Napa Valley Cabernet Franc
2021 Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Franc – An Immediate Winner!
Background
Photo ©Michael Kelly
At the 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition, Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery entered their first ever Cabernet Franc. It was placed in the $71-$85 category for California Cabernet Franc wines. Two different sets of judges rated their wine. From the disciplined Professional Judges they received a Gold Medal. From the People’s Judges they received both a Gold Medal and Best of Category for their price range. An excellent result from their first release of Cabernet Franc!
Stuart on the left and Charlie on the right Photo ©Michael Kelly
I had the privilege of meeting with Stu and Charlie Smith in August of 2024. An encounter which is paramount in my wine experiences. For the full story on the meeting and topics discussed you can read more at: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2024/08/14/smith-madrone-vineyards-paradise-found/ . It was at this meeting that I mentioned the upcoming 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition and they were very interested in entering their first vintage.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker, and the associate winemaker is François Bugué. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They produce Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) and a recently released Cabernet Franc.
Their wealth of knowledge about winemaking, Napa Valley varieties, Napa Valley politics (which there are plenty), and the history of Napa Valley is astonishing. I can only compare it to me with a paint by numbers canvas talking to Michelangelo when he was painting the Sistine Chapel. While both being very knowledgeable, they were matter of fact humbly quiet and with a great sense of humor!
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A quick background on Cabernet Franc in Napa Valley. Per the USDA California Errata to the Grape Crush Report Crop Year 2024 (dated August 25, 2025), Napa Valley crushed 3,682 tons of Cabernet Sauvignon. A small pittance compared to the 78,562 tons of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes crushed. In California as a whole Cabernet Franc represented only .003% of the grapes crushed for 2024. Whereas Cabernet Sauvignon represented 15.5%. Many do not understand the resurgence of Cabernet Franc commanding an average price of $5,206/per ton vs Cabernet Sauvignon’s average price of $2,186/per ton. Cabernet Franc, while small in comparison to tonnage crushed, its price is more than double that of Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Sauvignon may be King of the varieties, but maybe Cabernet Franc should be the one wearing the crown!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2021 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Franc comes from their vineyards that have been “pruned, cultivated and harvested in the same manner, creating wines of distinction and complexity” per Stuart. The wine is 89% Cabernet Franc and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon coming in at 14.7% alcohol. The wine spent 18 months in 60% new French oak barrels slumbering to perfection!
This Cabernet Franc on the eyes is dark and intriguing beckoning the imbiber to come closer and partake of a sip. On the nose, aromas of violets and pepper are dominant wafting into the senses. On the palate, medium weight and creamy (not taste), but a texturally sensation in the mouth. Black cherries are the primary and first flavor that springs forth. Secondary flavors of smooth blueberries surround the palate with joyous “chanting”. On the finish, green fruit is not noticeably (pyrazine characteristics) but silky smooth and caressing tannins catch your attention for a tasty conclusion to each sip.
Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced only 153 cases compared to their world famous dry Riesling of 1,087 cases. The current release of 2021 will not be available long and listed on their website for $85/bottle.
On my previous visit to Smith-Madrone I was able to taste it prior to being released. Now having more than a taste, this wine will now make my Annual Best Wines Tasted in the calendar year. This now gives Smith-Madrone two for 2025.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Chose this wine specifically to pair with a seared (1500 degrees) and BBQ’ed ribeye steak to medium rare. Accompanied by a Yukon potato and sauteed Brussel sprouts with mushrooms slices. An excellent treat with the wine and steak being paired beautifully this evening.
I can hardly wait to taste their second vintage of Cabernet Franc!
Sláinte,
Michael
2018 Palazzo Wines Cabernet Franc Reserve – An Excellent Treat!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Scott Palazzo has entered the International Cabernet Franc Competition for several years. Over the years he has won consistently Gold and Double Gold for his Cabernet Franc. The most current competition he did not enter due to previous smoke damage to the vineyards. We enjoyed last evening his 2018 and it was a treat to taste this exquisite wine.
The Winery
Picture from Palazzo website
Scott Palazzo’s background is both unique and fascinating how he ended up being a winemaker. Scott grew up in an Italian family which influenced both his understanding of wine as an everyday event as well as with food and celebrations. At age 19, Scott set out with his guitar on his back and ended up in Europe. There he ended up in Saint Émilion (on the Right Bank of Bordeaux’s Gironde River). This became his wine paramount experience shaping his palate for years to come and the foundation for Palazzo Wine some 20+ years later. In 2003, after establishing a career as a television director/producer (nominated Grammy for Music Video & Television Director/Producer), he began searching for a similar terroir that he enjoyed while living in Saint Émilion.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Key to his success was his charismatic and energetic personality! Scott combined his experience with Old World wine in the cellar with New World fruit from lower Napa Valley rolling hills. Today his wines are featured by some of the world’s most famous wine restaurants. A small partial listing is French Laundry, Gary Danko, Michael Mina, Per, Daniel, Gramercy Tavern, Eleven Madison Park, Spago, Bouchon, Mastro’s Steakhouse, Emeril’s, Valintino’s, etc. The full list of restaurants can be found on his website, suffice to say, in any major city, find a prestigious restaurant and you will find Palazzo Wine!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Today Scott’s portfolio of wines includes his Master Blend Series (Left Bank Cuvee, Chardonnay, Rosé) and Reserve Wine Series (Cuvee Blanc, Right Bank Blend, Cabernet Franc).
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Scott started making his Cabernet Franc exclusively for The French Laundry in Yountville. This catapulted his wine instantly to “cult status”. This story is on his 2018 vintage of Cabernet Franc. On the eyes, this is a very deep red color with medium-heavy viscosity. What wafts into the nose is a symphony of aromas from floral notes of crushed violets to red fruits like cherries and raspberries. Once entering the mouth all the individual parts burst into a taste profile like the 1812 Overture music with triumphant notes. Red and black cherries, subtle spices like pepper are counterbalanced with hints of dark chocolate and ripe plum. On the finish only a hint of pyrazines (herbal notes), this wine is vibrant, yet silky smooth beckoning one to take another sip. Structured and defined layers with silky smooth tannins and yet with defined edges are present. One of the smoothest finishes on a world class Cabernet Franc I have tasted.
This wine is 14.1% alcohol and 2018 was rated 94 points by Jeb Dunnuck and won the Sommeliers Choice Awards Gold Medal in 2022. It spent 14 months in 30% new French oak and 70% neutral French oak.
The current release is 2016 Cabernet Franc and is priced around $115 and rated 96 points by Wine Advocate. It received from the American Wine Society Wine Competition a Gold Medal and “Best Cabernet Franc” and from the International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition a Double Gold Medal.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2015 Barnett Vineyards Cabernet Franc – One of Pedigree and Silkiness
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
At the top of Spring Mountain AVA, at 2600-foot elevation is Barnett Vineyards. The trek up the switchback road to the peak is worth the adventure. Upon reaching Barnett Vineyards, you are greeted with a breathtaking view looking back towards Howell Mtn. The Valley floor is the area between Calistoga and St Helena. Unfortunately, the day this picture was taken it was a bit overcast, but on their website you will find a few beautiful sunny photos. As you can see the terrain is very sloped (30 degrees and more)!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A quick background on the owners, Fiona and Hall Barnett. They bought the 40-acre property in 1983 and established Cabernet as their initial varietal. In 2007 they hired David Tate as Winemaker and General Manager.
Photo Barnett Vineyards website
For those who do not know David, he is a very “solid contributor” to the wine industry at large and has had a phenomenal impact on Barnett Vineyards. David has produced wine in Australia, France, New Zealand and now Napa Valley. His influence from vineyards to wine making has shown well with their 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Rattlesnake Hill receiving a 98+ points from Robert Parker. It is truly a 98–100-point wine with its dark concentrated mountain fruit and layering of structure and beautiful tannins. He believes it “will last 18-20 years”. This wine goes for $250/bottle and is extremely delicious! It is on the exclusive members release only.
The Cabernet Franc rivals some of the best in the Valley with its dark purple color with hints of floral and dark chocolate. In my opinion these two are the premier wines at Barnett Vineyards. Current release is the 2022 vintages and unfortunately are member exclusives!
They also produce Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay (2), Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon (2).
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
After dinner last evening we went to sit on the patio deck enjoying the sunset. Pulled this 2015 Barnett Vineyards Cabernet Franc out of the cellar as a special treat as we have enjoyed it since its release. The 2015 Cabernet Franc has a deep purple coloration and has a medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose aromas of dark lush fruit along with floral notes waft into the imbiber’s senses. Once into the mouth, a beautiful roundness with velvety mouthfeel is immediately noticed. On the palate, tastes of dark fruits and berries are dominant. Secondary flavors of chocolate and spices follow. On the finish overwhelming concludes with velvety softness yet with mountain fruit acidity and tannins of comfort and roundness. The 6% of Merlot most likely was key in the mellower aspects of the gestalt of the wine. A long and embracing finish with this Cabernet Franc.
It will make my annual Best Wines Tasted for 2025! This wine is one of the top 15 Cabernet Franc’s coming out of Napa Valley. The current release is 2022 and goes for $110/bottle and is a club release only.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
I usually pair food with wine, but as mentioned this was enjoyed as an after dinner drink. Could not think of a better way to watch the sunset.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly, Founder of the Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition
A Crocker & Starr Evening with two wines – 2019 Casili 12 and 2013 “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wines – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
As stated in title, two wines were chosen this evening for the meal.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
*The First Wine – 2019 Crocker & Starr Casili 12. This wine is a blend of 85% Malbec and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. While having various years of Casili vintages, each year the blend and percentages change. I wanted one with more Malbec percentage to go with the meat this evening. This bottle was placed in the “Eve” decanter by Riedel. This wine on the eyes was deep violet in coloring and even notes of the violet flower wafted into the senses. On the palate blueberries, black cherries were dominate, with mild oak lurking in the background. On the finish a modicum of dark chocolate and vanilla pipe tobacco, counterbalanced by minerality, and a slightly typical smoky element found in the better Malbec wines. This was exactly the flavors needed this evening. The wine came in at 14.4% alcohol. Wine Advocated rated it 94 points. The vintage currently being released is the Casili 15 and lists at $98/per bottle.
*The Second Wine – 2013 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
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Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was enjoyed after dinner while enjoying the warm summer weather on the patio. This was another solid choice as “Stone Place” is one of the premiere wines at Crocker & Starr. On the eyes a dense purple coloring filled the glass. On the nose rice and powerful blackberry wafted from the glass. On the palate, a lush and full-bodied fruit of blackberry and black cherry coated the mouth with “happiness”. On the finish a slight minerality and silky-smooth tannins as they seemed to be on siesta, present but not sharp (personal preference). This did make for a great sipping wine without food and came in at 14.4% alcohol. Wine Advocate rated the wine at 95 points and stated it should drink well for 20-25 years. My assessment is that it should be consumed this year or next as it is getting to its peak. The current release for the “Stone Place” is the 2021 and is listed at $195/bottle by Wine Enthusiast.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Our eldest daughter and husband were in town for dinner Friday night from Arizona. Prepared one of our favorite dishes, Carne Asada. Marinate a flank steak for 24 hours in a delicious sauce. The marinade consisted of cilantro, olive oil, reduced soy sauce, fresh squeezed orange juice, fresh squeezed lime, minced garlic, Serrano peppers, cumin, kosher salt and black pepper. All the ingredients were placed in a blender and then placed in a freezer bag with the steak. Additional marinate was kept separate to drizzle on the medium rare steak slices with fresh cilantro sprinkled and fresh limes squeezed when plated.
Accompanied by Mexican Pasta Salad made with corkscrew pasta, black beans, cherry tomatoes, diced jalapeños, fresh cilantro, yellow corn and cut green onions. The dressing consisted of extra-virgin olive oil, fresh squeezed lime juice, red wine vinegar, minced garlic, sea salt and black pepper. Both recipes were new and tasted exceptionally well and topped off with fresh cilantro. Accompanied by Italian herbedFrench bread. The wine provided bold fruits and enough tannins to engulf the beef spicy notes.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
For dessert, a freshly baked pineapple upside down cake from scratch with the juice added to mix, provided a very moist cake and delicious finish to the evening. The local store had no maraschino cherries!
The Winery
Photo from 2 years ago ©Michael Kelly
Pam Starr is simply a Rock Star. I believe she is one of the elite top 10 winemakers in Napa, but she is also much more than this. Knowing Pam Starr and following her exquisite wines for years, just about all would agree! Her technical pedigree comes from UC Davis in Fermentation Science. She started as an intern at Sonoma Cutrer, Edna Valley Vineyard, then six years at Carmenet Winery and then winemaker for Spottswoode Vineyard. In 1997 she and Charlie Crocker established Crocker & Starr.
Photo from Crocker & Starr website
Charlie Crocker comes from one of California’s oldest families, with his grandfather who was involved in the Central Pacific railroad in the mid 1800’s. His family heritage was a force in California’s development. Charlie also was involved in high tech and ran several companies very successfully. He has always had a keen interest in wine. Charlie in 1971 purchased the Dowdell property in St Helena. Today 85 of the 100 acres are planted in the classical Bordeaux grapes. On their website a detailed chronology is provided and makes a very good read.
The blending of these two personalities as a partnership is as smooth as their wine — seamless and magnificent.
What I enjoy most in getting to know Pam, is her genuineness and friendliness. You can stop by and see her in the vineyards, driving a forklift, punching down tubs of grapes, just about anything and everything. She is immersed in the business of “perfection”. Yet she has time, to sit down and talk, provide a bowl of water for your dogs, and even converse about mundane “non-wine issues”. She is above all else, extremely real and kind. Why wouldn’t you like her wine?
Her enthusiasm spills over into her craft of winemaking skills. I am speaking as a customer and wine club member from this perspective. Since meeting Pam, some twenty years ago, her wines started out at a 10 (scale of 1-10) and have remained at this quality the entire time! No easy feat with droughts, fire and wild temperature swings.
Let’s talk about the wines she produces. First, and why I sought Crocker & Starr initially years ago, was her Cabernet Franc. Each year they produce one of the most consistently solid and best Cabernet Francs in the Valley. The wine always shows a deep purple, with concentrates of black raspberries and tobacco. As some Cab Francs can be “strong”, Crocker & Starr‘s are strong in texture, but surprisingly soft and velvety to drink. They have enough balance of structure, tannin and acid to last 10-15 years without fail.
Today they produce a few Cabernet Sauvignon (RLC, Stone Place, One Post), Cabernet Franc and Casali (blend of Cabernet Franc & Malbec). Also, their white Sauvignon Blanc is superb. One newer addition is Brut Rosé. All her red wines and white wines have consistently made my annual list of “Best Wines Tasted” during the year for the last 15 years! See the links to these reviews:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2019/12/28/2011-crocker-starr-stone-place-cabernet-sauvignon/
One of their taglines is “Touch the Vines, Taste the Wines”. When visiting the winery, immersion into the vineyard is a prerequisite. In 2021 Cyrus Hazzard joined the Crocker & Starr team as a Partner & President to continue their esteemed tradition.
Slainte,
Michael Kelly