Month: July 2026
2017 Vivác Winery Cabernet Franc – Concentrated Goodness at 5,600 ft Elevation!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Photo from Vivác Winery Facebook page
Vivác winery sits at roughly 6,000 feet elevation in a valley in New Mexico. Similar to high altitude Malbec wines from the upper Calchaquí Valley (up to 10,000 feet elevations), the intensity of the flavors were equally matched. In fact the winery name Vivác (pronounced vee-vok) is a mountaineering term meaning high altitude refuge, related to an ancient Spanish word bivouac.
High elevation vineyards tend to receive more direct and concentrated sunlight. For example, for every 1,000 feet gain in elevation, the level of UV rays increase by 10-12%. This forces the fruit to develop thicker skin, leading to greater color concentration and sharp and edgy tannins.
The Winery
Photo from Vivác Winery Facebook page
The Vivác Winery is truly a family affair. Today it consists of Chris Padberg (co-winemaker, Jesse Padberg (co-winemaker), Liliana Padberg (co-business management team) and Michele Padberg (co-business management team). The truly unique fact of this winery is not only they are co-owners, but each has their Sommelier certifications from various institutions. They know quality wine! The winery is 45 miles north of Santa Fe and roughly 25 miles south of Taos.
Just a few of their many awards are:
*2023 Los Angeles International Wine Competition for their Tempranillo
*2023 at the Texas International Wine Competition won Platinum for their Sangiovese
*2022 they won Gold at the Mondial des Vins Extremes for their Merlot and Syrah
*2021 they won Gold at Berliner Wein Trophy Competition for their Montepulciano
*And many more awards for Chardonnay and various Rosé wines from France, Germany and Italy.
Today they are producing various red wines including Sangiovese, Syrah, Barbera, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Refosco, Nebbiolo, Arandel and a red blend. For the whites, they produce Chardonnay, Gruner Veltliner, Riesling and a white blend. Additionally they also offer several blush wines and even a port.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
It was with great anticipation that I opened this Cabernet Franc from New Mexico and with altitude. The Abbott Vineyard is a short distance from the winery and sits at 5,800 feet elevation. The vineyard is approximately 40 years old. The collective terroir is experienced in each sip of this wine.
First on the eyes this wine is cavernously dark in color and medium heavy viscosity. Once poured into the glass, the aromas unmistakably showed it’s “cab franc-ness” pedigree, shouting out to the olfactory senses enticing one to savor its pedigree. On the nose sweet red raspberry was dominate with intense violets. On the palate, “high altitude” intensity was evident on the first sip with gravely rocks and earthy dustiness. After letting it open up for a good 30-40 minutes, brought forth fruit of raspberry and red cherry. Secondary flavors of clove, cinnamon, oak. At the finish a combination of both silky and edgy tannins coated the mouth. Soft and inviting oak also concluded the experience. Definitely a “food wine” unless you want a chewy Cabernet Franc!
The winery current vintage is 2023 and sells for $32/bottle and is comprised of 75% Abbott Cabernet Franc, 10% Syrah,, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Sangiovese. It is aged 14 months in French oak and 98 cases were produced.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly