A Very Special 1998 Dehesa 14 La Granja and Carne Asada
Background
Purchased a couple of bottles years ago (2013) and have been “resting them” since in the cellar. It was already past optimum time to open, so wanted to enjoy one of them tonight with a specially prepared carne asada steak presentation.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
What makes this wine “special” is that Dehesa 14 spends an exorbitant amount of time maturing. First aged in oak barrels for 24 months and a minimum of 14 years in the bottle resting in the stone caves of the winery before being released. The wine is stored in hand hewed solid rock cave carved from 1750 to 1767. The wine being classified as a Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León unshackles the D.O. rules of the area. Having the freedom to age a total of 16 years (two in barrel & fourteen in bottle) allows them to release at its peak complexity.
First on the eyes a deep ruby almost black color with full body. On the nose, dark cherry with ripe plum were dominant. A hint of espresso and black licorice. On the palate, eucalyptus, dark fruits and oak tannins with structure being noted. On the finish, a lush mouth feel coupled with oak and aged leather. The overall tasting experience with this aged wine provides complexity beyond compare! Tobacco, vanilla, coffee, dates and black cherries all come into play as tertiary aromas and flavors.
The 1998 Dehesa 14 comes from 100% Tempranillo grapes from Zamora, Castilla y León Spain and crafted by Alejandro Fernández. Today they no longer age it 14 years in bottle before release and have gone to 10 years, still a special wine. The original price for 1998 at release was $75. Other labels of the Familia Fernández Rivera group of wines retail up to $225/bottle.
It is easy to state this would be on my annual Best Wines of 2026.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dinner with this wine was a special Carne Asada. The flank steak was tenderized and marinated 12 hours with the following ingredients: olive oil, soy sauce, fresh squeezed orange and lime juice, fresh chopped cilantro leaves, minced jalapeño peppers with seeds, minced garlic cloves, ground cumin, Kosher salt, ground black pepper. Mesquite seasoning was then added to steak and seared on the BBQ with an infrared ceramic burner at 1500 degrees for about 8 minutes a side. Served with minced cilantro, fresh extra marinade sauce and a modicum of fresh squeezed lime juice and topped with cilantro. Accompanying the meal was toasted Mexican Street corn recipe using butter, kosher salt, mayonnaise, lime juice, chili powder, cilantro and topped with Cotija cheese. A fresh garden salad with bacon was also served.
The Carne Asada was flavorful and served medium rare with the extra sauce topping off the meat.
The Winery
The winery is on an 800-hectare estate along the Guareña River in Zamora, Castilla-León.
Alejandro Fernández (1932-2021) known as the King of Tempranillo and helped put the Ribera del Duero region as one of the best regions for wine in the world. His legacy continues through the Familia Fernández Rivera, a large wine, hospitality and agricultural projects. Tinto Pesquera (Ribera del Duero) was founded in 1972 inside a 16th century stone press is considered by most the flagship estate. The focus is 100% Tempranillo (Tinta del País). Robert Parker praised the Tinto Pesquera Janus as the “Petrus of Spain”.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Another winery, established in 1994 near the Duero River features single-estate Tempranillo vineyards. Lastly, Dehesa La Granja (Zamora) acquired in 1998 in the Castilla y León producing their age worthy red wines and produce in the area such as cheese, chickpeas and EVOO.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com