tempranillo
A Very Special 1998 Dehesa 14 La Granja and Carne Asada
Background
Purchased a couple of bottles years ago (2013) and have been “resting them” since in the cellar. It was already past optimum time to open, so wanted to enjoy one of them tonight with a specially prepared carne asada steak presentation.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
What makes this wine “special” is that Dehesa 14 spends an exorbitant amount of time maturing. First aged in oak barrels for 24 months and a minimum of 14 years in the bottle resting in the stone caves of the winery before being released. The wine is stored in hand hewed solid rock cave carved from 1750 to 1767. The wine being classified as a Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León unshackles the D.O. rules of the area. Having the freedom to age a total of 16 years (two in barrel & fourteen in bottle) allows them to release at its peak complexity.
First on the eyes a deep ruby almost black color with full body. On the nose, dark cherry with ripe plum were dominant. A hint of espresso and black licorice. On the palate, eucalyptus, dark fruits and oak tannins with structure being noted. On the finish, a lush mouth feel coupled with oak and aged leather. The overall tasting experience with this aged wine provides complexity beyond compare! Tobacco, vanilla, coffee, dates and black cherries all come into play as tertiary aromas and flavors.
The 1998 Dehesa 14 comes from 100% Tempranillo grapes from Zamora, Castilla y León Spain and crafted by Alejandro Fernández. Today they no longer age it 14 years in bottle before release and have gone to 10 years, still a special wine. The original price for 1998 at release was $75. Other labels of the Familia Fernández Rivera group of wines retail up to $225/bottle.
It is easy to state this would be on my annual Best Wines of 2026.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dinner with this wine was a special Carne Asada. The flank steak was tenderized and marinated 12 hours with the following ingredients: olive oil, soy sauce, fresh squeezed orange and lime juice, fresh chopped cilantro leaves, minced jalapeño peppers with seeds, minced garlic cloves, ground cumin, Kosher salt, ground black pepper. Mesquite seasoning was then added to steak and seared on the BBQ with an infrared ceramic burner at 1500 degrees for about 8 minutes a side. Served with minced cilantro, fresh extra marinade sauce and a modicum of fresh squeezed lime juice and topped with cilantro. Accompanying the meal was toasted Mexican Street corn recipe using butter, kosher salt, mayonnaise, lime juice, chili powder, cilantro and topped with Cotija cheese. A fresh garden salad with bacon was also served.
The Carne Asada was flavorful and served medium rare with the extra sauce topping off the meat.
The Winery
The winery is on an 800-hectare estate along the Guareña River in Zamora, Castilla-León.
Alejandro Fernández (1932-2021) known as the King of Tempranillo and helped put the Ribera del Duero region as one of the best regions for wine in the world. His legacy continues through the Familia Fernández Rivera, a large wine, hospitality and agricultural projects. Tinto Pesquera (Ribera del Duero) was founded in 1972 inside a 16th century stone press is considered by most the flagship estate. The focus is 100% Tempranillo (Tinta del País). Robert Parker praised the Tinto Pesquera Janus as the “Petrus of Spain”.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Another winery, established in 1994 near the Duero River features single-estate Tempranillo vineyards. Lastly, Dehesa La Granja (Zamora) acquired in 1998 in the Castilla y León producing their age worthy red wines and produce in the area such as cheese, chickpeas and EVOO.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
2016 Vatan Tinta de Toro – Christopher Columbus Ship Named La Pinta Brought Tinta de Toro to the New World in 1492!
Brief History of Tempranillo
photo credit of almost black Tempranillo grapes on the vine in Toro, Spain by Fabio Ingrosso
The name Tempranillo comes from the Spanish word temprano (meaning early), a reference to the fact that it ripens several weeks earlier than most other Spanish red grapes. That said most Tempranillo’s exhibit a big blackberry, leathery and a slight smoky aroma – an earthiness character.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Wines from Toro, located in Northwest Spain and their noted Tempranillo wines, are especially known for coloration and boldness. The literal translation is “dark bull” – meaning this Tempranillo is not for the faint of heart! Tinta de Toro translates as “ink of Toro” or “bull’s ink” referring to its dark and brooding color. Toro is also an ancient wine-making town and region in Zamora, Spain.
Reproducción de la Carabela “La Pinta” en el Muelle de las Carabelas del Paraje de La Rábida, en Palos de la Frontera.
The Tinta de Toro Spanish grape dates to the 2nd century B.C. It was the drink chosen for Christopher Columbus’ trip to India when he discovered America. A fun fact is that so much wine was stored for the voyage in 1492, one of the ships was name “La Pinta” (pint) because the cellars of ship were full of this dark beautiful wine.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
For the 2016 Vatan Tinta de Toro, a large portion of the grapes come from a vineyard planted in 1943 with some coming from their renown 1910 vineyard. After fermentation the wine is aged in new French oak barrels for 22 months. What comes out on the other side is a mouthful of wonderment! The 2016 vintage also came out at 15.5% alcohol adding to the robustness of this vintage. The 2016 vintage is hard to find and if found goes for around $50/bottle. The current vintage is 2023 and has scored 95 points.
Antonio Galloni stated it best in his review stating it is a “Dark purple. Fresh black and blue fruits, pipe tobacco and candied violet on the highly perfumed, smoke-accented nose. Fleshy, seamless and broad in the mouth, offering intense blueberry and cherry-vanilla flavors and an exotic touch of Indian spices. The spicy quality carries strongly through the finish, which clings with excellent tenacity and smooth, building tannins.”
Most California and other Tempranillo wines do not come close to this intensity. If you are looking for a “different big red wine” without the stark tannins, pick up a bottle of Tinta de Toro for a big, bold, exotic yet integrated wine.
Vatan Tinta de Toro has been a fixture for years in the cellar and has made my annual Best Wines Tasted list for many years. This 2016 will be on the 2026 list coming out in December.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Picked this wine tonight to enjoy with a creative Stuffed Pepper Casserole my wife created. The casserole ingredients included EVOO, chopped white onion, chopped jalapeño pepper, chopped garlic cloves, ground sausage and beef, black beans, roasted tomatoes, corn kernels, chili powder, dried oregano, ground cumin, brown rice and different colored bell peppers. All this was combined with the meat and rice. She first browned the meat and then added the ingredients with a layer of meat/rice then shredded Cheddar cheese, then another layer of meat/rice and topped with cheddar cheese in a casserole dish to be baked.
The wine was chosen with its balanced structure and moderate tannins that harmonized with the savory meat and rice.
An excellent food and wine pairing!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
2012 Beronia Gran Reserva Rioja
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine used 93% Tempranillo, 4% Graciano and 3% Mazuelo grapes. Unique to this winery is the use of French oak barrels for 28 months and to complete the aging process leaves it in the bottle for another 36 months before release! The wine comes in at 14.5% alcohol. Their recommendation is to drink before 2033. Decided to open it about mid-point in its maturity and it was very good.
First on the eyes a deep radiant red almost blackish coloring. On the nose ripe plums and an earthiness note. On the palate, this Rioja shines with dark fruits of figs and plums, slight tobacco and a modicum of blueberries and walnut flavors. While enjoying each sip, the structure and tannin are layered and mature. The finish is long, offering complexity and balance at the same time.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this wine for dinner with baked chicken cheese enchiladas. Ingredients included cream cheese, sour cream, fresh salsa, Cheddar cheese, yellow corn, cumin, dried oregano, cayenne, salt & pepper, sliced scallions and 8-inch flour tortillas. Accompanied by yellow corn (same used inside the tortillas). The dinner was another wonderful wintertime comfort food. The food pairing with the wine was extremely good with each morsel of food being enveloped with the Rioja wine.
Sláinte,
Michael