A Visit to Carlson Creek Vineyard in Willcox AVA
Background
As a wine writer and a recent transplant to Arizona, I knew there were roughly 150 plus wineries in Arizona, with approximately 80% of all the wines produced using Willcox grapes. Decided I needed to understand the area and ventured off to meet a few of the wineries/winemakers and of course taste the wines. Surprisingly I have not been able to find many of the Arizonan wines in local bottle shops or retail stores.
Willcox AVA Background
The Willcox AVA is the largest in Arizona and encompasses 833 square miles in southern Arizona.
Map from University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
The AVA length ranges from 40 to 45 miles, running north and south and the width averaging between 15 to 25 miles wide east to west. It is a large flat valley (or playa/bench) with an average elevation of most vineyards being 4,200 to almost 5,000 feet elevations. The Willcox Playa is sitting between the Dragoon Mountains to the west reaching 7,500 feet and the Chiricahua with the highest point 8,000 feet and Dos Cabezas Mountains 7,500 feet to the east. The highest mountain peak is in the northeast at 8,100 feet. With the high mountains surrounding the high valley floor, the diurnal temperature swings (daytime to nighttime) can average between 30-40 degrees Fahrenheit. This cooling down feature from the mountain air sinking to the basin, is a hallmark in preserving acidity in the grapes.
The land is a combination of sandy-gravelly, alluvial and volcanic loam soils which are ideal for vineyard sustainability. The Willcox AVA was designated in September 2016. Many indigenous people occupied the land like the Chiricahua Apache’s including the well-known leaders Cochise and Geronimo.
The conversation started out similar to a few previous ones with other wineries discussing the AMA (Active Management Area) that was designated by the Arizona Department of Water Resources to preserve groundwater supplies, address land subsidence and stop earth fissures caused by over-extraction. The issue for Willcox AVA, that being registering for well water rights as to obtain water, everyone must drill wells to a depth of 420 feet. There is conflict with the valley ranchers who reportedly have an estimated one million to one million and a half head of cattle consuming an extraordinary amount of water. The cattle ranches are “gobbling” up land to increase their ranches and herds. Grape growers in the AVA use a fraction of the water but are strictly regulated. For more information you can read: https://www.azwater.gov/ama/willcox-ama . The irrigation freeze (with some wineries grandfathered) prohibits entirely new acreage being planted. Landowners can only irrigate acres there were legally watered between 2019 and 2024. The crux of the issue is that lactating cows consume 25-35 gallons of water per day, beef cows 6-15 gallons per day and bulls require 10-15 gallons per day year-round. Vineyards in the heat of the summer require 5-8 gallons and with a drip system can get by with only 2 gallons a day, being watered 2-3 times a week. With vineyards being dormant in the winter there is a large disparity in consumption with the wineries being shortchanged in this archaic mandated ruling by the government. More later on this topic.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Met with Matt Kahl at the winery/vineyard/tasting room last week at 4574 E Robbs Road, Willcox, AZ. As I came to find out Carlson Creek also has a tasting room at 4142 N Marshall Way in Scottsdale. Matt has been their head winemaker since June 2020 and has years of experience from California, Oregon and other locations. Matt earned his BA degree in Agriculture Business Management from Oregon State University and then received his Enology and Viticulture degree at Chemeketa Community College in Salem Oregon. He then continued his education obtaining his master’s degree from New Mexico State University in Agriculture Extension and Education. He even taught Enology and winemaking at Highland Community College in Wamego, Kansas.
Photo from Carlson Creek website
The vineyard is now 320 acres with approximately 70 acres planted in vines. The vineyard is the 2nd or 3rd largest in the state both by acreage and volume. Their grape production is 130 tons which allows Carlson Creek to produce an estimated 3,500 cases using 50% of their harvest. With the additional 50% of their grape harvest being sold to other wineries around the state. The vineyard sits at 4,200 feet elevation with the cooling effects of night from the surrounding mountains and warm sunny days during the growing season.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Matt was quick to point out that their machine harvester was one of only two in Arizona. That brought up the question of hand harvesting verses machine harvesting. Matt stated unequivocally that ten years ago, hand harvesting was preferred and produced a more consistent higher quality of wine. Today with advances in technology, the machine harvesting of grapes is equal and significantly faster than hand harvesting. Another aspect he mentioned was the difficulty in getting labor help and bringing in the harvest on a timely basis for production.
A small portion of their barrel storage Photo ©Michael Kelly
The winery building and tasting room is 15,000 square feet which allows every part of the production to take place under one roof. As Robert Carlson III states this give them “greater control over every step of the process. It also allows us to welcome guests into the heart of what we do…”. The winery is truly a family affair with “Bob” Carlson, Jr overseeing the setting up of the operation from the beginning assisting Robert Carlson III to fulfill his dream of being a winemaker. The Carlson family planted the first seven acres in 2009.
While “Bob” could not make the interview, I enjoy reading his bio on their website. I especially like hearing about his military education at the Naval Academy, fighter pilot in the U.S. Marine Corps and practicing law for over thirty years and a partner in a prestigious law firm. I enjoyed his comment that he now wears many hats in the family business “including co-owner, financial advisor and day laborer at the vineyard”.
Their other son (John), daughter and wife all have significant roles in various aspects keeping the vineyard and wineries sales in order.
The Wines
I called Matt on my drive out to the winery to mention I was running a few minutes behind and the last appointment of the day was another 30-40 drive away. I apologized in advance that I would need to abbreviate the time, so it was going to be a fast-paced discussion and tour. Matt was very accommodating and we discussed the key points in rapid fire fashion as well as the tasting.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We limited the wine tasting to three wines that Matt selected from their three lists of options: White Wines, Red Wines and Wine Society Exclusive Wines. We started with the 2024 Chardonnay which was a new release. The wine was 13.6% alcohol, 90% was aged in stainless steel with 10% being aged in French oak. A crisp and clean Chardonnay with green apples and slight citrus bent. A very easy sipping wine.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up was one of their best-selling wines called the 2023 Rule of Three which has a double meaning with the first being the three varietals used in making Malbec (65%), Sangiovese (20%) and Syrah (15%). The second meaning being for the Rule of Three is for their three children. This wine such a strong and lovely aromas wafting from the glass about two feet from where I was seated as soon as it was poured into the glass. Violet flower was the dominant scent. On the palate, a combination of soft blueberries and blackberries captured an easy and relaxing wine without the heavy oak fanfare.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The last wine to be tried was, for me, the most enjoyable, the 2022 Syrah. The wine came in at 14.9% alcohol level with only 96 cases produced. This scored my highest rating of the limited ones we tried hitting all the key characteristics being on the eyes (dark and enticing), nose (rose aromas), taste (freshly picked raspberries) and finish (savory and begging for another sip).
Upon wrapping up the session we quickly hit upon topics like Ph levels, acidity in wine, tannins, using no filtration, use of cover crops, etc. He currently is working with University of Arizona’s extension office on the use of cover crops in the vineyard for improved water management.
If you are in Willcox AVA, this winery is a must visit to fully appreciate their wines and operations.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com