BARRA of Mendocino Reserve Zinfandel – Vineyards With Foresight and Care
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
BARRA of Mendocino has a new label for their line of Reserve wines which are all CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers). It is in honor of a historic oak tree found on its home ranch on the Redwood Valley Vineyards. It is both a foiled oak and grape leaves, embossed on a black background. On the back of the bottle it states it is symbolic of their 70 year history making wine as in “Like an old oak tree, our roots run deep”. Martha Barra, winery owner and co-founder stated “A powerful icon in our vineyards, the oak tree represents wisdom and knowledge, strength and endurance, stability and honesty”.
About CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers)
In order to understand the winery, it is essential to understand what organic farming and certification is all about. A very brief explanation, when Charlie Barra started the winery almost 40 years ago, he undertook a Herculean task of making it organic on his terms. In his words “Yes it’s more work (annual audits/certifications, paperwork, labor requirements), more risk (crop devastation from pests) and not necessarily a bigger payout, but essential to the well-being of this planet”. His vision was remarkable.
BARRA of Mendocino has been CCOF for over 20 years and took 3 years of inspections prior to becoming complete. Charlie’s favorite saying is that he had been farming organically for over 55 years! Organic certification requires the vineyards are maintained without conventional pesticides or herbicides, synthetic fertilizers, sewage sludge, bioengineering or ionizing radiation. Crop covers of bell beans, red clover and peas are planted between the rows of vines and when flowering are then turned back into the soil for nutrients for the vineyards/grapes. The micro-organisms in the soil allow the vines to utilize the nutrients efficiently.
The Winery
Charlie followed his father and maternal grandfather who migrated to Mendocino County from Piedmont, Italy in 1906. Charlie began farming grapes in the mid 1940’s and in 1954 purchased Redwood Valley Vineyards. He worked vigorously with Karl Wente, Robert Mondavi and others to be one of the first growers of many varietals planted on the North Coast. Today the ranch grows organically Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Muscat Canelli. Besides the BARRA of Mendocino label, they have two other labels, Girasole Vineyards and CORO Mendocino. Charlie passed in 2019 and his wife Martha who worked with him for almost 40 years, is heading the family winery which now stands at 350 acres and a 2.8 million gallon custom crush facility. They launched the BARRA of Mendocino Brand in 1997 and the Girasole Brand in 2003. Their son and daughter also have major responsibilities to keep the “family farm” running.
The Wine, 2020 BARRA Reserve Zinfandel – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine from Barra was exceptional and I am not a Zinfandel drinker. In a large cellar I probably only have 6-8 Zinfandels! So it take a strikingly good one to get my attention. This Barra Reserved forced me to reckon with its presence. On the eyes, a beautiful royal purple hue and coloring and medium viscosity. On the nose dark and red fruits abounded. On the palate is where the clean and pure fruits of raspberry, blueberry and blackberries swirled together for instant enjoyment. While the fruit was vibrant, it was counter balanced with a tinge of earthiness. On the finish it was a dry Zinfandel, no fruit bomb and the tannins were present and noticeable, but with the fruit they came across as round and soft like a Rubens painting. Aged 17 months in 25% new French oak and coming in at 14.5% alcohol. This is an exceptional wine for $26/bottle and worth picking up a bottle or two!
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a seared then BBQ ribeye steak. It was marinated in Steward & Jaspers Sweet Bourbon Glaze. Accompanied by a Russet brown potato and steamed broccoli. Had not ever paired a ribeye steak with Zinfandel, but with the Bourbon glaze, the wine with its fruit and tannins were a very good pairing. Each of BARRA’s Reserve series of wines are quickly becoming one of my favorites with clean and lively flavors, essential varietal targets and very reasonable prices!
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
November 15, 2023 at 8:11 pm
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