Month: February 2022
2019 Wood Family Petit Verdot – Dark and Delicious Wine and Comfort Food
Background
First, what is Petit Verdot? The literal translation is “little green one”. This is because it is a late ripening grape from the Bordeaux region in France. It is a commonly used grape in blending, usually in small amounts to add color, tannin, structure and herbaceous notes of violet and sage. Today it is common to see 2% to no more than 10% in many Cabernet Sauvignon’s and other wines.
The Winery
Rhonda Wood, winemaker at Wood Family Vineyards, makes some exceptional wines from Livermore, California. The background on the winery can be found in another story at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2021/11/06/2018-wood-family-vineyards-chardonnay/
Rhonda and the family winery are small in comparison to some of Livermore’s known name wineries but have been regarded for years as one of the top-quality wine producers.
From high in the sky to down to earth wines!! Yes Rhonda Wood, winemaker/owner of Wood Family Vineyards used to fly planes (US Airways) but now can be found in the vineyards tending vines. She and husband Michael (with their two sons), have a winery in eastern Livermore. Rhonda started making wine in 1996. Besides sourcing wine on their property, they are have 17 specific vineyards which are manicured to their specifications throughout Livermore’s ideal climate.
The Wine
While I have written and very much enjoyed all of Rhonda wines, I tasted the 2019 Petit Verdot a week ago at her winery in Livermore. I was taken back and savored every sip so much I walked out with a case of Petit Verdot! First on the eyes this is cavernous dark wine almost black. It possesses a medium heavy viscosity when swirling in the glass. On the nose intense aromas of red (cherry), black fruits (plums) and violets great you. On the palate, the predominant trait are chewy cherries, but not sweet! Followed by leather, tobacco, anise and a slight vanilla quality. The finish was dry and the tannins were present but not “pointy”. The winery used 25% new French oak, 25% one-time used French oak and 50% twice used French oak. They are going to release the 2019 shortly at $34/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing
In the title of this article was “comfort”. As the last few nights were cold in the Sierra foothills, comfort food is always welcome on a cool evening. Last night a roast beef, cooked for hours in a crock pot hit the bullseye. Coupled with a Russet potato and fresh garden salad it was spectacular in flavoring and taste with the Petit Verdot. Petit Verdot is often associated with spicy sausage or game meats, but this wine with the roast beef with a dash of Tabasco hit the spot and warmed the soul.
I am certainly pleased to have more Wood Family Petit Verdot in the cellar!
Sláinte,
Michael
2018 L’Autre Côte Cabernet Franc – The Best of Two Vineyards Combined
It is not often that one sets out to turn the world upside down, but that is exactly what Steven Kent Mirassou is attempting with his newest label call L’Autre Côte meaning the “other coast”. The L’Autre Côte brand falls under The Lineage Collection. The goal is to make world acclaimed Cabernet Franc wines from two of Livermore’s well-known vineyards. He accomplished that in 2017 with his two versions of Cabernet Franc, one from Ghielmetti Vineyard and one from Sachau Vineyard. He made 50 cases. Both sold out almost immediately and for the full story on his 2017 read: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2021/04/15/lautre-cote-cabernet-franc-a-tale-of-two-vineyards-ghielmetti-and-sachau-vineyards/. Since that article was written he received 96 points for his Ghielmetti Vineyard and 94 points for his Sachau Vineyard Cabernet Franc wine. Remember this was his inaugural release.
The 2018 L’Autre Côte continued with using two designated vineyard Cabernet Franc wines, but this year he combined the two together as it produced a higher quality Cabernet Franc. In his words “the wine is truly magical because their irreducible wholeness comes about as a function of their purity of fruit, balance of acidity and overt sexiness”.
The 2018 L’Autre Côte Cabernet Franc
Ghielmetti and Sachau Vineyards have been a long-time source for Steven’s wine be it Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc. The one block at Ghielmetti of Cabernet Franc Clone 332 is 3.7 acres in size. Sachau vineyard is six acres in size with a loamy soil. The 50/50 combination of the two (each aged separately) then with 4% Cabernet Sauvignon added provided the best of both vineyards. On the eyes, a bright and dark reddish/purple coloring and with medium viscosity. On the nose a very fruit forward aroma of raspberry and blackberry fruits. On the palate, besides the fruit bursting excitement, you are rewarded with chocolate, jasmine tea and minerality. The finish provides rounded and defined tannins without edges, giving one a silky landing. The finish is mid-lasting and a tinge of fruit sweetness, yet with subtle pyrazines in play. Using once used French barrels, this wine does not have a predominance of oak but rather allows the fruit to be showcased. This wine will be released in early March and most likely be on allocation at $98/bottle with 145 cases produced.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Paired this evening with a Filet Mignon, pan seared and then baked shortly and served medium rare. Topped with a Blue cheese-chive butter. Accompanied by a baked Russet Potato and roasted brussel sprouts. The acidity in the wine was spot on to provide enough power to pair with the beef. A delightful meal for sure.
This wine is surely destined to be age worthy for 10-12 years. Steven’s 2018 will be scoring high ratings and winning awards once released.
Sláinte,
Michael
2012 Detert Family Vineyards Cabernet Franc – Historical Winery and A Real Classic Wine
The Winery
Those familiar with Detert Family Vineyards know that Detert is an established winery. W.F. Detert came to the US in 1866. He operated a gold mine in Jackson, sold it and in 1912 he owned 22,000 acres in Guenoc Ranch in Lake County as well as other ranches/gold mines in Amador Placer and El Dorado Counties. W.F. died in 1929 and it was managed by his son Richard Detert who died in 1951. Tom Garrett, one of the current owners, great-grandmother, Hedwig Detert, sold the Guenoc Ranch and purchased 50 acres of the To Kalon Vineyard from Martin Stelling estate in Oakville in 1954.That is when the Detert Vineyard was named. Today it is known as one of the most prestigious vineyards in all of Napa Valley. In 1966 Detert Vineyards started selling their grapes to Robert Mondavi. For many years Robert used Detert Family Vineyards Cabernet Franc for blending. Today the owners of Detert are all great grandsons of Hedwig Detert: Tom Garrett, John Garrett and Bill Cover. Their first commercial wines were Cabernet Franc (2000) and Cabernet Sauvignon (2002).
Tom Garret hosted me many years back and with his experience at Turley, Joseph Phelps, Robert Mondavi, and under Heidi Peterson Barrett as her assistant winemaker for Revana, he has “it down pat”. For five years in a row their Cabernet Franc made the “Best of the Year” on my favorite wines tasted during the year.
The Wine
This wine came up on my “To Drink Now in 2022” list with 10 years of aging. When looking at the Detert Family Vineyards logo one might expect a “gnarly, rough and tumble” wine. Nothing could be further from the truth as their Cabernet Franc is smooth, a full mouth lingering pleasant concoction of chocolate, and numerous layers of berries and tobacco. On the eyes is a deep crimson color with purple hue around the edges. On the nose, aromas of violets, black cherries fill the senses. On the palate, the predominant flavors of dark chocolate, plum and soft vanilla pipe tobacco provide an exhilarating taste. A secondary flavor of anise and minerality are also present. The finish as mouth filling and broad as is it being long lasting and constantly beckoning yet another sip. Only 165 cases were produced. The current release is the 2018 and cost is $95.
The winery is truly historical and the wine a real pedigree for understanding the wonders of Cabernet Franc.
Sláinte,
Michael
2017 Casino Mine Ranch Vermentino – A Beautiful Alternative to Sauvignon Blanc
The Winery
Jim & Rich Merryman grew up on this Amador property in California on weekends and vacations with their parents. The property was originally their Great Aunt Simone’s which she bought it in 1936 and was convinced “gold was still in the hills”. She and her workers dug mines in the hillside anxiously wanting to strike gold, as she had previously done so successfully in Alaska. It was a big gamble but no gold was found. Thus the name Casino Mine Ranch. Over the years Jim & Rich purchased the property from their parents (who inherited it from Simone).
This 60 acre site currently has 14 acres planted. While not striking gold, they did find an underground creek, which by today’s standard is almost as valuable as gold. This underground creek runs directly below their planted vineyard.
Now as fate would have it, Casino Mine Ranch was a hillside property with the abandoned mining caves, when Rich invited his friend Andy Erickson to visit. They spent many weekends shooting skeet and apparently imbibing in Bud Light. During one weekend, Rich suggested he would plant grapes, if Andy agreed to be the winemaker. Fast forward 11 years and Rich had planted Teroldego, Grenache, Tempranillo, Mourvèdre and Vermentino varietals on the property. He then got ahold of Andy, who today is one of the top 5 winemakers in Napa with a resume of making wines for Screaming Eagle, Harlan Estate, Staglin Family Vineyards, and Mayacamas Vineyards. These are recognized as the elite pedigree of wines that Napa has to offer. Andy, true to his word, is the Consulting winemaker and Jessica Tarpy Shasheen is the winemaker under Andy’s direction. They make their wine at a custom crush house in Napa so both Andy & Jessica can be hands-on without driving to Amador County.
The Wine
Pulled this bottle out of the cellar for tonight’s dinner. This was by far the best Vermentino I have tasted out of the Sierra foothills! Half the world production of Vermentino comes from Sardinia, Italy. This was fermented in stainless steel but dimensions of citrus (lemon/honeysuckle) and tropical flavors of mango, sweet lemon and grapefruit were outstanding. On the eyes a light yellow straw coloring and light bodied might get one to think this may be wimpy. No way! On the nose pink grapefruit, pear and various citrus zests came rushing to beckon the first sip. When on the palate, lemon, mango and grapefruit were the overarching characteristics. The finish was a bit abrupt with a nutty (almond) and a slight bitterness. This bitterness is due to the high levels of phenols in Vermentino. Yet refreshing, crisp and a wonderfully sharp wine. At $26 a bottle this is a unique alternative to Sauvignon Blanc for a change up!
The Food and Wine Pairing
Tonight’s meal was with our informal “Wine & Dine Group” at Vine18 at the Copper Valley Golf Club. A special of sesame crusted Mahi Mahi, rice, wasabi ginger coleslaw with pickled ginger and Calabrian sweet chili sauce. Perhaps one of the best special dishes served over the last five years!! The flavors combined with the wine provide a mouth filling and delightful experience.
That was my last bottle in the cellar and I will be picking up a few more next time in Amador County.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwines.com
2019 Hindsight Chardonnay – Aromatic, Clean and Crisp
The Winery
Hindsight Wines grapes are from around Napa Valley as well as Estate grown. Their wines range from Carneros to Howell Mountain to Calistoga. For more details on their well know Cabernet Sauvignon’s (as well as their Sauvignon Blanc) see a previous written story:
The 2019 Chardonnay
Pulled a 2019 Hindsight Chardonnay from Napa Valley from the cellar to enjoy with dinner. Second time I have tasted the 2019 Chardonnay so was very excited to see how it was holding up to the first review. The wine not only equaled the first experience but surpassed it. First on the eyes a light straw color and medium viscosity. On the nose it was very aromatic with very soft floral notes of jasmine and honeysuckle. On the palate is where some strong flavors of pear and green apple prevailed with a hint of vanilla. On the finish, minerality and a very embracing soft acidity were evident. The words that come to mind while enjoying this lovely Chardonnay are crisp, refreshing, clean, defined and stately opulence. This Chardonnay is sourced from both Carneros and Oak Knoll AVA’s. It is fermented in stainless steel, then aged 3 months on the lees in neutral French oak. It does not have that “buttery finish” and seemed more “old world” in its flavor profile of great European Chardonnays. The wine is listed on their website at $32/a bottle and check out their website for amazing sales!
The Food and Wine Pairing
Paired this evening with a mesquite chicken, Yukon potato and fresh garden salad with Champagne dressing. A wonderful contrast with the smokiness of the chicken and the crisp and clean taste of the Chardonnay.
No matter which wine you chose from Hindsight wines, your Hindsight will ask you “why didn’t I discover these wines sooner”. As they say Hindsight is always 20/20!
Sláinte,
Michael
2013 YoungInglewood Right Bank – Worthy of the Wait!
The Winery
This small winery is best-known for their Cabernet Sauvignon and “Bordeaux blends”, as they are situated on historic vineyard land in St. Helena, California. However, they’ve got a passion for several white wines like Chardonnay, Vin Clair and a rare Aligote that is oak aged. One of the most enjoyable aspects of visiting YoungInglewood Winery is not just the tasting of exquisite wines, but partaking in intelligent, purposed and thoughtful discussion of wine.
To begin, Jim and Jacky met while in college and shared a passion/drive with wine. Jim and Jacky Young bought a historic piece of land in southern St Helena and have today all five Bordeaux varietals planted. It is truly a family winery with Jim handling the operations and Jacky and son Scott, being the co-winemakers on property. Their daughter, Mary helps in the operations as well as providing an occasional flute recital. Their Wine Education Director/Membership Director, a longtime friend Mark Simon is always there to help out in various capacities.
Their time spent in Europe cultivated a real sense of old world wines and that is exactly how they construct both their red and white wines. They like to describe themselves as presenting “old world non-interventionist” winemaking techniques. It surely shows in their incredible wines.
I seldom talk about wine labels but theirs is the exception. The label is one of the simplest yet says so much about their wine with the balancing of the tightrope walker. This is a paradigm for balance in the fruit, tannins, acidity and color. A little too much of any one item, and a misstep happens. Even deeper is their aspiring sense of balance in life, starting in the vineyards with organic and sustainable practices.
You can read previous stories:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2016/02/16/younginglewood/
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2021/04/06/younginglewood-2014-malbec-and-portuguese-sausage/
The Wine
Pulled this bottle out of the cellar the other night “just for fun”. While it was fun, it was even more as the enjoyment was worthy of the nine year wait! The wine is from their estate fruit. Barreling was 100% French oak with 40% being new barrels and aged 21 months. The blend used 86% Cabernet Franc and 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and only 136 cases produced. Each year the percentage mix and grapes are varied based on the winemaker and what nature provides.
On the eyes an alluring and dark concoction with red and purple highlights with medium to medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose aromatics of raspberries and dark fruits. On the palate, this is one of the quintessential Cabernet Franc’s with hints of blackberries, strawberries and only a faint trace of pyrazines. The finish provided silky and rounded tannins, a soft earthiness. Truly a remarkable and elegant Cabernet Franc. The current vintage is 2017 and the 2018 is going to be released in two weeks. Price is $110.
This wine will make my Best Wines Tasted in 2022 for sure. Treat yourself to a visit to YoungInglewood Winery as each wine is purposed and handcrafted.
Sláinte,
Michael
2018 Smith-Madrone Estate Chardonnay – A Bold Chardonnay Like No Others!
The Winery
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker and Sam Smith is the assistant winemaker. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Annual production is between 3,000 to 4,000 cases a year. Currently they are producing Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc).
The Wine
This is the first time I had the opportunity to taste their Chardonnay. First, if you are buttery Chardonnay wine lover stop reading as this is not your wine. This wine being dry farmed, has enough minerality to mirror spelunking in a cave. The wine tastes like no other Chardonnay in recent memory and I have enjoyed many Chardonnays.
The wine on the eyes immediately let one know this is “not ordinary”. Rather than your typical light straw or golden coloring, this is a combination of a green and yellow color. Unfortunately, it does not come across in the photo. Next on the nose, apple is the predominant aromatic. Then on the palate is where this wine makes you do summersaults trying to figure it out! The first sip is one of minerality combined with stone fruits. If you were doing a blind tasting, you would be hard pressed to understand if this was a Chardonnay or blend of Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay, Picpoul Blanc/Chardonnay or Pinot Blanc/Chardonnay. The wine is lively, bouncy and flamboyant with a sophisticated and opulent presence on the palate. The finish is mid-length, structured and crisp with strong but not out of control acidity. It is still a lighter wine (as opposed to a Roussanne or Marsanne) being a Chardonnay, but a mysterious and elusive taste, eluding a typical Chardonnay. The wine is from Spring Mountain, barrel fermented for 9 months in 55% new French oak. Only 945 cases were produced and it goes for $45.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Paired with a chicken Piccata, baby asparagus and Yukon smashed potatoes. The wine was very enjoyable with this dish.
Essentially, the wine leaves one in a conundrum, scratching one’s head trying to define the traits, flavors and quality. In the end, I simply gave up on the mystery and enjoyed a great and unique wine. Worthy of your consideration and guaranteed at a blind tasting with friends to befuddle them with flavors with an enjoyable wine.
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Wood Family Vineyards “Against the Grain” Bourbon Barrel Aged Wine – Unique, Smooth and Worthy of Consideration.
The History of Using Bourbon Barrels For Wine
In the early 1980’s, American oak barrels were expensive for many start up wineries. By law bourbon barrels have to be 100% American oak and can only be used one time to distill bourbon in the United States. So after their use, many barrels became available for “other distilled spirits” and wineries to purchase at a fraction of the price of new French or new American oak barrels. So why doesn’t everyone purchase used bourbon barrels? Key is that whiskey barrels are produced differently than wine barrels. Whiskey barrels are charred on the inside verses wine barrels which are toasted. By only toasting wine barrels, the wine while aging develops many nuances of flavor. Bourbon barrel aged wines tend to be bold with ripe reds, vanilla, smoky and with muted tannins.
The use of bourbon barrel aging has taken off more recently with wineries using these barrels. Some view it as a trend to attract Millennials who buy whiskies. Others view it as a crossover from spirits to wine and yet the resulting wine is unique, smooth and provides an enjoyable sipping experience. The spirits barrel aged category of wine earned $120 million in 2019 compared to $800,000 in 2015. This market is exploding due to the flavor profile not just with Millennials but with wine aficionados looking to enhance their experience.
Wood Family Vineyards 2019 Against the Grain
Last week I was given an advance bottle to review of the 2019 release of “Against The Grain” that uses the following blends: 40% Syrah, 25% Mourvedre, 25% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot. The 2018 blend used 28% Merlot, 28% Syrah, 14% Mourvèdre, 9% Petite Sirah, 7% Malbec, 7% Petit Verdot and 7% Cabernet Franc. Each year it is a different blend. All the components of the blend are aged in traditional wine barrels (30% new and mostly French oak) before blending and transferring to the bourbon barrels. The first year production was 2016 with 43 cases produced, 2017 it increased to 88 cases and the 2018 vintage, 138 cases were produced. This year, 2019, Rhonda Wood produced only 45 cases due to constraints of bourbon barrels to infuse her wine! This vintage was aged eight weeks in bourbon barrels. The wine will be released in March timeframe and will most likely be sold for around $45.
The wine on the eyes was a cavernous purple coloration with medium heavy viscosity. On the nose, the flavors of Syrah like blueberry, mocha and roasted coffee came to mind. The first sip on the palate detonating the senses with a smooth bourbon along with some jammy, cinnamon, smoke and dark berry characteristics of the actual wine blend. The finish was equally pronounced with smoothness, smoke and a hint of bourbon on the back of the throat. The tannins were almost unnoticeable but layers of flavor and structure were present due to the wines used and the bourbon barrels. This year’s wine comes in at 15.7% alcohol.
Food and Wine Pairing
Paired with bone in Short Ribs served with Yukon garlic mash potatoes and demi-glace with seasonal vegetables at Vine18 restaurant in Copperopolis. The combination of the smokiness of the meat and “Against the Grain” was spot on again!! A great combination.
Conclusion
I had purchased the previous releases and always pleased to have a few bottles in the cellar. It has for the last two years made my list of Best Wines tasted under $50. This is unique and worthy of trying. The 2019 is a “bit softer” on the Bourbon than 2018 and the wine is more rounded which should appeal to a broader audience. It is really a wine to be consumed and not aged. Rhonda states on the back of the bottle “let this bold wine, with unique bourbon influences of vanilla, caramel and smoke, remind us to step outside of the box, go against the grain and have a little fun in this life of ours”. Truer words could not sum up this wine experience better!
Sláinte,
Michael
2018 Gossamer Negroamaro a Solid Pairing with Creole Jambalaya
The Winery
The etymology of the word gossamer originated in Middle English as “goose summer” or “gos mer”, late summer warmth, when the geese where in prime condition to be eaten! Over time it has morphed into an adjective “gossamer” meaning “light, delicate or tenuous” like a butterfly wings. Thus on the bottle of Gossamer Cellars a delicate butterfly or fairy is depicted with butterfly wings. To this end, it is appropriately named as Gary Grant “flitters from varietal to varietal” making unique, high quality and lesser known wines for those open to experience the vast world of wine!
Gossamer Cellars located in Murphys, California is one of the gems of the Sierra Foothills. Their “motto” written in chalk in a very tiny tasting room sums up their goal and lifestyle “Adventure may hurt you, but monotony will kill you” (Anonymous). See the complete story at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2019/01/18/gossamer-cellars-a-unique-find/ .
This is about one of their wines called Negroamaro that I pulled from the cellar. Grown in the Sierra Foothills, this grape is a dark-skinned and best known in the Puglia region in Southern Italy (the heel of the boot). The name Negroamaro translates “dark, bitter”. The typical characteristics are red cherry, forest fruits, licorice and tobacco. With aging (5-10 years) the wine can develop aromas of black pepper, prunes, earthy notes, blackberry and dried thyme.
The Wine
This wine on the eyes was not as dark as some of the Italian Negroamaro’s but don’t let it fool you. It possessed a purple and crimson hue and was medium to medium heavy viscosity. Aromas of plum, dark cherry were prevalent. In the mouth, besides dark fruits, licorice and tobacco, a tinge of green pepper was present along with an almost bitter rhubarb but with food, a latent slight sweetness of the plum & cherry came forward. The finish was dry with both medium to medium-heavy tannins and acid. Definitely an “old world” flavor is what you are left savoring. This is a hearty wine to be enjoy with food not a sipping wine. Price is $28 and you can be transported back to Italy!
The Food & Wine Pairing
Paired this evening with an authentic Creole Jambalaya dish with chicken, shrimp and sausage. Other ingredients included: Slap Ya Mama Cajun seasoning, sliced andouille sausage, sliced chicken breasts, diced onion, diced bell pepper, chopped celery, minced garlic, crushed tomatoes, salt, black pepper, dried thyme, dried oregano, red pepper flakes, hot pepper sauce, Worcestershire sauce, sliced okra, white rice, chicken broth, deveined and peeled shrimp, sliced green onion and chopped parsley. Served with a side of broiled brussel sprouts and fresh sourdough bread. A wonderful and mouth filling meal that packed a “punch of flavors and heat”! The wine was wonderful cutting thru the spices and tomatoes.
Sláinte,
Michael
A Triple Play of 2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon’s
A beautiful golfing day with weather at 72 degrees. Picture is hole number 9 a par 5 with snowcapped Sierra Nevada’s in background.
After golf with friends and back at the house, I opened a grouping of 2011 Cabernet Sauvignons from the cellar. All were premier Napa wineries.
BV Georges de Latour, Larkmead Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, O’Shaughnessy Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon. All were excellent wines.
Sláinte,
Michael
California Wines & Wineries 