none in my cellar!!) 2) then do a comparison of several generic AVA’s of “Napa Valley” Cabernet Sauvignon and 3) purchase a current vintage similar to BARRA being a 2021.
I appreciated the guests indulging me in to sneak in an outlier into the Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon blind tasting. Also all the foods provided were absolutely delicious.
It was a fun evening with many laughs and discussion about food, wines and most importantly friendships.
Sláinte,
Michael
2018 Hoopes Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – Velvety Smooth
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
Photo from Hoopes Vineyard
Hoopes Vineyard has a great tagline with a picture of the dog jumping thru the hoop being “In Dogged Pursuit of Perfect Wines”. From my perspective it could be “we will jump thru hoops to make your experience enjoyable”. Known for their Cabernet Sauvignons and Chardonnays, it was about seven years ago that I visited them. Many things have changed since then, but their wines are still stellular and the boutique and handcrafted wine remain constant. One new tag line used by Hoopes is a quote by e.e. cummings is “lips drink water, hearts drink wine”.
Lindsay Hoopes is the second generation owner of the vineyard. Her father Spencer founded the vineyard and worked the small twelve acre parcel in Oakville producing award winning wines for many years. Lindsay returned in 2012 needing to help out with an illness in the family. Taking full charge she made some unique changes including hooking up with famed vintners Anne Vawter and Jennifer Rue to produce new and bold Cabernets. Lindsay took up the challenge to develop a bio-diverse farming practice initiatives for sustainability certification. Lindsay undertook the adventure to find new and unique vineyards throughout Napa Valley to augment their estate offering. She also founded a rescue sanctuary for animals. In 2020 noted and heralded winemaker Aaron Pott joined Hoopes as the winemaker with his impressive and extensive resume from Napa Valley and beyond.
One of the more enjoyable aspects of the winery is the tasting room, which was their home. Sipping and discussing various wines at the dining room table while looking out into the vineyard adds a “real touch” of genuineness to the experience without pretense.
Today they produce a Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc (Atlas Peak), Chardonnay (Carneros), Syrah (Oak Knoll), Merlot (Howell Mountain) and various levels of distinct Cabernet Sauvignon’s (from $125 to $225/bottle).
The Wine- 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this bottle from the cellar to be enjoyed with dinner. Let it warm up for a few hours at home before bringing it to a dinner party for eleven people.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
While the room was a bit dark, the wine was even darker on the eyes with a cavernous deep almost black coloring! Medium-heavy viscosity being swirled in the glass provided hope of a delicious wine. On the nose, a wet forest floor and freshly cut mushrooms along with a violets wafted into the senses. On the palate, a softness of fruit consisting of black fruit with a tinge of anise. On the finish soft leather and roasted coffee provided a long finish. The uniqueness of this wine from Napa was the lack of “in your face oak and tannins”. While tannins were present, they were velvety and caressing, like tucking in a child to bed. While I personally like a little more punch, knowing one of the guests is not a big oak or tannins advocate, she was overwhelmed sipping the soft and sublime wine with joy.
The wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Oakville and aged 29 months in 100% French barrels, with 60% being new. The alcohol level came in at 15.2% and only 542 cases were produced. It sells for $125/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Again the wine was chosen for the meal knowing I was going to enjoy a steak at Verona18. The filet mignon was cooked perfectly to a lush pink medium rare. Topped with a generous helping of gorgonzola cheese and accompanied by fresh vegetable with mashed potatoes. While mentioning the soft and velvety tannins, they were sufficient to provide and cut through the meat. However, coupled with the “sharp cheese”, it was absolutely exquisite. A wonderful food and wine pairing.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Other wines brought to the dinner provided some great framing for the meals served. One additional bottle was missing from the picture, an Austin Hope Syrah/Mourvèdre blend.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.hoopesvineyard.com/
https://www.coppervalleygolf.com/homepage/current-operations
2020 BARRA Reserve Petite Sirah – Wine as Dark as the Shadows of Night
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
BARRA of Mendocino has a new label for their line of Reserve wines which are all CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers). It is in honor of a historic oak tree found on its home ranch on the Redwood Valley Vineyards. It is both a foiled oak and grape leaves, embossed on a black background. On the back of the bottle it states it is symbolic of their 70 year history making wine as in “Like an old oak tree, our roots run deep”. Martha Barra, winery owner and co-founder stated “A powerful icon in our vineyards, the oak tree represents wisdom and knowledge, strength and endurance, stability and honesty”.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Charlie followed his father and maternal grandfather who migrated to Mendocino County from Piedmont, Italy in 1906. Charlie began farming grapes in the mid 1940’s and in 1954 purchased Redwood Valley Vineyards. He worked vigorously with Karl Wente, Robert Mondavi and others to be one of the first growers of many varietals planted on the North Coast. Today the ranch grows organically Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Muscat Canelli. Besides the BARRA of Mendocino label, they have two other labels, Girasole Vineyards and CORO Mendocino. Charlie passed in 2019 and his wife Martha who worked with him for almost 40 years, is heading the family winery which now stands at 350 acres and a 2.8 million gallon custom crush facility. They launched the BARRA of Mendocino Brand in 1997 and the Girasole Brand in 2003. Their son and daughter also have major responsibilities to keep the “family farm” running.
For more on BARRA’s CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers) and Charlie’s 55 year history developing the land click below for details at:
The Wine 2020 BARRA Reserve Petite Sirah – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
With the statement on the title “Wine as Dark as the Shadows of Night” this wine is not so much lyrical and poetic as it is one of thunder, strength and boldness. First on the eyes the deep carverness black coloring is astonishing in the glass. Bright radiant purple hues surround the edges highlighting the uniqueness and purity of this wine. Showing a medium high viscosity while swirling. On the nose cherry was the dominant aroma wafting into the nose. On the palate an intense concentrated flavor of an amalgamation of blackberry, cherry and blueberry provided a “sweetness of flavor” but not sugary. Secondary flavors of earthiness, black pepper and a tinge of dark chocolate counterbalanced the fruit. The finish was bold and with strong tannins that provided a “chewiness” after sipping this dry and delightful wine. While tannins abounded initially, it morphed into a smooth and complex finish.
This wine was handpicked from their 27 acre hillside vineyard, Bella Collina, located high above the Ukiah valley at 1100 feet elevation. The wine was aged 18 months in 30% new French oak and the remaining in neutral barrels. It comes in at 14.5% alcohol and is listed at $28/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Chose this wine tonight to pair with a center cut large pork chop with a homemade rub, seared and BBQ’d to medium. Served with a drizzle of Cherry Pepper sauce over the slices of pork. A BBQ’d portabella mushroom along with long and short grain wild rice accompanied the meal. Also a “jumbo” artichoke completed a wonderful meal. The wine and the pork were a match made in heaven especially with the Cherry Pepper sauce.
I am personally amazed how BARRA Reserve wines are so excellent at such an extremely reasonable price points. This wine made my list of best tasted wines for 2023 in the less than $50 for value and taste!
Sláinte,
Michael
Down Under Cloudy Bay Winery in New Zealand is Actually Right Side Up!
The Winery
David Hohmen in 1983 tasted his first Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc from his property. He realized its intensity and uniqueness was like no other Sauvignon Blanc in the world. They harvest about 30% less grapes than other vineyards in the area being extremely selective in their picking of the fruit. They purposely sacrifice quantity and reap quality. Cloudy Bay is a founding member of the Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand group. All their vineyards are farmed organically. In the Marlborough region they farm 163 parcels with many close to the Wairau River which in the words “provided a stony, sandy and free draining soils for Sauvignon Blanc”.
While they produce other wine varietals, they turned the world right side up with a Sauvignon Blanc with a distinctive and idiosyncratic character.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is extremely unique in their presentation of this varietal. It is does not fit nor desires to be everybody’s Sauvignon Blanc of choice, it is a desired and sought after wine. While most Sauvignon Blanc wines still provide a tartness, minerality and citrus notes, this flavor profile is at the far edge of this spectrum.
First on the eyes a light glimmering straw color and medium viscosity. However on the nose aromatics of lime, honeydew burst into the olfactory senses. On the palate the intensity grows with ruby grapefruit and lemon zest. Secondary flavors of peach and lime wait patiently for this long finish. This wine provides a power and vigor not normally associated with Sauvignon Blanc.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
While normally keeping some New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc’s in the cellar, I was completely “out” having only various California Sauvignon Blanc wines. So when our “Friday Night Wine & Dine” group met last evening at Verona18 (Copper Valley Clubhouse) and knowing one of the specials at Verona18 was sautéed scallops, a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc was required. The dish was prepared with beurre blanc, rice pilaf, sautéed seasonal vegetables. Having almost memorized their wine list, I knew I could get this wine at the restaurant from their wine list.
The cooking of scallops can be risky and just a few minutes of heat is required. A minute or two more and the scallops become “chewy” and the flavor is gone. These last evening were cooked to perfection. Several others at the table also stated the same. The wine pairing with its citrus qualities proved a beautiful counterbalance to the semi-sweet flavor of the scallops or the sauce. If Verona18 is offering scallops as a special, it truly is worth a drive to indulge in this tasty treat and order this wine!
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.coppervalleygolf.com/homepage/current-operations
2018 Taddei Wines Pinot Noir, Indindoli Vineyard & Pork Tenderloin
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I have met Chris Taddei a couple of times, the winemaker and owner of Taddei Wines. He has been producing small and boutique lots of wines for over twenty years. He is located at the southern portion of Windsor at 7730 Bell Road where he has his tasting room as well as crush pad and barrel storage. He also does custom crushing for many clients.
After graduating from University of Hawaii in Economics and Political Science Chris moved to Seattle for a high tech company. He started making wines in his garage, and started making wines professionally in 2003. After he moved to Sonoma County, he was mentored by Carmine Indindoli and was passionate about understanding wine making especially wine chemistry. His love affair with wine started when he graduated from college and bought a bottle of La Tache at dinner. That wine was his ah-ha moment and as he stated “he had no idea a bottle of wine could be so profound”. When I asked him what attracted him to Pinot Noir he responded “Pinot is moody and seductive, it’s not like other varietals”. He finished off the conversation with a profound sentence stating “Wine is the greatest communication tool ever made. I feel lucky to be able to make something that can be shared in such a positive way”.
While a small boutique winery his production is amazing! Here is a listing of his current releases incorporating different vintages, vineyards, treatments (oaked or unoaked), etc.:
Zinfandel (2)
Cabernet Sauvignon (13)
Rose (2)
Chardonnay (5)
Merlot (1)
Cabernet Franc (5)
Blends (2 or more)
Sauvignon Blanc (3)
Pinot Noir (8)
GSM (1)
Barbera (1)
Viognier (1)
For only making 1,000 cases a year, he has focused on small lots, many being only one or two barrels.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Now about this magnificent wine. First on the eyes, a ruby and brick coloring with a semi-translucent clarity and light-medium viscosity. On the nose, rose petals and freshly picked raspberry aromas waft in the senses. On the palate surprising and welcomed “heavier than expected” and almost chewy tannins appear. Spices of cinnamon and nutmeg, along with prominent strawberry flavors co-mingled with raspberry and cherry created a delightful and caressing explosion in the mouth. The tannins and high acidity were nearly perfectly balanced with the forward fruit to round out the experience. The finish provided some nuances of minerality, deeply intertwined structure and was long lasting. I have often spoken of Pinot Noir as being feminine like a ballet dancer as opposed to a hearty Cabernet Sauvignon being a heavy weight boxer. This wine provides a solid compromise between the two polar opposites, providing a soft presence yet a noticeable layers of flavors. This wine was in 100% new oak with one barrel being French and one being Hungarian. It lists for $65/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine was specifically selected for tonight’s dinner to go with a dry rubbed baked pork tenderloin. This was a slightly new and different recipe that is mellower than a previous one. The dry rub included chili powder, brown sugar, dried oregano, paprika, onion powder, garlic powder, Italian seasoning, fine sea salt, pepper and a little extra virgin olive oil. The slices of pork tenderloin each provided ample flavors to assimilate this refreshing and exquisite wine without overpowering it. The meal was accompanied by roasted halved Brussel sprouts drizzled with a balsamic glaze and a combination of short and long wild rice. The slices of pork tenderloin were served with Stewart and Jasper Cherry sauce and topped with parsley.
This wine made my list of best wines tasted during the year. It is a wonderful Pinot Noir which are becoming harder and harder to find.
Sláinte,
Michael
2020 Iron Hub Wines Small Lot Chardonnay and A Delicious Pad Thai
The Winery
Photo from Iron Hub Winery
The winery was founded by Tom Jones from Lava Cap Winery fame in the Apple Hill area near Placerville. Tom completed his master’s degree in Viticulture & Enology from UC Davis, and for almost 30 years developed award-winning wines. Tom and his wife Beth’s new endeavor began in 2014 with the purchase of the 33 acre property that had been known as Amador Foothill Winery. Having control of the grapes from vineyard to bottle was key in his quest for quality control with 17 acres planted in vines.
The name of the winery came about from Tom’s mountain sojourns in the area. On an adventure he discovered an antique, hand-forged wagon wheel hub in a remote area. Thus this small winery on Steiner Road drew a parallel with his goal of making small lot artisan wines similar to the craftsmanship of the “iron hub” he found on a walk. The beautiful new tasting room was opened in December 2017.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Spencer, their son, following in his father’s footsteps by also graduating from UC Davis with a master’s degree from the Department of Viticulture and Enology, is the winery’s Assistant winemaker. Today, they form a dynamic father-son winemaking team. Tom and Spencer enjoy and demand a hands-on approach to every aspect of the winemaking process, from tending the grapes in the estate vineyards to carefully crafting both red and white wines. They recently added 10 acres managing the Spanish Creek site they are leasing. Having now 27 acres of “estate property” to manage is keeping them very busy. Tom has stated that “Our estate affords me creative control from the vine to the bottle”.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Went back recently to do a re-tasting of this Chardonnay, as I was very impressed the first time I tasted it and immediately felt it was one of the better produced Chardonnay’s. This day, I picked up another case! Chardonnay typically does not do well in the warmer climate of Amador County and when first offered it I was taken back. It was explained that the vineyard for this wine is in Amador County but located at a much higher elevation called Spanish Creek vineyard in the Sierras at an elevation of 2700 feet. The cooler climate is ideal for producing exquisite Chardonnay grapes.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The small lot 2020 Chardonnay on the eyes was a golden straw color with medium viscosity. The first aromas on the nose, was like a lightning strike! Fruits of green apple and pear shouted out their presence in the glass. Secondary flavor of dry apricots were also present. From the first sip a creamy textural wine with previous mentioned fruits came together like a well-orchestrated symphony. Added to the mix was vanilla which was just slightly present on nose and became infused in the glass with gentle oak overtones. The finish was long, poised and glamorous like a family portrait with a hint of brioche. 300 cases were produced and spent 12 months in the barrel. It sells for $34 a bottle and for my money an excellent price. Immediately, this wine made my list of Best Wines Tasted in 2021 with the 2018 vintage and again this will in 2023 with the 2020 vintage (list out mid-December).
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired with a spicy Chicken and Shrimp Pad Thai dish. The ingredients were ramen noodles, virgin olive oil, minced garlic, uncooked shrimp, eggs, bean sprouts, red bell pepper, green onions, peanuts, chopped cilantro and lime juice. The Pad Thai sauce included fish sauce, soy sauce, brown sugar, rice vinegar, Sriracha and creamy peanut butter! Limes were plated to squeeze the juice over the top of the dish. This is how it is was presented:
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Accompanying the meal was a tossed salad with onions, Mandarin oranges and toasted sunflowers seeds in a light Champagne dressing.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Also served were Thai-style asparagus sautéed in a skillet with soy sauce and garlic.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dessert supplied by our guests were both a lemon and pecan tarts that were delicious. Paired with a 2015 Peter Michael “La Carrière” Chardonnay.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A great way to cap off the evening of food, wine, laughter and friendship!
Sláinte,
Michael
Recently Enjoyed Wines With Reference to Previous Stories
Here are a few wines enjoyed over the last forty-five days which I just don’t have the time to review in detail. Each are very good, so I have referenced a previous story published before on either the wine or winery. They are from various AVA’s: Paso Robles, Livermore, Suisun Valley, Calaveras County, Amador, Napa Valley, Enjoy!
Dracaena Wines – Phoenix
Tobin James – Lagrein
Blue Victoria – Cabernet Franc
Cuda Ridge – Carménère
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2023/10/04/cuda-ridge-wines-carmenere-unique-and-intriguing/
Wood Family Vineyards – Bourbon Barrel Aged Red Wine
Villa Vallecito – Cabernet Franc
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2023/03/20/the-2020-villa-vallecito-vineyards-cabernet-franc/
Allegorie – Tempranillo
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2023/02/22/2016-allegorie-tempranillo-2/
Ackerman – Cabernet Sauvignon
Two excellent wines but no story done yet!
Bravante – Cabernet Franc
Rancho Victoria – Petite Sirah
Slainte,
Michael
California Wines & Wineries 