Smith-Madrone Vineyards
Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler Estate Dry Riesling – A New Wine for me!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
While traveling during the holiday season visiting family, my wife prepared a meal of Pad Thai for the family. While in California my favorite and go to wine for this dish is Smith-Madrone Riesling from Spring Mountain. However, I did not find one in Arizona, so I picked up this bottle at a local wine store chain and was very impressed.
The Winery
Photo from Dr Heidemanns-Bergweiler Winery
The Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler Estate has approximately 30 acres of Riesling vineyards in the steeply sloped Middle-Mosel area. More than 75% of their vineyards are marked as “Steillage” (German for steep slope or incline). The vineyard soils are mostly Devon slate residual soils with varying parts of topsoil and mineral stone. The slate gives the wines a delicate and cool minerality which is typical for a Moselle Riesling. The combination of cool climate, slate and Riesling makes their wines unique.
They currently produce Pinot Noir, Dornfelder, Ice-wine, Sparkling and a variety of Rieslings ranging from dry to sweet. Most of their wines scored in the low to mid-90’s from Wine Enthusiast and others, all being noted for complexity and depth.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This dry Riesling from Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler has a refreshing and intense aromas of Jasimine that exudes significant power. The taste is marked by a distinctive acidity. It is dry and possesses mango and guava flavors with a tinge of citrus, notably lime. Medium viscosity packing a lively punch. The finish provides earthy stoniness and slate-like hints.
Generally found around $20/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Duck, Pork, Bacon, Chicken, Shrimp, and Crab are suggested foods for Riesling. Chose this wine to pair with one of my favorite dishes, Chicken Pad Thai. The Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler Riesling was purchased for this meal due to spiciness of the Chicken Pad Thai or at least the way we prepare it! Last evening went with a much more flavorful and spicier recipe. The ingredients were fresh whole wheat noodles, virgin olive oil, minced garlic, cooked chicken, eggs, bean sprouts, sliced red bell pepper, green onions, peanuts and lime juice. The Pad Thai sauce included fish sauce, soy sauce, brown sugar, rice vinegar, Momofuku Chili Crunch and creamy peanut butter! The Riesling being very dry was spot on for this meal.
Limes were plated to squeeze the juice over the top of the dish as well as ground peanuts, cilantro and green onion slices. Accompanying the meal was a fresh garden salad. The meal was packed with a punch of flavor and warmth! The 2024 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler pinched hit perfectly for the meal. The wine was refreshing and quenched the palate.
The 2024 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler Riesling just made the Best Wines tasted in 2026 (mid-Dec 2025 to mid-Dec 2026) in the under $50/category. I would like to taste their single vineyard Riesling’s in the future.
Sláinte,
Michael
2021 Smith-Madrone Vineyards Riesling – Perfection of a Varietal
Photo from Wikipedia & Lamborghini
This picture of a Lamborghini Revuelto may seem a bit off to start a wine story, yet the quality, elegance, craftmanship and rarity of this car is tantamount to the 2021 Smith-Madrone Riesling. And as a bonus the wine cost $40/bottle as opposed to a starting cost of $612,858!
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A quick background on Riesling shows it is the 20th most grown variety and in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the “top three” white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted worldwide” per Wikipedia. Riesling is adaptable to grow in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of citrus and peach notes for warm, apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
In the California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush white wine harvest in 2024 was 1,401,048 tons. The top four wines by tonnage were Chardonnay, French Colombard, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc representing 80% of the harvest tonnage. Riesling did not show up as a separate category in 2024! Why? Perhaps it is the “bum rap” that Riesling wines are “sweet”? This is the furthest from the truth with Smith-Madrone with residual sugar coming in at .021%.
The 2021 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apple on the nose. The aromatics were so intense they hit the olfactory senses after the cork was popped, and I was carrying the bottle to the table! A deeper golden yellow color than previous vintages with medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lemon zest, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the secondary flavors of lime citrus. A modicum of beeswax making it extremely mouth filling can be found. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity is counterbalanced with the delicious fruit bounty. Coming in at 13.2% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,258 cases. The current release is their 2021 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This vintage will make my annual Best Wines Tasted during the calendar year. This list is reserved for approximately 2-3% of the roughly 1800 wines tasted annually. It should be noted that Smith-Madrone Riesling has made this list for the last five years with various vintages!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Duck, Pork, Bacon, Chicken, Shrimp, and Crab are suggested foods for Riesling. Previously the 2019 vintage of Riesling was paired with one of my favorite dishes, chicken Pad Thai. This evening the dish was lemon garlic and shrimp pasta. It was prepared with fettuccine pasta and jumbo shrimp. Ingredients included olive oil, unsalted butter, minced garlic, Himalayan sea salt, black pepper, dried oregano, baby spinach, Parmesan cheese, chopped parsley and lemon juice. The meal was accompanied by a fresh Cesar salad.
Rather than add typical red chili flakes, substituted Flatiron Pepper Company Calabrian Chile Pepper.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Calabrian chile peppers are from Calabria, Italy and are vibrant and spicy. Known for being moderately spicy and yet bright and with a fruit undertone. Calabrian chiles are often preserved in oil which tends to mellow out their heat a bit, adding a noted “kick” without overwhelming the dish. This was the first time using this sample packet with seafood and now I am convinced of the value of these flavorful chile flakes. These Chile flakes come from New Mexico and are spelled with an “e”!
Riesling, especially a dry one, is excellent with light and just slightly spicy pasta. The wine with its acidity and fruit, both complement and counterbalance the natural sweetness of the shrimp and cut through the butter and garlic. The acidity in the Riesling brightens the meal and refreshes the palate. The fruit notes (lemon, lime, stone fruits) enhance the flavors of the shrimp. The fruits also provided a refreshing and noted contrast with the red pepper flakes.
This was an excellent food and wine pairing this evening!
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Smith-Madrone Vineyards are located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet.
On the left Stuart and Charles on the right Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker, and the associate winemaker is François Bugué. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They produce Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc).
Sláinte,
Michael
2021 Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Franc – An Immediate Winner!
Background
Photo ©Michael Kelly
At the 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition, Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery entered their first ever Cabernet Franc. It was placed in the $71-$85 category for California Cabernet Franc wines. Two different sets of judges rated their wine. From the disciplined Professional Judges they received a Gold Medal. From the People’s Judges they received both a Gold Medal and Best of Category for their price range. An excellent result from their first release of Cabernet Franc!
Stuart on the left and Charlie on the right Photo ©Michael Kelly
I had the privilege of meeting with Stu and Charlie Smith in August of 2024. An encounter which is paramount in my wine experiences. For the full story on the meeting and topics discussed you can read more at: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2024/08/14/smith-madrone-vineyards-paradise-found/ . It was at this meeting that I mentioned the upcoming 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition and they were very interested in entering their first vintage.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker, and the associate winemaker is François Bugué. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They produce Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) and a recently released Cabernet Franc.
Their wealth of knowledge about winemaking, Napa Valley varieties, Napa Valley politics (which there are plenty), and the history of Napa Valley is astonishing. I can only compare it to me with a paint by numbers canvas talking to Michelangelo when he was painting the Sistine Chapel. While both being very knowledgeable, they were matter of fact humbly quiet and with a great sense of humor!
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A quick background on Cabernet Franc in Napa Valley. Per the USDA California Errata to the Grape Crush Report Crop Year 2024 (dated August 25, 2025), Napa Valley crushed 3,682 tons of Cabernet Sauvignon. A small pittance compared to the 78,562 tons of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes crushed. In California as a whole Cabernet Franc represented only .003% of the grapes crushed for 2024. Whereas Cabernet Sauvignon represented 15.5%. Many do not understand the resurgence of Cabernet Franc commanding an average price of $5,206/per ton vs Cabernet Sauvignon’s average price of $2,186/per ton. Cabernet Franc, while small in comparison to tonnage crushed, its price is more than double that of Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Sauvignon may be King of the varieties, but maybe Cabernet Franc should be the one wearing the crown!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2021 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Franc comes from their vineyards that have been “pruned, cultivated and harvested in the same manner, creating wines of distinction and complexity” per Stuart. The wine is 89% Cabernet Franc and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon coming in at 14.7% alcohol. The wine spent 18 months in 60% new French oak barrels slumbering to perfection!
This Cabernet Franc on the eyes is dark and intriguing beckoning the imbiber to come closer and partake of a sip. On the nose, aromas of violets and pepper are dominant wafting into the senses. On the palate, medium weight and creamy (not taste), but a texturally sensation in the mouth. Black cherries are the primary and first flavor that springs forth. Secondary flavors of smooth blueberries surround the palate with joyous “chanting”. On the finish, green fruit is not noticeably (pyrazine characteristics) but silky smooth and caressing tannins catch your attention for a tasty conclusion to each sip.
Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced only 153 cases compared to their world famous dry Riesling of 1,087 cases. The current release of 2021 will not be available long and listed on their website for $85/bottle.
On my previous visit to Smith-Madrone I was able to taste it prior to being released. Now having more than a taste, this wine will now make my Annual Best Wines Tasted in the calendar year. This now gives Smith-Madrone two for 2025.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Chose this wine specifically to pair with a seared (1500 degrees) and BBQ’ed ribeye steak to medium rare. Accompanied by a Yukon potato and sauteed Brussel sprouts with mushrooms slices. An excellent treat with the wine and steak being paired beautifully this evening.
I can hardly wait to taste their second vintage of Cabernet Franc!
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Smith-Madrone Vineyards Riesling – Tremendous Minerality and Dry
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker, and the associate winemaker is François Bugué. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They produce Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) and a recently released Cabernet Franc.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A quick background on Riesling. It is the 20th most grown variety and in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the top three white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted worldwide” per Wikipedia. Riesling is adaptable to growing in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of citrus and peach notes for warm, apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.
In the final California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush white wine grape harvest in 2024 was 1,417,993 tons. Riesling was only 29,341 tons accounting for only 2% of the grapes crushed!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2019 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apples on the nose. A more golden yellow color than the previous vintage with medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lemon zest, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the lime citrus. A modicum of beeswax makes it extremely mouth filling. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity are jovial and enticing with a semi-sweet crescendo. Very low residual sugar (.7%) and coming in at 13.3% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,087 cases. The current release is their 2019 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired with three dishes of Chinese food: honey walnut prawns, combination fried rice and lemon chicken. The prawns and chicken had a sweet character and the Riesling being dry provided a beautiful contrast for this meal.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2018 Smith-Madrone Riesling had made the Best Wines tasted in 2023 and the 2019 made my Best Wines tasted in 2024 and again will in 2025. We stock this wine specifically for certain food and wine pairings.
Sláinte,
Michael