2019 Spangler Vineyards Carménère and Jalapeño Chili -Two Winners on a Cool Evening
Photo ©Michael Kelly
History of Carménère
The history of the Carménère varietal is as fascinating as it is happenstance! It was once one of the grapes in the Médoc region of Bordeaux, one of the original historical seven grapes of Bordeaux. It originally served a similar purpose as Petit Verdot, producing a deep red ink on wines. Carménère originates from the French word for crimson (carmin) which refers to the crimson color of the autumn foliage.
Photo from Pat Spangler of Carménère Vineyard
When the Phylloxera plague hit in 1867 destroying most of the vineyards in Europe, many thought the Carménère grape was extinct. It wasn’t until 150 years later that it was discovered that Chile had preserved the Carménère grape thinking it was Merlot (from clippings planted from France). DNA confirmed that it was the missing 6th varietal of Bordeaux.
Carménère Today
Carménère grows mainly in Chile, specifically the Colchagua Valley, Rapel Valley and in the Maipo Province. It is also grown in the Veneto region of Italy, and recently several wineries in Mendocino, Livermore, Lodi, Napa and Calaveras are producing it, albeit in small quantities. The 2023 USDA Statistical Service showed only 78 acres planted of the 284,341 in the state of California or .00027%. Oregon and Washington also have some root stock growing in Carménère, but their summary of red wine grapes planted does not even breakout Carménère!
Uniqueness of Carménère
As a varietal, it has the deep ruby coloring and aromas of red fruits. Tannins are softer and milder than Cabernet Sauvignon, thus its use in blending to soften a strong Cabernet. The use is like the use of Merlot in formulating an enjoyable blend. Chile produces a 100% Carménère which has a cherry and fruity flavor but has traces of smoke and earthy notes with the inky coloration
The Winery
Photo from Spangler Vineyards website
Spangler Vineyards is located at 491 Winery Lane, in Roseburg, Oregon. Roseburg is halfway between Eugene and Grants Pass and is considered southern Oregon next to Hwy 5. Pat Spangler moved from Chicago, initially looking for a winery in Sonoma County, but found an established winery for sale in Oregon in 2004. Once on the property the warm weather and various micro-climates were perfect for him to pursue his passion for Bordeaux varietal wines, especially Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
His wines are focused on big, bold red wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. He also features some Rhone favorites such as Syrah, Petite Sirah and Viognier. Additionally various sparkling wines, an unoaked Chardonnay and others fill out his offering. The total production is around 2,500 cases with almost all going to the wine club members.
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Spangler Vineyards 2019 Carménère is from the southern Oregon vineyard called Griffin Creek. Just a bit more “earthy” than the 2020 review done November 2nd. The color was again a beckoning dark and enticing coloration. On the nose, this wine was amazing and possessed bountiful and alluring aromas of cherry and blueberry. On the palate, this was a strong and bold Carménère more reminiscent of a Chilean Carménère. On the palate, this was gritty and bold demanding your attention to its pedigree. The polarization on the palate was one of fruit and grittiness. Key was a “spicy clove” quality that was tantalizing and delicious. Red plum and green peppercorns frolicked and enticed the taste buds. At the conclusion a chewy and hearty wine, with leather and the concentrated fruits of plum and cherries provided a long finish. The tannins were structured with an edginess and spicy. The wine sells for $39/bottle and comes in at 13.5% alcohol. Only 139 cases were produced. Barrel treatment was 18 months in 1/3 new, 1/3 one year old and 1/3 two-year-old. The barrels were 50% American and 50% French. This wine has won 95 points at BTI/Tastings.com & Double Gold from SF Chronicle Competition, Double Gold at the Cascadia International Wine Competition 2023 and 93 points at Las Vegas Global Wine Awards.
This wine will make my annual Best Wines tasted during the year. Pat now makes three wines holding this distinction.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This cold (for California) evening in the high 40’s, a warm “comfort food” was in order. A new recipe was tried called Ground Beef, Black Bean and Jalapeno Chili. The recipe called for browning the meat and then draining in a colander. Then cook first in a pot the diced onions, carrots and celery. Then add tomatoes, beans the browned beef, jalapeno, chili powder, garlic powder cumin bay leaves and salt/pepper. Then let it simmer for three hours on the stove stirring frequently. This recipe was a sure winner and was the perfect food for this cool evening! Accompanied by corn bread and a fresh garden a salad.
Thinking that the gritty and strong taste and tannins of the Carménère would be perfect with cutting both the meat and tomatoes, which it was but it was not able to compete with the jalapeños, cumin and chili powder! While the wine was extremely excellent and the food scrumptious, we enjoyed the wine after the meal to fully appreciate all the nuances.
Sláinte,
Michael