Understanding Wine and Winemaking at a Deeper Level
Complexity and structure:
Photo ©Michael Kelly
As stated by Master of Wine, Nova Cadamatre, “complexity in wine means that the wine is multi-faceted”. Wine may have different aromas and flavors of depth on the palate, especially with aeration and temperature change over time. A complex wine will be one profile on the first sip and later taste very differently. Complex wine is not a one note wonder or monolithic flavor start to finish. The broad range of flavors are intense and possess nuances not associated with “off the shelf” wines.
Key wines are often associated with being complex: Burgundy, Bordeaux blends, Champagne and Cabernet Sauvignon’s. A key characteristic of complex wine is its ability to morph with aging, yet holding tannins, fruit and acidity in a stalemate state with each other so one does not overpower the others. Again this requires key parameters of the storage environment: dark and no direct sunlight, constant temperature (ideally 55 degrees), humidity levels between 50-70% and no movement to ensure correct wine development.
Barrel and bottling aging driving flavor traits:
Picture courtesy of TN Coopers USA
Barrels are a winemaker’s “secret weapon” instilling complexity with flavor profiles. The barrels start off with various “toasting levels” light, medium or even heavily toasted. For instance the material can impart a different taste profile and complexity for example be it oak or acacia wood. Varying oaks from different countries influence the complexity of the wine be it French, Hungarian, Slavonia, American and even Russian. For more see an article on barrel making and the effects of choices:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2020/12/16/the-barrel-a-winemakers-secret-ingredient/
Blending to build unique traits:
Picture of Rudy Zuidema blending wines at Shadybrook Estate Winery
Blending can be a range of items. It can be as simple as blending a vintage from a southward facing vineyard with a north facing vineyard in varying percentage to reach an optimum complexity. It can also mean blending different clones of the same varietal. More often it means adding small percentages of different varietals to show the various levels of complexity of a wine. Take for example Steven Kent Mirassou’s Lineage and how each added component brings out uniqueness to the wine. An excerpt from an article written in 2021 and the full story link:
https://californiawinesandwineries.com/2021/12/27/2009-lineage-collection-bordeaux-style-wine/
“Cabernet Sauvignon, Clone 30: Dark cherry and cassis flavors, fine-grained tannins and acidity. Less opulent but more age worthy than Clone 4. (For the 2009, only Clone 4 was chosen).
Cabernet Sauvignon, Clone 191: Cassis, coffee, and mocha flavors, angular, tannic structure and lengthy, persistent finish.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Clone 4: Powerhouse rich, viscous flavors of dark fruit and chocolate with broad tannins.
Cabernet Franc: Not as “big” as CS but with more finesse and an aromatic palate of sandalwood and chocolate. Acidity is the watchword of this variety. Its acid-based red fruit flavors marry well with the darker more tannic Cabernet Sauvignon to enliven and length Lineage’s finish.
Petit Verdot: Contributes tannin, color, and grapey aromas and flavors of violet and black fruit. This variety helps to build density in the mid-palate of the wine.
Malbec: Adds fruit and tannin; quite different from Cabernet in its sauvage mix of dried berry and raspberry fruit notes. It signature aromatic note is obvious when the wine is young. As Lineage ages, the Malbec takes on a dried-fruit edge and nice acidity.
Merlot: Noble variety of Bordeaux’s Right Bank; as counterpoint to CS’s austere structure, Merlot is fleshy and opulent; ripe red/dark cherry flavor, a touch of herbal complexity which adds to Lineage’s rich mid-palate.”
Judging the quality of the wine: Terroir or Manipulation
Picture from Acquiesce Winery website
Everyone’s tastes are different, thus subjective. That said there is some objectivity to determine the quality of the wine besides the statement “I simply like it”. While that may be the reason to buy a particular wine, it falls short of the key criteria of quality wine. The first consideration is the wine made to the varietal standards? While a wine may taste good, for example Belle Glos Pinot Noir, is it to the classical criteria of a Pinot Noir? Many would argue that the wine is manipulated with Mega Purple or other varietals to achieve its coloration and flavor profile. So it may taste fine, but is it a quality wine? Ditto for reflecting the “terroir”. Several wineries hold back wines from a vintage to blend with the following year to provide a similar taste wine year to year. As a consumer this may be a great thing knowing that if you buy a particular brand it always is good year to year. As a wine aficionado, wine should reflect the terroir of the year (weather, soil, wind, temperature, diurnal range, etc.) being “place and time”. Each year the wine is unique and different as is the terroir. For a scholarly summary on terroir read:
https://oeno-one.eu/article/view/5448
Everyone is uniquely different as are the wines. One’s subjective experiential knowledge of wine ranges greatly based on availability and affordability. The broader the approach to wine allows for diversity and finding hidden treasures. Similarly a Crayola box of 8 color crayons cannot draw the same as a Crayola box of 152 colors. Seeing the complete wine spectrum provides a more comprehensive approach and appreciation of wine.
Sláinte,
Michael