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Let’s get plastered!!! Now that may not the smoothest introduction to a wine article, but let me explain. Terry and Nancy Klein established a very successful plastering business in the SF Bay Area but had always wanted to work and own a vineyard. In 1998 they bought a 15 acre parcel in most northern area of St Helena and planted 10 acres of grapes. This consists of 8 of Cabernet Sauvignon and the other 2 acres are Cabernet Franc and Petite Sirah.
A couple of weeks ago I sat down with Terry (on the left) and his wine maker Mike McPherson to taste and discuss the vineyard and direction. Terry is an engaging owner with a smile and demeanor big enough to fill his wine cellar! Each bottle of wine has a unique name and story. Rudy Zuidema is the consulting winemaker and guiding mentor to the overall development of the winery.
The first wine tasted was their 2016 Chardonnay which is from Carneros region which was smooth and light bodied. The following vintage was I was able to barrel taste was from a local vineyard “red shoulder estate” and has a bursting Old World crispness, yet inviting to the palate. This wine will be a “gold medal” contender in my opinion.
Beyond the tasting of the wine Terry presented it in a glass which they distribute from Austria called Vino O2. It is difficult to see in the picture, but a “thumb size” is indented into the glass. What this causes while swirling the glass, is for the aromas to be risen up the glass and into your nose. Tasting the wine just poured into the glass verses after a few swirls is remarkably different and does enhance the experience.
The tasting room is located in the “basement/cellar” of their beautiful house on this secluded vineyard. It is spacious enough for 6-10 people and very intimate and does takes one back to Italy. The word Allora by the way, translates, to “whatever”. I think it really translates to “whatever is good”!
The first red tasted was a 90% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine had a deep purple hue on sight and was medium body with aroma notes of blackberry and is fruit forward. On the finish it possessed a lingering “soft sweetness”.
Another red wine enjoyed during this tasting was their Lusso Cabernet Sauvignon. It is made from Clone 15 grapes and is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon based. Only three barrels are made. Rudy Zuidema describes it as “highly extracted and decadent wine that indulges your entire pallet in pure luxury”. When sipping this wine, you get ripe berries and hints of dark chocolate. It is aged 24 months in French barrels. By the way, the label of the three women on the bottle has a fascinating story behind it, but that will be for the Klein’s to share on your visit.
So while starting the article with “let’s get plastered” you really need to slowly experience this exquisite wine.
FTC disclosure: All wine purchased was at full retail rate.
On the evening of March 8th at Saddle Creek Golf Resort the Wine Society was treated to several outstanding wines by winemaker Rudy Zuidema and a culinary feast by Chef Nigel Thorne.
The first course consisted of a unique and tasteful poached pear salad with Grand Cru, cranberries, roasted pistachios with a cranberry-pear vinaigrette. This was paired with a 2014 Shadybrook Estate Platine Blanc. This wine was a pale straw yellow with hints of meringue and key lime. Immediately following was were aromas of pear, mandarin and honey with a long and clean finish.
The second course was a sea bass over goat cheese risotto with a savory peach sauce. The tastes and textures were complementary as well as diverse! This was served with a 2014 Rapp Ranch Chardonnay. The coloring was a golden yellow with aromas of poached pear, grilled pineapples to entice the nose. Tropical fruits and creamy caramel ran down the palate.
The next course was tender veal served with a roasted sweet potato and carrot puree & cherry demi. Many thought this was the highlight dish of the evening. This was served with a big and hearty 2014 Rapp Ranch Cutters Reserve Red Bordeaux blend. Unique was the 45% Petit Verdot which produced a deep purple hue on viewing. The nose was greeted by blueberry, licorice and rhubarb. With so much Petit Verdot it was still balanced and produced a long finish.
The next dish was the a powerful coffee spiced filet mignon with Oyster mushrooms, green beans and a serpentine puff pastry. This was served with the 2014 Shadybrook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. This was big, bold and encompassed the entire mouth like a fireworks display! The bouquet as Rudy states, “black cherry, toasted caramel, brown sugar & pipe tobacco entice your senses with subtle secondary of earthly aromas of forest floor, tarragon & kirsch. Full of juicy plum, blackberry, mocha, chocolate & maple notes”. What more could you ask for in 100% Cabernet Sauvignon??
The final was an artful dessert presentation of salted caramel & white chocolate. This was paired with a 2014 Zuidema Grenache. It was a 100% Grenache from Napa Valley and Rudy’s first vintage showing the blending of old world and new world Grenache. Strawberry and rustic tannins were evident from nose to mouth.
On the whole, the evening and pairings were sensational, exquisite and a delight to the senses and palate. Rudy’s award winning wines should absolutely be sought after (Shadybrook, Rapp Ranch, Zuidema, Red Cap, Alyris, Kent Price, Allora, etc.) and Saddle Creek Golf Resort gets an A++ on creativity, excellent food, presentation and flawless wait staff (Chef Nigel, Tammy and crew).
We all are eagerly awaiting the next event in the fall.
I was looking for a “local Grenache” for a Wine Society meeting and found one in Tuolumne County located in Jamestown, California. The big surprise was understanding their history and passion for Italian wines. It started in the late 1800’s with Giovani Rocca, who married into the Gianelli family. It was a good size plot of land outside of Jamestown which was used for cattle, a gold mining camp and a major stagecoach stop. Fast forward to 1980 and Ron Gianelli purchased the 53 acres of this 1427 foot elevation land from a relative and began thinking about how to farm it.
Ron researched endlessly how wine is produced in Italy. Armed with that knowledge, in 2003 he planted the first vineyard. This is where a typical winery and the Gianelli Vineyards go in a markedly different direction. Ron and Lorie Gianelli wanted to make their winery authentically Italian. So off to Verona to seek out equipment for farming, production techniques, rootstocks to filtration systems, etc. No detail was overlooked. The entire winery is set up like stepping back into Italy and so are the wines!
The wines in production and sale today are: 2014 Montepulciano Reserva, 2015 Petite Sirah, 2012 Nebbiolo, 2012 Grenache, 2012 Primitivo, 2014 Nino, 2012 Sangiovese Grosso, 2014 Bella Rosato and 2012 La Porta Del Paradisio. I want to mention 3 outstanding wines tasted during my visit – 2012 Nebbiolo, 2012 Primitivo and 2014 Montepulciano. All of these were tasted and presented at the historic tasting room on Main St in Jamestown.
The first was the 2012 Nebbiolo from northern Italy, my favorite Piedmonte wines. It had a unique cinnamon spice, with black cherry and strawberry. It was medium weight and very well balanced. The alcohol was 14.7%.
The second wine was the 2014 Montepulciano Reserva. This brought me back to Tuscany with its pointed cherry aromas, soft tannins and yet full body viscosity and flavors. This is the wine to have with a pasta dish and a red sauce. Alcohol was 13.9%. Oh and by the way, it won a Silver Medal at the SF Chronicle Wine Tasting in January 2018.
Lastly the 2015 Petite Sirah which was aged two years in old French oak barrels. This allow as they state to give it “inherently jammy notes of black cherry, dried red cherry, violets and plum while retaining a velvety structure”. The alcohol was 15%. While not one to collect Petite Sirah’s, this one will be going into my cellar shortly!
These three got my highest marks for completeness to their varietal heritage and taste. Every wine tasted was above average, but these stood out! The price range for these three wines were modestly price from $26 to $35. This might start another rush but instead of gold it will be a wine rush to Jamestown! Do not delay!
Per the FTC, any wine purchased from Gianelli Vineyards, was given an industry discount.
It had been two years since we ate at Pueo’s Osteria in Waikoloa Village. It was excellent then and now hit new heights of cuisine and wine list presentation. Teddy Moku Lyau, the General Manager and Sommelier who I have kept in contact with for two years has pulled together an excellent wine list to compliment the authentic Italian food offered. Key is similar to the mainland with the Farm to table concept.
First dish this evening was special freshly caught Blue Fin Tuna sashimi with local onions and mangos called Pesce Crudo. This simply melted in your mouth! This was served with a glass of a smooth and flavorful but not overpowering Montepulciano, Masciarelli, from Abruzzo.
Next up in the work up was the Bresaola Carpaccio with truffle roasted hamakua & cremini mushroom and heart of palm. This dish was tasty, fresh cheese and served with multi-colored local tomatoes. We switched to a glass of Nero D’ Avola, Saia, from Sicily. This was a deep color and hearty to the nose, but easy going down! This coupled with the freshly baked bread proved to be another winner.
Now the entrée for the night was a freshly caught Swordfish with a tomato racy sauce. Absolutely the moistest and freshest Swordfish consumed. The Nero D’ Avola with the tomato reduction complimented and brought out all the flavors of the fish.
Now if you were expecting to see a post of the desert and perhaps a Port – we failed to complete the mission as we were “stuffed to the gills”. I would recommend Pueo’s Osteria for anyone visiting the Big Island. Their logo far exceeded the motto “Food, Wine & Fun”.
Teddy is to be commended for his exquisite wine selections and Jane was an engaging, thoughtful and responsive server.
So while Mahlo or Aloha might be appropriate in Hawaii, eccellente is more spot on.
Per FTC Rules: All food and wine were purchased at list price.
Click on the above header on website to see these wines. Or click https://californiawinesandwineries.com/exceptional-outstanding-remarkable-price-point-wines-in-2017/
Their label and name signifies the perfect gift for the season. The name Gracianna is for Trini Amador III’s great grandmother (Gracianna) and they wanted to incorporate all they had to be grateful for and show their gratitude. In addition having the “present with a bow” on the label, makes this wine story timely.
The winery is set on the Russian River in the well know “Miracle Mile” is home of some of the best Pinots just outside of Healdsburg. The “Miracle Mile” is the “confluence of a tectonic age, alluvial soils left by a wandering river, water flowing off of the Sonoma Mountain range which carried with it eroded volcanic material–all of these factors created soils with large amounts of clay in the central portion of the Russian River Valley appellation”.
Gracianna produces approximately 2,000 cases per year of which 70% is for various Pinot’s. The balance of production is for Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc and Sparkling Brut Rosé – Blush Cuveé. All their Pinot’s are produced in the Burgundian style with French barrels. They use clones 667 and 777 for their Pinot’s in the vineyard and then blend the two. The wine making is a “family affair” with all giving “gratitude” for the fruit of the vineyard.
The 2015 Gracianna Reserve Pinot Noir was one of the outstanding wines at the recent WBC in Santa Rosa. It wasn’t until later I learned that only 144 cases were made using the best 4 barrels. Immediately, even upon just inhaling the aromas, I knew it was going to be a provocative Pinot Noir. With the first sip, was a fruit forward taste of both cherry & strawberry, yet subtlety intense with just the appropriate amount of pepper, minerality and leather lingering in the background. The wine peeled backed invigorating layers upon each sip. Very similar aromas and tastes were present in their 2013 Pinot Noir and their 2014 Estate Pinot Noir.
Ironically and not known to Trini in our discussion, that in Gaelic, the name Gracianna means “beautiful and graceful, free sweet and innocent”. No wonder why I was immediately seduced to thoroughly enjoying this Pinot.
So no matter if you are being grateful this time of year or wanting to be “seduced”, this wine makes a perfect gift!
Slainte and Merry Christmas,
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Sounds a bit odd, using Old World techniques in a new vineyard, but Rudy Zuidema nailed it perfectly! Rudy has been making wine for almost 30 years with an impressive resume making wine for Red Cap Vineyards, Encanto Vineyards, Shadybrook Estate, Allora Vineyards, Kent Price Wines, and Alyris Winery. This new venture is his own brand, Zuidema Wines. In order to get to this position, he first put in the hard work at St. Clement Vineyards, working with local winemaker Dennis Johns. From there he climbed the industry ladder with positions in turn as assistant winemaker, head winemaker, vineyard manager and general manager at Cuvaison, Honig, Robert Craig, Ehlers Estate and White Cottage Ranch. He studied organic and biodynamic farming, receiving CCOF and Demeter certifications on several ranches. Rudy is well traveled in Napa Valley, utilizing his talents with many climates and varietals including AVAs of Howell Mountain, Coombsville, Rutherford, Mount George, Carneros, and St. Helena.
He secured this plot of land, located in Rutherford, in 2011 and was able to start from scratch with plantings. He choose Clone 515 Grenache from the famed Chateauneuf du Pape heritage and married it to the noble St George rootstock. This allowed his Grenache to be dry farmed in an Old World manner. No trellis, no wires, simply head trained soaking in the richness of the Rutherford soil. The label with the roots seeking minerals and nourishment, is more than an artist logo, it is his vineyard management style in full swing.
His inaugural release of this 2014 Grenache combines delicate finesse with the subtle power of Grenache. Rudy describes it as “the aromas are made up of white pepper, bright rhubarb, strawberry and blood orange peel. The bright acidity in the mid palate bursts with mixed berries, holiday spice and layers of anise and tarragon”. Even the finish gives a hint of the Old World with it being “rustic and not perfectly polished”. At a recent tasting with friends, most agreeing with the color being ruby to brick red, with cranberry fruit, having a spicy oak flavoring, yet showing the minerality of dry farming. Also at the same tasting, all agreed to a medium body, they also believed it was close to a $50 wine. Zuidema website shows $42. This is indeed an excellent showing for an inaugural wine release! Only 99 cases were made and it will go fast!
Rudy with his experience in the vineyard, winemaking and his choice of vines, seems to have merged some Old World techniques into a very promising future for Zuidema Wines.