red-wine
2013 O’Shaughnessy Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon – Friends Catching Up Having A Lot of Craic
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Friends having just returned from being gone for three months got together, so decided to open this nice bottle of wine to catch up and share some craci (Irish Gaelic slang for fun). BTW, you don’t have to be Irish to enjoy this exquisite wine!
The Winery
Photo from O’Shaughnessy website
Located on Howell Mountain with acres of vineyards planted. The wine cave is perhaps one of the best in Napa with their infinity loop design. They also have acreage in Mount Veeder, they have produced exceptional wines for decades. Currently producing Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and the Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon.
Photo from O’Shaughnessy website
The owners Betty O’Shaughnessy and Paul Woolls, have held the highest standard of quality and customer service for years. This was set as the standard hallmark of their entire staff, including Sean Capiaux the winemaker and Alan Pierson, vineyard manager. Initially met all while being a club member for many years.
The Wine
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Mt Veeder. Aged 24 months in French Oak and one year in bottle before releasing. First on the eyes a deep enticing dark color beckoning the first sip of this dense wine. Grapes grown on Mt Veeder typically yield small clusters that bring forth both a briarwood flavoring and strong minerality. So too on the nose and palate this wine possesses both and is counterbalanced by blue and black berry fruit. Very well-integrated, the tannins are smooth and velvety, yet structure and layers of flavors abound. Initially given up to 30 years to age and I have no doubt, but at 11 years of age, very pleased with the maturity. The last sip continued to provide an enduring appreciation of O’Shaughnessy wines. Originally rated at 95 points. This made my annual list of wines tasted, this being for 2024. O’Shaughnessy Cabernet Sauvignon has made this annual list for 15 years of various vintages!
Today the current 2021 vintage just released is listed at $160/bottle. Will need to make a visit to taste this vintage.
While no food and wine pairing as this was after dinner, our normal for this wine is a BBQ’ed filet mignon with a Blue cheese crumbled over the top.
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Cuda Ridge Wines Carménère – A Unique Wine
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A Brief History of Carménère
The history of the Carménère varietal is as fascinating as it is happenstance! It was once one of the grapes in the Médoc region of Bordeaux. It served a similar purpose as Petit Verdot does today – producing a deep red ink on wines. It was one of the original six red grapes of Bordeaux. Carménère originates from the French word for crimson (carmin) which refers to the crimson color of the autumn foliage.
(Photo from Wikipedia)
When the Phylloxera plague hit in 1867 destroying most of the vineyards in Europe, many thought the Carménère grape was extinct. It wasn’t until 150 years later that it was discovered that Chile had preserved the Carménère grape thinking it was Merlot (from clippings planted from France). DNA confirmed that it was the missing 6th varietal of Bordeaux.
Carménère Today
Carménère grows mainly in Chile, specifically the Colchagua Valley, Rapel Valley and in the Maipo Province. It is also grown in the Veneto region of Italy, and recently several wineries in Mendocino, Livermore, Lodi, Napa and Calaveras are producing it, albeit in small quantities. Walla Walla also has some root stock growing in Carménère.
Uniqueness of Carménère
As a varietal, it has the deep ruby coloring and aromas of red fruits. Tannins are softer and milder than Cabernet Sauvignon, thus its use in blending to soften a strong Cabernet. The use is like the use of Merlot in formulating an enjoyable blend. Chile produces a 100% Carménère which has a cherry and fruity flavor but has traces of smoke and earthy notes with the inky coloration.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2019 Cuda Ridge Carménère wine lived up to and exceeded all the key characteristics of Carménère. On the eyes, a medium-heavy viscosity wine with a unique inviting deep purple coloration. On the nose, ripe Bing cherries greeted the senses. The palate is where this wine excelled. First the bright cherry taste was intense and concentrated. Plums and dark fruits then came forth with a hint of soft dry and wet earthen tones (minerality and forest floor) with black tea in the background. The earthen notes are generally found in Chilean Carménère but not found too often in California. The finish was long lasting with mocha and pepper finishing off the enjoyment. The wine is aged in French oak barrels (100%) for 18 months. This wine immediately after tasting made my “Best Wines” tasted in 2021 and again in 2024 (full list published in December).
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Larry Dino, owner and winemaker at Cuda Ridge Wines now has all six modern Bordeaux varietals available at the tasting room. The Carménère is the first locally produced wine varietal in the Livermore AVA. This second release is larger than the first year but will be flying out the door. Inquire at the winery for availability.
One of the solid and simple marketing ideas that Larry devised is his coloring scheme: White label for his Reserve wines, Black label for his non-Bordeaux wines and purple label for his Bordeaux varietals. Obviously Carménère falls in his purple label.
His Carménère will surely garner many awards in the upcoming wine competitions. The wine costs $50. Truly a good price point given the uniqueness and scarcity of Carménère plantings in California and the only current Livermore grown Carménère being offered.
Today’s vintage is the 2022 and he offers two versions of Carménère: Casa de Vinas and Insel Family Vineyard. He also offers the 2021 Little Dog Vineyard Carménère.
His awards for this delicious wine are as follows:
2020 Carménère Insel– Silver Medal, 2022 San Francisco Chronicle Competition
2020 Carménère Little Dog Vineyard – Wine Enthusiast, 92 points
2019 Carménère – Gold Medal, 2021 Orange County Fair
Sláinte,
Michael
2016 Palazzo Wine Cabernet Franc – Ultra Smooth and Silky
The Winery
Picture from Palazzo website
Scott Palazzo’s background is both unique and fascinating how he ended up being a winemaker. Scott grew up in an Italian family which influenced both his understanding of wine as an everyday event as well as with food and celebrations. At age 19, Scott set out with his guitar on his back and ended up in Europe. There he ended up in Saint Émilion (on the Right Bank of Bordeaux’s Gironde River). This became his wine paramount experience shaping his palate for years to come and the foundation for Palazzo Wine some 20+ years later. In 2003, after establishing a career as a television director/producer (nominated Grammy for Music Video & Television Director/Producer), he began searching for a similar terroir that he enjoyed while living in Saint Émilion.
Key to his success was his charismatic and energetic personality! Scott combined his experience with Old World wine in the cellar with New World fruit from lower Napa Valley rolling hills. Today his wines are featured by some of the wine world’s most famous restaurants. A small partial listing is French Laundry, Gary Danko, Michael Mina, Per, Daniel, Gramercy Tavern, Eleven Madison Park, Spago, Bouchon, Mastro’s Steakhouse, Emeril’s, Valintino’s, etc. The full list of restaurants can be found on his website, suffice to say, in any major city, find a prestigious restaurant and you will find Palazzo Wine!
Today Scott’s portfolio of wines includes his Master Blend Series (Left Bank Cuvee, Chardonnay, Rosé) and Reserve Wine Series (Cuvee Blanc, Right Bank Blend, Cabernet Franc).
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Scott started making his Cabernet Franc exclusively for The French Laundry in Yountville. This catapulted his wine instantly to “cult status”. The 2016 vintage is his current release of Cabernet Franc. On the eyes, this is a very deep crimson red color with medium-heavy viscosity. What wafts into the nose is a symphony of aromas from floral notes of crushed violets to red fruits like cherries and raspberries. Once entering the mouth all parts of the orchestrated flavors burst into a flavor profile like the 1812 Overture. Red and black cherries, subtle spices like pepper are counterbalanced with hints of dark chocolate. On the finish only a hint of pyrazines, this wine is vibrant, yet silky smooth beckoning one to take another sip. Structured and defined layers with silky smooth tannins are present. One of the smoothest finishes on a world class Cabernet Franc I have tasted. This wine has 14.1% alcohol. The current release is 2016 and priced at $115 and rated 96 points by Wine Advocate.
Sláinte,
Michael
2022 Wood Family Vineyards “Against The Grain” Red Blend Aged in Bourbon Barrels
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The History of Using Bourbon Barrels For Wine
In the early 1980’s, American oak barrels where expensive for many start up wineries. By law bourbon barrels must be 100% American oak and can only be used one time to distill bourbon in the United States. So, after their use, many barrels became available for “other distilled spirits” and wineries to purchase at a fraction of the price of new French or new American oak barrels. So why doesn’t everyone purchase used bourbon barrels? Key is that whiskey barrels are produced differently than wine barrels. Whiskey barrels are charred on the inside verses wine barrels which are toasted. By only toasting wine barrels, the wine while aging develops many nuances of flavor. Bourbon barrel aged wines tend to be bold with ripe reds, vanilla, smoky and with muted tannins.
Picture from iStock https://www.istockphoto.com/
The use of bourbon barrel aging has taken off recently with more wineries using these barrels. Some view it as a trend to attract Millennials who buy whiskies. Others view it as a cross over from spirits to wine and yet the resulting wine is unique, smooth and provides an enjoyable sipping experience. This market is exploding due to the flavor profile not just with Millennials but with wine aficionados looking to enhance their experience. This is now an important wine segment statement by the Wine Industry Advisor. It is estimated that 20 million bottles of aged bourbon barrel wines are sold annually. Today 60 brands offer a Bourbon Barrel Aged red wine.
A Senior VP for Southeastern Grocers had this insight “customers who prefer bold wines tend to prefer this selection during the peak barbeque months of summer, and the cool months of winter”. Also riding the coat tails of the large increase of Bourbon sales due to the “alphabet generations” has help spur this upward trend in wine sales. Additionally, according to the Bourbon Women’s Association, their figures show it doubling from 15% thirty years ago to today and they too are discovering bourbon barrel aged wines.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Last evening tried the pre-released 2022 “Against The Grain” that uses the following varietals: 40% Cabernet Franc, 30% Petit Verdot, 25% Malbec and 5% Petite Sirah. Each year it is a different blend. All the components of the blend are aged in traditional wine barrels (30% new and mostly French oak) before blending and transferring to the bourbon barrels. The first year of Wood Family Vineyards production in 2016 was 43 cases. They have steadily increased production with the 2022 being 90 cases. This year Rhonda Wood could only secure4 “new/used” bourbon barrels to infuse her wine! This vintage was aged nine weeks in bourbon barrels.
When you use the four varietals above, here is a quick breakdown of each varietal contributions:
Cabernet Franc: Red fruit, dried fruit flavors, lower tannins, can have a green bell pepper flavor.
Petit Verdot: Blackberries, plums, blueberries, licorice, mocha, vanilla
Malbec: Jamy, coffee, leather, black peppers, vanilla, slight tobacco, smoky
Petite Sirah: Blackberry, plums, blueberries, earth elements, lots of tannins, dark coloring
Now add in the bourbon barrel influence and the totality of flavors combined provide an intriguing and full mouth filling of wonderment. This wine is like a philharmonic symphony with the emphasis on philharmonic meaning “love of harmony” as it is with this wine. The symphony is the culmination of each part playing a distinct role and flavor profile to make a “whole” experience. The sum is greater than the parts!
The wine on the eyes was a cavernous and dark purple color with medium heavy viscosity. On the nose, the aromas of bold blackberry and blueberries rose to the olfactory sense. On the palate, the aforementioned fruits along with leather, vanilla and a smoky quality dominate. On the finish almost hidden soft velvety tannins combined with vanilla from the wine and barrel provided a noticeable Bourbon quality without overpowering the wine with a slightly “sweet” conclusion.
This year’s wine comes in at 15% alcohol versus last year’s 15.8%. The previous vintage sold out early last year and this vintage will be released on the 27th of October at $45/bottle.
This wine has made my annual Best Wines Tasted during the year since the first production and will again this year.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The food pairing this evening was with a seared and BBQ’ed filet mignon to a radiant pink medium rare level. Served with Danish Blue Cheese sprinkled on top. Accompanied by twice baked Russet potatoes covered with cheddar cheese. Also prepared were sautéed asparagus and mushrooms. A side salad consisting of butter lettuce, green onions, sliced Castelvetrano olives topped with toasted almond slivers and Parmesan cheese.
A wonderful food and wine pairing that went extremely well together. Other pairings done with previous vintages include short ribs, ribeye steak jalapeño meatloaf and BBQ’ed burgers. I can’t think of any red meat dish not going well with this wine.
Sláinte,
Michael
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