Solid Wine, Great Food But a Poor Wine and Food Pairing!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
My wife found a great recipe for Chinese Chicken Salad. Being that it was 114 degrees today, she cooked the chicken the night before to have a cold salad for dinner. The recipe looked enticing. Traditional food and wine pairing wisdom leans toward a dry Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc. We just had a Sauvignon Blanc the night before and my favorite dry Riesling, Smith-Madrone Vineyards, is in a refrigerator locker storage about 30 minutes away. So took the opportunity to try a different approach with a Cabernet Franc Blanc, 2022 L’Autre Côte from Steven Kent Winery. Again, one of my favorite anonymous quotes is “Adventure may hurt you, but monotony will kill you”. Thus, the adventure began albeit not successful.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First, if you are a red Cabernet Franc lover, you will find tasting this wine a mind-challenging experience. For me it certainly was! First on the eyes, it is difficult to visualize and comprehend a Cabernet Franc Blanc! Secondly when smelling it very little of the typical red fruit qualities waft into the senses. Then the first sip, you are startled that this is a Cabernet Franc with little red fruit taste. Now after closing one’s eyes and sipping many times, once you can calm your uncomfortableness, an entirely new world opens.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine on the eyes is a clear elixir with almost “no coloring. On the nose fresh floral fragrances and almond are noted. Once on the palate the magic appears with honeydew melon, white peach, mellow apricot and a sweet grapefruit. The finish provides a definite crispness of citrus notes but still subdued. A very complex finish with a Yin-Yang struggle and contentment of a red Cabernet Franc verses a white Cabernet Franc. In this wine they gracefully co-exist and accentuate the unique flavors of the juice.
Steven Mirassou’s goal for this wine was straightforward “…..I wanted Cab Franc Blanc to be a white, crisp and pure with a flavor profile that makes for a delicious and fascinating wine. And I think that is exactly what we got”.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Now the tricky part! The dinner meal was a new recipe called Chinese Chicken Salad containing Chinese cabbage, red cabbage, shredded carrots, scallions and chicken. Garnished with crunchy noodles, green onions and sesame seeds. The Asian dressing combined soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil, canola oil, brown sugar, fresh ginger, minced garlic and black pepper. The dressing was mixed in a bowl to be served and if needed additional dressing was available. The dish was fantastic and now a favorite of mine especially during the hot summer.
Now the catch: If we had a dry Riesling it would have with its bright fruit and high acidity balanced soy sauce and sesame oil. Or if a Sauvignon Blanc was served it with its citrus and herbal notes cut through the oily dressing and highlighted the fresh greens and help cut through the fat content of the dressing. The Cabernet Franc Blanc, with its delicate aromas and tastes, was overpowered by the dressing. Finally stopped drinking the wine with dinner and enjoyed it after dinner as picked up the fine delicate and finesse aromas/tastes.
The Winery
Steven Kent Mirassou, providing his traditional award-winning style and experience from his Cabernet Sauvignon and red Cabernet Franc’s wines embarked a couple of years back on this new journey with this release coming out initially in March 2023. Since then, he was won many prestigious awards for his Cabernet Franc Blanc, L’Autre Côte.
Here is just one past link to his red Cabernet Franc winning Best of Class:
Venturing into this new “blanc” wine is something he has been contemplating for some time and in 2022 set out to provide his take with a white Cabernet Franc. The goal to get the fruit to the winery immediately and to get it pressed. Fast, gentle whole cluster press and no soaking. Put into the fermenter at 49 degrees it took almost a month to bring the wine to a completely dry quality.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly