2022 Wood Family Vineyards “Against The Grain” Red Blend Aged in Bourbon Barrels
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The History of Using Bourbon Barrels For Wine
In the early 1980’s, American oak barrels where expensive for many start up wineries. By law bourbon barrels must be 100% American oak and can only be used one time to distill bourbon in the United States. So, after their use, many barrels became available for “other distilled spirits” and wineries to purchase at a fraction of the price of new French or new American oak barrels. So why doesn’t everyone purchase used bourbon barrels? Key is that whiskey barrels are produced differently than wine barrels. Whiskey barrels are charred on the inside verses wine barrels which are toasted. By only toasting wine barrels, the wine while aging develops many nuances of flavor. Bourbon barrel aged wines tend to be bold with ripe reds, vanilla, smoky and with muted tannins.
Picture from iStock https://www.istockphoto.com/
The use of bourbon barrel aging has taken off recently with more wineries using these barrels. Some view it as a trend to attract Millennials who buy whiskies. Others view it as a cross over from spirits to wine and yet the resulting wine is unique, smooth and provides an enjoyable sipping experience. This market is exploding due to the flavor profile not just with Millennials but with wine aficionados looking to enhance their experience. This is now an important wine segment statement by the Wine Industry Advisor. It is estimated that 20 million bottles of aged bourbon barrel wines are sold annually. Today 60 brands offer a Bourbon Barrel Aged red wine.
A Senior VP for Southeastern Grocers had this insight “customers who prefer bold wines tend to prefer this selection during the peak barbeque months of summer, and the cool months of winter”. Also riding the coat tails of the large increase of Bourbon sales due to the “alphabet generations” has help spur this upward trend in wine sales. Additionally, according to the Bourbon Women’s Association, their figures show it doubling from 15% thirty years ago to today and they too are discovering bourbon barrel aged wines.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Last evening tried the pre-released 2022 “Against The Grain” that uses the following varietals: 40% Cabernet Franc, 30% Petit Verdot, 25% Malbec and 5% Petite Sirah. Each year it is a different blend. All the components of the blend are aged in traditional wine barrels (30% new and mostly French oak) before blending and transferring to the bourbon barrels. The first year of Wood Family Vineyards production in 2016 was 43 cases. They have steadily increased production with the 2022 being 90 cases. This year Rhonda Wood could only secure4 “new/used” bourbon barrels to infuse her wine! This vintage was aged nine weeks in bourbon barrels.
When you use the four varietals above, here is a quick breakdown of each varietal contributions:
Cabernet Franc: Red fruit, dried fruit flavors, lower tannins, can have a green bell pepper flavor.
Petit Verdot: Blackberries, plums, blueberries, licorice, mocha, vanilla
Malbec: Jamy, coffee, leather, black peppers, vanilla, slight tobacco, smoky
Petite Sirah: Blackberry, plums, blueberries, earth elements, lots of tannins, dark coloring
Now add in the bourbon barrel influence and the totality of flavors combined provide an intriguing and full mouth filling of wonderment. This wine is like a philharmonic symphony with the emphasis on philharmonic meaning “love of harmony” as it is with this wine. The symphony is the culmination of each part playing a distinct role and flavor profile to make a “whole” experience. The sum is greater than the parts!
The wine on the eyes was a cavernous and dark purple color with medium heavy viscosity. On the nose, the aromas of bold blackberry and blueberries rose to the olfactory sense. On the palate, the aforementioned fruits along with leather, vanilla and a smoky quality dominate. On the finish almost hidden soft velvety tannins combined with vanilla from the wine and barrel provided a noticeable Bourbon quality without overpowering the wine with a slightly “sweet” conclusion.
This year’s wine comes in at 15% alcohol versus last year’s 15.8%. The previous vintage sold out early last year and this vintage will be released on the 27th of October at $45/bottle.
This wine has made my annual Best Wines Tasted during the year since the first production and will again this year.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The food pairing this evening was with a seared and BBQ’ed filet mignon to a radiant pink medium rare level. Served with Danish Blue Cheese sprinkled on top. Accompanied by twice baked Russet potatoes covered with cheddar cheese. Also prepared were sautéed asparagus and mushrooms. A side salad consisting of butter lettuce, green onions, sliced Castelvetrano olives topped with toasted almond slivers and Parmesan cheese.
A wonderful food and wine pairing that went extremely well together. Other pairings done with previous vintages include short ribs, ribeye steak jalapeño meatloaf and BBQ’ed burgers. I can’t think of any red meat dish not going well with this wine.
Sláinte,
Michael
September 29, 2024 at 11:15 pm
Beauty is in the mouth of the beholder but bourbon barrel wine was and is a horrible idea. It’s how you make bad wine for people who enjoy wine-like beverages but not wine. I understand the wine business is hard and sometimes, it’s all about the benjamins.