wine-tasting
2022 Wood Family Vineyards “Against The Grain” Red Blend Aged in Bourbon Barrels
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The History of Using Bourbon Barrels For Wine
In the early 1980’s, American oak barrels where expensive for many start up wineries. By law bourbon barrels must be 100% American oak and can only be used one time to distill bourbon in the United States. So, after their use, many barrels became available for “other distilled spirits” and wineries to purchase at a fraction of the price of new French or new American oak barrels. So why doesn’t everyone purchase used bourbon barrels? Key is that whiskey barrels are produced differently than wine barrels. Whiskey barrels are charred on the inside verses wine barrels which are toasted. By only toasting wine barrels, the wine while aging develops many nuances of flavor. Bourbon barrel aged wines tend to be bold with ripe reds, vanilla, smoky and with muted tannins.
Picture from iStock https://www.istockphoto.com/
The use of bourbon barrel aging has taken off recently with more wineries using these barrels. Some view it as a trend to attract Millennials who buy whiskies. Others view it as a cross over from spirits to wine and yet the resulting wine is unique, smooth and provides an enjoyable sipping experience. This market is exploding due to the flavor profile not just with Millennials but with wine aficionados looking to enhance their experience. This is now an important wine segment statement by the Wine Industry Advisor. It is estimated that 20 million bottles of aged bourbon barrel wines are sold annually. Today 60 brands offer a Bourbon Barrel Aged red wine.
A Senior VP for Southeastern Grocers had this insight “customers who prefer bold wines tend to prefer this selection during the peak barbeque months of summer, and the cool months of winter”. Also riding the coat tails of the large increase of Bourbon sales due to the “alphabet generations” has help spur this upward trend in wine sales. Additionally, according to the Bourbon Women’s Association, their figures show it doubling from 15% thirty years ago to today and they too are discovering bourbon barrel aged wines.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Last evening tried the pre-released 2022 “Against The Grain” that uses the following varietals: 40% Cabernet Franc, 30% Petit Verdot, 25% Malbec and 5% Petite Sirah. Each year it is a different blend. All the components of the blend are aged in traditional wine barrels (30% new and mostly French oak) before blending and transferring to the bourbon barrels. The first year of Wood Family Vineyards production in 2016 was 43 cases. They have steadily increased production with the 2022 being 90 cases. This year Rhonda Wood could only secure4 “new/used” bourbon barrels to infuse her wine! This vintage was aged nine weeks in bourbon barrels.
When you use the four varietals above, here is a quick breakdown of each varietal contributions:
Cabernet Franc: Red fruit, dried fruit flavors, lower tannins, can have a green bell pepper flavor.
Petit Verdot: Blackberries, plums, blueberries, licorice, mocha, vanilla
Malbec: Jamy, coffee, leather, black peppers, vanilla, slight tobacco, smoky
Petite Sirah: Blackberry, plums, blueberries, earth elements, lots of tannins, dark coloring
Now add in the bourbon barrel influence and the totality of flavors combined provide an intriguing and full mouth filling of wonderment. This wine is like a philharmonic symphony with the emphasis on philharmonic meaning “love of harmony” as it is with this wine. The symphony is the culmination of each part playing a distinct role and flavor profile to make a “whole” experience. The sum is greater than the parts!
The wine on the eyes was a cavernous and dark purple color with medium heavy viscosity. On the nose, the aromas of bold blackberry and blueberries rose to the olfactory sense. On the palate, the aforementioned fruits along with leather, vanilla and a smoky quality dominate. On the finish almost hidden soft velvety tannins combined with vanilla from the wine and barrel provided a noticeable Bourbon quality without overpowering the wine with a slightly “sweet” conclusion.
This year’s wine comes in at 15% alcohol versus last year’s 15.8%. The previous vintage sold out early last year and this vintage will be released on the 27th of October at $45/bottle.
This wine has made my annual Best Wines Tasted during the year since the first production and will again this year.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The food pairing this evening was with a seared and BBQ’ed filet mignon to a radiant pink medium rare level. Served with Danish Blue Cheese sprinkled on top. Accompanied by twice baked Russet potatoes covered with cheddar cheese. Also prepared were sautéed asparagus and mushrooms. A side salad consisting of butter lettuce, green onions, sliced Castelvetrano olives topped with toasted almond slivers and Parmesan cheese.
A wonderful food and wine pairing that went extremely well together. Other pairings done with previous vintages include short ribs, ribeye steak jalapeño meatloaf and BBQ’ed burgers. I can’t think of any red meat dish not going well with this wine.
Sláinte,
Michael
Wine Tasting, A Warm Night, Chinese Food, 2023 Chardonnay and REUSACUBE
Went to a wine tasting of Morgan Wines in Angels Camp at The Cellar last evening. Tasted their Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and a modified GSM blend. Then decided since we were in the “Big City” (population 3,786) with a least a couple of choices of restaurants, went to Far East China restaurant. Ordered a combo fried rice, orange chicken and honey walnut prawns. Just had water with the meal as we needed to drive home so no wine pairing.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
Once home opened a bottle of one of our favorite Chardonnay wines, Wood Family Vineyards.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Since it was warm both in the house and outside, we opted to try some recently acquired REUSACUBE squares to keep the wine in the glass chilled. The full story was published earlier at:
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The REUSACUBE worked like a charm to chill the Chardonnay in the glass and we settled in for the evening with chilled Chardonnay, watched a little television and munched on left over Chinese food.
Sláinte,
Michael
2020 Iron Hub “Old Vine” Zinfandel
Background
Went to Iron Hub a couple of months back to purchase their “Clockspring Vineyard” Zinfandel and Chardonnay. While there we did a side by side tasting of their “Old Vine” and “Clockspring” Zinfandels. While I had already made a proclamation that Clockspring made my Best Wines tasted in the year, I was not expecting their “Old Vine” to be much of a match. Was I wrong! I came home with several bottles of “Old Vine” much to my liking and of course the Chardonnay.
The Winery
Photo from Iron Hub website
The winery was founded by Tom Jones from Lava Cap Winery fame in the Apple Hill area near Placerville. Tom completed his master’s degree in Viticulture & Enology from UC Davis, and for almost 30 years developed award-winning wines. Tom and his wife Beth’s new endeavor began in 2014 with the purchase of the 33-acre property that had been known as Amador Foothill Winery. Having control of the grapes from vineyard to bottle was key in his quest for quality control with 17 acres planted in vines.
The name of the winery came about from Tom’s mountain sojourns in the area. On an adventure he discovered an antique, hand-forged wagon wheel hub in a remote area. This small winery on Steiner Road drew a parallel with his goal of making small lot artisan wines like the craftsmanship of the “iron hub” he found on a walk. The beautiful new tasting room was opened in December 2017.
Photo from Iron Hub website
Spencer, their son, following in his father’s footsteps by also graduating from UC Davis with a master’s degree from the Department of Viticulture and Enology, is the winery’s Assistant winemaker. Today, they form a dynamic father-son winemaking team. Tom and Spencer enjoy and demand a hands-on approach to every aspect of the winemaking process, from tending the grapes in the estate vineyards to carefully crafting both red and white wines. They recently added 10 acres managing the Spanish Creek site they are leasing. Having now 27 acres of “estate property” to manage is keeping them very busy. Tom has stated that “Our estate affords me creative control from the vine to the bottle”
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine on eyes was like “Clockspring” but a shade or two darker and more mysterious. On the nose intense dark cherries and blackberries. On the palate, ripe juicy plums and soft pipe tobacco. On the finish the dominant flavor was vanilla counterbalanced by clove and vanilla notes. Layers and layers of spice and unexpected joy provide a lingering finish.
The “Old Vine” vintage includes 10% Barbera, 4% Mourvedre, 2% Grenache and 1% Syrah. It is listed at $38/bottle and comes in at 15.9% alcohol. It is aged 15 months in oak barrels. The grapes come from the nearby Oakmont Vineyard where the vines are 80 years of age.
So, without a doubt this Zinfandel from Iron Hub makes my annual Best Wines tasted during the year! That list comes out each December. This also means it is now a “stocked commodity” in the cellar.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this “Old Vine” Zinfandel to enjoy with a straightforward spaghetti dinner. The meal was a combination of marinara sauce being the base and all kinds of spices and ground beef added. Whole wheat spaghetti noodles were the pasta. Topped with fresh shredded mozzarella cheese. This Zinfandel with its acidity, tannins and spicy notes complemented the spaghetti and meat sauce. Zinfandel is a key match to a zesty tomato-based sauce. An excellent food and wine pairing this evening.
Sláinte,
Michael
2018 Smith-Madrone Vineyards Riesling – A Slice of Heaven on Spring Mountain
The Winery
Looking east across the upper Napa Valley Photo ©Michael Kelly
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The Founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate grown and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Annual production is between 3,000 to 4,000 cases a year. Currently they are producing Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc).
A quick background on Riesling shows it is the 20th most grown variety and in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the “top three” white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted worldwide” per Wikipedia. Riesling is adaptable to growing in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of citrus and peach notes for warm, apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.
In the California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush white wine harvest in 2023 was 1,709,270 tons. Riesling was only 34,057 tons, but it showed an increase of 6% outpacing Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Stuart on the left and Charlie on the right Photo ©Michael Kelly
While producing various wine varietals, they are known for their dry and exotic Riesling throughout the world! On this recent visit, I was given the opportunity to taste various previous vintages to access their aging ability. It was startling how well a solidly produced Riesling can endure having tasted 2003, 2010 and 2019 from Smith-Madrone.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2018 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apple on the nose. A light radiant golden yellow color and medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lime, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the lime citrus. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity is jovial and enticing with a semi-sweet crescendo. Very low residual sugar (.7%) and coming in at 13.3% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,611 cases. The current release is their 2019 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Chose this wine for this evening’s meal of seared Ahi tuna. Rubbed with soy sauce and patted on all sides with a combination of black & white sesame seed, black pepper, garlic salt and sugar. Then placed on the 1500-degree BBQ for one and a half minutes on each side including edges. Plated on an Asian chopped salad/cabbage with Asian dressing. Pineapple slices placed on top of salad and the cut slices of Ahi tuna placed on top. Drizzled with a homemade wasabi, ginger, honey and lemon sauce. Then garnished with slices of green onions and cilantro. This was an enjoyable food and wine pairing with the Riesling being crisp with sufficient acidity to complement the delicate flavors of the tuna.
This wine along with their 2019 both made my annual Best Tasted during the year 2024. That list comes out mid-December and represents about 2% of the wines tasted during the year.
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling – A Classic Riesling
The Winery
(Photo taken by Matthew Denny)
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The Founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker and the associate winemaker is François Bugué. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They are producing Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc).
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A quick background on Riesling shows it is the 20th most grown variety and in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the “top three” white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted world wide” per Wikipedia. Riesling is adaptable to grow in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of citrus and peach notes for warm, apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.
In the California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush white wine harvest in 2023 was 1,709,270 tons. Riesling was only 34,057 tons, but it showed an increase of 6% outpacing Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
The 2019 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apple on the nose. A more golden yellow color than previous vintage with medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lemon zest, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the lime citrus. A modicum of beeswax making it extremely mouth filling. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity is jovial and enticing with a semi-sweet crescendo. Very low residual sugar (.7%) and coming in at 13.3% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,087 cases. The current release is their 2019 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Duck, Pork, Bacon, Chicken, Shrimp, and Crab are suggested foods for Riesling. Chose this wine to pair with one of my favorite dishes, Chicken Pad Thai. However with my wife still recovering, this is the first time I prepared it. The Smith-Madrone 2019 Estate Riesling was pulled from the cellar for last night’s meal due to the spiciness of the dish called Chicken Pad Thai. Last evening went with a much more flavorful and spicy recipe. The ingredients were fresh angel hair noodles, virgin olive oil, minced garlic, cooked chicken, eggs, bean sprouts, sliced red bell pepper, green onions, peanuts, chopped cilantro and lime juice. The Pad Thai sauce included fish sauce, soy sauce, brown sugar, rice vinegar, Sriracha and creamy peanut butter! The Riesling’s semi-sweet finish was spot on for this meal.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Limes were plated to squeeze the juice over the top of the dish. Accompaning the meal was a fresh garden salad and steamed broccoli. The meal packed a punch of flavor and warmth! The 2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling was a godsend. The wine was refreshing and quenched the palate.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
The meal was fixed for friends joining us for dinner and one bringing the salad and the other bringing the broccoli. Beyond the dinner we enjoyed talking and sipping some other wonderful wines during and after the dinner for hours.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
The 2018 Smith-Madrone Riesling had made the Best Wines tasted in 2023 and the 2019 will also make my Best Wines tasted in 2024!
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Aridus Wine Company Graciano
The Winery
First thing right up front is most don’t think of Arizona as a “winery state”! Turns out Arizona has over 120 wineries scattered throughout the state. Aridus is located in southeastern Arizona in Willcox, about 85 miles east of Tucson in Cochise County. The town of Willcox has 14 different tasting rooms!
(Picture from City of Willcox)
Scott and Joan Dahmer founded Aridus Wine Company in 2012, just outside the city of Willcox. The name Aridus, come from the Latin word meaning “dry or arid”, most appropriate for most people’s idea of Arizona.
(Tasting room in Willcox. Picture from Aridus Wine Company)
The winery/crush facility and tasting room are located in two different locations in Willcox. They also have another tasting room in Scottsdale on Main Street. Their yearly production is approximately 2,500 cases. They have an amazing lineup of different varietals available including: whites including Malvasia Bianca, Viognier, Chardonnay, Fume Blanc and Muscat. Reds include Merlot, Mourvèdre, Graciano, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo, Petite Verdot and Montepulciano, as well as several Rosés.
(Tasting room in Scottsdale. Picture from Aridus Wine Company)
The winemaker, Lisa Strid has produced wine for the last seven years at the winery. During this time, she has produced 183 wines from five different growing regions in Arizona, New Mexico and California. Since 2020, Aridus is now making wine exclusively from its estate vineyard.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Graciano is one of my favorite wines and is the third most popular grape behind Tempranillo and Granacha in Spain. Graciano typically has a very aromatic aroma and deep coloration. Often on the palate black peppery spice notes appear along with red fruits and noticeable herbaceous qualities. Another key trait is high acidity and strong tannins.
The Aridus Graciano on the eyes has a very deep and rich coloring. Predominately soft violet aromas waft into the nose. On the palate, peppery spices definitely appear with delight and flavoring along with blueberry notes. A beautiful and long finish.
The wine comes from Cochise County and comes in a 15.3% alcohol. Their website lists it at $65/bottle. Key recommendations for food pairings are red meat, charcuterie board snacks and cheese.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Friday night “Wine & Dine Group” met at Verona18 to enjoy another tasty meal. A special for the evening was a seared Alaskan Halibut with a Romesco sauce. While originally looking for a steak option, the fish looked interesting and decided to go with it. The Romesco sauce is an interesting story and asked for it on the side. The sauce is a tomato-based sauce that originated from Valls in Catalonia, Spain. The local fishermen made the sauce to be eaten with fish. It typically is made with a mix of roasted tomatoes, garlic, toasted almonds, pine nuts, olive oil and dried nyora peppers. The sauce was delicious and dipped every bite of the fish in it! Accompanied by sautéed vegetables and rice.
It may not have been the best food and wine pairing, but both were very good!
We also shared some other very solid wines during the evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
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