2022 Cuda Ridge Wines Carménère With BBQ’ed Tri Tip Steak
Photo ©Michael Kelly
History of Carménère
The history of the Carménère varietal is as fascinating as it is happenstance! It was once one of the grapes in the Médoc region of Bordeaux, one of the original historical seven grapes of Bordeaux. It originally served a similar purpose as Petit Verdot, producing a deep red ink on wines. Carménère originates from the French word for crimson (carmin) which refers to the crimson color of the autumn foliage.
Photo from Wikipedia
When the Phylloxera plague hit in 1867 destroying most of the vineyards in Europe, many thought the Carménère grape was extinct. It wasn’t until 150 years later that it was discovered that Chile had preserved the Carménère grape thinking it was Merlot (from clippings planted from France). DNA confirmed that it was the missing 6th varietal of Bordeaux.
Carménère Today
Carménère grows mainly in Chile, specifically the Colchagua Valley, Rapel Valley and in the Maipo Province. It is also grown in the Veneto region of Italy, and recently several wineries in Mendocino, Livermore, Lodi, Napa and Calaveras are producing it, albeit in small quantities. The 2023 USDA Statistical Service showed only 78 acres planted of the 284,341 in the state of California or .00027%. Oregon and Washington also have some root stock growing in Carménère, but their summary of red wine grapes planted does not even breakout Carménère!
Uniqueness of Carménère
As a varietal, it has the deep ruby coloring and aromas of red fruits. Tannins are softer and milder than Cabernet Sauvignon, thus its use in blending to soften a strong Cabernet. The use is similar to Merlot in formulating an enjoyable blend. Chile produces a 100% Carménère which has a cherry and fruity flavor with traces of smoke and earthy notes combined with inky coloration.
The Winery
Photo ©Michael Kelly
This is one of my favorite pictures of Larry at a recent tasting this year. Lots of captions can be used to describe this picture. For this story, I will forego the story about the big fish that got away and state Larry was describing the spectrum and enormity of flavors in his Carménère!
Photo ©Michael Kelly
There is a lot to be said about Cuda Ridge Wines in Livermore, California with Larry Dino as the winemaker and his wife Margie as chief wine taster. They produce Bordeaux style wines. The Cuda Ridge Wines tasting room is located at 2400 Arroyo Road in Livermore, California. The picture above and below are just a portion of the tasting room and they have a large outdoor seating area. Cuda Ridge Wines current production is approximately 2100 cases. They produce the following Bordeaux varietals: Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and most recently their addition of Carménère. Always experimenting, Larry Dino also has produced non-Bordeaux style wines which are designated under their Black label, these wines include Sangiovese, New-World style Cabernet Sauvignon and others. Each varietal produced are small lots ranging from 100 – 450 cases. Cuda Ridge does extensive blending of the varietals and strives for lower alcohol wines with intense complexity and character, traditional of the Bordeaux style wines.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The Wine – “Wine is bottled Poetry” – Robert Louis Stevenson
Photo ©Michael Kelly
The 2022 Cuda Ridge Insel Vineyard Carménère wine lived up to and exceeded all the key characteristics of Carménère. The Insel Vineyard is located in Pleasanton still within the Livermore AVA. Only 49 cases were produced and since being released in September 2024, the wine has not been submitted for ratings or competitions. Previous vintages have received high scores from Wine Enthusiast. Barrel treatment was 50% new French oak and 50% once used French oak and aged for 19 months. The wine sells for $50/bottle.
Photo ©Michael Kelly
On the eyes, a medium-heavy viscosity wine with a unique inviting deep color combination of maroon and ruby red. On the nose, fresh Bing cherries greeted the senses with a hint of green pepper. The palate is where the wine exceeded prior expectations. Bright cherry taste was intense and concentrated. Plums and dark fruits then came forth with a hint of soft and wet earthen tones (minerality and forest floor) with black tea in the background. On the finish tannins were noted as being “rounded and soft” yet with enough to be mildly grippy. The finish was long lasting with mocha and pepper finishing off the enjoyment with a tinge of vanilla. The wine immediately made my annual “Best Wines” tasted in 2024 which is published in December.
The Food and Wine Pairing – “Food without wine is a corpse; wine without food is a ghost. United and well matched, they are as body and soul: living partners” – Andre Simon
Photo ©Michael Kelly
Paired this evening with a 24-hour marinated prime tri tip steak in Chaka sauce. Seared at 1500 degrees and served medium rare. Accompanied by an oil rubbed Russet baked potato with sea salt and sauteed asparagus and button mushrooms. The wine possessed enough tannins to work with the meat and the refreshing fruit of the Carmenere provided a smoothness to the seared steak. A wonderful food and wine pairing.
Sláinte,
Michael