Two Carménère Wines: Cuda Ridge Livermore Valley and Spangler Vineyards Oregon

Posted on November 2, 2024

_{Photo ©Michael Kelly}

History of Carménère

The history of the Carménère varietal is as fascinating as it is happenstance! It was once one of the grapes in the Médoc region of Bordeaux, one of the original historical seven grapes of Bordeaux. It originally served a similar purpose as Petit Verdot, producing a deep red ink on wines. Carménère originates from the French word for crimson (carmin) which refers to the crimson color of the autumn foliage.

When the Phylloxera plague hit in 1867 destroying most of the vineyards in Europe, many thought the Carménère grape was extinct. It wasn’t until 150 years later that it was discovered that Chile had preserved the Carménère grape thinking it was Merlot (from clippings planted from France). DNA confirmed that it was the missing 6^th varietal of Bordeaux.

Carménère Today

Carménère grows mainly in Chile, specifically the Colchagua Valley, Rapel Valley and in the Maipo Province. It is also grown in the Veneto region of Italy, and recently several wineries in Mendocino, Livermore, Lodi, Napa and Calaveras are producing it, albeit in small quantities. The 2023 USDA Statistical Service showed only 78 acres planted of the 284,341 in the state of California or .00027%. Oregon and Washington also have some root stock growing inCarménère, but their summary of red wine grapes planted does not even breakout Carménère!

Uniqueness of Carménère

As a varietal, it has the deep ruby coloring and aromas of red fruits. Tannins are softer and milder than Cabernet Sauvignon, thus its use in blending to soften a strong Cabernet. The use is like the use of Merlot in formulating an enjoyable blend. Chile produces a 100% Carménère which has a cherry and fruity flavor but has traces of smoke and earthy notes with the inky coloration

The Background for this story

With its limited quantities being produced I am always interested in finding this wine to taste and how it is produced. Larry Dino, the owner and winemaker of Cuda Ridges Wines in Livermore produces two Carménère wines. Pat Spangler in Oregon produces one Carménère wine. Both wineries offer different vintages of each. So last night decided to compare and contrast the two.

_{Photo ©Michael Kelly}

Had both wines side by side last evening with a 24-hour tenderized and marinated flank steak. It was seared on the BBQ at 1500 degrees. The marinade included fresh cilantro leaves, olive oil, orange juice, lime juice, minced garlic, several minced jalapeno with seeds, ground cumin, black pepper and kosher salt. It was served with fresh lime wedges squeezed onto the meat. Accompanied by roasted Brussel sprouts, mashed potatoes with blue cheese and garlic French bread.

_{Photo ©Michael Kelly}

Cuda Ridge Wines 2022 Carménère is from the Casa de Vinas vineyard. This wine lived up to and exceeded most of the key characteristics of Carménère.  On the eyes, a medium-heavy viscosity wine with a unique inviting deep purple coloration. On the nose, ripe Bing cherries greeted the senses along with violet fragrance.  The palate is where this wine excelled. First the bright cherry taste was intense and concentrated. Plums and dark fruits then came forth with a hint of soft dry and with a tinge of earthen tones (minerality and forest floor) with black tea in the background. The earthen notes are generally found in Chilean Carménère but not found too often in California. The finish was long lasting with mocha and pepper finishing off the enjoyment with vanilla and soft tannins making it a round and enjoyable wine. It is 100% Carménère grapes and comes in at 13.5% alcohol. It was released in September and sells for $50/bottle. Only 49 cases were produced. Barrel treatment was 19 months in 50% new French oak and 50% in once used American oak. It has not been submitted yet into competitions.

_{Photo ©Michael Kelly}

Spangler Vineyards was a 2020 Carménère from southern Oregon vineyard called Crater View. The color was again a dark and enticing coloration. On the nose, aromas of cherry and mocha dominate. On the palate, this was a strong and bold Carménère more reminiscent of a Chilean Carménère. On the palate, this was gritty and bold demanding your attention to its pedigree. Key was a “wet forest floor” quality that was tantalizing and delicious. Red plum and green peppercorns, while different flavors, danced in rhythm in the mouth. At the conclusion a chewy and hearty wine, with leather and the concentrated fruits of plum and cherries provided a long finish. The tannins were structured and present and spicy. The wine sells for $39/bottle and comes in at 14.4% alcohol. Only 142 cases were produced. Barrel treatment was 18 months in 1/3 new, 1/3 one year old and 1/3 two-year-old. The barrels were 50% American and 50% French. This wine has won 95 points & Double Gold from Oregon Wine Award competition and 93 points from Cascadia International.

_{Photo ©Michael Kelly}

While trying simply to comprehend each on its own merits and uniqueness, both were truly appreciated at dinner with the meat. After dinner both were also enjoyed alone themselves. Cuda Ridge Carménère was a tad softer and milder with less tannins. Spangler Vineyards possessed less vanilla (in a conversation with Pat) and spicier with red roasted peppers and peppers and black ground pepper purposely and more like a Chilean Carménère. Cuda Ridge was more aromatic with violets wafting into the senses. The coloring was almost identical with Spangler having just a slightly lighter crimson ring in the glass.

Discerning wine aficionados will be happily content with both Carménère wines!

I know I definitely was enthralled by both, and they will make my annual Best Wines of the Year that were tasted in 2024. That list is reserved for 1-2% of the 1600 to 1800 wines tasted during the year.

Sláinte,

Michael

https://californiawinesandwineries.com

https://www.CudaRidgeWines.com

https://www.spanglervineyards.com/