2017 Young’s Vineyard Barbera – Like No Other Barbera!
Background on Barbera
Barbera, the red-headed step child of Italian descent! Yes that is how many people view Barbera wine. Yet the pedigree goes back to the 7th century as compared to the relatively “new comer” Cabernet Sauvignon which dates only to the 17th century. The production of Barbera is primarily in Italy boasting about 83% of worldwide vines. The United States accounts for the second largest production of approximately 11% and is found primarily in the Sierra Foothills, Central Valley and Santa Barbara areas. The small balance can be found in Australia and Argentina. Barbera was at one time the third most planted grape in Italy behind Sangiovese and Montepulciano.
If the aristocratic Cabernet Sauvignon is the King of Varietals, then Barbera is “wine of the people”. In northern Italy, especially in Piedmont, it does not get the same respect as Nebbiolo with prime real estate. Barbera is grown in the low slopes and valleys. Often very good Barbera can be obtained for a fraction of the price of a vintage Nebbiolo. Thus the early years of Barbera was known as a “jug wine”. When immigrants coming to the United States desired an inexpensive wine, Barbera filled the demand. Barbera is meant to be enjoyed young with intense aromas of cherries and blackberries.
The Winery
Photo of garden setting at Young’s Vineyard (photo by Young’s)
Many years ago we were members, after to being introduced to Young’s Vineyard. All their wines were tasty and the yearly parties were epic by the standards then! Young’s is one of the first vineyards you come to after turning onto Shenandoah Road in Plymouth. Over the years they have established themselves as an essential stop for their Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Syrah, Sangiovese and Barbera wines.
The Young family purchased the property in 1992, there was an operating winery producing 1,000 cases of wine with seven acres of grapes. Today, production has increased to 3,000 cases and the grounds has expanded to 30 acres, including 10 acres of lawns, gardens and picnic grounds surrounding a tranquil pond. While tasting wine, it is like being in a private park or reserve. They are located at 10120 Shenandoah Road in Plymouth, California.
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This Barbera did not possess a typical profile. The difference was the overwhelming spiciness like whole cluster soaked Grenache! This was especially noted when first opening. Later the spiciness mellowed out. Either way, cold from the cellar or cool, it was unique and delicious. On the eye the color is a deep crimson and medium heavy body. On the nose and palate, dark cherry, blackberries and a hint of strawberry wafts into the olfactory receptors and then the mouth discerns spices of vanilla and mild black licorice. What makes Barbera unique are the low tannins but high acidity.
Called the winery to find out the current status of the wine and vintage. Currently it is the 2020, but it is sold out! The new release (2022) is coming end of January and pricing is expected to be $36/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Purchased this wine a couple of years back and decided to have it with a pepperoni pizza this evening. While the pizza was delicious, I totally missed the mark as this wine outshined the pizza by a country mile. This wine was so good it should have had a meat or rich red sauce with pasta. While the pizza lost, I won by enjoying this wine!
Sláinte,
Michael