Month: October 2022
Cuda Ridge Wines, 2020 Sangiovese – A Bold And Friendly Sangiovese
Background
Sangiovese is a red Italian wine grape variety that derives its name from the Latin sanguis Jovis, “the blood of Jupiter”. In Italy it is “the wine” of Tuscany and Chianti regional wines. In fact it is Italy’s number one most planted grape at 250,000 acres. That in comparison to all of California which has 1,392 acres planted and only 17 acres in Alameda County, where Cuda Ridge Wines is located in Livermore.
Sangiovese is a chameleon grape which takes on very different characteristics based on the terrior. Typically Sangiovese is dry but can have an edge of sweetness, can range from light to medium-bodied and leans towards mouth puckering acidity with strong tannins. Obviously perfect with Italian dishes with tomato based sauces, mushrooms, sausages and various cuts of red meat.
The Winery – Cuda Ridges Wines
There is a lot to be said about Cuda Ridge Wines in Livermore, California. A key point is that they produce Bordeaux style wines. The Cuda Ridge Wines and Tasting Room are located at 2400 Arroyo Road in Livermore, California. Cuda Ridge Wines current production is approximately 2100 cases. Cuda Ridge Wines produces the following Bordeaux varietals: Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and most recently their addition of Carménère. Always experimenting, Larry Dino owner & winemaker will produce non-Bordeaux style wines which are designated under their Black label, including Sangiovese, New-World style Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and a blend. Each of the varietals produced are small lots ranging from 100 – 450 cases. Cuda Ridge Wines does extensive blending of the varietals and strives for lower alcohol wines with intense complexity and character, traditional of the Bordeaux style wines.
Cuda Ridge Wines 2020 Sangiovese
This Sangiovese reminds me of a dark figure lurking in the background. Not sinister, but obscure and mysterious. This stranger waiting to come out at the appropriate time to be introduced. Admittedly having tasted many Sangiovese wines while vacationing in Tuscany and at home, I always felt they were a bit too reserved and subtle (with the exception of Super Tuscans). Not the case with this bold and gracious wine.
First on the eyes, this dark brick and ruby red wine fascinates you with its coloring. Then with a medium to medium-heavy viscosity. The tasting then continued to discover the secret to Cuda Ridge Wines Sangiovese. On the nose old world rustic aromas wafted into the senses with cherry, roasted pepper & tomato and an earthy herbal quality. On the palate, fruits of cherries, strawberries, ripe plum and dried herbs swirled in the mouth. On the finish a distinct soft tobacco or smoke from an open fire were present along with aged leather. The tannins were defined and present but not jagged or sharp. The acidity was slightly less typical of Sangiovese but still with sufficient acidity which is one of Larry’s goal in making this wine. Made with 100% American oak barrels and it will be released in November 5th to club members at $38/bottle. A slightly different wine than Tuscan Sangiovese but with punch and so pleasing to the soul.
The Food and Wine Pairing
A special treat last evening with a homemade Salsa di Pomodoro which my wife made from scratch taking six hours to simmer and maturate. The tomato based sauce included Italian plum tomatoes, extra-virgin olive oil, chopped onion, shredded carrots, chopped celery, fresh bay leaves, whole cloves of garlic, ground beef & pork and crushed hot red peppers. This poured over spaghetti pasta was a treat all by itself. Topped off with shaved Parmesan cheese. Then add the 2020 Cuda Ridge Wine Sangiovese with its acidity charging thru the tomato base sauce and embracing each bite, this was a heavenly match for the evening.
Sláinte,
Michael
Above The Rush Wines 2021 Verdejo – A Rare and Unique Wine
Background on Verdejo
Verdejo is a white wine grape that originated in North Africa and was transported to the Rueda region of Spain around the 11th century. Today approximately 47,000 acres (converted from hectors) are planted in Spain. The grapes are generally harvested at night with cooler temperatures to provide less oxidation or browning of the juice to provide the wine clarity.
Finding Verdejo produced in the USA is similar to finding Waldo! In the latest report from California Department of Food & Agriculture (April 2022), Verdejo is not even listed by acreage! In the report all 881,000 acres of grapes are detailed by acreage, Verdejo is not to be found. In researching I found a limited number of producers in Lodi, Yolo County, Sierra foothills and Clarksburg. Not to be confused Verdejo and Verdelho are two very different and distinct grape varieties.
2021 Above The Rush Wines Verdejo
This Verdejo from Above The Rush Wines in Vallecito, California is fairly classical of Spanish Verdejo in aroma and flavors. First on the eyes possessing a pale straw coloring and light viscosity. The wine from the color provides no clue what is follow in aromatics and flavors. On the nose, has a fruity, but not sweet aroma. The first whiff of Verdejo provides a grassy herbal scent similar to Sauvignon Blanc, but very constrained verses a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. A light citrus note of lime quickly follows the herbaceous qualities. On the palate, it requires a few sips to fully appreciate its’ traits and flavors. From honeydew to almonds each can be detected. It is bright with acidity and absolutely no sweetness! On the finish, minerality and stone fruit provide a distinct flavor which sets it apart from Sauvignon Blanc. A slight inherent bitterness can be found on the finish of this grape varietal, but is quickly overcome with food. The wine is a good match with seafood and pork dishes. So when wanting a white wine other than Chardonnay, Verdejo is a good and thoughtful alternative. Price is listed at $24/bottle.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Wanting to give this wine its full due, I had a glass at lunch with Maguro sashimi. The Maguro fish was a bit strong especially with the soy sauce, ginger and wasabi. When eaten plain, the taste and pairing was more enjoyable but a white sashimi would have proven better. Believe the best sashimi pairings with this Verdejo would be Hotate (scallops), Saba (Mackerel) and Hamachi (Yellowtail).
Then in the evening, it was paired with a chicken breast that was lightly glazed with mesquite spices. Then drizzled with Raspberry Chipotle sauce from Stewart & Jasper Orchards. Accompanied with rice and peas. The smokiness of the mesquite chicken and chipotle and the sweetness of the raspberry along with the dry and subtle fruitiness of the Verdejo provided a juxtaposition of flavors that were delightful in the mouth.
The conclusion of the tasting of Verdejo from lunch to dinner, is that Verdejo is a unique wine and one that food has to be carefully aligned with in order to appreciate its full potential. Will definitely try this again with Saba and Hamachi in the near future.
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwines.com
Barra of Mendocino, 2019 Zinfandel – An Immediate Winner For “Best Wines Tasted” in 2022
Background on CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers)
In order to understand the winery, it is essential to understand what organic farming and certification is all about. A very brief explanation, when Charlie Barra started the winery almost 40 years ago, he undertook a Herculean task of making it organic on his terms. In his words “Yes it’s more work (annual audits/certifications, paperwork, labor requirements), more risk (crop devastation from pests) and not necessarily a bigger payout, buts essential to the well-being of this planet”. His vision was remarkable.
The BARRA of Mendocino has been CCOF for over 20 years and took 3 years of inspections prior to become complete. Charlie’s favorite saying is that he had been farming organically for over 55 years! Organic certification requires the vineyards are maintained without conventional pesticides or herbicides, synthetic fertilizers, sewage sludge, bioengineering or ionizing radiation. Crop covers, of bell beans, red clover and peas are planted between the rows of vines and when flowering are then turned back into the soil for nutrients for the vineyards/grapes. The micro-organisms in the soil allow the vines to utilize the nutrients efficiently.
History of the Winery
Charlie followed his father and maternal grandfather who migrated to Mendocino County from Piedmont, Italy in 1906. Charlie began farming grapes in the mid 1940’s and in 1954 purchased Redwood Valley Vineyards. He worked vigorously with Karl Wente, Robert Mondavi and others to be one of the first growers of many varietals planted on the North Coast. Today the ranch grows organically Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Merlot, Petite Sirah, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Muscat Canelli. Besides the BARRA of Mendocino label, they have two other labels, Girasole Vineyards and CORO Mendocino. Charlie passed in 2019 and his wife of Martha who worked with him for almost 40 years, is heading the family winery which now stands at 350 acres and a 2.8 million gallon custom crush facility. They launched the BARRA of Mendocino Brand in 1997 and the Girasole Brand in 2003. Their son and daughter also have major responsibilities to keep the “family farm” running.
The 2019 Barra Zinfandel Estate Wine
The organic grapes come from the Bella Collina ranch and were hand harvest. The must was mixed twice a day to extract a beautiful color, flavor and smooth tannins. They strove for “a deep ruby color with flashes and jewel tones” and by all accounts achieved their goal.
First on the eyes a mesmerizing colors of purple and ruby awaits the partaker of this wine with medium viscosity. On the nose, aroma of fresh cherry pie in grandma’s kitchen is the predominant scent. Once on the palate, the red Bing cherries along with raspberry and Christmas spices dance merrily in the mouth. On the dry finish with 20% new French oak barrels provides a texture and structure and a soft vanilla finale.
This wine is 89% Zinfandel and 11% Petite Sirah and aged 17 months. Only 243 cases were produced and the suggested retail is $24/bottle. That is a phenomenal value for the layers of enjoyment for this dry Zinfandel wine from Mendocino County.
The Food and Wine Pairing
Paired this evening with a fried pork chop with seasonings of various spices including mesquite, topped off with Stewart & Jasper Orchards Cherry Pepper Sauce. Accompanied with rice, steamed broccoli and a fresh garden salad. The pork chop with soft smoky mesquite flavor and the candied cherry sauce combined beautifully with the robust Zinfandel with flavors of cherry and a sweet finish of vanilla.
This wine will make the Best Wines tasted in 2022 (out in December) for the bountiful flavors and tastes in the up to $50 category! Less than 2% of all wines make my annual listing for “Best Wines Tasted during any given year! Additionally, at the price point, it is an absolute deal!
Sláinte,
Michael
https://californiawinesandwines.com
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