2021 Vivác Winery Cabernet Franc, Abbot Vineyard – High Altitude Wine with Character!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Vivác Winery was the Professional Judges winner as Best of Show at the 5th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition in the “Southwest Division”. The Southwest Division was for wines comprised of minimum of 75% Cabernet Franc. They were up against a strong field of contenders from Arizona, and Texas. Additionally their Cabernet Franc received a Silver Medal from the People’s Choice Judge’s.
Photo from Vivác Winery Facebook page
The winery sits at roughly 6,000 feet elevation in a valley in New Mexico. Similar to high altitude Malbec wines from the upper Calchaquí Valley (up to 10,000 feet elevations), the intensity of the flavors were equally matched. In fact the winery name vivác (pronounced vee-vok) is a mountaineering term meaning high altitude refuge, related to an ancient Spanish word bivouac.
See link for details (https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2023/05/09/2020-bodega-colome-estate-malbec-argentinas-oldest-continually-producing-winery/ ).
High elevation vineyards tend to receive more direct and concentrated sunlight. For example for every 1,000 feet gain in elevation, the level of UV rays increase by 10-12%. This forces the fruit to develop thicker skin, leading to greater color concentration and sharp and edgy tannins.
The Winery
Photo from Vivác Winery Facebook page
The Vivác Winery is truly a family affair. Founded in 1998, today it consists of Chris Padberg (co-winemaker, Jesse Padberg (co-winemaker), Liliana Padberg (co-business management team) and Michele Padberg (co-business management team). The truly unique fact of this winery is not only they are co-owners, but each has their Sommelier certifications from various institutions. They know quality wine! The winery is 45 miles north of Santa Fe and roughly 25 miles south of Taos.
Just a few of their many awards are:
*2023 Los Angeles International Wine Competition for their Tempranillo
*2023 at the Texas International Wine Competition won Platinum for their Sangiovese
*2022 they won Gold at the Mondial des Vins Extremes for their Merlot and Syrah
*2021 they won Gold at Berliner Wein Trophy Competition for their Montepulciano
*And many more awards for Chardonnay and various Rosé wines from France, Germany and Italy.
Today they are producing various red wines including Sangiovese, Syrah, Barbera, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Refosco, Nebbiolo, Arandel and a red blend. For the whites, they produce Chardonnay, Gruner Veltliner, Riesling and a white blend. Additionally they also offer several blush wines and even a port.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
It was with great anticipation that I opened this Cabernet Franc from New Mexico and with altitude. The Abbott Vineyard is a short distance from the winery and sits at 5,800 feet elevation. The vineyard is approximately 40 years old. The collective terroir is experienced in each sip of this wine.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First on the eyes this wine is cavernously dark in color and medium heavy viscosity. Once poured into the glass, the aromas unmistakably showed it’s “cab franc-ness” pedigree, shouting out to the olfactory senses enticing one to savor its pedigree. On the nose sweet red raspberry was predominate with intense violets. On the palate, “high altitude” intensity was evident on the first sip with gravely rocks and earthy dustiness. After letting it open up for a good 30-40 minutes brought forth fruit of raspberry and red cherry. Secondary flavors of clove, cinnamon, oak. On the finish a combination of both silky and edgy tannins coated the mouth. Soft and inviting oak also concluded the experience. Definitely a “food wine” unless you want a chewy Cabernet Franc!
The 2021 Cabernet Franc received a 12 day cold fermentation in stainless steel. It was aged in old French Barriques for 16 months. The wine consists of 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon with only 116 cases produced.
This wine will make my annual Best Wines Tasted for 2024. The list comes out each December. While tasting between 1600 to 1800 wines annually, this list is limited to about 2-3% when tallied up.
The winery just this week switched over to their 2022 vintage. But don’t despair, the 2022 comes from the same altitude vineyard! It will sell for $32/bottle and is comprised of the same proportions of 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 126 cases were produced.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine was paired with a marinated flank steak kabob with red, green and yellow peppers. The marinade was Pappy’s Seasoning and Black Pepper Sauce. Accompanied by quartered seasoned and roasted Yukon potatoes and a fresh garden salad. The pairing was absolutely fantastic with the rich and chewy Cabernet Franc with its tannins cutting through the meat as well as accentuating the pyrazine characters (bell pepper flavoring) on the kabob.
Sláinte,
Michael