Livermore Wineries
2025 Townsend Ranch Cabernet Pfeffer Blanc Reserve – Yes the First One Ever Produced in the World!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
This is the statement from winemaker and proprietor Steve Ziganti of 3 Steves in Livermore, California. I would like to begin with the uniqueness and scarcity of this grape varietal as a red wine. It is not even listed in the most recent California Grape Crush Report put out by California Dept of Food and Agriculture. In research, it is estimated that somewhere between 10-15 acres are planted in California. Those acres are primarily located in San Benito County specifically Cienega Valley. The main producers of red Cabernet Pfeffer are Stirm Wine Co, Enz Vineyards and a few others. Now welcome 3 Steves putting yet another twist and the only ones making a Blanc version.
Cabernet Pfeffer flavor profile characteristics are light, peppery, with high acidity and beautiful red fruit notes. One of the standalone red fruit notes is cranberry. It is often referred to as being more in line with Nebbiolo with its full perfume. Originally from northeastern France and the cuttings here in the USA date back to mid-1800’s. The name comes from William Pfeffer who brought over a cutting from Bordeaux called Mourtaou. He cultivated the vines about San Benito County. When phylloxera wiped out Mourtaou in Bordeaux, the grape was known as Cabernet Pfeffer in the USA.
Steve Ziganti has used this red grape varietal in the past and currently in making his 3 Cab’s, a mixture of Cabernet Pfeffer, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé. That will be a review in the future.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Livermore Valley has recently undertaken a strategic direction to focus on Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc wine varietals. 3 Steves Winery has also joined this effort. Beyond the Cabernet Franc movement Steve Ziganti has been producing his 3-Cab’s Rosé blend for a few years. He took a bold risk to graft his Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Pfeffer on two acres of his vineyard in eastern Livermore (a warm area). Having used the Cabernet Pfeffer previously, he wanted to capture the essence of the grape in a Blanc mode by itself being 100%.
To show the exquisite and rarity of this offering, he used the Townsend Ranch label set aside as the reserve offering. Townsend Ranch comes from a 2,000-acre ranch from the 1800’s which part of his current property resides on. Ironically and perhaps funny, there was no Townsend family involved in the name, but instead it referred to as “Towns End” being out a way from the center of Livermore.
The Townsend Ranch series includes Sangiovese that received Best of Class and Chardonnay that won Double Gold at the SF Chronicle Wine Competition.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine best served in a Pinot Noir glass or full bowl standard wine glass, allows the aromatics to waft gently into the senses. While on the eye a subdued and almost muted light yellow, yet the viscosity is medium-heavy in the glass. On the nose, the aromatics of white pepper, roses with strawberries are dominant. On the palate is where the experience comes alive with pine and green tea. The key, unbeknownst to me before tasting was the strong pomegranate flavors, a combination of savory and a bit bitter at the same time. This is muted by the cherry, raspberry and cranberry fruits with each sip. The finish provided a slight minerality, yet all combined to provide a lasting and flavorful sip.
The grapes were whole cluster pressed, fermented in stainless steel and then aged approximately 4 months in neutral white oak barrels. The wine comes in at 13.3% alcohol. The wine is projected to sell for $65/bottle and only 120 cases were produced. The release date is scheduled for April, 2026.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was chosen to go with seasoned roasted pork tenderloin this evening. Serendipitously, the wine and food pairing was chosen without first tasting the wine. It turned out to be spot on with a new recipe. This dish was herb encrusted pork tender with the following: olive oil, minced garlic, fresh rosemary finely chopped, fresh thyme leaves, fresh sage finely chopped, fresh oregano, Dijon mustard, kosher salt, white pepper and black pepper. The pomegranate Jus drizzled on the pork when served included pomegranate juice (unsweetened), chicken stock, dry red wine (used Cabernet Franc), honey, balsamic vinegar, unsalted butter and salt/pepper to taste. Garnished with pomegranate arils and thyme leaves. Accompanied by white rice and sautéed halved Brussel sprouts drizzled with Balsamic vinegar.
Having no “a priori” knowledge of the taste of the wine or the new food dish you could not have asked for a better pairing. A very congenial meal this evening with the pomegranate tastes both in the wine and meal.
The Winery
Photo from 3 Steves Winery website
3 Steves started with three friends ironically with the first name Steve. They received their license in early 2010. For several years they made their wines at a custom-crush facility which worked well, but they dreamed of owning their own winery and vineyard one day having responsibility from soil to bottle. In 2013, they opened our doors for the first time at 5700 Greenville Road in Livermore! I can remember visiting the winery during their first week of operation. Today Alex Wolfe is the head winemaker.
Photo from 3 Steves Winery website
Since that time various changes have occurred, but the one steadfast motto is commitment to quality. They have won many awards including SF Chronicle Best Red Wine of Show (Ancient Vine Zinfandel), Tri-Valley Conservancy Uncorked Wine Competition (Best White Wine of Show), International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition (Cabernet Franc and 3-Cabs Rosé) and a lot more, too numerous to list all here. Their awards have included Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Chardonnay and other varieties.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2022 Cuda Ridge Wines Malbec With Baked Chicken Cheese Enchiladas
Background
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Malbec as a grape possesses an inky dark color and robust tannins. This purple grape is also one of the six grapes allowed in the blend of red Bordeaux wines. This thick-skinned grape needs more sun and heat than other known varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. Livermore Valley is great location for this varietal. Besides ripening mid-season during harvest, it provides a plum flavor characteristic to wines in blending or as a standalone varietal. The key to Malbec is its rich, dark and juicy fruit.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Malbec has always been a favorite wine. While having had Cuda Ridge Wines regular Malbec in the cellar for a few years, I was again pleased opening this bottle.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine, when poured into the glass possessed a glistening magenta coloring with a medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose, aromas of black fruits and earthiness wafted into the senses awakening the imbiber. Once on the palate, blackberries, blueberries and black plums were the dominate and rich flavor profiles that swirled about coating the mouth. Secondary flavors of exotic spices of cloves paired with a distinct earthiness. On the finish, light toasted wood with present tannins yet smooth and silky. Very well-balanced and structured layers of enjoyment.
This is 100% Malbec coming from the White Cat Vineyard in Livermore. The wine is aged in Pennsylvanian American oak, with 50% being once used and 50% neutral. The wine was aged 19 months in barrels and comes in at 14.5% alcohol and is sold at $40/bottle.
As an aside we contrasted the wine with a well-known Argentina Malbec, that was good but not nearly the fruit of Cuda Ridge Malbec. Cuda Ridge Malbec will be our go to Malbec of choice in the cellar.
This wine most definitely will make my annual list of Best Wines tasted in 2026.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Dinner with this wine was a dish not paired before with Malbec. Decided on baked chicken cheese enchiladas. Thinking the spiciness of the dish would be nicely paired with the fruit of the wine to help cut through the red tomato salsa.
The enchiladas ingredients included salsa with chunky Pico de Gallo, grated cheddar cheese, shredded cooked chicken slow cooked in salsa during the day, corn kernels, cumin, dried oregano, cayenne, kosher salt, black pepper, sliced scallions and packed into wheat low carb tortillas then baked. The recipe calls for sour cream and cream cheese, nor that I like on this dish, so my wife cooked hers with them and mine without! Served with Pico de Gallo baked on the top of the enchiladas and toasted yellow corn.
The enchiladas have always been one of our go to dishes and tonight was no exception as they were delicious. The Malbec with its fruit surrounded the spicy enchiladas with each succulent bite. A very good food and wine pairing and will be a repeat for sure!
The Winery
Photo from Cuda Ridge Wines
Larry Dino, the winemaker at Cuda Ridge Wines and is the owner along with his expert wine taster Margie Dino, now has all six modern Bordeaux varietals available at the tasting room.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
One of the solid and simple marketing ideas that Larry devised is his coloring scheme: White label for his Reserve wines, Black label for his non-Bordeaux wines and purple label for his Bordeaux varietals.
The list of awards for all his other wines is extensive and would direct you to his website to view the dozens and dozens of noteworthy awards.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2025 Wood Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc With a New Food Pairing
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
When going out for Chinese food at a new establishment, we have established a basic “criteria” to determine the quality of the food. We order at least three items but always: Hot & Sour soup, Lemon chicken and Honey Walnut Prawns. If they pass this test, we will return. Tonight, my wife decided to make Lemon chicken which she had never prepared before. It turned out fabulously and we may never eat Chinese food out again!
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
An interesting fact about this wine is its history. The grapes come from the Louis Mel Ranch that was originally planted in 1883. The cuttings were brought over by Charles Wetmore from Chateau Yquem. Louis Mel’s wife, Marie, was good friends with Marquise de Lur-Saluces, long-time owners of Chateau Yquem. Wente later acquired the property and eventually morphed the vineyards to be the renowned Sauvignon Blanc Clone FPS01.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Wood Family Vineyards does makes two different Sauvignon Blanc wines, this is their stainless-steel version. This stainless-steel fermented version is similar to a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with grapefruit, lemon grass, etc. However, this is just a bit “tamer and more subdued” than a New Zealand, yet zesty, bright and lively. On the eyes there is a tantalizing light golden coloring and medium viscosity making one think it to be “light”. However, that is not the case at all. On the nose aromas of lemon grass and tropical floral rise to meet the imbiber. On the palate, the strong flavors of grapefruit and lemon grass swirl about like a party in the mouth inviting one to partake in the merriment. Even a strong hint of lime was present. Layers of discerning flavors unfold to the imbiber. Mostly tart with a faint hint of pineapple and passion fruit to soften the experience. On the finish, a puckering and enjoyable lemon zest and lime are present. Only 300 cases were produced, and the wine will be released in February 2026, priced at $34/bottle with 14% alcohol.
This wine will make my annual Best Wines tasted in 2026!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Historically we have paired Sauvignon Blanc with seared Mahi Mahi, Swordfish, sashimi or Petrale Sole topped with fruit. We also paired Sauvignon Blanc with a light pork chop. We have never paired this with chicken, but the Lemon in the chicken seemed to beg this citrus Sauvignon Blanc.
While Lemon chicken may sound pedestrian, it requires a bit of work. The chicken is twice fried in batter and then the sauce is poured over it to be served. The stay-crisp frying batter is made with corn flour, cornstarch, kosher salt, baking powder and cold soda water. The chicken breasts are fillet in half and cooked in canola oil. The lemon sauce ingredients include cornstarch, chicken broth, lemon juice, white sugar, garlic, ginger and Chinese cooking wine. Served garnished with lemon slices and finely sliced green onion. The actual process does require refrigerating the batter, pounding the chicken, preheating the oil, finishing the batter, frying the chicken (1st time), cooling it down, preparing the lemon sauce, frying the chicken (2nd time) then dousing with lemon sauce to be served.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Accompanied by homemade fried rice with eggs, peas and even freshly cut bacon. Also, a large artichoke was served which contains cynarin, a compound that can make wines taste sweet. Artichokes share an herbal green and grassy profile that was found in the wine.
The food pairing was spot on with the crisp, tart and citrusy flavors complementing the citrus qualities of the wine. And the artichoke was a bonus.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Wood Family Vineyards, located in eastern Livermore Valley with Rhonda Wood owner & winemaker, has been producing award winning wines for over two decades. You can read more on her background from airline pilot to award winning winemaker at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2016/02/10/wood-family-vineyards-2
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2023 Wood Family Chardonnay – A Great Vintage!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Rhonda Wood has been producing awarded Chardonnay for at least 7 years in a row and before. I personally have enjoyed this wine extensively for the same amount of time. It has also won my Best Wines tasted during the year for the same amount of time. Over the last 7 years, as a testimony to her quality of Chardonnay, I have purchased 8-14 cases a year. What I also find interesting, while a thread of flavors are evident year to year, the nuances of the wine do change with the “terroir” of the year.
When one is consistent in a sport they are called All Star, consistent in horse racing they are known as a thoroughbred, consistent in car racing they are called a champion, etc. All those accolades and more are indeed worthy of Rhonda’s Chardonnay and several of her other wines.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
I have called in the past Wood Family Vineyards Chardonnay the “Utility Player of Wines” as it goes so well with so many dishes. In reviewing stories, I have written about this Chardonnay food pairings dishes have included: Asian chicken wraps, swordfish, seared Ahi tuna, baked stuff chicken, stir fried chicken with Bok Choy, baked butterflied chicken with Swiss cheese, blackened Mahi Mahi, Tempura chicken with noodles, shrimp Pad Thai, Firecracker chicken, seared scallops and many more dishes.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First on the eyes a bright and deep golden color. Swirling the wine in the glass, you immediately see the thick and rich texture of this creamy wine. On the nose when cold, a slight lime note wafted in the senses, but as it warmed up, green apple and a tinge of green tea were present. On the palate most notable was the weightiness of the wine in the mouth. Honeydew melon was the dominant flavor with both buttery brioche dough and soft lemon zest and almond coming to the party. Also, on the finish a fresh star fruit quality was present. This year the butter scotch finish was not as pronounced, yet the wine encapsulated the mouth with a spring freshness.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2023 comes from two vineyards with 70% being Wisner and 30% being from Kalthoff Common area. These two are on opposite sides of Livermore. Barrel treatment was 100% French oak with 32.5% being new, 30% being once used and the balance being neutral. The wine was aged 9 months, and 900 cases were produced. The lees were stirred once every two weeks for five months. It sells for $36/bottle and comes in just slightly higher alcohol than 2022 at 14.6%.
The 2022 Wood Family Vineyards Chardonnay won Double Gold at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A bit of a gamble this evening, pairing the wine with chicken stir fry with Udon noodles. Ingredients included broccoli and topped with slices of green onions. I was a bit concerned that the Udon spicy sauce would be too much for the Chardonnay. The Wood Chardonnay was a perfect match for the food. The honeydew melon, along with the lemon zest and brioche in the wine was both simpatico and a little polarizing, to make each bite delightful. Just added one more dish to the mix for this lovely Wood Family Chardonnay!
The Winery
Photo from Wood Family Vineyards
Wood Family Vineyards, located in eastern Livermore Valley with Rhonda Wood owner & winemaker, has been producing award winning wines for over two decades. You can read more on her background from airline pilot to award winning winemaker at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2016/02/10/wood-family-vineyards-2
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
Cuda Ridge Wines 2022 Merlot Mentioned in Wine Enthusiast as One to Be Sought After
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Larry Dino, owner and winemaker at Cuda Ridge, was beyond excited at getting the news that his 2022 Merlot got mentioned as being one of the thirteen favorite Merlots from around the world. To be mentioned in an article featuring Merlot wines from Bordeaux, Tuscany, Napa Valley, Santa Maria Valley and Washington and some running up to $1,000 a bottle is some accomplishment and recognition.
Photo from Cuda Ridge Wines
A week ago, I was able to sit down and enjoy this wine with him as it was featured during CabFranc Fest and obviously along with his Cabernet Franc.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
There is a lot to be said about Cuda Ridge Wines in Livermore, California with Larry Dino as the winemaker and his wife Margie as chief wine taster. They produce Bordeaux style wines. The Cuda Ridge Wines tasting room is located at 2400 Arroyo Road in Livermore, California. Cuda Ridge Wines current production is approximately 2100 cases. They produce the following Bordeaux varietals: Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and most recently their addition of Carménère. Always experimenting, Larry Dino also has produced non-Bordeaux style wines which are designated under their Black label, these wines include Sangiovese, New-World style Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and others. Each varietal produced are small lots ranging from 100 – 450 cases. Cuda Ridge does extensive blending of varietals and strives for lower alcohol wines with intense complexity and character, traditional of the Bordeaux style wines.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paul Giamatti, the actor in the iconic movie “Sideways” playing the role as Miles and his disdain of Merlot almost killed this wondrous grape varietal in California. Even after two decades with Paul’s comments, Merlot is slowly recovering from his disparaging comments on the varietal. His classic comments ranging from “No, if anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving” to “I am NOT drinking any ####### Merlot!” only begins to frame the movie. A great book that just came out called “Sideways Uncorked” by Kirk and Mira Advani Honeycutt recaps the Merlot saga as well as the rise of Pinot Noir. Many did not understand the significance of the end of the movie with Miles saving a bottle of Chateau Cheval Blanc, a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc that he was saving for a special occasion! He ended the movie confirming his love of Merlot!!
First on the eyes a deep purple and magenta color with a medium-heavy viscosity. This is no ordinary Merlot upon first glance! Even this would have made Miles take pause and notice! Once the cork was popped, the strong aromas of plums and blackberries rushed into the senses hinting as what was to come! This mystery dark wine with beautiful aromas once in your mouth only begins to tell the story of this varietal by Cuda Ridge Wines. The dark plum flavor along with blackberries co-mingled happily like an Irish jig on the palate. On the palate, one is struck with the boldness, jammy (not sweet but texturally) and a chewy quality of the wine. On the finish black pepper counterbalanced by a note of vanilla with subtle tannins in the background, provide an enduring conclusion to each sip.
The wine comes from the eastern portion of Livermore with the majority (90%) being Thatcher Bay vineyards where the cooling afternoon winds provide an overall warm climate. Larry adds 7% Smith Ranch vineyard Petit Verdot and 3% White Cat vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon to make this elegant wine. Barrel treatment is 90% French oak with 44% being new and 10% American oak barrels. The wine is in barrels for 19 months. Now the newsflash – it is listed at $40/bottle and comes in at 14% alcohol with only 220 cases produced.
This wine just made my annual Best Wines Tasted in 2025 for the quality and value in the category up to $51.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
As the temperature had cooled off and the barbeque was at the ready, we decided to have a special BBQ burger this evening. Special in that finely diced purple onion, jalapeno peppers and our normal spices were mixed with the hamburger meat hours before going into the hamburger press. This allowed the uncooked meat to soak in all the flavors in advance. Once pressed, another portion of spices were applied to the meat. Accompanied by a grilled portabella mushroom and freshly made macaroni salad using small shells, peas, chopped purple onion, cut sharp cheddar cheese, chopped jalapeño peppers, chopped smoked applewood bacon and thousand island dressing. The hamburgers were cooked to medium rare and served on sesame seed bun with ketchup, mustard, purple onion slice and Kosher dill pickle slices. This was an excellent food and wine pairing with the wine embracing the spiciness of the meal with its fruits and slight vanilla on the finish. Perhaps one of the surprises of the evening, when researching a side dish for the Merlot wine, was a suggestion of mushrooms. Opting for the portabella mushroom with its earthiness and minerality it paired exquisitely with the Merlot. Who knew?
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
“Sideways Uncorked” by Kirk Honeycutt and Mira Advani Honeycutt
A Tasting Experience and Conversation with Steven Mirassou at Steven Kent Winery
Photo from Steven Kent Mirassou
A week ago, I had an opportunity to sit with Steven Mirassou to recount the years of friendship and examine Cabernet Franc for the future, especially for Livermore Valley. This was the day after the Livermore CabFranc Fest where we briefly spoke along with Beth Mirassou.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The conversation was intriguing and revealing about some of the new directions of the winery. We started the conversations in his words “zealous quest” to produce the best Cabernet Sauvignon in California. While still committed to making one of the best in California, he has quietly conceded to Napa Valley. His Lineage offering is superb and has gained both national and international recognition, a premier Cabernet Sauvignon. While discussing his time, energy and effort in this quest, I think he has put this on the back burner rather than fully acquiesce to another region! Mirassou stated that while he loves Lineage and the other Cabernet Sauvignon based wines, he continues to make and feels compelled to showcase the variety that he loves the most and which has the greatest potential to deliver to the Livermore Valley the attention he believes it desereves.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Steven’s interest, rather I should say, his rabid obsession with Cabernet Franc, has always been present in the almost thirty years we have known each other. At Steven Kent Winery, he always made a standalone Cabernet Franc. In fact, while producing many of his Cabernet Sauvignon varietals, he often included a smidgen of Cabernet Franc to augment the flavor profile stating “not as “big” as CS but with more finesse and an aromatic palate of sandalwood and chocolate. Acidity is the watchword of this variety. Its acid-based red fruit flavors marry well with the darker more tannic Cabernet Sauvignon to enliven and lengthen Lineage’s finish”. Each varietal in a Bordeaux style blend brings its own unique quality and character. As Aristotle in his writings 2,372 years ago in his book on Metaphysics stated “in the case of all things which have several parts and in which the totality is not, as it were, a mere heap, but the whole is something besides the parts”. Then Euclid with his mathematics approach from his book Elements, Common Notion, stated “The whole is greater than the part(s)”. You can read the entire story of Lineage Wines at: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2022/12/29/2012-lineage-the-aristotelian-euclidian-connection/
After fully considering and realizing the full potential of Livermore Valley, Cabernet Franc is now at the forefront of this passion. It started a few years back with the introduction of L’Autre Côte offering. It started out as a single offering (etched bottle) and has quickly morphed with many others.
The first one being his etched bottle which made the wine community stand up and take notice. At the 2022 International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition with his first entry with L’Autre Côte, he came away from both sets of judges (Professional & People’s Choice) with the prestigious Best of Class award. This was the only wine entered from all five categories to receive this double acclaim.
More recently he presented a provocative idea of Cabernet Franc. He offered the same harvested grapes fermented in three different vessels and aptly named them accordingly: Steel, Wood and Rock. The Steel aging the juice in stainless steel, Wood aging it in French oak barrels and Rock in concrete receptacle. While talking we tasted the Steel which was surprisingly “zingy and acid driven”. We then tasted a blend of all three, called the Elements. This then spent a year in bottle. The Elements produced a rounded and a full mouthfeel experience. The 2023 Cabernet Franc Elements blend, which was released in November 2024, was one of the favorite wines tasted of the various vessels. A few cases are still are available in the Steven Kent Tasting Room or on-line. It provided a beautiful contrast with a Yin-Yang of smoked paprika/sage in one direction and in the other a bell peppers (light pyrazines)/tomato characteristics. Key was the tannin momentum throughout the tasting exercise from first sip to the finish.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
One other new consideration for Steven is that this lineup is slated for the wholesale/retail market. While in the past his Lineage line was about a higher end market aimed at connoisseurs and wine aficionados, his quest is to spread Cabernet far and wide within a moderate price range.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We discussed various aspects of Cabernet Franc from his CabFranc-A-Palooza to my International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition and how the world is now ready for Cabernet Franc to be one of the dominant varietals in the market. Both of us have written extensively about why and how Cabernet Franc is deserving of this recognition as a grape that can grow in a variety of climates and produce varying results to augment and show the versatility in food pairings with Cabernet Franc.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Steven had thieved some barrel samples into lab bottles. Here is where Steven introduced a new direction with his Cabernet Franc. Having been familiar with Steven’s Cab Franc offerings, this was the demarcation of this afternoon’s conversation. The first lab sample was from a new vineyard called Morgensen clone 214, one of the dominant clones planted in the Loire Valley. This wine while absolutely delicious showed a decided turn from Steven’s normal lighter French style of Cabernet Franc. This was the darkest of the three and when in the mouth, was “chewy and bold” and figuratively slapped you in the face to pay attention to its structure and layers of uniqueness. This was aged in a 500L puncheon for 1 year. He only made three barrels, and I was only halfway kidding, asked that he ship one of the barrels to my house—it was of another level of quality and hit my bullseye target profile for Cabernet Franc. This was picked from the vineyard on Oct 3rd. Steven felt this was of such a higher quality that a percentage will go into the premier L’Autre Côte Cabernet Franc production. This “new vineyard” will produce some of the best Cabernet Franc I have tasted and can hardly wait for it to be released.
The second lab tasted was aged in 225-liter barrique that produced a mellower characteristic Cab Franc but still had noticeable tannins and acidity in the mid-palate. This was picked from the vineyard on Oct 17th.
The third lab sample tasted was clone 332 and also picked Oct 17th.
The last wine tasted was the 2022 Ghielmetti clone 332 single vineyard series that will be released in September of 2025.
Towards the end of our conversations, we circled back on the various forms of Cabernet Franc being produced. I mentioned the wines entering the International Cabernet Franc Competition this year in Copperopolis for the “Specialty Division” from Sparkling Blanc to Appassimento versions. Also discussed the Professional Judges Grand Sweepstakes winning wine from Yates Family and their 140-year-old Roman press (not in use, but in their winery/house) and a Cab Franc from Creekside Cellars from Colorado that won the People’s Choice Grand Sweepstakes, grown at 5,000 feet elevation. On my next visit to Livermore, I will bring a couple of these unique wines to taste with Steven.
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Photos ©Michael Kelly
For reference, Steven’s 2022 L’Autre Côte won Double Gold and Best of Class ($106 and up) from both the Professional Judges and People’s Choice Judges at the 2025 International Cabernet Franc Competition.
While the tasting of the various wines was so very enjoyable, perhaps the conversation, insights and intense laughter on many wide-ranging subjects was even of a higher quality. The Cabernet Franc varietal is in solid hands for the future with Steven. Looking forward to our next visit.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2023 Wood Family Vineyards Red Blend “The Runway” is the Authenic One!
Photo from Rhonda Wood
Background
Photo from Rhonda Wood
This new red blend wine called “The Runway” is a hat’s off to Rhonda Wood, the owner, winemaker and former airline pilot. Yes Rhonda Wood, winemaker/owner of Wood Family Vineyards used to fly planes (US Airways) but now can be found in the vineyards tending vines. Rhonda continues to fly about the western states in a private plane. She and husband Michael (with their two sons), have a winery in eastern Livermore. Rhonda started making wine in 1996. Besides sourcing wine on their property, they have 17 specific vineyards which are manicured to their specifications throughout Livermore’s ideal climate.
Another important piece for the background is it is called Red Blend. While this wine has the five main grapes of Bordeaux, the term “Bordeaux” is a geographic indication and a collective trademark. This only allows wine produced from and in the Bordeaux region of France to legally use “Bordeaux” name on the label. Producing or selling wine labeled as “Bordeaux” without authorization can lead to legal action, fines and even criminal charges! So while a wine listed as Bordeaux are desired and have a wonderful historical significance.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This is the second of two new wines being released on August 3rd, 2025 and is already a favorite wine! This is a “Bordeaux style” blend of five red grapes being 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 10% Malbec, 8% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot aged for 20 months in French oak barrels. The alcohol percentage came in at 13.7%. Combining these five grape varietals from Livermore Valley makes a wine that is greater than its components.
As Aristotle in his writing on Metaphysics wrote the “whole is more than just the sum of its components”. The resulting wine is more powerful, valuable and impactful than those varietals alone.
For example, the Cabernet Sauvignon portion provides structure, tannins and black fruit flavors (55%). The Cabernet Franc addition (22%) contributes herbal and lighter fruit notes. These two varietals make up 77% of the “Red Blend” giving it “a punch of tannins and fruit” with a modicum of herbal notes. Next up in the mix is Malbec (10%), which adds color, richness and often a smoky quality along with 8% Merlot which provides roundness, soft fruits and plummy notes. Lastly the Petit Verdot contributes tannins, structure and adds to the deep color. Having all these different, contrasting and complimentary tastes, flavors and aromas provide an elegant and beautiful wine.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Anticipated opening this inaugural wine as a fan of “Bordeaux” wines and history, was convinced this grape collection would provide a delightful wine. On the on eyes a dark almost black coloring with medium-heavy viscosity. As soon as the cork was popped, aromas of blackberry and blueberries awaken the olfactory senses. Decanted this young wine as it was just bottled three weeks ago for 2 hours before tasting at dinner. On the palate, each of the grape varietals stood “tall and proud” contributing their aforementioned qualities to each sip! As the wine engulfed the mouth, one immediately knew this is no ordinary wine as the notes of sharp tannins of the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot were counterbalanced to a certain point with the roundness of Merlot. Each contributed to the symphony of total experience with drums, flutes, violins, etc., each doing their part to provide a classical orchestration of flavors. This wine possessed fruit, tannins, and chewiness all for textural delight.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
While I was a bit cautious on the youth of the wine just being bottled on the other new release (The Takeoff), without any hesitation, this Runway wine is now ready and over-delivered last evening!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This evening’s meal was 24-hour marinated tri tip steak in Chaka sauce, then seared at 1500 degrees to medium rare. Accompanied by baked potato wedges that were cut into eights with olive oil, onion powder, garlic powder, smoked paprika, sea salt, black pepper and finely grated parmesan cheese. Also, garlic French bread and our guests brought her exquisite field green salad with glazed apple slices browned and sprinkled with brown sugar and feta cheese crumbles.
A great food pairing with the tannins (punch) to fully engulf the steak and yet with a mellow fruit and roundness to enjoy. This young wine is ready for the runway to start its journey and will only age to become more spectacular.
Wood Family Vineyards with this release just added another wine to my annual Best Wines Tasted for calendar 2025!
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Since this wine is dedicated to Rhonda’s initial career as a pilot, I thought it interesting to draw a few comparisons between being a winemaker and key traits of captaining a commercial or private plane:
Attention to details: The Captain knowing all aspects of flight planning, aircraft operation, documenting aircraft performance & maintenance, operational compliance, adhering to government standards & regulations, manage emergencies, coordination with mechanics, ground crew and air traffic control. Rhonda Wood: knowing the vineyards for pruning, shoot thinning, cluster thinning, water strategy & compliance, cover crop management, details to county, AVA and government regulations.
Awareness: The Captain understanding optimal aircraft performance and ability for various aircraft being flown. Rhonda Wood: Knowing when and what to do in the vineyard(s) from Brix checks, ordering supplies for the winery (yeast, So2, etc.), scheduling harvest with vineyard manager, soil nutrition, timing on picking, pressing, sending juice panels to ETS, punch down timing & frequency, selecting yeasts and additives (if necessary), tank temperatures. All of these functions for each and every varietal and winery blend.
Documentation: The Captain recording all aspects of aircraft operations, fuel, temperature, oil pressure, hydraulics, weather, turbulence, aircraft avoidance and airspace incidents, noting functions outside of prescribed government regulations, flight plans, etc. Rhonda Wood: pre-ordering bottles, labels and corks for upcoming harvest and bottling, testing during fermentation, compliance and documentation for ABC laws, tasting room notes, pairing & technical sheets, shipment compliancy, etc.
The above only scratch the surface of the broad characteristics of being a Captain and Winemaker. This may indeed be the reason she wins so many awards for her wines! In addition, self-confidence, humility, clear communication skills, desire to learn and most importantly, the ability to approach the runway for a great journey!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2023 Wood Family Vineyards Red Blend “The Takeoff”
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Photo from Rhonda Wood
This new red blend wine called “The Takeoff” is a hat’s off to Rhonda Wood, the owner, winemaker and former airline pilot. Yes Rhonda Wood, winemaker/owner of Wood Family Vineyards used to fly planes (US Airways) but now can be found in the vineyards tending vines. Rhonda continues to fly about the western states in a private plane. She and husband Michael (with their two sons), have a winery in eastern Livermore. Rhonda started making wine in 1996. Besides sourcing wine on their property, they have 17 specific vineyards which are manicured to their specifications throughout Livermore’s ideal climate.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This is a blend of three red grapes being 51% Cabernet Franc, 34% Malbec and 15% Merlot aged for 20 months in French oak barrels. The alcohol percentage came in at 13.7%. It will be part of the August 3rd, 2025 release party at $50/bottle.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Anticipated opening this inaugural wine as it combined two of her three wines that have made my Annual Best Wines tasted in the year for three years in a row, that being her Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Also this combination made a delicious Bordeaux style blend. On the on eyes a medium dark crimson coloring with medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose the three varietals coalesced to provide a range of aromas of blackberry, cherry and dark plums fruits along with violet and rose scents. On the palate, the Merlot seemed to have throttled back the “zip” of the Cabernet Franc and the smokiness, mellow pipe tobacco and leather components of the Malbec. This may have been due to a little bottle shock as the wine was just recently bottled. The smooth finish provided exceptionally rounded tannins with a hint of vanilla. An extremely mellow and integrated even keeled wine to be enjoyed with or without food.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This evenings meal was filet mignon steak, seasoned and seared on the BBQ at 1500 degrees and then cooked to medium rare. Plated with freshly made topping with Blue cheese, butter and chives. The same Blue cheese was used in the “smashed potatoes” also topped with fresh chives. Accompanied by a fresh garden salad with just cooked applewood smoked bacon, green onions and diced Roma tomatoes. A good food pairing lacking the tannins and “zip” to fully step up to integrate and take on the filet mignon this evening, but this young wine should age to be something spectacular.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Interesting to draw a few comparisons between the winemaker and key traits of captaining a commercial plane:
Attention to details: The Captain knowing all aspects of flight planning, aircraft operation, documenting aircraft performance & maintenance, operational compliance, adhering to government standards & regulations, manage emergencies, coordination with mechanics, ground crew and air traffic control. Rhonda Wood: knowing the vineyards for pruning, shoot thinning, cluster thinning, water strategy & compliance, cover crop management, details to county, AVA and government regulations.
Awareness: The Captain understanding optimal aircraft performance and ability for various aircraft being flown. Rhonda Wood: Knowing when and what to do in the vineyard(s) from Brix checks, ordering supplies for the winery (yeast, So2, etc.), scheduling harvest with vineyard manager, soil nutrition, timing on picking, pressing, sending juice panels to ETS, punch down timing & frequency, selecting yeasts and additives (if necessary), tank temperatures. All of these functions for each and every varietal and winery blend.
Documentation: The Captain recording all aspects of aircraft operations, fuel, temperature, oil pressure, hydraulics, weather, turbulence, aircraft avoidance and airspace incidents, noting functions outside of prescribed government regulations, flight plans, etc. Rhonda Wood: pre-ordering bottles, labels and corks for upcoming harvest and bottling, testing during fermentation, compliance and documentation for ABC laws, tasting room notes, pairing & technical sheets, shipment compliancy, etc.
Photo from Rhonda Wood
The above only scratch the surface of the broad characteristics of being a Captain and Winemaker. This may indeed be the reason she wins so many awards for her wines! In addition, self-confidence, humility, clear communication skills, desire to learn and most importantly, the ability to remain calm under pressure especially during “Take Off” and landing!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2022 JMC Cellars LVVC Blend
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
What is LVVC? LVVC stands for Livermore Valley Vintners Collective a group of winemakers in Livermore Valley who showcase what can be achieved solely with Livermore grapes. Each year a “framework” of grape selections and percentages are announced. Each of the participating wineries make their wines according to the strict framework (usually one varietal with a percentage) and up to several grapes with a minimum and maximum percentage. This allows each winery to have “similar expressions” of the blend yet allowing individual creativity.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This year’s requirement was to have a min/max of 35-40% Cabernet Sauvignon and balance being up to five varieties with no more than 25% of any other. The wineries participating this year for the 2022 release were: Fenestra Winery, JMC Cellars, Las Positas Vineyards, Page Mill Winery, Rosa Fierro Cellars and Wood Family Vineyards. The percentage each chose is listed in the above picture.
This year’s release event was held at the Bankhead Theater in Livermore on May 22, 2025.
The Winery
Photo from JMC Cellars website
This is the first review I have done on JMC Cellars and just met her at the LVVC event in May. The first thing you notice when talking with Jessica Carroll, winemaker and proprietor, is her exuberance talking about her wines. Her background is differently one described by Robert Frost as perhaps the road to winemaking “being the one less traveled”. She graduated from the University of Portland with a degree and worked in Civil Engineering as a Transportation Engineer in the San Francisco Bay Area. She quickly became smitten with the wine bug and wine industry. In 2014 she began completing her Enology Certificate from Las Positas College in Livermore and began working full time at a local winery. She opened the JMC Cellars in 2023 and hasn’t looked back! The tasting room is in the eastern portion of Livermore at 6800 Greenville Road.
Photo from JMC Cellars website
In reviewing her lineup of wines, for such a small new winery producing around 1,000 cases of wine, she has catapulted quickly into making a robust list of wines. Currently her two white wines include Riesling (dry) and Sauvignon Blanc. Her red wines are extensive with Alicante Bouschet, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, GSM, Malbec, Merlot, Peloursin, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Syrah and Zinfandel. She also has some proprietary wines and a Rosé. That is surely a record for only operating for less than two years. She also has won many awards, including Gold & Silver medals from the SF Chronicle Competition and others.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
JMC Cellars makes mostly wines using Livermore grapes but does source from other areas in California. For example her Pinot Noir comes from the Monterey area.
I have plans to meet with Jessica mid-July to do a tasting of many of her wines and surely several of those will be written about. Stay tuned.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The JMC Cellars blend is 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Malbec, 14% Grenache, 13% Cabernet Franc and 9% Mourvèdre. All the blends this year were a combination of Bordeaux and Rhone varieties which proved interesting to pair with food. More below on that subject.
It was discernable to pick up on the Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec with distinguishable tannins and flavors especially on the palate. The Grenache and Mourvèdre were a bit hidden but did provide a counter punch to the tannins with smoothing out the finish with their lighter touch and spices.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A very enjoyable drinking wine with both boldness with Bordeaux varieties and subtle nuances from the Rhone varieties to be discovered with each sip.
The 2022 LVVC from JMC Cellars currently goes for $45/bottle. It came in at 14.4% alcohol and was aged in French new oak barrels, being one or two years old, for 24 months. Jessica mentioned she uses a variety of toast methods from medium to heavy. Production for the 2022 was 50 cases. This is a wine that can be consumed stand alone or with very selective meals.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a seasoned, seared and BBQ’ed filet mignon and served medium rare. Accompanied by baked beans with Bourbon, brown sugar, Tobacco and ketchup.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
A fresh Southwest salad with roasted chicken, roasted corn, two different cheeses and topped with corn tortilla chips.
The wine with its variety of Bordeaux grapes worked wonderfully with steak, surrounding each bite with dark fruit and strong tannins. The Grenache and Mourvèdre providing spiciness and a soft landing on the finish subduing the tannins. A very good food and wine pairing.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
2023 Wood Family Vineyards Petite Sirah – Nothing Small About This Wine!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Petite Sirah, as an educational note, is not a “smaller” version of Syrah as it is a wholly different varietal. The background on Petite Sirah is that it is the offspring of Syrah and Peloursin (a scarce and almost extinct grape) from northern Italy/Switzerland area. The varietal name is Durif and was first introduced in 1880. Petite Sirah possesses one of the highest levels of antioxidants. In the State Agricultural report for California, Petite Sirah represented only 2.3% in the 2024 harvest.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo by Don Lahey, The International Wine of the Month Club
Petite Sirah has a big bold structure accompanied by high tannins. Dark fruits abound in the glass akin to Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon but even more tannic profile! There might be a warning label on a bottle if you are not familiar with the varietal. This wine was opened a few hours before the meal and the first thing one notices is the dark and inky coloring in the glass.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Once in the glass, aromas of dominant blackberry compote and bramble waft into the senses. Once the first sip hits the palate, a tug-a-war begins with bold tannins facing off against the berry fruit. Secondary flavors of black pepper and subtle notes of vanilla (most likely from the barrels) smooth out the landing in the mouth. The finish provides scrumptious blueberries and dry earthen minerality that is long lasting.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine come in at 13.9% alcohol and will be released mid-June with an expected price of $40/bottle. The is 100% Petite Sirah from the Casa de Vinas vineyard. Only 107 cases were produced. Aged in 12.5% new Hungarian oak and 12.5% new American oak with the balance being neutral for 18 months.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Prepared this evening’s meal with a new recipe this evening called Pork Tenderloin Tacos. The wine was selected due to its full body with high tannins that did produce a little bitterness and with the rich pork created a perfect balance. The pork tenderloin was cut up in strips and marinated in olive oil, fresh lime juice, honey, minced garlic, ground cumin, chili powder, paprika, dried oregano and kosher salt for 9 hours. Then cooked in a skillet on the stove and served with prepared flour tortillas, lime wedges and street corn salsa.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The salsa ingredients included roasted corn kernels, minced Jalapeño pepper with seeds, diced red onion, minced garlic, fresh squeezed lime juice, olive oil, chopped cilantro, cumin and kosher salt. With all the spices in the meal and smokiness, the Petite Sirah was an elegant match as boldness of the wine and the meal. Accompanied by refried beans and a fresh garden salad with multi-colored tortilla strips.
The Winery
Photo of Rhonda Wood (Winemaker) and Harrison Wood (VP)
Rhonda Wood, winemaker at Wood Family Vineyards, makes some exceptional wines from Livermore, California. The background on the winery can be found in another story at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2021/11/06/2018-wood-family-vineyards-chardonnay/
Rhonda and the family winery are small in comparison to some of Livermore’s known name wineries but have been regarded for twenty-five years as one of the top-quality wine producers.
From high in the sky to down to earth wines!! Yes Rhonda Wood, winemaker/owner of Wood Family Vineyards used to fly planes (US Airways) but now can be found in the vineyards tending vines. She and husband Michael (with their two sons), have a winery in eastern Livermore. Rhonda started making wine in 1996. Besides sourcing wine on their property, they have 17 specific vineyards which are manicured to their specifications throughout Livermore’s ideal climate.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly