2025 Townsend Ranch Cabernet Pfeffer Blanc Reserve – Yes the First One Ever Produced in the World!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
This is the statement from winemaker and proprietor Steve Ziganti of 3 Steves in Livermore, California. I would like to begin with the uniqueness and scarcity of this grape varietal as a red wine. It is not even listed in the most recent California Grape Crush Report put out by California Dept of Food and Agriculture. In research, it is estimated that somewhere between 10-15 acres are planted in California. Those acres are primarily located in San Benito County specifically Cienega Valley. The main producers of red Cabernet Pfeffer are Stirm Wine Co, Enz Vineyards and a few others. Now welcome 3 Steves putting yet another twist and the only ones making a Blanc version.
Cabernet Pfeffer flavor profile characteristics are light, peppery, with high acidity and beautiful red fruit notes. One of the standalone red fruit notes is cranberry. It is often referred to as being more in line with Nebbiolo with its full perfume. Originally from northeastern France and the cuttings here in the USA date back to mid-1800’s. The name comes from William Pfeffer who brought over a cutting from Bordeaux called Mourtaou. He cultivated the vines about San Benito County. When phylloxera wiped out Mourtaou in Bordeaux, the grape was known as Cabernet Pfeffer in the USA.
Steve Ziganti has used this red grape varietal in the past and currently in making his 3 Cab’s, a mixture of Cabernet Pfeffer, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé. That will be a review in the future.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Livermore Valley has recently undertaken a strategic direction to focus on Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc wine varietals. 3 Steves Winery has also joined this effort. Beyond the Cabernet Franc movement Steve Ziganti has been producing his 3-Cab’s Rosé blend for a few years. He took a bold risk to graft his Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Pfeffer on two acres of his vineyard in eastern Livermore (a warm area). Having used the Cabernet Pfeffer previously, he wanted to capture the essence of the grape in a Blanc mode by itself being 100%.
To show the exquisite and rarity of this offering, he used the Townsend Ranch label set aside as the reserve offering. Townsend Ranch comes from a 2,000-acre ranch from the 1800’s which part of his current property resides on. Ironically and perhaps funny, there was no Townsend family involved in the name, but instead it referred to as “Towns End” being out a way from the center of Livermore.
The Townsend Ranch series includes Sangiovese that received Best of Class and Chardonnay that won Double Gold at the SF Chronicle Wine Competition.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine best served in a Pinot Noir glass or full bowl standard wine glass, allows the aromatics to waft gently into the senses. While on the eye a subdued and almost muted light yellow, yet the viscosity is medium-heavy in the glass. On the nose, the aromatics of white pepper, roses with strawberries are dominant. On the palate is where the experience comes alive with pine and green tea. The key, unbeknownst to me before tasting was the strong pomegranate flavors, a combination of savory and a bit bitter at the same time. This is muted by the cherry, raspberry and cranberry fruits with each sip. The finish provided a slight minerality, yet all combined to provide a lasting and flavorful sip.
The grapes were whole cluster pressed, fermented in stainless steel and then aged approximately 4 months in neutral white oak barrels. The wine comes in at 13.3% alcohol. The wine is projected to sell for $65/bottle and only 120 cases were produced. The release date is scheduled for April, 2026.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine was chosen to go with seasoned roasted pork tenderloin this evening. Serendipitously, the wine and food pairing was chosen without first tasting the wine. It turned out to be spot on with a new recipe. This dish was herb encrusted pork tender with the following: olive oil, minced garlic, fresh rosemary finely chopped, fresh thyme leaves, fresh sage finely chopped, fresh oregano, Dijon mustard, kosher salt, white pepper and black pepper. The pomegranate Jus drizzled on the pork when served included pomegranate juice (unsweetened), chicken stock, dry red wine (used Cabernet Franc), honey, balsamic vinegar, unsalted butter and salt/pepper to taste. Garnished with pomegranate arils and thyme leaves. Accompanied by white rice and sautéed halved Brussel sprouts drizzled with Balsamic vinegar.
Having no “a priori” knowledge of the taste of the wine or the new food dish you could not have asked for a better pairing. A very congenial meal this evening with the pomegranate tastes both in the wine and meal.
The Winery
Photo from 3 Steves Winery website
3 Steves started with three friends ironically with the first name Steve. They received their license in early 2010. For several years they made their wines at a custom-crush facility which worked well, but they dreamed of owning their own winery and vineyard one day having responsibility from soil to bottle. In 2013, they opened our doors for the first time at 5700 Greenville Road in Livermore! I can remember visiting the winery during their first week of operation. Today Alex Wolfe is the head winemaker.
Photo from 3 Steves Winery website
Since that time various changes have occurred, but the one steadfast motto is commitment to quality. They have won many awards including SF Chronicle Best Red Wine of Show (Ancient Vine Zinfandel), Tri-Valley Conservancy Uncorked Wine Competition (Best White Wine of Show), International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition (Cabernet Franc and 3-Cabs Rosé) and a lot more, too numerous to list all here. Their awards have included Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Chardonnay and other varieties.
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly