2020 Derthona Timorasso, Colli Tortonesi DOC, A Rare Find
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Background on Timorasso
I was introduced to this wine about 1 ½ years back by a friend and SOMM Fran Cunniffe at a small tasting at Prima Vini Wine Shop in Dublin, California. Thoroughly enjoyed the wine and picked up two bottles awaiting the right food & wine pairing opportunity.
This wine comes from the Piedmont region of Italy from the city of Tortona. The village is halfway between Milan and Genoa. While Piedmont is renowned for its gorgeous red wines (Barbera, Dolcetto, etc.) it is also the home of Timorasso. This grape has been around since the Middle Ages but with the advent of phylloxera and the Second World War it was quickly disappearing. Additionally, this grape varietal almost went extinct due to the finicky nature of the vines: double/triple buds at break, low yields and more desirable wines from the area. Many farmers wanted to replant with more well-known grape vines. Its survivability is credited to one man, Walter Massa a local farmer from Monleale a village in Piedmont who believed in the grape. In 1980’s it was almost extinct. By the 1990’s Walter and other local producers had continued to plant grapevines. Today over 20 wineries are producing Timorasso. It is key to the Colli Toronesi DOC. To be produced as a varietal from Colli Tortonesi region, it must constitute at least 85% of the Timorasso grape and the balance can be Moscato Bianco and Favorita (Vermentino).
The Wine “Wine is bottled poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This wine has a unique texture and layers upon layers of panache! On the eyes, a straw light-colored golden hue. On the nose, both floral and fruity notes waft into the senses. Classical Timorasso may have notes of acacia, Hawthorne, peach, honey and tropical fruits. This one from the Oddero family provided wide-reaching floral scents coupled with minerality. On the palate yellow apple was dominant. The uniqueness of this grape is the mouth filling and heavy body white wine. Soft tropical fruit was secondary but present. A generous finish of refreshing delight with well-balanced acidity and texture. This wine scored 91 points and sells for about $36/bottle. When aged, it is sometimes referred to as a “white Barolo” or “white wine for red wine drinkers”.
The Food and Wine Pairing “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
While having a heavy mouth feel white wine it is still mild and meant to go with light and medium bodied fish. While in Modesto yesterday picked up a fresh piece of Tuna at Ohana Seafood. Rubbed with olive oil, Himalayan Sea salt, black pepper and seared quickly on the BBQ. Served with a homemade medley of cut up pineapple, mango and Mandarin oranges with red pepper flakes and sliced green onions. Accompanied by brown rice.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The tuna was prepared perfectly being seared on the outside and rare on the inside!
This Timorasso was a perfect match in complementing and not overwhelming the fish. A very good food and wine pairing.
Sláinte,
Michael
January 25, 2025 at 5:30 pm
Very well written review Michael. I’m intrigued by Timorasso wine (although a white Barolo sounds a bit heavy, but probably not with the right food) and that Walter Massa resurrected this Italian varietal from Piedmont!