wine
2014 Tate Wine Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon – A Perfect Fall Wine
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background and The Winery
Picture from Tate Wine website
Remembering back to 2016 when I first met David and Suzanne at lunch, the conversation was about price points on quality/artisan wines/authentic vineyard production which was so refreshing by a relative newcomer, like TATE Wines.
First a little history on how TATE Wines came to existence. Suzanne’s brief history while going to college in Austin, Texas (where she was raised), she very much enjoyed a wine appreciation course. She then went to study culinary arts at CCA in San Francisco. She went to work in Houston at a fine wine distributor for five years. It was a wine dinner where she met David Tate. In 2010, she moved to Napa Valley.
David Tate’s credentials as a winemaker for 25 years are very strong: Ridge Vineyards, as an assistant winemaker; worked in Barossa Valley, Australia; Provence, France; Canterbury, New Zealand. He also has travelled to just about every fine wine region in the world. David graduated from Brock University in Enology and Viticulture with honors. David is originally from Vancouver, British Columbia. David currently is the winemaker at Barnett Vineyards, winning many outstanding awards for their wine.
Picture from Tate Wine website
In 2011 David and Suzanne formed TATE Wines. David as the artisan winemaker, Suzanne as the marketing and sales arm, one from Canada and one from Texas. Yet combined they make a synergistic and complementary team of two, ready to take on the world with their wines.
Currently they have seven wines to offer. Their 2022 St Helena Sauvignon Blanc, 2022 Spring Street Chardonnay, 2021 Jack’s Vineyard Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon, 2021 Spring Street Cabernet Sauvignon, Miss Gay Rose (from Grenache), 2021 Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon and 2019 Reason Vineyard Merlot. I must schedule a tasting as it has been a while since Suzanne visited Saddle Creek for a winemaker’s dinner.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Each micro vineyard which David has access to presents a unique and specific terroir which David extracts for optimum distinction. For example, for this 2014 Mt Veeder, he uses a single vineyard at 1400 feet elevation that was once an ancient seabed. This vineyard produces one of the lowest yields in Napa Valley. For those familiar with Mt Veeder, the top of the mountain is sunny and the first to receive the cooling climate or fog. David believes that this allows the grapes “to mature slowly producing dynamic flavors and deeper tannins”.
Opening this wine last evening was a truly a delightful experience and was such a great reminder of two great people in Napa Valley. On the eyes a brooding very dark reddish/blackish coloring. A classic from Mt Veeder with violet and earth notes on the nose. On the palate unmistakenly Mt Veeder with dark black cherries, tannins that caress rather than bite with a finish that was long lasting with plums concluding each sip. This wine still had a few years left with the fruit and acid in perfect balance.
Only 8 barrels were produced of this wine, and it comes in at 14.6% alcohol. Today’s vintage is the 2021 from Mt Veeder and is listed at $115.00. This wine will make my annual list of the Best Wines Tasted in 2024! That list comes out each December.
Sláinte,
Michael
2020 Middle Oak Wines Cabernet Franc – Music and Art Influencing the Wine
The Winery and Background
Photo from Middle Oak Wines Facebook
Christina Skinner is the owner of a small, woman-owned and family operated winery in Friendswood, Texas. Friendswood is located 23 miles southeast of Houston. Christina being a devoted artist (music and painting), had a dream to be involved with wine and the wine industry. After much studying, her dream came to life in the fall of 2021 with the introduction of her 2018 vintage “The Middle C”.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Her personal belief is that the arts and wines are intertwined disciplines. She sources her fruit from hand selected vineyards in Napa Valley, using organic, biodynamic and sustainable farming techniques producing beautiful fruit. Today, besides their Cabernet Franc, she produces Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache, Merlot, Red Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Christina keeps production small focusing on the high quality producing 200-300 cases a year.
Christina launched a wine club recently with a great reception. Her near-term goal is going to gradually increase her production and move to a larger more functional and versatile space for her tasting room. One of the things she is most grateful for is that every single wine produced has won at least one medal/award, every year!
Photo from Rudy Zuidema
Christina was fortunate to meet and work with Rudy Zuidema, a winemaking star in Napa Valley. You can read a previous story on Rudy at:
Rudy, a UC Davis graduate in viticultural, has worked as a head winemaker, vineyard manager and general manager in Napa. His experiences in winemaking include time at Cuvaison, Honig, Robert Craig, Ehlers Estate and other projects include Napa De Oro Winery, Red Cap Vineyards and his own label Zuidema Wines. Rudy is the winemaker for Middle Oak Wines.
Previously at the International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition Middle Oak Wines won various awards. For the 2023 Competition Category 5 ($101 and up) for California (based grapes), they won a Gold Medal and Best of Class from the People’s Choice Judges. In 2024, both sets of Judges gave them a Silver Medal.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Enjoyed this wine the other evening. This is Christina’s favorite wine that she produces. Her “Middle C” Cab Franc on the eyes is a lush dark ruby and purple coloring and is medium-full bodied viscosity. On the nose, black cherry is the predominate aroma that wafts into the senses followed by raspberry and herbal notes. On the palate, flavors of black cherry reign with hints of dark chocolate and a skosh of vanilla with a minimal number of pyrazines on the palate. The finish is simply remarkable, smooth with structured velvety tannins, yet soft and rounded to be noticed but not overwhelm your mouth. This wine sells for $115. They used only French oak, with 100% being new for 12 months then transferring it to neutral barrels for another 12 months. It is comprised of 92% Cabernet Franc and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Cuda Ridge Wines Carménère – A Unique Wine
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A Brief History of Carménère
The history of the Carménère varietal is as fascinating as it is happenstance! It was once one of the grapes in the Médoc region of Bordeaux. It served a similar purpose as Petit Verdot does today – producing a deep red ink on wines. It was one of the original six red grapes of Bordeaux. Carménère originates from the French word for crimson (carmin) which refers to the crimson color of the autumn foliage.
(Photo from Wikipedia)
When the Phylloxera plague hit in 1867 destroying most of the vineyards in Europe, many thought the Carménère grape was extinct. It wasn’t until 150 years later that it was discovered that Chile had preserved the Carménère grape thinking it was Merlot (from clippings planted from France). DNA confirmed that it was the missing 6th varietal of Bordeaux.
Carménère Today
Carménère grows mainly in Chile, specifically the Colchagua Valley, Rapel Valley and in the Maipo Province. It is also grown in the Veneto region of Italy, and recently several wineries in Mendocino, Livermore, Lodi, Napa and Calaveras are producing it, albeit in small quantities. Walla Walla also has some root stock growing in Carménère.
Uniqueness of Carménère
As a varietal, it has the deep ruby coloring and aromas of red fruits. Tannins are softer and milder than Cabernet Sauvignon, thus its use in blending to soften a strong Cabernet. The use is like the use of Merlot in formulating an enjoyable blend. Chile produces a 100% Carménère which has a cherry and fruity flavor but has traces of smoke and earthy notes with the inky coloration.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2019 Cuda Ridge Carménère wine lived up to and exceeded all the key characteristics of Carménère. On the eyes, a medium-heavy viscosity wine with a unique inviting deep purple coloration. On the nose, ripe Bing cherries greeted the senses. The palate is where this wine excelled. First the bright cherry taste was intense and concentrated. Plums and dark fruits then came forth with a hint of soft dry and wet earthen tones (minerality and forest floor) with black tea in the background. The earthen notes are generally found in Chilean Carménère but not found too often in California. The finish was long lasting with mocha and pepper finishing off the enjoyment. The wine is aged in French oak barrels (100%) for 18 months. This wine immediately after tasting made my “Best Wines” tasted in 2021 and again in 2024 (full list published in December).
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Larry Dino, owner and winemaker at Cuda Ridge Wines now has all six modern Bordeaux varietals available at the tasting room. The Carménère is the first locally produced wine varietal in the Livermore AVA. This second release is larger than the first year but will be flying out the door. Inquire at the winery for availability.
One of the solid and simple marketing ideas that Larry devised is his coloring scheme: White label for his Reserve wines, Black label for his non-Bordeaux wines and purple label for his Bordeaux varietals. Obviously Carménère falls in his purple label.
His Carménère will surely garner many awards in the upcoming wine competitions. The wine costs $50. Truly a good price point given the uniqueness and scarcity of Carménère plantings in California and the only current Livermore grown Carménère being offered.
Today’s vintage is the 2022 and he offers two versions of Carménère: Casa de Vinas and Insel Family Vineyard. He also offers the 2021 Little Dog Vineyard Carménère.
His awards for this delicious wine are as follows:
2020 Carménère Insel– Silver Medal, 2022 San Francisco Chronicle Competition
2020 Carménère Little Dog Vineyard – Wine Enthusiast, 92 points
2019 Carménère – Gold Medal, 2021 Orange County Fair
Sláinte,
Michael
2016 Palazzo Wine Cabernet Franc – Ultra Smooth and Silky
The Winery
Picture from Palazzo website
Scott Palazzo’s background is both unique and fascinating how he ended up being a winemaker. Scott grew up in an Italian family which influenced both his understanding of wine as an everyday event as well as with food and celebrations. At age 19, Scott set out with his guitar on his back and ended up in Europe. There he ended up in Saint Émilion (on the Right Bank of Bordeaux’s Gironde River). This became his wine paramount experience shaping his palate for years to come and the foundation for Palazzo Wine some 20+ years later. In 2003, after establishing a career as a television director/producer (nominated Grammy for Music Video & Television Director/Producer), he began searching for a similar terroir that he enjoyed while living in Saint Émilion.
Key to his success was his charismatic and energetic personality! Scott combined his experience with Old World wine in the cellar with New World fruit from lower Napa Valley rolling hills. Today his wines are featured by some of the wine world’s most famous restaurants. A small partial listing is French Laundry, Gary Danko, Michael Mina, Per, Daniel, Gramercy Tavern, Eleven Madison Park, Spago, Bouchon, Mastro’s Steakhouse, Emeril’s, Valintino’s, etc. The full list of restaurants can be found on his website, suffice to say, in any major city, find a prestigious restaurant and you will find Palazzo Wine!
Today Scott’s portfolio of wines includes his Master Blend Series (Left Bank Cuvee, Chardonnay, Rosé) and Reserve Wine Series (Cuvee Blanc, Right Bank Blend, Cabernet Franc).
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Scott started making his Cabernet Franc exclusively for The French Laundry in Yountville. This catapulted his wine instantly to “cult status”. The 2016 vintage is his current release of Cabernet Franc. On the eyes, this is a very deep crimson red color with medium-heavy viscosity. What wafts into the nose is a symphony of aromas from floral notes of crushed violets to red fruits like cherries and raspberries. Once entering the mouth all parts of the orchestrated flavors burst into a flavor profile like the 1812 Overture. Red and black cherries, subtle spices like pepper are counterbalanced with hints of dark chocolate. On the finish only a hint of pyrazines, this wine is vibrant, yet silky smooth beckoning one to take another sip. Structured and defined layers with silky smooth tannins are present. One of the smoothest finishes on a world class Cabernet Franc I have tasted. This wine has 14.1% alcohol. The current release is 2016 and priced at $115 and rated 96 points by Wine Advocate.
Sláinte,
Michael
2022 Vermilion Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir Rosé – A Delightful Surprise!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
Picture from Vermilion Valley Vineyards
Recently I have authored several stories on Vermilion Valley Vineyards and The Winerie at Sandusky (both labels are the same ownership and winemaker). The Vermilion Valley story was on how delicious their Pinot Noir and who knew that quality of Pinot Noir could be grown in Ohio.
The second story was on a wine seldom seen in California that many have never tasted, Lemberger wine.
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2024/03/10/the-winerie-at-sandusky-2021-lemberger-wine
Vermilion Valley Vineyards has one hundred planted acres in four different locations. With microclimates, this allows all his wines to be 100% estate grown. What is interesting about Ohio is that 370 wineries exist but only nine hundred acres of grapes are planted! Doing the simple math, removing the five largest vineyards in the state, you are left with each winery having a one-acre parcel! Thus, many wineries in Ohio rely on importing juice from various areas like the Central Valley of California and Washington. That is one of the unique characteristics of Vermilion Valley Vineyards and their estate wines.
Currently they produce the following red wines: Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Dorsa, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lemberger, Chambourcin, Dornfelder, Nebbiolo, Malbec, Pinotage, and Merlot. Ditto for their white wines producing: Muscat Ottonel, Riesling. Gruner Veltliner, Müller-Thurgau, Traminette, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Valvin Muscat, Ribola Gialla, Petit Manseng, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Albariño, Pinot Blanc and Arneis. That is a wide variety of wines and all estate grown!
You can read their webpage about their important level of sustainability incorporating land use and their buildings. Link at the bottom of the page
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
In full disclosure, any Rosé is not my go to type of wine. I don’t have any in my cellar and have never purchased a Rosé. So now I am writing about this one! Joe had sent me this bottle and I held off opening it as long as I could to taste it, and if good I would write about it. I now wasted a complete summer not enjoying this delicious wine!
First on the eyes a translucent and curious copper color and light viscosity. On nose strawberry was the dominant aroma. Now on the palate, this wine bursts forth with flavors of cantaloupe, brioche and nectarine. A light flavorful wine with more punch than expected in a Rosé. The finish was cool and refreshing, especially with the meal we enjoyed with it. A strong minerality and stone fruit completed the tasting experience and was very dry. It is 12% alcohol.
The wine lists for $18/bottle and for this robust flavor and taste I would buy a bottle! Joe may have moved me off my stance on Rosé wines!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this wine as I thought a lighter wine with the meal would work this evening. The dinner was chicken stir fry with some unique ingredients. The stir fry sauce used soy sauce, chicken broth, corn starch, honey, minced ginger, minced garlic, and Momofuku Chili Crunch. The stir fry portion with the chicken pieces also included broccoli, Ramon Noodles, and cashews. Topped off with sesame seeds for a tasty and spicy dish. The wine served chilled was perfect combating the heat of the food and added a soothing touch to the food as well as introducing fruit flavors. An excellent food and wine pairing.
Sláinte,
Michael
2022 Wood Family Vineyards “Against The Grain” Red Blend Aged in Bourbon Barrels
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The History of Using Bourbon Barrels For Wine
In the early 1980’s, American oak barrels where expensive for many start up wineries. By law bourbon barrels must be 100% American oak and can only be used one time to distill bourbon in the United States. So, after their use, many barrels became available for “other distilled spirits” and wineries to purchase at a fraction of the price of new French or new American oak barrels. So why doesn’t everyone purchase used bourbon barrels? Key is that whiskey barrels are produced differently than wine barrels. Whiskey barrels are charred on the inside verses wine barrels which are toasted. By only toasting wine barrels, the wine while aging develops many nuances of flavor. Bourbon barrel aged wines tend to be bold with ripe reds, vanilla, smoky and with muted tannins.
Picture from iStock https://www.istockphoto.com/
The use of bourbon barrel aging has taken off recently with more wineries using these barrels. Some view it as a trend to attract Millennials who buy whiskies. Others view it as a cross over from spirits to wine and yet the resulting wine is unique, smooth and provides an enjoyable sipping experience. This market is exploding due to the flavor profile not just with Millennials but with wine aficionados looking to enhance their experience. This is now an important wine segment statement by the Wine Industry Advisor. It is estimated that 20 million bottles of aged bourbon barrel wines are sold annually. Today 60 brands offer a Bourbon Barrel Aged red wine.
A Senior VP for Southeastern Grocers had this insight “customers who prefer bold wines tend to prefer this selection during the peak barbeque months of summer, and the cool months of winter”. Also riding the coat tails of the large increase of Bourbon sales due to the “alphabet generations” has help spur this upward trend in wine sales. Additionally, according to the Bourbon Women’s Association, their figures show it doubling from 15% thirty years ago to today and they too are discovering bourbon barrel aged wines.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Last evening tried the pre-released 2022 “Against The Grain” that uses the following varietals: 40% Cabernet Franc, 30% Petit Verdot, 25% Malbec and 5% Petite Sirah. Each year it is a different blend. All the components of the blend are aged in traditional wine barrels (30% new and mostly French oak) before blending and transferring to the bourbon barrels. The first year of Wood Family Vineyards production in 2016 was 43 cases. They have steadily increased production with the 2022 being 90 cases. This year Rhonda Wood could only secure4 “new/used” bourbon barrels to infuse her wine! This vintage was aged nine weeks in bourbon barrels.
When you use the four varietals above, here is a quick breakdown of each varietal contributions:
Cabernet Franc: Red fruit, dried fruit flavors, lower tannins, can have a green bell pepper flavor.
Petit Verdot: Blackberries, plums, blueberries, licorice, mocha, vanilla
Malbec: Jamy, coffee, leather, black peppers, vanilla, slight tobacco, smoky
Petite Sirah: Blackberry, plums, blueberries, earth elements, lots of tannins, dark coloring
Now add in the bourbon barrel influence and the totality of flavors combined provide an intriguing and full mouth filling of wonderment. This wine is like a philharmonic symphony with the emphasis on philharmonic meaning “love of harmony” as it is with this wine. The symphony is the culmination of each part playing a distinct role and flavor profile to make a “whole” experience. The sum is greater than the parts!
The wine on the eyes was a cavernous and dark purple color with medium heavy viscosity. On the nose, the aromas of bold blackberry and blueberries rose to the olfactory sense. On the palate, the aforementioned fruits along with leather, vanilla and a smoky quality dominate. On the finish almost hidden soft velvety tannins combined with vanilla from the wine and barrel provided a noticeable Bourbon quality without overpowering the wine with a slightly “sweet” conclusion.
This year’s wine comes in at 15% alcohol versus last year’s 15.8%. The previous vintage sold out early last year and this vintage will be released on the 27th of October at $45/bottle.
This wine has made my annual Best Wines Tasted during the year since the first production and will again this year.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The food pairing this evening was with a seared and BBQ’ed filet mignon to a radiant pink medium rare level. Served with Danish Blue Cheese sprinkled on top. Accompanied by twice baked Russet potatoes covered with cheddar cheese. Also prepared were sautéed asparagus and mushrooms. A side salad consisting of butter lettuce, green onions, sliced Castelvetrano olives topped with toasted almond slivers and Parmesan cheese.
A wonderful food and wine pairing that went extremely well together. Other pairings done with previous vintages include short ribs, ribeye steak jalapeño meatloaf and BBQ’ed burgers. I can’t think of any red meat dish not going well with this wine.
Sláinte,
Michael
Wine Tasting, A Warm Night, Chinese Food, 2023 Chardonnay and REUSACUBE
Went to a wine tasting of Morgan Wines in Angels Camp at The Cellar last evening. Tasted their Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and a modified GSM blend. Then decided since we were in the “Big City” (population 3,786) with a least a couple of choices of restaurants, went to Far East China restaurant. Ordered a combo fried rice, orange chicken and honey walnut prawns. Just had water with the meal as we needed to drive home so no wine pairing.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
Once home opened a bottle of one of our favorite Chardonnay wines, Wood Family Vineyards.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Since it was warm both in the house and outside, we opted to try some recently acquired REUSACUBE squares to keep the wine in the glass chilled. The full story was published earlier at:
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The REUSACUBE worked like a charm to chill the Chardonnay in the glass and we settled in for the evening with chilled Chardonnay, watched a little television and munched on left over Chinese food.
Sláinte,
Michael
2020 Iron Hub “Old Vine” Zinfandel
Background
Went to Iron Hub a couple of months back to purchase their “Clockspring Vineyard” Zinfandel and Chardonnay. While there we did a side by side tasting of their “Old Vine” and “Clockspring” Zinfandels. While I had already made a proclamation that Clockspring made my Best Wines tasted in the year, I was not expecting their “Old Vine” to be much of a match. Was I wrong! I came home with several bottles of “Old Vine” much to my liking and of course the Chardonnay.
The Winery
Photo from Iron Hub website
The winery was founded by Tom Jones from Lava Cap Winery fame in the Apple Hill area near Placerville. Tom completed his master’s degree in Viticulture & Enology from UC Davis, and for almost 30 years developed award-winning wines. Tom and his wife Beth’s new endeavor began in 2014 with the purchase of the 33-acre property that had been known as Amador Foothill Winery. Having control of the grapes from vineyard to bottle was key in his quest for quality control with 17 acres planted in vines.
The name of the winery came about from Tom’s mountain sojourns in the area. On an adventure he discovered an antique, hand-forged wagon wheel hub in a remote area. This small winery on Steiner Road drew a parallel with his goal of making small lot artisan wines like the craftsmanship of the “iron hub” he found on a walk. The beautiful new tasting room was opened in December 2017.
Photo from Iron Hub website
Spencer, their son, following in his father’s footsteps by also graduating from UC Davis with a master’s degree from the Department of Viticulture and Enology, is the winery’s Assistant winemaker. Today, they form a dynamic father-son winemaking team. Tom and Spencer enjoy and demand a hands-on approach to every aspect of the winemaking process, from tending the grapes in the estate vineyards to carefully crafting both red and white wines. They recently added 10 acres managing the Spanish Creek site they are leasing. Having now 27 acres of “estate property” to manage is keeping them very busy. Tom has stated that “Our estate affords me creative control from the vine to the bottle”
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine on eyes was like “Clockspring” but a shade or two darker and more mysterious. On the nose intense dark cherries and blackberries. On the palate, ripe juicy plums and soft pipe tobacco. On the finish the dominant flavor was vanilla counterbalanced by clove and vanilla notes. Layers and layers of spice and unexpected joy provide a lingering finish.
The “Old Vine” vintage includes 10% Barbera, 4% Mourvedre, 2% Grenache and 1% Syrah. It is listed at $38/bottle and comes in at 15.9% alcohol. It is aged 15 months in oak barrels. The grapes come from the nearby Oakmont Vineyard where the vines are 80 years of age.
So, without a doubt this Zinfandel from Iron Hub makes my annual Best Wines tasted during the year! That list comes out each December. This also means it is now a “stocked commodity” in the cellar.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this “Old Vine” Zinfandel to enjoy with a straightforward spaghetti dinner. The meal was a combination of marinara sauce being the base and all kinds of spices and ground beef added. Whole wheat spaghetti noodles were the pasta. Topped with fresh shredded mozzarella cheese. This Zinfandel with its acidity, tannins and spicy notes complemented the spaghetti and meat sauce. Zinfandel is a key match to a zesty tomato-based sauce. An excellent food and wine pairing this evening.
Sláinte,
Michael
2018 Smith-Madrone Vineyards Riesling – A Slice of Heaven on Spring Mountain
The Winery
Looking east across the upper Napa Valley Photo ©Michael Kelly
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The Founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate grown and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Annual production is between 3,000 to 4,000 cases a year. Currently they are producing Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc).
A quick background on Riesling shows it is the 20th most grown variety and in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the “top three” white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted worldwide” per Wikipedia. Riesling is adaptable to growing in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of citrus and peach notes for warm, apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.
In the California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush white wine harvest in 2023 was 1,709,270 tons. Riesling was only 34,057 tons, but it showed an increase of 6% outpacing Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Stuart on the left and Charlie on the right Photo ©Michael Kelly
While producing various wine varietals, they are known for their dry and exotic Riesling throughout the world! On this recent visit, I was given the opportunity to taste various previous vintages to access their aging ability. It was startling how well a solidly produced Riesling can endure having tasted 2003, 2010 and 2019 from Smith-Madrone.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2018 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apple on the nose. A light radiant golden yellow color and medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lime, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the lime citrus. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity is jovial and enticing with a semi-sweet crescendo. Very low residual sugar (.7%) and coming in at 13.3% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,611 cases. The current release is their 2019 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Chose this wine for this evening’s meal of seared Ahi tuna. Rubbed with soy sauce and patted on all sides with a combination of black & white sesame seed, black pepper, garlic salt and sugar. Then placed on the 1500-degree BBQ for one and a half minutes on each side including edges. Plated on an Asian chopped salad/cabbage with Asian dressing. Pineapple slices placed on top of salad and the cut slices of Ahi tuna placed on top. Drizzled with a homemade wasabi, ginger, honey and lemon sauce. Then garnished with slices of green onions and cilantro. This was an enjoyable food and wine pairing with the Riesling being crisp with sufficient acidity to complement the delicate flavors of the tuna.
This wine along with their 2019 both made my annual Best Tasted during the year 2024. That list comes out mid-December and represents about 2% of the wines tasted during the year.
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Aridus Wine Company Graciano
The Winery
First thing right up front is most don’t think of Arizona as a “winery state”! Turns out Arizona has over 120 wineries scattered throughout the state. Aridus is located in southeastern Arizona in Willcox, about 85 miles east of Tucson in Cochise County. The town of Willcox has 14 different tasting rooms!
(Picture from City of Willcox)
Scott and Joan Dahmer founded Aridus Wine Company in 2012, just outside the city of Willcox. The name Aridus, come from the Latin word meaning “dry or arid”, most appropriate for most people’s idea of Arizona.
(Tasting room in Willcox. Picture from Aridus Wine Company)
The winery/crush facility and tasting room are located in two different locations in Willcox. They also have another tasting room in Scottsdale on Main Street. Their yearly production is approximately 2,500 cases. They have an amazing lineup of different varietals available including: whites including Malvasia Bianca, Viognier, Chardonnay, Fume Blanc and Muscat. Reds include Merlot, Mourvèdre, Graciano, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Petite Verdot and Montepulciano, as well as several Rosés.
(Tasting room in Scottsdale. Picture from Aridus Wine Company)
The winemaker, Lisa Strid has produced wine for the last seven years at the winery. During this time, she has produced 183 wines from five different growing regions in Arizona, New Mexico and California. Since 2020, Aridus is now making wine exclusively from its estate vineyard.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Graciano is one of my favorite wines and is the third most popular grape behind Tempranillo and Granacha in Spain. Graciano typically has a very aromatic aroma and deep coloration. Often on the palate black peppery spice notes appear along with red fruits and noticeable herbaceous qualities. Another key trait is high acidity and strong tannins.
The Aridus Graciano on the eyes has a very deep and rich coloring. Predominately soft violet aromas waft into the nose. On the palate, peppery spices definitely appear with delight and flavoring along with blueberry notes. A beautiful and long finish.
The wine comes from Cochise County and comes in a 15.3% alcohol. Their website lists it at $65/bottle. Key recommendations for food pairings are red meat, charcuterie board snacks and cheese.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Friday night “Wine & Dine Group” met at Verona18 to enjoy another tasty meal. A special for the evening was a seared Alaskan Halibut with a Romesco sauce. While originally looking for a steak option, the fish looked interesting and decided to go with it. The Romesco sauce is an interesting story and asked for it on the side. The sauce is a tomato-based sauce that originated from Valls in Catalonia, Spain. The local fishermen made the sauce to be eaten with fish. It typically is made with a mix of roasted tomatoes, garlic, toasted almonds, pine nuts, olive oil and dried nyora peppers. The sauce was delicious and dipped every bite of the fish in it! Accompanied by sautéed vegetables and rice.
It may not have been the best food and wine pairing, but both were very good!
We also shared some other very solid wines during the evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.coppervalleygolf.com/homepage/current-operations
- ← Previous
- 1
- …
- 10
- 11