rioja
2011 Campo Viejo Rioja Gran Reserva
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background on Rioja Wines
The gold lace/netting originated in 1858 called malla. It was developed as an anti-counterfeiting and fraud device. In the mid-19th century, Camilo Hurtado de Amézaga (the Marqués de Riscal) after a stint in Bordeaux learning winemaking returned home with his newfound knowledge. Key was the use of oak barrel aging at his winery in Elciego. This rocketed the quality of Rioja wines. They became wildly successful winning awards from around the world and the Spanish royalty. His newfound success drew fraudsters and counterfeiters who would buy empty Marqués de Riscal bottles, fill them with inexpensive table wine, re-cork them and sell as authentic bottles of wine.
The gold wiring/mesh was invented in 1858 by the Marqués having it tightly wound the bottle, making it impossible to remove the cork or open the wine without cutting the wiring/mesh. This “tamper resistant” approached allowed those getting the wine was genuine.
To protect his brand’s reputation, the Marqués invented gold wire netting in 1858. The wire was woven so tightly around the bottle that it was impossible to remove the cork or open the wine without permanently cutting the mesh. This provided consumers with a tamper-evident seal, ensuring the wine inside was genuine. This then became the symbol of award-winning wines from Marqués de Riscal and easy to identify them. Other producers adopted this successful “cage” technique, and it became synonymous with high end Rioja wines. Today it is just a reminder honoring their heritage and aesthetic classic packaging.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Rioja wines are dark, mature and luscious in a unique fashion. First on the eyes this is a dark brooding wine in the glass. Aromas waft up to the senses of plum, smoky tobacco and dark cherries. On the palate the wine is complex with striking flavors of ripe plums, dark cherries, with a smokiness following closely behind. On the finish, a hint of soft vanilla and mellow silky tannins finish off each sip.
The wine came in at 13.5% alcohol. Gran Reserva Rioja wines must age for a minimum of five years with at least two years in the bottle.
This wine was appropriately aged in the cellar and enjoy this evening as a 2011.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The meal this evening was baked chicken cheese enchiladas. The prep work was done in advance and ready to bake as we wanted to watch the 49’er football game. The ingredients include sour cream, salsa, cheddar cheese, shredded chicken cooked in salsa, corn kernels, cumin, dried oregano, cayenne pepper, kosher salt, black pepper and thinly sliced scallions. The ingredients were wrapped in whole wheat low carb tortillas and then baked. Served with additional salsa on top.
This Rioja wine worked well with the chicken enchiladas with it lively fruit and acidity matching up with the tomato and chili sauce and spices. Without a heavy oak influence the wine cut through the cheese.
A great food and wine pairing this evening.
The Winery in Rioja, Spain
Map from Wine Tourism Spain https://winetourismspain.com/wine-regions/rioja/rioja-wine-map/
From the map you can see the location of Rioja in the northeastern Spain.
Previously, I wrote about Campo Viejo Rioja Gran Reserva having to age minimally two years in the barrel and five years being released. The Camp Viejo winery was built in 2001 and everything from the beginning was constructed on the principles of sustainability from their enology to their architecture. Below is picture of their winery.
There is not much on their website mentioning the winemaker, acreage, etc. One thing that they do mention is wanting the public to come and visit their operation.
Making such delicious wines for them does not require details on a website, just for you to enjoy each sip of this layered and structure wine.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
Spain through the Glass by GIL Family Estates at Vinum55 in Scottsdale
Slide from GIL Family Estates
Tonight’s presentation was by Ian Giza, Western Regional Sales Director for GIL Family Estates. This was a highly anticipated event as Spanish wines, in my opinion, are underrated and a tremendous bargain. Spanish wines over the years have represented the second or third most wines in my cellar by country. A map was presented of the various locations of vineyards and areas around Spain for a greater understanding. Also noted is which varieties are dominant in an area. Spain is the 4th largest country in Europe and is roughly the same size as California and Nevada combined.
Slide from GIL Family Estates
Classification of Spanish wines are broken down into four distinct classifications:
*Joven-young wines with little or no oak
*Crianza-aged for at least two years with a minimum of six months in oak and mostly twelve
*Reserva-Aged for at least three years, with at least one year in oak
*Gran Reserva-Aged for at least five years, with two or more years in oak.
The evening started out with a greeting of NV Bodegas Tridente Cantagrillos Sparkling Brut that was refreshing and enjoyable, a pleasant welcoming pour especially when coming inside from 112 degree weather!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next was a full introduction of Spain and the various regions, and the history of GIL Family, being now over 100 years old and managed by their 4th generation family.
Slide from GIL Family Estates
Their agricultural practices and care/concern for the land are extraordinary as outlined in this slide.
Slide from GIL Family Estates
We jumped right into the first pour. It was a 2025 Lagar da Condesa O Fillo da Condesa Albariño Rias Baixas. It was especially clear, crisp and bright in the glass and one of the better Albariño’s tasted in some time. This area in the northwest portion of Spain is known for producing some of the best Albariño’s in the world.
I had just recently tasted two Albariño’s, one that won Best of Show White Wine at 2026 SF Chronicle Wine Competition. The other won Double Gold at the Orange County Fair Commercial Wine Competition and awarded 98 points! The wineries being Las Positas Vineyards and Cellar13 are both from Livermore, California. Tonight this wine was equally delicious! This wine and three others received my highest scores of the evening, a rare occurrence with 4 out of 7 wines being rated this high. The other three missed the mark by a half point, still an excellent rating.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Up next was the 2024 Bodega Atalya La Bien Plata Garnacha Almansa. Again, having enjoyed Garnacha from this area for some time, it also was phenomenal. Grown at 3200 feet elevation from plantings that are 90 years old.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We moved on to the 2022 Cellars Can Blau Red Blend Montsant which appearing in the glass could be classified light and almost semi-translucent with a radiant purple coloring. However, this is far from reality as it came through as strong and spicy with the Cariñena and Syrah helping to punch up this blend. This was one of the best scores given this evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Not only was this wine a blend of Garnacha, Cariñena and Syrah it is also a blend of three soil types, with two very different soils shown in the slide.
Slide from GIL Family Estates
The region of Jumilla in the southeastern portion of Spain has been a favorite for the last twenty years. When I first saw the geography of the region, I was shocked that anything could grow on it. Not only does it allow vines to grow, but the wine also produced is exquisite.
Slide from GIL Family Estates
Served this evening was the 2023 Juan Gil 110th year Anniversary Monastrell Jumilla. First on the nose, dark fruits of blackberries and blueberries fill the olfactory senses. On the palate, smooth and silky tannins allow the wine to glide down joyously with every sip. Mild spices are noted on the finish. This area is a high-altitude vineyard in Jumilla and rocky terrain. This wine was a standout winner for us again with the highest rating. I left the meeting ordering several bottles of this wine!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The next two wines also rated extremely well. The first one was the 2022 Bodegas Rosario Vera Tempranillo Rioja. Considering it’s meek price point of around $20/bottle, this was a wine consumer’s best friend this evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A special wine was served at the conclusion of the evening from 150-year-old vines. It was the 2021 Bodegas Tridente Rejon Tempranillo Castilla y Leon. Dark and brooding in the glass only began to describe this wine! 100% Tempranillo from pre-phylloxera vines in Castilla y Leon Spain due to the soil conditions. This vineyard was planted in 1898. Dark fruit of blackberries and plum abounded on the nose and palate. Oak and minerality were present at the finish. Key was the complexity and layers on each delightful sip. The wine comes in at 16% alcohol. It also received the highest marks for the evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Four wines hit all the high marks for this tasting for color on the eyes, aromatic notes on the nose, tasting for authenticity of place and a delightful finish. Those wines were: 2025 Lagar da Condesa O Fillo da Condesa Albariño, 2022 Cellars Can Blau Red Blend Montsant, the 2023 Juan Gil 110th Year Anniversary Monastrell Jumilla and the 2021 Bodegas Tridente Rejon Tempranillo Castilla y Leon.
Ian Giza did an outstanding job preparing and presenting these lovely wines from Spain. A special thank you to both Ian and Vinum55 for having this informative presentation and the opportunity to taste a wide range of wines showcasing not only GIL Family Estates but also Spain.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
2020 Viña Alberdi Rioja Reserva by La Rioja Alta
Photo from La Rioja Alta
Background
Having just moved to Arizona and all our wines in several storage lockers in Scottsdale, ventured to the local Total Wines to browse and pick up a few bottles of wine until the wine refrigerators were delivered to the house. Picked up several different and unusual wines. This wine, which I was familiar with, is from La Rioja Alta Winery.
The Winery
The winery is in the northern and eastern portion of Spain, not too far from France. The elevation of the winery is between 1500 to 1800 feet. The 100% Tempranillo grapes were from the vineyards of Rodezno and Alto del Rey in Labastida. The vineyards are located on clay-limestone soils and were planted 40 years ago.
The winery is based in Haro, La Rioja and was founded in 1890. La Rioja Alta makes several other premier wines such as their Gran Reserva being 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano. Another Gran Reserva adds a small amount of Mazuelo. Another wine produced by them is Viña Ardanza which is lighter and blended with Graciano and Mazuelo. The winery currently has 425 hectares of vineyards or about 1,050 acres.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2020 Viña Alberdi Rioja Reserva by La Rioja Alta is an exceptional, 100% Tempranillo wine. The wine was on the lighter side but more than robust enough to whisk one back to Spain.
On the eyes a deep garnet coloring, bright and clean, with medium heavy viscosity. On the nose luscious red fruits of strawberry and raspberry arise to greet the imbiber. On the palate, for such a young Rioja, complexity and layers of enjoyment, with both a smokiness and hint of vanilla, typically found in older versions. Secondary flavors of cedar and cinnamon abound. The finish was mid-length with a subtle and reserve sweetness, with silky and mellow tannins.
The wine was aged two years on American oak barrels. This wine came in at 14% alcohol and from memory was around $21/bottle. A very good bargain for a Rioja of character.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This evening we had a Spanish chicken breast seasoned with garlic, brown sugar, chipotle pepper, onion and sea salt. This provided a tasty treat this evening. Accompanied by baby asparagus, small red seasoned and roasted potatoes and garlic French bread. While still eating with our folding table and chairs awaiting new dining room furniture to arrive, a most enjoyable meal.
One of the few pairings we have tried with red wine with chicken, yet it paired wonderfully.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2012 Beronia Gran Reserva Rioja
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine used 93% Tempranillo, 4% Graciano and 3% Mazuelo grapes. Unique to this winery is the use of French oak barrels for 28 months and to complete the aging process leaves it in the bottle for another 36 months before release! The wine comes in at 14.5% alcohol. Their recommendation is to drink before 2033. Decided to open it about mid-point in its maturity and it was very good.
First on the eyes a deep radiant red almost blackish coloring. On the nose ripe plums and an earthiness note. On the palate, this Rioja shines with dark fruits of figs and plums, slight tobacco and a modicum of blueberries and walnut flavors. While enjoying each sip, the structure and tannin are layered and mature. The finish is long, offering complexity and balance at the same time.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this wine for dinner with baked chicken cheese enchiladas. Ingredients included cream cheese, sour cream, fresh salsa, Cheddar cheese, yellow corn, cumin, dried oregano, cayenne, salt & pepper, sliced scallions and 8-inch flour tortillas. Accompanied by yellow corn (same used inside the tortillas). The dinner was another wonderful wintertime comfort food. The food pairing with the wine was extremely good with each morsel of food being enveloped with the Rioja wine.
Sláinte,
Michael