paso-robles-wines
CabFranc Masters Media Dinner at JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery
At the conclusion of the CabFranc Masters Day in Paso Robles last weekend, the media and special guests were invited to JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery for a memorable dinner. It has the distinction of being a one-star Michelin restaurant. However, this evening it could have easily received three! The estate has its own herb garden overlooking the vineyards.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery has also earned a Green Star that recognizes restaurants that hold themselves to the highest ethical and environmental standards. JUSTIN is the only winery in the United States to earn both honors.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The restaurant has also been awarded a Five-Star rating by Forbes Travel Guide as well as Five Diamonds by AAA. It is truly a dining experience to be enjoyed and appreciated.
Picture from https://www.worldsofflavor.com/
The Executive Chef, Rachel Haggstrom, prepared an exotic assortment of foods to be enjoyed. Five wineries provided wines which were exquisitely paired with each dish.
We, Susan Kelly and I, began the evening being seated at a table with Stasi Seay Director of Vineyards at Hope Family Wines, Susan Durbrow National Sales Manager Wineries for Riedel and Amanda Gorter winemaker for Robert Hall. Having just five people at the table allowed lively and fun conversations all evening. During the evening, lots of stimulating and informative dialogue ensued about each winery Riedel glassware and the Paso Robles experience.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The first dish of the evening was called Santa Barbara Uni with cilantro and blood orange paired with a 2023 Blanc de Franc by LXV Wines. The 100% Cabernet Franc wine was aromatic with fresh fruit and traces of violets. On the palate cherries and peach notes. Contrasting with the blood orange and cilantro awoke the senses to the dishes that were to come.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up was Creekstone Farms Prime Beef Carpaccio with pecorio, arugula, cured egg and potato paired with Robert Hall Winery 2022 Cavern Select Cabernet Franc. The wine presented lush aromas of red plum and dried herbs with flavors of blackberry and velvety tannins on the finish. The food and wine pairing were spot on!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Freshly baked bread and hand churned herb butter were also served.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The next dish provided was California Lamb Culurgione consisting of dandelion pesto, pickled mustard seed and lamb braising jus served with a 2022 Mid-Point Irreverence Cabernet Franc. The wine paying homage to Loire Valley tradition 100% Cabernet Franc. Key notes of floral and vegetal defined this wine.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This was definitely one of the table’s favorite food dish of the evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Rounding out the main dishes for the evening was called Braised Creekstone Farms Beef Cheek with mushroom, turnip and braising jus. Paired with a 2017 JUSTIN Justification wine. This wine in the glass was almost black with deep depths of purple juice. Aromas of black and red cherries along with cedar and chocolate sprang into the senses. On the palate the fruits with smoky tannins danced merrily in the mouth. The balance of the two varietals was smooth and enjoyable. This presentation caught our entire table’s interest and was delicious.
Finishing the evening was spectacular, as if it wasn’t already, with a Chocolate Molten Cake with beet and Vanilla Anglaise. This dish was so rich and decadent, it truly was a guilty pleasure!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This was paired with a 2022 Austin Hope Cellar Select Cabernet Franc. Again, a deep dark Cabernet Franc with layers upon layers of flavors and structure. Truly one of the richest and “almost chewable” wines of the evening which enticing flavors paired so well with the dessert.
All the food and wines were simply heavenly, exotic and wonderful but even those words don’t describe the totality of the evening. The service and wait staff were diligent and attentive all evening. On a personal note, my two favorite wines and pairings were the 2017 JUSTIN Justification, and the 2022 Austin Hope Cellar Select.
A very special thanks to Neeta & Kunal Mittal of LXV Wines, Maeve Pesquera Executive VP of Luxury, Chef Rachel Haggstrom, Sommelier Jason Santos, each of the wineries that provided their splendid wines and our table companions for an evening that will forever be etched in our memories.
Slainte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
#cabfrancmasters
2025 CabFranc Masters – Cabernet Franc Food & Wine Pairing Seminar
While attending the various events last weekend, one of the outstanding sessions was called the Versatile Franc Food & Wine Pairing Seminar put on by Sommelier Jason Santos and Chef Charlie Paladin Wayne of Cass Event Center.
When doing my food and wine pairing for my website, I always quote Andre Simon that “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners”. Every wine brings out the best in food and food brings out the best in wine! While some wines can be fully enjoyed by themselves, more often food heightens the experience. There are two distinct methodologies that I and chef, Susan my wife, have used for years. Jason highlighted and emphasized both during the presentation. They are Congruent meaning that the two are in balance and sympatico with each other. This is more akin to a peaceful accord between the food and wine sharing similar flavors or compounds. The other method is Contrasting. This is where a counterbalance effect takes place, more of a Yin-Yang effect, which showcases the opulence in the wine or the exotic flavors in the food.
The key in any food and wine pairing is to taste the food and take a sip of the wine. Repeat and repeat for three times to get the full effect to determine the symbiotic relationship between the two or does one intensify the experience of the other? A great food and wine pairing will result in being the two together are greater than the sum of the parts.
Jason broke down both the wine and food portions into the following categories:
Wine Food
Acidity Sweet
Tannins Sour
Alcohol Salty
Residual Sugar Bitter
“Dominate Flavors” Unami, Spicy
From there were treated to five wines and five foods. The idea was to pair the wines and food to find both a congruent and contrasting pairing. The wines were blindly tasted not knowing who the vintner was, but a full description of the food was given. All were Cabernet Franc or a Cabernet Franc blend. Then, if possible, use the flavor map to highlight the results.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First up was a crostini with Taleggio cheese and roasted grapes. The toasted bread adds a touch of bitterness, balancing the richness of the cheese and sweet-sour nature of the of the roasted grapes. The sweetness in the dish can accentuate the acidity of the wine.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The next pairing was a roasted chicken with Portobello mushroom & farro. The description of loads of brown rice and the mushrooms provided earthy flavors for this dish, making it rich. The earthiness of the dish drives the wine choice – be it to compliment or to contrast it.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The third pairing was personally my favorite a Bee Bim Bop – Kimchi pork roll. While generally consisting of rice, carrots, spinach, soybean sprouts, mushrooms, Korean radish and Gochujang. The details were not fully given but I am working on them and will update this article when I receive them. The outside was coated with an incredible flavor. Some recipes can have up to 30 ingredients.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Next up was a seared lamb with dark cherries and Dijon. The description was that lamb’s gamey-fatty nature coupled beautifully with the cherries and mustard that counterbalanced the protein. The cherries serve to enhance the dish complimenting the gaminess of the lamb and the mission was to look for a wine that provided a similar experience. After all the tastings were completed, this was the crowd favorite by a show of hands!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The final food pairing was a chocolate and salted caramel truffle. Bitter dark chocolate notes were quickly mellowed by the sweetness of the caramel, then the lightly salted offering perked up the taste buds. Desserts with “dry wines” are generally more difficult but following the bitterness of the chocolate one can generally find a complimentary wine. This was so rich and decadent!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The five wines used were revealed at the conclusion as:
Photo ©Michael Kelly
#1 – 2021 Adeleida Cabernet Franc, Signature “Viking Estate” – 100% Cab Franc
#2 – 2022 Brecon Estate Cabernet Franc, 82% Cab Franc, 9% Cab Sauvignon and small percentages of Petit Verdot, Tannat, Syrah and Malbec.
#3 – 2022 J. Lohr Vineyards and Wines, Cuvee St E, 69% Cabernet Franc, 26% Cab Sauvignon and 5% Malbec
#4 – 2017 Justin Vineyards & Wines Justification, 65% Cabernet Franc and 35% Merlot
#5 – 2022 LXV Wines Reserve Cabernet Franc being 100% Cabernet Franc
Trying different wines with the five foods presented provided a great opportunity to find one or two which either complimented or contrasted beautifully with the foods.
My personal rule of thumb when trying different wines is to rely on my memory of what the wine tasted like from a prior experience and select one that should work. But as with all good plans sometimes it doesn’t necessarily work out that way. This is where one of my favorite anonymous quotes comes into play that I fully endorse “Adventure may hurt you, but monotony will kill you”. Experiment and don’t always go with the conventional thinking on wine and food pairings. And worse case, you can open another bottle wine!
Sláinte,
Michael Kelly
https://californiawinesandwineries.com
#CabFrancMasters
2022 Meso Cabernet Franc by LXV Wines – Dark, Alluring, Poetic and Intense
Photo from LXV Wines Website
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
There is a fine line between poetry and wine. Add the rich and proud heritage of Indian culture, the descriptions become intertwined. When thinking about Indian poetry it conjures up rich imagery and philosophical depth. Adding a lyrical poetry element and you have an appropriate description of this wine!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First, Meso refers to mesoclimate for a specific vineyard site influenced by elevation, proximity to water and land gaps. It is between the larger macroclimate (region) and smaller microclimate (specific area within a vineyard). The 2022 Meso by LXV Wines Cabernet Franc is 100% Cabernet Franc. It comes from the Willow Creek District of the Paso Robles AVA. It was aged in 50% new French oak barrels (Quintessence Montpensier and Darnajou) and 50% used French oak.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
First on the eyes the almost black coloring of deep rich fruits entices one to partake of this elixir. Once the aromas waft from the glass, one is excited beyond ordinary expectations like a child on Christmas morning. On the palate, blackberry, ripe plum and soft vanilla pipe tobacco swirl about in the mouth. LXV Meso is all about textural experience and this on the palate exemplifies this with both sharp and embracing tannins. Counterbalanced with the concentrated and lively fruit. The long-lasting finish provides that rhythmic and lyrical enticement mentioned earlier with the similarity to poetry.
It is 100% Cabernet Franc and lists at $150/bottle. This year at the 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition it received scores of Gold and Double Gold from two different sets of judges. One of the more enticing and rich Cabernet Franc wines tasted. It will make my annual Best Wines tasted for 2025.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a beef filet mignon. Seasoned, seared and then BBQ’ed to medium rare. Danish Blue cheese crumbles topped off the steak. Accompanied by roasted potatoes with fresh grated Parmesan cheese and garlic French bread. Also, a fresh garden salad with Danish Blue cheese, fresh Roma tomatoes and green onions. The tannins cut through the tender meat and provided a perfect food and wine pairing.
The Winery and Wine Tasting Experience
LXV provides a unique tasting experience. So much so that they were rated one of the Top 10 tasting experiences as rated by USA Today. LXV, besides holding regular wine tasting, provide an optional spice pairing. The spice pairings are far reaching with Peruvian, Mystic Orient, Smolder Notes, Turkish Shores, Shmeli Suneli and many more spice packets. One is whisked away with their proprietary blends to capture the adventures of different cultures and culinary treats.
Photo of Neeta Mittal from their website
The idea of exotic spices started with Neeta’s mother in a town south of Mumbai. Her mother would regularly visit the spice markets to purchase fragrant herbs and spices to go with their handmade Tandoori Masala. One of the goals of spice tasting is to open the confined discussion of pH and acidity of wine to a broad horizon of international flavors.
Today they offer besides a variety of “Bordeaux influenced wines”, others like Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Syrah and many more. For more information you can read a previously published story:
Sláinte,
Michael
2022 J. Lohr Vineyards and Wines Cabernet Franc – Don’t Judge a Book By It’s Cover!
Background
Never were truer words stated by George Eliot in the 1860 novel “The Mill on the Floss”. So it can be said of judging wines often seen in grocery stores by the company they keep! Admittedly I had relegated J. Lohr wines as “grocery store” wines. That was without a doubt a total misgiving and corrected by the knowledgeable VP of J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines Steve Peck a couple of years ago. I am forever grateful for “getting the straight story” about the winery.
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Here is an image of one of their “mass-produced” bottles that can be seen in grocery and liquor stores. Thinking that was the extent of the quality portfolio, I often walked by J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines offering in stores much to my embarrassment.
They do have eight 145,000-gallon tanks on their property called Bottle Ready Tank Farm (BRTF) which is the equivalent of 60,000 cases in each tank! While they produce roughly 1.5 million cases (number from over 1 year ago) they do produce an array of other smaller lots of wines.
Having picked up a bottle of the 2022 J. Lohr Vineyards and Wines Cabernet Franc drove home Steve Peck’s point that while J. Lohr has many good quality mass-produced wines, they also have many artisan and hand crafted wines. This is just one of many. Others include the 2019 POM Cuvee which was a blend of 74% Merlot, 18% Malbec, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Cabernet Franc. The POM comes from the Grand Cru wines of Pomerol in Bordeaux on the Right Bank. Beautiful cherry and blueberries were dominant on the taste buds along with a soft finish.
The second wine is the 2019 J.Lohr St.E! It is now one of my favorites consisting of 66% Cabernet Franc, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Merlot. The inspiration behind the St E label is for St. Emilion on the Right Bank. Black fruit with velvety tannins provided a long-lasting finish and stated to age up to 13 years.
Another was for 2020 J.Lohr PAU with inspiration from the Grand Cru wines of Pauillac district in Bordeaux. Mainly composed of Cabernet Sauvignon with small portions of other Bordeaux varietal wines to provide structure and layering, resulting in texture and complexity.
Two other noteworthy wines are the 2021 J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon that was rated 95 points and comes from their vineyard in Napa Valley. It spent 18 months in 54% new French oak barrels. It is listed to age for 12 years. A donation is made by J. Lohr Winery of $3 for every bottle sold to the National Breast Cancer Foundation program.
The last wine I will mention to give a fuller understanding of their exquisite line up is really about is their 2015 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon that was aged 20 months in 100% new French oak barrels. This is considered Jerry Lohr’s embodiment reflecting his decades providing his best wine to be enjoyed. It has received 98 points and is comprised of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Malbec.
There are many more……
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
Opened this up the evening on the eve of the 6th Annual International Cabernet Franc Wine Competition. It had been sitting in the cellar for over one year. I was pleased, startled and in awe of this wonderful wine. On the eyes, a dark and brooding brick and purple coloring. On the nose, fragrant aromas of dark berries and violets sprung forth like a young teenager heading to the Prom. On the palate layers upon layers of pure enjoyment and inspiration. Flavors of black cherries, blackberries, caressing oak, soft leather and smoky oak nuances. On the finish, strong and pronounced tannins, more reminiscent of Cabernet Sauvignon, but all so welcomed. Finishing with minerality, a touch of Pyrazines (bell pepper) and a long finish.
(Photo ©Michael Kelly)
It is listed at $60/bottle and was aged 16 months in French oak barrels. It comes in at 15.2% alcohol with only 367 cases produced. This Home Ranch Cabernet Franc not only made my annual Best Wines Tasted for 2025, but also is now on my personal best Cabernet Franc wines ever tasted!
History
Fifty years ago Jerry Lohr with little viticulture background ventured to California and found two areas that he thought could produce good wines: Monterey coast and Paso Robles. Monterey County’s Arroyo Seco had the cool windy climate and rocky soils necessary to produce excellent Chardonnay. Ten years later in the 1980’s, he also realized Paso Robles was well suited for producing Bordeaux varietals with rich soils and large diurnal temperature swings between the warm summer days and the cooling breezes from the nearby Pacific Ocean.
Fast forward, the growth of vineyards and planting was steadfastly adhered to with incremental acquisitions of property. Today over 1,400 acres are planted in Arroyo Seco and Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey County with a focus on Chardonnay, Riesling, Valdiguié, and Pinot Noir. Now add the 2,700 acres of vineyards in Paso Robles planted and producing Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux and Rhone varietals. J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines winery also owns 30 acres in Napa Valley producing Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Jerry’s vision has become a reality, producing many solid and award-winning wines with it now still being run as a family business.
One of many distinctions separating J. Lohr winery is their conscientious “farming for the future”. 2023 marks thirteen years since and continuously, J. Lohr became the first vineyard and winery in California to earn the Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing from California Sustainable winegrowing Alliance (CSWA). Detailed information can be found on their website.
Sláinte,
Michael
2012 Lineage Wine and a Christmas Holiday Dinner With Friends
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background
Aristotle in his writings 2,372 years ago in his book on Metaphysics stated, “in the case of all things which have several parts and in which the totality is not, as it were, a mere heap, but the whole is something besides the parts”. Then Euclid with his mathematics approach from his book Elements, Common Notion, stated “The whole is greater than the part(s)”. So, it is the same with the 2012 Lineage Wine. I will explain in detail below.
The Wine Maker
Steven Kent Mirassou, as a 6th generation family winemaker has set high goals. He set as his pinnacle development to produce the best “Bordeaux style” wine California could produce. A lofty and perhaps extreme goal for one man in Livermore Valley. After many years as a successful winemaker at Steven Kent Winery, he decided to make 3 to 5 barrels a year of the absolute premier “Bordeaux style” wine. We just opened his 2012 vintage, which is the sixth of the Lineage releases. The blend which changes year to year based on flavor profiles, consisted of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon (Clones 30 & 7); 14% Cabernet Franc; 10% Merlot; 4% Petit Verdot.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
While blending is an “artistic” endeavor, Steven also is analytical in his pursuit of the perfect Bordeaux blend. Here is Steven’s write-up on why these varietals and clones were chosen. It is like an artist mixing paint colors for the right shading and expression of a painting.
“Cabernet Sauvignon, Clone 30: Dark cherry and cassis flavors, fine-grained tannins and acidity. Less opulent but more age worthy than Clone 4.
Cabernet Franc: Not as “big” as CS but with more finesse and an aromatic palate of sandalwood and chocolate. Acidity is the watchword of this variety. Its acid-based red fruit flavors marry well with the darker more tannic Cabernet Sauvignon to enliven and length Lineage’s finish.
Petit Verdot: Contributes tannin, color, and grapey aromas and flavors of violet and black fruit. This variety helps to build density in the mid-palate of the wine.
Merlot: Noble variety of Bordeaux’s Right Bank; as counterpoint to CS’s austere structure, Merlot is fleshy and opulent; ripe red/dark cherry flavor, a touch of herbal complexity which adds to Lineage’s rich mid-palate.”
The key take way on blending is that it is extremely selective and requires rigorous decision making of not only varietals, but the correct Clones of the varietals to get the flavor profile. Add another step of both winemaking and personal craftsmanship and abracadabra you have a gorgeous and refined Bordeaux blend called Lineage. I am sure Steven wished it was that simple, but this is the shortened version.
Two of many other detailed undertakings are his hand selection of French oak barrels (Taransaud, Le Grand and Francois Freres) and his constant monitoring of the development of the wine in the barrel.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
2012 was marked by nearly perfect weather throughout the growing season, and the temperate year produced perfectly ripe and balanced fruit. Cabernet Sauvignon contribution had a significantly larger role by percentage than it did in the previous releases and shows in Lineage and generous structure. Again, Cabernet Franc beautifully serves its role as the contributor of verve, style, and vitality. Merlot provides a great mid-palate roundness while Petit Verdot adds tannin and exotic fruit. The overall feel of Lineage is one of beauty and elegance with a fairly low alcohol level of 13.9%. The suggested maturity of this wine is recommended from 2018 to 2030. The wine was harvested from the Ghielmetti Estate and Home Ranch Vineyards in Livermore Valley. This library wine today from Lineage goes for $245. The current release is 2018 and available for $195. The 2018 was given 97 points immediately by Wine Enthusiast and the 2017 received 100 points from Steve Heimoff.
The flavor profile and experience of this wine is truly remarkable. First on the eye you see a medium to medium-dark red tint and medium viscosity wine. Very different than some of the bolder Cabernet Sauvignon’s coming out of Napa Valley. Your first impression is perhaps this may be a bit light. But hold on until you get your first whiff which reveals “black fruits, exotic woods and spice aromatics”.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The wine was double filtered and decanted for two hours before tasting.
On the palate, you get all the above characteristics that Steven proposed in his selection of varietals and clones to produce a crescendo of semi-sweet mocha, dark cherry, dark roasted coffee, sweet tobacco, violets, black fruit, etc. You are a bit mesmerized in trying to dissect each essential trait in this wine drinking experience. But it is a wine to simply enjoy and savor the existential engagement and relationship of such a rare and eloquent treat.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photos ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening dinner with a dry rubbed seasoned prime rib, mashed potato casserole with bacon, cheddar cheese and topped with parsley, meatballs, mesquite chicken breasts, roasted Brussel sprouts with reduced balsamic vinegar, a scrumptious holiday honey crisp salad with thinly sliced apples, Romaine lettuce, candied pecans, dried cranberries and blue cheese with a fresh apple cider vinaigrette dressing and for dessert a freshly baked carrot cake topped with crushed candied pecans.
An excellent food and wine pairing shared with friends this evening.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
We also enjoyed a few other very good and fun wines with the meal.
Sláinte,
Michael