Napa Valley Wines
2010 Trespass Vineyard Escapade Continues to Impress
The Winery
Photo from Trespass website
Trespass Vineyard is in St Helena at the base of Spring Mountain and owned by Don and Dana Gallagher. They have meticulously worked on their 5-acre vineyard to produce some of the most exquisite wines. Well known winemaker Kirk Venge, along with Don & Dana Gallagher, collaborate in the winemaking process Currently they produce Rendezvous (blend), Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Mayhem (blend). In my opinion, they are in the top twenty-five wineries making Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa Valley. When blended, they achieve high accolades for their wines. For the last ten years, at least one has made my Annual List of Best Wines Tasted for the year.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
As an aside to the wine itself, two items have always caught my attention. First it is the label which is a beautiful watercolor of the vineyard at the base of Spring Mountain in Saint Helena. The second item is the statement on the back of the bottle which reads “Now and again one comes across a place so extraordinary it captures the imagination, yet you are not allowed to enter. We invite you to TRESPASS”. A very nice play on the wording with a picture on the front of the bottle
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2010 was their inaugural vintage of Escapade. It was comprised of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Cabernet Franc. It was aged for 22 months in 100% new French oak barrels. Only 95 cases were produced and was bottled unfiltered and unrefined. I filtered it twice before serving and you can see why. The filter had to be cleaned twice to complete the bottle process as it clogged up twice.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First on the eyes a very deep and brooding reddish/purple coloring. Blackberries and blueberries waft these delightful aromas to the senses. On the palate the fruits with dark cherry and the co-mingled Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc provided a well-balanced, bold and well-structured sipping experience. The astonishing finish provided velvety tannins with a long-lasting vanilla conclusion. This was getting close to the end of its longevity.
Today the Escapade has changed names to be their Rendezvous with the 2021 vintage being the current release. The percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc change year to year. It is listed at $150/bottle on their website.
This wine will make my Annual Best Wines Tasted in the Year for 2025, which comes out in December each year.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://trespassvineyard.com
Rombauer Wine Dinner at Verona18 – With a Few Nice Surprises!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
It had been almost twenty years since I had a full tasting experience of Rombauer wines, so when and our local clubhouse restaurant, Verona18 and Rombauer held this event thought it was about time. Rachael Akerley from Rombauer in Plymouth conducted the wine portion of the event for about fifty attendees.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Chef Jaime Alderete prepared the exquisite dinner for the evening. The evening started off with a Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho with herb oil as a shooter. This was the first surprise being paired with a 2024 Rombauer Sauvignon Blanc. Conventional thinking is that “tomato-based foods” usually trend toward high acid lighter red wines. The shooter was heavenly sent and the pairing with the wine was strikingly delightful. It generally got the best reviews for the evening for a wine and wine/food pairing from the crowd!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up a Sicilian-style Tuna Carpaccio with a garlicky herb dressing. Again the food was top notch and Rombauer 2023 Chardonnay, perhaps not to my likely, is still the number one selling Chardonnay in the USA and the number one Chardonnay for restaurants in the USA. The food and wine pairing was good but I kept thinking the Sauvignon Blanc would have tasted even better with the food.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up, and another surprise, was the Squash Ravioli of sage brown butter sauce, diced squash and tomato. The surprise was the taste of this light and tasty ravioli with a little sweetness. This was paired with their 2023 Pinot Noir from Santa Lucia Highlands from the Central Coast of California. The pairing with the Pinot Noir again for me did not seem to have enough weight to pair with the Pinot Noir. By the way for all the pairings, whether good or great, there wasn’t any wine left in the glasses!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Before the main entrée was served, an intermezzo refreshment with Prosecco and lime/orange sherbert as both a palate cleaner as well as to stimulate the appetite.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The main entrée was served up and a unique Surf & Turf of filet mignon, sauteed shrimp & lobster, with browned white wine and shallot cream sauce. The sauce was tasty and perfectly suited for both seafood and beef. This was another surprise of the sauce being well suited for both on the same plate. The beef was served medium rare and very tender.
The wine being paired was the Rombauer 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon with pronounced cherry, oak and medium tannins. This was a solid pairing with the filet, but the lobster and shrimp were left out in the cold with the Cabernet Sauvignon not making it a good pairing. Not to sound like a broken record but believe having two glasses to taste with the entrée would have been spot on with the Cabernet Sauvignon caressing the filet and Sauvignon Blanc with its citrus and passion fruit notes complementing the lobster and shrimp. Accompanied by fresh string beans and potatoes.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Last up was another surprise of Poached Pear with Gorgonzola dolci, tuile, chocolate mousse. This was paired with two Rombauer wines: 2022 Zinfandel and 2022 Zinfandel, Twin Rivers from El Dorado. Both wines were good with dessert and lots of discussion on which of the two wines went best with the desserts.
Video ©Michael Kelly
The crowd was very appreciative of Rombauer and Verona18 hosting the event and Jaime preparing such a wonderful meal to be enjoyed.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Picture of Rachael Akerley of Rombauer who conducted the tasting.
and
And Executive Chef Jaime Aderete who prepared each wonderful and delicious dishes for the evening.
A couple of us the following afternoon drove to Plymouth to a tasting with Rachael. We were treated to several reserve, older vintages and special wines which were all scrumptous. Here are just a few:
Photo ©Michael Kelly
and
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Would encourage everyone who has only tasted their regular lineup and have an opinion on Rombauer to try their “higher end” lineup for a comparison. You will be surprised!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
Two Fun Instagram Reels
I recently have done two wine stories but these two were especially fun to put together. For those who aren’t on Instagram or don’t follow me there, thought It would be nice to put the link on the website!
First is the one on Oakville East “Franc ‘N Stern” ( a play on Elliot’s last name Stern) with his 2016 Cabernet Franc. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DPUKE_pCTf7/?igsh=NGx3dDIxN2lrem1z
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The second on is on Wood Family Vineyards and their upcoming new release of “Against the Grain” Bourbon barrel aged wine. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DPKhly9AYc7/?igsh=NXE3ZXduMDZya3Jt
Photo ©Michael Kelly
You can generally find after each story on the website an Instagram Reel.
Enjoy and Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2016 Oakville East “Franc ‘n Stern” Cabernet Franc Perfect for October (and anytime)!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
Elliot Stern Pouring at the 5th International Cabernet Franc Wine Stroll Photo ©Michael Kelly
The name Franc ‘N Stern is intriguing as is Elliot Stern, owner, who has called his Cabernet Franc, Franc ‘N Stern since the introduction. I met Elliot many, many years ago and went through his lineup of wines at his kitchen table. I immediately enjoyed his Cabernet Sauvignon and the Cabernet Franc. I have always kept both in the cellar as “trophy wines”. The Franc ‘N Stern Cab Franc is an easily remembered name and his wine notes are whimsical and play on the “Frankenstein” theme. His notes alone are price worthy. Currently besides their Cabernet Franc, he produces two distinct Cabernet Sauvignons (Exposure and Double H Ranch) and a red wine blend. He has previously scored 94 points from Wine Enthusiast for his Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon Exposure. Marie-Laure Ammons, originally from France is the head winemaker at Oakville East.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine is extremely dark purple and magenta colored with crimson red hues. On the nose, dark fruits, violets, soft pipe tobacco, dark chocolate and fresh ground black pepper. On the palate, spices, including reclusive pyrazines (bell pepper taste), along with blackberries swarm the mouth with enticing and vibrant flavors. Rounded velvety tannins provide a medium long finish. With Marie-Laure coming from France, this is a very smooth wine combining both the old world and new world Cabernet Franc wine making skills.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine is 90% Cabernet Franc and adds 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. As Elliot states in his humorous notes, “IT’S ALIVE, IT’S ALIVE!! This wine retails for $100 and is worth every penny. This wine will make my annual list of Best Wines Tasted for calendar year 2025.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2021 Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Franc – An Immediate Winner!
Background
Photo ©Michael Kelly
At the 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition, Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery entered their first ever Cabernet Franc. It was placed in the $71-$85 category for California Cabernet Franc wines. Two different sets of judges rated their wine. From the disciplined Professional Judges they received a Gold Medal. From the People’s Judges they received both a Gold Medal and Best of Category for their price range. An excellent result from their first release of Cabernet Franc!
Stuart on the left and Charlie on the right Photo ©Michael Kelly
I had the privilege of meeting with Stu and Charlie Smith in August of 2024. An encounter which is paramount in my wine experiences. For the full story on the meeting and topics discussed you can read more at: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2024/08/14/smith-madrone-vineyards-paradise-found/ . It was at this meeting that I mentioned the upcoming 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition and they were very interested in entering their first vintage.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker, and the associate winemaker is François Bugué. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They produce Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) and a recently released Cabernet Franc.
Their wealth of knowledge about winemaking, Napa Valley varieties, Napa Valley politics (which there are plenty), and the history of Napa Valley is astonishing. I can only compare it to me with a paint by numbers canvas talking to Michelangelo when he was painting the Sistine Chapel. While both being very knowledgeable, they were matter of fact humbly quiet and with a great sense of humor!
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A quick background on Cabernet Franc in Napa Valley. Per the USDA California Errata to the Grape Crush Report Crop Year 2024 (dated August 25, 2025), Napa Valley crushed 3,682 tons of Cabernet Sauvignon. A small pittance compared to the 78,562 tons of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes crushed. In California as a whole Cabernet Franc represented only .003% of the grapes crushed for 2024. Whereas Cabernet Sauvignon represented 15.5%. Many do not understand the resurgence of Cabernet Franc commanding an average price of $5,206/per ton vs Cabernet Sauvignon’s average price of $2,186/per ton. Cabernet Franc, while small in comparison to tonnage crushed, its price is more than double that of Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Sauvignon may be King of the varieties, but maybe Cabernet Franc should be the one wearing the crown!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2021 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Franc comes from their vineyards that have been “pruned, cultivated and harvested in the same manner, creating wines of distinction and complexity” per Stuart. The wine is 89% Cabernet Franc and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon coming in at 14.7% alcohol. The wine spent 18 months in 60% new French oak barrels slumbering to perfection!
This Cabernet Franc on the eyes is dark and intriguing beckoning the imbiber to come closer and partake of a sip. On the nose, aromas of violets and pepper are dominant wafting into the senses. On the palate, medium weight and creamy (not taste), but a texturally sensation in the mouth. Black cherries are the primary and first flavor that springs forth. Secondary flavors of smooth blueberries surround the palate with joyous “chanting”. On the finish, green fruit is not noticeably (pyrazine characteristics) but silky smooth and caressing tannins catch your attention for a tasty conclusion to each sip.
Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced only 153 cases compared to their world famous dry Riesling of 1,087 cases. The current release of 2021 will not be available long and listed on their website for $85/bottle.
On my previous visit to Smith-Madrone I was able to taste it prior to being released. Now having more than a taste, this wine will now make my Annual Best Wines Tasted in the calendar year. This now gives Smith-Madrone two for 2025.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Chose this wine specifically to pair with a seared (1500 degrees) and BBQ’ed ribeye steak to medium rare. Accompanied by a Yukon potato and sauteed Brussel sprouts with mushrooms slices. An excellent treat with the wine and steak being paired beautifully this evening.
I can hardly wait to taste their second vintage of Cabernet Franc!
Sláinte,
Michael
2012 Outpost Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
The Outpost Wines under years of leadership of Frank & Kathy Dotzler was sold July 23, 2018. Located at 2200–foot elevation in Angwin on Howell Mountain (east side of Napa Valley). The buyer being AXA Millésimes, the wine division of the large French insurance company. They own wineries in Bordeaux, Burgundy, Portugal and Hungary. Those wineries include Château Pichon-Longueville Baron in Bordeaux, Domaine de l’Arlot in Burgundy, Quinta do Noval in Portugal’s Douro Valley and Disznókő in Hungary.
Previously I visited the winery yearly picking up allocations of wine, but have not visited since the buyout.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
100% Cabernet Sauvignon and aged 20 months in 80% new French oak barrels. Double decanted and filtered before serving. The wine on the eyes is a deep brick red with a medium heavy viscosity. Blueberry, lush blackberries, pepper and fresh violets on the nose. On the palate, it burst forth with vanilla pipe tobacco, licorice and both blueberry and blackberry flavors. The tannins are present but caressingly soft and Howell Mountain minerality lingers on the finish. The 2012 Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon on Wine Searcher retails today for $262/bottle and was rated 93 points. K & L lists it for $170/bottle and shows Robert Parker giving it 96 points.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This was a last-minute dinner and wine pairing. Picked up all meat frozen raviolis and a spicy marinara sauce. Accompanied by fresh sourdough French bread and a Cesar’s salad. Still an excellent choice with the Cabernet Sauvignon enveloping the meat ravioli and softening the spicy sauce. No doubt we overshot the pairing with the wine but it was all good!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
A Crocker & Starr Evening with two wines – 2019 Casili 12 and 2013 “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wines – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
As stated in title, two wines were chosen this evening for the meal.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
*The First Wine – 2019 Crocker & Starr Casili 12. This wine is a blend of 85% Malbec and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. While having various years of Casili vintages, each year the blend and percentages change. I wanted one with more Malbec percentage to go with the meat this evening. This bottle was placed in the “Eve” decanter by Riedel. This wine on the eyes was deep violet in coloring and even notes of the violet flower wafted into the senses. On the palate blueberries, black cherries were dominate, with mild oak lurking in the background. On the finish a modicum of dark chocolate and vanilla pipe tobacco, counterbalanced by minerality, and a slightly typical smoky element found in the better Malbec wines. This was exactly the flavors needed this evening. The wine came in at 14.4% alcohol. Wine Advocated rated it 94 points. The vintage currently being released is the Casili 15 and lists at $98/per bottle.
*The Second Wine – 2013 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
***
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was enjoyed after dinner while enjoying the warm summer weather on the patio. This was another solid choice as “Stone Place” is one of the premiere wines at Crocker & Starr. On the eyes a dense purple coloring filled the glass. On the nose rice and powerful blackberry wafted from the glass. On the palate, a lush and full-bodied fruit of blackberry and black cherry coated the mouth with “happiness”. On the finish a slight minerality and silky-smooth tannins as they seemed to be on siesta, present but not sharp (personal preference). This did make for a great sipping wine without food and came in at 14.4% alcohol. Wine Advocate rated the wine at 95 points and stated it should drink well for 20-25 years. My assessment is that it should be consumed this year or next as it is getting to its peak. The current release for the “Stone Place” is the 2021 and is listed at $195/bottle by Wine Enthusiast.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Our eldest daughter and husband were in town for dinner Friday night from Arizona. Prepared one of our favorite dishes, Carne Asada. Marinate a flank steak for 24 hours in a delicious sauce. The marinade consisted of cilantro, olive oil, reduced soy sauce, fresh squeezed orange juice, fresh squeezed lime, minced garlic, Serrano peppers, cumin, kosher salt and black pepper. All the ingredients were placed in a blender and then placed in a freezer bag with the steak. Additional marinate was kept separate to drizzle on the medium rare steak slices with fresh cilantro sprinkled and fresh limes squeezed when plated.
Accompanied by Mexican Pasta Salad made with corkscrew pasta, black beans, cherry tomatoes, diced jalapeños, fresh cilantro, yellow corn and cut green onions. The dressing consisted of extra-virgin olive oil, fresh squeezed lime juice, red wine vinegar, minced garlic, sea salt and black pepper. Both recipes were new and tasted exceptionally well and topped off with fresh cilantro. Accompanied by Italian herbedFrench bread. The wine provided bold fruits and enough tannins to engulf the beef spicy notes.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
For dessert, a freshly baked pineapple upside down cake from scratch with the juice added to mix, provided a very moist cake and delicious finish to the evening. The local store had no maraschino cherries!
The Winery
Photo from 2 years ago ©Michael Kelly
Pam Starr is simply a Rock Star. I believe she is one of the elite top 10 winemakers in Napa, but she is also much more than this. Knowing Pam Starr and following her exquisite wines for years, just about all would agree! Her technical pedigree comes from UC Davis in Fermentation Science. She started as an intern at Sonoma Cutrer, Edna Valley Vineyard, then six years at Carmenet Winery and then winemaker for Spottswoode Vineyard. In 1997 she and Charlie Crocker established Crocker & Starr.
Photo from Crocker & Starr website
Charlie Crocker comes from one of California’s oldest families, with his grandfather who was involved in the Central Pacific railroad in the mid 1800’s. His family heritage was a force in California’s development. Charlie also was involved in high tech and ran several companies very successfully. He has always had a keen interest in wine. Charlie in 1971 purchased the Dowdell property in St Helena. Today 85 of the 100 acres are planted in the classical Bordeaux grapes. On their website a detailed chronology is provided and makes a very good read.
The blending of these two personalities as a partnership is as smooth as their wine — seamless and magnificent.
What I enjoy most in getting to know Pam, is her genuineness and friendliness. You can stop by and see her in the vineyards, driving a forklift, punching down tubs of grapes, just about anything and everything. She is immersed in the business of “perfection”. Yet she has time, to sit down and talk, provide a bowl of water for your dogs, and even converse about mundane “non-wine issues”. She is above all else, extremely real and kind. Why wouldn’t you like her wine?
Her enthusiasm spills over into her craft of winemaking skills. I am speaking as a customer and wine club member from this perspective. Since meeting Pam, some twenty years ago, her wines started out at a 10 (scale of 1-10) and have remained at this quality the entire time! No easy feat with droughts, fire and wild temperature swings.
Let’s talk about the wines she produces. First, and why I sought Crocker & Starr initially years ago, was her Cabernet Franc. Each year they produce one of the most consistently solid and best Cabernet Francs in the Valley. The wine always shows a deep purple, with concentrates of black raspberries and tobacco. As some Cab Francs can be “strong”, Crocker & Starr‘s are strong in texture, but surprisingly soft and velvety to drink. They have enough balance of structure, tannin and acid to last 10-15 years without fail.
Today they produce a few Cabernet Sauvignon (RLC, Stone Place, One Post), Cabernet Franc and Casali (blend of Cabernet Franc & Malbec). Also, their white Sauvignon Blanc is superb. One newer addition is Brut Rosé. All her red wines and white wines have consistently made my annual list of “Best Wines Tasted” during the year for the last 15 years! See the links to these reviews:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2019/12/28/2011-crocker-starr-stone-place-cabernet-sauvignon/
One of their taglines is “Touch the Vines, Taste the Wines”. When visiting the winery, immersion into the vineyard is a prerequisite. In 2021 Cyrus Hazzard joined the Crocker & Starr team as a Partner & President to continue their esteemed tradition.
Slainte,
Michael Kelly
A Wonderful Birthday Dinner
Stayed home this evening for some of my favorite foods and wines. A bit of difficult choice as I enjoy many foods and wines. Did settle for the following items.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with an assortment of sashimi from Shiro Ninja restaurant in Angels Camp. A combination of Maguro (tuna), Hamachi (yellowfin) and Sake (salmon). Served with wasabi and ginger. This is only the third time enjoying the fish from Shiro Ninja and very happy with the freshness of their offering.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The food and wine pairing were excellent with the richness, delicate flavors and texture of the fish, complimented by the mouth feel and voluptuous wine. Did need to reduce the amount of soy sauce and wasabi for each bite so as not to overwhelm the sashimi.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2014 Peter Michael La Carrière Chardonnay is a wine that can be aged like many top shelf French Chardonnays. The deep and rich golden color was striking along with its minerality (La Carrière translated mean the quarry), almond, jasmine, lemon and pear notes. The intense creaminess was the hallmark of this wine coupled with a heavy viscosity. The finish provided jasmine and pear with a touch of butterscotch. Robert Parker gave this wine 96 points. Currently online it is running between $100 to $130/bottle. It should be noted that this is one of the few American Chardonnays that is age worthy. I generally drink them 8-11 years after the vintage date. Peter Michael in their notes today states the 2014 can easily go another 10 years!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
For the first dessert was a homemade pineapple upside down cake baked by Susan Kelly. This is one of my three favorite cakes the others being NY style cheesecake and German chocolate cake.
After a few other phone calls, video calls and emails, we sat down to watch a very intriguing movie on NETFLIX’s called Now You See Me. A mystery and suspense movie with a great ending!
As we watched the movie we enjoyed the second dessert, a 2013 Outpost Wines True Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
On the eyes a deep purple, almost black color like none other with medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose a bouquet of floral aromas wafted into the senses. Once on the palate, blueberries and blackberries were the dominant flavors with a slight sweet vanilla tobacco hiding. The finish was invigorating with what felt like fireworks bursting with flavors on all corners of the palate. It was the quintessential throwback to Napa Valley historical roots of what a Cabernet Sauvignon should taste like. Robert Parker stated “the finish was close to a minute” long. It seemed longer and small sips were taken to savor the experience. It was rated 99 points and current pricing ranges from $189 to $249/bottle and up.
And that is how my simple and enjoyable “58th birthday” concluded.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
2019 Smith-Madrone Vineyards Riesling – Tremendous Minerality and Dry
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker, and the associate winemaker is François Bugué. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They produce Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) and a recently released Cabernet Franc.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A quick background on Riesling. It is the 20th most grown variety and in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the top three white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted worldwide” per Wikipedia. Riesling is adaptable to growing in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of citrus and peach notes for warm, apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.
In the final California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush white wine grape harvest in 2024 was 1,417,993 tons. Riesling was only 29,341 tons accounting for only 2% of the grapes crushed!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2019 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apples on the nose. A more golden yellow color than the previous vintage with medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lemon zest, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the lime citrus. A modicum of beeswax makes it extremely mouth filling. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity are jovial and enticing with a semi-sweet crescendo. Very low residual sugar (.7%) and coming in at 13.3% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,087 cases. The current release is their 2019 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired with three dishes of Chinese food: honey walnut prawns, combination fried rice and lemon chicken. The prawns and chicken had a sweet character and the Riesling being dry provided a beautiful contrast for this meal.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2018 Smith-Madrone Riesling had made the Best Wines tasted in 2023 and the 2019 made my Best Wines tasted in 2024 and again will in 2025. We stock this wine specifically for certain food and wine pairings.
Sláinte,
Michael
Yates Family Vineyard Visit – Grand Sweepstakes Winner of the 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition – Part II
Background:
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Yates Family Vineyards entered the 2025 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition at the beginning of year. I had not heard of them, but everyone is invited to enter. Mary Yates filled out the form and submitted the wines at the last minute but still qualifying. The competition was held and as a first-time entrant, Yates Family Vineyards not only took the Best of Category ($71 to $85), Best of Show for all California (all price points) but also the Grand Sweepstakes Winner for all categories against a field of about 100 wines from 14 states and 3 countries from a distinguished panel of professional judges. A magnificent feat! I finally carved out the time to meet with the Yates Family team in early May. Besides the excellent wines, the surprises will amaze you!
The Winery:
The hilly terrain of Mt Veeder and their vineyard with old fashion screw press on property
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Yates Family Vineyard is in the southern portion of Napa Valley in the Mt Veeder district. I wrote about their rich and extremely interesting history in a previous post (Part I). The details can be found at on their history, winery, winemaker and gorgeous vineyards at: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2025/05/08/yates-family-vineyards-visit-grand-sweepstakes-winner-of-the-6th-annual-international-cabernet-franc-competition/
One of the more fascinating points of construction of the original winery built in 1880 was the use of a Roman Press. Only two are in existence today in California and neither are being used. Details in original story.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
There is a funny background story to how they started making Cabernet Franc. Lynn, Mike Yates’ wife, very much appreciated the intricacies of Cabernet Franc and asked him to make some. Mike obliged her and said whether it was good or bad that the one barrel produced was hers to drink if they couldn’t sell it!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Cabernet Franc is produced using 50% new French oak barrels with medium toast, for 18 months. Then rested in the bottle for 2 years before being released! Mike is not a fan of pyrazines in his Cabernet Franc, so this is a smoother and silkier finish. It comes in at 15.1% alcohol and only 126 cases were produced. It sells for $80/bottle when available.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First on the eyes the wine is a deep cavernous dark and alluring color almost black. On the nose fragrant floral aromas waft into the senses. Aromas of raspberry and blackberries are dominant and beckon that first sip. Once in the mouth, a symphony of flavors swirl about and present a unique taste of the rich dark & red fruits but also with distinct layers and textures similar to a Monet painting. Secondary flavors of blueberry and finishing off with a tinge of vanilla make for an incredible tasting experience. The finish has very defined tannins which tingle the upper teeth and tongue initially and then settle down to a silky and mouth filling landing.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Truly one of the best Cabernet Franc wines I have tasted. Without a doubt it made my annual Best Wines Tasted for 2025!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a 24-hour marinated Tri-tip steak in Chaka suace seared at 1500 degrees and barbequed to medium rare. Served with fresh parsley and accompanied by sauteed asparagus with mushrooms. Also roasted Russet potato slices seasoned with garlic powder, onion powder, smoked paprika, olive oil and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. A beautiful food and wine pairing!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly