2020 Hindsight Sauvignon Blanc With Unique Ora Salmon from New Zealand
Last night our Friday Night Wine & Dine group ate at Verona18 restaurant at The Golf Club Copper Valley. This is still their “soft opening” but with a more extensive menu mimicking their Modesto restaurant, Verona Cucina Italiana.
The meal started off with a Caprese Salad. Fresh tomatoes (Beefsteak?), fresh mozzarella, basil, Kalamata olives, olive oil and with a balsamic glaze. Perhaps one of the best I have ever tasted! Paired with a Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo Riserva to cut through tomatoes and olive oil. Perfectly paired. The wine is especially tasty but I want to clear up a common misconception. Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo and Montepulicano are two entire different wines. Montepulicano d’ Abruzzo is a totally unique and wonderful wine from the Abruzzo region in east-central Italy and not to be confused with the Montepulicano which is mainly Sangiovese grapes from Tuscany. Colline Teramane became a DOCG region (denomianazione di Origine Contraollata Garantita) in 2003. Essential by being a DOCG vs DOC, they must follow stricter guidelines in producing their wine. Only four provinces can produce this wine. The wine must be 90% Montepulicano with only 10% being Sangiovese grapes.
This wine is deeply colored inky red/purple with pepper spices notes. Often it is called “rustic”. In general, it is “aromatic, tannic and with low acidity”. It is aged in oak for twenty-four months. Key flavors of earthiness, blackberries and prevalent. Often it is also beholds sweeter tannins and is appropriately paired with hot & spicy peppers and pork dishes. Its ability to age in the cellar is up to 20 years and the price point can range from $8 to $200+. A delightful treat which is often overlooked and confused with the lighter Montepulicano from Tuscany. As the winemaker Antonio Lamona states “I want to make wines that are pleasing to the body and the spirit”. For the typical California wine drinker you will pleased if you get a nice bottle of Montepulicano d’ Abruzzo.
Looking at the menu in advance, I had decided on the Grilled Salmone. It was an Ora King salmon, with fresh herbs, olive oil served over saffron risotto. Ora King salmon is not commonly found so here is a quick background. First it is the only saltwater farmed salmon given best choice ranking. I am generally opposed to any “farmed fish” but this is very different. There are a variety of reasons that Ora King Salmon should be your #1 choice in farm raised salmon: healthy feed and fish growth, location and farming techniques, as well as a unique skin that is uncommon to anywhere else in the world. Critics believe the best of the best salmon in the world actually is farm raised in New Zealand. This special king salmon has been described as the “Wagyu of the Sea” because the taste of this fish compares to no other. From the crystal clear waters flowing from Te Waikoropupū Springs in Takaka, to the pure and isolated sea waters of the Marlborough Sounds. Several 3 Star Michelin restaurants have served this fish including The French Laundry in Yountville, California (Napa Valley). After tasting it last night I have to agree this was outstanding.
This was paired with a 2020 Hindsight Sauvignon Blanc from Napa Valley. Previously I have written about the Hindsight Winery in Calistoga and their excellent red wines, especially their Cabernet Sauvignon’s. About 10 months ago their long time winemaker, Jac Cole retired. Now some excellent news—they hired Michael Weis, who was the head winemaker at Groth. He is well known for making spectacular wines and I believe he received 100 points from Wine Spectator for one of his Sauvignon Blanc vintages. Additional reading on the winery and ownership can be found at:
Their inaugural Sauvignon Blanc release under Michael Weis was handcrafted with an artisan touch. First on the eyes it is a golden straw color and medium viscosity. On the nose, floral aromas waft into the senses, along with green apple which is most prominent. On the palate, citrus accents of lime and lemon come into play and are kept in check with flavor but not overpowering. The finish provides a mouthful feeling of a much heavier wine rather than a “light Sauvignon Blanc”. This is most likely due to the addition of nine percent Viognier. This also helps lower the acidity. This wine goes for only $25.99! I literally felt while eating the salmon with this wine, I had achieved a state of Nirvana!
The group also had several other wines to go mainly with Italian pasta dishes and all were absolutely solid.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwines.com
http://www.hindsightwines.com/
https://www.coppervalleygolf.com/homepage/current-operations
Love Cork Screw Wines – The Road Less Traveled
Chrishon Lampley is a négociant and owner of Love Cork Screw and Lampley Reserve Wines. Firstly, what is a négociant? A négociant is a French word for a wine merchant or wholesaler. More specifically one who buys grapes, grape juice or partially fermented or finished wine from others and sells the wine produced under their name/label. Thus Chrishon does not own a winery or vineyards and yet has sold over one million bottles of her wine!
Now about the “road less traveled and that has made all the difference” as Robert Frost stated in his poem. Her less traveled road contains the following elements: target marketing, keen understanding of developing wine consumers, family/friends and a modicum of light heartedness.
Target Marketing
Many “sophisticated wineries” are all chasing the $78.3 billion USA market with many high end offering. Chrishon has targeted both the grocery store consumer and the developing “alphabet consumers” (Gen X, Gen Y, Gen Z). In a lengthy conversation, her insight to the grocery consumer is based on the following priorities: Label, Price and Quality. She has an answer for each. The label I will discuss later, but the price issue, is something she attacked head on. She wants the consumer in her words “to pull a $20 bill out of their pocket and buy her wine”. To this end, her Love Cork Screw Wine portfolio comprises eight varietal wines with over half under twenty dollars. Her labels are light hearted, not to intimidate the grocery store shopper. The names of the wines for example are “Head Over Heels” (Riesling), “We’re Moving On Up” (Cabernet Sauvignon), “Be The Light” (Sauvignon Blanc), “Good Times Good Friends” (Pinot Grigio), etc. They are eye catching phrases and friendly/light hearted when going down the grocery isle. They also serve as gifts for a promotion, moving to a new home, a party and other events. Her wines can be found at Target Stores, Walmart, Total Wines and many other locations. One of her creative marketing tactics is putting the nutritional and serving information on the back of the wine bottle. This is highly regarded by the “alphabet consumers” wanting to know this type of information.
Quality
As a négociant she can pick and choose the wine varietals to suit her market. One of the key markets is the mid-west. Her assessment of this market is for a “sweeter palate”. She has wines from Fenn Valley in northern Michigan peninsula (Concord, Riesling, Pinot Grigio), Summerland Wine Brands in Buellton, California (Cabernet Sauvignon) and Healdsburg, California (Sparkling). She is currently working with a winery in Chile on a Sauvignon Blanc.
Lampley Reserve
I was sent a bottle in advance of our conversation. My “left brain” was in a bit of shock that someone was producing a Demi-Sec sweet sparkling wine. A quick recap of Champagne/Sparkling residual sugar levels. First Brut Champagne is 0-12 grams/per liter sugar level and Demi-Sec is 32-50 grams/per liter. The market in the USA is definitely a Brut or drier level as evidenced by 97% of all Champagne imported is Brut from France. Prosecco follows a similar guideline. Again this is where Chrishon follows the road less traveled and is targeting the “alphabet generations” and grocery store novices. However as stated earlier, she is keen on family and friends. Adorning the label of her second and higher end wine label Lampley Reserve is a picture of her mother when she was twenty. Chrishon’s mother likes a sweet sparkling wine, so this first varietal in the series is to honor her mid-eighties mother! It is comprised of 53% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 2% Pinot Meunier grapes with a light alcohol level of 12.17%. Only 432 cases were produced. While not a big fan of demi-sec sparkling or Champagne, it was difficult to assess the quality, but I am not part of Chrishon targeted market.
Conclusion
However, her success cannot be denied as she has sold over 1,000,000 bottles of wine since starting in 2013. Her target marketing (demographics, geography, price point, label design) and much more has put Chrishon on the map and makes her a force to be taken seriously. Her Lampley Reserve line of wines is just launching and she is doing a refresh on her Love Cork Screw labels in Q3 2022. She is not finished by any means and discussed briefly a plan to import wines from South Africa. She described her wines as being in a mood and one of her tag lines sums up appropriately “enjoy it, drink it, don’t think it”. Her road less traveled is wide open with her focus, creativity, attitude and bringing new wine lovers into the fold.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.lovecorkscrew.com/
For more on Chrishon Lampley visit her TEDx talk at https://lovecorkscrew.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/How-Success-Screwed-Me-Chrishon-Lampley-TEDxGrandBoulevard.mp4?_=1
Why I Love and Hate Social Media – My Nightmare
This may be a strange title, but it perfectly sums the diabolical relationship with all forms of current social media (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, etc.). Now this may seems a bit odd considering my daily and numerous posts on Social Media. This relationship of love/hate is much more than a passing fad, as I have had these feelings for years trying to understand and comprehend the significance and impact of social media.
So let’s start off on a positive note before my rant or negativity. Social media allows ones to connect with like-minded folks on a variety of subjects. In my case, wine, wine education, the wine industry and foods to pair with wines. I would not have the reach and diversity in my “social family” if it were not for the various forms of social media. But how deep that impact and connection is based on individuality of the audience not a “total number of readers”.
Now the dissatisfaction with social media. In Alan Toffler’s FUTURE SHOCK, published in 1970, he stated “minimum involvement is precisely what the user of the throwaway society gets for his money”. So a percentage of well-intended readers are interested a specific subject, their interest wanes with the amount of “involvement” or connecting with the author. If they connect, the reader most likely will follow that author. If something is askew, the reader becomes lost or disheartened with thought, the article is summarily dismissed. The baby is thrown out with the bathwater. Toffler also stated that in our society becoming “even faster pace we are headed towards further and faster cognitive overstimulation”. I think this a solid reason that a five-ten second clip is gaining popularity as it requires so little involvement of thought and time. The content if more than a picture, it is just the medium to entice the reader to the article.
Another great quote is by Os Guinness, in his book The DUST OF DEATH, states “the printed word has ruined the intellect. It has given fools and fiends the same power as wise men and saints. It has made a jumble of the mind, a burlesque of reason. No one any longer knows how to think clearly and cognitively to a finish”. Also the statement appropriately sums up where our culture is today with Os’s comment “the option now is not one-dimensional uniformity but multi-dimensional over choice”. We are facing paralysis of thought and action due to so much abundance of choice. So when a blogger states sulfates are ok and the next wine writer states sulfates are damaging it causes confusion and halts the cognitive process except for a few who venture forth to do research and ferret out a conclusion.
Now add today with new social media mediums constantly changing and emerging, TikTok, Instagram and iTunes for example. The printed word is being swallowed up for clips and five-ten second bits of information. While it is always interesting to see a traffic accident (provided no one is seriously hurt), an apparent living tree actually being a person scaring pedestrians, cars sliding down an icy hill, etc., what is the message? It appears that Instagram, TikTok, etc., are really a passing opium for the one dimensional non-thinking masses. While a picture may we worth a thousand words, it really only provokes a thumbs up or down, without a thorough comprehension or investigation of intent or reasonableness.
In 1847 Soren Kierkegaard stated “reflections …… must not so much move, mollify, reassure, persuade as awaken and provoke men and sharpen thought”.
Yet here we are today being entertained to death via our cellphones clinched in hand. Halford Luccok in one of my favorite quotes once said, “We are going to have eyes the size of cantaloupes and brains the size of peas”.
So when an author, blogger communicates on a subject, they are asking for your consideration of the content and an informed response. A response not necessarily of agreement but of a mindful retort. Giving just a thumbs up, is essentially a “non-event”. Engagement of thought is the underlying request not an emoji.
So there I have shared just a skosh of my love and hate relationship with social media with you the readership. It is the best and worst of our collective communication systems today. So living with it is paramount, but loving it may not necessarily bring us to Nirvana.
Now back to sipping some enjoyable wine…………
Slainte,
Michael
Jeff Runquist Wines 2020 Cabernet Franc – Gold Medal and Best of Class Winner at 3rd Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition & Celebration
At the 2022, Cabernet Franc Wine Competition and Celebration, Jeff Runquist Wines 2020 Cabernet Franc took a Gold Medal and Best of Class from the Professional Judges. This really is no surprise as Jeff Runquist at the previous Cabernet Franc competitions has received Silver and Gold Medals for prior vintages! The judges at the S.F. Chronicle also awarded him Best of Class for his 2020 Cabernet Franc. The cream always rises to the top!
Those not familiar with Jeff Runquist Wines, they are located at 10776 Shenandoah Road in Plymouth, Amador, California. Jeff makes some 41 wines from 25 varieties of grapes. The winery was voted as “2021 Winery of the Year” by Dan Berger’s International Wine Competition.
Jeff and his wife Margie, opened their winery in 2011, Jeff Runquist Wines in Amador. I had previously done various stories on Jeff Runquist Wines and one which gives a brief background on the winery and man, see: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2017/05/09/jeff-runquist-wines/ .
The Wine – 2020 Cabernet Franc
On the eyes a beautiful infusion of purple and garnet colors and a medium body. On the nose, aromas of vanilla, smoke and light oak fill the senses. On the palate, raspberries, strawberries and minerality fill but do not with overwhelm tastes. Soft tannins and a smooth finish with a hint of cocoa makes this wine an enjoyable drinking wine with or without food. Alcohol is 15.2%. It was released in November 2021 and is now sold out! The price was $26/bottle and 540 cases were produced. But don’t despair, the 2021 will be released in November of 2022.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Paired with an American summer cuisine of a seared BBQ burger, homemade potato salad and baked beans. Accompanied with a fresh garden salad with white balsamic dressing. A tasty meal and the wine was so pleasant with the meal.
Dallas legendary football coach Tom Landry once stated, “The secret to winning is constant, consistent management”. Details and more details. Jeff Runquist continues to impress wine aficionados’ with his consistent and high quality wines at every wine competition he enters. Here is just a small sampling of his recent awards besides his International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition and Celebration:
JEFF RUNQUIST WINES – RECENT WINE COMPETITION RESULTS
2022 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition
BEST OF CLASS
2020 Cabernet Franc, Salman Vineyard, Clarksburg
2019 Petite Sirah, Salman Vineyard, Clarksburg
2020 Primitivo, Nostro Vino Vineyard, Amador County
2020 Tempranillo, Liberty Oaks Vineyard, Lodi
DOUBLE GOLD MEDAL
2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Three Way Vineyard, Paso Robles
2019 Petite Sirah, Salman Vineyard, Clarksburg
2020 Zinfandel, Massoni Ranch, Amador County
2019 Zinfandel, Peroni Ranch, Amador County
GOLD MEDAL
2019 Paso Robles Lagrein French Camp Vineyard
2019 Barbera Reserve, Amador County
2020 Barbera, Cooper Vineyard, Amador County
2020 Dolcetto, Amador County
2020 Grenache, Three Way Vineyard, Paso Robles
2019 Petit Verdot, San Joaquin County
2020 1448, California
2020 Viognier, River Junction
2019 Zinfandel, Nostro Vino Vineyard, Amador County
2021 Dan Berger’s International Wine Competition
BEST OF SHOW RED, BEST OF CLASS, TRIPLE GOLD
2019 “R” Lagrein, Paso Robles
BEST OF CLASS, TRIPLE GOLD
2019 “R” Reserve Barbera, Sierra Foothills
TRIPLE GOLD
2020 “R” Dolcetto, Sierra Foothills, Amador County
BEST OF CLASS, GOLD MEDAL
2016 “R” Sangiovese, “The Hill,” Amador County
GOLD MEDAL
2019 “R” Tempranillo, Shake Ridge Ranch, Amador County
2019 “R” Barbera, Amador County
2019 “R” Reserve Petit Verdot, Damir Ranch, Stanislaus County
He continues to get his excellent wines validated over and over again!
Slainte,
Michael
2019 Wood Family Vineyards Petit Verdot – Dark, Luscious and Bold
Background
First, what is Petit Verdot? The literal translation is “little green one”. This is because it is a late ripening grape from the Bordeaux region in France. It is a commonly used grape in blending, usually in small amounts to add color, tannin, structure and herbaceous notes of violet and sage. Today it is common to see 2% to no more than 10% in many Cabernet Sauvignon’s and other wines. More recently Petit Verdot is being seen as a 100% bottled wine.
The Winery
Rhonda Wood, winemaker at Wood Family Vineyards, makes some exceptional wines from Livermore, California. The background on the winery can be found in another story at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2021/11/06/2018-wood-family-vineyards-chardonnay/
Rhonda and the family winery are small in comparison to some of Livermore’s known name wineries but have been regarded for years as one of the top-quality wine producers.
From high in the sky to down to earth wines!! Yes Rhonda Wood, winemaker/owner of Wood Family Vineyards used to fly planes (US Airways) but now can be found in the vineyards tending vines. She and husband Michael (with their two sons), have a winery in eastern Livermore. Rhonda started making wine in 1996. Besides sourcing wine on their property, they have 17 specific vineyards which are manicured to their specifications throughout Livermore’s ideal climate.
The Wine
While I have written and very much enjoyed all of Rhonda wines, I tasted the 2019 Petit Verdot about a month ago at her winery in Livermore. I was taken back and savored every sip so much I walked out with a case of Petit Verdot! First on the eyes this is a cavernous dark wine, almost black. It possesses a medium heavy viscosity when swirling in the glass. On the nose intense aromas of red (cherry), black fruits (plums) and violets greet you. On the palate, the predominant trait are chewy cherries, but not sweet! Followed by leather, tobacco, anise and a slight vanilla quality. The finish was dry and the tannins were present but not “pointy”. The winery used 25% new French oak, 25% one-time used French oak and 50% twice used French oak. The 2019 release sells for $34/bottle.
This wine is “so delicious” and strong, we simply had it as an after-dinner wine. Previously, we paired it with a roast beef, and it was a great combination.
I am certainly pleased to have more 2019 Wood Family Vineyards Petit Verdot in the cellar!
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Villa Vallecito Vineyards Cabernet Franc Named Best of Class and Best of Show by the Professional Judges at the 3rd Annual Cabernet Franc Wine Competition and Celebration
This was Villa Vallecito Vineyards first time entering the competition. Their tasting room is located at 263 Main Street in Murphys, California. I had the privilege to taste their 2018 Cabernet Franc wine about one year ago and mentioned to Ghee Hagedorn/owner, she had something very special in her Cabernet Franc. Literally on the last day of registration, she entered this year’s competition! I know she was extremely excited when her wine was announced. Being the Best of Show takes in all the wine categories (5) based on price including the last category $101 and up. She won Best of Class in the $31 to $50 range and the 2019 Cabernet Franc goes for $45/bottle.
Key is that this is a blind tasting competition using the Danish methodology of getting a consensus from the judging panel. A very special feat indeed!
The wine comes from their vineyard located in Calaveras County. Villa Vallecito Vineyards sits up on a valley overlooking New Melones Lake. The cooling breezes off the lake are credited with helping the vineyards.
A key point not to be lost is that the five Professional Judges hailed from various regions and variety in their backgrounds. One is a wine educator/judge/home winemaker, another a winemaker for seven Napa Valley wineries, one a Sonoma County/Lodi winemaker for several wineries, and two are WSET graduates with distinction. This is the first time a Calaveras winery has won Best of Show for their Cabernet Franc from the Professional Judges. Previous winners were from Napa Valley (2017 Diamond Mountain Vineyard) and Paso Robles (2016 Dracaena Wines).
This was the only wine to win both a Double Gold Medal from the Professional Judges and a Gold Medal from the People’s Choice Judges!
Background
Ghee Sanchez-Hagedorn considers herself blessed and fortunate. Her parents were migrant farm workers in Healdsburg, California. She was the 10th child of 15! She has gone from playing in vineyards to owning a beautiful vineyard and winery in Calaveras County. She freely admits to not being a trained “wine or winery owner” but she more than makes up in enthusiasm, determination, smarts and engaging people skills. A virtual force to be reckoned with. She and her husband, Alan Hagedorn (CFO and official quality control taster), started out in 2001 planting some very rough terrain with the help of a vineyard manager. For approximately 5 years until 2010, they sold the grapes to a variety of wineries in Northern California. Then in 2010, they took the next step to make their own wine and hired Nathan Vader, graduate of UC Davis as their winemaker. Nathan also has his own award winning winery, Vina Moda in Murphys. Today they produce approximately 1800 to 2000 cases a year. Quality wine is their motto from sorting three times to finding the right barrels.
Recently at the 2022 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, they won the following awards:
*Best of Class, 2017 Syrah
*Double Gold for 2018 Barbera, 2018 Syrah and 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon
*Gold for their 2018 Syrah Reserve
*Silver for their 2019 Cabernet Franc and 2019 Sagrantino
During the Wine Competition Event, I was not able to taste the wine, so I took a drive up to Murphys and met with Ghee. We sat in the quaint tasting room discussing the history of the vineyards and winery. We also tasted the 2019 Cabernet Franc. Here a beautiful purplish hue surround the glass, with a medium heavy viscosity. On the nose soft new leather, pepper and raspberry wafted into the senses. Secondary flavors of dried fruit and bramble, coupled with an “earthiness (rich soil & gravel)” highlighted the taste and the soft finish. The wine was not originally scheduled to be released until the fall, but with these recent awards, they are going to release right away. Only 100 cases of the wine were produced, between club members and the general public, it will go quickly.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Taking home the remaining open bottle of Cabernet Franc, we seared some specially cut (thick) Filet Mignon from a local market. Topped with a dollop of blue cheese-chive butter and accompanied with a Russet baked potato and asparagus. The wine was perfectly matched to be enjoyed with meat and the blue cheese topping.
I mistakenly thought about 30 minutes would be sufficient to get the missing information from Ghee to finish this story! After 2 ½ hours we finally realized we needed to stop but believe our conversation could have lasted for days. I can’t wait for my next visit and to taste some of her other wines.
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Dracaena Wines Cabernet Franc Named Best of Class and Best of Show by the People’s Judges at the 3rd Annual Cabernet Franc Wine Competition and Celebration
It is often stated that “success doesn’t come from what you do occasionally, it come from what you do consistently”. No truer words sum up what Dracaena Cabernet Franc has done over the last three years. The first year of the Cabernet Franc Wine Competition, Dracaena won Best of Show (overall) by the Professional Judges. Repeating this performance in April 2022, Dracaena just won Best of Class ($31 to $50) from the People’s Choice Judges and Best of Show! As a reminder this is a blind tasting competition. The Professional Judges awarded them a Silver Medal.
The wine comes from the Plummer Vineyard in San Luis Obispo County. Dracaena Wines is located in Paso Robles. The current price is $34 on their website, and it is described as being filled with “aromas of dark cherry, baking spice and plum. The long finish is framed by structure tannins thanks to the added eight percent of West Side Paso Petit Verdot”. A key point not to be lost is that the five People’s Judges hailed from various regions such as San Ramon/Copper Valley, Milpitas/Valley Springs, San Jose/Copper Valley, Napa/Angels Camp and Sunnyvale/Fresno. So not a single judge was from Paso Robles and yet bestowed on them these high marks.
What makes this achievement even more grand is that Dracaena Wines only made 170 cases of their 2019 Cabernet Franc and their total production is 400 cases (includes Chenin Blanc, Rose and a Cabernet Franc Reserve). Previously I wrote a story comparing Dracaena as a David verses Goliath story.
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2020/01/14/dracaena-wines-a-david-verses-goliath-story/
Michael & Lori Budd were the force behind getting December 4th on the calendar as International Cabernet Franc Day. Lori, besides having a food science background and a graduate degree from UC Davis in the winemaking program, is a published author, award winning blog writer and podcast producer/host for Exploring the Wine Glass. Lori also gave a keynote speech about how Cabernet Franc has grown out of the shadow of its progeny at the Winemaker’s Dinner held during the Cabernet Franc Celebration. Below is quick wrap up on the Winemaker’s Dinner featuring Lori Budd and a story on the Wine Tasting and Appetizer Event which both Lori and Michael Budd poured at their booth.
This small boutique winery is definitely getting noticed with winning a Gold Medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition for their 2019 Cabernet Franc. They have also won at the 2022 Los Angeles Invitational Wine and Spirits Challenge a Gold Medal and Best of Show for their Chenin Blanc.
Sláinte,
Michael
2017 Gossamer Cellars, Alicante Bouschet
What is Alicante Bouschet?
First this grape has both a red skin and red flesh, known as teinturier. Henri Bouschet, a French botanist, created it when he crossed Grenache with Petit Bouschet in 1866. Alicante Bouschet was planted heavily during prohibition in California and exported to the east coast. The dark and intense skins made it resistant to rot while being transported. The deep dark color allowed the wine to be “cut down” (diluted) without noticing.
The grape is the 12th most planted red grape in France and found mostly in Languedoc, Provence and Cognac regions. In California the grape was and still is popular among home winemakers and grown in Napa, Sonoma, Madera and Calaveras counties. Other areas growing this varietal are Algeria, Israel and central Italy. In Spain, Alicante Bouschet is called Garnacha Tintorera and is intensely black with one of the heaviest viscosity I have experienced. FYI- Alaya Tierra is one of my favorite producers in Spain of this wine.
Gossamer Cellars – The Winery
Gossamer Cellars in Murphys, California is unique in so many wonderful ways. Gossamer’s owners, Gary and Sue Grant are unique in their wine making endeavors. Gary has always wanted to make every wine in the De Long Grape Varietal Table. This unique approach is wide rather than deep, which provides the wine consumer with just about everything to taste and imagine. Just a quick listing of some of the wines he has produced are Torrontes, Nebbiolo, Teroldego, Negroamaro, Alicante, Treixadura, Pinotage, Tannat and the list goes on. Gary subscribes to the saying proudly displayed on the chalkboard in his quaint tasting room “Adventure may hurt you, but monotony will kill you”- Anonymous. I personally appreciate and applaud Gary’s quest in educating and bringing wines to the consumer which would normally be obscure.
The Wine, 2017 Alicante Bouschet
This 2017 Alicante Bouschet is a strong and hearty wine, completely opposite any debutante or wimpy Rose! This is a muscular and gnarly wine only for those completely sold on intense flavors. First on the eyes in the glass, it is literally blackish in color and with a heavy viscosity. On the nose aromas of black cherry and black pepper waft into the sense. In the palate, blackberry, black plum and sweet pipe tobacco are the primary tastes. Secondary flavors of blueberries and smokiness come across. The finish is long with gritty tannins and a dryness. The roof of the mouth and teeth shout out intense tannins and deep colored fruits, reminding you of an old world wine but it is only 5 years old!
Gary gets the grapes from a recent relationship with Dutchman Vineyards located in Ripon (central valley). It is only 4 acres and planted in 2010 and is one remarkable source for these grapes. Gossamer only produced about 100 cases of Alicante Bouschet. Gary kept the 2017 in barrel for 24 months and used 25% new French oak barrels. At $28/bottle this is a fantastic price point in trying an often overlooked, but enjoyable red wine.
The Food and Wine Pairing
This was paired with a meat ravioli and red sauce of mushrooms and garlic. The sauce had a bit of sweet tomato taste and the wine with its acidity and tannins, cut through it perfectly. Accompanying the raviolis were sourdough French bread and a fresh Cesar salad. One great and harmonious meal.
Remember the saying on his chalk board as it constantly rings true “Adventure may hurt you, but monotony will kill you”. Expand your horizons and try this 2017 Alicante Bouschet.
Sláinte,
Michael
Cabernet Franc Wine Competition and Celebration – Winemaker’s Dinner
The third and final event for the two-day Cabernet Franc Celebration was the winemaker’s dinner for 80 people. This featured three different winemakers’ chosen back in September (2021) to participate in this event. The idea was to show three regions (Paso Robles, Livermore Valley and Napa Valley). Each winery/winemaker would present an 8–10 minute keynote speech on their “love affair or experience” with Cabernet Franc. Then the winners announced from the 2022 Wine Competition before sitting down for a gourmet dinner in the Grandview Room at The Golf Club at Copper Valley.
The evening started off with magnificently arranged tables of eight by the Vine18 staff. Additional bottles of wines from the competition were placed on each table for the guest’s enjoyment prior to the start of the evening.
First up was Lori Budd of Dracaena Wines a small boutique winery in Paso Robles, California. She and her husband, Michael were the force behind getting December 4th on the calendar as International Cabernet Franc Day. Lori besides having a food science background and a graduate degree from UC Davis in the winemaking program, is a published author, award winning blog writer and podcast producer/host for Exploring the Wine Glass. Her keynote speech was how Cabernet Franc has grown out of the shadow of its progeny. She also touched upon the amount of Cabernet Franc produced today and the relationship to Cabernet Sauvignon.
The next speaker was the dynamic and delightful Steven Kent Mirassou from his latest label L’Autre Côte, specifically showcasing Cabernet Franc. Steven is the 6th generation winemaker from the first family of American Wine and made his first vintage of Cabernet Franc in 2006 from Livermore, California. His Bordeaux style wine, the Lineage Collection was the first 100 point wine scored from Livermore Valley. He has since received his second 100 point score on his Steven Kent Winery label for a Cabernet Sauvignon. In 2017 Steven created L’Autre Cote, a wine brand/label devoted exclusively to the production of Cabernet Franc. His keynote speech was titled, “Finding Home: Why the Livermore Valley Should Become Cabernet Franc’s New Spiritual Center”.
The final speaker was Pam Starr of Crocker & Starr Winery located in St Helena (Napa Valley), California. Pam is the co-owner, manager and winemaker at Crocker & Starr. Pam comes from a rich pedigree of winemakers before starting the winery in 1997 with Charlie Crocker. Her special skill of passion and dedication are self-evident especially with her inaugural label launch of Cabernet Franc. Pam also makes distinctive Bordeaux style wines from the estate. Her keynote speech was titled “The non-fruitedness of Cabernet Franc Wine”.
After these speeches concluded, the announcement of the previous day’s Best of Class and Best of Show were made public. The irony for the evening is that two wines featured at the dinner won Best of Class (Dracaena and L’Autre Côte) and Dracaena winning Best of Show from the Wine Competition (a blind tasting!).
The evening started off with Dracaena Cabernet Franc from Paso Robles with a smoked pork belly served with parsnip puree, marble fingerling chips and plum cassis chutney. The 2019 Cabernet Franc was produced with 92% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot.
The second course was L’Autre Côte from Livermore Valley paired with a Roquefort infused with raspberries, blackberries and apricot, wrapped in a puff pastry with a jasmine tea anglaise. The 2018 Cabernet Franc is 100% Cabernet Franc.
An intermezzo sorbet was then served to cleanse the palate.
The third course was Crocker & Starr 2018 A.V.A. Cabernet Franc Estate Blend from Napa Valley. This consisted of 70% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec, 10% Petit Verdot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. This unique characteristic wine was paired with a mole chuck Wagyu beef, served with crispy plantains and a cardamom radish slaw.
We had originally looked for a Cabernet Franc Blanc but could not find one that was up to the quality of this event. Thus, we finished off the evening with a non-Cabernet Franc, but certainly one of the most creative dishes for dessert. Rhonda Wood provided her award winning Wood Family Chardonnay which was paired with an apple cinnamon Crème Brûlée topped with pear sorbet and a macadamia nut crumble. Perhaps unique but a totally outstanding food/wine pairing.
Executive Chef Albert Sandoval provided and showcased his culinary skills which left the sold-out crowd amazed. Between two of dishes, he quickly ran out from the kitchen to describe the food and wine pairing with the winemakers. Two others from the club deserve kudos, Cindy Acre and Christina Germolus for their tireless effort in arranging the room and attention to details not just for this evening but for the entire two-day event.
It was truly a unique evening pairing four winemakers with diverse and scrumptious foods and their excellent wines. A very enjoyable and noteworthy meal.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.lautrecotecabfranc.com/
Wine Tasting & Appetizers at the 3rd Annual Cabernet Franc Celebration
The second event at the International Cabernet Franc Celebration and Wine Competition was held at the Grandview Room at The Golf Club at Copper Valley, Copperopolis, California. A bright and beautiful day in the Sierra foothills hosted all the guests. The Tasting & Appetizers event was held just after the Wine Competition, in the late afternoon/early evening tasting for eight previous year’s winners. The wineries were invited to pour their Cabernet Franc’s (current vintage) which they had previously won Gold or Double Gold Medals, Best of Class or Best of Show. Each winery had on their table a display with the left side describing their Cabernet Franc and the right side providing information on their winery, offering, club membership, etc. Each winery was allowed to have “other stash wines” under their tables but not on the table should someone desire something other than a Cabernet Franc! AVA’s represented were Paso Robles, Arroyo Seco, Livermore Valley and Napa Valley. This allowed guests to taste excellent Cabernet Franc’s from four entirely different terroirs to find their ideal wine and experience different regions all at the same venue.
Vine18 restaurant provide a twelve foot spread of delicious appetizers for the guests to enjoy. The constant replenishing of appetizers kept the guest tasting with the various wines.
Here were the wineries and how they scored this year from the two sets of judges, Professional Judges and People’s Choice Judges.
At first table were Lori and Michael Budd of Dracaena Wines from Paso Robles, California. As it turns out, this year Dracaena Wines 2019 Cabernet Franc won Silver from the Professional Judges and Double Gold, Best of Class and Best of Show from the People’s Choice Judges. Their smiling faces were a precursor to their winning all those awards (announced the day after this event!).
Next up was Larry Dino, winemaker/owner of Cuda Ridge Wines from Livermore, California. Larry this year was pouring his 2019 Cabernet Franc and received a Silver Medal from the Professional Judges and a Gold Medal from the People’s Choice Judges. Now his smile has a background story as in just four days from this pouring his daughter was getting married. He left first thing the next morning. Thanks, Larry, for making this event, especially with so much going on!
As guests continued throughout the room, they came to Steven Kent Mirassou’s newest label, L’Autre Côte Cabernet Franc. This is the second year of production of this wine/label, showcasing only Cabernet Franc. Shown with his assistant winemaker Beth Refsnider. The Professional Judges awarded the 2018 L’Autre Côte a Gold Medal and Best of Class! Nice going Steven!
Up next was Keith Prather from Shale Canyon making their wines from Arroyo Seco AVA, Monterey County. His wines had previously won Best of Show and Best of Class. This year both sets of judges were tougher critics and awarded him Silver and Bronze Medals. He and his wife came for this event and also stayed for the Winemaker’s Dinner and won over many new customers!
Next up was Damian Grindley winemaker of Brecon Estate from Paso Robles. Previously Brecon Estate had won a Gold Medal and this year, from both sets of judges was awarded Bronze Medals. I double checked the scorecards and it was correct. That said, I will never call the Judge’s opinion into question, but will state his Cabernet Franc is a refined Cabernet Franc and delicious. It was a pleasure to finally meet Damian in person after three years of corresponding via emails and thanks for making it to the event.
Next up was Wood Family Vineyards, Livermore, California. The tag team of Rhonda Wood winemaker/owner and Harrison Wood VP are two of the most enjoyable people you can imagine! They had previously won Gold for their Cabernet Franc and recently won Double Gold at the SF Chronicle Wine Competition. Our judges were tough this year and both awarded them Silver Medals. Wood Family Vineyards knows I believe they are “golden” not just for their Cabernet Franc but many other wines!
On the next to last table is a relative newcomer, both as a winery and a producer of Cabernet Franc, Rosa Fierro Cellars from Livermore, California. Rosie, always smiling is both the owner/winemaker and featured her 2019 “Big Daddy” Cabernet Franc from Cienega Valley vineyards. Her wine labels are unique and creative photos of wine production shots and her 2016 Cabernet Franc had won a Gold Medal.
The final table featured Kenefick Ranch Vineyards in Calistoga (Napa Valley), California. Chris Kenefick represented Kenefick Ranch pouring their 2018 Cabernet Franc. The Professional Judges awarded this wine Double Gold which is an outstanding achievement! FYI, the Professional Judge’s only awarded three Double Gold Medals across the entire competition. The People’s Choice Judges awarded him a Silver. This is one excellent wine in my opinion. Chris was a real trooper coming down in the morning and heading back to Calistoga after this event. Thanks Chris for pouring and making a lot of new friends and customers.
Each of these winemaker’s and owners spend a lot of time & effort getting to the event and it was greatly appreciated.
Now on to the appetizers that were served on this twelve foot long table or one of the largest “charcuterie boards” you will experience! The Executive Chef, Albert Sandoval did an amazing job and praises were heard all during the event. He certainly exceeded expectations and this was equal to all the excellent wines served during the event. So long was the presentation that it has to be shown in three pictures!
This was the first time and definitely not the last time that the Annual Cabernet Franc Wine Competition and Celebration will include this type of activity. All the guests enjoyed the tasting and appetizers featured during this unique event.
If you want to read more about each these wineries, I have provided a link to just one of the many stories written on these excellent wineries and their Cabernet Franc. Each story has the link to the winery.
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2020/12/16/shale-canyon-wines-does-it-again/
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2021/01/17/2018-wood-family-vineyards-cabernet-franc/
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2021/01/25/rosa-fierro-cellars-2016-big-daddy-cabernet-franc/
Sláinte,
Michael