Livermore Valley Wine
2023 Wood Family Vineyards “Hot Lips” Sparkling Blanc de Blanc
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background and Fun Facts on Sparkling & Champagne Wines
This will be the first release of sparkling wine using 100% Chardonnay grapes from Wood Family Vineyards. There is so much more behind simply “bubbles” in the glass with sparkling wines!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Another fun fact is that in a flute of sparkling wine there are approximately one million bubbles.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Do you know what the metal cage on sparkling wine is called and why it is used? A muselet (French: [myz. le]) is a wire cage that fits over the cork of a bottle of champagne, sparkling wine or beer to prevent the cork from emerging under the pressure of the carbonated contents. The pressure inside a bottle of bubbly is typically somewhere between 70 and 90 pounds per square inch or twice the pressure of a typical car tire! The muselet is an added method of security to keep the cork in place.
The basic three categories of Champagne/Sparkling wine are:
Blanc de Blanc-made exclusively from white grapes
Blanc de Noirs-made exclusively from black grapes like Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.
Rosé– adding a small amount of red wine or by leaving the red grape skins with juice during pressing.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
To help give a perspective on sugar levels for Champagne or Sparkling wines, here are the basic categories, going from sweet to dry based on dosage of sugar added:
• Doux: 50 or more grams of sugar added per liter. Outrageously sweet.
• Demi-Sec: 32 to 50 grams of sugar. Still sweet but showing some traction in the market.
• Sec: “Sec” in French means dry. But dry here indicates a medium sweet sparking of 17 to 32 grams of sugar per liter.
• Extra Sec: Meaning “Extra Dry” which is less sweet than Sec wine with 12 to 17 grams of sugar per liter.
• Brut: Up to 12 grams of sugar added. This leads to a balance of flavor and acidity. A bit more rounded than Extra Brut. This is one of the more popular levels of Champagne for consumers.
• Extra Brut: With fewer than 6 grams of sugar, this will produce higher acid and accentuate the carbonation.
• Brut Nature: With no sugar added (less than 3 grams), not common but a way for the winemaker to allow the quintessential nature of the Sparkling wine. This will provide strong minerality and high acidity.
Some key and common terms used in Sparkling and Champagne production:
Méthode Traditionelle – Two separate alcoholic fermentations are involved in the production of Champagne. The first is primary fermentation that occurs in stainless steel vats or oak barrels. The second fermentation takes place in the bottle prompted by the addition of a mixture of sugar and yeast that produces bubbles.
Liqueur de tirage – This mixture of wine, sugar and yeast added to still wine promotes a secondary fermentation in sparkling wine production.
Riddling – This involves moving the bottle very slowly from a horizontal to an inverted vertical position in order to dislodge the yeast sediment which slides down the side of the bottle, collecting in the plastic insert under the crown cap.
Disgorgement – When the crown cap seal is removed, the pressure created by the dissolved CO2 ejects the frozen wine, taking the sediment and plastic insert with it.
Liqueur d’expedition – This is a mix of wine and sugar used to make the final adjustment to the sweetness of sparkling wine prior to corking.
Dosage – This is an adjustment of the sugar level in Champagne and other sparkling wines by the addition of liqueur d’expedition.
Zero Dosage (Brut Nature) – No dosage (sugar) is added.
This 2023 “Hot Lips” Sparkling uses Methode Champenoise (traditional) and uses no additional dosage of sugar.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine is called Blanc de Blanc Sparkling meaning it uses only Chardonnay grapes. Most traditional Champagnes, greater than 95%, use three grapes in France: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Some additional grape varieties are allowed such as Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, Voltis and Pinot Gris.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine using only 100% Chardonnay is a little one dimensional yet still tasty with their exquisite and fan favorite Chardonnay grapes with 30% coming from Block 12 at Kaltoff Common in Livermore and 70% from Wisner vineyard. Many of the key characteristics of their exquisite Chardonnay carry to the sparkling wine. Noticeable is the coloring of a bright and light golden color. On the nose, green apple with a light brioche came through wonderfully. On the palate a softer and milder Chardonnay tastes of almond and soft yellow fruit. The bubbles provided an uplifting and spring freshness.
The sparkling will be release at their “Bottomless Bubbles and Bunch” on November 2nd with two seatings and at their Fourth Quarter Release Party November 22nd and 23rd. The price will be $50/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
And
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Two charcuterie plates were served with the sparkling Blanc de Blac this late afternoon/evening. They included some nutty cheese like aged Gouda, Brie and others along with crackers, salami, nuts and cranberries. All were served to highlight the wine and not overpower the delicate taste.
Personally, I think this sparkling necessitates a careful and purposed choice of foods to bring forth the quality of the wine, so the food will not overpower it.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2022 Cuda Ridge Wines Merlot With Pork Chops and New Spices
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Larry Dino, owner and winemaker at Cuda Ridge, was beyond excited at getting the news that his 2022 Merlot got mentioned as being one of the thirteen favorite Merlots from around the world. To be mentioned in an article featuring Merlot wines from Bordeaux, Tuscany, Napa Valley, Santa Maria Valley and Washington and some running up to $1,000 a bottle is some accomplishment and recognition.
Photo from Cuda Ridge Wines
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo from https://film-grab.com/2013/11/21/sideways/
Paul Giamatti, the actor in the iconic movie “Sideways” playing the role as Miles and his disdain of Merlot almost killed this wondrous grape varietal in California. Even after two decades with Paul’s comments, Merlot is slowly recovering from his disparaging comments on the varietal. His classic comments ranging from “No, if anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving” to “I am NOT drinking any ####### Merlot!” only begins to frame the movie.
Photo ©Michael Kelly with Pinot Noir grapes in background
A great book that just came out called “Sideways Uncorked” by Kirk and Mira Advani Honeycutt recaps the Merlot saga as well as the rise of Pinot Noir. Many did not understand the significance of the end of the movie with Miles saving a bottle of Chateau Cheval Blanc, a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc that he was saving for a special occasion! He ended the movie confirming his love of Merlot!!
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First on the eyes a deep purple and magenta color with a medium-heavy viscosity. This is no ordinary Merlot upon first glance! This would have made even Miles take pause and notice! Once the cork was popped, the strong aromas of plums and blackberries rushed into the senses hinting as what was to come! This mystery dark wine with beautiful aromas once in your mouth only begins to tell the story of this varietal by Cuda Ridge Wines. The dark plum flavor along with blackberries co-mingled happily like an Irish jig on the palate. On the palate, one is struck with the boldness, jammy (not sweet but texturally) and a chewy quality of the wine. On the finish, black pepper counterbalanced by a note of vanilla with subtle tannins in the background, provide an enduring conclusion to each sip.
The wine comes from the eastern portion of Livermore with the majority (90%) being Thatcher Bay vineyards where the cooling afternoon winds provide an overall warm climate. Larry adds 7% Smith Ranch vineyard Petit Verdot and 3% White Cat vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon to make this elegant wine. Barrel treatment is 90% French oak with 44% being new and 10% American oak barrels. The wine is in barrels for 19 months. Now the newsflash – it is listed at $40/bottle and comes in at 14% alcohol with only 220 cases produced.
This wine just made my annual Best Wines Tasted in 2025 for the quality and value in the category up to $51.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Adding to our wintertime “comfort foods” we decided on very thick pork chops tonight, approximately 2 ½” thick. First a spice rub coated the two pieces with ingredients of brown sugar, garlic powder, onion powder, Italian seasoning, sea salt, black pepper and chopped parsley. Tonight, two new spices from Flatiron Pepper Company were added to the rub mix; one being the Dark and Smokey (chipotle, ancho and habanero peppers) and Hatch Valley Green (Hatch green chili, jalapeno, habanero peppers). The characteristics of the spices are phenomenal with smokiness, sweet & savory tastes, citrus, intense heat and bright green chili flavor. The pork chops were first seared on the stove top and then baked in the oven.
Accompanied by sauteed asparagus, small red potatoes that were halved, then seasoned and roasted. A fresh garden salad was served with pepita seeds, cherry tomatoes, green onions and crumbled Blue cheese.
A winning combination of food and wine with its fruit, surrounded each bite of the spicy pork, cooling it down and it provided a great counterbalance to the dish.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
There is a lot to be said about Cuda Ridge Wines in Livermore, California with Larry Dino as the winemaker and his wife Margie as chief wine taster. They produce Bordeaux style wines. The Cuda Ridge Wines tasting room is located at 2400 Arroyo Road in Livermore, California. Cuda Ridge Wines current production is approximately 2100 cases. They produce the following Bordeaux varietals: Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and most recently their addition of Carménère. Always experimenting, Larry Dino also has produced non-Bordeaux style wines which are designated under their Black label, these wines include Sangiovese, New-World style Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and others. Each varietal produced are small lots ranging from 100 – 450 cases. Cuda Ridge does extensive blending of varietals and strives for lower alcohol wines with intense complexity and character, traditional of the Bordeaux style wines.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
“Sideways Uncorked” by Kirk Honeycutt and Mira Advani Honeycutt
2023 Wood Family Chardonnay – A Great Vintage!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Rhonda Wood has been producing awarded Chardonnay for at least 7 years in a row and before. I personally have enjoyed this wine extensively for the same amount of time. It has also won my Best Wines tasted during the year for the same amount of time. Over the last 7 years, as a testimony to her quality of Chardonnay, I have purchased 8-14 cases a year. What I also find interesting, while a thread of flavors are evident year to year, the nuances of the wine do change with the “terroir” of the year.
When one is consistent in a sport they are called All Star, consistent in horse racing they are known as a thoroughbred, consistent in car racing they are called a champion, etc. All those accolades and more are indeed worthy of Rhonda’s Chardonnay and several of her other wines.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I have called in the past Wood Family Vineyards Chardonnay the “Utility Player of Wines” as it goes so well with so many dishes. In reviewing stories, I have written about this Chardonnay food pairings dishes have included: Asian chicken wraps, swordfish, seared Ahi tuna, baked stuff chicken, stir fried chicken with Bok Choy, baked butterflied chicken with Swiss cheese, blackened Mahi Mahi, Tempura chicken with noodles, shrimp Pad Thai, Firecracker chicken, seared scallops and many more dishes.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First on the eyes a bright and deep golden color. Swirling the wine in the glass, you immediately see the thick and rich texture of this creamy wine. On the nose when cold, a slight lime note wafted in the senses, but as it warmed up, green apple and a tinge of green tea were present. On the palate most notable was the weightiness of the wine in the mouth. Honeydew melon was the dominant flavor with both buttery brioche dough and soft lemon zest and almond coming to the party. Also, on the finish a fresh star fruit quality was present. This year the butter scotch finish was not as pronounced, yet the wine encapsulated the mouth with a spring freshness.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2023 comes from two vineyards with 70% being Wisner and 30% being from Kalthoff Common area. These two are on opposite sides of Livermore. Barrel treatment was 100% French oak with 32.5% being new, 30% being once used and the balance being neutral. The wine was aged 9 months, and 900 cases were produced. The lees were stirred once every two weeks for five months. It sells for $36/bottle and comes in just slightly higher alcohol than 2022 at 14.6%.
The 2022 Wood Family Vineyards Chardonnay won Double Gold at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A bit of a gamble this evening, pairing the wine with chicken stir fry with Udon noodles. Ingredients included broccoli and topped with slices of green onions. I was a bit concerned that the Udon spicy sauce would be too much for the Chardonnay. The Wood Chardonnay was a perfect match for the food. The honeydew melon, along with the lemon zest and brioche in the wine was both simpatico and a little polarizing, to make each bite delightful. Just added one more dish to the mix for this lovely Wood Family Chardonnay!
The Winery
Photo from Wood Family Vineyards
Wood Family Vineyards, located in eastern Livermore Valley with Rhonda Wood owner & winemaker, has been producing award winning wines for over two decades. You can read more on her background from airline pilot to award winning winemaker at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2016/02/10/wood-family-vineyards-2
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2023 CULMINATION Cabernet Franc a Cut Above and for Discerning Cab Franc Drinkers!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
The word culmination is defined by the “end point or final stage of something you’ve been working toward or something that’s been building up”. Synonyms are apex, climax, peak, pinnacle, summit or zenith. Wood Family Vineyards, having made dozens upon dozens of award-winning wines, decided to launch a second label in 2024. The second label is the culmination of intense understanding of the vineyard management, grape harvesting, production techniques, barrel choices and wines their customers desired. Simply stated the culmination of decades of intense knowledge and experience was more than appropriate to call the new label CULMINATION!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
So why this new label and offering? Often a second label is the function of selecting grapes from a particular row in the vineyard, special barrels, pricing profiling or aging considerations. From conversations with Harrison Wood VP and Rhonda Wood the winemaker, the second label is much more than augmenting their current production. The CULMINATION label is reserved for a complete selection process and techniques producing some of the same varieties they produce at Wood Family Vineyards with extraordinary attention to detail. For example, their Wood Family Vineyards award-winning Cabernet Franc (Gold Medal, Double Gold Medals, etc.) come 100% from the One Oak Vineyard.
The previous CULMINATION Cabernet Franc came from two different vineyards. This year all the grapes were harvested from their estate vineyard.
Their intention is to introduce an elevated experience beyond their current offering and tasting room enjoyment. The CULMINATION wines will be targeted at wine connoisseurs and those wanting a more intimate experience with possible food pairings like their sunset dinners with CULMINATION WINES this year, called the CULMINATION Experience in the vineyard that was recently held.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
As mentioned earlier, this wine is from their estate vineyard in Livermore. 82% came from their original vineyard One Oak and the remaining 18% came from their second planting on their estate. The 2023 Cabernet Franc provides a truly remarkable flavor profile of Old-World verses California Cabernet Franc meeting. Many California Cabernet Franc wines are dark, robust, bold and earthy. French Cabernet Franc wines are typically elegant with softer, silker tannins. CULMINATION Cabernet Franc pulls these two contrasting flavor profiles and presents them united in the same bottle. A great analogy for this wine is a gymnast on a balance beam requiring both grace and strength in a routine.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
On the eyes the core center of the glass being an enticing dark color and medium viscosity. On the nose, violets and dark fruits waft into the senses. I did notice that having left it open for an hour, more aromas were present. On the palate, here the gymnast analogy comes into play with not brutish force stating “take notice of me” but underlying structure and finesse coming into play. Dark fruit of raspberries and blackberries with a tinge of blueberries developed a full and complete play in the mouth. The finish was intriguing with initially soft and rounded tannins then developing into robust and stately tannins. There was also a flinty and minerality presence at the conclusion. The wine really is a food companion wine with its strong tannins. This wine is for serious and discerning imbibers of Cabernet Franc. This is your California Cabernet Franc without training wheels!
At the 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Competition, their initial 2022 CULMINATION Cabernet Franc took a Gold Medal from the Professional Judges.
For the 2023 Culmination Cabernet Franc only 150 cases were produced. It is scheduled to be released in December 2025 at $80/bottle and at 14% alcohol.
The barrel treatment was 32% new French oak and most of the balance used French oak. It was aged in barrels for 19 months. One of the unique characteristics of this wine will be its ability to be aged 10-15 years in my opinion.
This wine just made my annual list of Best Wines Tasted for 2025 with its fruit and robust tannins hitting my precise target!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with seared and BBQ’ed filet mignons to medium rare and topped with Blue Cheese, butter and chive dollop. Accompanied by sliced Russet potato wedges, seasoned and baked with Parmesan cheese. Also sauteed mushrooms and steamed broccoli. The food and wine pairing were excellent with the full dark fruit of the wine enveloping the meat and tannins cutting through the rich meat. The strong tannins stood up to the meat and the mushrooms enhanced the earthiness; a key characteristic found in Cabernet Franc.
I look forward to tasting it again at the formal release in December 2025.
Sláinte,
Michael
Two Fun Instagram Reels
I recently have done two wine stories but these two were especially fun to put together. For those who aren’t on Instagram or don’t follow me there, thought It would be nice to put the link on the website!
First is the one on Oakville East “Franc ‘N Stern” ( a play on Elliot’s last name Stern) with his 2016 Cabernet Franc. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DPUKE_pCTf7/?igsh=NGx3dDIxN2lrem1z
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The second on is on Wood Family Vineyards and their upcoming new release of “Against the Grain” Bourbon barrel aged wine. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DPKhly9AYc7/?igsh=NXE3ZXduMDZya3Jt
Photo ©Michael Kelly
You can generally find after each story on the website an Instagram Reel.
Enjoy and Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2023 Wood Family Vineyards “Against the Grain” Bourbon Barrel Aged Red Wine – A Big Change?
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The History of Using Bourbon Barrels For Wine
In the early 1980’s, American oak barrels where expensive for many start up wineries. By law bourbon barrels must be 100% American oak and can only be used one time to distill bourbon in the United States. So, after their use, many barrels became available for “other distilled spirits” and wineries to purchase at a fraction of the price of new French or new American oak barrels. So why doesn’t everyone purchase used bourbon barrels? Key is that whiskey barrels are produced differently than wine barrels. Whiskey barrels are charred on the inside verses wine barrels which are toasted. By only toasting wine barrels, the wine while aging develops many nuances of flavor. Bourbon barrel aged wines tend to be bold with ripe reds, vanilla, smoky and with muted tannins.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The use of bourbon barrel aging has taken off recently with more wineries using these barrels. Some view it as a trend to attract Millennials who buy whiskies. Others view it as a crossover from spirits to wine and yet the resulting wine is unique, smooth and provides an enjoyable sipping experience. This market is exploding due to the flavor profile not just with Millennials but with wine aficionados looking to enhance their experience. This is now an important wine segment statement by the Wine Industry Advisor. It is estimated that 20 million bottles of aged bourbon barrel wines are sold annually. Today 60 brands offer Bourbon Barrel Aged red wine.
A Senior VP for Southeastern Grocers had this insight “customers who prefer bold wines tend to prefer this selection during the peak barbeque months of summer, and the cool months of winter”. Also riding the coat tails of the large increase of Bourbon sales due to the “alphabet generations” has helped spur this upward trend in wine sales. Additionally, according to the Bourbon Women’s Association, their figures show it doubling from 15% thirty years ago to today and they too are discovering bourbon barrel aged wines.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The counter punch to the success of Bourbon Barrel aged wines comes from writer Blatner who believes bourbon barrel-aging has uses in other settings, he’s skeptical that it will be a long-term trend for wines. “Bourbon barrels add legit richness to stouts, porters, BBQ sauces, and even maple syrup. But when it’s slapped on a product just to move inventory, that’s where it loses credibility. I think it’ll stick around in categories where it actually improves the product (beer, sauces), but in things like wine, I’m not so sure.”
Thus, it will be up to the consumer to determine the fate of this market as an on-going segment or passing fad. For me, accounting for 20 million bottles provides credibility, being more like trend!
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I have enjoyed the Wood Family Vineyards “Against the Grain” Bourbon Barrel Aged Red Wine since its initial release. As a “wine writer/critic” I have received some flak that this is not a legitimate wine. That stated, my wife and I do enjoy it with a sear BBQ meat or by standalone in the winter months. We generally don’t drink “hard liquor” so this wine in the wintertime with a fire in the fireplace is a nice treat while watching a movie or show to leisurely sip.
Over the years, tasting and reviewing Wood Family Vineyards Bourbon Barrel Aged wines one key element is that these wines tend to morph in the bottle. Meaning that the Bourbon influence seems to get noticeably stronger when aged.
Another obvious trend is the mixture of varieties changes drastically as well as percentages. Below is the chronological formulas of this wine since 2018:
2018 – 28% Merlot, 28% Syrah, 14% Mourvèdre, 9% Petite Sirah, 7% Malbec, 7% Petit Verdot and 7% Cabernet Franc.
2019 – 40% Syrah, 25% Mourvedre, 25% Cabernet Franc and 10% Petit Verdot.
2020 – 54% Syrah, 36% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Petite Sirah.
2021 – 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Petit Verdot, 20% Malbec and 5% Petite Sirah.
2022 – 40% Cabernet Franc, 30% Petit Verdot, 25% Malbec and 5% Petite Sirah.
2023 – 75% Petit Verdot and 25% Merlot (the new release on October 12th, 2025).
The varieties are selected and blended by Rhonda Wood and her staff.
When discussing this year’s release being a big change from past releases with a strong percentage of Petit Verdot and mellowed by a touch of Merlot, Rhonda’s response was “Because we loved it! I tasted it just recently and thought it was the bomb. The bourbon influence will continue to increase”.
We tasted it a dinner party (see below) and then once again by itself to give a complete review. First on the eyes a beautiful color showing the stately and deep purple/magenta of Petit Verdot. Once the cork was popped and poured into the glass a beautiful boutique of violets/lavender and the aroma of Bourbon wafted into the olfactory senses. On the palate dark fruits, strong tannins and firm acidity greeted the imbiber. On the finish black pepper with smoky notes lingered. The Merlot played a part in calming down the strong brutish characteristics of Petit Verdot.
The grapes came from two vineyards, the Petit Verdot from Smith Ranch and the Merlot from OneOak Vineyard. The wine was aged 17 months in 28% new French oak and the balance being neutral plus 3 months in Bourbon barrels. It has 15.3% alcohol.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Knowing we were having this wine in advance, my wife primarily worked on a couple of Bourbon peppercorn sauces to apply to the filet mignon steaks. After two “trials” we selected one to go with a seared and BBQ’ed filet mignon cooked to medium rare. The sauce consisted of Worcestershire sauce, butter, maple syrup, crushed peppercorns and Bourbon.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Accompanied by roasted halved and seasoned red potatoes and roasted Brussel sprouts drizzled with aged and reduced Balsamic vinegar. Also, a fresh garden salad and French bread lightly toasted with butter, salt and garlic.
It was a very good meal and initially at the dinner all of us felt the Bourbon influence a bit lacking compared to previous vintages. That could have been due to sauce and peppercorns. The Petit Verdot was still a solid choice of wine with steak. However, as both Rhonda and I stated it, her Bourbon Barrel Aged wine does morph and will presumably do so with this vintage. But as previously noted when tried by itself two days later, the Bourbon influence was noted.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2023 Cuda Ridge Wines “Insel Family Vineyard” Carménère
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
This story is part two of three on the three different vineyards that Cuda Ridge Wines makes their Carménère from. The first story was on “Little Dog Vineyard” and this being “Insel Family Vineyard”. Due up next will be the story on Casa de Viñas Vineyards. Will be doing a comparison between the three Carménère wines by Cuda Ridge Wines.
A Brief History of Carménère
The history of the Carménère varietal is as fascinating as it is happenstance! It was once one of the grapes in the Médoc region of Bordeaux. It served a similar purpose as Petit Verdot does today – producing a deep red/purple ink on wines. It was one of the original six red grapes of Bordeaux. Carménère originates from the French word for crimson (carmin) which refers to the crimson color of the autumn foliage.
(Photo from Wikipedia)
When the Phylloxera plague hit in 1867 destroying most of the vineyards in Europe, many thought the Carménère grape was extinct. It wasn’t until 150 years later that it was discovered that Chile had preserved the Carménère grape thinking it was Merlot (from clippings planted from France). DNA confirmed that it was the missing 6th varietal of Bordeaux.
Carménère Today
Carménère grows mainly in Chile, specifically the Colchagua Valley, Rapel Valley and in the Maipo Province. It is also grown in the Veneto region of Italy, and recently several wineries in Mendocino, Livermore, Lodi, Napa and Calaveras are producing it, albeit in small quantities. Walla Walla, Washington also has some root stock growing in Carménère. In California only 111 acres are producing Carménère which accounts for .000075% of the red grape harvest. Interestingly while in California the red grape harvest was down 25%, Carménère harvest was up 10%. These numbers are from the USDA Grape Crush Report for 2024, their errata dated August 25, 2025.
Uniqueness of Carménère
Photo from Pat Spangler from Spangler Vineyards/Oregon of Carménère Vineyard
As a varietal, it has the deep ruby coloring and aromas of red fruits. Tannins are softer and milder than Cabernet Sauvignon, thus its use in blending to soften a strong Cabernet. The use is like the use of Merlot in formulating an enjoyable blend. Chile produces a 100% Carménère which has a cherry and fruity flavor but has traces of smoke and earthy notes with the inky coloration.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2023 Cuda Ridge Carménère Insel Family Vineyard wine comes from Pleasanton on the western portion of Livermore Valley AVA. The vineyard is flat with sandy loam and loam soil. It is 100% Insel Family Vineyard Carménère. On the eyes, a medium-heavy viscosity wine with a unique inviting deep purple/maroon coloration. On the nose, ripe Bing cherries greeted the senses. The palate is where this wine excelled. First the bright cherry taste was intense and concentrated. Ripe juicy plums and dark fruits then came forth with a hint of soft, dry and wet earthen tones (minerality and forest floor) with black tea and leather in the background. The earthen notes are generally found in Chilean Carménère but not found too often in California. The finish was long lasting with mocha and pepper finishing off the enjoyment with a hint of Eucalyptus and Cedar counterbalanced with vanilla.
The Insel Family Vineyards Carménère compared to the Little Dog Vineyard possesses a bit more tannins and acidity which should be considered in the food pairings. It still was enjoyable with caressing tannins on the palate.
The wine is aged in new French oak barrels (50%) and once used American oak (50%) for 17 months. The wine comes in at 13.3% alcohol and is sold at $50/bottle. Only 48 cases were made so this will go fast. It will be released on September 27th and 28th at a release party at Cuda Ridge Wines.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was specifically chosen to pair with the meal of Pork Tenderloin Tacos. Ingredients for the marinade included olive oil, fresh squeezed lime juice, honey, minced garlic cloves, cumin, chili powder, paprika, dried oregano, kosher salt and flour tortillas. The pork tenderloin was cut up into small strips and added to the marinade for 8 hours in the refrigerator. The pork tenderloin was cooked in an iron skillet on the stove top with about one half the marinade. On a separate burner, the Street Corn Avocado Salsa was prepared. It included grilled corn, Serrano peppers, diced red onion, minced garlic, fresh squeezed lime juice, olive oil, chopped cilantro, cumin and kosher salt. The tacos combined the three (shells, meat and street corn) and topped off with additional chopped cilantro to be served.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We purposely cut back on the chili powder and Serrano peppers so as not to overpower the wine. This was critical as the tacos and wine were paired wonderfully and I was glad to have less heat in the dish. An interesting note is that we had plenty of pork left over and the next night we used it in a pork taco salad, and it tasted even better!
A very good pairing and if more peppers and spices were to be used you might consider a Merlot wine.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Larry Dino, owner and winemaker at Cuda Ridge Wines, now has all six modern Bordeaux varietals available at the tasting room. The Carménère is the first locally produced wine varietal in the Livermore AVA.
One of the solid and simple marketing ideas that Larry devised is his coloring scheme: White label for his Reserve wines, Black label for his non-Bordeaux wines and purple label for his Bordeaux varietals. Obviously Carménère falls in his purple label.
His Carménère will surely garner many awards in the upcoming wine competitions. Truly a good price point given the uniqueness and scarcity of Carménère plantings in California and the only current Livermore grown Carménère being offered. Besides the Insel Family Vineyard Carménère he offers two other vineyards designated Carménère wines: Little Dog Vineyard and Casa de Viñas. All three Carménère wines will be released to the public on September 27th and 28th at the winery.
His awards for these delicious wines are as follows:
2020 Carménère Insel– Silver Medal, 2022 San Francisco Chronicle Competition
2020 Carménère Little Dog Vineyard – Wine Enthusiast, 92 points
2019 Carménère – Gold Medal, 2021 Orange County Fair
The list of awards for all his other wines is extensive and would direct you to his website to view the dozens and dozens of noteworthy awards.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
Cellar 13 2021 Albariño – A Great Choice with Sashimi
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
Photo from Cellar 13
Cellar 13 was founded by Darin Winton, who also happens to be one of the few Native American Winemakers in the United States. He proudly uses the Cherokee language for their two Bordeaux style blends. The Right Bank blend is named “Aliheliga” which means grateful, and the Left Bank blend is named “Tsogadu” the number 13. On the backside of these two labels is artwork from Cherokee artist John Balloue.
Darin retired in 2017 and was immediately hired as the Assistant Winemaker at 3 Steves Winery in Livermore, California. Here he learned about wine making from start to finish. He was able to produce his own wines under his label. He has used a few wineries in Livermore as an impromptu “custom crush operation”. Darin handles the winemaking, and Gail Henderson runs the operations and marketing side of the winery.
The goal of Cellar 13 is to establish high quality and award-winning wines using fruit from only the best Vineyards. To that point here is just a partial list of their most current award-winning wines in just a few short years:
CHARDONNAY
* 2017 Chardonnay – Double Gold – 2019 SF Chronicle Wine Competition
* 2018 Chardonnay – Gold Medal Winner 94 points – 2023 Sunset International Wine Competition
* 2019 Chardonnay – Best in Class Winner – 2021 Livermore Valley Uncorked Wine Competition (Best Chardonnay in Livermore), Gold Medal Winner – 2021 SF Chronicle Wine Competition
ALBARIÑO
* 2021 Albariño – Gold Medal Winner – 2023 Orange County Fair Commercial Wine Competition
* 2023 Albariño – Gold Medal Winner – 92 POINTS 2024 Orange County Fair Commercial Wine Competition. Gold Medal Winner – 92 POINTS Sunset International Wine Competition.
SAUVIGNON BLANC
* 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – Double Gold Medal Winner – 2025 SF Chronicle Wine Competition.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
* 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon – Double Gold Medal Winner 97 points – 2023 Sunset International Wine Competition, Double Gold Medal Winner – 2023 SF Chronicle Wine Competition. 2024 Orange County Fair Commercial Wine Competition, top 1% of awards.
BORDEAUX BLENDS
* 2019 Tsogadu (13 in Cherokee) – Left Bank Bordeaux Style Blend – 2019 Tsogadu (13 in Cherokee) – Left Bank Bordeaux Style Blend – 94 Points, Gold Medal Winner – 2024 California State Fair. Gold Medal Winner – 2023 Orange County Fair Commercial Wine Competition.
* 2019 Aliheliga (“Grateful” in Cherokee) – Right Bank Bordeaux Style Blend – Best in Class Winner – 2023 Livermore Valley Uncorked Wine Competition, Gold Medal Winner – 2022 SF Chronicle Wine Competition.
See their website for the complete listing of their awards.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Albariño or Alvarinho is a variety of white wine grape grown in Galicia (northwest Spain) and in Northwest Portugal (Monção and Melgaço). Albariño is the name for the grape in Galician. In Portugal it is known as Alvarinho, and sometimes as Cainho Branco. Around 93% of the world’s Albariño vines are planted in Spain and Portugal. In California for the 2024 harvest 9,784 tons were processed of Albariño grapes. That represents only .007% of the total white wine grapes for California! Approximately 81% of Albariño grapes come from San Joaquin County (AVA #11) and Yolo County (AVA #17), both AVA’s include portions of Sacramento County per the USDA Grape Crush Report for 2024.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Typical flavors of Albariño are lemon zest, grapefruit, honeydew, nectarines and salt and often finish with a slight bitter note or minerality note. I have noticed that American Albariño is crisp and with strong aromatic notes of stone fruits and honeysuckle.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
On the eyes Cellar 13 had a pale-yellow tinge. On the nose a strong aroma of honeysuckle flooded the olfactory senses. On the palate, stone fruit, honeydew melon with lemon zest completed the tasting experience. On the finish both minerality and a salinity note completed the tasting. A great wine for seafood and shellfish. The 2021 Albariño was a Gold Medal Winner at the 2023 Orange County Fair Commercial Competition. The grapes from Livermore which only contributes less than .0035% of the total California production of Albariño grapes.
This wine made my annual Best Wines Tasted for 2025, which comes out each December.
The current release is 2023 and goes for $29/bottle and is 13% in alcohol.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Selected this wine this evening for tuna sashimi picked up earlier in the day. Usually I go with Sauvignon Blanc but have enjoyed this wine with other seafood and decided to give it a go. It was a solid choice with its acidity and citrus notes with the Maguro. This gives me one additional wine to pair with my weekly sashimi meal.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2018 L’Autre Côte Cabernet Franc – Matured to Perfection!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We enjoyed this wine at our Friday Night Wine & Dine dinner the other night with a few friends.
Background on L’Autre Côte and Steven Kent Mirassou
It is not often that one sets out to turn the world upside down, but that is exactly what Steven Kent Mirassou is attempting with his newest label called L’Autre Côte meaning the “other coast”. The L’Autre Côte brand falls under The Lineage Collection. The goal is to make world acclaimed Cabernet Franc wines from two of Livermore’s well-known vineyards. He accomplished that in 2017 with his two versions of Cabernet Franc, one from Ghielmetti Vineyard and one from Sachau Vineyard. He made 50 cases. Both sold out almost immediately. Since that article was written ( https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2022/09/11/2018-lautre-cote-cabernet-franc-one-of-the-best-cabernet-francs-available/ ) he has received 96 points for his Ghielmetti Vineyard and 94 points for his Sachau Vineyard Cabernet Franc wine. Remember this was his inaugural release. He was just awarded 95 points from Wine Enthusiast for his 2018. His Lineage “Bordeaux Style” wine and his Cabernet Sauvignon were both rated 100 points and the only Livermore Valley wine to be rated so highly.
The 2018 L’Autre Côte continued with using two designated vineyard Cabernet Franc wines, but this year he combined the two together as it produced a higher quality Cabernet Franc. In Steven’s words “the wine is truly magical because their irreducible wholeness comes about as a function of their purity of fruit, balance of acidity and overt sexiness”.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Ghielmetti and Sachau Vineyards have been a long-time source for Steven’s wine be it Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc. The one block at Ghielmetti of Cabernet Franc Clone 332 is 3.7 acres in size. Sachau vineyard is six acres in size with a loamy soil. The 50/50 combination of the two (each aged separately) then, with 4% Cabernet Sauvignon added provided the best of both vineyards. On the eyes, a bright and dark reddish/purple coloring, with medium viscosity. On the nose a very fruit forward aroma of raspberry and blackberry fruits. On the palate, besides the fruit bursting with excitement, you are rewarded with chocolate, jasmine tea and minerality. The finish provides rounded and defined tannins without overt edges, giving one a silky landing. The finish is mid-lasting with a tinge of fruit sweetness, yet with subtle pyrazines in play. Using once used French barrels, this wine does not have a dominance of oak but rather allows the fruit to be showcased. The current vintage is 2022 and is listed at $125/bottle.
What is unique about this award-winning wine is its maturity over seven years to being elegant with complex levels of structure and yet silky smooth.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Had beautifully prepared Bruschetta as an appetizer with sliced toasted garlic bread, tomato, basil, garlic and drizzled with olive oil. The wine was paired beautifully with this appetizer.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up was a light entrée of four Italian braised meatballs with tomato, white wine, basil and fresh parmesan shavings. The wine and food pairing was once again spot on wonderful with this dish.
The group enjoyed sharing various other wines brought to dinner this evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Photo ©Michael Kelly
While this 2018 has absolutely matured to perfection, Steven and Beth Mirassou will be having some new and even more exciting Cabernet Franc wines coming out shortly! Read a previously published article: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2025/07/22/a-tasting-experience-and-conversation-with-steven-mirassou-at-steven-kent-winery/
Stay tuned……
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2023 Cuda Ridge Wines Carménère from Little Dog Vineyard
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A Brief History of Carménère
The history of the Carménère varietal is as fascinating as it is happenstance! It was once one of the grapes in the Médoc region of Bordeaux. It served a similar purpose as Petit Verdot does today – producing a deep red/purple ink on wines. It was one of the original six red grapes of Bordeaux. Carménère originates from the French word for crimson (carmin) which refers to the crimson color of the autumn foliage.
(Photo from Wikipedia)
When the Phylloxera plague hit in 1867 destroying most of the vineyards in Europe, many thought the Carménère grape was extinct. It wasn’t until 150 years later that it was discovered that Chile had preserved the Carménère grape thinking it was Merlot (from clippings planted from France). DNA confirmed that it was the missing 6th varietal of Bordeaux.
Carménère Today
Carménère grows mainly in Chile, specifically the Colchagua Valley, Rapel Valley and in the Maipo Province. It is also grown in the Veneto region of Italy, and recently several wineries in Mendocino, Livermore, Lodi, Napa and Calaveras are producing it, albeit in small quantities. Walla Walla, Washington also has some root stock growing in Carménère. In California only 111 acres are producing Carménère which accounts for .000075% of the red grape harvest. Interestingly while in California the red grape harvest was down 25%, Carménère harvest was up 10%. These numbers are from the USDA Grape Crush Report for 2024, their errata dated August 25, 2025.
Uniqueness of Carménère
Photo from Pat Spangler from Spangler Vineyareds/Oregon of Carménère Vineyard
As a varietal, it has the deep ruby coloring and aromas of red fruits. Tannins are softer and milder than Cabernet Sauvignon, thus its use in blending to soften a strong Cabernet. The use is like the use of Merlot in formulating an enjoyable blend. Chile produces a 100% Carménère which has a cherry and fruity flavor but has traces of smoke and earthy notes with the inky coloration.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2023 Cuda Ridge Carménère Little Dog Vineyard wine lived up to and exceeded the key characteristics of Carménère. It is 100% Little Dog Vineyard Carménère.On the eyes, a medium-heavy viscosity wine with a unique inviting deep purple/maroon coloration. On the nose, ripe Bing cherries greeted the senses. The palate is where this wine excelled. First the bright cherry taste was intense and concentrated. Plums and dark fruits then came forth with a hint of soft dry and wet earthen tones (minerality and forest floor) with black tea and leather in the background. The earthen notes are generally found in Chilean Carménère but not found too often in California. The finish was long lasting with mocha and pepper finishing off the enjoyment with a hint of Eucalyptus and Cedar.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Of special note was the smoothness of the finish, silky and smooth tannins like a tranquil lake. This is unique to the varietal/grapes and the winemaking in which Larry Dino produces this wine.
The wine is aged in French oak barrels (50%) and neutral American oak (50%) for 17 months. The wine comes in at 13.6% alcohol and is sold at $50/bottle. Only 48 cases were made so this will go fast. It was just recently released at a club member event. This wine immediately after tasting made my annual “Best Wines” tasted for 2025 (full list published in December).
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A twist to our normal food and wine pairing. Tasting this vintage for the first time, was unsure of its tasting profile and characteristics, being strong or mellow.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
So, two sauces were prepared this evening to go with the seared and BBQ’ed tri-tip steak. The first was an Argentina Chimichurri sauce consisting of fresh flat-leaf parsley, garlic, minced onion, distilled red wine vinegar, kosher salt, dried oregano, hot pepper flakes, ground black pepper and extra-virgin olive oil (the green sauce in the top of picture). The second sauce (on the bottom of picture) is generally used for a Caprese steak consisting of olive oil, minced garlic, Dijon mustard, kosher salt and black pepper. Accompanied by a garden salad with pepita seeds, diced tomatoes, green onions and sharp cheddar cheese. Long and short grain wild rice were also served.
With the wine possessing smooth and silky tannins, the Argentina Chimichurri sauce worked best with the grilled meat and provided a scrumptious food and wine pairing.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Larry Dino, owner and winemaker at Cuda Ridge Wines, now has all six modern Bordeaux varietals available at the tasting room. The Carménère is the first locally produced wine varietal in the Livermore AVA.
One of the solid and simple marketing ideas that Larry devised is his coloring scheme: White label for his Reserve wines, Black label for his non-Bordeaux wines and purple label for his Bordeaux varietals. Obviously Carménère falls in his purple label.
His Carménère will surely garner many awards in the upcoming wine competitions. Truly a good price point given the uniqueness and scarcity of Carménère plantings in California and the only current Livermore grown Carménère being offered. Besides the Little Dog Vineyard Carménère he offers two other vineyards designated Carménère wines: Insel Family Vineyard and Casa de Viñas. These other two will have stories written on them shortly. These two special Carménère wines will be released to the public on September 27th.
His awards for these delicious wines are as follows:
2020 Carménère Insel– Silver Medal, 2022 San Francisco Chronicle Competition
2020 Carménère Little Dog Vineyard – Wine Enthusiast, 92 points
2019 Carménère – Gold Medal, 2021 Orange County Fair
The list of awards for all his other wines is extensive and would direct you to his website to view the dozens and dozens of noteworthy awards.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly