Month: September 2024
2016 Palazzo Wine Cabernet Franc – Ultra Smooth and Silky
The Winery
Picture from Palazzo website
Scott Palazzo’s background is both unique and fascinating how he ended up being a winemaker. Scott grew up in an Italian family which influenced both his understanding of wine as an everyday event as well as with food and celebrations. At age 19, Scott set out with his guitar on his back and ended up in Europe. There he ended up in Saint Émilion (on the Right Bank of Bordeaux’s Gironde River). This became his wine paramount experience shaping his palate for years to come and the foundation for Palazzo Wine some 20+ years later. In 2003, after establishing a career as a television director/producer (nominated Grammy for Music Video & Television Director/Producer), he began searching for a similar terroir that he enjoyed while living in Saint Émilion.
Key to his success was his charismatic and energetic personality! Scott combined his experience with Old World wine in the cellar with New World fruit from lower Napa Valley rolling hills. Today his wines are featured by some of the wine world’s most famous restaurants. A small partial listing is French Laundry, Gary Danko, Michael Mina, Per, Daniel, Gramercy Tavern, Eleven Madison Park, Spago, Bouchon, Mastro’s Steakhouse, Emeril’s, Valintino’s, etc. The full list of restaurants can be found on his website, suffice to say, in any major city, find a prestigious restaurant and you will find Palazzo Wine!
Today Scott’s portfolio of wines includes his Master Blend Series (Left Bank Cuvee, Chardonnay, Rosé) and Reserve Wine Series (Cuvee Blanc, Right Bank Blend, Cabernet Franc).
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Scott started making his Cabernet Franc exclusively for The French Laundry in Yountville. This catapulted his wine instantly to “cult status”. The 2016 vintage is his current release of Cabernet Franc. On the eyes, this is a very deep crimson red color with medium-heavy viscosity. What wafts into the nose is a symphony of aromas from floral notes of crushed violets to red fruits like cherries and raspberries. Once entering the mouth all parts of the orchestrated flavors burst into a flavor profile like the 1812 Overture. Red and black cherries, subtle spices like pepper are counterbalanced with hints of dark chocolate. On the finish only a hint of pyrazines, this wine is vibrant, yet silky smooth beckoning one to take another sip. Structured and defined layers with silky smooth tannins are present. One of the smoothest finishes on a world class Cabernet Franc I have tasted. This wine has 14.1% alcohol. The current release is 2016 and priced at $115 and rated 96 points by Wine Advocate.
Sláinte,
Michael
2022 Vermilion Valley Vineyards Pinot Noir Rosé – A Delightful Surprise!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Winery
Picture from Vermilion Valley Vineyards
Recently I have authored several stories on Vermilion Valley Vineyards and The Winerie at Sandusky (both labels are the same ownership and winemaker). The Vermilion Valley story was on how delicious their Pinot Noir and who knew that quality of Pinot Noir could be grown in Ohio.
The second story was on a wine seldom seen in California that many have never tasted, Lemberger wine.
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2024/03/10/the-winerie-at-sandusky-2021-lemberger-wine
Vermilion Valley Vineyards has one hundred planted acres in four different locations. With microclimates, this allows all his wines to be 100% estate grown. What is interesting about Ohio is that 370 wineries exist but only nine hundred acres of grapes are planted! Doing the simple math, removing the five largest vineyards in the state, you are left with each winery having a one-acre parcel! Thus, many wineries in Ohio rely on importing juice from various areas like the Central Valley of California and Washington. That is one of the unique characteristics of Vermilion Valley Vineyards and their estate wines.
Currently they produce the following red wines: Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Dorsa, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lemberger, Chambourcin, Dornfelder, Nebbiolo, Malbec, Pinotage, and Merlot. Ditto for their white wines producing: Muscat Ottonel, Riesling. Gruner Veltliner, Müller-Thurgau, Traminette, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Valvin Muscat, Ribola Gialla, Petit Manseng, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Albariño, Pinot Blanc and Arneis. That is a wide variety of wines and all estate grown!
You can read their webpage about their important level of sustainability incorporating land use and their buildings. Link at the bottom of the page
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
In full disclosure, any Rosé is not my go to type of wine. I don’t have any in my cellar and have never purchased a Rosé. So now I am writing about this one! Joe had sent me this bottle and I held off opening it as long as I could to taste it, and if good I would write about it. I now wasted a complete summer not enjoying this delicious wine!
First on the eyes a translucent and curious copper color and light viscosity. On nose strawberry was the dominant aroma. Now on the palate, this wine bursts forth with flavors of cantaloupe, brioche and nectarine. A light flavorful wine with more punch than expected in a Rosé. The finish was cool and refreshing, especially with the meal we enjoyed with it. A strong minerality and stone fruit completed the tasting experience and was very dry. It is 12% alcohol.
The wine lists for $18/bottle and for this robust flavor and taste I would buy a bottle! Joe may have moved me off my stance on Rosé wines!
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this wine as I thought a lighter wine with the meal would work this evening. The dinner was chicken stir fry with some unique ingredients. The stir fry sauce used soy sauce, chicken broth, corn starch, honey, minced ginger, minced garlic, and Momofuku Chili Crunch. The stir fry portion with the chicken pieces also included broccoli, Ramon Noodles, and cashews. Topped off with sesame seeds for a tasty and spicy dish. The wine served chilled was perfect combating the heat of the food and added a soothing touch to the food as well as introducing fruit flavors. An excellent food and wine pairing.
Sláinte,
Michael
2022 Wood Family Vineyards “Against The Grain” Red Blend Aged in Bourbon Barrels
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The History of Using Bourbon Barrels For Wine
In the early 1980’s, American oak barrels where expensive for many start up wineries. By law bourbon barrels must be 100% American oak and can only be used one time to distill bourbon in the United States. So, after their use, many barrels became available for “other distilled spirits” and wineries to purchase at a fraction of the price of new French or new American oak barrels. So why doesn’t everyone purchase used bourbon barrels? Key is that whiskey barrels are produced differently than wine barrels. Whiskey barrels are charred on the inside verses wine barrels which are toasted. By only toasting wine barrels, the wine while aging develops many nuances of flavor. Bourbon barrel aged wines tend to be bold with ripe reds, vanilla, smoky and with muted tannins.
Picture from iStock https://www.istockphoto.com/
The use of bourbon barrel aging has taken off recently with more wineries using these barrels. Some view it as a trend to attract Millennials who buy whiskies. Others view it as a cross over from spirits to wine and yet the resulting wine is unique, smooth and provides an enjoyable sipping experience. This market is exploding due to the flavor profile not just with Millennials but with wine aficionados looking to enhance their experience. This is now an important wine segment statement by the Wine Industry Advisor. It is estimated that 20 million bottles of aged bourbon barrel wines are sold annually. Today 60 brands offer a Bourbon Barrel Aged red wine.
A Senior VP for Southeastern Grocers had this insight “customers who prefer bold wines tend to prefer this selection during the peak barbeque months of summer, and the cool months of winter”. Also riding the coat tails of the large increase of Bourbon sales due to the “alphabet generations” has help spur this upward trend in wine sales. Additionally, according to the Bourbon Women’s Association, their figures show it doubling from 15% thirty years ago to today and they too are discovering bourbon barrel aged wines.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Last evening tried the pre-released 2022 “Against The Grain” that uses the following varietals: 40% Cabernet Franc, 30% Petit Verdot, 25% Malbec and 5% Petite Sirah. Each year it is a different blend. All the components of the blend are aged in traditional wine barrels (30% new and mostly French oak) before blending and transferring to the bourbon barrels. The first year of Wood Family Vineyards production in 2016 was 43 cases. They have steadily increased production with the 2022 being 90 cases. This year Rhonda Wood could only secure4 “new/used” bourbon barrels to infuse her wine! This vintage was aged nine weeks in bourbon barrels.
When you use the four varietals above, here is a quick breakdown of each varietal contributions:
Cabernet Franc: Red fruit, dried fruit flavors, lower tannins, can have a green bell pepper flavor.
Petit Verdot: Blackberries, plums, blueberries, licorice, mocha, vanilla
Malbec: Jamy, coffee, leather, black peppers, vanilla, slight tobacco, smoky
Petite Sirah: Blackberry, plums, blueberries, earth elements, lots of tannins, dark coloring
Now add in the bourbon barrel influence and the totality of flavors combined provide an intriguing and full mouth filling of wonderment. This wine is like a philharmonic symphony with the emphasis on philharmonic meaning “love of harmony” as it is with this wine. The symphony is the culmination of each part playing a distinct role and flavor profile to make a “whole” experience. The sum is greater than the parts!
The wine on the eyes was a cavernous and dark purple color with medium heavy viscosity. On the nose, the aromas of bold blackberry and blueberries rose to the olfactory sense. On the palate, the aforementioned fruits along with leather, vanilla and a smoky quality dominate. On the finish almost hidden soft velvety tannins combined with vanilla from the wine and barrel provided a noticeable Bourbon quality without overpowering the wine with a slightly “sweet” conclusion.
This year’s wine comes in at 15% alcohol versus last year’s 15.8%. The previous vintage sold out early last year and this vintage will be released on the 27th of October at $45/bottle.
This wine has made my annual Best Wines Tasted during the year since the first production and will again this year.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The food pairing this evening was with a seared and BBQ’ed filet mignon to a radiant pink medium rare level. Served with Danish Blue Cheese sprinkled on top. Accompanied by twice baked Russet potatoes covered with cheddar cheese. Also prepared were sautéed asparagus and mushrooms. A side salad consisting of butter lettuce, green onions, sliced Castelvetrano olives topped with toasted almond slivers and Parmesan cheese.
A wonderful food and wine pairing that went extremely well together. Other pairings done with previous vintages include short ribs, ribeye steak jalapeño meatloaf and BBQ’ed burgers. I can’t think of any red meat dish not going well with this wine.
Sláinte,
Michael
Wine Tasting, A Warm Night, Chinese Food, 2023 Chardonnay and REUSACUBE
Went to a wine tasting of Morgan Wines in Angels Camp at The Cellar last evening. Tasted their Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and a modified GSM blend. Then decided since we were in the “Big City” (population 3,786) with a least a couple of choices of restaurants, went to Far East China restaurant. Ordered a combo fried rice, orange chicken and honey walnut prawns. Just had water with the meal as we needed to drive home so no wine pairing.
Photos ©Michael Kelly
Once home opened a bottle of one of our favorite Chardonnay wines, Wood Family Vineyards.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Since it was warm both in the house and outside, we opted to try some recently acquired REUSACUBE squares to keep the wine in the glass chilled. The full story was published earlier at:
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The REUSACUBE worked like a charm to chill the Chardonnay in the glass and we settled in for the evening with chilled Chardonnay, watched a little television and munched on left over Chinese food.
Sláinte,
Michael
2020 Iron Hub “Old Vine” Zinfandel
Background
Went to Iron Hub a couple of months back to purchase their “Clockspring Vineyard” Zinfandel and Chardonnay. While there we did a side by side tasting of their “Old Vine” and “Clockspring” Zinfandels. While I had already made a proclamation that Clockspring made my Best Wines tasted in the year, I was not expecting their “Old Vine” to be much of a match. Was I wrong! I came home with several bottles of “Old Vine” much to my liking and of course the Chardonnay.
The Winery
Photo from Iron Hub website
The winery was founded by Tom Jones from Lava Cap Winery fame in the Apple Hill area near Placerville. Tom completed his master’s degree in Viticulture & Enology from UC Davis, and for almost 30 years developed award-winning wines. Tom and his wife Beth’s new endeavor began in 2014 with the purchase of the 33-acre property that had been known as Amador Foothill Winery. Having control of the grapes from vineyard to bottle was key in his quest for quality control with 17 acres planted in vines.
The name of the winery came about from Tom’s mountain sojourns in the area. On an adventure he discovered an antique, hand-forged wagon wheel hub in a remote area. This small winery on Steiner Road drew a parallel with his goal of making small lot artisan wines like the craftsmanship of the “iron hub” he found on a walk. The beautiful new tasting room was opened in December 2017.
Photo from Iron Hub website
Spencer, their son, following in his father’s footsteps by also graduating from UC Davis with a master’s degree from the Department of Viticulture and Enology, is the winery’s Assistant winemaker. Today, they form a dynamic father-son winemaking team. Tom and Spencer enjoy and demand a hands-on approach to every aspect of the winemaking process, from tending the grapes in the estate vineyards to carefully crafting both red and white wines. They recently added 10 acres managing the Spanish Creek site they are leasing. Having now 27 acres of “estate property” to manage is keeping them very busy. Tom has stated that “Our estate affords me creative control from the vine to the bottle”
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine on eyes was like “Clockspring” but a shade or two darker and more mysterious. On the nose intense dark cherries and blackberries. On the palate, ripe juicy plums and soft pipe tobacco. On the finish the dominant flavor was vanilla counterbalanced by clove and vanilla notes. Layers and layers of spice and unexpected joy provide a lingering finish.
The “Old Vine” vintage includes 10% Barbera, 4% Mourvedre, 2% Grenache and 1% Syrah. It is listed at $38/bottle and comes in at 15.9% alcohol. It is aged 15 months in oak barrels. The grapes come from the nearby Oakmont Vineyard where the vines are 80 years of age.
So, without a doubt this Zinfandel from Iron Hub makes my annual Best Wines tasted during the year! That list comes out each December. This also means it is now a “stocked commodity” in the cellar.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Pulled this “Old Vine” Zinfandel to enjoy with a straightforward spaghetti dinner. The meal was a combination of marinara sauce being the base and all kinds of spices and ground beef added. Whole wheat spaghetti noodles were the pasta. Topped with fresh shredded mozzarella cheese. This Zinfandel with its acidity, tannins and spicy notes complemented the spaghetti and meat sauce. Zinfandel is a key match to a zesty tomato-based sauce. An excellent food and wine pairing this evening.
Sláinte,
Michael
Napa Valley – Customer Service: The Good and The Bad
A Little Background
Customer Service in Napa Valley has generally been above criticism. The Napa Valley wine industry represents roughly $2.3 billion in revenue yearly. One of the inherent issues with the wine industry is trichloroanisole, a chemical compound that can alter a wine’s flavor, scent and aroma or “TCA” found in cork. This pesty and persistent mold in corks has been greatly eradicated but on occasion it does happen approximately between 3-5% of the time. I have been fortunate in buying wine from all over the world. But most purchases for 50 years have come from Napa Valley and would not like to begin to total the amount and number of wineries. Suffice to state it is significant. During this time, I have been fortunate in having only 5 or 6 bottles that have been corked coming from Napa Valley. On those rare occasions I have simply contacted the winery and have had a bottle substituted. A straightforward transaction.
I have prided myself on only writing positive wine reviews. If a wine meets close to the bullseye of the intended tasting characteristics of the varietal, I am happy to provide a review and generally talk about the winery, the wine being reviewed and a food and wine pairing. If the wine is “off”, for example with “Noble Rot” or Botrytis or BRETT, I inform the winery, pour the bottle of wine is poured down the drain and end of story. I often will have a professional winemaker provide a second opinion if in doubt. My target is generally small and boutique wines and wineries for my writing. However, I am also a collector and have purchased from many “large, well-known wineries” that produce excellent wines. I also have purchased from focus and high-end wine shops over the years.
The Positive
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Over the last twelve months I have opened two older vintages stored in prime cellar conditions for the last 30 years in optimum temperature and humidity conditions. Last week I opened a 2005 Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. It was corked. I sent an email off to their “customer service desk” and the next working day called to confirm they received my email. I spoke to an engaging and helpful person named Ann. She had just received the forwarded email and read about my background as a collector, current wine judge, Founder of International Cabernet Franc Competition, published national wine writer, etc. So, my background and credentials were understood. I outlined the event from the weekend opening this bottle for a special occasion with my wife. Unfortunately, the bottle was affected by TCA and the cork reeked with the smell of gym socks after a football game! I had kept the greater portion of the wine sealed and the cork in a plastic bag should they want me to send it back to them. While Ann did not have a replacement 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, she was quickly apologetic and offered to send me out a replacement bottle of the current vintage. Simple and the way I anticipated a good customer should be treated in such a transaction/issue. I got confirmation of the impending shipment the next business day from Silver Oak. Bravo Silver Oak for hiring the right person in Ann, having a customer service organization worthy of your reputation and confirming why you are an outstanding winery besides just the wine.
The Negative
Again, I have yet in 15 years of wine writing, written a “negative review” but this has been a sore spot for months and the above excellent example exasperated and contrasted how it should be done. And thus, the reason for this story being written and coming to light.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Back on September 5th 2023, on another special occasion, I opened a 2011 Beaulieu Vineyards Georges DeLatour Cabernet Sauvignon and it was corked. Like the above story incident, I sent an email the next day, September 6th to the appropriate personnel at the winery. I called a couple days later as I did not get a response. Then fully 12 days later, I sent another email as still had not heard back with a response. I then called their customer service personnel. She was very pleasant but had to refer it to her management for direction. She mentioned that someone would be back to me within a couple days. Another week went by, and I called the person again. She was aghast that no one had contacted me, and I was given a name of the Tasting Room Manager who would assist me. We finally spoke and having outlined a similar story about the wine being corked and having previously the same vintage on April 26th, 2023 (I keep a logbook of all wines tasted with personal notes and my scoring), which was very good and enjoyable, stated he would be able to help me. However, this optimism was soon crushed when he asked if I had the receipt of when or where I purchased the wine if not from the winery. Having moved twice since purchasing the wine and generally not in the habit of keeping the receipts, I mentioned no I did not. He boldly stated it was their policy not to replace wine that was affected by TCA even if I sent the cork and remainder of the bottle for their labs to test!! While offering me a “free tasting” next time I happen to be in Napa Valley did nothing to remedy my loss of the wine.
Now this was the first and only time out of the 5 or 6 times in 50 years having requested a “new bottle” that I was not accommodated and asked for what I believe is an odd requirement to have the receipt for a wine purchased some ten years prior.
The Conclusion
Wine corks having TCA percentage has come down rapidly with new technologies detecting in advance the mold/fungus and wineries using synthetic, plastic or hybrid corks (pieces of cork) is all very positive in curtailing this issue. Some say today it now can be as low as 1%. In the meantime, especially with these two contrasting ways of solving a simple issue, I will continue to support and keep in the cellar Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. As for Beaulieu Vineyards and their generally excellent Georges DeLatour Cabernet Sauvignon, you have seen the last of my support on your horrible customer service. This recap of the corked wine will not cause them to file bankruptcy or cause any ripple in their operations. Maybe, just maybe a few of the thousands of readers of this will consider your poor customer service and will also select a Cabernet from another vendor. So, you Beaulieu Vineyards should understand that consumers, collectors, wine writers and others have choices and will make those choices not only on the quality of wine, but how a winery treats their customers.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
My personal recap is over, and I will be happily drinking a wonderful Cabernet Sauvignon this evening from one of the better wineries of Napa Valley who value their customers, as I have plenty to choose from!
Sláinte,
Michael
2018 Smith-Madrone Vineyards Riesling – A Slice of Heaven on Spring Mountain
The Winery
Looking east across the upper Napa Valley Photo ©Michael Kelly
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The Founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate grown and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Annual production is between 3,000 to 4,000 cases a year. Currently they are producing Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc).
A quick background on Riesling shows it is the 20th most grown variety and in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the “top three” white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted worldwide” per Wikipedia. Riesling is adaptable to growing in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of citrus and peach notes for warm, apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.
In the California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush white wine harvest in 2023 was 1,709,270 tons. Riesling was only 34,057 tons, but it showed an increase of 6% outpacing Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
Stuart on the left and Charlie on the right Photo ©Michael Kelly
While producing various wine varietals, they are known for their dry and exotic Riesling throughout the world! On this recent visit, I was given the opportunity to taste various previous vintages to access their aging ability. It was startling how well a solidly produced Riesling can endure having tasted 2003, 2010 and 2019 from Smith-Madrone.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2018 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apple on the nose. A light radiant golden yellow color and medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lime, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the lime citrus. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity is jovial and enticing with a semi-sweet crescendo. Very low residual sugar (.7%) and coming in at 13.3% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,611 cases. The current release is their 2019 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Chose this wine for this evening’s meal of seared Ahi tuna. Rubbed with soy sauce and patted on all sides with a combination of black & white sesame seed, black pepper, garlic salt and sugar. Then placed on the 1500-degree BBQ for one and a half minutes on each side including edges. Plated on an Asian chopped salad/cabbage with Asian dressing. Pineapple slices placed on top of salad and the cut slices of Ahi tuna placed on top. Drizzled with a homemade wasabi, ginger, honey and lemon sauce. Then garnished with slices of green onions and cilantro. This was an enjoyable food and wine pairing with the Riesling being crisp with sufficient acidity to complement the delicate flavors of the tuna.
This wine along with their 2019 both made my annual Best Tasted during the year 2024. That list comes out mid-December and represents about 2% of the wines tasted during the year.
Sláinte,
Michael
2022 Barra Reserve Pinot Noir and Perhaps Not a Common Food Pairing
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
BARRA of Mendocino has a new label for their line of Reserve wines which are all CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers). It is in honor of a historic oak tree found on its home ranch on the Redwood Valley Vineyards. It is both foiled oak and grape leaves, embossed on a black background. On the back of the bottle, it states it is symbolic of their 70-year history making wine as in “Like an old oak tree, our roots run deep”. Martha Barra, winery owner and co-founder states “A powerful icon in our vineyards, the oak tree represents wisdom and knowledge, strength and endurance, stability and honesty”.
Photo from Barra website
Charlie followed his father and maternal grandfather who migrated to Mendocino County from Piedmont, Italy in 1906. Charlie began farming grapes in the mid 1940’s and in 1954 purchased Redwood Valley Vineyards. He worked vigorously with Karl Wente, Robert Mondavi and others to be one of the first growers of many varietals planted on the North Coast. Today the ranch grows organically Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Muscat Canelli. Besides the BARRA of Mendocino label, they have two other labels, Girasole Vineyards and CORO Mendocino. Charlie passed away in 2019 and his wife Martha who worked with him for almost 40 years, is heading the family winery which now stands at 350 acres and a 2.8-million-gallon custom crush facility. They launched the BARRA of Mendocino Brand in 1997 and the Girasole Brand in 2003. Their son and daughter also have major responsibilities to keep the “family farm” running.
For more on BARRA’s CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers) and Charlie’s 55-year history developing the land click below for details at:
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This was truly a surprisingly good wine! It was rated 90 points by Wine Enthusiast and 93 points by Northcoast Wine Challenge. The wine came from two vineyards and was handpicked, destemmed, crushed and moved to stainless steel tanks. Here it went through primary and secondary fermentation. Then racked to 25% new French oak barrels and the balance being neutral. The alcohol level came in at 14.5% with 996 cases being produced. The astonishing fact besides the solid taste is that it is sold for $26/bottle!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
On the eyes it is ruby red and semi-translucent with medium viscosity. On the nose strong aromas of black cherry and secondary hints of raspberry. With the first sip, just a faint typical strawberry presence, but that is quickly overcome with rich and luscious black berry and red licorice. Noted on the finish was a refreshing minerality and vanilla. Picked up a slight “cotton candy” element. The wine, while not sweet, had a distinct fruit quality that helped in the food pairing.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with baked chicken enchiladas. The chicken was first pressure cooked with salsa and taco seasoning. Then wrapped in a flour tortilla and baked. The ingredients included corn kernels, cumin, dried oregano, cayenne, salt & pepper and thinly sliced scallions. Plated with a freshly prepared Pico De Gallo. It called for cream cheese and topped with cheddar cheese, but I did not choose this option. Accompanied by a sweet yellow corn and a fresh Santa Fe chicken salad with iceberg lettuce, chicken, roasted corn, cheese and tortilla chips.
While the meal was not new to us, the food and wine pairing was a bit risky. The balancing of the dish’s rich and savory and slightly spicy flavors was spectacular. Loire Pinot Noir was a suggestion and having the Barra from Mendocino, a bit “lighter & sweeter” with cherry and raspberry, provided a great counterbalance to the chicken enchilada. Also serving it slightly chilled allowed for the coolness of the wine to encapsulate and calm down the spicy Pico De Gallo.
This was a great food and wine pairing and reminded me of the anonymous quote “Adventure may hurt you, but monotony will kill you”. This experiment was a success!
Sláinte,
Michael
2023 Quady North “Pistoleta” White Rhone Blend
Photo from Quady North website
Background
At the 5th International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition & Celebration, Quady North won Best of Show from both the Professional and People’s Choice Judges in the Specialty Division. Both sets of judges also awarded them a Silver Medal. The Specialty Division included Cabernet Franc Blanc, Sparkling and other presentations representing a minimum of 50% Cabernet Franc grapes.
Quady North DTC Manager Jorden Smith who I worked with on their Cabernet Franc submission, mentioned they had a white Rhone blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier. I stated that a 50/50 Marsanne and Roussanne blend is one of my favorites. A week or so later, a bottle arrived for me for a review.
The Winery
The winery was founded in 2005 when Andrew and Laurel Quady partnered with their son, Herb. They are located on a 100-acre estate vineyard in the Applegate Valley of Southern Oregon. The winery is known for the Rhone varieties of Syrah and Viognier as well as their Cabernet Franc. They also source from other vineyards in Southern Oregon as the warmer temperatures are found there. They are committed to small lot production to showcase the expressive vineyards of Southern Oregon.
Photo from Quady North website
Herb and his wife Meloney made their first vintage in 2006. Herb was working as the winemaker at Troon Vineyard. The original planting was named “Mae’s Vineyard” after their eldest daughter Margaux Mae. In this vineyard, Syrah, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Tannat, Malbec and Orange Muscato were planted. In 2011 a second planting was named for the younger daughter Serafina Eevee and planted with Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Cabernet Franc, Grenache Noir and Malvasia Bianca. Both vineyards are certified sustainable and Certified Organic.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This is their 13th vintage of Pistoleta and is a Rhone white blend made with 36% Viognier, 29% Roussanne, 28% Marsanne, 4% Vermentino and 3% Grenache Blanc. Each grape varietal contributes to the gestalt experience of partaking of the wine. The breakdown of each major varietal key characteristics is as follows:
Viognier (36%): A lighter flavors of tangerine, mango and honeysuckle with creamier aromas of vanilla with spices of nutmeg and clove. Often just a hint of bitterness.
Roussanne (29%): Known for their complex flavors and aromas of honey, floral notes, apricots, stone fruit aromas and poached pear, lemongrass and apple dominate. Key is the full body and oily texture which is always evident.
Marsanne (28%): Fresh citrus, toast, marzipan and honeysuckle. It is low in acidity and is weighty.
Two other varietals were used of 4% Vermentino and 3% Grenache Blanc. The last two are for minor adjustments in the flavor profile. The three main varietals were wonderful and dominate in the palate.
This wine is like a philharmonic symphony with the emphasis on philharmonic meaning “love of harmony” as it is with this wine. The symphony is the culmination of each part playing a distinct role and flavor profile to make a “whole” experience.
Wine Enthusiast rated it 92 points and “Editor’s Choice” for the previous vintage. Whole cluster pressed and primary fermentation in stainless steel and 16% with Acacia & French oak barrels. The lees stirred to promote body and then racked. The 2023 is currently released and sells for $20/bottle. It comes in at 12.9% alcohol and 2,194 cases were produced.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a Hawaiian caught Swordfish steak that was pan fried. A new recipe was used with ingredients of butter, fresh Italian parsley, minced garlic, ginger, fresh lemon juice, red pepper flakes, black pepper and sea salt. Accompanied by roasted quarter small yellow potatoes. The lean Swordfish allowed the wine to impart both the aromas and flavors of the three dominate varietals (honeysuckle, lemon and lemongrass, brioche) to coat and engulf each bite of the fish. The spices used were “calmed downed” with the fruit bouquet of the wine.
Sláinte,
Michael
JUSTIN Vineyards and Winery, 2020 Isosceles
The Winery
Photo from Justin Winery website
The winery started first with a philosophy of taking the best of the Old-World meeting with the New World with an imaginative blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The goal of bringing about the Right Bank wonders of these two grapes and making an outlandish wine was the cornerstone of their existence. Herbs, red fruit with structure and elegance came together in their Justification blend.
Photo from Justin Winery website
Justin Baldwin, owner and founder of Justin Vineyards and Winery summed up the goal very neatly with the statement “We believe the wine should be exceptional from every angle. I personally invite you to discover our award-winning tradition that starts with our limestone-rich soil in Paso Robles and ends when the last glass is poured”.
The winery was founded in 1961 when they (Justin & Deborah Baldwin) purchased their 160 acre estate in the Adelaide Hills. It is located 15 miles west of Paso Robles.
Photo from Justin Winery website
Their talented wine maker is Scott Shirley who came to Justin in 2012. He is a graduate of UC Davis and worked at Opus One after college. His Justification blend in 2017 was named top wine in the world in 2017 and has received 94 points from Wine Spectator for the 2014 vintage.
While having experienced their Isosceles and Justification wines, they produce many others. The reds include Cabernet Sauvignon, various red blends, Pinot Noir (Russian River), Malbec, Tempranillo, Zinfandel, Merlot and Syrah. Their white wines include Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay (both from the Central Coast & Sonoma County) and Viognier. Looking forward to tasting several of these other wines soon.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The background for 30 years for the Isosceles philosophy has been to make it “their flagship wine and quality benchmark from Central Coast of California. A blend based on Cabernet Sauvignon supported by Cabernet Franc and Merlot” states Scott Shirley. Paso Robles grows each of these varietals to near perfection.
First looking into the glass with the wine, a bright and dark purple, almost black coloring and medium heavy viscosity. On the nose, mellow and soft cherry with a hint of soft vanilla pipe tobacco. On the palate this is one of the smoothest wines imaginable yet with strong characteristics. Black cherry with notes of oak, cedar and subtle leather fills the mouth. There was also a hint of licorice. The finish was layered and complex with each sip exposing the genuine uniqueness of this wine. Tannins were present and velvety but kept in check. Wine Enthusiast rated it 91 points, but it is surely higher today in my opinion. This will make my Best Wines tasted in 2024, the annual list comes out in December. The wine alcohol level is 15%.
The current release is the 2021 and sells for $85/bottle and was recently rated 93 points by James Suckling.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with 24-hour marinated flank steak. Marinated in Chaka sauce and then placed on a 1500-degree BBQ to sear in the spices. Served with minced Jalapeño peppers. Accompanied by a Yukon Gold potato and roasted Brussel sprouts. While enjoying these home-grown Jalapeño peppers from a neighbor, they were just a bit too hot and used them sparingly. The food and wine pairing was delicious with the tannins helping with the meat and the wine cooling the mouth from the minced Jalapeño peppers.
Sláinte,
Michael