riesling

Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler Estate Dry Riesling – A New Wine for me!

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Photo ©Michael Kelly

Background

While traveling during the holiday season visiting family, my wife prepared a meal of Pad Thai for the family. While in California my favorite and go to wine for this dish is Smith-Madrone Riesling from Spring Mountain. However, I did not find one in Arizona, so I picked up this bottle at a local wine store chain and was very impressed.

The Winery

Photo from Dr Heidemanns-Bergweiler Winery

The Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler Estate has approximately 30 acres of Riesling vineyards in the steeply sloped Middle-Mosel area. More than 75% of their vineyards are marked as “Steillage” (German for steep slope or incline). The vineyard soils are mostly Devon slate residual soils with varying parts of topsoil and mineral stone. The slate gives the wines a delicate and cool minerality which is typical for a Moselle Riesling. The combination of cool climate, slate and Riesling makes their wines unique.

They currently produce Pinot Noir, Dornfelder, Ice-wine, Sparkling and a variety of Rieslings ranging from dry to sweet. Most of their wines scored in the low to mid-90’s from Wine Enthusiast and others, all being noted for complexity and depth.

The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson

Photo ©Michael Kelly

This dry Riesling from Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler has a refreshing and intense aromas of Jasimine that exudes significant power. The taste is marked by a distinctive acidity. It is dry and possesses mango and guava flavors with a tinge of citrus, notably lime. Medium viscosity packing a lively punch. The finish provides earthy stoniness and slate-like hints.

Generally found around $20/bottle.

The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon

Photo ©Michael Kelly

Duck, Pork, Bacon, Chicken, Shrimp, and Crab are suggested foods for Riesling. Chose this wine to pair with one of my favorite dishes, Chicken Pad Thai. The Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler Riesling was purchased for this meal due to spiciness of the Chicken Pad Thai or at least the way we prepare it! Last evening went with a much more flavorful and spicier recipe. The ingredients were fresh whole wheat noodles, virgin olive oil, minced garlic, cooked chicken, eggs, bean sprouts, sliced red bell pepper, green onions, peanuts and lime juice. The Pad Thai sauce included fish sauce, soy sauce, brown sugar, rice vinegar, Momofuku Chili Crunch and creamy peanut butter! The Riesling being very dry was spot on for this meal.

Limes were plated to squeeze the juice over the top of the dish as well as ground peanuts, cilantro and green onion slices. Accompanying the meal was a fresh garden salad. The meal was packed with a punch of flavor and warmth! The 2024 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler pinched hit perfectly for the meal. The wine was refreshing and quenched the palate.

The 2024 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler Riesling just made the Best Wines tasted in 2026 (mid-Dec 2025 to mid-Dec 2026) in the under $50/category. I would like to taste their single vineyard Riesling’s in the future.

Sláinte,

Michael

https://californiawinesandwineries.com

https://heidemanns-bergweiler.com

2021 Smith-Madrone Vineyards Riesling – Perfection of a Varietal

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Photo from Wikipedia & Lamborghini

This picture of a Lamborghini Revuelto may seem a bit off to start a wine story, yet the quality, elegance, craftmanship and rarity of this car is tantamount to the 2021 Smith-Madrone Riesling. And as a bonus the wine cost $40/bottle as opposed to a starting cost of $612,858!

The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson

Photo ©Michael Kelly

A quick background on Riesling shows it is the 20th most grown variety and in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the “top three” white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted worldwide” per Wikipedia.  Riesling is adaptable to grow in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of citrus and peach notes for warm, apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.

Photo ©Michael Kelly

In the California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush white wine harvest in 2024 was 1,401,048 tons. The top four wines by tonnage were Chardonnay, French Colombard, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc representing 80% of the harvest tonnage. Riesling did not show up as a separate category in 2024! Why? Perhaps it is the “bum rap” that Riesling wines are “sweet”? This is the furthest from the truth with Smith-Madrone with residual sugar coming in at .021%.

The 2021 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apple on the nose. The aromatics were so intense they hit the olfactory senses after the cork was popped, and I was carrying the bottle to the table! A deeper golden yellow color than previous vintages with medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lemon zest, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the secondary flavors of lime citrus. A modicum of beeswax making it extremely mouth filling can be found. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity is counterbalanced with the delicious fruit bounty. Coming in at 13.2% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,258 cases. The current release is their 2021 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.

Photo ©Michael Kelly

This vintage will make my annual Best Wines Tasted during the calendar year. This list is reserved for approximately 2-3% of the roughly 1800 wines tasted annually. It should be noted that Smith-Madrone Riesling has made this list for the last five years with various vintages!

The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon

Photo ©Michael Kelly

Duck, Pork, Bacon, Chicken, Shrimp, and Crab are suggested foods for Riesling. Previously the 2019 vintage of Riesling was paired with one of my favorite dishes, chicken Pad Thai. This evening the dish was lemon garlic and shrimp pasta. It was prepared with fettuccine pasta and jumbo shrimp. Ingredients included olive oil, unsalted butter, minced garlic, Himalayan sea salt, black pepper, dried oregano, baby spinach, Parmesan cheese, chopped parsley and lemon juice. The meal was accompanied by a fresh Cesar salad.

Rather than add typical red chili flakes, substituted Flatiron Pepper Company Calabrian Chile Pepper.

 Photo ©Michael Kelly

Calabrian chile peppers are from Calabria, Italy and are vibrant and spicy. Known for being moderately spicy and yet bright and with a fruit undertone. Calabrian chiles are often preserved in oil which tends to mellow out their heat a bit, adding a noted “kick” without overwhelming the dish. This was the first time using this sample packet with seafood and now I am convinced of the value of these flavorful chile flakes. These Chile flakes come from New Mexico and are spelled with an “e”!

Riesling, especially a dry one, is excellent with light and just slightly spicy pasta. The wine with its acidity and fruit, both complement and counterbalance the natural sweetness of the shrimp and cut through the butter and garlic. The acidity in the Riesling brightens the meal and refreshes the palate. The fruit notes (lemon, lime, stone fruits) enhance the flavors of the shrimp. The fruits also provided a refreshing and noted contrast with the red pepper flakes.

This was an excellent food and wine pairing this evening!

The Winery

Photo ©Michael Kelly

Smith-Madrone Vineyards are located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet.

                                                          On the left Stuart and Charles on the right                       Photo ©Michael Kelly

The Founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker, and the associate winemaker is François Bugué. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They produce Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc).

Sláinte,

Michael

https://californiawinesandwineries.com

https://www.smithmadrone.com

https://flatironpepper.com

2019 Smith-Madrone Vineyards and Pad Thai – A Perfect Marriage

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The Winery

Photo ©Michael Kelly

Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker and the associate winemaker is François Bugué. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They produce Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc).

The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson

Photo ©Michael Kelly

A quick background on Riesling. It is the 20th most grown variety and in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the top three white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted world wide” per Wikipedia.  Riesling is adaptable to growing in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of  citrus and peach notes for warm,  apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.

In the California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush white wine harvest in 2023 was 1,709,270 tons. Riesling was only 34,057 tons, but it showed an increase of 6% outpacing Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Photo ©Michael Kelly

The 2019 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apple on the nose. A more golden yellow color than previous vintage with medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lemon zest, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the lime citrus. A modicum of beeswax makes it extremely mouth filling. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity is jovial and enticing with a semi-sweet crescendo. Very low residual sugar (.7%) and coming in at 13.3% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,087 cases. The current release is their 2019 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.

The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon

Duck, Pork, Bacon, Chicken, Shrimp, and Crab are suggested foods for Riesling. Chose this wine to pair with one of my favorite dishes, Chicken Pad Thai. The Smith-Madrone 2019 Estate Riesling was pulled from cellar for last night’s meal due to spiciness of the dish Chicken Pad Thai or at least the way we prepare it! Last evening went with a much more flavorful and spicier recipe. The ingredients were fresh whole wheat noodles, virgin olive oil, minced garlic, cooked chicken, eggs, bean sprouts, sliced red bell pepper, green onions, peanuts and lime juice. The Pad Thai sauce included fish sauce, soy sauce, brown sugar, rice vinegar, Momofuku Chili Crunch and creamy peanut butter!   The Riesling’s very dry with a tinge of semi-sweet finish was spot on for this meal.

Photo ©Michael Kelly

Limes were plated to squeeze the juice over the top of the dish as well as ground peanuts and green onion slices. Accompanying the meal was a fresh garden salad. The meal was packed with a punch of flavor and warmth! The 2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling was a godsend. The wine was refreshing and quenched the palate.

The 2018 Smith-Madrone Riesling had made the Best Wines tasted in 2023 and the 2019 will also make my Best Wines tasted in 2024! We stock this wine specifically for this food and wine pairing.

Sláinte,

Michael

https://californiawinesandwineries.com

https://www.smithmadrone.com

https://momofuku.com/

2018 Smith-Madrone Vineyards Riesling – A Slice of Heaven on Spring Mountain

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The Winery

Looking east across the upper Napa Valley Photo ©Michael Kelly

Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The Founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate grown and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Annual production is between 3,000 to 4,000 cases a year. Currently they are producing Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc).

A quick background on Riesling shows it is the 20th most grown variety and in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the “top three” white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted worldwide” per Wikipedia.  Riesling is adaptable to growing in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of  citrus and peach notes for warm,  apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.

In the California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush white wine harvest in 2023 was 1,709,270 tons. Riesling was only 34,057 tons, but it showed an increase of 6% outpacing Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

Stuart on the left and Charlie on the right Photo ©Michael Kelly

While producing various wine varietals, they are known for their dry and exotic Riesling throughout the world! On this recent visit, I was given the opportunity to taste various previous vintages to access their aging ability. It was startling how well a solidly produced Riesling can endure having tasted 2003, 2010 and 2019 from Smith-Madrone.

The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson

Photo ©Michael Kelly

The 2018 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apple on the nose. A light radiant golden yellow color and medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lime, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the lime citrus. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity is jovial and enticing with a semi-sweet crescendo. Very low residual sugar (.7%) and coming in at 13.3% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,611 cases. The current release is their 2019 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.

The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon

Photo ©Michael Kelly

Chose this wine for this evening’s meal of seared Ahi tuna. Rubbed with soy sauce and patted on all sides with a combination of black & white sesame seed, black pepper, garlic salt and sugar. Then placed on the 1500-degree BBQ for one and a half minutes on each side including edges. Plated on an Asian chopped salad/cabbage with Asian dressing. Pineapple slices placed on top of salad and the cut slices of Ahi tuna placed on top. Drizzled with a homemade wasabi, ginger, honey and lemon sauce.  Then garnished with slices of green onions and cilantro. This was an enjoyable food and wine pairing with the Riesling being crisp with sufficient acidity to complement the delicate flavors of the tuna.

This wine along with their 2019 both made my annual Best Tasted during the year 2024. That list comes out mid-December and represents about 2% of the wines tasted during the year.

Sláinte,

Michael

https://californiawinesandwineries.com

https://www.smithmadrone.com/

2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling – A Classic Riesling

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The Winery

 (Photo taken by Matthew Denny)

Smith-Madrone Vineyards is located on 200 acres on top of Spring Mountain west of St. Helena with 38 acres planted in vineyards. The vineyard elevation ranges from 1,300 to 2,000 feet. The Founder, managing partner and enologist is Stuart Smith, Charles Smith is the winemaker and the associate winemaker is François Bugué. Truly a family affair! All the wines are estate and dry-farmed on top of the mountain. Currently their production is approximately 6,000 cases a year. They are producing Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon and their iconic Cooks Flat (blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc).

The Wine – “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson

Photo ©Michael Kelly

A quick background on Riesling shows it is the 20th most grown variety and  in “terms of importance for quality wines, it is usually included in the “top three” white wine varieties together with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc planted world wide” per Wikipedia.  Riesling is adaptable to grow in both warm and cool climates with the flavors varying per temperature respectively of  citrus and peach notes for warm,  apple and tree fruit for cooler temperature regions.

In the California Dept of Food & Agriculture Grape Crush white wine harvest in 2023 was 1,709,270 tons. Riesling was only 34,057 tons, but it showed an increase of 6% outpacing Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

The 2019 Riesling is extremely aromatic with floral notes and green apple on the nose. A more golden yellow color than previous vintage with medium viscosity. On the palate, hints of lemon zest, mixed with stone fruits (white peach and apricots) tame the lime citrus. A modicum of beeswax making it extremely mouth filling. On the finish, the minerality comes through strong and pure from either the volcanic soil, or sandstone, limestone or the general rocky soil found on the property. The minerality and acidity is jovial and enticing with a semi-sweet crescendo. Very low residual sugar (.7%) and coming in at 13.3% alcohol, Smith-Madrone Vineyards produced 1,087 cases. The current release is their 2019 and listed on their website for $40/bottle.

The Food and Wine PairingFood without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon

Duck, Pork, Bacon, Chicken, Shrimp, and Crab are suggested foods for Riesling. Chose this wine to pair with one of my favorite dishes, Chicken Pad Thai. However with my wife still recovering, this is the first time I prepared it. The Smith-Madrone 2019 Estate Riesling was pulled from the cellar for last night’s meal due to the spiciness of the dish called Chicken Pad Thai. Last evening went with a much more flavorful and spicy recipe. The ingredients were fresh angel hair noodles, virgin olive oil, minced garlic, cooked chicken, eggs, bean sprouts, sliced red bell pepper, green onions, peanuts, chopped cilantro and lime juice. The Pad Thai sauce included fish sauce, soy sauce, brown sugar, rice vinegar, Sriracha and creamy peanut butter!   The Riesling’s semi-sweet finish was spot on for this meal.

Photo ©Michael Kelly

Limes were plated to squeeze the juice over the top of the dish. Accompaning the meal was a fresh garden salad and steamed broccoli. The meal packed a punch of flavor and warmth! The 2019 Smith-Madrone Riesling was a godsend. The wine was refreshing and quenched the palate.

Photos ©Michael Kelly

The meal was fixed for friends joining us for dinner and one bringing the salad and the other bringing the broccoli. Beyond the dinner we enjoyed talking and sipping some other wonderful wines during and after the dinner for hours.

Photos ©Michael Kelly

The 2018 Smith-Madrone Riesling had made the Best Wines tasted in 2023 and the 2019 will also make my Best Wines tasted in 2024!

Sláinte,

Michael

https://californiawinesandwineries.com

https://www.smithmadrone.com