Napa Valley Wineries
2007 Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle Blend – With a Simple Summertime Meal
Background
As the weather took a major upturn in heat, we just wanted a nice enjoyable red wine to go with a light meal and sip throughout the evening. Pulled this 2007 Larkmead Firebelle and it worked out perfectly.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Larkmead has been a long time favorite as former members of their wine club and still is one of my prized wines. First on the eyes, a deep ruby and brick coloring and medium viscosity. On the nose, it is very aromatic with flavors bouncing about with the three varieties in the blend of Merlot (62%), Cabernet Sauvignon (29%) and Malbec (9%). Intense floral and fruit elements waft into the senses. Once on the palate, black cherry is dominant with textured intriguing surprises including mocha. At the finish, the soft and cuddling Merlot is initially perceived then giving way to rounded tannins for a layered long-lasting finish.
The 2007 was with estate grown fruit and aged 17 months in 52% new French oak barrels. It came in at 14.5% alcohol and was initially rated 93 points by Robert Parker. The current vintage is about to be released at $100/bottle and pre-orders are being taken per their website.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The dinner this evening was a spicy sausage and broccoli pasta dish. Ingredients included olive oil, sliced garlic cloves, Flatiron Dark & Smoky peppers, smoked turkey sausage, broccoli florets, sliced mushrooms, bow tie pastas, kosher salt and black pepper. Topped off with fresh shredded Parmesan cheese. The wine was mellow enough with the Merlot portion so as not to overpower the dish and the Malbec component in the wine, along with peppers, brought out the smoky nuances. A very good and light food and wine pairing.
The Winery
Photo from Larkmead Vineyards website
Larkmead Vineyards is a long-established winery in Napa Valley. Originally founded in 1895, incorporated 115-acre estate under the stewardship of the Solari-Baker family. Andy Smith, winemaker for Larkmead Vineyards for this vintage, has consistently produced exquisite and age worthy wines for years. We were wine club members for many years. Today winemaker Avery Heelan oversees bringing their wines to market but have not tasted her recent vintages.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2010 Buccella Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley – Unwrapping the Last Bottle
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
2010 Buccella is a Cabernet Sauvignon (86%) with Malbec 6%, Petit Verdot 3%, Merlot 3% and Cabernet Franc 2%. Robert Parker rated this wine at 95 points a few years back. I acquired it eleven years ago and it has been resting with “its brothers” very quietly in the cellar. On the eyes this is a deep black color and medium-full viscosity. The fragrance is black cherry and blueberry. On the palate, it opens to express both the blueberry and cherry with distinction. Secondary flavors of vanilla and dark fruits abound. Key to this wine is the finish with soft and smooth silky tannins, this is not your normal big and sharp Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Rather than pick you up and slap you upside the head, this comes and caresses and warms you like a comforter next to a fireplace in winter. The style is as unique as its label. Absolutely one of my top twenty wines. Hard to find a 2010 rated 95 points by Robert Parker and price ranges from $185 to $225. The current release is their 2020 vintage. The wine comes in at 14.5% alcohol.
Unfortunately, this was my last bottle of Buccella!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Pulled this bottle out of the cellar to pair with freshly cut 2” filet mignon steaks purchased at Swingle Meat Market in Jackson. Seasoned, seared and BBQ’ed at 1500° on the grill to a beautiful medium rare finish. Served with a dollop of Blue cheese crumbles on top. Accompanied by fresh snap peas sauteed with garlic, a small Yukon Gold potato and a fresh salad with cooked bacon, cherry tomatoes and blue cheese. A perfect pairing for this tender filet mignon that was easily cut with a butter knife! The smooth tannins were sufficient to cut through the meat, and the taste was remarkable with both the meat and Blue cheese. This was the best tasting filet mignon in recent memory.
This was the first time we stopped by Swingle Meat Company, and we will most certainly be stopping regularly going forward. Great beef and other products are both freshly cut while you wait or some are frozen. They are a family-owned business and have been in business since 1945.
The Winery
Buccella is a small artisan and boutique winery committed to making limited quantities of luxury wines. They are in the southern area of Napa with fruit coming from some of the premiere vineyards in Napa Valley.
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
It is not often a wine goes without an identifying label with the winery name on the front. Their name and information being located on the back of the bottle. Collectors know that Buccella wines have this identifiable wax logo stamped on the bottle. It is a contemporary interpretation of a traditional silver tastevin cup used for tasting in Bordeaux and other areas. This along with the name “bucella”, a Latin word meaning mouthful, provides a perfect representation of this exquisite wine. The winery was founded in 2002 by Bill Deem and his wife Alicia who are still actively involved in the business.
The Winemaker & Consultant
The wine was made by Rebekah Wineburg who was the winemaker there from 2009-2015. Renowned winemaker Celia Welch was the consulting winemaker for 3 years at Buccella. Rebekah is now the winemaker at Quintessa and owner/winemaker at Post and Vine Wines. The current winemaker at Buccella is Bradley Schroeder
Sláinte,
Michael
Super Bowl Weekend – Opened the MVP 2008 Casa Piena Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Casa Piena is the winery founded by Carmen Policy who served as President and CEO of the San Francisco 49’ers from 1991 to 1997. Carmen was involved since 1981 , being friends with Eddie DeBarolo Jr in the executive leadership of the SF 49’ers. His legacy was instrumental in all five of the 49’ers Super Bowl winning teams.
Carmen and his wife lived in San Francisco permanently in 1991. Then later returned to Ohio for five years as President, CEO and part owner of the Cleveland Browns. They wanted to return to San Francisco and managed to move back in 2004. Seeking a change after twenty-five years in professional sports, then they decided to move to Napa Valley. Here they acquired the property in 2003 and planted 10 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in 2003. The first vintage produced was 2006.
Casa Piena translates to “full house” in Italian and was chosen to honor his five children.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I originally purchased this wine in 2011 from a friend in Napa Valley who was selling wine for Carmen. Carmen hired renown winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown to produce the wines from his estate vineyard. The current vintage is 2023 and sells for $150/bottle.
First on the eyes a deep ruby and purple coloring with medium-heavy viscosity. Looking at the wine in the glass there is an opulent declaration that it is special. On the nose, fruits of blackberries and black cherries waft delightfully into the senses with floral notes. Once on the palate, this wine shows the “Super Bowl” pedigree of the fruits, along with blueberries and a lovely sweet vanilla pipe tobacco. Finally, at the finish, dusty earth traits combined with luxurious smooth and velvety tannins. The softness of the tannins was like wrapping up in front of the fireplace on a cold evening in a blanket, surrounding each sip.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The initial assessment was rated 94 points and mentioned to drink before 2015. While it may have lost a little in the tannin structure, it was still an enjoyable bottle. The wine was originally aged 20 months in 80% new French oak and 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and came in at 14.7% alcohol.
The wine was double decanted and put back in the original bottle and allowed to breathe for two hours. This wine will make my annual list of Best Wines Tasted for 2026. Unfortunately, it was the last bottle in the cellar. I would like to taste a more current vintage as reports have stated the vineyard has matured to make some of the best grapes in Napa Valley.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this wine this weekend in lieu of the Super Bowl. While the 49’ers, our team of choice, did not make the Super Bowl, thought it appropriate to enjoy this wine. Tonight’s menu was a new dish called Skirt Steak Marinade with Chimichurri Sauce. The ingredients for the marinade were olive oil, fresh squeezed orange juice, fresh squeezed lime juice, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, red wine vinegar, minced garlic, skirt steak with kosher salt and pepper to taste. The meat was allowed to marinate for 7 hours.
For the Chimichurri sauce, which was a new recipe and divine, the ingredients included fresh parsley, fresh cilantro, olive oil, diced onion, minced garlic, fresh lime juice, red wine vinegar, crushed red peppers kosher salt and black pepper. All the ingredients were blended in a food processor to form a thick sauce that was drizzled on the meat slices on the dish.
The meat was seared on the barbeque at 1500 degrees for about 4-5 minutes on each side.
Accompanied by cauliflower rice with onions and a modicum of Chimichurri sauce mixed in and fresh sauteed string beans in olive oil and garlic.
While we absolutely enjoyed the marinade and Chimichurri sauce immensely, we were a bit disappointed in the skirt steak toughness. We will endeavor the same recipe next time but substitute the meat with flank steak.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
Rombauer Wine Dinner at Verona18 – With a Few Nice Surprises!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
It had been almost twenty years since I had a full tasting experience of Rombauer wines, so when and our local clubhouse restaurant, Verona18 and Rombauer held this event thought it was about time. Rachael Akerley from Rombauer in Plymouth conducted the wine portion of the event for about fifty attendees.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Chef Jaime Alderete prepared the exquisite dinner for the evening. The evening started off with a Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho with herb oil as a shooter. This was the first surprise being paired with a 2024 Rombauer Sauvignon Blanc. Conventional thinking is that “tomato-based foods” usually trend toward high acid lighter red wines. The shooter was heavenly sent and the pairing with the wine was strikingly delightful. It generally got the best reviews for the evening for a wine and wine/food pairing from the crowd!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up a Sicilian-style Tuna Carpaccio with a garlicky herb dressing. Again the food was top notch and Rombauer 2023 Chardonnay, perhaps not to my likely, is still the number one selling Chardonnay in the USA and the number one Chardonnay for restaurants in the USA. The food and wine pairing was good but I kept thinking the Sauvignon Blanc would have tasted even better with the food.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up, and another surprise, was the Squash Ravioli of sage brown butter sauce, diced squash and tomato. The surprise was the taste of this light and tasty ravioli with a little sweetness. This was paired with their 2023 Pinot Noir from Santa Lucia Highlands from the Central Coast of California. The pairing with the Pinot Noir again for me did not seem to have enough weight to pair with the Pinot Noir. By the way for all the pairings, whether good or great, there wasn’t any wine left in the glasses!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Before the main entrée was served, an intermezzo refreshment with Prosecco and lime/orange sherbert as both a palate cleaner as well as to stimulate the appetite.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The main entrée was served up and a unique Surf & Turf of filet mignon, sauteed shrimp & lobster, with browned white wine and shallot cream sauce. The sauce was tasty and perfectly suited for both seafood and beef. This was another surprise of the sauce being well suited for both on the same plate. The beef was served medium rare and very tender.
The wine being paired was the Rombauer 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon with pronounced cherry, oak and medium tannins. This was a solid pairing with the filet, but the lobster and shrimp were left out in the cold with the Cabernet Sauvignon not making it a good pairing. Not to sound like a broken record but believe having two glasses to taste with the entrée would have been spot on with the Cabernet Sauvignon caressing the filet and Sauvignon Blanc with its citrus and passion fruit notes complementing the lobster and shrimp. Accompanied by fresh string beans and potatoes.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Last up was another surprise of Poached Pear with Gorgonzola dolci, tuile, chocolate mousse. This was paired with two Rombauer wines: 2022 Zinfandel and 2022 Zinfandel, Twin Rivers from El Dorado. Both wines were good with dessert and lots of discussion on which of the two wines went best with the desserts.
Video ©Michael Kelly
The crowd was very appreciative of Rombauer and Verona18 hosting the event and Jaime preparing such a wonderful meal to be enjoyed.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Picture of Rachael Akerley of Rombauer who conducted the tasting.
and
And Executive Chef Jaime Aderete who prepared each wonderful and delicious dishes for the evening.
A couple of us the following afternoon drove to Plymouth to a tasting with Rachael. We were treated to several reserve, older vintages and special wines which were all scrumptous. Here are just a few:
Photo ©Michael Kelly
and
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Would encourage everyone who has only tasted their regular lineup and have an opinion on Rombauer to try their “higher end” lineup for a comparison. You will be surprised!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2016 Oakville East “Franc ‘n Stern” Cabernet Franc Perfect for October (and anytime)!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
Elliot Stern Pouring at the 5th International Cabernet Franc Wine Stroll Photo ©Michael Kelly
The name Franc ‘N Stern is intriguing as is Elliot Stern, owner, who has called his Cabernet Franc, Franc ‘N Stern since the introduction. I met Elliot many, many years ago and went through his lineup of wines at his kitchen table. I immediately enjoyed his Cabernet Sauvignon and the Cabernet Franc. I have always kept both in the cellar as “trophy wines”. The Franc ‘N Stern Cab Franc is an easily remembered name and his wine notes are whimsical and play on the “Frankenstein” theme. His notes alone are price worthy. Currently besides their Cabernet Franc, he produces two distinct Cabernet Sauvignons (Exposure and Double H Ranch) and a red wine blend. He has previously scored 94 points from Wine Enthusiast for his Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon Exposure. Marie-Laure Ammons, originally from France is the head winemaker at Oakville East.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine is extremely dark purple and magenta colored with crimson red hues. On the nose, dark fruits, violets, soft pipe tobacco, dark chocolate and fresh ground black pepper. On the palate, spices, including reclusive pyrazines (bell pepper taste), along with blackberries swarm the mouth with enticing and vibrant flavors. Rounded velvety tannins provide a medium long finish. With Marie-Laure coming from France, this is a very smooth wine combining both the old world and new world Cabernet Franc wine making skills.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine is 90% Cabernet Franc and adds 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. As Elliot states in his humorous notes, “IT’S ALIVE, IT’S ALIVE!! This wine retails for $100 and is worth every penny. This wine will make my annual list of Best Wines Tasted for calendar year 2025.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2021 Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Franc – An Immediate Winner!
Background
Photo ©Michael Kelly
At the 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition, Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery entered their first ever Cabernet Franc. It was placed in the $71-$85 category for California Cabernet Franc wines. Two different sets of judges rated their wine. From the disciplined Professional Judges they received a Gold Medal. From the People’s Judges they received both a Gold Medal and Best of Category for their price range. An excellent result from their first release of Cabernet Franc!
Stuart on the left and Charlie on the right Photo ©Michael Kelly
I had the privilege of meeting with Stu and Charlie Smith in August of 2024. An encounter which is paramount in my wine experiences. For the full story on the meeting and topics discussed you can read more at: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2024/08/14/smith-madrone-vineyards-paradise-found/ . It was at this meeting that I mentioned the upcoming 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition and they were very interested in entering their first vintage.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker, and the associate winemaker is François Bugué. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They produce Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) and a recently released Cabernet Franc.
Their wealth of knowledge about winemaking, Napa Valley varieties, Napa Valley politics (which there are plenty), and the history of Napa Valley is astonishing. I can only compare it to me with a paint by numbers canvas talking to Michelangelo when he was painting the Sistine Chapel. While both being very knowledgeable, they were matter of fact humbly quiet and with a great sense of humor!
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A quick background on Cabernet Franc in Napa Valley. Per the USDA California Errata to the Grape Crush Report Crop Year 2024 (dated August 25, 2025), Napa Valley crushed 3,682 tons of Cabernet Sauvignon. A small pittance compared to the 78,562 tons of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes crushed. In California as a whole Cabernet Franc represented only .003% of the grapes crushed for 2024. Whereas Cabernet Sauvignon represented 15.5%. Many do not understand the resurgence of Cabernet Franc commanding an average price of $5,206/per ton vs Cabernet Sauvignon’s average price of $2,186/per ton. Cabernet Franc, while small in comparison to tonnage crushed, its price is more than double that of Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Sauvignon may be King of the varieties, but maybe Cabernet Franc should be the one wearing the crown!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2021 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Franc comes from their vineyards that have been “pruned, cultivated and harvested in the same manner, creating wines of distinction and complexity” per Stuart. The wine is 89% Cabernet Franc and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon coming in at 14.7% alcohol. The wine spent 18 months in 60% new French oak barrels slumbering to perfection!
This Cabernet Franc on the eyes is dark and intriguing beckoning the imbiber to come closer and partake of a sip. On the nose, aromas of violets and pepper are dominant wafting into the senses. On the palate, medium weight and creamy (not taste), but a texturally sensation in the mouth. Black cherries are the primary and first flavor that springs forth. Secondary flavors of smooth blueberries surround the palate with joyous “chanting”. On the finish, green fruit is not noticeably (pyrazine characteristics) but silky smooth and caressing tannins catch your attention for a tasty conclusion to each sip.
Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced only 153 cases compared to their world famous dry Riesling of 1,087 cases. The current release of 2021 will not be available long and listed on their website for $85/bottle.
On my previous visit to Smith-Madrone I was able to taste it prior to being released. Now having more than a taste, this wine will now make my Annual Best Wines Tasted in the calendar year. This now gives Smith-Madrone two for 2025.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Chose this wine specifically to pair with a seared (1500 degrees) and BBQ’ed ribeye steak to medium rare. Accompanied by a Yukon potato and sauteed Brussel sprouts with mushrooms slices. An excellent treat with the wine and steak being paired beautifully this evening.
I can hardly wait to taste their second vintage of Cabernet Franc!
Sláinte,
Michael
Two Home Runs in One Evening – Both 2014’s, Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc & Meyer Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background:
Had a very busy few days moving my wife’s mother to an assisted living facility. It is amazing how much a 97-year-old can accumulate (even with a prior house sale three years ago!). After one day of physical labor and a couple of days of arranging furniture, fixing little things, hanging pictures, getting medical records, shopping for supplies, etc., the work was 99% completed on Tuesday late afternoon. Came home and decided to celebrate a bit with two excellent wines after a few emotional and intense days.
Wine #1 – 2014 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2014 Crocker & Starr Cabernet Franc possessed a bright purple hue on the eyes. On the nose, a fascinating combination of plum, vanilla and clove were the first impressions. On the mouth, a classic light “green vegetable/bell pepper” characteristics which gave way to dark & red fruits, tea and a hint of dark chocolate. The finish was long and mellow with residual sweet pipe tobacco. At the “beta event” for the International Cabernet Franc Competition the 2015 Crocker & Starr came in second. If we had tasted the 2014, I am sure it would have won!! Pricing on the web shows it from $80 to $120/bottle. Enjoyed this wine with a quick and simple dinner.
(more on this wine can be found at: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2019/10/21/2007-oshaughnessy-mount-veeder-cabernet-sauvignon-and-2014-crocker-starr-cabernet-franc/ )
Wine #2 – 2014 Meyer Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Wine Spectator rated it 95 points and Parker in the 90’s. In 2017 it was listed as #7 on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 wines. Meyer Vineyard fruit is on the hillside estate vineyard and aged 18 month in French oak barrels. On the eyes it is a very deep crimson color and heavy viscosity. On the nose dark fruits and chocolate waft into the senses. But similar only in the analogy of a circus clowns coming one after another from a tiny car, this wine continues to unfurl with flavors, layers and aromas. Dark cherry is prominent along with vanilla pipe tobacco with a finish of black licorice and long-lasting enjoyment. Pricing ranges from $80 to $100/bottle on the web.
(more on this story at: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2021/02/12/meyer-vineyards-2014-cabernet-sauvignon-8-of-wine-spectators-top-100-2017/ )
No food was tasted with this wine, just simply to enjoy sipping for the evening which we both did!!
Can’t wait to finish them this evening!
Sláinte,
Michael
A Crocker & Starr Evening with two wines – 2019 Casili 12 and 2013 “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wines – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
As stated in title, two wines were chosen this evening for the meal.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
*The First Wine – 2019 Crocker & Starr Casili 12. This wine is a blend of 85% Malbec and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. While having various years of Casili vintages, each year the blend and percentages change. I wanted one with more Malbec percentage to go with the meat this evening. This bottle was placed in the “Eve” decanter by Riedel. This wine on the eyes was deep violet in coloring and even notes of the violet flower wafted into the senses. On the palate blueberries, black cherries were dominate, with mild oak lurking in the background. On the finish a modicum of dark chocolate and vanilla pipe tobacco, counterbalanced by minerality, and a slightly typical smoky element found in the better Malbec wines. This was exactly the flavors needed this evening. The wine came in at 14.4% alcohol. Wine Advocated rated it 94 points. The vintage currently being released is the Casili 15 and lists at $98/per bottle.
*The Second Wine – 2013 Crocker & Starr “Stone Place” Cabernet Sauvignon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
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Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was enjoyed after dinner while enjoying the warm summer weather on the patio. This was another solid choice as “Stone Place” is one of the premiere wines at Crocker & Starr. On the eyes a dense purple coloring filled the glass. On the nose rice and powerful blackberry wafted from the glass. On the palate, a lush and full-bodied fruit of blackberry and black cherry coated the mouth with “happiness”. On the finish a slight minerality and silky-smooth tannins as they seemed to be on siesta, present but not sharp (personal preference). This did make for a great sipping wine without food and came in at 14.4% alcohol. Wine Advocate rated the wine at 95 points and stated it should drink well for 20-25 years. My assessment is that it should be consumed this year or next as it is getting to its peak. The current release for the “Stone Place” is the 2021 and is listed at $195/bottle by Wine Enthusiast.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Our eldest daughter and husband were in town for dinner Friday night from Arizona. Prepared one of our favorite dishes, Carne Asada. Marinate a flank steak for 24 hours in a delicious sauce. The marinade consisted of cilantro, olive oil, reduced soy sauce, fresh squeezed orange juice, fresh squeezed lime, minced garlic, Serrano peppers, cumin, kosher salt and black pepper. All the ingredients were placed in a blender and then placed in a freezer bag with the steak. Additional marinate was kept separate to drizzle on the medium rare steak slices with fresh cilantro sprinkled and fresh limes squeezed when plated.
Accompanied by Mexican Pasta Salad made with corkscrew pasta, black beans, cherry tomatoes, diced jalapeños, fresh cilantro, yellow corn and cut green onions. The dressing consisted of extra-virgin olive oil, fresh squeezed lime juice, red wine vinegar, minced garlic, sea salt and black pepper. Both recipes were new and tasted exceptionally well and topped off with fresh cilantro. Accompanied by Italian herbedFrench bread. The wine provided bold fruits and enough tannins to engulf the beef spicy notes.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
For dessert, a freshly baked pineapple upside down cake from scratch with the juice added to mix, provided a very moist cake and delicious finish to the evening. The local store had no maraschino cherries!
The Winery
Photo from 2 years ago ©Michael Kelly
Pam Starr is simply a Rock Star. I believe she is one of the elite top 10 winemakers in Napa, but she is also much more than this. Knowing Pam Starr and following her exquisite wines for years, just about all would agree! Her technical pedigree comes from UC Davis in Fermentation Science. She started as an intern at Sonoma Cutrer, Edna Valley Vineyard, then six years at Carmenet Winery and then winemaker for Spottswoode Vineyard. In 1997 she and Charlie Crocker established Crocker & Starr.
Photo from Crocker & Starr website
Charlie Crocker comes from one of California’s oldest families, with his grandfather who was involved in the Central Pacific railroad in the mid 1800’s. His family heritage was a force in California’s development. Charlie also was involved in high tech and ran several companies very successfully. He has always had a keen interest in wine. Charlie in 1971 purchased the Dowdell property in St Helena. Today 85 of the 100 acres are planted in the classical Bordeaux grapes. On their website a detailed chronology is provided and makes a very good read.
The blending of these two personalities as a partnership is as smooth as their wine — seamless and magnificent.
What I enjoy most in getting to know Pam, is her genuineness and friendliness. You can stop by and see her in the vineyards, driving a forklift, punching down tubs of grapes, just about anything and everything. She is immersed in the business of “perfection”. Yet she has time, to sit down and talk, provide a bowl of water for your dogs, and even converse about mundane “non-wine issues”. She is above all else, extremely real and kind. Why wouldn’t you like her wine?
Her enthusiasm spills over into her craft of winemaking skills. I am speaking as a customer and wine club member from this perspective. Since meeting Pam, some twenty years ago, her wines started out at a 10 (scale of 1-10) and have remained at this quality the entire time! No easy feat with droughts, fire and wild temperature swings.
Let’s talk about the wines she produces. First, and why I sought Crocker & Starr initially years ago, was her Cabernet Franc. Each year they produce one of the most consistently solid and best Cabernet Francs in the Valley. The wine always shows a deep purple, with concentrates of black raspberries and tobacco. As some Cab Francs can be “strong”, Crocker & Starr‘s are strong in texture, but surprisingly soft and velvety to drink. They have enough balance of structure, tannin and acid to last 10-15 years without fail.
Today they produce a few Cabernet Sauvignon (RLC, Stone Place, One Post), Cabernet Franc and Casali (blend of Cabernet Franc & Malbec). Also, their white Sauvignon Blanc is superb. One newer addition is Brut Rosé. All her red wines and white wines have consistently made my annual list of “Best Wines Tasted” during the year for the last 15 years! See the links to these reviews:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2019/12/28/2011-crocker-starr-stone-place-cabernet-sauvignon/
One of their taglines is “Touch the Vines, Taste the Wines”. When visiting the winery, immersion into the vineyard is a prerequisite. In 2021 Cyrus Hazzard joined the Crocker & Starr team as a Partner & President to continue their esteemed tradition.
Slainte,
Michael Kelly
2011 Shadybrook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon for a 4th of July Dinner
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery and Background
Photo ©Michael Kelly from a previous visit to Shadybrook Estate
2011 was not a great year for Cabernet Sauvignon’s in Napa Valley, or at least many believe it to be true. This wine bucks the trend from the Coombsville sub-AVA in Napa Valley with the help of their stellar winemaker Rudy Zuidema. It has been over two years since I last opened a 2011 Shadybrook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. Its transformation continues as it has been resting in the cellar. Obviously when purchased it was very good, but some eleven years laying down has made this wine impressive. When originally released, Rudy Zuidema used descriptors as “lush, opulent and finely structured” to open his winemakers notes. This wine used a combination of Clones 337 and 7 of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Clone 7 per Rudy was “added density to the nose and palate with black fruit, mocha and a bit of chocolate”. The equal part of Clone 337 contributed “elegance and aromatics lure of the wine with notes of spice, red fruit and cedar”. 6% of Malbec was added to provide background flavors of Asian spices per Rudy.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This evening on the eyes, a very dark red with just a hint of purple on the edges. The viscosity was medium heavy giving a clue as to what was to come. The bouquet on the nose was aromatic with raspberries being the dominant aroma and with mountain flowers. On the palate a harmonic blend of black fruit, chocolate, red fruit and gentle oak leaped about in the mouth. The finish was tiered and long lasting with a slight “soft and allusive” sweetness. The structure was strong and the tannins silky smooth with no obvious edges.
Upon the first sip, I once again bestowed high marks on this wine. This will make my Annual Best Wines tasted in 2025. The current vintage is 2021 and is listed at $145 and generally in high demand or allocated.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this wine out of the cellar to enjoy for the 4th of July with a seasoned ribeye steak. Seared on the outside and barbequed and served medium rare. Accompanied by garlic French bread and homemade potato salad. The potato salad was made the day before to let all the flavors soak into the potatoes. Ingredients included mayonnaise, cider vinegar, yellow mustard, sea salt, black pepper, chopped celery, chopped hard-cooked eggs and cooked bacon. A perfect meal to enjoy the holiday. The wine embraced the steaks handily and steaks soaked up the wine in complete abandonment.
Other stories on Rudy Zuidema & Shadybrook Estate can be found on the https://californiawinesandwineries.com and the story below provides a solid background:
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.shadybrookestate.com/
2019 Smith-Madrone Vineyards Riesling – Tremendous Minerality and Dry
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker, and the associate winemaker is François Bugué. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They produce Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc) and a recently released Cabernet Franc.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A quick background on Riesling. It is the 20th most grown variety and in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the top three white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted worldwide” per Wikipedia. Riesling is adaptable to growing in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of citrus and peach notes for warm, apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.
In the final California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush white wine grape harvest in 2024 was 1,417,993 tons. Riesling was only 29,341 tons accounting for only 2% of the grapes crushed!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2019 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apples on the nose. A more golden yellow color than the previous vintage with medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lemon zest, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the lime citrus. A modicum of beeswax makes it extremely mouth filling. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity are jovial and enticing with a semi-sweet crescendo. Very low residual sugar (.7%) and coming in at 13.3% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,087 cases. The current release is their 2019 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired with three dishes of Chinese food: honey walnut prawns, combination fried rice and lemon chicken. The prawns and chicken had a sweet character and the Riesling being dry provided a beautiful contrast for this meal.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2018 Smith-Madrone Riesling had made the Best Wines tasted in 2023 and the 2019 made my Best Wines tasted in 2024 and again will in 2025. We stock this wine specifically for certain food and wine pairings.
Sláinte,
Michael