2023 Starfield Vineyards Aglianico – A Scarce but Growing Varietal
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background on the Aglianico
Aglianico wine grapes origin continues to be debated but thought initially is that the grape varietal was transported by Greek settlers to Southern Italy around 800 BC. However, DNA studies show no direct link to modern Greek varieties, leading many to believe it is native to southern Italy. The first written record of Aglianico was in 1520. This grape, like many others, was nearly wiped out by the late 19th century phylloxera invasion.
Aglianico is a full-bodied red wine with high acidity and tannins. Typically, with dark fruit like black cherry and plum, minerality and earthy elements are key characteristics. If you enjoy Nebbiolo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and/or Nero d’ Avola, while all are different and unique, each share some key characteristics, full body, tannins, acidity and fruit with Aglianico.
In the final 2025 Grape Crush Report for California by the USDA, Aglianico in California harvested 190 tons as compared to 161 tons in 2024. While California showed a decrease in the harvest from 2024 to 2025 of 7% for red wine grapes, Aglianico showed an increase of 11% from 161 tons to 190 tons.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
While having enjoyed many Aglianico wines over the years, I have never had one from El Dorado AVA. My expectations were pleasantly exceeded with this dark and brooding wine offering both earthy notes and fruits. First on the eyes, a dark wonderment in the glass with medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose, dark cherries, violets and plum rose up to the olfactory senses begging for that first sip. On the palate a yin-yang of old world minerality and earthiness counterbalanced with delicious aromatic fruits provided an intense flavor and yet balanced to perfection. The finish was medium length and refreshing.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine is made with 95% Aglianico, 3% Mourvedre and 2% Roussanne. It comes in at 15% alcohol and only 177 cases were produced. The wine was aged for 18 months in 27% new oak barrels and the balance being neutral. The wine underwent partial malolactic fermentation to keep the acidity lively yet softening the tannin structure. A creative process to achieve a remarkable wine.
Personally, to go with this meal, I would have liked a bit more tannins and boldness in the wine. That said, it was an extremely approachable and smooth Aglianico.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this wine from the cellar to pair with a new recipe called stuffed pepper casserole. Ingredients included olive oil, chopped yellow onion, cut bell pepper, ground beef, tomato paste, kosher salt, ground cumin, paprika, black pepper, minced garlic cloves, fresh tomatoes, cut up zucchini, chicken broth, long-grain rice, fresh parsley, Worcestershire sauce and sharp cheddar cheese. Accompanied by a fresh garden salad with Blue cheese crumbles, green onions and baby tomatoes.
The food and wine pairing was very good with the combination of fruit and spiciness of the dinner.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The winery was founded in 2012 by Tom and Rob Sinton with plantings of 31 acres on the hillsides east of Placerville, California in El Dorado County. They are located at 2759 Jacquier Road.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The naming of the wines, especially their new labels starting with the 2023 vintages, highlight the history of the region from the Gold Rush with wine names as Miner’s Inch and Rising Hope. These two are for a nearby mine.
The winery produces 17 varieties of wines comprising of mostly Rhone varieties (66%) and Italian (30%) and a few Spanish varieties. The vineyards have been farmed using sustainable and fish-friendly farming since their inception.
The wineries name Starfield refers to “Star Fields”, sites where in their words “fruit develops the optimal balance of aroma, flavor and texture”. They also consider what they refer to as Sierra Spice, the aroma and taste characteristics that come from the western facing forests surrounding the vineyards. The local trees are Ponderosa Pines, Cedars and Douglas Firs and their oils provide earthy and woodsy forest aromatics from their oils.
Sláinte,
Michael