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I will start this article off on a personal note. My education as a “philosopher” was impacted by many key historical intellectuals in the discipline. One of these thought provoking men was John Locke (1632-1704). He was one of the forefathers of Empiricist theory which states that we acquire ideas through our experience. Key was his notion of “tabula rasa”, the theory that at birth humans are born with a “blank mind” and without rules for processing data. One forms ideas solely by one’s sensory experiences. Enough of philosophy and on to the wine!
Now with that said, I immediately had an inquiring interest in Locke Vineyards in Murphys, California to see if any connection was there. So upon arriving and meeting both Kevin Locke and Kiki, real name Kirsten, (father/daughter team), I was “disappointed” in no tangible connection to Locke but that was short lived. As I spent time with them, one of Locke’s attributable quotes came to mind. It is “the discipline of desire is the background of character”. Kevin personified this with his desire to go beyond his forestry job to start a vineyard. Kevin and his wife Theresa first purchased a vineyard in Mountain Ranch in 1993 and another in Murphys in 1995. At first they simply sold the grapes to other wineries in the area. Then in 2003, Locke Vineyards label was first introduced. In 2013, Kevin retired from Cal Fire and has focused his devoted attention to the winery and vineyards. In 2018, The Barn on the Murphys property, became the new tasting room. Besides the tasting area, on the property they have a lavender, flower & culinary herb farm from which many of the items that are available in the shop are produced.
I was greeted and welcomed by Kiki with her broad smile. She provided many insights and detailed history on the properties and wines on the farm. She shared her vision as well as her fathers for future development. We tasted various wines and spent time with Kevin who augmented the discussion. Both of them possess a solid “background of character” John Locke had referred.
Clone 337 Clone 338
Today, Locke Vineyards offers a variety of wines which include Viognier, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Petite Verdot, Barbera and a few blends. Perhaps one of the key takeaways was the two different Clones of Cabernet grapes grown on the property. Kevin preferring the Clone 338 and the other Clone 337 (more commonly used in Napa, Livermore, Lodi). His reasoning being that the 338 produces slightly bigger berries and larger bunches to take the Calaveras County summer heat better.
With Kevin’s background in forestry, all winery bottles use trees. The two wines that stood out for me were the 2015 Viognier which only 60 cases were produced. This provided a medium bodied with a strong hint of creamy honeysuckle.
The other wine was their Sequoia, a red blend of 75% Zinfandel and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. On the eye is a very dark wine. It is a fruit forward blend with raspberry and blackberry being prominent, yet balanced on the palate and lingering in the mouth. Only 75 cases were produced.
In 2019, they will release a new creation, their Reserve Cabernet. This is aged in 100% new French barrels for 3 years. This will surely be something to be sought out!
While disappointed I had not met a direct family member of John Locke, I came away more than excited having met two charming, knowledgeable and solid people in the wine business. If experience is the way to knowledge, I just increase my knowledge tenfold in meeting Kevin and Kiki.
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This organization is heading by one dynamic woman, Founder & CEO, Carole Lawson. Carole’s goal is straightforward and is rooted in a passion to expose excellent small family run wineries to the public. She is focused on both wines and wineries which produce less than 5,000 cases per year. There are some prerequisites that must be made and can be found at their website. The Craft Wine organization desires to make known excellent family wines and wineries to the greater public. In today’s market with more and more acquisitions by the “large conglomerates” in the wine industry, the small artisan and boutique wineries are finding it difficult to get attention by consumers or distributors to showcase their wines. It is similar to what has transpired with the small and family run farms in America. (https://www.independentsciencenews.org/environment/america-becoming-a-land-without-farmers/).
Here are the basic tenants of the Craft Wine Association for Certification:
1. An identifiable winemaker. While a custom-crush or Alternating Proprietorship facility may be leveraged in the production of Certified Craft Wines. A Certified Craft Wine will have a winemaker leading production from the process of grape selection through fermentation. This is not just a crush employee, but a winemaker deeply involved with the winery.
2. Small lot productions of wine of fewer than 5,000 cases that rely solely on pre-prescribed protocols of a third party, or without that winemaker/winery connection, do not qualify for the Certified Craft Wine designation.
3. Grapes must come from an identifiable vineyard or identifiable vineyards. Wineries whose entire annual production is under 5,000 cases per year also qualify for the designation of Certified Craft Winery at no additional cost.
The Craft Wine Association also has “other designations” for those making larger quantities and that can be found at https://www.craftwine.org/. The key is to make the Craft Wine logo and the wines as easy to decipher as craft beers and as ubiquitous. Key is to be easily identified as a Craft Wine or Winery offering quality products, which are hard for the consumer to find, enjoy and appreciate Carole’s goal is to get this logo on all the small run wineries throughout the United States, be it on their bottles, on the wineries logo and press material.
At this last weekend’s Farm to Fork Event in Sacramento (https://sacramento.downtowngrid.com/events/2018-farm-to-fork-legends-of-wine/), where approximately 85,000 to 100,000 people attended, the Craft Wine Association held their first Craft Wine Pavilion. This allowed about eight of their members to pour and talk to those attending. The event was a tremendous success and the owner and winemaker members of the Certified Craft Winery Association who attended, were able to schedule visits to their wineries by interested consumers.
Since only “officially launching” in the beginning of 2018, Carole has enrolled 21 wineries and 10 of those are in California! Smaller wine communities like Calaveras AVA has embraced this recognition with open arms. Calaveras Winegrape Alliance has even scheduled a “Calaveras Craft Wine Trail” for Saturday, October 27th. Included at this event will be: vineyard and winery tours, exclusive tastings, the discovery of small batch/high quality wines, opportunities to receive discounts on purchases, meeting the winemakers and staff and lots more. Contact them online at https://calaveraswines.org/calaveras-craft-wine-trail/?utm_source=cawinesandwineries&utm_campaign=craft%20wine%20report for tickets.
So as their phrase statement reads “Rooted in Passion, Shared by the Glass”, The Craft Wine Association Certification is about to explode. Keep an eye out for this logo and some phenomenal wines being produced by their small family run wineries.
This could very well echo the sentiment of Delia Viader to her son Alan Viader. Delia Viader came to the United States from Argentina after receiving her PhD in philosophy from Sorbonne, in Paris. It was her training in philosophy, questioning via the dialectic method, to find “her truth”. This is not a simple story but is told in great detail in her autobiography called “Daring to Stand Alone, An Entrepreneur’s Journey”. This story is one of fighting the odds, having a vision and overcoming many obstacles in order to find your place and bring meaning to your life. Delia’s book is as deep in character as her vineyard roots on the Howell Mountain hillside. A fascinating book to read.
The break through news to get Viader wines on the map, was in 2000 when Delia found out that her 1997 Viader, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, was going to be in the Top 100 wines by Wine Spectator magazine. And more specifically, her Viader was rated #2 of the Top 100 wines. Her accolades continued at an outstanding pace with the wines consistently rated highly.
In 2002, Alan came to work as the vineyard manager, taking his experience in various areas like Spain, Portugal and of course Argentina and France. In 2005, a tragedy struck with a fire at their warehouse storage along with many others. She lost her entire 2003 vintage and had nothing to show for a year. She continue going to wine and trade shows with a barrel and handmade labels to “show her great wines”. She literally turned the business around and out of the ashes, a modern Phoenix woman. She spun her business from a distribution wine business to a DTC, direct to customer within months. No small feat for a family run business.
In 2006 Alan took over the winemaking for Viader wines and has continued the legacy. Today the production is just under 5,000 cases. Alan, continues the labels that Delia started like the 2015 Dare, 100% Cabernet Franc, 2015 Viader Black Label (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Malbec) and 2015 Viader Signature of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, 69% & 31% respectively. These intense wines are as Delia stated “not hijacking your taste buds but makes you come back for more” and they are smooth and silky. Today this is where Alan is adding his own unique perspective, with a slight touch more oak.
To that end, they have just introduced Homenaje. This wine made by Alan, is to showcase the wineries 30 year anniversary and pay homage to both Delia and his grandfather for their vision, help and accomplishments. It is a blend of predominately Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon with a small amount of Cabernet Franc & Petite Verdot. This is an outstanding treat to enjoy! Alan stated he wanted to bring forth “an expression through new things” like adding Malbec to the Viader lineup. The family business is in great hands moving forward under Alan, and he is leaving his unique footprint is the steps of his mother.
When Sue Tipton founded Acquiesce Winery, she was on a mission unique to Lodi AVA and in fact, most vinicultural areas. She sought out to offer only “white Rhone wines”!! She was chastised and admonished why she should not focus on “solely white wines”. Yes based on her passion and life experiences in France, she proceeded without wavering. She sourced and planted the best vines from the Chateau de Beaucastel of Chateauneuf du Pape on her quest. Today she has and continues making artisan and award winning boutique wines. Her awards are too numerous to list, but include International Women’s Wine Competition Gold Medal, California State Fair Commercial Wine Competition Gold Medal, American Fine Wine Competition Double Gold, SF Chronicle Wine Competition Gold Medal and many, many more.
Those wines include Grenache Blanc, Picpoul Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier, Clairette Blanche, Bourboulenc and Belle Blanc (blend). She currently produces 2300 cases and has set a goal to reach 3400 cases with this year’s harvest. Unique to Acquiesce is that once they sell out (which they do each year), the tasting room closes down. She typically closes mid-November and re-opens in March. Strong hint!
The scope of meeting with Sue was to taste two unique varietals which I was personally not familiar. The first was the Picpoul Blanc. Visually this is varietal is faint and almost translucent with a pale yellow hue. On the nose pineapple was the predominate scent coupled with minerality. Picpoul means to “sting the lips” yet this wine was much more embracing and had a disguised light sweetness. This wine was made to pair with oysters in Europe. Sue also believes in the New World, it is excellent with spicy Thai food and dishes with cilantro. In 2017 only 220 cases were produced and all going to wine club members. In 2018 based upon expected yields, she is looking to increase that number to 350 cases. As an aside, approximately only 40 acres are planted with this grape varietal in the USA!
The second wine I purposed to taste was the 2017 Bourboulenc. This is the first bottling of this varietal in the USA! Only 60 cases were produced and again for Wine Club Members only. This comes across with light honey taste and soft citrus. While very limited it is a true gem to imbibe. From Wikipedia “Bourboulenc wine has a good acidity level, body, penetrating character, citrus aromas and a hint of smoke”.
Sue takes her passion and “white wine knowledge” to the public with pride and is soft spoken about her mission. She has proved many critics wrong and her vast number of awards, shows her tenacity and commitment to these unique wine varietals. Her awards also extend to the more common white Rhone varietals like Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Viognier. But don’t call them “common” as they are uncommonly delicious!
Perhaps a “different name” for a winery, but not really. Donald Patz, of Patz and Hall Pinot Noir fame, moved back to Napa and has opened Secret Door Winery making exquisite and artisan Cabernet Sauvignon’s. So with this writing and few others, it is no longer a secret! What is a secret is what he has planned for the upcoming years. While we spent almost two hours discussing various aspects of what the future will hold for Donald Patz and a couple of projects he is working on, I think the real secret is the rejuvenation and vitalization of Donald Patz. Donald is energetic and bouncing with glee to get back to his roots (Napa and Cabernet Sauvignon) where he originally started his career. He is taking his years of experience and launching forward with a creative purpose to make his similar mark in the Cabernet Sauvignon world.
I asked what the differences were with this project verses the years at Patz & Hall. He noted three distinct entities that he is embarking on. The first being locations. He has acquired rights to various vineyards in hand selected areas he deemed fitting for his Cabernet. Each vineyard brings with it both challenges and stewardship of the vines to extract what he believes will be some of the finest juices for Secret Door Winery.
The second difference is his view on barrel fermentation and choices of barrels. Be it Cabernet or another varietal, he has experimented and now selected his barrels of choice. He is using Vicard G7 barrels. What was behind this decision was revealing on various fronts. First the “G” is the new generation seven barrel and process. Vicard send thru the staves for optical sorting for tannins. This allows him to select the correct staves for the wine as well as just the right amount of toasting required per the varietal.
The third difference was his goal to pick less ripe, which means lower alcohol. He believes this is a trend for both Millennials and Gen X/Y wine buyers of the future.
So without divulging too many secrets, the Secret Door Winery is but one of his ventures. Secret Door currently has two vintages out: the 2014 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Lot: Secret 1Z and the other being Lot: Secret 1X. His next release will be the 2017 Stags Leap District “Hirondelle Vineyard” which has approximately 500 cases in barrel today. Along with this he will also be releasing Napa Valley “Sage Ridge Vineyard” with about 300 cases in barrel today.
Listen closely, the next two BIG secrets are:
1) Terminim Wines, a collaboration of Francois Villard and Donald Patz. The first is their 2017 “Cepages d’ Or” (grapes of gold) a 66% of Marsanne and 34% Roussanne from the “Alder Springs Vineyard” in Mendocino County with 135 cases. The name is derived from the “terminus” the Roman God of borders and boundaries. While not tasting it yet (soon however), it possess “lively textures and freshness” per Donald. Another varietal from this project is their Syrah. Donald along with Francois Villard of Rhone Valley developed and implemented some unique techniques to the traditional punching down the cap. This new “Methode Francois” allows them to make a wine “without searing levels of tannin and creates a smoother more rounded and elegant presence”. More details when I do the actual wine review.
2) Maritana Vineyards a project for developing and producing the highest quality of grapes for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Here Donald is implementing his strategy to develop a more balanced and “elegant and perfumed version to show through” with choices of grapes with selected aged barrels. On his Pinot Noir, he has secured three vineyards in the Russian River AVA. For this varietal he is using approximately 60% new oak barrels. The wines for Maritana Vineyards will be his Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2017, “Le Russe”; the Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2017 “La Riviere”; Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2017 “Dutton Ranch/Hansen Hill Vineyard” and his Russian River Chardonnay 2017 “Dutton Ranch/Shop Block 1967”. The last using vines planted in 1967 and using 50 year old vines in his Chardonnay production!
The specific goals for all his wines are to have beautiful floral aromas, stabilized and permanent bright coloring to the eye. Lofty and elegant goals to be sure but he is implementing creative and imaginative techniques to achieve his desired outcome.
As in the opening sentence, the real secret is not so much the door, but what and where this new door is leading Donald Patz to in his invigorated quest to produce something unique to the wine world.
Secluded in the Acampo area, this charming and quaint facility hosts the tasting room for Paskett Vineyards & Winery. It is owned and operated by Lorraine Paskett. Stacey Caton is the tasting room manager and was our host extraordinaire when visiting.
Paskett Winery produces estate wines and has selected vineyards in the Lodi AVA. Estate wines include Cabernet Sauvignon and Charbono. Their non-estate wines are Albarino, Barbera, Verdelho, Malbec and Petit Verdot.
Two wines which caught my attention were the 2016 Verdelho the 2016 Albarino —both excellent wines for summer. First the 2016 Verdelho. Not one of more common grapes in the USA, Verdelho is a white wine grape grown in Portugal, especially on the island of Madeira. Verdelho is a traditional varietal gown on Pico Island in the Azores. In Spain it is called Verdello. It is also grown in Australia as Verdelho. Portugal grows 58% of the world varietal production and Australia 36%, followed by the USA doing 3%. With each area having its own “regional taste”, but the predominance of lime, honeysuckle and honeydew melon is the standout aroma and taste. Some may show more pear or tropical fruits, but all tend to have good acidity and clean freshness both to the palate and eye. The Paskett 2016 Verdelho was on point to these traits and a welcome change of pace for the warm weather!
The Paskett 2016 Albarino is also a lesser known but an intriguing varietal growing in popularity. It is known to grow best in sandy or clay soils-perfect for Lodi AVA. The wine is known for its botanical flavor including notes of orange and acacia blossom, lemon grass, honeysuckle, peach, apricot and nectarine, passion fruit and jasmine. It is most often paired with seafood. This wine is aromatic and possess high acidity. The Paskett 2016 Albarino again hit the target, especially for an alternative summer wine.
Enjoy these “lesser known” gems from Paskett Vineyards and Winery this summer or for that matter anytime!
The name Hanna means different things in various languages. For example Hanna in Kurdish means hope, in Persian the name means flower and in Arabic it means happiness for example. Those various meaning might just sum up the experience of Hanna Winery—hope, flower and happiness. Hope the vision and expectation of winery founder Dr. Elias S. Hanna. Christine, his daughter is today the President of the Winery. Flower in that the bouquets of Hanna wines are fresh and lively and all their wines extoll happiness on those who experience them on their palate.
In June 2018, I had the opportunity to visit and discuss the operation and wines of Hanna Winery. I became aware of Hanna Winery from a press release that they had announced their 2015 Alexander Valley Saint Macaire. For background, Saint Macaire is the missing varietal from the Old World Bordeaux. This along with Carmenere grapes have long been excluded from the fine Bordeaux’s coming out of France. I had heard about Saint Macaire years ago with only one other winery using a small percentage in their Bordeaux version on Howell Mountain. So the hunt was on to taste and experience something that was thought to be lost! Currently in the Unites States, only one acre of Saint Macaire is planted and in production. Hanna Winery has 50% of the production with a half-acre planted.
Earlier this year, a tasting panel scored the Saint Macaire at 95 points. The uniqueness of the wine couple with distinct flavor profiles, made this the find of the visit to Sonoma Valley. The mix is 77% Saint Macaire, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec and 2% Merlot. On the eye it is has a dark purple hue and possess a bright glow. Having never tasted a Saint Macaire, I was anxious with curiosity. It produced as their winemakers notes stated, “peppercorn, sage leaf, saddle leather and Darjeeling tea. By mouth fruit emerges as kirsch and grilled fig”. What I got most of the taste was the medium to medium heavy viscosity in the glass and a long lingering finish lasting thirty seconds or more on the back of the throat. This finish was definitely in class by itself. This also scored my highest marks thus far in 2018.
The grounds and tasting room of Hanna Winery were spectacular in the views of Alexander Valley and uncommon, was their ability to produce a robust and quality wine across all varietals—Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Zinfandel and a few unique blends.
In closing Hanna Winery & Vineyards delivered as its meaning with “hope (bringing back a lost varietal), flower (bouquet and aromas) and happiness (the pleasure of tasting)”. Truly, one winery that should be sought out on your next visit to Alexander Valley.