Month: October 2022
Domus Aurea 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon – Royalty Status Wine
One of my “non-California wine” stories for the month. However, this vintage was so delicious I had to write about it! Domus Aurea (“House of Gold”) is a single-vineyard wine made from old vines in the renowned Clos Quebrada de Macul Vineyard just south of Santiago. It overlooks Chile’s oldest wine-producing region. Not dissimilar from Napa Valley or Russian River in California allowing the cooling winds from the Pacific Ocean to come up the river or San Francisco Bay. The area is known for their full bodied red wines with strong flavors of black cherry and bold tannins.
The Wine: 2015 Viña Quebrada de Macul “Domus Aurea” Cabernet Sauvignon
2015 Domus Aurea, one of the better Cabernet Sauvignon from Maipo, contains 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Production is 48% in new French oak barrels and aged for 16 to 18 months.
First on the eyes a radiant purple in the glass and medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose, a blast of dark cherries, combined with oak and tannins awakes you instantaneously! But once opened and swirled for a while, you get the “real character” of this wine. Fresh cherries and hidden chocolate present themselves with freshness and balance. Something else was on the nose and a mystery until the second glass – a soft eucalyptus note that was truly enticing. On the palate, the purple and black fruits danced in merriment and were only calmed down with the earthiness of the region. The finish was like having a heavy Cabernet Sauvignon aged in oak from Napa. This was a “he-man Cabernet Sauvignon” and not for the faint-hearted red wine drinker. Right up my alley. It is unfiltered and the tannins were very present with just the right amount of angular enjoyment. Wine maker Jean-Pascal Lacaze produced one of the better wines coming out of this region. Robert Parker even rated it 95 points! Pricing is $74.95 for the current release of 2019.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Last night enjoyed a seared barbequed filet mignon and served medium rare. Topped off with a dollop of Roquefort, butter and chives compote. Accompanying the meal was a Russet potato, artichoke and a fresh garden salad. A meal and wine fit for royalty.
Second time enjoying a vintage of Domus Aurea Cabernet Sauvignon and definitely not my last!!!
Sláinte,
Michael
Smith-Madrone Vineyards, 2016 Riesling – Spot On Wine & Food Pairing
The Winery
Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The Founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Annual production is between 3,000 to 4,000 cases a year. Currently they are producing Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc).
The Wine – 2016 Smith-Madrone Riesling
The 2016 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apple on the nose. A light golden yellow straw color and medium viscosity. On the palate, strong lime, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the lime citrus. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity is jovial and enticing with a semi-sweet crescendo. Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,199 cases and the current release is 2017 and listed on their website for $34/bottle.
The Wine & Food Pairing
Thai, Pad Thai or Phad Thai, is commonly served as a street food and at restaurants in Thailand. The Smith-Madrone 2016 Estate Riesling was pulled from the cellar for last night’s meal due to the spiciness of the dish called Pad Thai Chicken. We had tried a similar recipe before with shrimp, but wanted to do it with chicken. The ingredients were flat rice noodles, virgin olive oil, fish sauce, minced garlic, chicken, eggs, bean sprouts, sliced red bell pepper, chopped green onions, roasted peanuts, brown sugar, rice vinegar, soy sauce, creamy peanut butter and Sriracha. Accompanying the meal was a fresh garden salad with an Asian dressing. The meal packed such wide ranging flavors and textures. The 2016 Smith-Madrone Riesling was a godsend. The wine was refreshing and quenched the palate. The barely sweet finish was spot on for this meal!
Sláinte,
Michael
Clairette de Die and Sushi Lunch – France Meet Japan!
Background
Clairette de Die is a natural sparkling white wine found in the Rhône Valley in France. Obviously much lesser known than its more famous cousin Champagne. A private museum in Le Dois, France recounts how the wine was “discovered”. Local shepherds were using the cool waters of the La Drôme River to chill some local wine. The bottle was accidently left in the water over the winter. In the springtime, the wine was found and it was carbonated meaning “effervescent or sparkling”. This was actually documented by Pliny the Elder. It can be traced back over 2,000 years! Clairette de Die is now an appellation for sparkling white wines around the town of Die. The geography is low lying alpine foothills toward the eastern Rhône region in France.
The Wine – Clairette de Die
The wine on eyes has a creamy hue and bubbles galore! On the nose, a pleasant citrus and soft floral fragrance. On the palate is where this wine shines brightly with peach flavors, beeswax and minerality (due to the chalkiness of the region). On the finish, it is a very filling sparkling, unlike many “lighter” sparkling wines. The chalkiness/minerality definitely comes thru while enjoying the wine, beckoning another sip. While only 11.5% alcohol level thinking it would be light, it was actually very “heavy” feeling but airy with the alcohol level.
The Wine and Food Pairing
The pairing with the white Hamachi was absolutely delicious. The Maguro was not the best choice to pair with this wine. Yet both the sushi and wine alone were great, the marriage between the Hamachi and Clairette de Die (without the rice) was spot on!
This bottle of wine was given to me from a winemaking friend who is considering making this wine in the USA. Stay tuned!!
Sláinte,
Michael
Monday Night Football – With Girasole Vineyards 2020 Charlie’s Blend
The Winery
I recently wrote a story on the history of BARRA of Mendocino. The winery also has two other labels, one of them being Girasole Vineyards. All their wines are California Certified Organically Farmed (CCOF) and have been for 20 years. Even before certification, Charlie Barra had been doing this twenty plus years before “being certified”. You can read the history, the vision, the family and vineyards at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2022/03/30/barra-of-mendocino-winery-2019-petite-sirah/
The Wine
Obviously paying tribute to the founder Charlie, this wine consists of Cabernet Sauvignon (39%), Zinfandel (39%) and Petite Sirah (22%). On the eyes a very deep ruby color and medium viscosity. On the nose and palate, lots of enjoyable red fruit, raspberry and plums, complimented with baking spices and black pepper. Soft subtle tannins provided a mellow finish with no one variety of grapes dominant with a trace of sweetness. The retail on this bottle is $18 and comes in at 14% alcohol.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Selected this wine for Monday Night Football at the Verona18 restaurant located at The Golf Club of Copper Valley. Their specialty on Mondays are your choice of two pizzas for $15 and $3 beer. Corkage is standard pricing. Went with their thin bubbling crust Margherita pizza with fresh mozzarella and basil with a tomato sauce. This wine is both a standalone drinking wine and one with everyday foods like spaghetti, meatballs, hamburgers, pork dishes, etc.
A thrilling nail biting game, enhanced with a delicious pizza and enjoyable wine!
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://www.barraofmendocino.com
https://www.coppervalleygolf.com/homepage/current-operations
“From the Vine” movie with Italian Wines
This last weekend, decided to watch a movie and “From the Vine” came up on the screen. Never heard anything about it but gave it try. While enjoying this quirky comedy movie with beautiful scenery, it begged to open a couple of Italian wines to enjoy. While the movie is set in Acerenza, in Potenza Province, which is known for their Aglianico wines, wanted to try a couple from the cellar. Geographically Acerenza is directly east of Naples about two thirds across the land towards the Adriatic Sea.
First up was a 2013 Guido Porro Barolo DOCG that was on the “To Drink List” for 2022. This wine come from Piedmont in northern Italy. Here is the description from Anthony Lynch, “While the Barolo appellation features marl soils throughout, the town of Serralunga is home to particularly poor, limestone-rich marls that give especially potent, structured expressions of Nebbiolo. The steep Lazzairasco vineyard lies in the lower portion of the famed Lazzarito cru and enjoys full southern and southeastern sun exposure and shelter from prevailing winds. As a result, this site bakes in the summer heat, producing ripe, full-throttle wines with all the heft, concentration, and aging potential Nebbiolo can provide”. A very good and dry Nebbiolo.
Second up was a 2013 Marina Cvetic Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo DOC. The wine come from the Abruzzo area, directly east of Rome bordered by the Adriatic Sea. The winery states “Deep ruby red, with an intense and very fine bouquet. Notes of cherry, currants and violets, enhanced by a slight scent of cocoa and vanilla, open up to a balanced, tasty palate full of details. Deep and harmonious, it closes with a finish of rare clarity”. This was also a good and enjoyable wine in which to watch the movie.
Our own memories of the Italian hillsides, the people, the vineyards and drinking these enjoyable wines made the movie even better!
Sláinte or perhaps Salute,
Michael
Above The Rush, 2021 Albariño from the Sierra Foothills????
Background
The name is derived from the Latin word albus, meaning white. No one knows the origin of the grape with a split camps believing it being native to Spain or perhaps brought in from France in the 11th or 12th centuries by pilgrimaging monks. Today, Albariño is considered indigenous to the Iberian Peninsula and generally found in “Green Spain” in Galicia where the vineyards receive the cooling breezes from the Atlantic Ocean. This area is cooler and rainier than the rest of the country. The main growing area is Rias Baixas, which is along the coast with breezes providing a “salinity” and being high in minerality. The soil is sandy granite which is the generally accepted soil for this grape. In fact 93% of the world production of Albariño comes from Spain (72%) and (21%).
Albariño can and does grow in warmer regions, especially with more clay soils. Here Albariño possess a riper fruit characteristics (apricot, nectarine and mango) and less acidity. Specifically Albariño in California per the United States Food & Agricultural report of 2021 shows 5,700 tons of Albariño processed verses 3,644 tons in 2020, or a 56% year increase year over year. It is a growing in popularity. In California almost 87% of all Albariño grows in regions with cool ocean, bay or delta breezes (Yolo County, San Joaquin County, Solano County, Monterey & San Benito Counties and Sonoma & Marin Counties. So when visiting Above The Rush Wines and they offered an Albariño, I was a bit surprised and taken back from it growing in Calaveras County. As it turns out their vineyard is located next to New Melones Reservoir and does receive cooling evening breezes. However fresh water verses salt water. The amount of grapes grown in the entire Sierra Foothills AVA (7 Counties) represents less than 1% of all Albariño grape tonnage grown in California. For more information on Above The Rush Wines see an earlier story at:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2022/09/24/above-the-rush-wines-2019-tempranillo/
The Wine
First on the eyes, a medium yellow or light golden color on the eyes. On the nose, aromatics are far ranging from lime to grapefruit all being citrusy. On the palate, you are struck with the bright acidity, a slight saltiness and a subtle bitter note. This is a natural by-product and inherent in Albariño. Cantaloupe and lime zest notes stand out. On the finish, minerality and beeswax are prevalent and extremely dry. While all wines change over temperature, Albariño has an extremely large fluctuation in taste as it warms up, allowing more fruit flavors to sneak into the palate. When tasting it alone, it may not appear to be a clear cut alternative for Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay, but allow it time to morph over temperature.
The Food and Wine Pairing
The food pairing tonight was a lemon garlic and shrimp pasta dish. Besides the shrimp and linguine, the other ingredients included olive oil, unsalted butter, garlic cloves, crushed red pepper, dried oregano, baby spinach, Parmesan cheese and lemon juice. Topped off with fresh minced parsley and freshly squeeze lemon wedges. The high acidity in the wine was perfected suited for the shrimp and as the wine temperature changed, the fruit calmed the crushed red peppers and garlic in the dish. Other dishes recommended for Albariño include ceviche, fish tacos and various seafood pasta dishes.
Conclusion
Three noteworthy finds from this wine. First, not all Albariño must grow next to the ocean or salty bay lands. It appears the cooling breezes are critical to provide and allow Albariño its natural slight salinity. Secondly, this grape has a large ranging profile based on the temperature of the wine. Be patient if you get an initial “bitterness” and allow it to warm up in the glass as it will change significantly. Thirdly, with its high acidity profile I believe it excels with food and will enhance many dishes.
Sláinte,
Michael
Bourbon Barrel Aged Wines Are Exploding! A Great One is Wood Family Vineyards 2020 Bourbon Barrel Aged Red Wine
The History of Using Bourbon Barrels For Wine And Today’s Market
In the early 1980’s, American oak barrels were expensive for many start up wineries. By law bourbon barrels have to be 100% American oak and can only be used one time to distill bourbon in the United States. So after their use, many barrels became available for “other distilled spirits” and wineries to purchase at a fraction of the price of new French or new American oak barrels. So why doesn’t everyone purchase used bourbon barrels? Key is that whiskey barrels are produced differently than wine barrels. Whiskey barrels are charred on the inside verses wine barrels which are toasted. By only toasting wine barrels, the wine while aging develops many nuances of flavor. Bourbon barrel aged wines tend to be bold with ripe reds, vanilla, smoky and with muted tannins.
The use of bourbon barrel aging has taken off more recently with wineries using these barrels. Some view it as a trend to attract Millennials who buy whiskies. Others view it as a crossover from spirits to wine and yet the resulting wine is unique, smooth and provides an enjoyable sipping experience. Here is how fast the Bourbon Barrel aging market is taking off: The spirits barrel aged category of wine earned $120 million in 2019 compared to $800,000 in 2015! This market is exploding due to the flavor profile not just with Millennials but with wine aficionados looking to enhance their experience.
Wine write Sarah Phillips McCartan provided some interesting facts of the fast emerging Bourbon Barrel aged market:
- Wine aged in bourbon and other sprits barrels is a success in the US – with sales of 20m bottles – and a growing presence elsewhere.
- If these wines were a category, it would be bigger than Zinfandel.
- 60 brands, including Mondavi, Fetzer, Beringer and Apothic offer examples of the style.
- Spirits-aged wine can command premium prices while being inexpensive and quick to produce.
- Wine purists may not like them, but these products are popular with bourbon fans, and US whiskey is a fast-growing premium sector.
- Bourbon used to be associated with male consumers, but it increasingly appeals to women.
- Wine is also being matured in barrels used for other spirits such as tequila and rum.
- Initially focused on the US market, spirits barrel wines are now doing well in export markets like the UK.
In the past year, US wine consumers have purchased 1.6 million cases – close to 20 million bottles – of spirits-aged wines according to Nielsen data. To put this into context, if the spirits-aged category were a variety, it would beat Zinfandel and Syrah, among others to rank 14th among still wines. Around 60 brands now participate in the most important sub-category, bourbon barrel-aged wines.
The Wine – Wood Family Vineyards 2020 Bourbon Barrel Red Wine, Against The Grain
I was given an advance bottle of the 2020 “Against The Grain” that uses the following blends: 54% Syrah, 36% Malbec, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Petite Sirah. This year’s release, 2020, Rhonda Wood produced only 45 cases due to availability of bourbon barrels to infuse her wine! Wood Family Vineyards taste the different varietals after their normal barrel aging and decide which wines to blend together. The final blend is then aged in Bourbon barrels for additional two months.
After the actual wines are produced and the final blend determined, it is then aged an additional eight weeks in bourbon barrels. The wine will be released October 20th and will most likely be sold for around $45.
The wine on the eyes was a cavernous purple coloration with medium heavy viscosity. On the nose, the flavors of Syrah like blueberry, mocha and roasted coffee came to mind. The first sip on the palate detonating the senses with a smooth bourbon along with some jammy, cinnamon, smoke and dark berry characteristics of the actual wine blend. The finish was equally pronounced with smoothness, smoke and a hint of bourbon on the back of the throat. The tannins were almost unnoticeable but layers of flavor and structure were present due to the wines used and the bourbon barrels.
The Food and Wine Pairing
The Friday Night Wine & Dine group met Friday night at Verona18 at the Golf Club at Copper Valley. The wine was paired with a filet mignon cooked medium rare and served with a Gorgonzola compound butter with French fries and fresh vegetables. The steak melting in the mouth and the wine was so scrumptious with the mix of Syrah, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah and the vanilla finish due to the Bourbon Barrels. A winning combination! Several at tonight’s dinner were extremely impressed with the wine and will be purchasing some soon!
Conclusion
I had purchased the previous releases and am always pleased to have a few bottles in the cellar. It has for the last three years made my list of Best Wines Tasted of the Year under $50. This is unique, delicious and worthy of trying. The 2020 wine is more rounded which should appeal to a broader audience. It is really a wine to be consumed and not aged. Rhonda states on the back of the bottle “let this bold wine, with unique bourbon influences of vanilla, caramel and smoke, remind us to step outside of the box, go against the grain and have a little fun in this life of ours”. Truer words could not be spoken about this wine experience!
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
https://woodfamilyvineyards.com/
https://www.coppervalleygolf.com/homepage/current-operations
Twisted Oak Winery – 2016 The Spaniard
The Winery
The winery in Vallecito (Sierra foothills) started with the purchase of the land in January 2002 by Jeff Stai and his wife Mary. Jeff, previously an electrical engineer in Southern California had spent a lot of time in the Calaveras and Alpine foothills. Jeff’s idea of building his own winery, with his detailed background, merged the two disciplines rather easily. This is the beginning of the paradox. Wine is a creative and an experiment at best coupled with science and the whims of a farmer at the beckon of Mother Nature. For more of the complete story you can read it by clicking:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2021/06/24/twisted-oak-winery-a-paradox-of-sorts/
The Wine – 2016 The Spaniard
Pulled this last night out of the cellar to go with our meal. The 2016 Spaniard is a unique wine made in the Rioja style blend of Tempranillo, Graciano and Grenache. The respective percentages are 46%, 31% and 23%. The wine is finished in 30% new French, American and Hungarian oak and 70% being neutral oak. This is a big hearty, bold and beautiful wine not for the faint of heart wine drinkers. When you roll up these three you get a blast of flavors. First on the eyes, a deep dark red/purple, almost black in color and medium-heavy viscosity. On the nose a symphony of the three varieties meet and you are met with bold black cherry, blackberries and faint violet, waft into the senses. On the palate, one savors an oak & cedar combination, earthiness (dust), pipe tobacco, aged leather, with a tinge of sweetness of vanilla. Definitely Christmas spices from the Grenache are present. The finish is extremely long with cinnamon and black pepper being present to close the symphony. The 1812 Overture Symphony comes to mind with the crescendo being the cannons. Tannins are very present with some jaggedness but tempered with the fruit. The current release is the 2017 with a slightly different percentage mix and listed at $55/bottle.
The Food & Wine Pairing
The dinner this evening was a Yuzu chicken stir-fry. For those not familiar with Yuzu, it is a fruit the size of a small grapefruit which are aromatic. Not typically eaten as a fruit, but a common ingredient in many Japanese dishes. The outer rind is used like lemon zest and the juice like lemon juice. The flavor is tart, fragrant and somewhere between a grapefruit with just a little mandarin orange. Others believe it is more akin to a lime than a lemon. The chicken breast was cut up and marinated in Yuzu Barbecue Sauce from Bachan’s. Stir-fried in sesame oil with garlic and ginger. Sautéed and served with Yuzu Sauce and topped off with sesame seeds and sliced green onions. Accompanied by rice, sautéed snow peas and a fresh garden salad. The wine with its full symphony and bold flavors was a great pairing with this chicken dish.
This wine was truly a wonderful and big treat with dinner this evening.
Sláinte,
Michael
2012 Shadybrook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – Just Simply Impressive
The Winery
What a magnificent hidden gem beneath Mt George in the Coombsville AVA. Owners David and Alice Alkosser found a piece of heaven. They are situated on 25 rolling hillside acres with phenomenal views facing west and south. They have planted the five key Bordeaux varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec on this property.
I was introduced to Shadybrook by their prominent winemaker Rudy Zuidema with their inaugural 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon release. I have been a buyer for many additional releases without hesitation with the 2012 being exceptional. The 2012 Cab made my listing of “Top Wines Tasted in 2015”. Currently they are offering three wines: Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Platine Blanc (in the tradition of whites from Bordeaux). All their wines are available with quantity limitations on purchases.
The 2012 Shadybrook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Decided to splurge this week and pulled out a 2012 Shadybrook Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon which was simply smooth and elegant. The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon is a silky and layered wine. On the eyes it is dark and enticing. A cacophony of flavors from sweet pipe tobacco to plum to blackberries delight the senses. A pleasing finish with mocha and velvety tannins provides an opulent finish. The current release is their 2019 and lists for $145 on the website.
Truly one of the better wine offerings in Napa Valley. In fact they were named Best Winery in California by Yelp!
Sláinte,
Michael
2016 MadoroM Merlot – A Standout Merlot
The Winery
MadoroM Vineyards and Winery is a family affair creating handcrafted and artisan wines from Napa Valley grapes. They produce, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, a Proprietary Red Blend (see a previous article for a background at: https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2021/10/07/2018-madorom-camouflage-proprietary-red-wine/ ) and Sauvignon Blanc. Their new tasting room is located on the Silverado Trail. MadoroM wines is a collaboration of Andy and Marissa Amador and the talented winemaker Mike Blom. At age 27, Andy purchased a 188 acre ranch in the eastern Napa Valley and he planted 50 acres on the property. He later planted a vineyard at the base of Mt. Veeder. The name MadoroM is an incorporation of all their names!
The Wine
If you are a fan of the move Sideways and distain Merlot’s that are blah and timid, I would like to introduce you to a “strong and hearty Merlot”! I pulled this wine last night to go with this delicious meal. I last tried this wine a year ago and was impressed and now continue to be! On the eyes a charismatic brick red juice presented itself with a medium heavy viscosity. On the nose, juicy red plum overcame the senses with expectation of a rich and lavish Merlot. On the palate, red and tart cherries burst into the mouth, bringing with it lightly toasted oakiness, followed by surprisingly defined tannins and structure not normally associated with Merlot. On the finish it was a mouth filling delight with a longish and drawn out enjoyment. This is why I have called it the Paul Bunyan of Merlot’s! Personally I think to the average consumer in a blind tasting, it might even pass as a Cabernet Sauvignon! Voted as one of the Best Wines Tasted in 2021 and it will continue to be in 2022. Their current release is the 2017 and is listed on their website for $75 and it is a steal for this big, bold and delicious Merlot.
The Food and Wine Pairing
This meal was fantastically prepared with beef Teriyaki stir-fry with snow peas and green onions. The ingredients included: flank steak marinated in a Teriyaki sauce (Kinder’s Marinade & Sauce, Sweet & Spicy Teriyaki), fresh snow peas, sea salt, beef stock, dry sherry, Asian red chili peppers, cornstarch, garlic cloves, grated ginger root and green onions/scallions served over rice. A fresh garden salad accompanied the dish. The flavor was definitely warm and spicy for the beef with the peppers, ginger and onions. The Merlot wine was perfect blanketing it with fruit forward cherry and plum flavoring, a mild sweetness and yet strong enough to stand up to the stir-fry beef. Not too many Merlot’s could handle this dish!
If you have been turned off by Merlot’s, this 2016 MadoroM Merlot will bring you back to being an advocate of this once popular wine.
Sláinte,
Michael
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