Brick Barn Wine Estate
2019 Brick Barn Estate “Fatalist” Cabernet Franc – A Real Treat This Week
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
This wine won so many awards at the 5th Annual International Cabernet Franc (2024) it was remarkable! First, they won Best of Category ($101 and up) as well as Double Gold Medals by the Professional Judges. The People’s Choice Judges also awarded it Double Gold Medals, Best of Category, Best of Show for California Cabernet Franc wines and Grand Sweepstakes for all divisions. While Brick Barn had submitted in prior competitions with their regular Cabernet Franc winning many awards, this is truly a remarkable feat for this first-time entry of Fatalist Cabernet Franc!!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Santa Ynez Valley AVA
Map from https://carrwinery.com/
The AVA is unique to California as it is a long, east-west valley with both cool and warm climates. This allows for a range of varieties to be grown from Pinot Noir closer to the ocean breezes/fog to Cabernet Franc/Sauvignon to the eastern regions. Many Rhone grape varietals also have thrived in this versatile appellation such as Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Roussanne and Viognier.
The Winery
Norman and Kathleen Williams started with a vision for his 40 acres acquired in 1968. Today the property, Buell Ranch, has expanded to 1,060 acres with 35 acres planted in vineyards. Their inaugural wines were produced from the 2015 vintage, and they opened the tasting room in 2018. For a “more recent winery” they have garnered a real presence in Santa Ynez Valley.
Their “terroir” is unique being between the Pacific Ocean (only 10 miles away) and the warmer inland valley. This allows both the cool marine elements of morning fog and breezes to co-mingle with the warmth of the summer months. The net effect is ripening steadily and closing down for evening, producing great natural acidity and layers of structure/complexity for the grapes.
Picture from Brick Barn Estate Winery
The winemaker is Adrian Bolshoi who upholds the vineyards “non-invasive farming practices” that allow the vineyards to speak for and show their distinct personalities. Thus, minimal interventions are the hallmark of their wines. They use a variety of vessels in the making of their wines, including neutral oak barrels, new oak barrels, oak puncheons, stainless steel, and concrete. The reason being to highlight each wine’s fermentation process, which expresses the varietals full characteristics.
Today their award-winning white wines include Chardonnay (various), Albariño, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino and Viognier. Their red wines include Cabernet Franc (& a Reserve), Grenache, Pinot Noir (various), Rhone Blend and Syrah. Additionally, they produce their Fatalist label featuring the finest barrels and tedious management and craftsmanship. Those wines in the Fatalist lineup include Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah.
For both the standard and Fatalist offerings the awards are too numerous to list and can be found at:
https://www.brickbarnwineestate.com/wines/accolades/
“Fatalistic” can be conjectured as an odd name, but indeed it comes from the word “fate”. The meaning of fate from Oxford Dictionary “is the development of events beyond a person’s control, regarded as determined by a supernatural power”. Fatalistic is someone who shows a belief in fate and feels they cannot control events or stop them happening. While the vineyards may help the quality of the grapes determined by their location, I do think Adrian Bolshoi plays a major role in the outcome of this wine as winemaker! So perhaps “pseudo-Fatalistic” would more aptly describe this wine?
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
They first introduced the Fatalist Cabernet Franc with their 2017 vintage. The 2019 is now their second release. First on the eyes a deep royal purple and maroon coloring and medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose dark cherry and then bursts into the olfactory senses with floral aromas of violets and fresh roses quickly following. On the palate upon the first sip, the dark cherries spring forth with an appropriate amount of fruit, cedar and a faint vanilla pipe tobacco and rhubarb. The finish provides stately pedigree tannins but come across with a velvety presence. The result being an extremely smooth and balanced wine! Perhaps one of the most graceful finishes from recent memory.
Only two barrels of this exquisite wine were produced using Russian oak. It is listed at $180/bottle and comes in a remarkable low 13.6% alcohol content for such a big and bold flavor. This wine will make my annual list of Best Wines Tasted for 2025 (out in December).
The 2020 vintage is their current release.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a marinated Tri tip steak for twelve hours in Chaka then seared and BBQ’ed to medium. The steak was also seasoned before BBQ-ing with Flatiron Pepper Company’s Dark and Smoky spice combining Chipotle, Ancho and Habanero flakes. Accompanied by halved small seasoned and roasted potatoes and a fresh garden salad with bacon, cherry tomatoes and green onions. A wonderful food and wine pairing this week!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly