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2016 idus de Vall Llach, An Enjoyable Priorat Wine From Spain
Where and what is Priorat?
Priorat is an area about 2 ½ hour drive west/southwest of Barcelona. Priorat consists of eleven small villages in the southern portion of Catalonia in the province of Tarragona. In comparison to the country, it is an extremely small region. Priorat is a Denominació d’Origen Qualificada (DOQa), in the southwest of Catalonia. It is one of only two wine regions in Spain to qualify as DOCa, the highest qualification level for a wine region according to Spanish wine regulations, alongside the better known Rioja DOCa.
Brief History and Background of Priorat
This wine area has over two thousand years of history from the Romans. Due to the proximity of the Iberian Peninsula, it was controlled by the Moors until the twelfth century. In this area you get a fabulous combination of architecture from the Moorish influence as well as Romanesque.
The Priorat district gets its name from the Carthusian order who founded a monastery in the region in the end of the 12th century. Interestingly, the most changes have transpired during the last 30-40 years. Winemakers in the region upgraded their methods and equipment and began a modernization and professional approach to wine.
Weather, climate and soil are the major components of this region. The wine area receives 3000 hours of sunshine and roughly 15 inches of rainfall per year. The soil in the area is rich in hard slate but the roots can go through seeking underground water. A lot of the vineyards in the area follow the terrain with terraces and steep slopes.
One of the two grapes which are used in this 2016 Vall Llach “Idus” is Grenacha (Grenache) which is the lesser grape. One of the distinct traits of the grapes from the region is its ability to produce a strong, yet fresh wine. The second grape varietal used in the making of Idus and the predominate percentage is the Cariñena in the USA called Carignan. Carignan grows very well in the drier regions of California like the Central Valley and Sierra foothills.
Typically wines from the area have intense red coloration, with aromas of ripe fruit with a strong mineral trait from the slate vineyards. In the mouth a fleshy, strong flavoring with tannins being present are common. They present black plum, licorice and have a black pepper spice quality, coupled with berry and chocolate with a smoky scent. Cariñena is a unique black skinned grape varietal. It typically is used in blending in many wines.
The 2016 Idus is multifaceted, with alluring aromas of red forest fruit, fleshy black plums, with hints of forest herbs, wood smoke and dark minerals. Wide on the palate, the wine is both powerful and fresh for an old-vine Priorat; displaying good acidity, round tannins and an incredibly long finish.
2016 idus Vall de Llach Priorat
The 2016 Idus provides multiple levels of aromas and tastes. The percentage mix is 90% Cariñena and 10% Grenacha. A dark color and medium to medium heavy viscosity is present. You immediately pick up on the palate, wood smoke from cedar and the mineral traces from the slate. It is what I describe as a representation of “old world” wine. Powerful with enough acidity to give an edge, but with round tannins so as not to overwhelm ones senses. Together they provide a long and satisfying finish. On the label it states this wine can age up to 30 years with proper storage. The wine is almost “blackish” in color with just a slight deep purple rim. This is a very strong wine and recommended to be enjoyed with food.
The Food Pairing
Paired was a seared Tri-tip Kabob marinated in Chaka sauce with pieces of purple onion, bell peppers (red, green and yellow) and pineapple. Accompanied by a Shitake mushroom with a light glaze of a sweet and sour sauce. The wine and food was an absolutely delicious pairing.
Conclusion
I hope you enjoy the side trip to Priorat as this growing region is extremely well-known in wine circles and the grape varietals Grenacha (Grenache in USA) and Cariñena (Carignan) are extremely tasty and wonderful grapes grown both in Priorat and the USA. I have for years now always kept wine from the Priorat region in the cellar for the uniqueness, quality and delightful expression of the local area.
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Dave’s Porch Wine Sauvignon Blanc and 2010 Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
My turn in the kitchen tonight for dinner with exquisite food matching wines. 2019 Dave’s Porch Wine Sauvignon Blanc and 2010 Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.
First up for appetizers some thirty fresh clams brewed in a white wine, butter, garlic and parsley sauce. Accompanied with a triple Brie cheese with mushrooms from Germany called Champignon. Spread on some fresh bakery sourdough bread. Wine paired was the 2019 Porch Wine Sauvignon with some tropical spices.
Next up were two entrees. First a flank steak wrapped around cheese, tomatoes and spinach. Served with a 2010 Robert Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Rated by various sources between 95 and 99 points! Smooth velvety tannins and aged in French barrels. Opulent and dark fruits abound. Price of the wine is anywhere from $200 to $350+ a bottle.
The other was a fresh yellow fin tuna seared on the BBQ with ground peppercorns and served rare. Topped with pineapples, Mandarin oranges, red pepper flakes and green onions. Served with the 2019 Dave’s Porch Wine Sauvignon Blanc with tropical aromas and flavors. Today’s vintage goes for $13.50 a bottle.
For me, one of the key takeaway is not the cost of the wine but what food it is paired.
Sláinte,
Michael
Gastrónomo – A True Azorean Restaurant With Food & Wine
Azores may be a group of Portuguese islands in the Atlantic, but what I discovered the last 3 weeks is that Azores really mean family and community. Families that have struggled toiling the rocky island of Pico planting vineyards, battling seasonal weather swings, enduring a tumultuous history and today enjoying the freedom of a new Azores. Today they are proudly doing it as a family and community. No where was this more exemplified than by the restaurant Gastrónomo on the island of São Miguel.
It is not an opulent setting, nor a view of the ocean but a simple local restaurant for the community and tourists seeking out an authentic culinary experience. The concierge tried to make reservations the night before but they were sold out! The charm of the restaurant was embodied by two factors. The first being the family that owned and ran the restaurant. We were greeted by a young man (son of the owner) with a grin from ear to ear that immediately disarmed you as a stranger and welcomed you to his family. We quickly met Mama, sister and tasted grandma’s homemade blackberry jam.
The second factor was the fresh fish of the day proudly displayed in the restaurant. We were encouraged and fully participated in walking up to view which seafood looked inviting for the evening meal. Choices made included squid, triggerfish and tuna. Each were served with local spices and prepared in typical Azorean fashion. All were delicious as each was shared.
The white wine, recommendation provided the perfect compliment to fish dishes enjoyed by all. It was a 2018 Mau Feitio, which had a blend and taste/aromas of both a Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in a beautifully integrated and harmonious wine. This white wine comes from the Douro region of mainland Portugal. Mau Feitio in Portuguese means a “good bad temper of qualities, expressions and righteousness”.
The second wine of the evening which functioned more like an after dinner wine, was a 2017 Fraga da Galhofa, a Grande Reserva also from the Douro region. It was a blend of Touriga National, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Alicante Bouchet. It tied for the best red wine for the trip. Worthy to seek out and purchase.
This was the a perfect crescendo to the Azorean experience-family, community, fresh foods, friends and beautiful wines. It doesn’t get much better than what we experienced.
Sláinte,
Michael
2019 Pico do Verdelho, Adega and Rocky Vineyards
Started off the day with a late lunch at Aldeia Da Fonte in Lajes on island of Pico.
Fresh fish of the day was grilled Yellowmouth Barracuda! It was so tasty and ate it like locals with olive oil and wine vinegar. Paired with a 2019 Pico do Verdelho.
Then off to very special friend of Goulart’s. Went to his adega (stone building) where families make wine, moonshine, cognac and who knows what else. Fernando makes all kinds of wine to moonshine to cognac in his tiny adega. His generosity in sharing will never be forgotten.
He has 16 hectors of grapes and fruits (figs for example) which are used in his fig moonshine for example.
One is amazed anything can grow in this rocky soil throughout the island!!
Isabela and Merlot grapes are planted on his property. Seems like half the population of Pico have their personal adega for production.
If you walk a road lined with adega’s, it is considered bad luck if you are asked to stop for a drink and don’t partake. In the short 500 yard walk, we passed at least 12 to 14. Fortunately no one was at their adega so we were safe!!!!
Sláinte,
Michael
2017 De Tierra Cabernet Franc – Best of Class at the International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition & Celebration
The Awards
At the April 2022 International Cabernet Franc Blind Wine Competition and Celebration held in Copperopolis, California, the 2017 De Tierra Vineyards Cabernet Franc won several awards. Two sets of judges presided over the tasting, one being the Professional Judges and the other being People’s Choice Judges. The People’s Choice Judges for category 3 ($51 to $75), awarded a Silver Medal and Best of Class to the 2017 De Tierra Vineyards Cabernet Franc. The Professional Judges also awarded it a medal. For more information on the Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition and Celebration click on the following links:
Blind Wine Competition: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2022/04/09/3rd-annual-cabernet-franc-wine-competition-celebration-results/
Wine Tasting & Appetizers: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2022/04/11/wine-tasting-appetizers-at-the-3rd-annual-cabernet-franc-celebration/
Winemaker’s Dinner Featuring Cabernet Franc’s: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2022/04/14/cabernet-franc-wine-competition-and-celebration-winemakers-dinner/
The Winery
The vineyard was planted in 2003 in De Tierra Valley, between Salinas and Monterey about 6 miles south of Hwy 68. The vineyard is called the Russell Estate and has been organic since the beginning. The co-owners of the winery are Dan McDonnal and Alix Lynn Bosch. The wine maker is Olivier Rousett, originally from France but has been making wine for the last 12 years in America and another 8 years previously in France. He has been with them approximately one year.
De Tierra tries to focus their production on Monterey varietals. Other wines produced by De Tierra Vineyards include: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, Sangiovese, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, three proprietary red blends and of course Cabernet Franc. All the wine varietals are small lot with only 200-300 cases per each varietal. They have gained some excellent traction in winning 2021 Gold Medal Monterey Wine Competition in 2021 with their Syrah. Ditto for their Rose. In 2022, their Chardonnay was Gold and their Riesling was rated 98 points.
Their tasting room is located in Carmel-By-The-Sea at Mission 3SE, 5th Ave in downtown Carmel.
The Wine – 2017 De Tierra Cabernet Franc
First on the eyes a deep purple hue and medium viscosity. On the nose, dark cherry and hint of smokiness. Where the wine excels is on the palate with blackberry, black tea, plum and a strong sense of trace minerals. On the finish damp musty forest meadow surrounds each sip. Missing were the strong pyrazines but such a soft rounded finish with embracing tannins makes this wine enjoyable. The wine is held in 25% new French oak and balance being various countries of neutral oak. The wine was aged two years in the barrel before bottling. The wine is listed on their website for $65/bottle. This Cabernet Franc also won a Gold Medal at the 2018 American Fine Wine Competition and scored 92 points.
The Food and Wine Pairing
The meal for the evening consisted of a tri-tip steak marinated 24 hours in a Chaka marinade, then seared on the BBQ at 650 degrees and served medium rare. Accompanying the meal was a fresh garden salad and garlic French bread. Additionally a Greek Pesto Pasta Salad was served. Ingredients for the salad included: Kosher salt, fusilli pasta, pesto sauce, extra-virgin olive oil, white wine vinegar, black pepper, feta cheese, cucumber, tomatoes, purple onions and Kalamata olives. The meal with this wine and friends was fantastic.
Looking forward to my next visit to Carmel and stopping by to taste some of their other award winning wines!
Sláinte,
Michael
2017 Unti Syrah and Carne Asada – A Summertime treat!
The Winery
Unti Vineyards is located in the Sonoma Valley, specifically in the Dry Creek Valley. The Unti Vineyards is owned and operated by Mick, Danae, George and Linda Unti. Mick manages all the winemaking, sales and marketing for the winery. Jason Valenti performs the winemaking tasks. The vineyards were planted in 1990 and the winery opened in 1997. Today they produce approximately 8,000 to 9,000 cases annually from their estate of 60 acres. The vineyards are planted with 35 acres of Syrah, Zinfandel, Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Petite Sirah, Barbera, Montepulciano, Lacrima, Fiano, Verdicchio, Grenache Blanc, Picpoul Blanc and Vermentino. The Benchland property is 25 acres and planted with Zinfandel, Syrah, Sangiovese, Aglianico, Petite Sirah, Mourvèdre and Grenache Noir.
With such a broad offering of Mediterranean style wines, each small batch is handcrafted to bring forth a sense of place. They use a combination of stainless steel, concrete tanks, large French oak ovals and small French oak barrels. Truly an artisan winery.
The Wine
The 2017 Syrah uses three blocks in the vineyard for their production release. Combining the three allows more “cool-climate aromas and flavors (blueberry, olive) reminiscent of the Northern Rhône wines Crozes-Hermitage and St. Joseph” per their website. First on the eyes, a dark radiant and iridescent purple/violet coloring in the glass with medium heavy viscosity. On the nose, blackberry and blueberry aromas waft into the senses. Once sipped, jammy fruit and lightly toasted oak fill the mouth with secondary flavors of cranberry and plum. The finish completes the tasting with multi-layers of freshness, coupled with structure and pointed, but not sharp tannins. The fruit with the most welcomed tannins came from a portion of the wine which received a whole-cluster fermentation. The wine was aged in only French oak, 35% being new for 13 months. Current release is the 2018 which 470 cases were produced and shows on their website at $38/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Dinner with this wine was a special Carne Asada. The ingredients included, fresh chopped cilantro, olive oil, soy sauce, fresh squeezed orange and lime juice, minced garlic cloves, a diced jalapeno, ground cumin, Kosher salt, ground black pepper marinated for 24 hours with a flank steak. The steak was seared at 650 degrees for about 5 minutes a side along with jalapeno peppers roasting on top of the steak. Topped off with fresh minced cilantro and a modicum of fresh squeezed lime juice. Accompanying the meal was Mexican street corn off the cob. Ingredients included unsalted butter, ears of corn (shucked and kernels removed), mayonnaise, grated cotija cheese, smoked paprika, green onion finely chopped, fresh parsley and seasoned to taste with salt & pepper. Cooked in a cast iron skillet to a light charred finished.
The Carne Asada was flavorful and spicy without being too red-hot! A drizzle of fresh squeezed lime juice topped off the meat along with the bbq’ed jalapeno. This is now one of our go to summer food pairings. This wine received one of my highest scores ever given to a Syrah! It will definitely make my “Best Wines Tasted This Year” (comes out each December) in 2022.
I have not visited or tasted any of the other Unti Vineyards wines, but look forward at some point to tasting their Aglianico, Petit Sirah and Picpoul Blanc. A visit is surely on my near term calendar!
Slainte,
Michael
2019 Dracaena Cab Franc – A guest post by Jameson, the four legged human
It is customary for me to accompany my owner, Michael Kelly into the wine cellar. What many people don’t know is that I am the one to pick out the wine!! So last evening to enjoy on the patio, I selected a 2019 Dracaena Cabernet Franc from Paso Robles. While I have not traveled to Paso Robles, often staying locally at the Doggie Resort & Spa for multi day trips. I have heard great reviews on many wines from the area. I overheard my owners talking about how Dracaena had won two out of three years Best of Class and Best of Show at the International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition & Celebration held in April each year. While as a dog, prefer to be called a four legged human, not drinking wine, I don’t understand the big deal. I have however visited over 300 wineries and can attest to good bushes to relieve myself, best dog treats and who continually refreshes their dog water bowl. Michael told me should I take up reading, this is an excellent review of their wine:
Michael also mentioned to me that this small artisan and boutique winery is definitely getting noticed with winning a Gold Medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition for their 2019 Cabernet Franc. They have also won at the 2022 Los Angeles Invitational Wine and Spirits Challenge a Gold Medal and Best of Show for their Chenin Blanc.
My only beef with Dracaena Wines is how do I get my picture on that label??
Sláinte,
Jameson
Crystal Basin Cellars – Creativity, Hospitality and Solid Wines Abound
Background
Met Mike Owen, the winemaker and owner of Crystal Basin Cellars a few years back. He had asked me to come up to Camino to see his winery several times. Due to Covid and subsequent variants, it kept getting pushed out. Finally agreed to meet him in June and I couldn’t have been more pleased! Spent a little over two hours and could have spent two days with his engaging personality.
The Winery
Crystal Basin Cellars is located in Camino on Highway 50 halfway between Sacramento and Lake Tahoe. Generally speaking, once you’ve seen lots of wineries, you have a basic idea of what to expect. Surprised at first as we drove up to a 1940’s building with 8 inch walls stuffed with sawdust (old fashion building kind of installation) which is perfect for keeping the barrel room cool. This is not a glamourous building like so many shrines of opulence in Napa Valley, it truly is rustic, funky and charming all rolled up into one facility. They are located in an 80 year old building that had been a pear barn, a box manufacturing facility, an apple barn and now production facility for Crystal Basin Cellars. They were in fact the second winery to be licensed in El Dorado County after Prohibition.
Mike and his wine making and hospitality staff follow a simple mandate: “provide a wine tasting experience that is one part fun, one part information, and a price-to-value that is second to none”. Today they make some 39 award winning wines. They current have 16 Gold Medal winners in their line up! The goal of the winery is to showcase wines made with grapes from within 30 miles of the winery. El Dorado is a unique AVA due to its elevation changes from 1100 to 3300 foot elevation changes. It has your typical Sierra foothill varietals, yet some are unique and offered in different packaging. All the wines are aged 18 months in oak and can be laid down to age 3 to 5 years.
The Winemaker/ Owner
Mike will talk with you extensively about Crystal Basin Cellars and the Folsom Wine Festival which he co-founded, but actually for an extrovert, somewhat modest about himself. Mike made wine from an early age for personal consumption for 12 years and founded the commercial winery in 2000 after leaving Silicon Valley. His creative genius is shown with all his wine varietals. They include: Barbera, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Malbec, Merlot, Mourvedre, Petite Sirah, Primitivo, Sangiovese, Syrah, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Sparkling wines, Chardonnay, Fiano, Sauvignon Blanc and many more. A wine for one and all. Additionally, besides being a solid wine maker, his astute business acumen is shown with a line called Bagnum Pouch Wines. Having a long discussion on Millennials, Gen X, Y & Z, etc., and their impact on the wine industry, Mike developed this line of product. The packaging allows the wine to remains fresh for 30 days.
Wine Tasting
While Mike wanted me to taste all 39 wines, I had to limit the tastings. The key four wines of the 10 or so tried were the 2018 Mourvedre, 2017 Cabernet Franc, 2020 Nebbiolo (yet to be released) and the 2017 Quijote a blend of 60% Tempranillo and 40% Grenache.
The 2017 Quijote is a wine of immense beauty and grace. Not a light fluffy wine, dark and luscious with a brawny sense of purpose, but so easy to drink. Delicious is a word that only starts the tasting experience. It falls within the label line up called Ascendance Grand Reserve Reds. Truly this wine could be your welcoming wine should you ascend to heaven! If you are in doubt of your “after death travel plans” I would suggest purchasing a bottle now!
The next wine which was equally startling was the 2020 Nebbiolo. Just the nose alone transported you to the hillsides of Piedmont, Italy where Nebbiolo home base is located. The taste of red cherries and raspberries burst on the palate. The long lasting finish provided both a soft leather and luscious mineral quality, reminding one of its origins in Italy. The tannins were structured and evident, yet gentle enough to enjoy each sip.
I already had some Cabernet Franc at home, but these two ended up in the cellar to be enjoyed with just the right food pairing and with friends. By the way, they also have a tasting room in Folsom should you not want to drive up to Camino.
The visit was so long in coming and when I left, I was so impressed with the wines and his philosophy of winemaking, hospitality, etc., I mentioned to my wife, I wished we lived closer to Mike.
Sláinte,
Michael
2021 Albamar Chardonnay – Quality Wine With A Unique Twist
This wine label from William Cole Winery in the Casablanca Valley, Chile is unique. What makes it stand out from other Chardonnays is its strong citrus profile. More on this later in the story. The Casablanca area is often referred to as “Chile’s Burgundy”. The cool climate vineyard near the cost provides a long growing season with cool evenings, producing wines that are crisp and clean. This is similar to the Central Coast and Russian River areas in California. The Albamar label denotes the foggy sunrise of the valley (“alba” means sunrise) and the cooling ocean breezes (mar meaning ocean). The cooling evenings allow the wines to have a solid acidity providing both freshness and brightness on the palate.
First on the eyes a light straw color and medium viscosity. But don’t be fooled, this is a powerhouse of a Chardonnay wine! The wine has beautiful floral qualities, followed with flavors of pear and peach. The crispness and mineral characteristics are more akin to a Sauvignon Blanc than a Chardonnay, yet the floral and fruit is more aligned with a Chardonnay. Thus the unique and great quality of this wine! So refreshing this late afternoon with a smoked honey roasted salmon, topped with cream cheese, diced purple onion, capers and a freshly baked baguette. The perfect treat on a warm summer day.
An extremely worthy and relatively inexpensive wine to be enjoyed this summer and perhaps anytime of the year!
Sláinte,
Michael
Noche Española at Verona 18 Restaurant
Last evening Noche Española was put on by Verona18 at the Copper Valley Golf Course Grandview room. Jaime Alderete, Executive Chef and part of the new management team, prepared some excellent and creative dishes for the evening. This was the new management’s first wine pairing dinner and it was a solid effort by all involved.
Upon entering the Grandview room, you were treated to 2018 Juan Gil Jumilla Blanco white wine. This is from 100% Moscatel grapes from the northern portion Jumilla. This area is just north of Murcia in the southeast of Spain. This wine is a light straw color on the eyes. Aromatic included both Jasmine and honeysuckle. On the palate a very dry acidic taste with gnarly mineral flavors with a soft finish of lemon. This was paired with Manchega, Jamon Serranto and slices of spicy chorizo.
Next up was a 2018 Albariño from O’Fillo da Condesa from Rias Baixas. The area is located in the northwestern area of Spain near Portugal. This wine on the eyes was a bright golden yellow. On the nose, orange blossom, lime and lemon zest. On the palate, grapefruit, salt and a tingly finish. One of the better Albariño I have tasted in the last year. This was paired with Gambas al Ajillo (garlic shrimp) and Patatas Bravas (spicy potatoes). No idea what was in the sauce, but our entire table fell in love with the shrimp! The wine and shrimp provided the best pairing of the evening.
We then moved on to Spanish summer salad called Ensalada Verano de Espana. The salad was tasty but the dressing desensitized any wine pairing. This was more of an intermezzo, so nothing was lost.
This was followed up by one of the more creative Gazpacho (cold tomato soup) dishes I have experienced. This was paired with a 2017 Tridente Tempranillo using 100% Tempranillo grapes. This comes from the Castilla y Leon region about a 2 hour drive north from Madrid. The wine is dry farmed and then aged 15 months in French oak. A symphony of aromas and tastes filled the nose and palate. Blackberries, plum, leather, cedar and oak swirled around with beckoning enticement to sip the wine.
Now for a dish of Paella Valenciana with Saffron Risotto. This is a tradition dish from the Valencia region with ingredients including bell pepper, chicken, paprika, green beans, tomato, saffron, rosemary, seafood and other spices. While rabbit is commonly found in this dish, I don’t recall eating or seeing any! The wine pairing included a 2016 Atteca Granacha “Old Vines” and 2017 Termes Tinto de Toro, Tempranillo. Both wines were delicious and the Granacha “Old Vines” provided raspberry, cocoa, vanilla and black licorice. The Termes Tinto de Toro, meaning blood of the bull, is obviously very dark in color with flavors of black cherry, earthiness and pepper. This is balanced out with plum and boysenberry on the finish. Both wines were enjoyable with the Paella.
The grand finale was the Crema Catalano, crème brûlée. Topped with blueberries, raspberries and sprinkled with powdered sugar! This was a beautifully orchestrated and welcomed semi-sweet dessert after the Spanish meal. This was served with a choice of Vino Dulce de Pasas, Pedro Ximenez de Cosecha and/or Licor Cuarenta Y Tres (43), Diego Zamora.
Live Spanish guitar music filled the background from the talented Nicholas Lefler.
Everyone was genuinely impressed by the foods from Jaime Alderete and wines offered by Verona18. A lovely culinary excursion through Spain. A hint was leaked that in August a French themed dinner may occur.
Sláinte,
Michael