Smith-Madrone Vineyards A Beautifully Dry Riesling
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The winery was founded in 1971 by Stuart Smith. Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet.
Left to Right: Charles, Stuart and François Photo ©Michael Kelly
The founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker, and the associate winemaker is François Bugué All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They produce Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc).
Very few wineries of the 1,000+ I have visited have exemplary wines across their offering; Smith-Madrone Vineyards is an exception with tremendous quality of each varietal. For reference click:
Cabernet Franc Story
Cabernet Sauvignon Story
Chardonnay Story
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A quick background on Riesling. It is the 20th most grown variety and in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the top three white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted worldwide” per Wikipedia. Riesling is adaptable to growing in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of citrus and peach notes for warm, apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.
In the California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush Final Report white wine harvest in 2025 was 1,324,464 tons. Riesling was only 27,857 tons, essentially down a small amount from 2024 of 29,348 tons. In 2025 the only two significant white wine increases were Albariño and Sauvignon Blanc.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2019 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apples on the nose. A deeper golden yellow color than previous vintage with medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lemon zest, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the lime citrus. A modicum of beeswax makes it extremely mouth filling. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity is jovial and enticing with a semi-sweet crescendo. Very low residual sugar (.7%) and coming in at 13.3% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,087 cases. The current release is their 2021 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Duck, Pork, Bacon, Chicken, Shrimp, and Crab are suggested foods for Riesling. Chose this wine to pair with one of my favorite dishes, Chicken Pad Thai. The Smith-Madrone 2019 Estate Riesling was pulled from cellar for last night’s meal due to spiciness of the dish Chicken Pad Thai or at least the way we prepare it! Last evening went with a much more flavorful and spicier recipe. The ingredients were fresh whole wheat noodles, virgin olive oil, minced garlic, cooked chicken, eggs, bean sprouts, sliced red bell pepper, green onions, peanuts and lime juice. The Pad Thai sauce included fish sauce, soy sauce, brown sugar, rice vinegar, Siracha and creamy peanut butter! The Riesling’s being dry with a tinge of semi-sweet finish was spot on for this meal.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Limes were plated to squeeze the juice over the top of the dish as well as ground peanuts and green onion slices. The meal was packed with a punch of flavor and warmth! The 2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling was a godsend. The wine was refreshing and quenched the palate.
The 2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling has made the Best Wines tasted in 2023, 2024 and 2025 and 2019 will also make my Best Wines tasted in 2026! We stock the Smith-Madrone Riesling specifically for this food pairing, plus a few others.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly