Month: October 2024
2015 Laura Michael Calistoga Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
My wife and I met Laura at least twenty years ago at her winery. She acquired the property in 1999. Laura has always been a one-woman show until her husband Michael is now helping out in the vineyard management and Laura continues as the winemaker. Laura has for over two decades focused on small production artisan wines consistently year to year. When you visit Laura Michael Wines, it is not a “showy or upstaged” opulence, it is essentially their lifestyle and home. That said after spending some time with Laura, you immediately come away with the appreciation of her craft and pleasant personality. This quiet boutique winery is just outside downtown Calistoga heading east on Lake County Highway.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
She currently produces Zinfandel’s, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley, two Cabernet Sauvignons one each from Rutherford and Calistoga, a dessert wine made with 50% Zinfandel and 50% Petite Sirah, a Dry Rosé of Zinfandel and finally her flagship wine Bentley Cabernet Sauvignon. I still have a few bottles of her Bentley, and one comes up to drink in 2024. Unknown to Laura until she reads this, I have always kept her 2009 Bentley in a place of honor in the cellar on the display rack. Wines get this status either because the wine is exceptional, or the winemaker/owner is someone special. In her case, both got her this recognition.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Last evening pulled a Laura Michael 2015 Calistoga Cabernet Sauvignon. A beautiful dark red on the eyes with a medium heavy viscosity. Aromas of red cherry, sweet pipe tobacco and a hint of mocha. On the palate, additional smooth French oak coat the mouth with a modicum of dark chocolate and peppercorns. Priced fairly for a classical Calistoga Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon at $65. This one will be hard to keep long in the cellar!
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.lauramichaelwines.com/
A Culinary Delight in Modesto – Verona Cucina Italiana
Attending a birthday party in Modesto at Verona Cucina Italiana Restaurant and what a delicious evening with food and wine. While knowing the owner and executive chef, Jaime Alderete from the Verona18 at Copper Valley, had not ventured to have a meal at the Modesto location. Here they feature some exquisite dishes from Northern Italy. They are located at 1700 McHenry Avenue in the shopping center.
Photo from Verona Cucina website
Jaime and his wife Edwarda opened the restaurant in 1999. Jaime has been in the restaurant business since he was 18 years old with experience starting out as a busser. He quickly realized his culinary calling. Starting out preparing salads and then years of tutelage from top chefs from San Francisco to Sacramento he started his own kitchen. This then culminated with the opening of Verona Cucina in Modesto.
While the purpose of the evening was a birthday party, only one picture of the gorgeous presentation of the foods enjoyed was taken. Just some of the mouth watering and stunning foods were two appetizers. The first being Bruschetta (sliced toasted garlic bread, tomato, basil, garlic, drizzled with olive oil). The second was Caprese (tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil, Kalamata olives, olive oil and balsamic glaze). Both were some of best devoured east of New York City!
The entrees consisted of various gourmet pizzas and main dishes. The birthday person ordered the Melanzane (baked eggplant, mozzarella cheese, seasoned tomato-cream sauce) and commented “it was the best she had ever tasted!” Another meal consumed to a shiny barren plate was the Pappardelle (house made pasta, short rib sugo, mushrooms, onions, peppers, Alta Cucina tomatoes).
I enjoyed one of the ten or so specials of the day, all of which were very appealing. Having to choose one, finally went with the Scallop sauteed and drizzled with a Japanese citrus sweet & sour sauce, mashed potatoes and sauteed fresh seasonal vegetables. The scallops were fresh and the sauce was heavenly.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The various dishes enjoyed both the 2019 Ferrari Carano Chardonnay and the 2019 MacMurray Estate Vineyards, Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Ranch. Both were excellent with the food choices.
When the meal was concluded our excellent server provided what could only be described as a gourmet dessert listing. As we had all cleaned our plates, we just couldn’t order anything else.
Left the restaurant being full of scrumptious foods and all of us can’t wait for next evening there.
Slainte,
Michael
2023 Lavender Ridge Vineyard Marsanne – An Alternative to Chardonnay
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
2018 Lavender Ridge Vineyard tasting room is in the town of Murphys in the lower Sierra Nevada foothills. The tasting room is located at 425 A Main Street and specializes in Rhone varietal wines. They include Cotes du Calaveras Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne, Rolle, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Rose, Grenache, Cotes du Calaveras, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, Vin Doux and Anniversaire Blanc. They also feature an artisan cheese selection that is unique and has something for just about everyone. To read more about Lavender Ridge, see three previous articles:
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Tasted this newly released wine at Lavender Ridge recently. This is their first year producing Marsanne and is 100% Marsanne grapes. First on the eyes it is a light golden straw color and medium viscosity. On the nose, stone fruit and beeswax waft into the olfactory senses. On the palate, fresh citrus balanced with light honeysuckle. Low acidity and “heavy” compared to many white wines in the mouth with a creamy texture. On the finish, minerality with an abbreviated finish. As it develops over time, slight almond and honeysuckle, show up to complete this wine experience.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine sells for $26/bottle and comes in at 14.5% alcohol. Initially being released to club members. It was aged six months in neutral French oak barrels with native yeast with frequent stirring of the lees. Only 112 cases were produced from their estate vineyard.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine was chosen this evening to go with a light summer meal (it was 100 degrees). Thin sliced chicken filets seasoned with garlic salt and pepper and sauteed in minced garlic, butter and fresh squeezed lemon juice. Accompanied by a twice baked potato and a fresh garden salad topped with pepitas. The wine with its lemon characteristics and the meal with lemon came together very nicely to make an excellent meal.
Now if I can only convince Rich to take his excellent Roussanne and make a 50/50 Roussanne and Marsanne blend! Maybe next year??
Sláinte,
Michael
2014 Tate Wine Mt. Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon – A Perfect Fall Wine
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background and The Winery
Picture from Tate Wine website
Remembering back to 2016 when I first met David and Suzanne at lunch, the conversation was about price points on quality/artisan wines/authentic vineyard production which was so refreshing by a relative newcomer, like TATE Wines.
First a little history on how TATE Wines came to existence. Suzanne’s brief history while going to college in Austin, Texas (where she was raised), she very much enjoyed a wine appreciation course. She then went to study culinary arts at CCA in San Francisco. She went to work in Houston at a fine wine distributor for five years. It was a wine dinner where she met David Tate. In 2010, she moved to Napa Valley.
David Tate’s credentials as a winemaker for 25 years are very strong: Ridge Vineyards, as an assistant winemaker; worked in Barossa Valley, Australia; Provence, France; Canterbury, New Zealand. He also has travelled to just about every fine wine region in the world. David graduated from Brock University in Enology and Viticulture with honors. David is originally from Vancouver, British Columbia. David currently is the winemaker at Barnett Vineyards, winning many outstanding awards for their wine.
Picture from Tate Wine website
In 2011 David and Suzanne formed TATE Wines. David as the artisan winemaker, Suzanne as the marketing and sales arm, one from Canada and one from Texas. Yet combined they make a synergistic and complementary team of two, ready to take on the world with their wines.
Currently they have seven wines to offer. Their 2022 St Helena Sauvignon Blanc, 2022 Spring Street Chardonnay, 2021 Jack’s Vineyard Howell Mtn Cabernet Sauvignon, 2021 Spring Street Cabernet Sauvignon, Miss Gay Rose (from Grenache), 2021 Mt Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon and 2019 Reason Vineyard Merlot. I must schedule a tasting as it has been a while since Suzanne visited Saddle Creek for a winemaker’s dinner.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Each micro vineyard which David has access to presents a unique and specific terroir which David extracts for optimum distinction. For example, for this 2014 Mt Veeder, he uses a single vineyard at 1400 feet elevation that was once an ancient seabed. This vineyard produces one of the lowest yields in Napa Valley. For those familiar with Mt Veeder, the top of the mountain is sunny and the first to receive the cooling climate or fog. David believes that this allows the grapes “to mature slowly producing dynamic flavors and deeper tannins”.
Opening this wine last evening was a truly a delightful experience and was such a great reminder of two great people in Napa Valley. On the eyes a brooding very dark reddish/blackish coloring. A classic from Mt Veeder with violet and earth notes on the nose. On the palate unmistakenly Mt Veeder with dark black cherries, tannins that caress rather than bite with a finish that was long lasting with plums concluding each sip. This wine still had a few years left with the fruit and acid in perfect balance.
Only 8 barrels were produced of this wine, and it comes in at 14.6% alcohol. Today’s vintage is the 2021 from Mt Veeder and is listed at $115.00. This wine will make my annual list of the Best Wines Tasted in 2024! That list comes out each December.
Sláinte,
Michael
2020 Middle Oak Wines Cabernet Franc – Music and Art Influencing the Wine
The Winery and Background
Photo from Middle Oak Wines Facebook
Christina Skinner is the owner of a small, woman-owned and family operated winery in Friendswood, Texas. Friendswood is located 23 miles southeast of Houston. Christina being a devoted artist (music and painting), had a dream to be involved with wine and the wine industry. After much studying, her dream came to life in the fall of 2021 with the introduction of her 2018 vintage “The Middle C”.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Her personal belief is that the arts and wines are intertwined disciplines. She sources her fruit from hand selected vineyards in Napa Valley, using organic, biodynamic and sustainable farming techniques producing beautiful fruit. Today, besides their Cabernet Franc, she produces Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache, Merlot, Red Blends, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Christina keeps production small focusing on the high quality producing 200-300 cases a year.
Christina launched a wine club recently with a great reception. Her near-term goal is going to gradually increase her production and move to a larger more functional and versatile space for her tasting room. One of the things she is most grateful for is that every single wine produced has won at least one medal/award, every year!
Photo from Rudy Zuidema
Christina was fortunate to meet and work with Rudy Zuidema, a winemaking star in Napa Valley. You can read a previous story on Rudy at:
Rudy, a UC Davis graduate in viticultural, has worked as a head winemaker, vineyard manager and general manager in Napa. His experiences in winemaking include time at Cuvaison, Honig, Robert Craig, Ehlers Estate and other projects include Napa De Oro Winery, Red Cap Vineyards and his own label Zuidema Wines. Rudy is the winemaker for Middle Oak Wines.
Previously at the International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition Middle Oak Wines won various awards. For the 2023 Competition Category 5 ($101 and up) for California (based grapes), they won a Gold Medal and Best of Class from the People’s Choice Judges. In 2024, both sets of Judges gave them a Silver Medal.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Enjoyed this wine the other evening. This is Christina’s favorite wine that she produces. Her “Middle C” Cab Franc on the eyes is a lush dark ruby and purple coloring and is medium-full bodied viscosity. On the nose, black cherry is the predominate aroma that wafts into the senses followed by raspberry and herbal notes. On the palate, flavors of black cherry reign with hints of dark chocolate and a skosh of vanilla with a minimal number of pyrazines on the palate. The finish is simply remarkable, smooth with structured velvety tannins, yet soft and rounded to be noticed but not overwhelm your mouth. This wine sells for $115. They used only French oak, with 100% being new for 12 months then transferring it to neutral barrels for another 12 months. It is comprised of 92% Cabernet Franc and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Cuda Ridge Wines Carménère – A Unique Wine
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A Brief History of Carménère
The history of the Carménère varietal is as fascinating as it is happenstance! It was once one of the grapes in the Médoc region of Bordeaux. It served a similar purpose as Petit Verdot does today – producing a deep red ink on wines. It was one of the original six red grapes of Bordeaux. Carménère originates from the French word for crimson (carmin) which refers to the crimson color of the autumn foliage.
(Photo from Wikipedia)
When the Phylloxera plague hit in 1867 destroying most of the vineyards in Europe, many thought the Carménère grape was extinct. It wasn’t until 150 years later that it was discovered that Chile had preserved the Carménère grape thinking it was Merlot (from clippings planted from France). DNA confirmed that it was the missing 6th varietal of Bordeaux.
Carménère Today
Carménère grows mainly in Chile, specifically the Colchagua Valley, Rapel Valley and in the Maipo Province. It is also grown in the Veneto region of Italy, and recently several wineries in Mendocino, Livermore, Lodi, Napa and Calaveras are producing it, albeit in small quantities. Walla Walla also has some root stock growing in Carménère.
Uniqueness of Carménère
As a varietal, it has the deep ruby coloring and aromas of red fruits. Tannins are softer and milder than Cabernet Sauvignon, thus its use in blending to soften a strong Cabernet. The use is like the use of Merlot in formulating an enjoyable blend. Chile produces a 100% Carménère which has a cherry and fruity flavor but has traces of smoke and earthy notes with the inky coloration.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2019 Cuda Ridge Carménère wine lived up to and exceeded all the key characteristics of Carménère. On the eyes, a medium-heavy viscosity wine with a unique inviting deep purple coloration. On the nose, ripe Bing cherries greeted the senses. The palate is where this wine excelled. First the bright cherry taste was intense and concentrated. Plums and dark fruits then came forth with a hint of soft dry and wet earthen tones (minerality and forest floor) with black tea in the background. The earthen notes are generally found in Chilean Carménère but not found too often in California. The finish was long lasting with mocha and pepper finishing off the enjoyment. The wine is aged in French oak barrels (100%) for 18 months. This wine immediately after tasting made my “Best Wines” tasted in 2021 and again in 2024 (full list published in December).
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Larry Dino, owner and winemaker at Cuda Ridge Wines now has all six modern Bordeaux varietals available at the tasting room. The Carménère is the first locally produced wine varietal in the Livermore AVA. This second release is larger than the first year but will be flying out the door. Inquire at the winery for availability.
One of the solid and simple marketing ideas that Larry devised is his coloring scheme: White label for his Reserve wines, Black label for his non-Bordeaux wines and purple label for his Bordeaux varietals. Obviously Carménère falls in his purple label.
His Carménère will surely garner many awards in the upcoming wine competitions. The wine costs $50. Truly a good price point given the uniqueness and scarcity of Carménère plantings in California and the only current Livermore grown Carménère being offered.
Today’s vintage is the 2022 and he offers two versions of Carménère: Casa de Vinas and Insel Family Vineyard. He also offers the 2021 Little Dog Vineyard Carménère.
His awards for this delicious wine are as follows:
2020 Carménère Insel– Silver Medal, 2022 San Francisco Chronicle Competition
2020 Carménère Little Dog Vineyard – Wine Enthusiast, 92 points
2019 Carménère – Gold Medal, 2021 Orange County Fair
Sláinte,
Michael
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