2021 Barra Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – A Formidable Wine From Mendocino
BARRA of Mendocino has a new label for their line of Reserve wines which are all CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers). It is in honor of a historic oak tree found on its home ranch on the Redwood Valley Vineyards. It is both a foiled oak and grape leaves, embossed on a black background. On the back of the bottle it states it is symbolic of their 70 year history making wine as in “Like an old oak tree, our roots run deep”. Martha Barra, winery owner and co-founder stated “A powerful icon in our vineyards, the oak tree represents wisdom and knowledge, strength and endurance, stability and honesty”.
About CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers)
In order to understand the winery, it is essential to understand what organic farming and certification is all about. A very brief explanation, when Charlie Barra started the winery almost 40 years ago, he undertook a Herculean task of making it organic on his terms. In his words “Yes it’s more work (annual audits/certifications, paperwork, labor requirements), more risk (crop devastation from pests) and not necessarily a bigger payout, buts essential to the well-being of this planet”. His vision was remarkable.
BARRA of Mendocino has been CCOF for over 20 years and took 3 years of inspections prior to becoming complete. Charlie’s favorite saying is that he had been farming organically for over 55 years! Organic certification requires the vineyards are maintained without conventional pesticides or herbicides, synthetic fertilizers, sewage sludge, bioengineering or ionizing radiation. Crop covers of bell beans, red clover and peas are planted between the rows of vines and when flowering are then turned back into the soil for nutrients for the vineyards/grapes. The micro-organisms in the soil allow the vines to utilize the nutrients efficiently.
The Winery
Charlie followed his father and maternal grandfather who migrated to Mendocino County from Piedmont, Italy in 1906. Charlie began farming grapes in the mid 1940’s and in 1954 purchased Redwood Valley Vineyards. He worked vigorously with Karl Wente, Robert Mondavi and others to be one of the first growers of many varietals planted on the North Coast. Today the ranch grows organically Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Muscat Canelli. Besides the BARRA of Mendocino label, they have two other labels, Girasole Vineyards and CORO Mendocino. Charlie passed in 2019 and his wife Martha who worked with him for almost 40 years, is heading the family winery which now stands at 350 acres and a 2.8 million gallon custom crush facility. They launched the BARRA of Mendocino Brand in 1997 and the Girasole Brand in 2003. Their son and daughter also have major responsibilities to keep the “family farm” running.
The Wine – 2021 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The first thing that needs to be mentioned is be prepared to have your mind blown as to what kind of Cabernet Sauvignon can come out of Mendocino!! This was simply a wonderful surprise opening this bottle. The wine comes from their 50 acre vineyard site located at 764 feet in elevation and has been designated certified organic since 2007. The wine rested 18 months in 30% new French oak barrels and the balance being neutral.
Randy Meyer, the winemaker crafted an elegant wine! First on the eyes a deep royal purple with glistening hues around the rim. Medium to medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose this was no ordinary “milk toast or weak cousin” Cabernet Sauvignon from Mendocino, but immediately intense aromas of cherries and blackberry wafted into the senses. On the palate cocoa and vanilla coffee along with blackberry swirled lively in the mouth with a secondary offering of anise. On the finish, most notably it was smooth and silky, yet notable tannins providing a Cabernet Sauvignon that was “Napa worthy”. It is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon with 87% Estate and 13% Home Ranch – both being certified organic. 1455 cases were produced and is listed on their website for $28. Without a doubt a classy and true Cabernet Sauvignon and at $28 being flat out a bargain! It was aged 18 months in 30% new French barrels and the balance being neutral. The wine won a Gold Medal at the Mendocino County Wine Competition.
I don’t remember having tasted any Cabernet Sauvignon that compares to this bottle of immense flavor at this price point. One of my notes while tasting it was it hit my “Golden Triangle” of balance between fruit, oak and tannins. The end result being a wine with a smooth, silky and delicious finish.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired with beef, spinach and ricotta ravioli’s with a roasted tomato and garlic red sauce. Topped with fresh Parmesan cheese and accompanied by garlic bread. The pairing was excellent and frankly the meal could have been upgraded to be suited for this quality of wine.
This wine just made my annual Best Wines Tasted in the year in the up to $50/category. That list comes out mid-December each year.
Sláinte,
Michael