Nebbiolo
Tour of Italy Through the Wine Glass Presented by Classico Wines
slide by Classico Wines
This week Vinum55 hosted a wonderful one and half hour presentation by Kevin Smith from Classico Wines at their Chandler facility.
slide by Classico Wines
The meeting started up with everyone getting a refreshing non-vintage De Faveri “Valdobbiadene” Prosecco from Veneto in northern Italy. This is made with 100% Glera grapes and possesses an alluring aroma and flavor of fresh peaches.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Up next was the 2025 Agricosimo Pecorino from Abruzzo working our way up north. One of the key takeaways this evening was Kevin’s pointing out the differences between warm climate and cool climate wines and the effects on acidity. Wines in Italy that are from cool climate being more acidic, lighter body with more tartness and herbaceous quality. This wine being from Abruzzo on the east coast of Italy.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The third wine of the evening was the 2024 Conti Vermentino Sardegna. Vermentino is gaining traction in the USA as a nice in-between wine from a harsher/more citrus Sauvignon Blanc and a smooth Chardonnay. This is especially true in California. This wine provided all the harnessed citrus needed without overrunning the palate. This is a great wine with so many white tender fish and shell seafood dishes. This and the next wine having my highest rating of the evening for white wines.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The fourth wine was the 2025 Les Cretes Petite Arvine Valle d’ Aosta. This is a unique grape and not widely known. It comes from Valle d’ Aosta in northern Italy next to Switzerland. This cool climate wine is known for vibrant grapefruit notes, white flowers and a salinity finish. Bright acidity with a full body made me order a couple of bottles!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
That concluded the line up of white wines for the evening. We then moved on to the red wines which many were anxiously anticipating. Here again two red wines stood out and received my highest marks for the evening. The first red wine tasted was the 2022 Le Sabbie Dell Etan Rosso from Sicily. This wine possesses an earthiness and was very acidic being grown on the slopes of Mount Edna in Sicily.
slide by Classico Wines
This wine is often compared to Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo for its elegance, light to medium body viscosity and high acidity. Being planted on prior eruptions, the soil provides distinct mineral and smokey flavors, not pronounced but present.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
One of our personal favorite wines is Aglianico. Poured this evening was the 2018 Fontavecchia “Vigne Catarrate” Aglianico Reserva from Campania. Campania being on the southwest portion of Italy in a warmer climate. Here in this picture, you see Campania overlooking Naples with Mt Vesuvius in the background.
slide by Classico Wines
This was a hefty wine with tobacco, leather and dried herbs being forefront and very noticeable. Very different than a typical California Aglianico from Sonoma like VJB Cellars (one of our personal favorites). These two would make a great comparison in contrasting a warm verses cool climate identical grape.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We then moved on to two of Italy’s most famous varietals, Nebbiolo and followed by Barolo. This 2017 Arpepe “Rocca di Piro” Grumello DOCG comes from Lombardia and is made from Chiavennasca grapes a local alpine name for Nebbiolo in Italy. This grape boosts a 500-year history in the mountains of Piedmont. This wine is light, but packs a punch with bright red fruit, high acidity and firm tannins. A wine looking to be paired with food. Notes flavors of sour red cherry, cranberries and raspberries. Secondary flavors of wet stone, herbal notes and surprisingly mint. Both this wine and the following received my highest ratings for the evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The last wine and a crowd favorite was the 2021 Boroli Barolo another DOCG wine from Piedmonte and made with 100% Nebbiolo grapes. Key notes of cherry and plum stood out. Wood from barrel aging were also noted. This is due to aging 18 months in oak and then aged another 18 months before release. This is a classical Barolo and a good standard in understanding why Barolo is sought after throughout the world.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A very energetic and thorough “ride along” through Italy with various stops to enjoy some of their special and unique wines. Personally, I really enjoyed being introduced to two grapes/wines that I had not tasted previously, the Nerello Mascalee and Petite Arvine. We were so enamored with the Italy tour (and previous visits there), we had made reservations at an Italian restaurant to complete our tour and make it a perfect evening.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
2023 Soquel Vineyards Pinot Noir “Santa Cruz Mountains”
The Winery
The winery is steeped in history going back to 1919 with Giovanni Bargetto purchasing 52 acres. Giovanni Bargetto moved to Soquel from his winery located in San Francisco. He sold the entire property in 1945. In 1999 they had the vision to purchase 5 ½ acres from the original 52 acres. Today the winery is located at 8063 Glen Haven Road, Soquel, California. Soquel is just south of Santa Cruz and up in the hills above New Brighton State Beach. Giovanni was the grandfather of two of the current owners, Peter Bargetto and his twin brother Paul Bargetto. The third owner is their long-time good friend Jon Morgan.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
They opened the winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains in 1987. All three kept their “day jobs” for about 10 years learning to craft their wines. Wine grows on their property and in the Santa Cruz Mountain AVA includes a variety of Pinot Noir’s (six different labels), Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Nebbiolo. They offer the following varieties from outside the region: Atlas Peak Cabernet Sauvignon, Atlas Peak Merlot, Pyramid (Partner’s Reserve) from Napa Valley, Re Summers Ranch Merlot and Red Blend.
Photos from Soquel Vineyards website
They have been producing award-winning wines since 1987 and just a small listing of their 2022 awards mostly from SF Chronicle Competition include:
*2022 Cabernet Franc Pleasant Valley, Gold in 2024 and 94 points Wine Enthusiast
*2022 Merlot, RE Summers Ranch, Gold in 2024
*2022 Nebbiolo, Lago Lomita Vineyard, Best of Class 2024
*2022 Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains, Best of Class 2024
*2022 Pinot Noir, Saveria Vineyard, Gold in 2024
*2022 Pinot Noir, Partner’s Reserve, 93 points Wine Enthusiast
The list goes on and on delineating a myriad of awards and wine ratings to fill up pages! The key takeaway is this winery has put in the work to make excellent wines.
The Wine – 2023 Soquel Vineyards Pinot Noir “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2023 Soquel Vineyards Pinot Noir was sent to me to review. It initially opened a “bit tight” but shortly after opening blossomed like a bouquet of springtime flowers.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
On the eyes a soft magenta and red brick coloring and light viscosity. A beautiful translucence in the wine glass. On the nose a moist earthiness and faint strawberry aromas. Once on the palate, the dominant taste of freshly picked strawberries abounded. Secondary flavors of ripe cherries hit the mid-palate. On the finish velvety and rounded tannins, yet noticeable, concluded the sipping experience.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine is a combination of the Coast Grade and Soquel Estate vineyards. The wine is 100% Pinot Noir coming in at 13.7% alcohol. The grapes were in 100% French 3 year old barrels for 10 months with only 449 cases produced. It has already won Gold at the 2025 SF Chronicle Wine Competition and was rated 95 points and Editor’s Choice by Wine Enthusiast. That is a lot of wine for only $30/bottle!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was chosen to go with baked Pork Tenderloin this evening. We generally enjoy Pinot Noir wine, mostly with Pork Tenderloin and occasionally with a rib eye steak. This evening using a dry rub on the Pork Tenderloin consisting of brown sugar, smoked paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, cumin, sea salt, black pepper, Italian seasoning and a pinch of Chili powder. Accompanied by roasted quartered Yukon Gold potatoes in olive oil and then tossed with garlic salt and finished with freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Also sauteed Brussel spouts with fresh smoked bacon along with a fresh garden salad with green onions, smoked bacon and quartered cherry tomatoes with a Northern Italian dressing. The pork slices garnished with Steward & Jasper Cherry Pepper Sauce and freshly cut basil. An excellent wine and food pairing this evening.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly